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Cfflparation 


WnSTn,N.Y.  14SM 
(716)  171.4509 


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Microfiche 

Series 

(Monographs) 


^ 


s. 


V 


ICI\flH 

Collection  de 
microfiches  >, 
(monographies) 


Canadian  Institute  for  Historical  Microreproductions/ Institut  Canadian  da  microraproductions  historiquas 


'l.,., 


flchnical  and  Bibliotfraphie  NotM  /  NotM  tMhniquM  et  bibliographiquM 


The  Imtitute  has  attamptad  to  obtain  tha  bast  original 
copy  availabia  for  f iimina.  Faaturas  of  this  copy  which 
may  ba  bibliographically  uniqtM,  which  maty  altar  any 
of  tha  imagas  in  tha  raproduction/or  which  may 
significantly  changa  tha  usual  mathod  of  f Hming,  ara 
chacHed  balow. 


□  Colourad  eptars/ 
Couvartura  da  coulaur 


□ 


Covars  damagad/ 
Cduvartura  andomm 


□  C<»vars  rastorad  and/or  laminatad/ 
Couvarhira  rastauria  at/ou  palliculia 


n 

D 
D 
•D 

n 


Covar  titia  missing/ 

La  titra  da  ^ouvartura  manqua 

Colourad  mfips/  

Cartas  giographiquas  an  coulaur 

Colourad  ink  (i.i.  othar  than  Mua  or  Mack)/ 
Encra  da  coulaur  (i.a.  autra  qua  Maua  ou  noira) 

Colourad  platas  and/or  illustrations/ 
Planches  at/ou  illustrations  en  eouleur 

» 

Boum^  with  other  material/ 
Reli*  avac  d'autres  documents 


□  Tight  binding  may  causa  shadows  or  distortion 
along  interior  margin/ 

La  reliure  serrie  peuf  caus^  da  I'ombra  ou  de  la 
distonion  la  loitg  de  la  marge  intfciaure 

•*■■.-  .         < 

□  Blank  leaves  added  during  restoration  nfay  appear 
within  the  text.  Whenever  possible,  these  have 
been  omitted  from  filming/ 
II  se  peut  que  cert^ines  pages  blanches  ajouties 
tors  d'una  restauratibn  apparaissent  dans  le  texte, 
meis.  lorsque  cela  fttait  possible,  ces  pages  n'ont 
pas  M  f  ilmtes. 


0 


Addittonal  commentt:/  Various  paglngs 

Commenttires  supplimerttaires: 


This  item  is  filmed  et  the  reduction  ratio  checked  betow/ 
Ce  document  est  film*  au  taux  de  reduction  indiqui  ci-desso 

10X  14X  nx 


L'Institut  a  mlctof  ilmi  la  meilleur  exe|fiplaire  qu'il 
lui  a  M  possible' de  se  procurer.  Les  dltails  de  cet 
.4X9mplaire  qui  sont  peut-«tre  uniques  Au  point  de  vue 
bibliographique,  qui  peuvent  modifier  line  image 
reprq^ite.  tiu  qui  peuvent  exiger  une  modification 


dans  la  m<!thode  normale  de  f  ilmaga  i 
ci-dinsous. 


Coloured  pages/ 
Pages  dc  eouleur 


indiquis 


□  Pages  damaged/ 
Pages  endommagtes 

□  Pajias  restored  and/or  laminated/ 
Pages  restaurtes  it/ou  pellici|Mes 

0 'Pages  discoloured,  stained  of  foxea  I 
Pages  dteolories,  tacha^es  ou  piqi  aes 


□  Pages  detached/ 
Pages  dttachies 

0Showthrough/ 
Transparence 


D 


Quality  of  print  varies/ 
Quality  in^le  de  I'impressioii 


I        I  Continuoufopagination/ 


n 


Pagination  continue 

Includes  index(es)/ 
Comprend  un  (des)  indtfx 

Title  on  header  taken  from:/ 
Le  titre  de  I'en-tite  provient: 

Title  page  of  issue/ 

Page  de  titre  de  la  livraison 


n 

□  Caption  of  issue/ 
Titre  de  depart  de  la  livraison 


Masthead/ 

Ginirk|ue  (piriodiques)  de  la  livraison 


12X 


IfX 

1-    'i:\ 


il  ' 

t 

I  VIM 
HI 


Th«  copy  lNlm«d  h«r«  hn  b—n  r«produe«d  thanks 
,15  th«  o«n»'OtltY  of:  ^ 

^  SocletS  du  Nus«e    . 
du  SMrinafre  de  Oueboc 

■,■'•■ 
Th«  imagM  appMriog  h«r«  ar*  thCvbMt  4u«litv     . 

poMibIa  cbntidaring  ttia  condition  and  lagiWIity 
of  tha  original  copy  and  in  kaapim  with  tha 
filnilng  contract  apacificationa. 


Original  copias  in  printad  papar  eoyara  ara  fllmad 
baginning  with  tha' front  eovar  and  tfhding  on 
tha  last  paga  With  a  printad  or  illuatratad  impraa- 
sion.  or  tha  back  eovar  whan  appropriato;  All 
othar  original  copiaa  ara  fllmad  baginning  on  tha 
first  paga  wKh  a  printad  or  iliustritad  impras- 
sion.  and  andiitg  on  tha  last  paga  with  a  printad  . 
or  illuatratad  imprassion.  ^ 


L'axamplaira  fil 
ginArosit*  da: 


1^  f  ut  raproduit  grlca  A  la 


?     Soclete  du  Nusee 
du  $«rina1r«  de 


,^ 


f 


.« 


Tha  laat  ra^rdad  f ramo  on  akch  microficha 
shall  contain  tha  symbol  -hj*"  <  moaning  "CON- 
TINUED'').  or  tha  symbol  ▼  (moaning  ''END"), 
whichavar  appliM. 

Mapi.  platas.  tharts.  ate.  may  bo  fllmad  at 
diffarant  raduction  ratios.  Thoso  too  larga  to  ba 
antiraly  includad  in  ona  axposura  ara  filmad 
baginning  In  tha  uppar  laft  hand  £omar.  laft  to 
right  and  top  to  bottom,  avmany  framas  as 
raquirad.  Tha  following  diagrams  illustrata  tha 
mathod: 


Las  imagas  suivantas  ont  Ati  raproduitas  av^c  Is 
plus  grsnd  soin,  compta  tanu  da  la  condition  at 
da  la  nattat*  da  l'axamplaira  film*,  at  an . 
conformity  avac  las  conditions  du  contrat  da 
filmaga.  .      \ 

^  '  ■'  ■  .  * 

Laa  axamplairas  originaux  dont  la  couvartura  an 
papi^K  aat  Im'primAa  sont  film'is  an  commancant 
par  la  pramiar  plat  at  %n  tarminant  soit  par  la 
darnlAra  paga  qui  comporta  una  amprainta 
d'imprassidn  ou  d^liustration.  soit  par  la  sacond 
plat,  splon  la  cas.  Toua  las  autras  axamplairas 
fltriginaux  sont  f ilm*s  w  comman9ant  paf  la 
pramiAra  paga  qui  contporto  una  amprainta 
d'impraasion  ou  d'HIustratiori  at  an  tarminant  par 
la  damiira  paga  qui  comporta  una  talla^ 
amprainta. 

*  *  .■•■■■  •■■■■■.  •*■;'■ 

Uii  das  symbolas  suivants  apparaitra  sur  la 
darniAra  imaga  da  chaqua  microficha.  talon  la 
'cas:  la  symbols  '^  signifia  "A  SUIVAE".  la      ^ 
symbols  V  sIgnHia  "FIN':. 

Laa  cartas,  planchaa,  tablaaux.  ate,  pauvant  AtrS 
filmte  k  das  taux  da  reduction  diffArants. 
Lorsqua  la  documant  ast  trop  grand  pour  Atra 
raproduit  an  unsaul  clichA,  il  ast  filmi  k  partir 
'daTmgla.^piriaur  gaucha,  da- gauche  k  droits, 
at  da  haut  mn  bas.  an  pranant  la  nombra     . 
d'iniagas  nAcassaira.  Las  diagrammas  suivants 
illustrant  la  mAthoda.  / 


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SECOND    VOY 


IN  SEARCH 


A 


or 


A  NORTH-WEST  FASB^'^^^   ^ 


AND  OF 


A  RESIDENCE  IN  THE  ARCTIC  REGIONS, 


m* 


■■■f-^. 


''■'*  ^  "Wk 


DURING  THE  YEARS  1829, 1830, 1831, 1833, 1833; 


BY  SIR  JO0i  ROSS,  C.B.,  K.S.A.,  K.C.S.,  ^c.  ^c. 

CAmm  IN  THK  BOTAI,  NATT,  JL 

INCUIDINO 
IDER  (NOW  CAPTAIN)  J.  C.  RO^  m.  »jl»,  t La,  Ac. 


^\ 


'a^ 


THE  DISCOVERY  OP  THE  NORTHERN  MAGNETIC  P<^LE.  ' 


mi 


•V 


PHILADELPHIA: 


E.  L.  CAREr  &  A.  HAfttaiioA^^'^ 
y^^       BALTIMORE 


#''iL 


'  ~.>t^ 


•'"oi 


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:arey.  hart 


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■"&,  rue  d» 


4pu6bec 


4,auE. 


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'*SIH.,   >.Ti(a 


TO  .  _     '^ 

ms  MOST  EXCELLENT  MAJESTY 

WILLIAM  IV. 

KINO  OP  GREAT  BRITAIN,  IRELAND.Ac. 

THIS  NARRATIVE 

OP  TBI      :  ^ 

DISCOVERIES  MADE  IN  THE  ARCTIC  REGIONS. 

IN  THE  YEARS  - 

18»,  1830,  1831,  1833,  ihd  1833, 
IS  DEDICATED  WITH  HIS  MAJESTY'S  GRACIOUS  PERMISSION. 
BY  HIS  MAJESTY'S  LOYAL  AND  DEVOTED  SUBJECT, 

JOHNROSS, 

^  CAPTAIN  IN  THE  ROYAL  NAVY. 


Z' 


A 


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-rVV- 


t»«fell»,*' 


^ 


?'''', 


sf-f^fTliB  -*  ■ 


"  .   < 


■  V.K- 


/ 


INTRODf  CTIok. 


.*'  # 


ject,  to  the  fina^tMa^l^^emeM^^  "'"*?*9  theo'WJnalpro- 


the  diii^e";;' Sf  a  nOTK«?'pSS£'e  IM^ST'^/'^k'^S"  undertaken  for 
attempted  for  "ome  yew^to  cS2fe^o:,th.  ?Ik'**'  '"?*  wWchjgill  probably  be 
tory  of  the  endeavourl^do  t^S^.?rjf  -  V°  '**'"'  'J^iS^^^'-^  '•«»^.  «»e  hia- 

northorn-horea  ofXS'rai^^^^^S^^ 

elied.  ^  ' 


northern  ahores  of  AmerioA,  hs 

01  him  m  particular  on  whom  ll         _ 

■  But  ep  touch  has  been  publMhed^on"i'h!«''«tS!)i«<.f  — j  k 

long  before  my  first  vovaire  and  -till  ^x^ij-^^^Al  *^  °y  "<>  "»ny  writers, 

iouriMilB  and  reviiiJJ^oftC  work  of  bJ^^  vpyajpe..  thew^ic 

lation,  to  render  rocha  8kS?nMrfl.,oSr*L^  v''''^^]**?  'ojW  been  in  dreu- 
thanan abridged MmpytioJrVoffinS^'^,1* ^2?^ ^i""* '^^  ■"i*'^  ""ro 

Birte^riUs^^^^  Harri,.bhur1»I,. 

.Yet  not^^lfi5iTfeav«Ste  tte^^ 
■uchi«iBiiWino.™«„iJ.«L*ir-_iS\,J°  *^^  on  tUa  auhject,  those  to  whom 

-^?  n^?i2L2T"^?'''' '  here»iveacondeS 
I  purpose,  from  the  writera  abore  naided.  U 
who  are.deairqia  of  extending  theSWoi^ 


>s. 


^-'',^^'^&^^3^iM:^:'Ms^r 


fhaey: 
reade'ra. 

J^^^tA  T^^  fu*"*"'y  ^''et  tWe  problem  t 
M.  and  the  first  northern  expmlition  by  sea  o 

SSSva^'ISo.W*'""  DrZheimToTe  V 
1496^JohnCabot..aUed.andma/eanScces,     .   ,_. _«._^ 

^WM  called  AniM,S  th^.  ^7  ******'*''  ^'*  *""  «""»  "^ch 

^^oii^r^^  ^^S^o'&SSfer?^'  voyagea  fcrke  p„rpo«^of 


t  will  be  aumcient  to  aatiaiy  moat 

jms  to  have  been  first  propoa- 
which  we  know,  was  that  of 
•"V  Sea-  Icelatad  waa  alao 
tntly,  Greenland,  by  meana  of 

rul  voyage  in  the  sam«  quarteri 


:■^•^. 


V^, 


\'^ 


\ 


■  r 


v'^ii^^f*^'^^'" 


pj 


■■/*■; 


'  ">-'' 


RODirCTlON. 


b\t 


V  ■ 


!  :~ 


^  -■: 


i»w»X5«J!«iiS^SS>XSSiSr^"™''  '^^'^  bulk, 

TS^I-r^'S^'icll^^^^^  which 

doeanot appear  that  he  made  a'Srafe^aScf  l^JAra^^^^^^^  J 

iK«.*'S*>*'^^°S.^«''  fetU'S  nKthere^nv  ±T„^*''  *  north-?'"!  pasB^J^ 
the  Pacific:  but  he  retnrn«H  «^!f k^„*  i."  '^^'""^^b*  passage,  by  thti'wai^  oT 

,_««iledtoj/Bwfo\indl2S:'  ^^^n^'^'S  »»  <»»«>ver  the  north-west  passage, 

..        W?^'0?tfe'ttS«7iTCs*lfr^^«^ 

■trait  he  diacovered^  2m3  ^^J'^^'iViS^^-  ™P'-«Jeerly  termed  a 
PesofaUon,  and,  on  tfc^^SSn  Sore  mS  n  *>,«. apPefiatiye  of  Cape 
ham.  Ex2«r  So^nd.andsomnht%Lfti  gale^fi,  Caj«  W^a.™£ 

T-J*"^  the  latitude  of  66J»liorS!      ^*  "*""*  ^*''«*"  OimberJand  isCd 
'       jC^^^^"^'«°K'^th^^^^^  navigator  made 

Wem  whieh  he  h^  in  view.  TCdS^v-^J'^h  **•* •"^"^SP. °f  *»»«  P™- 
in  the  coufse  of  his  three  vov^^J^J^^le'^'  howeve^;,  which  he  made 
•infce,  to  bini  mm-e  K  mv  »^£Zi^°'^*Tf  *'*  commerciU  imyortance' 

Jo  t«)«iit  he  has  not  had  many  rivalr  and  it^^^!^*'*'yiP¥J"»d  pver. 
to  higratitude,  which  feili  KLk  him  fiST^fif^iP^h*^^ 
British  commerce.      ^  "vuianic  bim  for  the  debts  owed  him  by 

S  2Jn^™eSS°tbat  ifTrrA'?*'^  canynuued.  and  so  mterlv 

ij J«ifor .the  sake  TtRwho  £ir"K  heard  o*f'hi'.'*'°"°'°«if«' '»  "^ 
the  ci«ieism  which  it  has  justly "weh^     H«  1>.vi  «'"♦  '"'y?«*'  ^"*  °o*  «>f 


m^ 


own  accoSnt  hrfoltowy^t^coLVint*^!  P^^^^^^^  '^'"'IS*^  Anian.   By  his 
which  he  sailed  in  wious  di?e^?SS..T!L*'^^^^  ««  openinfc  up 

entered  into  the  NoSh  SwfXrfindift  *M^  days  afterwhia  he 
leagu^iwithinthe  strait  a.  t'oSfSTu^pi.^^^^^^^^ 


rfrT 


-■■■■  f  [T 


^  ^.. 


vy^''/ 


.mi-'' 


if  but  was 

a>  but  aaw 

Eive  sailed 
is  voyage, 
have  dis- 
JiinLap- 


MTBODUcnOR. 


tune  of  beiW  i^im^^^^^'^''  ^J*""* name  haStod the sood  fo- 
Kave  rise  to^SSJiSiS^ji?  no^common  manner.  Zt^r^fS^I?^ 
-■    which 


mate  and  nilo*     tk-s*  "/..'■ 


1  wnue  the  con«equeiHs«  of  ih.  7«;2?"^"  •ufficientlv  true  in  the  UuitaA 


_  ^    — — -a: 


-^^2aii2t_.rf.- ,.;^.  ^  .^'^ ;  ■ '  ■  ■  ■ 


:^.,..  *-'-*U^^^"^ 


V 


m 


m 


tia 


omiaoootioif  •  * 


knowii  ialand  to  wht^  he  gave  his  name.  Since  my  o^  VoyiBin,  in  1818, 
there  have  heen  douhta  respecting  this  "James's  island;"  and  the  subject 
is  BO  remarkable,  not  less  than  complicated,  that  I  most  refer  it  to  the  end 
of  this  introduction,  where  I  have  attempted  to  elucidate  this  somewhat 
^troublesome  piece  of  geography,  aiid)  as  I  trust,  with  some  success. 

1633  Seven  Russian  sailors,  who  appear  to  have  been  shipwrecked  at  Spitz-  ' 
•  bergen,  remained  there  one  year.  i      - 

1636  The  Russians  discovered  the  Lena  and  other  rivers  in  the  north  of 
Europe  and  Asia,  the  account  of  which  will  be  foui|d  in  Churchi^rB  collec- 
tion oT  voyages.  .        «  ,  - 

1640  Bernarda,a  Spaniard,  affirms  that  by  a  coasting  voyage  hesaiirafrom 
the  Pacific  through  a  strait,  and  reached  an  isthmtls  which  divides  the 
west  from  the  east  sea  at  Baffin's  bay,  where  he  could  see  the  sea  on  each 
side  from  the  high  land,  unfeh  he  ascended. 

1646  Forty-two  persons  werewrecked  at  Spitzbergen,  and  remained  there  a 
year.  • 

1719-1722  There  are  voyages  recorded  to  have  been  performed  between  .these 
years,  by  Knight,  Barlow,  Vaughan,  and  Schoggs;  but  very  little  is  known 
of  these  navigators,  except  that  they  sailed  to  discover  a  north- west  pass- 
age. As  no  account  of  them  was  ever  received,  it  mu%t  be  presumed  that 
they  were  lost.  ,  „ 

1719  John  Munk  sailed  on  a  voyage  of  discovery  to  the  north,  but  bis  men  all 
died  excepting  two,  and  he  was  unsuccessful,  as  far  as  any  record  of  him 
has  arrived  to  our  days. 

1722  Behring's  strait  was  discovered  by  the  navi«^tor  of  that  name:  he  was 
afterwards  wrecked  on  Behring's  island,  which  he  had  discovered,  and 
there  he  died.  *     - 

1741  Christopher  Middleton  sailed  to  Hudson's  bay  in  the  Furnace,  fo>  the  dia- 
covery  of  a  north-west  passage;  his  failure  led  to  a  controversy  between 
him  uid  Ddhbs,  and  also  wiu  the  Admiralty,  on  which  I  need  not  here 

1743  Six  Russian  sailors  were  left  at  Spitzbergen,  and  remained*  there  six 

1740-11^  TlieRussian  government  employed  several  officers,  and  tnteed,  by 
laiid,  nearly  the  whole  coast  of  Europe  and  Asia,  between  Nova  Zembla 
and  BehruYg's  strait.  ^    ..        ,  „,  ... 

1746  William  Moor  and  Francis  Smith  made  an  unsuccessful  attempt  in  this 
wearisome  pursuit  by  the  way  of  Repulse  baV;  this  being  one  of  the 
speculations,  the  execution  of  which  has  since  been  repeated  in  our  own 
times,  and,  as  all  know,  without  success.  •■■ 

1769-1772  Hearne  discovered  Heame  river,  by  means  of  a  journey  by  landj 
which  has  been  so  often  quoted  as  to  be  familiar  to  every  one. 

1773  Phipps  (afterwards  Lord  Mulgrave)  made  an  unsuccessful  attempt  to 
reach  th^  Pole;  this  voyage  is  equally  familiar^  and  is  often  quoted,  the 
moroiie,- tuerhaps,  on  account  of  its  style,  and  ol  the  honours  conferred  on 
his  name.  . 

1776  The  justly  celebrated  Captain  Cook  (accompanied  by  Captain  James 
Clerke,}  who  had  already  performed  two  voyages  round  the  world,  at- 
^temptea  to  discover  the  north-west  passage,  by  Behring's  strait,  which  he 
entered  m  August,  1779,  and  penetrated  to  a  point  Wlichhe  named  Icy 
Cape,  in  Uttitude  70*»  29'  N,  and  in  longitude  198»  2ft'  W,  where  he  found 
-  the  ice  impenetrable,  being  a  solid  mass  ten  feet  thkk  and  extending  across 
to  the  coast  of  Asia,  aground  in  twenty-seven  fathoms.  He  returned  to 
the  Sandwich  islands,  saa^  there,  as  is  wDil  known,  he  lost  his  Ufe  in  a  con- 
test with  the  natives.  •    . 

1780  Captains  Clerke  and  King  made  another  unsuccessful  attempt  m  the  same 
. .  quarter;  but  the  furthest  pomt  to  which  they  proceeded  was  lat.  7V.  33'  N, 
m  1940  west  longitude.  ,.     .   .  «        .  «    , 

1776  Lieutenant  Pickersgill  was  sent  out  in  the  Lion  brig  to  meet  Captam  Cook, 
by  Baffin's  bay:  he  reached  the  latitude  of  68"  10',  and  bore  up  for  Labrar 
dor,  returning  unsuccessful. 

1777  Lieutenant  Young,  in  the  same  ship,  was  sent  for  the  same  purpose:  he 
reached  729  45'  (Woman's  islands),  and  returned  without  making  any  fur- 
ther progrees.  ..  ,       1. 

I78S'17B7  The  Danieh  Admiral  Loweooro,  eailed  to  "re-dwcover"  (ae  tde 


■■Mr 


IMTaOOUCTIOM^ 


^ 


IX 


i 


phraae  is),  Eaat  OreeAland,  but  his  vessel  being  damaged  bjr  the  fee,  h« 
returned  to  Denmark  unsuccessful. 

1789  Alexander  Mackenzie,  afterwards  knijphted.  discovered  the  Maokenzid 
river  by  a  land  journey,  and  trace^  it  to  the  Frozen  Sea.  His  tediously- 
written  journey  has  been  read  by  every  one  conversant  with  voyages  and 
trft vds "  '  * 

17M  Mr.  Duncan  examined  Chesterfield  inlet:  his  men  mutinied,  and  here- 
turned,  inconsequence,  without  succreas. 
.4  1815-181^  Lieutenant  Kotzebue,Jna  vessel  named  the  Rurik,  fitted  out  for 
discovery  at  the  expense  o£.  the  i  Russian  Count  Romanzoff,  proceeded 
round  Cape  Horn,  and  attempted-  the  discovery  of  the  north-wiBst  passage, 
by  the  wa^  of  Behring's  strait.    This  he  passed,  and  entered  on  the  sea 

.  whfdi  washes  the  northern  shore  of  the  American  continent;  discovering 
also  the  sound  which,  bears  his  name,  and  which  had  been  passed  unob- 
served by  Captain  Cook.  He  returned  unsuccessful,  as  far  as  even  the 
slightest  attempt  at  t^e  passage  is  ooncerned,  since  he  did  not  succeed  ia 
rraebing  ley  Cape. 

1818  In  t^  year  I  circtimnavigated  Baflin's  bay,  and  by  this  means  restdred 
to  our  fhairts,  whence  they  had  been  expunged,  the  valuable  discoveries 
of  that  great  navigator,  whose  name  it  bears:  correcting  them  only  where 
^  the  imperfection,  of  hisymeans,  and  other  circumstances,  had  lefl  errors, 
of  snuul  importance  compared  to  what  he  had  effected.  I  need  not  name 
here,  what  else  in  its  consequences  to  commerce,  was  the  result  of  this  my 
first  voyage. 

1818  Bu^hao  made  a  fruitless  attempt  to  reach  the  PolcS;  having  failed,  from 
cireumstances  beyond  his  control,  he  returned  in  consequence  of  the 
^       damage  sustainedby  his  ship. 

1819-1820  Parry  in  hislSrst  voyage,  between  latitude  74°  N,  and  113"  W,  dis- 
covered Melville  island.  North  OeorgiaA,  now  called  Parry's  islands,  and 
Prince  Regent's  inlet,  and  was  the  first  to  winter  in  these  regions. 

1830-1821  Franklin  in  his  first  journey  from  Hudson's  bay,  by  land,  for  this  pur- 
pose, traced  the  coast  of  America  between  Heame'river  and  point  Turna- 
gain. 

1821-1822  Parry,  in  his  second  voyture,  discovered  the  land  which  he  has 
termed  Melville  peninsula,  togetner  with  the  strait  which  he  iias-named 
after  his  ships,  the  Fury  and  Hecltf. 

180^1823  Franklin,  in  his  second  journey,  traced  the  coast  of  America  be- 
tween Mackenzie  river  and  Cape  Back;  while  Dr.  Richardson,  separa- 
ting from  him  for  tHh  purpose,  surveyed  the  coast  between  Hearne  and 
Mackenzie  rivers..     '  »        ^ 

1822*1829  Parry,  in  his  third  voyage,  penetrated  djown  Prince  Regent's  inlet 
as  far  as  latitude  728  30'  in  longitude  91°  W.  In  this  voyage  the  Fury 
was  lost,  and  he  in  cojisequence,  retiirned  unsnccessful. 

163^-1836  Beechy,  in  a  voyage  which  occupied  the  period  denoted  in  these 
dates,  passed  through  Behring's  strait,  and  attempted  to  penetrate  to  the 
,eastward:-he  reachmi  the  71°  23i'  latitiideand  the  156°  21i'  west  longitude, 
leaving  about  ISO  miles  unexplored  between  his  own  and  Franklin's  disco- 
veries. 

1827  Parry,  in  this  vear,  made  an  unsuccessful  attempt  "to  reach  the  North 
Pole;  It  having  been  imagined  that  a  free  passage  (o  the  equator  itaight 

Eossibly  be  made  in  that  direction, 
e  results  of  all  these  vovages  show  that  the  discovery  anduirvey  of  the 
land  between  Greenland  ana  Asia  had  gradually  advanced:  so  inat  when  my 
voyage  was  undertaken  in  1829,  there  were  only  150  miles  on  the  west  side,  near 
Behring's  strait,  and  500  miles  on  the  east  side,  between  Cape<Garry  and  Cape  ' 
Turoagain,  unexplored.  Davis  may  be  said  to  have  made  the  first  iinportaot 
advance  towards  a  passage,  and  Baffin  the  second.  The  latter  was  found  to 
be  correct  in  his  latitudes,  but  his  longitudes  were  proved  to  he  the  reverse. 
The  last  of  these  statements  on  his  part  seems  to  have  led  to  the  unjust  sap- 
IHuition  that  he  was  equally  incorrect  in  every  thing;  whence  it  happened, 
under  some  criticisms  which  I  have  now  no  intention  to  examine,  that  all 
whwh  ha  had  done  was  asserted  to  be  incorrect  and  false.  Hence  was  James's 
island  expunged  from«our  charts,  as  I  have  remarked  in  a  former  note  on  his 
voyage;  but  far  more  uncharitably  as  well  as. improperly,  the  bay  which  had 
so  long  and  so  justly  born  his  name,  was  equally  obliterated:  as  if  this  great 

B 


J 


4^ 


%" 


:-f.-- 


I.  . 


■X    s.  -  MITROPUCTION.         ^  -        ^ 

navigator  had  seen  nothing'  and  done  nothing.  It  is  not  thus  that  men  vitll  be 
tempted  to  sacrifice  theic  time,  their  comfortB,  their  fortunes,  and  their  lives, 
in  the  service  of  mankind:  but  if  fame  must  hereafter  be  allotted  or  withheld  r 
by  any  one  who  may  assume  the  office  of  a  judge,  then  let  the  inen  of  ability 
and  enterprise  withdraw,  unless  they  are  of  that  better  spirit  which  finds  its 
reward  in  an  approving  conscience. 

If  th^  name  of  Baffin  was  restored  to  its  exalted  place,  as  I  trust  it  was  by 
my  voyage  in  1818, 1  may  now  proceed  to  remark,  that  the  results  of  my  late 
expedition  consist  in  the  discovery  of  King  William's  land;  the  isthmus  and 
peniQsula  of  Boothia  Felix;  the  golf  of  Boothia:  the  western  sea  of  King  Wil- 
liam, and  the  true  position  of  a  northern  magnetic  pole;  and'in  regardto  the 
question  of  a  north-west  passage,  it  is  fully  established  that  there  is  none 
through  Prince  Regent's  iplet,  or  to  the  southward  of  the  latitude  of  740  north. , 
Besides  this,  many- important  and  interesting  facts  regarding  Magnetism  and 
other  branches  of  science  and  natural  knowledge  in  the  concnision  of  the  voy- 
age. The  banks  of  the  Isabella  and  Alexander  werle  restored  to  their  former 
position  in  the  chart,  and  the  line  of  coast,  fully  verified;  and  several  har- 
bours surveyed  and  discovered.  .    ,'  ' 

There  remains,  therefore,  still  the  ISO  miles  to  the  westward,  and  to  the 
eastward  the  space  between'^Cape  Turnagain  and  the  coast  seen  by  Sir  Ed- 
ward Parry,  wnich  may  be  estimated  at  400  iqiles. 

It  is  not  generally  known  that  the  question  of  "a  north-west  passage,"  which 
had  been  lyingdormant  since  the  voyt^e  of  Captain  Phipps,  was,  m  1817,  re- 
vived by  Mr.  William  Scoresby,  a  faigQy  gifled  and  talented  navigator,  who 
then  commanded  a  abip  on  the  Greenland  nshery,  but  now  a  respectable  and 
useful  member  of  the  Church  of  England,  attfExeter.  This  gentleman,  in  a 
well  penned  letter  to  Sir  Joseph  Banks,  represented  that  so  great  a  change 
had  taken  place  in  the  seasons  and  the  position  of  ihe  ice  in  the  Arctic  Re- 
gions, that  the  time  had  probably  arrived  when  the  long-agitated  problem 
m^ht  be  solved.  -  ^ 

His  object  was,  no  doubt,  employment  on  tluQArduous  service,  that  as  he  had 
been  the  proposer  he  might  share  in  the  glorjr^  the  enterprise.  Wh^his 
services  were  rejected  does  not  appear,  but  1  have  his  own  adthority  fbr jptiy- 
ing  that  he  would  have  accepted  "any  situation  in  the  expedition  which  a  gen- 
tlem^  could  hold."  He  caAnot,  however,  be  deprived  of  the  merit  of  beiiw 
the  promoter  of  all  the  attempts  which  have  been  made  sinee  <hat  time.  Sir 
Joseph  Banks's  high  recommendation  of  his  proposal  to  the  Government  was 
attended  to,  and  a  circiilar  was  written  to  discover  what  officer  of  the  navy 
had  served  most  among  ice.  In  the  mean  time  ships  were  purchascsd,  and 
were  not  only  in  a  great  state  of  forwardness  beibre  I  was  selected  to  com- 
mand them,  out  aU  the  junior  officers  were  appointed.  The  purser  and  my 
nephew,  then  only  seventeen  years  of  agei  being  (he  only  individueJs  of  my 
own  selection.  * 

I  believe  there  is  no  instance  on  record  where  an  officer  was  appointed  to 
command  such  an  enterprise  without  his  having  been  consulted  as  to  (he  quali- 
ties of  the.  ships  he  was  to  conduct;  but  with  me  it  was  not  the  case,  and  when 
I  arrived  in  London  I  was  concerned  to  discover  that  the  ships  (by  tluit  time 
half  finished.)  were  total^  unfit  for  such  a  service;  but  my  remonstrances  were 
too  late,  and  I  was  told  that  if  I  did  not  choose  to  accept  the  command  sortie 
one  else  would;  and  as  I  had  left  the  Driver,  it  was  the  only  chance-I  had  for  pro- 
motion. I  must  here  remark,  however,  that  I  throw  no  biame<on  the  late  Aami- 
raltv  on  this  account;  their  lordships  consulted,  before  I  was  selected,  people 
.well  qualified  to  give  them  information;  but  these  people  had  ships  to-  sell  or 
strengthen,  and  the  temptation  of  gaining  6  or  7000/.,  was  sufficient  to  turn  the 
scale;  and  I  alone,  who  had  the  whole  responsibility,  was  doomed  to  be  the  suf- 
ferer. The  truth  of  my  assertion  is  fully  demonstrated  in  the  narrative  of  my 
first  vo3rage,  and  in  the  employment,  subsequently,  of  ships  of  a  totally  difiiarent 
class.  The  officers  were  all,  certainly,  as  seamen  and  navigators,  well  quali- 
fied, but  mine  had  ever  wintered,  or  had  any  considerable  experience  among 
ice;  the  service  was.  entirely  new  to  them,  and  for  this  reason  ice  masters  and 
mates  were  appointed,  whose  opinioqs  of  course  had  much  the  more  weight, 
but  if  I  had  had  officers  of  my  own  selection,  I  could  have  found  those  who 
combmed  those  qualit^s  with  experience  among  ice,  even  more'  than  my  own; 
and  I  would  certainly  have  employed  Mr.  Scoresby.  As  the  results  of  my  first 
expedition  have  been  long  before  the  publk,  aiid  as  it  has  been  alluded  to  in 


—T:?!^-: 


INTRODUCTION. 


XI 


the  eourae  of  this  narrative,  I  need  only  remark  that  it,  a^  well  as  the  mibse- 
qoent  voyages  which  precede  my  last,  proves  how  much,  or  rather  how  entirely 
Our  humble  endeavours  depend  on  Divine  .Providence,  which  has  wisely  put 
less  within  our  power  than  in  any  other  kind  of  navigation.  Added  to  the  dis- 
advantages which  I  have  loentioned,  there  were  others  which  were  beyond  our 
control,  which  seetaed  to  combine  against  the  success  of  the  enterprise  and 
the  disappointment  created  a  feeling  towards  the  commander,  against  which 
nothitebut  a  consciousness  that  he  nad  always  done  his  duty,  could  have  sup- 
ported him;  and  which  he  now  confesses  made  him  anxious  to  prove  that  he 
could  treat  with  a  far  different  fee'lins  all  the  abuse  which  has  been  so  unspar- 
ingly, and  he  must  add  unjustly  attached  to  his  name.  The  expeditions  sub- 
sequent to  my  first  were  closely  watched  by  myself,  with  the  view  of  correcting 
errors-from  whatever  cause  they  might-arise,  and  I  soon  discovered  uiat  the 
.  ships  which  had  been  employed  sincf!  1817,  had  been  far  tpo  large;  for  while 
they  rarried  provisions  only  in  the  «une  proportions  to  their  creitB,  as  a  vessel 
half  the  size  does  to  her  crew,  they  drew  such  an  increased  depth  of  water^ 
VIZ.,  eighteen  feet  mstead  of  eight,  as  to  render  navigation  in  them  much  more 
unsafe,  ^s  in  the  instance  of  the  Fury,  which  tMp  was  damaged  because  her 
depth  was  sreater  than  that  of  the  ice,  and  when  damaged  had  to  be  unloaded 
and  hove  down,  and  during  this  prOcess  that  occupied  several  days,  she  was 
wrecked;  whereas  the  Victory  was  actually  laid  on  the  ground,. with  all  her 
stores,  and  when  the  tide  fell  she  was  dry  (for  she  drew  only  seven  feet),  and 
her  leak  was  stopped.  Like-the  Fury,  she  carried  two  and  a  half  years*  pro- 
visions, besides  coals  for  1000  hours;  and  had  the  boiler  and  other  iMirts  of  the 


far  more  fit  than  either  the  Isabella,  Fury,  or  Hecla.    Sir'Edwa'rd  Parry's 
^o  Toyaees  in  that  direction,  and  Sir  John  .Franklin's  journeys  to  the  Potor 
Sea,  had  directed  the  eyes  of  the  scientific  world  to  Prince  Regent's  intet,and 
witn<the  exception  of  the  late<  Major  Bennell,  there  was  no  one  that  I  con- 
versed with  on  the  subject,  who  did  not  say,  that  if  no  passage  was  found 
between  Cape.Gkirry  and  Point  Turnagain  there  could  be  hone  at  aU.    The 
Major  was  indeed  of  opinion  that  there  was  none  there,  and  bis  reasons  for  it 
were  well  lounded.  It  was,  however,  obvious  that  it  became  my  ditty,  in  under- 
takmg  this  enterprise,  to  decide  that  question  in  the  first  place,  and  then  turn 
my  attention  to  the  next  opening  further  north,  and  it  was  an  extraordinary  * 
fact  that  the  first  discovery  we  made  was,  that  Oreswell  iMiy  was  at  least  thirty 
miles  deeper  than  where  the  land  had  been  laid  down  on  thepreceding  voyage  - 
even  after.it  had  been  seecf  i>om  both  the  ship  and  the  shore  for  several 
days,  and  it  was  not  until  we  aiitu93ly-iealked  round 'it  that  we  were  certain 
that  no  passa^  existed  in  that  direction;  proving  how  very  deceiving  the 
appearance  of  ice  in  a  bay  or  passage  is,  by  its  having  deceived  all  the  officers 
of  both  the  Hecla  and  Fury,  after,  too,  an  experience  of  eight  years,  just  As 
it  kitd  myself  and  the  pilots  of  the  Isabella,  in  1818.  Neverthdess  I  determined 
to  follow  my  first  plan,  which  was  also  that  approved  of  by  Commander  Ross, 
and  Mr.  Thom,  the  second  andnhi^d  in  thO  direction.    I  shall  leave  the  re- 
mainder of  my  proceedings  for  the  reader  of  my  narrative,  which  is  carried  on 
in  the  shape  of  a  journal,  which  was  Written  by  myself  daily.    The  ship  was 
fitted  out  m  a  manner  far  superior  to  any  other ^hs.  she  combined  every  im- 
.  provement  which  had  previously  been  made,  and  the  provisions  were  of  the 
very  best  quality;  and  althotufh  the  feeling  was  against  her  qualities,  in  conse- 
sequence  of  the  lamentable  future  of  the  machinery,  sheproved  to  be  the  very 
best  vessel  that  was  ever  employed  on  such  a  service.  .The  instruments  were 
ehiefly  my  own;  the  transit  was  36  inches,  and  the  theodolite  9  inches,  both  by 
Jones;  and  several  instruments  were  lent  by  the  Admiralty  and  Colonial  Sec- 
retary, all  of  which  were  lost,  excepting  a  dipping  needle,  now  in  the  possession 
ol  Captam  J^.  Ross,  belonging  to  the  Admiralty;  two  of  the  chronometers 
were  my  owh,  one  the  property  of  Messrs.  Parkinson  and  Frodsham,  and 
three  belonged  to  Mr.  R^urray:  all  of  these  performed  well,  but  four  of  them 
were  lost  with  the  ship.    Commander,  now  Captain  J.  C.  Ross,  who  was 
second  in  command,  had  during  the  whole  time  the  charge  of  the  transit,  and 
to  him  belong  all  the  observations  made  with  it,  and  with  a  sixty-six  inch  tele- 
scope of  3t  object  glass,  belonging  to  me;  but  these  observations  must,  with 
the  Natural  History,  also  by  him,  form  a  part  of  an  appendjx,^  which  will  be 


.;> 


kii 


INTRODDCTION. 


published  separate  frofu  the  narrative^  in  which  are  only  the  abstracts,  whidi 
would  concern  the  general  reader.    The  sketches  front  which  the  drawinn 

]?[Si  ?!."?*'*.£''*"  *fi*'"  ^y¥\:  RopaW's  invaluable  perspective  instranZnW^ 
and  tterelbre  TOM<  be  true  delineations:  these,  although  they  have  been  narUv 
redcfi«rn  by  Harding  and  Rowbotham,  and  engraved  on  steel  by  the  first  en- 

^rravers,  whose  names  will  be  found  on  the  plates,  were j>riffinally  mv  own 
■ketches,  but  they  are  only  offered  to  the  public  as  faithful  tluiTtrations  of  the 
^*'iiii- i."H?  ''«"  awpe  that  I  do  not  posseb  such  talents  in  that  art  as  couM 
embellish  It,  were  the  scenery  even  more  favourable.  The  Meteorological 
Table,  whwh  is  given  in  abstract,  will  be  in  full  in  theAppendix,  as-weli  as 
I  JK?"!?lu  Variation,  and  a  new  theory  of  the  Aurora  BoreaUs:  indeed,  the 
length  of  the  narrative  has  eo  much  exceeded, what  I  expected,  that  1  have  not 
been  able  to  give  any  of  thp  scientific  obsefvations  at  full  length:  as  I  have 
preibrred  giving  Commander  Ross's  joiuaxfeys,  in  which  will  be  found  the  most 
rS*  «r  ♦^m'**"1^^*^*  of  our  discovery;  and  also  that  of  the  present  posi- 

,  tioh  of  We  Magnetic  Pole.  The  methods  which  necessity  pointed  out  forthe 
preserwitlonrfAeheaJthairf  discipline  of  the  crew  w^^  infbll;  and 

at  the  «nd  will  b^  found  an  Addenda,  comprehending  tiie  conclusion  of  our 
proceedings  after  our  happy  return.  "wu-wnwi  our. 

-J?iir  '>*•''''"''?  *?'T*^*'/™«?  "*■  commencement  until  its  conclusion, 
]^-„#  "'^fA^T?!!^®''^"  u"*.?'"  '^I  P«'OY»<'ent'»il  circumstances,  affording  an 
«Jhl«*  A'?°*^^*?y'""'®j^'j°  "go  down  into  the  sea  in  ships."  dc.,  are!^  all 
others,  fhe  most  dependent  on  the  Divine  aid,  and  the  inost  short-sigited  of  . 
mortals;  while  it  must  be  no  less  manifest,  that  if  men  trusting  in  "Km  who 
cannot  err.'  will  only  make  use  of  the  means  mercifully  put  within  their 
SSr^atef*  "^  no^difficulties  which  cannot  be  overcome,  iind  no  case  too  - 

It  u  not  necfessary  that  I  should,  in  this  Introduction,  enter  into  a  formal 
discussion  respecting  the  probability  that  yet  remains  of  finding  a  "North-west 
fhSf-^LV"  the.northwardofthe  74th  degree  of  latitude.  ffuchremSkn. 
I  have  had  occasion  to  make  on  this  subject,  will  be  found  in  the  course  of  the 
tollowmg  narrative,  wherever  occasion  lor  them  chanced  to  arise:  while,  even  '• 
iJl^ir  "^k  ™u  ™  *?  ™y  °"  *•*"  ff^A*  <J"e«twn  than  I  have  done,  any  such  dis* 
gteSyrefSr"  "*  snpferscaed  by  thatf,Sir  Ed^vard  Parry,  to  whffl 

Let  no  one  suppose  that  I  do  not  estimate^he  merits  of  that  officer  both  am 
niHZ'^^  ?"•*  *  nayfeator,  as  highly  as  the  public  has  agreed  fo  dS^  Wvlf^"    - 
S«^JS-2S?K '"*'"'  ^""^  pursuit,  andvhate  together  undergone,  the  same 


SS?»*?^*'"''®i'^'*]""'**"*^**  ic^.vWith  Worms  and  toils;  each  still  pursuimr 
one  obiect  and.endeavourlng  aftetOpe  (k&c.    If  we  have  «us  been  is  rJraJ./ 

J«*^?nte^l'l[SiT^vi?-^';"J;'®**^^  dlelikecbuW  ever  haveinf 

^I^-^'^S-'r?"?*"  WL'.*  he  supji>sod .  that  La  Perouse  shbuld  hatelhi 
memory  of  Cook,  or  W  this  great  man  had  he  then  lived,  should  have  sJek" 
ened  at  the  success  oflhe  bold  and  intelligent  French  navi^tor.  BrotheSl 
'i^S^'JH  ^^^  "T"  ™«.W^  '"  Rne  track  of  discowy.  If  therfare 
SIS^.TlSJE^'^i'V"!!!'''"*  '"*  nnagini&  or  exciting  jealousies  and  disllkM 

I  £?i  Pf^fSiP,  ^^°  5®*  *hia|{  it  needful  to^iseuss  the  question  of  this  passase. 
'  ""y  HaiPwe  a  few  remarks  on  the'ijubject  Which  might  not  veryreadilv 
^^JXfu^^^"'?^'  ?°*.**  least,  to  those  who  have  not  familiari^^m- 

n^EsTi  I  *^V^^^  9*""*  'P  geography,  by  previous  reading. 
nfln«t*S«i!?iLf  T*"°  «"  the  present  expedition,  various  hypotheses  were 
Sr*m'*^*"'*  *"*  probable  place  of  the  expected  passage.    AJl  these  were 
jnstifiabl(i,  m  some  manner  or  other,  or  in  a  greater^rleis  degree-,  as  hyn^ 

Sri-*'^?-^?'^'*'*'^^''*? "«*' '^" *•'.'"■* <>♦  Pi^oof.  On  the  asserted. oriW' 
nwT.  "wications  of  such  a  passage,  m  one  dirfection  or  in  another,  I  had  nevSr. 
SiSSh^li*-^/*^*^"'  though  willing  lo..lis»en  to  all,  and  des'iroqs,  ?Xr 
ir  faS:        '  *^*'"^  °"®  *°  **"*  indulgeiKPe  of  his  own  speculatimis 

I  ii^l'^i  -^«i¥"  "°  hypothec*  of  my  own,  I  think  1  may  now  safely  say  that 
fi.rm^n^nnPi"'"^  any  knowledge  by  this  voyage,  which  would  justify  me  in 
forming  one;  assuredly  at  least,  not  in  proposmg  a  new  scheme  for  the  discove" 


%^'-x^~ 


V 


IlfTRODDCTION. 


Xiti 


■■v 


age  throuffh  Lanoaater  atrait  and  by tbe^ay  of  Mel^e  ialknd/i  b»:»  5^ 
ii«  mort  tfaan  waa  known  befOrb;  n6r  ha*e  fMy  MStarefno;  i.^.^**'' 
dpubta.  to  ofler  reapeetin^ it.  which  I  could  add  fowKaarrSSd^^^SS^nii 
diacuaaed.  It  waa  a  portion  of  thia  region  to  Kh  we  neve?i^nSl  « 
ceaa  inaalnuch  aa  theaeheme  which  I  h£i  detSnedto  fdlow  ISL  ?dXS^ 
one,  leading  me  in  another  direction,  and  becauae  we  c3  nev22^^t™S?^ 

day,  I  ahnoat  aay,  when  we  rfrat  truated  ouraelvea  to  thia  bSbarooa  3,op|  ^ 
Thua  ako.  whether  the  imposaibUity  of  paaajng  northwarS  b^thS^V  «p 
the  Pole,  ianowfully  admitted,  or  not,  afnce  t'he  iiifire  of  K^ry'aMltt^nf 
thu  too  la  a  qneation  reepectiner  which  f he  courae  of  my  own  n^^tioM 
=  not  allow  me  to  form  any  additional  coniecturee.  ^         navigation  did 

«iSJ2?Ttl'&?***'?P*  *'"i?V  "^'-T'^^  o"/  of  wWch,  aa  far  aaa  paaaaeeiia  cto- 
nSSS^?- JH'"®J'  "u"''  ^^°'^  ^^  V°^^'  has  ffiv4n  me  no  neVhywtheaL  to 
offer,  nor  any  freah  acheme  to  propose,  and  if  afl  therefore  ofVkS-JHiff^ 
ture, aa hoM ia concerned,  remainVaa  itwas, the nStivl  waukW m.Si: 
S-L12^'  fl««**ion,  independent  of  all  the  otherlSowfeffie  £  g^^y 
or  whatever  elae,  which  has  been  gained  by  thia  laborion^^^«»A  .«SS??hi 

tifiable  and  natural  hope  of  aucceed  ng,  waa  the  laat  effi)rt  of  l^r^  mnSV^ 

*  ZW^"*!"  k'Iu''*''¥""**^1*"^  >''  it  •>«.  «n  all  oteaeiona  of  life  aa  in  lhi« 
A  gam  to  demolish  those  hopes  which  only  tend  td  deSn  the  mprif  »rVi^^ 
result  at  least  belonga  to  our  present  voy^e.    We  i»?Sd  LSiiinLiKf 


^ 


cation  or  commerce.    The  BtntPn?  in  J;«rf,  k     ^  u   P'"^Po«e»  of  communn 


j- 


ii* 


INTRODDCnON. 


■ueh,  as  he  andl  have  shown,  that  alt  utility  of  this  kind  would  beawild  hone, 
not  only  at  any  given  period,  but  forever.  ■   , 

It  remains,  therefore,  to  say,  since  I  need  not  lon^j^er  dwell  on  this  subjeit. 
that  while  my  voyage  and  its  rwults-have  demolished  all  hypothesis  and  hopes 
butlbose  which  may  still  be  entertained  respecting  Lancaster  strait;  and  the 
roie,  11,  mdeed,  the  latter  has  still  an  advocate  remaiung,  there  are  now 
fewer  temptations  than  ever  to  make  any  fresh  attempt  for  solving  this  prob- 

This  at  least  is  true,  as  far  as  an  actual  or  practical  communication  round  the 
north  coast  of  America  is  concerned:  yet  how  is  it  more  ti-ue  now,  than  when 
tne  problem  lyas  first  proposed  (I  will  not  say  by  the  early  navigators),  but  by 
those  who  ajgainjirought  forward  this  scheme  before  my  first  voyage,  in  1818, 
and  caused  it  to  be  put  into  action  during  so  many  successive  seasons,  under  a 
course  of  expenditure  so  heavy? 

It  did  not  require  more  than  my  first  voyage,  it  scarcely  required  that  to 
show,  that  no  commerce  could  ever  be  attempted  in  this  direction,  even  had 
some  smgular  good  fortune  proved  that  the  American  continent  did  not  extend 
further  north  than  Hecia  and  fur  v'strait,  or  had  terminated  much  short  of  this: 
eyMf.  I  may.  say,  had  the  actual  passage  been  efiected  by  some  luckv  ship. 
Merchants  risk  much  on  commerce,  it  is  true,  but  they  are  not  given  to  hazard 
every  thing,  in  oppsition  to  the  dictates  of  common  sense,  or  in  equal  defiance 
of  experience  and  probability.  They  have  a  test,  also,  by  which  their  united 
body  judges  of  every  thing  m  cases  of  this  nature;  and  that  Barometer  is  sta- 
tioned at  Lloyd  s  Coffee-house,  lo  be  consulted  by  all.  On  what  terms  could 
such  an  msurance  be  efiected:  on  what  premium,  evep  under  the  favourable 
cjrcumstances  which  1  have  thus  supposed?  Where  the  sum,  and  therefore 
the  hazard  for  each  man  is  small,  men  wilfgo  very  far,  under  very  slight  hopes: 
but  It  IS  to  be  doubted  if  a  premium,  even  to  the  value  of  the  entire  shm  and  car- 
go, would  have  filled  the  list  handed  to  those  who,  bold  and  liberal  as  they  are, 
or  hopeful  as  they  may  be,  are  men  of  acute  understandings,  and  of  more  infor- 
tion  than  is  sometunes  suspected.  Commanders  there  are,  it  is  certain,  who 
would  have  tried,  and  tried  any  thing;  for  in  such  men,  thank  heaven,  England 
has  never  been  deficient,  and,  1  hope,  never  will.  As  to  our  seamen,  there  is 
notlung  which  they  will  not  undertake:  or  at  least,  in  my  younger  days,  there 
IB  nothing  which  they  would  not  h«^ve  undertaken,  throwing  all  their  cares,  as 
they  ever  do,  on  him  h*  whom  they  are  conducted.  May„it  so  continue  under 
this  new  era  of  rising  hgrhtluul  spreading  knowledge!-  But  more  than  this 
woukLhave  been  wanted;  and  that,  I  verily  believe,  would  never  have  been 
obtained. 

With  respect  to  my  future  attempt  of  this  nature,  my  opinion.  I  presume, 

may  be  easily  extracted,  from  the  general  tenour  of  the  following  journal,  and 

from  various  remarks  made  as  occasion  gave  rise  to  them,  as  welfas  from  what 

1  have  just  said;  smcethe  conclusions  from  this  are  almost  loo  obvious  to  re- 

.  quire  a  distmct  statement. 

If  there  are  now  no  hopes  of  a  useful  passage,  as  these  ought  to  have  ceased 


/ 


../ 


^, 


,.» 


1?  e  •  ^  survey  oi  we  norinern  snores  oi  America,  otiu  mwe  may 
J  TS  J»«rt™a?»e.  M  a  desired  object..when  it  is  to  their  spirit  of  enterprise 
and  abuity  thatthe  world  owes  nearly  all  that  isyet  known  respecting  this  lohg 
obscure  ami  difficult  piece  of  geography.  Surely  also  it  is  right,  that  this  boQ 
spwit  should  not  flag  ibr  want  of  the  means  of  exertion,  nor  these  abiUties  and 
experience  and  science  lie  dormant,  or  cease  to  be  cultivated  for  want  of  ob\ 
jects  capable  of  rousing  ambition,  dod  of  occopations  which  may  tempt  men  to\ 
make  or  mamtain  themselves  what  men  can  be,  when  inducements  are  held  ont 
to  them.  V  ' 

Where  economy  is  put  into  the  balance  against  all  this,  it  is  a  contemptible 
economj  indeed;  too  much  as  such  false  economy  has  become  the  rule  of  an 
age  which  has  rendered  our  once  liberal,  and  splendidly  liberal  country,  a  &r 
other  Britain  than  it  once  was.  Alas,  that  men  cabi^ot  see  how  miser8J)le  is  tbe 
spirit  of  money  making  and  money  saving,  how  wretchbdly  debased  inan  b»f 
comes  when  tlTis  forms  his  sole  pursuit,  whei< alibis  notions  of  moral  conduct 
are  confined  within  the  base  code  of  Franklia's  "Poor  Richard;"  to  produce  the 
effects  which  it  has  done  in  the  country  to  which  he  preached  hi»^^religion,"  I 
may  call  it,  not  merely  its  morality.    No^iuch  is  the  spirit  of  my  noble-minded 


\- 


f 


V 


INTRODUCTION. 


XV 


friend,  to  whom  the  world  u  now  indebted  for  the  produetg  of  tha  ^rA«>n«  *«„ 

observation,  with  a  repeUtion  of  the  BugeLtiomv&h  iCe  S  rSSl  i^fh- 

commencement  of  mjr  journ4    If  I  waf  GnfortunSe  L  my  own  s  ^S  J?.«i* 

•  ft"*  Y?«  ?®*  *V  mww'tune  of  the  plan,  but  of  theVerael  iWr"v  ftS  Xf«*    f 

the  ship,  its  aixe  or  eonstructibn,  but  of  its  wretehedT^l  Kl^iTt  l??'  "°^'?» 

.  nery.TMyoDinion  remains  unaltWKve'sSScStt 

L^rf4"ru°a&roiJ^a 
s'll^^;r«^%fxal^^^^^^^^ 

1  nave  not,  m  these  miscellaneous  remark^tao^eauestionorH  "nArth  «-«♦ 
passage,"  given  such  sketches  of  my  geqgrapM  dSSovwfes  m  1  o^ifc^S* 

ttlias  otfered  m  the  journal,  and  smce  a  connected  view  of  the  fact  iVni»ht  tuff 

STiSlif  ^''^iSf*'''^K'l°'5''''»^  readersnot?revi?us??i^  'aS*S 
m!n^^  '***''*'  *"  ""'^  ^«  preceding  discoveries,  maW  m?Sf^ 

«  Jhilt*"!'"""'^'?'  ""'^'  *°  ^"l^'I"  "»  '^ord"  alone,  and  without  i  eferenee  to 
a  chart,  to  a  picture,  of  facts  which  saves  many  worSs  and  ako  nr  ffinf^^^hf 

t^^^AS^kl^  •"■;'?*?"  of  language  eve/ca![i  do  '  LSThTrwdwatttt 
SX°  teS^^  '* "  here  given,  and,  with  its  aid,  a  few  wo?d!WJ&^J 

li-il^ili  Sf»«e*«  seen  that  the  last  point  in  Prince  Regeiit's  inlJt  which  Sir 

least  to  that  nf«"n«,?i.™-  *^°®'"  problem,  tor  which  an  interei  it.  next  at 

Bee( 
haai 


•|^ 


* 


4. 


■m 


f 


#. 


UftRODUOTtOM. 


Atmo.iT  ^JTr  "*  I"*  examination  and  meaaS^in*  of  d 
**^  J™  follpwiMr  verbal  exDlanadon.  »lll  h.  XVtI  " 


ess  JiKT Affc  'g"  ^  of o/sJ. 

-  -    >no'S%en!Sa  ^n;iSShrJ5?ST„?£I?'l!r.l.^^7.  *»» 


u  uiiraa,  1 

twrthern  1 

MaclMnaie  river,  beinJ  the  only  di^Sii-Jlf'fil^^l  ?'  *S'  «■«.»>•  nwath  of 

tliu.  traced  Jill  C.dtWoS^o5^.XSljlt£tiK^  '  ¥^ 

J^ 'he  io«rne;^;i!^^^^^^ 

S^yiSl;  P^urtt~vki^r"LttglSf'o^^^ 

<»f thuB  SaSriS  oS^SS?chkrf?hS  ^^  <^« yew  *ort portion ofthe coa.uSd 
that  can  evw^Terived^ouJd  be  «f.It^^^^^^^  **''*""•*  "**  ^"'J'  MtirfiiSS 
line  instead  of  rblMk  fiSt  nf  1,m. -^1  •  **  '?•  ""^^  P'*»e«  of  Paper»  a  Uaek 
often  cimdBtf^iSdShtt  matter  ftin'lK'K^  ^f^'  ''/J?"  human  LppieM^ 
or  whaterer«l8e  wSl  «^«^^?^  m-tl®'*'^^^^        this,  the  anatomy  of  a  fly's  toS! 

iMM.re.pecl«>»  li.  Miliir.  of  all  ffiirfrSi'sJSlSSJSff 


ofl£r*mr  ™?ii;  -  poBMwy  at  more  poiou  Hum  one.  and  will 


uwi  •uw  mil  luoreiure  not 

this  tract  from  Melville 

%■•■«  ■««■■>  *«JKi_  ^  _  ^^         _  ■  .  .■ 


•ix.-.  »'  •«**"™.  anq  connexions  or  these  islands  mi. 

source  of  error  ^offiri[vt^«'^«% '"'  ''*'«  o^""'  •«*  «>  lon/tha 


„il-     * 


I 


follow  that  he  had  seea  all  t^t  larfto  th«  ^Lf**"^*?™  'P9'*«nt.  it  must 


ParrVj  thuB  proves  l 


now  laid  down  by  us  as^lvinir  to  the  ftJJiSlLi'i^i'XrV'^'L'^'iJ''^'  *'°4"«  ^"o  'and 

bjr  Parry,  wiU  prow  to  bethitwh£h^«„  ♦      ^''j  ?P?"»'"ek  thus  named 

*^9%SZi!^'t&^^^:i'^^  anf  we  wai  then  «• 

oriUcisms.whiohlamhereSS^hABi^^  the 

the  east  side  of  his  bav  whirKK»%o.  ii.^5r  '*"^>  loiwitude  u  incorrect  on 

eastward,  it  hLI^KM^n  Si^LS°rfc  ?"^^     *~? «»'  ^  the 

■ervations  of  modern  nav^tors  at  thS  nm^hifK"?  r  **"'"'^*°*  with  the  ob- 

entranceofJLancaster  wuiS  aSdh««S%f^^^^®r*''^'*-'  the 

the  result  w^djKKSSSe'SS'S^^^  thai 

tenS^r^"'"*^*"*®*'*  ac<S.untW  ftSr    ^^^'^  which  cannot  be, 

a<^aKl"SJffl&"teSS^^^^^  -abject,  as  my  voy. 

iSist  now  turn  to  ttoWestern  ^i^ffl'*"^  them  seem  amply  to  joitify.^i 
"""■)are  the  rea^j^^'' ^'^'^'^l^^^fnnho,^ thi  iSiy 

Sa.?*  the  re^2M?tio"jH?'d2^^ 


'     /^. 


fected  theiP  viJaSihy^rcoL'SSn!  ^*  It*"*  '^r/^F'navigators  ef- 
^timescjSfStelSS^ 


*j- 


^ 


.'i'ii^> '» -  " 


tiaiJ"' 


'   , 


MfH^ 


iMtrqbdction'. 


M»«t  partot  thia  jsaaat  which  I  have  bDrmed  the  wthmui  of  Boothu.  LiSl*i 

It  to  the  eaatward  which  they  reached  wai  thirt 


even  more,  since  the  luft  point 
uthtnua  which  I  h^juat  naineV/ 


cil!tde5fft&^u/Sy'°i2fe^^^^^^  *W.  cWti- 

aufficifint,  that  Ihavo  wn"tfuct4a  chart  he^  wpianationa  iii- 

renderiniitmoteintelligibe.   Fwillreauir«^^^  *''®  purpo«eof 

and  under8tandthatSt^h,t.hrf«ifS""e".!"!?''t^°n^  to  consolt 


a«iund7r,tandthatch^buura^^ 

»St'Ki?2?.SK»'n^  Ln«u«f«??™l« »?  the^pprecia! 


■^■ 


t-r- 


m 


7*  -v.^-'^-^f****^. 


-^•».jfc.  ■■   .j-'|.^.^.....,j.^^^-. 


I 


;>" 


V' 


\c~ 


■:m-^'' 


^ 


.M' 


a. 


CONtEN'TS. 


V  - 


CHAPTER  I. 


*  .'S'. 


l!heiir^eot  of  the  Expedition  Srful^Stfit,  p.  i.        " 

■  '  ■  ■  -  ..-■■■•» 

CHAPTER  II 


T»  CHAPTER  Vli' 

anrf  ElWin  Bay~The  cSmDMsf-  1"  S^'i'f«  ^•««"*  "In'«»-Cape  Elwin 
Bay-Approach  to  Fury  B^sa^&.w'l^^*'?':!''^^"^^  Adelaide 
&  of  ?£S'wr^U?"'?e  ViS^Sr!?^  ^*°*  ^°'«" '«"  "^^  *»»« 


time 


tont' 

^S^??fc£et^tte^2^r/^^^^^ 
coveries  m^  ffi  r^loffitS?J'';!?i''''i  Shore-Several  new  D™ 
"«uio  iuia  pomea— UNtructed  by  the  Ice,  and  moored,  p.  62. 


-dHAPTER  IX 


""W:  Sv:K^  Logan-Land'there- 

^th  HaKr?!^^     "^''^'^  Ice-ETwcovery  of  Eliza- 


:.L 


% 


»i      o 


'•!\ 


■if*    I  *■ 


0 
-» 

^ 


^^i, 


«  8 
5^  -/ 


?/ 


■>'       .- 


M 


?' 


t" 


"X 


XX 


COMTENTd. 


$&' 


C/HAPTER  x> 

Attempt  to  quit  Elizabeth  Ha^bou<•-Slow  ProgreBs*  along  Shore— Critical 
Position  of  the  Ship  amonff  the  Ice,  and  Escape  through  Perilous  Pass- 
age—Discovery  of  Eclipse  Harbour— Further  Qi  scoveries— Cape  St.  Ca- 
tharine and  Lax  Harbour,  p.  82.  . 

CHAPTER  XI 

,  A  heavy  Gale:  Siiccession  of  Tempesituous  Weather,  with  Snow^Partial 
clearing  of  the  Ice,  and  extrication  fronii  it— Discover  the  Island  ol  An- 
drew Ross,  Cape  Margaret,  Best  Harbour,  and  Martin  Islands— A  new 
Bay— End  of  September— General  Remarks  on  the  prc^re^s  of  the  Smp 
ana  the  mode  or  Navigating  among  Ice,  p.  90. 

^-  ^  ■         CHAPTERXII.  ^         .  ' 

Remarks  on  the  iSreseot  condition  of  the  Ship,  and  preraratioiiB  to  reduce 

the  cncupbrance  of  the  Bngine-Unrigging  of  the  Ship-A  successful. 

Bear  Hiot-r-Ascertaiik  that  wo  are  truly  frozen  in  for  the  Waiter— A 

Powder  Magazine  erected  on  Shore^Proviaions  examued— The  Gum 

and  puta  of  the  Engine  hoisted  out,  p."  104. 

CHAPTER  Xin. 
Remarks  on  the  actual  Temperature  and  «n  tijat-o!"  Sensation— Proceed  in 
lightening  the  Ship-^The  Engine  finaHy  landed,  and  the  Krusenstern  se- 
cured—Roofing  of^<he  SUp  eomidetcd-T-Remarka  on  the  T^perature-- 
Abolition  «f  the  use  of  Spirits  on  Board— Contrivances  for  Warmflng-and 
Ventilating  the  Vapour  between  Decks— Descriptron  of  the  several  Ar- 
rangements made  fer  Wintering,  as  relating  ioth  ^  the  Ship  and  |he 
'Orew,  p.  113. 

CHAI'YE^  XIV. 
The  Month  commencea  *Stormy  and  Cold— Improvement  in  its  Progres»- 
Remarka  Dn  the  Thermometer  and  Barometer— Oeeurrence  of  a  splendid 
-    Aurora  Borealis— Saraouury  ef  the  M<mth,  p.  V». 

CHAPTER  XV.  -        «  ■      ,^ 

Repekted  oeeun«nee  of  Axirera  Boreali»-<;hristmai  ^—Summary  of  the 
li|oiitli--AeiDarln  at  the  termhiation 'fifllm  Year  IW,  pv  182. 

^DAp^gD    XVI. 

Commencemeitt  6f  the^Year  1830-First  meeting  -witli  the  fisquimaax  on 
this  Coast— Description  of  Iheir  Village,  and  of  their  SooietV  and  Man- 
ners— They  are  entertained  on  Board— Communicate  aome  <ieographical 
Information,  and  promise  more,  p.  l40. 

CHAPTER  XVir.  /    '  '  *■  - . 

Reeeive  more  Geographical  InfbMiatkm  from*  'one  of  the  Kativea  called 
IkraalUk— Continue  our  Communieationa  with  them— Pure  Mercury  free- 
zes iit  length,  at  minus  SO^^The  first  Sunrise  of  the  Year— Death  of/ 
,     the  Armourer— End  of  the  Month,  and  Summary,  p.  152.    . 

'■  '^'"'■^'- '  ..•  ^^^'^■' '  -CHAPTBR  XVIU;  ^,.  .-.■'^  '-  .-^  '   .   ^_    ■ 
Pilfering  «n  the  Pari  ef  the  Nativei»-The  ftrst  ihll  of  8n«#  of  this  Ye«r 
— NMtve  Dance^9ommary  of  the  Month  of  Fi^ruary,  p.  184. 


CHAPTER.  XIX. 


-Ex- 
Snow  ■" 


Purchiue  of  Dogs  from  (he  Natives-Commander  Ross  dwiwrtA  on  an 
peditkm  to  the  Native  Huta,  fbr  lafbrmetlon— Process  of  Bodding  Si 
Hat»—Sammary  of  the  Month  of  March,  p.  171.  ^,, 

CHAPTER  XX. 

Proceedings  to  the  Tenth  of  April-Journey  and  Narrative  of  Commander 
Ross,  p.  178. 

CHAPTER  XXI.  ^ 

-WapHittveef^emiwanderRe— ,  MW>-  .        ' 


•"    »-,A, 


:«- 


\~'~ 


/ 


.a1 
m 

til  Ex- 
Snow  ~ 

|t:r 

■  .  ^    ■'  ..                      ^ 

immander                4 

\       '     -^ 

'     '  CONTKN'IV*' 

CHA^TESR  XXII. 

Proceedings  in  the  Ship,  qnd  with  the  NstiTea,.p.  IW* 

V  CHAPTER  XXni. 

Commander  Rom'  Second  Jburnej  and  NarraUve,  p.  192. 


xxt. 


CHAPTER  XXIV. 

iiorvurc  ui  wwu.»«.m»~.  Row  OH  a  Third  Exi- -^ 

lupture  with  the  Native*— Commander  Robs'  Return,  p.  Iw. 


Departure  of  Cominander  Row  on  a  Third  ExgeditlMhfrhreatening  of  a 
.  Ruptoi         -    -     —    •         '^ 


CHAPTER  XXV. 

Narrative  of  Commander  Ross,  p.  190, 

CHAPTER  XXVI. 

Repetition  of  heavy  Snow— Another  Expedition  by  Commander  Ross— An- 
other Expedition  under  my  own  charge— Summary  of  the  inontb  01  Apru, 
-     p. 219.    '.    ,  .,  ■    ■;  !,■''■:•  ■ 

-  CHAPTEiR  XXVIL 
Expedition  commenced— Narrative  of  our  Jowney— Return  to  the  Ship— O^ 
BSrvations  made  to  obtain  the  diffigrence  of  the  Elevation  of  the  Eastern  and 
\.  Western  Seas— The  dip  of  the  Needle,  and  intensity  of  Magnetic  Force, 
p.  224.  /  • 

.  CHAPTER  XXVEH.  ..-^ 

Proceedings  in  the  Ship  from  the  First  of  June— Commander  Ross'  Return,  ' 
-     p.  234.-   '  ,         .    .  ■■'■..        ^Xi 

CHAPTER  XXIX.  ^ 

Commander  Rosa*  Narrative,  p.  23S. 

,  CHAPTER  XXX.      ^  •     ^ 
Continuation  Qf  the  JonmalHSummary  of  the  Monlli,  p.  w7. 

CHAPTER  XXXI.    ^  ^  ^  ,     .  . 

An  Expedition  to  Fish  for  the  supply  of  Fish  for  the  Crew,  undertaken  by  my- 
self  and  party— Narrative  and  Retom,  p.  263. 

^  CHAPTER  XXXn.,     ^    „  .... 

Journal  of  the  Month  of  July— Summary  ef  the  MonA— TransacUons  dnrug 
August,  and  its  Summary,  p.  269. 

'  CHAPTER  XXXltl. 
Warping  out,  Unloading,  and  Final  Escape  from  our  H"^"'r;Infff*?}«?* 
Movements  among  the  Ice— Become  fixed  m  the  attempt  to  find  a  new  Har- 
bour for  the  Winter— Summary  of  September,  p.  27S. 

CHAPTER  XXXIV.       ,   _.  ,       _         1, 
Labour  in  Cutting  thl%ngh  the  Ice-Become  fixed  for  the  Wmtet-Sumaary 
oftlielifonth,p.283. 

CHAPTER  XXXV. 
Transactions  in  November— Summary  of  thatMonthr-IVoceedings  in  Deeem'- 
ber,  with  a  Summary,  p.  289. 

>         CHAPTER  XXXVL  ^  * ^  **«li^ 

Transactions  on  Board  the  Ship  in  JamM|ry,  1831-Sammafy  of  tlmt  MoDtm 
February:  with  its  Summary.   March:  its  Summary,  p.  301. 


.CHAPTER  XXXVII.,  '  ,        ..^^ 

April^An  Expedition  undertaken— Aeooont  of  this  Jonmey-flamMMi  uur 
MeMh.B,|0r. 


CHAPTER  XXXVni. 
1'  Journey,  p. «».  — 


W 


^} 


.  \  ':-;*ea 


*- 


t?5* 


■4. 


It 


l\», 


^ 


xxii 


t 


CONTENTS. 


and  deducTiona  from  thoBeTJ:  33}.      ^°'  «»e  Purpose  of  assigning  its  place, 
Rcm«^(mtI»Assienment^?ffiig& 


^'^^SSfe  SoS,  Ay?SXlmS^with  tl,e  Sununkrie.  of  tho.e 

/•     ■  :^-'  V-'  ■  ■.■   V-  •  ■     ■  /.:-,.--  ./  .■      -■     ■ 

Journal  of  Auru8t-ThfiV.v?**^^''^J^  ^LVI.  / 

Suounary  of  tl.e  montl.IteA^ggi2.*^,/S -21^ 
'^Si^^tSi:^^^''^^  and  u.*end 

«une  work-Tlie  Ship  ia  KSf  p!  m    '^^'''"^*"'"'°*''™'  "f  "» 


^.  .♦ 


^5W  P^SJ^B^iSiig^SP^^-^  the1ce-Propo«U  to  Re^ 
Land  tJie  StorS^^SarJWLil  •Ti"-^*  "hore  near  feT?  Ba?- 
wmens,  p.  4(^'*^'"™«»afy  of  Augast-Abandonment  of  the  Mineral  Bpo- 


A 


MonthWournTaSiTuSSjWoreSiSr'.23 


-JJl.!"!!- 


JH^ 


£^^ 


^**> 


i 

\ 


COMTEMTS. 


XXIU 


»  of  the 

»  place, 

/  '^x 

-^ 

imnuay* 

X- 

fthoM 

; 

to  pro- 

'bour— 

3SS. 

Mend 

.^-■■^.^.* 

/v 

m 

J  Pro- 

of the 

mu   ,         .     ..  „  CHAPTER  LrV. 

The  Jonrnala  of  Jairaary,  Febroary,  and  March,  with  their  reBpective  Sum- 
maries—Death  and  Funeral  of  thq  Carpenter,  p.  420.  ' 

CHAPTERLV. 
April:  the  Journ{aand3ummary— Mar:  the  commencement  of  the  Journeys 
intended  for  the  future  Expedition— June:  the  continuance  of  these  advanc- 
ing Journeys— July:  the  Abandonment  of  the  Winter  House,  and  arrival  at 
the  Boats— Summary,  p.  425. 

CHAPTER  IjVI 
Aueust— Detention  at  Batty  B^r^Thelce  breaks— Departure  in  the  Boats- 
Reach  the  Eastern  Coast  of  Prince  Regent's  Inlet— Meet  with  the  Isabella, 
and  are  received  on  Board,  p.  439.  . 

_     ■      .  „  ',       CHAPTER  LVII. 

Proceedings  onBoard  of  the  IsabeUa— SuWey  of  the  Coast— Departure— Ar- 
rival at  Hull,  and  m  London,  p.  442.        \ 


-.    n 


» 


/r 

ultie* 
affled 
irjof 

1^  ■ 

/,rVr' 

»    -y 

•  Re- 

^ ■             'm 

lay- 
Spo-' 

1 

thta 

'          ■'.•,* 

■,.-.;v    1 

ym*. 


;.  ■,...-^.  -i- 


\, 


•*'■'" 


-PSHW 


.  %  -ij-j"'^*-  ••*  "**"' 


•*%  -^r-*- 


* 


.■^ 


-ir. 


<ft 


4fl& 


•K." 


,  r 


|5&_ 


'JL4l^- 


r*Y'*n    J.  ;/»  --i» 


fefjss;^-    " 


X 


SECOND         ^ 

VOYAGE  OF  DISCOVERY 


TO  TBB 


AKCTX€   REGIONS. 


*     CHAPTER  L  * 

■,..    The  Prtfjeel  qf  the  Bt^itioHyondits  OutJti^\ 

Arm  the  return  of  that  expedition  which  had  attempted  to 
reach  the  Pole  inisa?,  I  aubmitted,  to  the  I^rds  Commiaaionera  of 
^  the  Admiralty,  ahd>  aabaequently,  to^he  Lord  Hidi  Admiral,  the 
plan  of  the  voyage  which  I  am  now  about  to  relate.,^  I  had  lone 
been  convinced  that  the  navigation  of  the  arctic  a^'^ould  prove 
more  easy  to  a  steam  vesael  than  to  any  merely  i^ins  ship,  and 

I      for  reasons  which  will,  I  believe,  be  foUy  appreciatedby  all  to  whom 
r  this  navi^on  is  familiar..    When  the  ice  is  opisn,  or  the  sea  navi- 
gable, it  18  either  calm,  or  the  wind  is  adverse,  since  it  is  to  southedy 

,     winds. that  this  state  of  things  is  owinc:  so  Aat  the  sailing  vessel 
is  stopped  exactly  where  eveiy  thing  dse  is  in  her  fkvtfur,  while  ' 

.     the  steam  boat  can  make  a  valuable  prO|p«aa.    The  small  drandit 
of  water  in  the^e  vessels  is  another  advantage;  their  power  can  lUso 
drive  them  through  bay  ice  where,  except  ui  a  fieah  and  favourable 
breeze,  a  sailing  ship  would  be  entirely  impeded:  i^ile  to  add  to 
all,  the  £uality  with  which  they  can  be  moved,  without  wind,  or 
m  spite  of  it,  must  render  it  comparatively  easy  for  them  to  avoid 
the  inasscs  of  ice,  and  also  fi>  find  places  of  shelter,  where  other 
vessels  would  faiL 
,  This  proposal  was  not,  however,  accepted:  but  being  satisfied 
m^  the  possibility  of  the  expected  route  to  the  westward,  through 
Prince  Regent's  ihlet,  might  thus  be  established,  or  otherwise, 
and  the  question,  therefore,  as  far  as  related  to  a  north'^west;  pas-*- 
•age  by  tiiis  sfirait,  be  set  at  rtst,  J  resolved  not  to  abandon  my 
deaign,  witiiout  making  some  further  trials,  in  anoUier  manner. 
.    I  titfurefore  laid  the  scheme  which  I  had  formed,  belbite  Mr. 


'■■i 

^ 

i 


V 


-1  - 


2E . t  ;; 

' — : — ■■ '. 7" 


■■'.  "WORD  VOTAOB  OF  WSCOVBKT 

•        ^^S!l!^* '^  ""}?  ""^  ^°*^te  friend,  with  Whose  liberalitv 

S^.  "*  ""'  ""^  ••  ""^  »"'  ""y,  ■»<>«•  expedition.  fnT« 
.  wdlh.'^  per««Ied  to  .pply  to  Mr;  Thornton  of  Old  Swm, 

coSrtnMtion'  mi?to«^ft^ht  JJ'T'J  »""<«'•  Roberbon'. 
T«nh«r.  ?™™«  '"«■  fcer  u  London,  tin  the.aecdnd  of  No- 

Here  ihema  pnl  into  die  handaof  Mr  Fni^ll   ..•_'-..     • 

proviaioS.  '^  "»e  engine  \nth  the  .necewary. complement  of 

The  engine  was  mii^e  by  BraithwartP  «2?»^-:-v        l  • 
-patent  contrivance-  and  thi,  ™Si       u  ^   **^"**'°"»  **"M5  a 
Sat  they  co3d  £'lS«H  1  J^^u  "^^^^  "^"^  "  constructed 
WM  nnu^3^r„£J^f!i^^^  '^**«'  «  «  minute.    Thert 

beUowa,  Md  itwM^of  «Z?^^^  were  kept  in  action  by  ,vr 

of  Whi4  w««  h^L  "-Z'  •  ^^  pre*ure  engine,  the  boilei 

pn^err^  i4te:  whuTdl^Sl^T' T*  '^""^^'^^^g  »  proportion  of 
had  tauirhturtonS«SLf    *«"»"»»  n«ce»«»ries  which  experience  --^ 
tl«»J&nimS?.  "^^ ^'^  "°^««e- as  this,  werej^p^ied  S     " 


■I  . 


/   '. 


* 

^^ 

m 

B,    ^ 


/.   '. 


■■^'^ ♦•.*»«.-  «5^  ^  #*»«"-*~i*<ii|^ 


■■'n^ 


TO  TBS  MMcnc  MEmom^ 


$ 


With  instruments  we  were  well  furnished:  haying  everything 
that  could  be  really  wanted.  Besides  two  chronometers  of  my  own, 
there  was  one  lent  by  Mesftrs.  Parkinson  and  Frodsham,  and  three 
were  entrusted  to  us  by  Mr.  Murray.  I  had  a  transit  instrument 
of  three  feet  radius,  a  theodolite  of  nine  inchie^  i^nd  a -powerful 
telescope  by  Tulley;  with  five  sextants,  two  altitude  instruments, 
four  barometers,  twelve  thermometers,  two  dipping  needles,  and 
several  compasses:  besides  which  H.  M.  Government  lent  me  se- 
veral valuable  instrum<ftits  and  books  which  had  been  used  in  the 
forma*  expeditions. 

_  ^viW  at  length  brought  every  thing  to  a  state  of  forwardness, 
1  signified  ^  my  intentions  Jto  the  Admiralty;  and  soon  afltermade 
the)9  public.  On  this,  ^plications  to  serve  in  the  expedition 
under  me,  came  from  many  quarters,  even  from  officers  of  my. 
own  rank;  some  of  whom  also  offored  to  bear  a  share  in  the  ex- 
penses, m  strong  was  the  interest  whicK  had  been  excited.  They 
were  not  less  numerous  from  men  who  wished,  to  sei^e  t»  sailor^ 
but  my  officers  had  alteady  bmn  chosen,  and  the  list  of  men  was  ^ 
soon  filled  up,  .  '      . 

As  my  second  in  command,  I  had  chosen  my  nephew.  Com- 
mander Ross,  who  had  been  on  every  one  of  the  northom  voyaoes* 
while  my  former  Purser  in  the  Isabella,  Mr.  Thorn,  volanteoed 
as  third;  both  of  these  officers  undertaking,  like  myself,  to  serve 
without  pay;  A  Surgeon,  Mr.' Macdianmd,  was  procured  some 
lime.afterwards. 

Among  {he  petty  officers  were  thiee  mates:  and  our  crew  con- 
sisted of  a  carpenter  and  his  mate,  two  engineers,  three  stokers,  a 
steward,  a  cook,  and  nine  seamen;  the  wuttM  of  the  ship's  comnanv 
wereasfollow:   V  V  — r~v 


John  Ross,  Captain,  R.N.U        - 
James  Cla^k  Ross,  Commander,  ditto. 
William  Thom,  Purser,  ditto. 
,  George  Macdiumid,  Surgeon. 
Thomas  Blanky,  first  Mate.        ,  . " 
Thomas  Abemethy,  second  dittos/ 
(George  Taylor,  third  ditto. 
Chimham  Thomas,  Carpenter. 
Alexander  BruntoH,  first  Engin^URr'  "^ 
Allan  Macinnes,  second  ditto. 
William  Light,  Steward. 
Henry  Eyre,  Cook.    ,  . 

Richard  Wall,  Harpooner. 
J^mes  Curtis,  ditto. 
John.  Park,  Seaman.  ', 

Anthony  Buck,  ditto.  ~7~^^~'^~~"~~ 
John  Wood,  ditto^  •    - 


,--\ 


• 


t.  ■  '^ 


,k^A 


.#*.-■ 


r 


'  0»vid\««od,Seanian. 

RobCTt  Shreeve,  Carpenter'B  Mate. 
.     'Uttes  Maralin,  Armourer. 

Junes  Dixony  Stoker;  T 

^Mge  Baxter,  ditto.  ^ 

Willwn  Hkidy,  ditto,  aftenwda,  in  cooflequence  of  the  loas  of 

^B^iZrrl  ""P^*^**' ** ""«»»  additional^wpewe,  «,  might 
WP|  CoomW  under  whom  ahe  had  formeriir  «Slflri»  #tSl^ 

ft  Wiig  al»  thwght  «q«rfieiit  t»  hav»  •  aeoM 

My  hot  apphcation  was  to  the  ^a»^n*^U^      i! 
.  request  to  fie  considered^JSitaS  i««rif  tSf ^^2??***^^  ^* 
were  readily  granted:  ^aet^T^t^' f?  „^^^^^ 

•cieice;  •ndlClh^^e^lr^S^""'*  ^^"^  P™»*  of  milTSd 


/^' 


TO  TBB  AMCTIO   Mttioirs. 


i 


■m 


-"V  ' 


CHAPTER  II. 


Jj 


Jf^*he  River^JhtttOwk  at  tiit^k  qfManr-^ccidmt  to  the 


Tis 


iV* 


..^Vm  lM9^e  ^ntsr^  of  M^  htving  been  at 

knrth  fixed  on  for  our  dei>«Hure,  I  attendif^  at  ^e  Admlraltv.  and 

took  my  leave:  the  -offieiu  eng»<Mm«>nV>  ^t  x^*a^%m^i-ivL   /i  «. 

Geot^  Cockbura  not.permittii: 

ship,  ac  had  been  intended.    Amving  at  woi 

cdfent  friend  Sir  Byam^Martin,  Comptrolhs^df.the  NavyL  and  Sir 

John  PrankUn,  on  6oard;  and  we  we!t»  afterwaitb  hono3d  bv  ^e 

^  *e(then)  Duke  of  Chartmand  a  numdroiu  suited        1  ■*^™" 
If  the  inqieotion  of  th©  arrangements  was  a  source  of  snkification 
toour  viziers,  my  friend.  weieL  Uttie  satisfi JTmySlfu^^^ 

It  WIS  to  be  a  cause  of  hourly  toiment  and  vexation  to  us  W  manv 
r*'^.'^.5L***«**»  to  tead  Jo  the  abandomnent  of  o^e^f  £LS 

SL^^^."*!"!*"*  waduetofour engine makeri    TheT 
been  broucht  by  her  steam  povrer  from  the  upper  part  of  ( 
reach,  to  the  buoy  opposite  to  the  dock;  but  W^nesl 
slow  as  to  promise  nothing  but  disappointment;  v&itTi 
Mrty,  a  ijurt  of  hw  machinery  had  become  dinlaoed,  so  as  i 
additiontd  source  of  dehy.  *       r        >      •" 

oy  ■»  uovernnient,  tocethcr  with  a  spai^  foreyaid  which  bad  been 

SwX^  2ST5'.?P?  Mr.Chimham  Thomas,  Caipente/of  the 
A^ii? Jl^  u^  ^  vohmteeml^  the  f«S?r  on^^Sj 
^,  and  the  latter  but  a  few  hours  before.  Abemethv  SbeeS 
lading  man  on  two  former  expeditions,  and  ThomttW  jSlv!^ 
^^  *;  Bor^  seas,  J^e  both'hS  biS^^l"!^ 

JSfabfe  »^L^  "^"  \'^'^^  *»»«»  two  Wn  aTfoSSl 
AdS.!f&^°*  '^^^/  especiaHy  cau«,  to  be  gratofWtofce 

^SSSS  o^StP"*?^*.^**  h«>d«,me««iner  in  whlS  they  were 
discharged  on  my  application;  leave  of  absence  havine  been  «S^ 
«id  theur  names  placed  on  the  cheque  at  wSteh     *  ^^' 


It 
1 1 


\-y 


i 


T^"  ^: 


I 

r 


I 


8BC0KD  VOTAOB  Of  DIfltiOVXBr 

h/ne?h^  °Inl??'  ™^  «*««rvedly  Esteemed  friend  Mr.  Booth,  with 
tenSnf  ^'^^  ™°'^  genUemen,  came  on  board,  wittrtheia.  " 

o^r  W  thST^'P'T"*  ."'  *°  M"«»*«'  »«d  we  ^ailed^^xTw Si 
Se  wU  t  ^"•^"»t«'-?  in  tow,  after  taking  in  our  gunpowdeT  2 
^ihUrJ^T^'  Captain  Beaufort,  the  A<fmiralty  CSpLr 

&  y^?*!u®''  ™y/o"ner  fiara  or  suspicions  miirht  have  been  th«  ^^ 
fects  of  the  machinery,  now  that  we  wei^  fidrlATbSedonou^ 
jpyage,  began  to  weigh  very  seriously  on  my  ^1^^  I  now  «^^ 
haTaffbSed?'^  "°^  i-pidfectipn  Ln  o^Sr  ^pp^Zn^ 
muf^f^J^i7''''-'''^^'''^^ft    The  boilew iSed  » 

Sren'^e  ^LlJ'^bfwoSbl  O  ''T  "^  '^^^^^  ^^ 
whilp  fh»fr«-i;      *  °|^°™e«  by  hand,  was  kept  constantly  goinir* 

ZSl  evfrlTiJ**'  Kecessary  to  compensate  that  loss  cou&^t^ 
K/aI™      J^^P^**/**^*^***"**-    It  was  moreover  imwLi^ 

to'T^^BTt^  '^end  v^ls,  we  discharged  ouTpIlotVd  plSSS 
JO  sea.  But  as  the  wind  increased,  and  with  it  the  swell  wT!^ 
had  Uie  mortification  of  finding,  thit  in  aSSon  to  the  evhrofTJj 
vexatious  machinery^the  ship  was  so  leaky  as  to  r^uire  Uie  cons3- 
use  of  two  pumps:  though  fhoped  that  tSs  w^^Zve  bu W  ■ 
Efn    T'^^^r^^^  ^  ''''^  ^fi^ts  are  very  apt  to  foHow  £      ^  ' 

SrT    ^^^\  *°^  *^***  "'^^"^"y  occurred  in  L  IsaSla  on  a 
tormer  occasion,  and  moreover,  to  such  a  de^  in  the  Trin*  AaJ 


\ 
-7SC  I. 


I 


TO  TBI  ABCTIO  RiaiONfl. 

85M.    The  wind  however  continuing  fair,  it  was  soile  r/>n 
wlation  tp  find  that  our  ve«el  sailed,  w?th  thi  Win^l.^^  J^^U 
UBMy  ship  in  company;  add  in  the  mofnimr  we  were  c^  Htol 
head,  with  Ae  winH^NE,  and  comparaSyTl^r^aT^hJjh 
accompanied  us  m  our  passage  of  the  Isle  of  Wight  the  saEie  «vin 
ing..   At  midnight,  l^in.  oAhe  Bill  of  PorUanfuie  wifcd  ^L" 
had  increased  so  much,  t&at  we  ran  some  risk  of  losingiS^KnW 
-tern,  m  consequence  of  her  being  driven  i^nst  the  quXrd^rTn^" 
ZA'^V"  ^"  d«*««t»W«  Race,  while  rwere  endX^^^^^ 
secure  her  by  anoth^  rope.    26M..  In  the  following  evXTK 

^  The  wind  continuing  in  flie  same  quarter,  but  being  W"mode, 
rate,  we  passed  close  to  the  Lizard,  deared  the  RundleCa  liS 
brfore  daybreak,  (27/A,)  and  hauled  Up  for  the  LoTshios    the 

rved^'°fh"°^*^**y'*«»^"''^"'^     tEL  last  days  ten  em!    , 
ployed  by  the  engineer  in  examining  the  machinety,  arid  it  was  An. 

^Sf.-^'  *'  °^  "^l  ^^^  ^^^^'^^  the^toTi^Tn^ 
starboard  side  was  «o  much  worn,  as  to  require  a  pie^  tol^  Seized 
to  1^  to  restore  Us  thickness,  while  the  connecting  k^s  of  ttieS 
shaft  weraalso  found,to  be  loose.  It  was  plain  thatltii^  SpS 
were^or  ought  to  have  b^  known  to  the  mLtt&TwK 

negiigenlfe  I*  not  supplying  spare  keys  or  any  mode%  remedvinff 

x?^j-  ^  opimon  niost  unjustifiable.  T  ^ 

*reeimle.wbe^„g™i„rt.rt«dy  foul  Wind.   xKSnTSi^J 
and  as  the  wind  had  shifted  to  the  EN  V.  ho«>»  tJTL  i^  "*'""«™*> 

the  kejr,,<rf  the  m^a  riuft  becoming  Ioom;  andTuie  3Cth  U  J 
A.ii.,thopnnMpaoneonthert»b5ttd  sidebrokt  m  LX'„H.t 

STci^i^.™  .^T'  'f  '^'  ""'  a»"  taini  none  on  Iwd 

By  our  observations  we  now  found  thafw^  haH  .i«{„«j  ♦„     / 
JM»»«le,  ftow  whKh  m  procured  .  «ppiy  of  fid,,    fi  fti,^ 


■T^" 


V  ■■  ■■         'i;^  . 


♦ 

-V?- 


■'^^k.*' 


8 


MOOITD  VOrAOB  Oy  DtSOOVtKT 


J 


W^  it  haabeean^ae 

mfS:r,'L'?rwT^^^^^^  the  we.ther 

but  each  of  them  brokW  Xr  -hi  ♦      u  ®"?i"®  •«"»  «'  <»  work; 

obliged  to  give  up  orh±^SS^irh^°"^         ~  *^*t  ^  ^ 

attempts  at  repa&nir  the^Jii?™  ^"^  expedients,  with  aU  furthef 

dentl/of  thi«,'\hr,SrformIicrof  L''«^^^^  "'"•*^°''-    I-depeSl 

torv.    Even  with  a  p,W^  of  foL^S    "«"*'  "T"  "»<»t  unsatiiSo- 

could  „ever  obtain  m^tTan  fi^rS^.P^r'^.r'*  *«  «ch,  we 

It  thence  followed,  that  throuter  SSiS^J^  ^^^^  "'»"*«;  ^d  •» 

vetocity  than  five  milea  inX  h7u?l2T»1f*«' »"«!  "»  8^ter 

poMibljr  exceed  three.    The  boiimiJr      £  ^7"^^  could  not 

-W  put  dung  and  poutJ^  i?tht:,C4"1jS:.l^^'!i^^^^ 
oon.    The  men  were  moraovAi.  •»  fZ-*  "i /**'•  '^nekaon'a  dire©. 

•t  the  extra  pump,  Z^^ZwoISS'^-^'^  "^'^  ^^ 
?et  it  wrouglrt  from  the  tewHLf  ♦£?  Y"^*  **' '  «°««ved  to    ' 

•ttemptsT^^^dyLe^"^^^  °"'  «H*riy  lirultle^fc 

duct  0?  X7p^  Sl:sLS«^  k  ^^  ^j'«"<»»^bte  2Si 


j^„  "  '^'^  ""  WMB  iwiecuve,  inasmufi 


'// 


auppjy  the  boiler,  we  aiaconneeted  fh«  wf^U    *^ -««.»«.hi  w 

latter,  which  we  proceeded  te^i^^-     "PP««»t«M»  except  th6 

•team  fcom  the  eCTSM  C?SjLi^  ^'^'*'  ""^  *»*'*»8 1^  Se 

^  P^engine  in  mS;  Ld^u^uJ'^'^*^''  ^P^  ^^^^ 

h«Ten  pounda  on  the  inS   SnS  "*"?  °^  '  P"*""**  ^ 

,  kea  in  the  minute;  beine  wi  Zi°5l  *  T«^*»"»?^  "^  «xteen 

r^pawtui  was  in  iictio'n.    Tt*Wth^?2.S^  I?!"  ^  «»denaing 

««ted,  partly  in  thia  part  of  tte  ^£^  ti»t  power  had  beeS 

the  vacuum  wimn'^  but^h.^^-    contrivance,  and  partly  thrwirii 

«averiae.  ^      "^  r""  ^'^  ««**  ^o*  of  water  to  whicK 

-*iSof:£S;^&  we  next  tried  the 

^  the  small  one  waa  quSBinSkSJ/T    *M  *  ?*^  "«*  '"^  "»d 
heat:  whileit  waa  nowdao  ihST^^?K  "*^  r^mBite^ 

*o  tiireaten  to  becom^Cy  u^/e^fn t'^  ''"^  '^^^S?  "V  *» 
in  fact  was  imnerfe*^.  -1^«I  uaeiesa  m  no  long  time.    E^nr  thine 

perform  Se  Z^l^^JT  ^  *'y"'»'*««  ^e**  too  Zm£ 

from  the  L^"i  of"^";"  rS  t.i'l!?^  litS  toXSt 
^one,  acaroely  move  o«r^X"tS;i^t5Ut'S^^'^^^ 


K  .-  ^  -^ 


^' 


:'"ipR  ^ 


4 

TO  THB   Aa€TIO  BBOIOHS. 


af 


therefore  utterly  inadequate  to  aid  us  in  taking  in  totv  our  conaort 
the  John,  aa  had  been  contemplated  in  planning  this  expediUoTor 
could  not  at  leaat  have  towed  W  faster  than  her  own  bJS! 

in  blaming  the  execuUon  and  workmanship  of  this  enirine.  I 
must  however  dd  justice  to  the  principle,  which  was  judicS  aid 
under  a  careful  exeoution,  might  have  rendered  this  mSery  of 
great  serv.ce  to  us  on  many  of  the  occasions  which  occurred  row- 
voyage.    The  diminutions  of  weight,  and  the  removal  of  inwnZ 

Xrt;r"!?H''^?ir  *''"'"'*^°  ^'^  funnel,  constituted.  mS 
Jdvantage;  and  a  still  greater  one  was  the  reduced  consumntion^ 
fue  involved  in  the  plan  of  this  n'ewlv  contrived  en»^™PL-I 
white  the  Dlan  of  liftiL  the  paddles  out  of  tEf^lrllnd  tkus  c^ 

SnJeVe  wLni.wJ?  ""f  ^""'y  ««««^t.  even  to  superfluity; 
since  we  wcTQ  enabled  to  take  away  the  oountcrDoiaes  and  *inrf« 
rods,  wid  thus  to  diminish  both  the  weight  and  2^  SJuble  ^ 

•haft,  succeeded  perfectiy:  but  findins  that  the  «>iimu>*.  ^  !k! 
lower  deek  woulcfnot  let  out  the  Zter  frem  5..?^"^?V"  ^ 

r-v^/eri^crr'"**"^^  '^"^  "^^  ^^^^  *»  the^Spper^wWcS 

now  say,  bein(perfecUyUlessrwe^;ere  ^^^ 

SiSn?*'^ '"*"?'  ''^  ^^  **  mortification  to  fin?  nit  o^lH 
rteadily  adverse  breeze,  but  that  we  were  beaten  by  every  v«Lt 
that  w«  saw,  so  ill  did  we  sail  upon  •  wind.  W  Se  SL 

June,  we  saw  the  8mm*a  light,  found  ourselxMuiiff  Wieklntir  XI 
^Tu"^' ."?  ^  *^  *^^^  **  *^«"  blowi^fi5.^:S£rtS 
Sfi^^n^^L""''*^*"^^^ 

^•n'^  ^  *"*  "o^'ng  we  came  to  wehor  in  DouKlas  bsv-  wl.«« 
rtUldesireus  to  make  wiother  attempt  with  Z  enXf  Ih^^ 

SSfSSr  "f*^':"!?*^  «  to  cSstruct  two  Z  keyaX'S 
•haft }  wnting  also  to  London  and  to  Liverpool  for  a  supofv  «f  othJr 
-pai^ones,  in  case  we  should  at  all  sueS^in  car^fKs  Sa 
chinery  further  on  our  destination.  We  were  heredetoinSf  Ji« 
days,  yet  losing  nothing  bytiie  dejetitkm;  »in^7t  btewa  st^ 
from  die  north-west  the  whole  time^rhile 'we  were  Zs  ds?T 
^^«^h'S  ^T^yf  ^^>  vegetables,  and  water.  ^  T 

^  Aswe  had  had  good  opportunities  of  ohiervin«  theefBm-irAf 
our  rigging  during  our  p«Sge,  we  found  tbatTJ?DrS^nt^SS^5 
^managing  Ae  after  «uls%dmitted  of ^L Trn'S^eL^^fl 

therefore  purehased  some  spars,  together  with  »m"^^te  .^ 
place  the  «quM«  swl,  whieJ^e  haSlost  during  Z  Tv^-lL!!: 
^  «oe,v«^^e  vi«t^^ma«y  friends,  J^S^XSo,^ 


i--e  ■■ 


^! 


wsi* 


10 


8XC0ND  VOYA«X  OF  OncOVSKy 


y 


» 


!#■•■""": 


^  which  ^cor^T^^^^ir^  Z^/^'-f  *°«^°^^«^*^«'' 
morning  J  enabfine  wto  wSJh  5  u**^  '^''?  °"  *«  foUowing 

breeze  Urn  SSiSZ^^.TnJ^':^^'^^  "V^  o'clock,  with  f 
but,  the  wSd  4°ngS: ma^  ifiSr^  ^""^  ^^^  ^'^^  °f  Mannj 
en^e  ..  we  hS  "S^^'Jf '^^^^  ^orldng  the' 

appmhw.  YeVeven  CSicSed^^n^r-  ^  cond«^ng 
strokes  in  the  minute,  and  tiBH^hK  °'»*"'"ng  only  fiReen 
pairawhiktheTSwiaTZl  ilK^"*^**"*  ^ 

'»  which  W^^™.S^£Sd'^,S''X''"'™'^'^ 
fixind  «Mt  we  could  eaalr  SfcSi«,;^  f  ^^™'.  "*  "•" 
a.t  we  could  th„.  bTS  ^w^^^^^J'^*5™^'?'l 

auring  the  haS  rtrS^^  S  ^®  t^^'  '^  *^*  ^^  ^»  cn««hed, 
hibiti.  %ie  Sne  W?«  aoul^^  manner  which  it  now  el-' 
'muscle- and  81^ wSVdl^„SarS\''  ^""^t^^^d  the 
acarcely  held  to«ethM^««!^,M  L  v*^*  '"^^  P*^  "^  t^e  limb 
thatitdemandT^itaZTi..^"°^^^^  »«  determining 
gicAl  reading  had^tt^'rl "  ^.  ■»  n»y  opportunities.Df  sur? 
for,ni.n^S^oX5on  U^^^^^^^  ,''"'"  °"«ht  to  be  lost  'in  J2^ 
mid  h3  not  jTm  us:  be^^^^iJ:  T.f'TP"'  ^'-  M^lSr- 
?onsort;  so  ^IriSaSS  myVt^^o^^^^^ 

ItwasweU  that  fc^mTlloJ^TL^n^^^ 


f 


It 


,;  ■;.  '^'  to  TBI  AioTic  nmototn.  '^  '^■ 

together  with  thelnedicine  che^t;  and  a  berth  having  been  imi 
for  our  unlucky  patient,  I  have  only  to  say  that  Idid.  a« 
1  could,  what  seemed  necessary,  as  far  as  ray  want  of 
enabled  me  to  do  it;  applying  the  tourniquet  first,  ana  ' 
with  the  tenaculum  and  lisatures,  the  only  two  arf 
couM^pd,  while  I  cut  off  the  injured  muscles  and  u 
a  way^^I  hoped  sufficient  to  remove  the  dead  and 
parts,  andHo  leave  material  for  producing  a  decent  stu 
tortunatel^,  the  amputation  saw  was  not  to  be  founA  so^ 
was  not  onlyunable  to  remove  as  much  of  the -bone  as  I  ooHifc^ 
JSlTtHPf*^  ^  ^^^^  th^bwken  enmity  in  a  sph^S^ 
8tatej.to  the  further  care  of  tl^e  surgeon  whom  I  wmecteTto  S 

this  case,  I  may  now  add,  that  as  we  reached  the  l^nd  so  asTpS 
our^pabent  under  proper  surgical  care  before  any  materS-?n. 
flammation  had  occurred,  that  which  I  cBSId  not  finish  was  com 
pleted  without  difficulty;  so  as  to' leave,  in  the  end,  I  ^uZ 
which,  though  not  such  as  to  have  done  much  credit  to  a  aZSL' 

has  not  finally  prevented  this  mutilated  engineer  from  retorSjito 
his^ongimd  employment  in  the  establishment  whence  v^  jjSd 

.  '^i°«*^'«»tf«3;*at  I  should  have  been  much  mow  it  mv  ease  ^^^ 
in  cutting  iwayhak  a  do«n  masts  in  a  gale  than  in  Sua  «"LS 

the  effect  whidi  this  occurrence,  vexatious  and  painful  as  it^  to 
me,  produced  on  the  men.  The  arrangements  oriie  mSicaUbeS 
and  instruments,  the  neatness  of  eve^thin*  and  the^nZS 
o^'e  auply,  with,  I W,  the  furth^conwL^^^ 

good  wiU  to  be  rendered  more  efectual  as  soon  tTttMnnZl 

that  nothing  which  could  conduce  to  their  comfort  had  been^ 
riected:  as,  k  this  feeling,¥found  an  ample  eonfiSia^n^  wK^ 
Ihad  lonr  before  read  in  fife  work  of  ffonsieur  Lairev  rwrneS 
mg  the  efect  of  his  exceUent  medicdlrnmgem^t-^Se^i 
of  the  farsighted  wtdier  under  whom  his  sy<rtem  was  organizS^*^ 
Anxious  as  we  were  for  our  progress,  we  were  now  wermore 
impatient  on  account  of  our  ungrtunate  patient;  mH  we  ^m 

a!*  ^J^V  u^J**  ^^^^  ''^^-  8'*-  We  thus  calcufatS 
Si  JS  *««W  make  Port togan,*^  about  nine  miles  off,^fore 
the  end  of  the  tide;  but  at  noon  all  our  hopes  were  destroyed  bv 

SSSr..Z,f  1^  ^'^  they  gave  way  With  a  loud  crash,  so  that    ^ 
lugn,  we  hoped  thaf  this  failure  would  not  have  much  effect  it  »»>. 


-—-Sw-- 


!3r 


'*)!!''"'*<«M 


Itt 


4- 


SSCOiro  TOTAOB  OV  OIBCOVKRT 


Sf  J^^"^  "'  "^ -f '*^°"'  obrtruction,  and  evil.  ^  «^ 
Ad^ndeed  i»ove  quite  accurate;  but  aom6  of  the  joints/^^ 

and  mth  such  efiect,  that  in  ten  mlmitea  Sie  fire  was  extinj 
and  the  (!n|ine  stopped.  ^  ^  " 

fli^r/'^^®'^^  *'**"'*•*  had  changed  against  us;  and  as 
SLT    "^  ^°'^*  ^"""^  TBm^ned  no  pixM^t  of  gaining  efi»2 

'  STi^ii  tSf  i'^'5''^  r^ll***^  *°^^^^  ''^^  W-h  shore,  in 
hopes  that  the  wind  would  shift  more  to  the  westward.    These 

J?!!J""''!f2'°""t*^'^t  "^  ^«  »'»'*  the  furtherSo;tificatiS 
of  seeing  all  Ae  vessels  which  we  had  passed,  repass  us:  mT  to 

con^nce u« of  the  necessity  of  improvinioriwn'M^lingq^ 

nf ?i!f*i.?L**'  morning  we  contrived,  to  fetch  within  four  miles 
l^.t^PT^^'^  **•*"  ^"K  m  our  favour,  reached  PoroS!       . 
SonA  S  1  °*^  *  fu  **•»  ''"^"*"'  '^**«'  »*  the  «°d  of  the  pier, 
tho^  It  was  now  thmsquarters  ebb.    This,  formerly  caUed  fort 

^i?5o1^AT",f  rxP'"'  harbour, consiucled  atie 
SST.  Jf.  -S?  *i^  M'Booall,  of  LoBui,  on  the  south  side  of  a  spa. 
«2**fy' "*«?*«*  »>ne™J««  north  0?  the  M«U  of  Gallowav.    It^ 

«»b*y,«wd  1^  the  watchhoose  and  flagstaff  on  that  to  the  south. 

fornung  the  stiition  of  the  coastguard  at  this  place.    There  isTod 

ho^g.gtOHiid  in^  the  bay;  ^d  ships  may  choose  tlSTd^^^ 

M^  since  rtihojdsfrem  thirty  to  tSreefakms.    liTZreto 

^^I^^^^^k'*?  u"**"  *°  ^^  north-west  winds.  It  is  a  i^TX 

vwitage  here,  that  ships  can  run  for  the  pier,  though  at  hSftide  • 

sim»,  even  at  low  water,  it  ha.  seven  4»t,  a^,  in  Z  former  Ze' 

tij^«re  fourteen,  which  at  spring  tideVis  i^cre«ieJ  TSa^l 

^Zi:  "'»^"fr"»  ««*««"&  as  eveiy  thing  is  visible ;  anlwX 

S?dS^.?!?^"&i""JJ»  °^»ht  hours, on  the  Sorth  side, i  vessd  hS 

nod^culty  in  MUn^t    This  is  decidedly  the  be^t  lirtourTf 

ISSjS^Tf .tef**  '^^  *"»  ***'-l»rt  «^the  coast;  deriS^L_ 
oZS^  t\.^Z^  pn««mity  of  thTlighthouse  on  the  MuST^ 
JdSdrX  i        **^  computed  that  a  brealwater  might  be  erected 
'  SJmL  •!    T.'£^ "  '''''?'^  '^^  ^'«<^'  5  «nd  -houlJ  this  ever  be 
'bo^r.l^liSlL':^^ 

Before  entering  the  pier,  we  were  boarded  by  Mr.  Harvev.  the 
offi^of  the  coa-teuard,  with  an  offer  of  his  services;  aTJ*wM 

olr^P^^"'  *°  my  hou«»  at  Stranraer,  where  he  was  put  undertS  ^ 
a^^f  RrtZ"S?^"'Jf^^?"-'"»^'  and  that  orMr.w!l^-- 
tTlJuS:  if'  '^ho  completed  the  operation  which  Lwas  obliged 
to  leave  imperfect,  w^  attended  him  kindly  to  a  cure.    I  must  mt 


=»f= 


319" 


I  mi 


inHer 


.iir*^  ^"il  *®  'S?^  f  thii  spirited  fellow,  aeanum  thouxh  he 
%^  not,  Without  adding,  that  while  he  found  Us  wiy  upWtw^ 
l«ide«of^  enriiH,  room  without  help,  and  made  no^ipWi^^t 
any  tame,  the  oiJy  it«»t  he  esprtased  waa,  that  he  ahould^now 
notbed,e^go«nthe«pedition."  I  nright  weU  W,  „y°^J 
being  obhgfed  to  feave  behind  such  a  man  aathia.  '«™'»'°y»e"r 
Ha^  foUovrod  Hardy  to  my  house,  that  I  might  see  him  nro- 

periy  dii|K>sed  of  I  sent  for  ]VIr.  Thorn,  to  whom  Kad^onfiL^^ 
mjn.^«.t  of  Ae  John;  when  I  had  the  vexation  to  ^&Z 
tam,that  her  officers  and  men  were  in  a  state  approaching  to  mu- 
tiny. Tabng  advantage  of  our  delay  in  going  on  bSard.  it  wmJTh 
^2^  see  in  the  lo3s  of  the  x,ffiLrs  Vn^nXtMr'^^L 
Sf\^  fejr  unwillingness  to  go  on  this  expedition  was  but  too 
true;  the  latter  appearing  disorderly  and  dirty,  m  they  skulked  and 

^^1;^"'  **,*^'I-  ^'i'*«i«g  it  therefo^'nec^T^e  t^ 
an  immediate  explanation,  I  went  on  board  the  John,  and  order^ 

S»*dSi^i^"^  It^enex^essedmyrcgrelatCdin^ 
was  diaaatidaetion  among  thfcm;  but  as  I  dai*d%ot  suniiose  tlurtS 
P«ce^  fi^f^,  I  t^stad  that  a  little  e«J^^^^ 

^^ding.  Having  myselfsaUed  from  Gi«enock,  I  had 
♦?''°!L?1?  '*°"1**  ?*^  '^^  ™«  ^  ^ono^tB  and 
W  ♦ilT^^^!i  '^^  u^  the  advantages  there  could  be 
whJnh  f  uJTa  Sf  J^owledge  which  I  possessed  and  the  plans 
which  I  had  adopted.  It  was  true,  that  the^eason  miirht  aowirto  > 
them  somewhat  advanced;  but  independently  of  Se^KanteS^S 
:?S5,^TtS.t*  ^U^' '  knewrwell  Jher«  to  SJXSi;" 

l^U^!^-    T'^^  "^^  "**  'J""**""  ^^  «"r  "«««^  «nd  that  ^ 
should  noj,  m  the  end,  pi»ve  a  day  too  late.    I  thei^re  exm^  ' 

I^"'?** *?*^ '^°"***  '^t"™  to t'H'i' duties, andnrt D^SIn 

:^t^^;^ZT^'  bringdisgi^hoinrSlS 

nifi^l?"!"'  t  P*"?  ^-    P^'  '^^^^  "^  «>•»«  interehange  Of  si#-* 
n^cant  looks  and  whisperings  between  the  mates  and  tWW 

boatswMn  stepped  forward,  and  afW  caHing  on  soiToS^^iSn 
h^,  obsenreithat  as  the  se«»n  was  so  fcTadvanoelSe^C 
willing  to  eo  without  a  fresh  agreement;  a  resolution  j7wJ^S  k 


«»» 


f 


14 


"■  ■  ■  •■■■ '       - 

SECOOT)  VOTAOB  Of  DttCOVSay 


j 

ml 

^m 

m 

J                 •    .        ■ 

m" 

•   . 

P '' ' 

•    N    "  ■- 

P-"  :■ 

• 

u ' 


v,.\; 


\ 


4 


.      KI  w«  soon  convin^^J  Sf  t«°*^  '^^°"'*  the  aun^er, 
thfe,«iiceit  w«8  iny^t}^i       *  fears  were  even  deepwMftan. 

^^OM,  had  I  intended^o  k^5S!S  "ir*^  ""^^ "^  monSB'W 
fee  the  poaaibUity  o/^h  M  L^f^  S-^S^f'  *?'  «^«  ^id  I  fe 

Victorjrat  Port  Lo^^  m^h  ia^°l*°'I^^  »t»y  of  S 
we  ahould  join,  anfSey  ^m£^3  ^^  ^  hoped  tlit  when 
ari»Migfrom  the  preaSE  rfTi.2^  ^  eomprehend  tKTadvantw* 

oerouT  ag^pement  ^  woiua  retm;^  trf  their  duties  un- 

^  «»Sr:i^J:^t^^  ^" -^^o»  of  time;  and  the 
boiler,  together  wZfc^/SS  ?  ^""l?*  ^^^^  "^^ 
which,  it  was  now  evideSl  eWSL^?"^®^  *°'  *^"^°8  *h«  ice; 
worL.  We  thus  got  rid  oSi^r^^en^^^^^  ** ^ »«*°o  ti 

lumber;  replacing  it  bv  thr^  W-^r  ?°'  o^what  was,noW  mere 
(I^I  wis,  visi'U  by  WfrW?  i  T^'i'J^^  ^^  foMoWing  ^ 
byotherti,rei.tioMi,7S.no;S?r'  ^'Douall, «5oompLii 
«t«nti«l  present  to  CoiTo^nZchJ^JT^^'^'^  "- withoutVaub- 
oneof  the  best  Gallo3^Se f™if tS*""" *^^^^  shape oC 

evening  we  cart  off  JJ^XJ^^^J  ^^^.1?*^    ''^'  "^  ^  *^ 
«««rtguard,  #ere  towed  roimd  £f i,S?t  «??^  ****  assistance  of  the 
from  the  B6itth,eaW.    AteS S f^«i  °^  ^#"'  ""''^^  •  ««ht  air 
Mop  the  tidSff  Port  KLe^Hi      «Jm»i»nJ  we  were  obl^  to 

the  north-east,  we  weH^aU JT^iJiS  ^  '^'^i?  ««ht  Wze  ifrom 

.we«  again.compelled  to  sC  fte  bS  ?^T^  ^^^  «o  that  we  : 
These  delays  allow^ufMS?^*®'*^o,manner. 

.damage  alreJyrS^^^^  ' 

when  we  found  that  the  faaur^SS^^^M^S*^.^"  T"  boUers,  . 
iron  cement  which  had  beeA  ,,IL^     "^.  *'"'®*y  "»  that  of  the 
while  the  eflgineerl2dneSrhS„°r""5«f"o  of  thejbints; 

wWi.the  maSnWfoJSSSL^lf^^f^oftW^  norpiivided 
heUows,  with  the  toach^Cbdonriit  f?'!  ""^  ^^'    "^^^  ««»*« 
thorough  impair,  as  Wffi^T^Sr*  ^  '^^  '^  also  in  need  of  a 
be  exc*used'fo,;n"d^ling  o^tfTenaTT  ^T^^'  ^»'  '  "»"»t 
at  present,  further  thrto*XSS^e^err^P"^^^°i5'«»»^^    ' 
more  that  we  must  consiaTiuradi^  Z  ?.f^  convmceJ*  us  itiU      ' 
our  saUs,  for  s^ch  P'-fiaS^iinit^.Tli  i   "^""^^  as  dependent  on     . 
make. .  '      ^iP^  '^our  good  fortune  to 

b^,asitf«c.m,C^tX^mJ5:^e»^^^^  • 


-JSL. 


...»-. 


-^;:*«-- 


iro  TBJB  ABOno  UOI^ 


15 


jiBg (12M), when, favoured  bv the  breeze  and aflowinc  tide^ we 
«tf  j^ng^ide  the  John,  living  taiea  M..  Thorn  onCie  5^! 
.    ing  before,  on  making  the  Loch.  ^  V  .      ,       "*"'»»«« 

The  Victpjy  beins  now  idongside  of  the^  John,  tod  her  cr^w 
nuiged  on  the  deck,  f  again  went  on  board.    WCthe  Wa  ^ 
called,.!  exi^ined  at  conaidei^ble  length  the  a4yaSa^S  w3 
obta,n,and  that  laid  not  entertain  anintention  of  k^g  E^t 
tiJ!^^  '^^  ^"'  -eeing  that  aU  I  said  waa  wiSout  e^L  I 
l^TTlf  ?  r^  "^'''  bylemarking  that  such  coward^  the    • 
men  of  Ae  John  were  not  ^orthy  to  accompany  auch  nUant  ffel- 
lowa  aa.themaelvea,  eyen  to  the  edge  of  the™^  Yet  mUwm  Z>     ' 
S«?^  tikat  I  ahould  prove  a  positive  act  of  dl«)b^^^"  "£  - 
Mred  Mr.  Comb,  the  maater,  to  order  his  crew  to  aarirt  ouH  in  rT      '  ' 
moving  the  ^ke.  Thia  wiaWuaed  at  once  by  Sb^X^S^       " 
aanietmiecdied  en  those  of  the  Victory  to  i4ith^i^\«tt^^        :. 
upforaean^en'«,ri^ht.,-«itheye,p,e^T?^r^^^^ 

which  I  r^ed  pn  hoard,  and  a(br  pndaing  theiS  as  Aev^     ' 
merited,  both  for  this  and  aU  their  other  irood  coSuS.  n^J3    -  ^ 
^  we  should  «ul.  by  ourselves,  and  leai^th^w^yt^nS         < 
own  proweding*    fhia  proposal  Was  received  with  ^reTcW        ^ 
entirely  d«concerting  the  mutine«h,  who  had  beS^lS  I S        - 

4  tSt JXT"*""'  "^'  "^  "^^  ""^  *^^^  ^ 

^^ was  still  necessary,  however,  <hat  I  should  muster  the  John's*  *  *^ 

^^Z.^a'^'^T^u'^^  ^"^"°»'  °f  ^^  individuairiid  ttil 
^^S  ^^°°l?^*?^  master,  at  my^instapce.    It  cimmen^  ^ 
IS.^1.^  "^**''.  W"^h«»*»  .^ho  d^ared  that  he  wiuld  nS  I"    . 
t^JS^t^TT^'^l^r^  «°  "i ^^  voyage,  wShou?  aZ«nSL  N '  V 
S if®S?" r  ft? f  ? ^ inm^ediawretvrtt'of: (be ship: a SeSmenf  • 
«™n5sMtwhichI.wasexoiedingJy'surprit»ed,tohew2toe»^       ' 
..  rfti^  worthy  conmiander  6f  the  lXs  Xl^'£«^^^^ 
formerly  received  both  kihdnesttnd  services.    The  Zi^^^nfH^ 

the  master  waa  kept  ,p  awe  by  thete  two  men.    ThebdatowSiSd      ' 
.  thehM^nert  being  nextasked  if  they  would  aasirtinwS 
Sl^^■'.°^l•""^"^?«,whUe^me'^dded^to^^  .    ' 

.  Sf xj^th^^jsrrfe^^^^^^ 

^T  n.^?  "^  repentance  for  his  coi^di^t,  I  could  not'^te    '' 

quittSra^ZS^  tS  1^^  d«pfe  the  men  6f  the  means  of  " 

lem^?dJSt^j°°  T?^,?:^"^this  done,  than  several  of     .    • 
cm  were  taten  possession  of  by  the  mutineers,  who  a^  the  same 


■•^.    , 


* 


•v:--j       \\ 


xP    •' 


I-  \-  '  IB  - 


*   i 


vm.'^*.:.*^ 


,« 


'/ 


.      t 


!      /. 


'    .'     ., 


I 


16  < 


»i» 


il  ■''■/■■■■;' 


•  ''*°°"»  ^^^»  w  Piicoviiir 


reproaches  of.  the  coward ^d„^ ^7'"  ^"^^ andSSS 
..        collated  to  witoe«  ST^LT  n  ^"^  <»Pe<?tato«  wh«r^ 

officers,  and  the  a^prentiw,,^"'^^^ 

fwiffles  two  boat,  had  E  .Ji!?      ?"'    '»  t**®  courae  of  thwe 
V.i*M.|M„oh>ear^  had  fallen  ovS! 

,  ThM  drama  having  thus  termin.L    •  ^i^^^  ■"■**»ned. 
—  duce  four  of  the  VijWs  mer?^^  ?^?*.*°*'^^^^      """mpt  to  iei 

make  a.tegal  cdl  oi  the  master  te!Zr      ^u*  *'  "^^aiMd  for  me  to 
him,  written  oixIerto«uTS?l!^&"  J"  <»Pti«ct,  and  tolww 

Aw^over  to  the  agent^r.  OughterLT^t  Lf^'^*' ^"^^ 

^e  to  wnto  an  account  of  theie  nm-Li-    ^^*S?  »»«»«My  «!»  for 

I  added  UrtteM  on  thlsim^f^^''lP^^''^^^^ 

£?^^ 

fcdge,  after  my  ifetarn  from  &2w  !?"^^°^y  «V«e  *«  myfaiow- 
f  may  prove,  to  those  X  i^  bu?^«:^'?"«»*^  WhawX 
justice  which  it  becomJSj  ^^.^f  to  pwnoffn^  on  JS 
toon,  It  served  to  satisfv us  thS-?k  j  ?*»*"hute,  even  in  inuurina- 
«f  our  intended  coSS^^in^d'iS^  i:^»«^  "othingby 

ttjp th«e which  ultiSly  b^u.'^^r- '^'^  **  gt^atorevS 
J^hwh  u,  our  ahort8igh<^2»^2;^^?""  *^*^*'  Uie  events 
«ite»  mtended  as  ble^^^^  "^^  •"  **  "P*,  to  view  as  evil.,  are  fun 

rJ^^!!^^^^  *1^^»'  under  th^^me 

«^on.,  saHed  to  B^T^  'T^  'Ti'.  '«^°8  °ne  O'  tw™ 
jauses  which  have  JeZJZ  to  1?^^'"«  expedition.    From 
*«ard,  attended  by  thed^thrf  Sjl^g^  A  "f?^  took  pla^  on 
«tanoeg  ^i^  We  not  yS  h^  SSSi    °?*i'  ^^  u»der  dreum- 
««lerstand.    The  mate,  wk  a  l3i  ^  explained,  as  far  as  I  can 
fame  timej  tad  havin*  n!!^  ;      "u"  «"'«'>'^ere  expelled  atOe 
have perishedS 2l  ?1  ^'"T  ^  heonl  of, «?.uppo^  ^ 
of  the  Spikesoneer,  CafS^A  5*'*  P?*  "«*«'  the  J^SuS 
most  of  the  crew  w^aT^Y^'^J'^  ^  the  we*m  coast  when 
^-whicHL^^S^  hein^^^ 


J -I* 


TO  TH>  ABCTIC  BKOIOITB. 


17 


CHAPTER  III. 


i#f'< 


i^ZocAf  JJi^on-Gflfe  ^  Wind  off  Mla^  and  Loss  of  the 

hj  mutinous  crew,  I  returned  on  board  fie  Vietoiy,  wh«re  tte 
^?'jr?u*'*^"P**^  ***  removing  the  coke  and  aome  other  rtoreB 
jAjch  had  been  entairted  to  the  John  as  our  consort  and  stoiSS 
^occupied  the  best  partof  the  following  day;  and,  at  six  k^Z  . 
ewnmg,  all  bemg  ready,  I  cast  off  and  stood  to  sea  wi£\  liSt 
breeze  from  &e  south-west;  having  takei^  leave  of  aU  our  friends  on 

H^iJ^"!-— ^  TP^.?°«  *^*  ^"'"^  management  of  our  patient 
Hardy;  receiving  the  ^eers  pf  Captam  SharM  and  his  men.  whose 
eountenance  «,daid  m  been  of  ^i  servK,  us  duJing  theTT 
bles  of  the  preceding  day.  14/*.  On  the  morning  of  Sundav  it  w^ 
calm,  and  it  noon  the  l/uU  of  Cantyreborenorth,VSof  AiS 
beanng  east;  when  a  fresh  breeze  from  the  south-west, ^th  a  ft. 
vourable  tide,  carried  us  rapidly  through  thTnorth  ChanudT 

It  was  at  the  first  moment  that  we  found  oufselves  settled  and 
at  peace  afterjhe  distarbances  of  the  preceding  days,  that  I  took 
SL  ?'?1r;^  of  exprossing  to  my  oficers  «^  ciSj,  the  pS 
tade  1  felt  for  the  support  whioh-all  had  adbided  iie,  aS^ 
decknng  my  entire  confidence  in  them  through  the  fut^  vov- 
S!.kK*^u"^"*'J^'y*  *»'«•»' '»«'*«"Jn^  to  contend  with,  AV  * 
STnilf  *  ?T  lu  ^r^V^  ««i  also  thanking  them  for  the  eon- 

S.J5  nl;  ?rT  ^  the  defection  of  the  John  must  now,;£  th^ 
could  notfaiTto  be  sensible,  aflfect  their  peeuaiary  interostsTainw 

for  wi^;  IJ?**^ '^"***  ^  "^  ^'^^'y  cwried  onV  ouwelves  d^ 
«LT  of  /towage.  As  it  was  theroforo  no  les^  just  than  neces- 
SLS  n?"  «>"l°»«n«»  under  a  right  mutual  undeitanding  on  the 
Si-'S  ♦h  •^•«!!' '  P~E°?J  ^  ^"^  P*y  "^O""  be  setUed^cco^ 
"liL^  %'k?^°«'"H'**'°  doiieirie  former  voyagesTZ: 
Z?^f  ^>J*r"j:§*«»  to  without  Hesitation,  and  w™«ro«s^ 
«^<rf  perfect  safas&ction;  the  sui^eon  leaving  it  to  my^  to 
«wttlt  the  compansstiondufttQ  Mm  od  tills  scorn.*      w  myswiw 


■■;  -^^^^ 


3f 


\  1 


hMI  ' 


-/ 


IS 


«C0«,  V0rA«t«  OF  BMCOWiar 


T''fr^'^''^^^'^r^WwyjZ'^  to  Loch  Hyan  had  itilf 

heavy  BweS^'^j^JS^Jf^^^'^^dor  I^chlin,  than  we  fou„^ 
queiice  of  the  lonf  iLj^^f  ^  north-weat;  the  iv^St^   ' ' 
recently  occurreS^^ThSrattt*'  ^""^  t^*'  quaffSwcJ  k"^ 
•c^n  undeceived,  ainie"S  pri^S  Z**f^  ASf  bJI^^w^^ 
more  severe  than  any  whicK?     f  forerunner  of  a  storm  ^»^ 

their  perifous  place,  and  W  th«  '^°'™*'^  «««  *o  eS^fiL 

find  in  S^alfS,^""*  *"  "«'  **  th"  eXs^^r"*^*'  ^°"- 
-uld  de^^df  ?£J!^!  -P-t  of  sea^S:!"^  ^^^f  ^  ^ 

»«enciesj  ready  ohS^TS^^^T 


«»°ne  hii  meswS^j*®*''  «  «^ry  ttwTdirt.wTl?^^'" 


ouehTC  n       "'«***  ««<*  quite  closed  ;„*k      "'»'»«««««.  ' 

quently  all  set  and  tko  *       ciosea  m,  the  storm  mil.  »? 


'      TO  rum  AMcnc  naaioifa.    1  .19 

Thus  di«J  it  continue  to  blow  on  Monday,  yet  with  wme  Intervals 
wore  moderate;  during  one  of  which  we  vefatured  to  crow  the  ton-  V 
aail  yard  for  a  foreyard,  setting  on  the  reef  topsail  for  a  foresail- 
our  situabon  among  the  islands  of  this  dangerous  coast,  renderinir  it 
necessary  to  set  all  the  sail  possible-  Thus,  although  we,were  Jon" 
atanUy  obh^^ed  to  wear  the  ship  with  great  cautionTin  consequence 
of  our  havmg  the Krusenstern  in  tow,  we  found  that  wekt  least 
kept  our  ground.  At  midnigU  we  split  the  jib;  ai^d  on  searching 
for  the  storm  jib  to  replace  it,  we  found  nothing  but  the  rope;  the      ^ 

£S jSft  thr?^  ^  ■"'  *'^  *°^  ''*°**''  ^^  ^^'^  plunderer,  be&  we 

-^16M.  On  Tuesday  the  ^e  rose  to  its  height,  and  obliiifed  us 

to  he  to  under  the  dlose-reefed  mainsaU;  but  the  wind  having 

veered  conaidCTably  to  the  north-west,  our  drift  was  to  the  south- 

and  the  Irwh  coast    We  were  therefore  able  to  maintain  our  west, 
ing;  and  shortly  after  noon  the  gale  began  to  break,  whfen.  bv  the        ;. 
chronometer^  we  ascertained  our  longitude  to  be  r>  west;  tKe  latl-      / 
tade  observed  at  noon  being  56»  23'  N;    In  the  evenina:  w«  w^      I 
enabled  to  add  tl«^fe4  fSresail;  but  a.  the  sLwT;^^^ 
wejdehttfejmi^    During  the  nkht  we  stootfto^^^^  \ 

ward,inc<>BS^uenceof  the  wind  having  Wked  to  the  west:  butin      / 
Uie  nMWfing  of  the  ITUi  it  became  northerly^  and  we  again  wore. 
Atwjven  we  saw  the  Bishops  isles,  together  with  Tire/at  a  creat 
distance  to  the  north-east  ,  ^      «5.«m. 

♦h  Jilf;  «^\^"i#^"aJJy  decreased;  but  the  sweU  conUnued,  and» 
tte  ship  laboured^  so  much  as  to  prevent  us  taking  any  steps  about 

T^PP^ T^u    ^* "^^'^^K'^* »* f«"  ««1«;  and^the^sweUhaZr  . 
abated  on  the  18th,  we  contoived  to  secure  the  rigging  on  thefoS 

nivAt°"?rt'  ^"?  V  ^*  ?P"^  which'^^been  b«,k^        • 

Ai^^^t  *^^r.^^  ^°**''  •"•*  *•*"■  "^"«*d  » length,  was  pointed  un" 
jnd  tte  hed  being  secured  by  a  lashing  to  theCw  maSa^t«^^^ 
fr  *5^°  n  **f  ",«8»nfr  there  was  su£9cient  length  remaining  to  set 
the  top«ilUu|t  sail  as  a  topsail.  No  sail  could  however  be  set  on  tS 
pole,  w^ch  was  sprung  about  halfway  up.  At  noon  Malin  head 
was  in  Aght  to  the  south-east,  and  the  observed  latitude  was  5a«»  ft?  - 
14  iN.,  the  longitode  by  the  chronometer  being  7"  40' W.  On  this  • 
S^^L*^?**"  ^^"^  e*PWed  in  making^a  trunk  to  carry  fte 

fiiSl >„^ V*^*"*  °^  °'»''  P»«»ge  down  t&  river.  It  was  saS- 
fcctoiy  to  find  that  one  pump  had  been  sufficient  to  keep  the  A^ 

SJr;n2^!?«J?*7*'°*?  °^  ^"*  ^'^  ^^""^  ^^  ^^  obliged  to^hSS 
tLTli^r^^  f r«'  •*'  "  *^"  ^*^'  l^««e  iess^imperiou!, 
Z^iT^  moderated,  we  were  convinced  that  the  principaTSk 
must  be  somewhere  above  the  water  Una  ' 

nr^^itf  °?  ^i"  ^*^  *** '^'''?  "^  ■*"*  *^^««» ;  "Mid  as  we  had  every 
l?^  <rf.«^)ng  passw,I  began  to  entertdTserious  thoo^ 
Q(  puttmg  in  to  XodTiWillyrwhich  was  ^in  v.W  .nT^P 


,1- 


ii,f>>\.     w^i^V. 


20 


s«coiiD  vorA««  OF  lUicovtar 


the  old  one  to  be  stepned  on^£  i     *    /  ^"^  foremiat,  or  to  ciuto 
southward,  and    at  nnn»  «  *"  ***"  «tenUon  I  atood  tn  tkl 

head     AboatnpwcameoflfwWchw?^*    /'''^''^^M^ 

a^odaupplyoffreah  fiah.  The  wi^^'T^u^''"^^  '^«  obtained 
<^«wiV  entirely  at  6  p  m  wh!n  '  '^**"**  ^"  "O''^  variablT 
entrance  of  the  Lh ;  but  It  Sfn, '^  .^^  .^°  miles  from  S2 
^mng  up  from  the  wuSZ^h^wJ^"*  '"T^  "ne^tedl? 

!^  both  ti;^l5E^*i^ln>i±?*"^^  h-y^nough,!.^ 

«dourtour8etefnrtrli*'^"r^«°«y-    NotwitiSanSn^lS 
veiy  little  ^aterri^ch  a?  J°^"'^*'**'  ^*°^ 
cumatance,   aird     bV tSm^L^r '"*"'*^ '^^  «  ^wte^ 
channel,  we  werfeainnT;„?^*^^^.**^°f   completely  cleum?^ 

•P^"  WM  performed  on  ftir!..?!?' "t^'  *<»  "-ilM.    ffivS. 

more modeniteiand at!nTo  I    f*"** **>  the  Wh-eaat  beinir  m.«.i. 

yot  marked  in  th^  ehuTaa^^:  *»r ^'°  *h«  '^omi^J^^'^ 
fethoma.    lT^rtat«7^^^.t^^ 

repeat  thia  trial  at  ao  fflLT^^*?'*  "^  ^°^^^y  pemit  ua  to 
nin  waa  loa  m;i»-  *u:  ,8W«t  «  depth.    The  diirf-««-'  *Z:T',  *  *• 


repeat  thia  trial  at  «o  ^t^TL.V"  "^  however,  permit~ua'ir 

!.i!-."-A-^^'i-i,whi^^^  !^J-«?"* 


•  — -    u  i<u   a 

19^3m5/.°.^  miles,  toe  latitude  beiWseo'^p'lT^?  !^  *««*  thua 

we  ahortened  aail  and  ^nriJA^^^'PPe^mg  to  be  chafed 
too  muSh  swell  to allow^S^ ^^ "Aearwaters, but  there  w^ 


I 


►•*Krtite. 


k 

*%  >- 


■4 


TO  TlilB  Aicno  iioioirsi. 


..-.-■.■■  ^"'V„  ■-■         ai 

«»n».  In  the  •flehioon  of  this  day  we  n>t  ud  our  nram^r  fnr». 
iSi'  T^"tS',S^  .vnth  the  fower«:„d  'iopmrSi'dar 
Jl^'h  1^  ZfJ^  ->n^^-r.Uy  abated,  a«d  theJ^ind  wa.  no"^ 

Ae.  aea  contimiwl  to  decrease,  and  we  employed  S  Mr^nL^f 
fitting   up   a  dispenaarjr  for  the   «irgeom    The   eoS^??^3 

dSon^hOuTww^  W«^t,''T  ^"rth«- put  into  the  best  "on- 
m«to:  thK^kt^.^^"  "  ~  *°  P^P^  "^'^  ^^-^  the  alteiW 

lowr  we  mi.rhll„^«*^      "*®  "**  *'"'^  '^'»*°  '*  ^"  uncertain  h^ 
«5/x   o^I®°J°y  °"' P'®*®"* ''"nquiUity. 

l^ork  oT^Sr?*l„J^  c«penteni  and  englS^«  continued  their 

tUf  little^  wTlfC^r?  il:  ""'^  *"  '««W'«T. 

on  the  foJlowinTdrv  sSiA^  Witi^**!**^*    O-'tatituS 
the  chrono^S  s?*w     %7?-  r  ^  ^'  "»•*  ^  longitude  by 

wefound  it  -«fficieS?y°Sl" to  dlow^ t^^^^         ^"'^"^  "<*»& 
»t,  Close  leefed.    Tbw  ^  a«^2^  i  *5  *'  ***  P~P«>*  *»!>«"»  on 

?aii,whichir[K»;«SLd^aZ^T^j'Jr  "^""^  *«p?^»«»* 

in  its  proper  place.  P^  "°*®  ****  accident,  was  dso  Mt  . 

«-^t?;XSS^^  than  a  fine  !««e 

■ome  of  the  •homZ*  W^  .«Li5'^  ^"T"    ^«  ^  »^ 
-"vwnen  mat  Bad  attended  us.  and  now  «H^f»>nnin>d 


'  W  • 


■'■-'»-.  : 


sa 


SECOND  VOTAOLOr  DISOOVCftT 


■-3# 


■fif. 


llo  try  whether  this  bird  was  not  eatable*  in  spite  of  its  bad  reputa- 
tion, since  it  might  be  important  for  us  hereafter  to  increase  our  re- 
sources of  this  nature,  and  to  know  to  what  we  might  trust  in  case 
of  our  coming  to  short  allowance.  We  found  them  excellent,  even 
in  a  pie,  though  the  most  supicious  mode  of  cookery  for  meat 
of  such  "a  nature,  and  were  glad  to -find  that  we  need  iJOt  even  be 
forced  by  hunger  to  adopt  a  food  which,  if  it  never  did  more, 
would  at  least  afford  us  variety.  And  I  will  now  make  this  remark 
ibr  the  benefit  of  all  who  may  be  situated  as  we  have  often  been, 
whatever  use  it  may  be  turned  to  by  those  who,  not  knowing  want, 
may  find  in  the  sea  birds  a  source  of  variety  or  luxury.  It  has 
been  overlooked  by  every  one,  that  the  fishy  flavour  of  all  tbese 
animals  is  confined  to  the  fat;  the  whole  of  which  also  is  lodged 
immediately  under  the  skin,  and  is  chiefly  situated  on  the  haunches; 
The  muscles  are  always  free  of  any  oily,  or  rancid,  or  fishy  taste; 
io  tiiat  nothing  more  is  requisite  than  to  skin  the  animals,  and  es- 

Ecially  on  the  back,  to  render  them  undistinsuidiable  from  a 
id  bird.  In  tlus  way  even  the  connorant  and  ue  puffin,  stron^^- 
tasted  as  they  are,  can  be  cooked  in  any  manner,  without  tiie  possi- 
bility of  being  recognised  for  seafowlv  In  fact  this  is  equally 
true  of  many  land  birds;  and  in  Sweden,  where  the  cock  of  the 
wood  and  t^he  blaok  cock  feed  on  juniper  and  fir,  especially  in  win- 
ter, they  are  often  scarcely  eatable,  from  the  flavour  of  turpen< 
tine;  while  that  is  entirely  removed  by  the  same  mode  of  treat- 
ment, W)  as  to  render  them  a  very  acceptable  game  for  the  table. 
I  believe,  however,  that  I  most  except  the  moUemoke  (fulmar 
peterelj;  since,  in  this  bird,  Hhe  fat  is  so  mixed  with  the 
muscles,  that  no  contrivance  can  rid  them  of  their  delectab^ 
flavour.  /^ 

29th.  It  being  daylight  soon  after  three  in  Uie  morning  of  thi« 
day, 'a  light  air  came  from  the  eastward,  and  we  set'  all  our  sails. 
Yie  had  seen  an  Icel^d  hawk  last  night,  and  now  observed  two 
finnera  running  to  the  north-east  The  carpenters  were  again  sejt 
to  work  on  the.  skiff,  it  being  Monday,  and  were  also  employed  in 
making  a  jigger-mast  We  had  made  but  twenty  miles  in  the 
last  twenty-four  hours,  being  the  worst  run  we  had  had  since 
quitting  the  Irish  coast;  but*  in  the  evening,  a  breeze  came  from 
die  eastward,  which  continued  during  the  ni^^t,  and  served  to  help 
us  on  considerably^  At  sunset  there  was  a  shower  of  rain;  after 
which  we  saw  an  iceblink  bearing  north-north-west,  the  coast  of 
Greenland  being  computed  to  be  about  230  miles  off  in  that  direc- 
tion. We  also  saw  at  diis  time  many  of  the  birds  called  boat- 
swains,  besides  our  former  attendants  the  shearwaters  aiid  moUe- 
mokes. 

On  the  thirtieth  we  had  freshf  breezes  an^  cloudy , weather,  with 
the  wind  from  the  north.  All  sail  was  set;  and  the  carpenters 
finished  their  work  on  the  boat  and  th^jigger-mast  Tl^  fresh  beef 
of  the  bullock  wl^ich  we  had  killed  was  tins  day  exhausted:  but  we 


^ 


V 


w 


■S^ 


-i 


■'ii 


TO  TBI  AIOTIO  aKoiom. 


ft 


de<!ld*d  on  keeping  the  other  animal,  if  possible,  until  ^  anived 
ft  ^^,\^'  '■  ^^  ""'ght  then  contrive  to  use  the  whole,  by  means  of' 
the  cold,  m  a  fresh  sUte.  The  boilen  seemed  to  continue  tigbf.  and 
the  pump  was  in  considerable  progress;  the  bellows  being  alsofinish- 
ed;  so  that  we  had  a  prospect  of  being  again  able  to  use  our  steam, 
to  some  extent  at  least,  should  the  necessity  for  other  ftid  than  our 
sails  arise,  as  indeed  could  not  fail  to  be  the  case. 

July  Ut.  The  leaks  which  had  now  required  us  to  keep  our 
^pumps  going  for  at  least  an  hour  during  every  watch,  in  ane  weather, 
and  without  cessation  when  it  blew  hard,  were  this  day  discovered 
to  be  the  OToduce  of  thre^  treenail  holes  on  the  larboard  side,  abreast 
of  the  engine  room.  The  largest  of  these,  which  was  about  three 
leet  WIow  Jhe  water  liiie,  was  easily  stopped,  and  this  gave  imme- 
dM|te/relief  to  the  purtp.  The  <al|ertwo,  though  less  in  size,  were 
siti^ted  near  the  floor.heads,«|»^e  could  not  get  at  them  tyi 
an  opportunity  should  offer  J^p|fethe  ship  aground:  it  was, 

1   r!!5."f  ■f**'***^  ^.^''^^HHW®  •*»*  nature  of  these  two 
leiAs,4^hich  also,  m  point  of^HW>f  litUe  consequence. 
_  1  he  landblink  was  now  veiy^™**^^"*  .  .    ..    ^ 


discerned  the  land  itself,  wh«£h' 


r-^  -   'oj  and  in  the  evenihg  we 
^coAceived  to  be  Cape  Farewelk" 

minf   nro  HOP  QA'  'KI    .nJ    aoO  Aet 


The  la^tude  and  longitude  of  thj^  point  are  59°  38'  N,  and  42*'  45 
W,  whUe  our  own,  at  the  time  that  we  saw  it,  wei^  58°  8',  and  42« 
30  ;  BO  that^resuming  these  several  thinni  to  be  correct,  our  dis- 
tance from  It  ihust  have  been  about  31  leaiues.  Dunne  this  dav 
Aeiemp«rature  of  the  air  and  of  the  sea  feil>ree  degrees?  the  air 
being  46"  and  the  water  47",  at  sunset  r        "i 

'  On  ihis  day  we  began  to  keep  our  regular  register  of  the  ther- 
mometer evew  two  hours,  though  unfortunately  losing  one  at  the 
veryiirst  trial,  through  the  unhandiness  of  the  mate.  The  wind 
wu  frbmi  the  easrward,  but  there  were  evident  signs  of  a  chanire 
*•»"*  to  happen  bSfore  no  long  time  should  be  pi.t 
JT'*  '  T  ^"M*  completed  a  fortnight  of  fair  wind*  and. 

With  It  om-  run  W  the  point  of  our  last  departure.  Loch  SwiUy 
to  Cape  Fawwell.  Towards  the  evening,  a.  we  had  foreseen,  the 
wmd  veertjd  to  the  northward,  and  our  vessel  coul^teJonirer  lie 
h«a- course.  We  now  passed  the  spot  wheife  the  HMInd  ^per 
had  been  on  the  thirteenth  of  June,  1810,  afier  havingleft>air  island 
W  ^df"?^^  «^  May;  and  as  we  had  taken  ou?  own  departure . 
from  Loch  Swilly  on  the  eighteenth  of  June,  it  followed  that  we 
ShmS^i^^^''*''  *^  •  °''  ^  «Peditton,  in  nearly  the  same  run 
_  We  haTserved  out  to  the  men,  on  the  first  of  July/ an  allowance 
^^^Jj  "?'"fe*^  ^^'?''  """^^  we  were  now  to  encounter.  S 
l?le,  a  pair  of  wadmal  hose,  a  pair  of  flannel  drawers,  a  Welsh  wir, 
l^°\'^^J^^^^'>^^^^^o{caTpethooU.    Thejacketsofthe 

^^^ir^^  ""^r"  ""^"^  '"«^/^y  distinguished  so  that  our 
equipage  had  altogether  a  very  uniform  and  orderly  appearance. 


:> 


■-4 


■:;v. 


'   .) 


\    w 


)  i 


94 


SEC<]^]>  VOTA«a  ov  Dn^foVIAT 


These  clothes,  with  exception  of  the  boots,  were  a  present  to  the 
"»«°J  ^  a  reserve  set  for  each  was  ktfpt  in  store,  in  case  of  need. 
ad.  Our  new  jigger-mast  had  been  got  ready  on  the  second  (ves- 


-teW^rtogethei-mth^wrtea^^ 
out-nggpr;  and,  after  examining  our  run,  we  found  Tit  to.'be  ninety- 
six  nailes,  but  unfortunately  on  only  a  south-iyest  coi^be.  Thus,  on 
this  day,  we  found  ourselve*  in  latitude  57"  47',  and  in  lonmtude  bv 
account  46»  53'.  The  temperature  of  the  air  at  midnight  M  beeJ 
41 ,  and  thpt  of  the  sea  43«».  After  making  i^boarxl^  to  the^^south- 
west,  we  tacked  at  8  p.  m.,  and  stood  all  night  to  the  northw»rd:  so 
that  at  noon  on,  the  next  day,  we  found  ourselves  in  latitude,  by  ob- 
serwtion,  57"  59',  and  longitude  47"  31*.  The  w«ather  vtu  hazv. 
•nd  the  winds  light  and  vanable.  ,  *"«•  "p  "^y» 


L 


M 


\ 


j^'- 


c- 


./ 


¥ 


/•■ 


< 

MpK'- 

• 

"4$       f     : 


I 


/ 


•«■' 


W    jf^J'/K--. 


TO  THE  ARCTIC  BBOIONS. 


25 


1 

• 

t 

CHAPTER  IV. 


%" 


Off  Cape  Farewell-First  Icelerg  seen^-JlbraJt  of  BaaVs 
River— Sight  of  Sukkertap— Land  and  Islands  near  Wide- 
ford  seen— A  Codbank  discovered— Mountain  called  Old  Wo- 
fnan^s  Hood— Arrival  at  an  Jlnchorage. 

July  5th.  This  day,  being  Sunday,  it  was  calm  during  the  whole 
morning.    At  half-past  ten,  the  ship^s  company  was  mu&red,  as  we 
were  then  just  entering  Davis's  straits,  being  offCape  FareweU. 
The  weather  being  cold,  and  the  men  in  their  warm  dresses,  we  for 
a  moment  forgot  that  we  were  n&w  in  the  very  midst  of  summer 
and  in  its  hottest  period;  scarcely  even  thinking  of  the  contrast  be- 
tween our  own  situation  and  sensations  and  those  of  the  friends  we 
I  had  left  behind.    After  divine  service,  a  fine  fair  breeze  soon  sprune 
I  up,  and  w^  secured  a  piece  6f  fir  timber  which  was  passing  us:  the 
f  fragment  of  some  ship,  since  it  was  full  of  treenail  holes.    It  was 
Covered  by  difierent  marine  animals,  and  was  therefore  a  prize  to 
Commander  Ross. 

At  eight  o'clock  this  evening  we  were  going  at  the  rate  of  six 
miles  an  hour,  and  bur  rate  increased  during  toe  night  so  rapidly, 
that  we  were  at  length  obliged  to  shorten  saiH  chiefly  on  account  of 
the  Krusenstern,  which  we  could  not  conveniently  tow  along  under 
any  considerable  velocity.  We  now  distincfly  saw  the  hmd,  which 
we  supposed  to  be  Cape  Farewell,  about  thir^  leagues  distant,  and 
near  it  a  number  of  icebergs,  bearing  north-east  by  north. 

Gth.  The  breeze  cohtinuihg  favourable,  we  had  .a  prospect  of 
making  ourselves  amends  for  the  former  two  baffling  days,  and  now 
passed  many  pieces  of  drift  lyood,  but  under  too  rapid  a  motion  to 
allow  of  our  securing  any.  Our  latitude  at  noon  was  59«  33',  and 
longitude  by  the  chronometer^SD"  ^'j  so  that  we  found  that  we  had 
made  140  miles  in  the  last  twenty-four  hours.  The  temperature  of 
the  air  was  48°,  and  that  of  the  water  44*j  and  there  was  now  no 
land  insight  •<^ 

7/A.  The  breeze  still  continufed  till  three  in  the  afternoon  of  thia 
day;  and  we  found  by  the  log,  atfeoon,  that  we  had  run  138  mUes   t 
since  the  preceding  one;  but  as  the  haziness  of  the  weather  pre- 
vented us  from  taking  any  observations  for  the  chronometer,  we 
could  not  form  a  more  accurate  computation.    As  the  latitude,  how- 

"■ ■'■■ ■■'■ ^ ■"■ ■'■—'■'■■'"■ '  ■  i  i       .— — ■■ ■■■„- ■  II  ,?— ..■■.■ 


# 

"'• 

> 

♦ 

.  .1?' 

rJ" 

V            1> 

i 

um  .>  * 


■    <.,..  t 


J-.iNK»«t^..,t^',^ /«»yiV),-^<.<y-,fa  V>*»l^<^^„^  )  J 


>r 


...  > 


••  '■SCOND  VOrA0E  OF  DISCOVERS        fe 

JJSi:  '^ii"^  '^  "'^  ^3''  ?^^  fo"r  "»"«»  more  of  northinic  on  a 

_,^Bjl^  80uth-south^8t    In  consequence  of  th/s  swell  we  ^re 
^bged,  m  the  eveqing,  to  shorten  sail,  by  takinR  inX  mL^ST 

dS^'S^cSlJ^^  -placing  the  .ain^l^^Jhythf^tud' 

half  nni"if  ^'^  '"°'" -l^*  "^^  ^^^  ^^^^'^^  *e  coufse  to  north-west 
nnJ^K         'J^^  ™*"'*'*"'  having  found  this  to  be  northHBasrbv 

ll™!-i.      j"??^,  1".*  *'^  "'"«''  mrawured  twenty-one  feft  ••> 

eiB^^a^i*  S*'';k'"'?"«  P'T^^  ^°'  *»>«  »«^t»de,  we  found  it  to  be 
68     36,  and  tho  longitude  by  the  chronometer  54°  31'     Th! 

fermi  in  «ha  uZT    •         7^  **  *°"'^°  "***  »  gannet  pie  was  nre- 

.--,«.dii^a:r.„rrf'"tK':r.strr.  - 


J:.   ■  '■'  ».■■     ^  .  *  •< 


/ .      ■,•■■■  \-^     '■■■■'  - '     ^-  .■      ^       ■•■■■,■,      ■ 

^  IPO  THB  ABCTIC  RBOIONSJ  W 

ready  for  use  aa^Ihad  anticipated  a  few  dayk  before.  The  gW  of 
the  forcing  punip  had  taken  much  more  time  than  was  expected, 
though  the  engineers  and  armourer  luid  been  steadily  at  work.  The* 
carpenters,  however,  contrived  to  G^  the  new  davits,  and  we  got  out 
one^of  the  six-oared  boats  an<f  hoisted  it  up  on  the  larboard  gang- 
yf&y.  We  took  this  opportunity  also  of  getting  out  of  the  Knisen- 
stern  five  casks  of  salt  provisions  which  had  been  left  in  her  for  bal- 
last, together  with  a  log  of  oak  which  we  wanted  for  nresent  use. 
A  great  many  shearwaters,  boatswains,  and  kittiwakes,^re  killed 
for  use;  but  on  this  day  we  were  unable  to  gefeany^  observations  on 
account  of  the  haze,  whifii  was  very  thick.  , 

IIM.  This  morning  the  wind  sprung  up  from  the  north  by  west, 
bemg  directly  against  us,  sotthat  we  began  to  be  fearful  lest  our  pas- 
sage should  be  delayed.  We  stood  to  the  eastward,  and  at  three, 
picked  up  a  piece  of  an  American  cedar-ttee,  sound  and  convertible  to 
use.  We  killed  as  many  birds  as  would  suffic^for  the  iaex^a  Sunday 
dinner,  and  accordingly  served  qxnt  to  them  lour  Enough  to  make 
crustsJor  their  pies.  We  «ould  get  no  observation  at  noon^  and  the 
wind  increased,  as  did  the  Aold,  the  air  and  water  being  botkat  43°. 
At  ten  in  the  evening  Ihejtemperature  of  the  latter  suddenly  fell  to 
38^;  which,  indicating  the  approach  of  ice  in  some  form,  induced 
us  to  teck  and  stand  to  tlw,  westward.  We  had  seen  the  coast  of 
Greenland  at  intervals,  and^had  therefore  litUe  doubt  that  We  were 
approaching  the  land  ice.  It  hkm  too  fresh  to  use  the  engine,  even 
had  It  been  completed;  but  we  sEll  hoped  that  we  might  be  able  to 
take  advantage  of  it  on  Monday. 

. ,  ^*?*'  9"  ^"°^*>'  ***®  weather  was  thick  and  foggy,  and  it  was 
blowing,  fresh.  At  daylight  we  saw  a  strange  sail  standing  to  the 
eastward;  she  seemed  a  brig,  but  we  were  at  too  great  a  distance  to 
make  out  exactiy  what  she  was.  There  was  too  much  swell  to  ad- 
mit of  divme  service,  so  that  we  could  but  muster  the  men.  We 
had  an  indifferent  observation  immediately  after  noon:  and  found 
the  latitude  to  be  63°  15',  and  the  longitude  54*  23'.  Much  drift  ' 
wood,  and  many  birds  passed  by  us;  the  kittiwakes  becomimr  TOUch 
more  numerpus.  As  on  the  preceding  eveni|i,the  water  fellin  tem- 
perature, but  again  rose,  shortly  after;  the  lowest  being  37*%  and 
the  hyjhest  43°:  whence  we  conchided  that  we  had  agaiv  approach- 
ed some  icte.  At  eight  in,the  evening  we  fell  ii^  a  strong  nppline 
current,  which  made  the  ship  very  uneasy,  and  seemed  to  indicate 
the  set  of  a  stream  of  Davis's  Straft.  The  temperaturD  of  the 
water  was  then  39««nd  40°,  but  it  afterwards  jose  to  4lVthourh 
we  were  nearest  to  the  Wern  land,  and,  as  wef  omputed,  not  mora 
than  fifty  miles  fit>m  it 

13M.  We  had  stood  first  to  the  eastward  last  night,  and  then  to 
the  westward  after  midnight,  the  wind  gradually  decreasing;  and  on 
this  day  It  fell  calm  at  noon.     We  had  tacked  at  three  in  the  morn-™ 
ing,whenwe  found  ourselves  in  the  ripple,  and  as  it  cleared  up 
about  ten,  we  concluded  that  we  were  within  fifteen  leagues  of  the 


<■*.. 


=t 


.^' 


^ 


^■^'' 


.^ 


:v 


.-«fc 


^ 


«t 


ncQND  vorAoiE  OF  piscovxbt' 


i 


'ifi^:- 


not  help  noticinVi^/^LTM^*''"''??."*®''^*'-  We  could 
that  thi?  be^wS  nSr^^S^e^J'?^^^^^^^^  ''  ^*«  '^  »«>^^ 

fore.  It  is  indeed  n^t  to  bnLd^thi-^"*  eleven  yews  be- 
yet,  having  in  my  MMe«,!n„  »  f  *  ?*'  ?'  *'°"^<^  "^  *e  same: 
even  monfre  JiaufS  the  iShl**"'^!!!  °^  *»'  °°«» »'  ^«» 

wouid%r™U«^i;£  jjaS?  Sd  r^r  ii?~T^8 -^'^w^^^^^ 

two  tons  on  boJ^Tt^^^UTi^ttZ^^fu '"  *^^  ^°""  *^t»i  ' 
wd  miny  «»ds  near  SSs  icXre^S.^^^ '^^ 
and  ^Crfound  no  diffi^urin  Kn  '     Sf  ^^'^^u.'^'*  *»'«*» 
:/  ««*°  on  Sunday  morning  WMii^„«£^^         *>ng  whiA  we  had  , 
;  ^     of  usi  and  when  th  "K^-n^nL     ^^  T^  '""*'' «»  the  north 
:       for  Baal»s  river,  whe„c^?cPSffi5^^^^         ^^^^'^  ^«'  '^ 
We  saw  more  birds  to^a^iSS?^?"^  *  "^^*  ^^««I- 
ed  evir  to  have  seen^&eTS?f  r^'^'S^  *^^^ 
weed  from  which  nmyfmaJl  fishS^n?^^^^    *"  ^^""»*^*y  °f  ^' 
•  procured,  and  preserved  bv  rnm«    j     S^®""  ™"'°*  '"^'J*  were 
once  forkll.  thK^  h»ti  Commander  Ross.    Of  these  I  may  sav 

tural^iJSivThteh  A^^o^^^  ^°'  *«  Appendix  on^Ni^ 

them  woS^oTon^t^teSSnrtL"/"^^^^  ' 

be  of  less  distincthS  i^d  SL  *    narrative  of  our  pf  oceedfngs,  but 

^^illread  to  the  IprenSS  we  ™Shr£*°^^^  ""  5*""8  «°  oak 
^rst  eonvenivt  oppoXnit?  "¥.""«*»'>  ^^^dy  to  fix  it  on  at  the 
K«  work,jco2Lin^?^?J^pa2J"  5T^    ^'^^'"8  *^«°  ««»•*««» 
which  we  had  planned,  UwM^^i  "nprevements  of  the  engin^ 

feeding  pump  would  act^aiTw^^^wKK^'M'*"  '^^"^'^  how  thP 
ed.    Ti^fo^erwifo^uS^TSi^^^^ 

piece  of  work;  but  though  [hi^nrS^-    i  f*?  '^°' »  succpssful 
'topped,  the  Wall  onr^tlheforS^;^^^^  ""l  ^^  latter  was 

engine  was  not,  however  set  tin^T    ^"^  ^"^  *«*  ^"red.     The 
br^  rendered  it  S^r  «'  *''"  "''"Tng  up  of  a   * 

Wn  the  same  evening  we  were  abreast  of  HooP     • 
ow  course  to  the  north-nort^Lrlhl?  jf    ^w  ''''•^^'  '^^  *»Ped 
offin.,as^  Ae  wind  w^ToleT^ilf^r  ^n^?^^.^'^  «*««  m^re 


oifin.,  as  the  wFnd  ^S  tol:e''St^^^  ™#  «*'V  "*"«  -"« 
cloulv  all  day;  and,  ind^hi^hJti^^iT    ^u  ®  '^^^^''''  remained 


■  -•  J  t  •'»  «"">  juaging  by  the 

ried  by  a  current  to  the  northward  Th.o  •  ^'"T"  """^""»  ear- 
nest by  our  observations,  wh^h^e  us  6^  3"^!!!?,  7'^^'  "»°i- 
nine  miles  more  than  the  latitude^? account    t1!"k*"*'*'  °*"  "'*°"* 

-  the  mo.i„,  ^i^^^t^^zs^::^^ 


1   .^. 


^■ 


^  ••""','"' 


♦' 


\ 

TO  THE  ABCTIC  REOIONS. 


»9 


from  tile  southward.  ^  We  ha^  a  good  observation  at  noon,  by  wWch 
we  found  ourselves  in  latitude  64«  48',  and  in  lonritude^SS^  4 V 
Weobtoined  on  this  day  a  fine  view  of  tiie  remSe  mo^n^n 
Suk],ptop  (the  sugar  loaf ),  of  which  I  was  enabled  to  ^teSS^ 
S!F^*^^  2!^  bearing  east-nofth^  and  the  Xr  due  ^7 
lU^peared  to  ^be  about  twelve  leagues  distant,  and  far  ove^n^    " 
all  the  surrounding  mountains.  ■»  «""  i*r  ovenopped 

The  carpenters  continued  to  be  employed  unon  the  neil^  ma«th»o^ . 
and  as  we  had  replenished  our  water%^  aeT^^ut^Sw^ce* 
for  ^„g,  together  wia,>  quantity  of  soap  tb  each^  W 
ram  feU  about  six  w  the  ev|5ning,and  ihe  s^eH  increa^w  mu™h 
as  to  be  very  troublesome; c^hile a  breeze  also  spruneim  from  Jh^ 

norA^ast  by  nortii,  our  tru'fcoun»  being  north  Cwesf  At  JSe 
it  cleared  away,  when  we  ^ad  another  view  n7 ♦!,?«.     •«! 

mountains  nearWin  Sou^,  anS  thT^dl  tj2tu"n 
Anne's  Cape.  But  one  iceberg  was  seen  to^lay?  JSIIkat  a  S 
amaU  one^  and  we  continued  to  meet  with  birds,  iaweed  and  S 

found  tiiat  we  had  neared  the  land  considerably;  but  aSTtKind 

S-hdf-^l*^"«  ""'  '^^^'  "^^  SukkertopSuft^^?; 
15/A.  The  swell  continued  all  nighf,  and  this  prevented  iis  f«,m  • 

noon  i^e  succeeded  fn  getting  an  observatioTby  whiS  le  ti 
ounjelves  in  latitude  65°  20',  and  longitude  540  20-    Tn  7^1 

A ^Ur?      !r  f*^'"""*  ">■>«»  or  feountahM  tin  this  ooaM- *OiiM„     ' 

2^e'  Itwar? Tft'r'i^  t  chrohometer,  55o  2l^'^T^'l 
.IfiawM  f!^m  fhJ  lonT  J^  *5^  morning,  arid  found  ourselves  nine 
teajsuea  from  the. land;  landing  to  Uie  westward  after  thi.  till  7^t.     j 


'J*' 


/-_ . 


>v 


i.  always  founllhatthi 
V       17M.  fhe  wind 

tucbabatfedthat  We 
,      und  that  it  made  I 


"m,  .  —    V    ■  -  — 

oxiimi^  and  assisted 


»  ^ 


i\ 


>       l.r 


A 


DOWD  VOTAOE  OF  DI^COVEBY 

Ae  afternoon,  when  we  again  wore.    We  soon 
Th7f"S?"    ^"»  «fe»:^h>«t»  we  saw  no  more 

latenTe  S  '  n  #*""5  *»"*  ^e  Relieved  that 
«aten  the  lift  alIo#ince  we  should  getJttf -tho 

ceased  ^fr^uentjte  s6a 
more  mbdbliite  th 
ielee<]^l^||^of 
in  re*;(  ^ 
_^  ,    Ivindwl^™ 
_v — |w^fi|je  wind^-wi 
"I*l®2"  trf'wtfMnd  a  h«l 

IprmeiOeeWay.     Infth 
"'"  ^hta  8een>  with 

iS^P  ■   ® ''®®'"  """"^  »"iu»aiBir'Been  a  little 

k^<*rhich  we  had  noted  yesterday,  yet  only 

^  seven  and  eight  o'clpckj  whiie  afoi 

away.    At  eleveii  in  1^  m6rting,the  en? 

^  worit  mqre  than  th«i  Jiours,  Se  rf  the 

\.Zf    ^  '^astherefotejpiediatelyputout 

Fv^^^k""**  ""*  *°>^^  «"^#«  power  S^k4 

inguisRed  that  iS  S?'"«^  "^"^  "'"'^^^'^  st^^and  the  fiS? 

.    Weimmediitelvit^w^iff  "''^>''***'®«"»*one. 

the  smaTpS-  KL^.iTk-'^^       "^P^r  ***^  ^'^K^'  ^^^  ^3  repair 

'  undertak^;^The  3ctwS£  ,^  ^th^/  "  ^'^tI  "^^  '^  ^iffiS^^' 
to  eachQth*er,i  thS  Xw^^^^ 

.plugging  up  thUldl^thTr^:^  5^^        ^"J"'^^  "^'^  ones,afi«r 

WouihtVhave  don^^^^^^^  themselves  meet  as 

the  wprlmen;  while  we  re£iLTi*'''^^{  increasing  the  trouble  of 

able  time  whi^h  w^^S^pbf.wl/'^S^^^^  ^T^^  %  y*^"" 

nighi  when  on  trvinir  thp  nf^irtrr     •       *^'*^'^®  ^*'^"'  t^"  ^d- 

foSnS  further  alSrstSr^^'^eSt  t  fart^,^?  f '" 

^  new  pipes,  so  as  to  occupy  Us  -th^^  wU:tft;,X  frti?  1^:^:  ^ 

fki^r"^*?"?*^®/  ^y  observation  this  day  at  noon 
the  longitude  hj  the  chronometer,  50°: '  shoS 

h"an';ed\r'^"«-     l^l  ^rP^-W'oflhTiL'a. 
SbleiiJf  ^'''^^'l^  '•*^^'  increased,  with 

"1.!^  ^.gmen^on  of  the  swell. 
^  "  I8M.  The  ^mkjfyra  and  armourer  were 
*ngme;  my  o^jPetyalso  causing  mTto 


thai 


'    *    ' 


'5°  37',»nd 
lad  made 
had  not 
^ever  any  _. 

»yed  on  the^ 
"^  my  tinie 


■-ifi 


'^-r:; 


*- 


•^^n"^:-;- 


#1 


V        ^< 


TO  TH«  ABOi>IC  RXOIOVS. 


"o 


51 
in  a»e  iengine  room,  since  I  found  that  this  renetitinn  .,r  o!iJ 
winds  mi^ht  materiaUy  obstruct  our  p»L^  toXl  L    H^^^^ 
noon,  conleauentiy,  we  had  only  madeTur  miles  northfn?'  A 
was  not  tiHlve  in -the  afternoon^that  the  wort  ^^ 
ready     After  an  hour»s  labour  in  ge^L  up  t^^^ 

tackle  Md  th>»g„tit*o„t  if  uTSr.  ""  *'l  '  '^ 

19M J3|,ruig  the  liirt  night  the  wind  wd  weathrf  rem.iJ«J  wilh! 

little  cdcuJftt**t^^Sill&^%^°"'*^"»*'*y'»  •"  »  «t"«tion 
^^^r  »"^  l>P<?®eM>  trom  the  various  misfortunes 


which  hwS^Si^^ru^  aitH  ¥  i.«*i«i     '/•        , -"  ""owi  t.uucB 

Jwind  co^^n*ue so  u5^^ufK&^r  ,*^**«""''»«?»  '^ould  the 
convttoent  anchorwre  on^!*^ .     u***^  *°-°8^'''  *°  ^''o''  ft»r  some 

carry  more  «ul.  WiStWsvi^wfL^TP*"^^  to" 

occurrence  of  this  W  1^0.3-^  '^^^°"'  ^^"^"^  "^"^yi  but  the 
this  desiea,^ly^^u^!'lt^^^  ^xiutiW  of 

,       .  8^^anaJ^ave  us-hows  that^mn  hcttc^^fonmm  was  b6>.hi. 


i ' 


»  I 


' » 


k 


i     V 


:\ 


w. 


^<*  ...^  **^' 


^l" 


ll^   ", 


^.' 


)■>,■ 


:/'■■ 


32 


iXOONO  VOTAOB  Ol-  DncOVXRT 


/\ 

1 

K' 

\      , 

N    ! 

1 

^ 

.kJ 


?    \ 


,\    . 


roIdfrZslt^^r:!:!'  the  deep.«ea  lead  eveiy  two  houn,,^ 

Len  thf,        "'"'"«^  ^"""  ^^^  '^^  provisions.    A  laSre  iceter7w^ 
S   W^'^fnl"*  *'  "  considerable  distance,  with  3y  whdi  Irf 

Wideford  boreeanf-  !«,♦!!..-<••      •  j        ,    ,  "°®"  ^'^^  ^a^d  about  .  ' 

m.  b„,  of  p^j  ^    (JS,°ng  toZ  Sky  Ife  Sri??™™"'' 
could  emnlov  but  one  imrf#«.  tu-.^u      **'**f,"^^  ol  the  boilers,  we 


y.s" 


i»  ♦  ■  i  i 


U       -^4-  ^--i— ^ 


f^i'^Jk-:;  ift- 


a:^h.  ■ 


KiiaiMiiSi^^ 


y  two  hours^^and 
^d  BmallMfuies; 
ater  shewed  that 
e  tried  our  lines, 
proved  very  ac- 
arge  iceberg  was 
nany  whale9  and 
diminished  from 
and  fish  during 

ded  to  23,  after 
nd  no  bottom  at 
part,  we  judged 
J  the  Victorious  ^ 
1':  and. though 
on  of  the  same 
tioh. 

en  bearing  east 
t  see  the  sun  so 
uing  we  passed 
rday,  being  but 
«f  Straits.    The 
"r.iigger-mast; 
i^also  finished, 
lageassoon  as  ' 
en  in  hopes  of 
he  land  about  >  ' 
>ffin  theafter- 
ceable,  we  put 
nfJon  of  dear- 
th west  tiian 

the  tide  or  a 
way  from  tije 
ner,  however, 
lie  boilers,  we 
quicker  pro- 
ped  it  at  four 
i^t  eight,  but 
:(intinued  ad- 
e;\  and  what- 
irtoe,  we  had 

ontinued  till 
-v^est,  being 
f  actiniuwa» 
onthenbank 
3&fathom8; 
toififty^and     ^ 


'it  \ 


«co»wrA»,;„o„^, 


^'i%»// 


OttAPtEft  V. 


•^'    Hi'vi 


^^tqftheL  

;  X^J?,**' »t "Oder all «||,  „ ST^^u'S^'*"'--    We/ShereS* 


«eJBe»c«ifi^f afll&^l^^jy  7^^  It  was  between  tfate  an? 

fcjtwfti^  tiSiS^^^  Which  wi  SS.S! 

?  ^'Wli,  iiiwto  cowrtd  bv  hwL^SJj^"  ^  *^"»<*»  near,  ai.  to 
h«i«l  quitted  theCf5SiSd\3l&?^  »^«.4  1^ 

•tm«5,h.«whiors;5ra 


^/ 


never  kno|»i  a  vapour! 


ftn 


r|. 


V-'- 


X    ; 


'%■ 


ffif,    i^"       a^J^-^'k 


I    . 


c 


/" 


'  ;  TO  TW  AlCTIC  MOlOMlg  ,  » 

■  -  "lit  f  ■  ■• '  '  .  '".■'./-'■ 

At  five  d^dock  the  tide  had  ebbed  cooflideraWy,  bo  as  to  leavd  us 
only  twelve  feet  water.  We  found  n*  inhabitanta  on  the  Beacon 
liland;  but  the  presence  of  three  Esquimaux  dogs  assured  us  that  we 
were  not  fai:  from  some  setUement  Ascending  tq  the  beacon,  I 
nined  a  view  of  two  magnificent  inlets,  surrounded  by  mountains 
of  a  very  staking  character;  iar  more  striking  now  than  theV  had 
appeared  on  entering  the  harbour,  as  Uifrview  which  I  obtained 
was  more  extensive.  Being  entirely  clear  of  snow,  while  broken 
into  precipices,  and  shooUng  upwahls  their  sharp  and  rugged  peaks, 
their  aspect  was  very  diflferent  indeed  from  what  had  occurred  to  us 
in  our  former  voyage,  when  the  season  was  earUer,  and  the  presence 
of  jnow  on  them  not  only  obscured  their  form!  in  many  places,  but. 
by  brmgiM^them  near  to  the  eye,  destroyed  aU  almosphwic  »er^ 
spection;  all  k^^ping  and  aU  landscape  effect  It  was  truly  a  splen- 
did and  a  sfrikinKscene,  well  worthy  of  the  pencil  of  a  very  £tke- 

~  br««kers,|  both  to  the,  north  and 

l^sen^the  right  passage^or 

bv  good  iorUine  thfua  by 


rhe  sight  of  numerous , 

the  south,  now  proved  that  we  —v. 

rather  the  only  navigable  onej  guided  «.v.-;  «v  kmvu  wnune  inaa  nv 
observauons  w^^  we  had  not  in  reaUty^  pqwer  of  aMnl 
The  ishnd  Itself  was  a  far  finer  object  than  cSrErmer  expSJenSi 
•t  an  earl<er,^d  perhaps  in  a  worse  season,  had  Vven  us  iftsoa  to 
exp^  on  thg  icy  coast,  and  reminded  us  in  a  Uv%(mannet  of  the 

^^^"*L*^'^*^^.  "^^  ^"^  f^^^  ^^  *  month  Wore,  and  the 

•UDimer  ^fhich  we  believed  we  had  left  behind.    JBve3\m»cUc*iS 

part  of  Urt  surfa^^  even  the  sniallest  spot  which  was  not  a  purepre- 

■gpice ^  asea  rock,  wm  covered  with  verdure;  whUe  a  pnffiisiorof 

IMd  plants,  now  in  fuU  and  luxuriant  blowom,  rendered  that  a  sum- 

a^rjU^en  wlwsh  we  expected  to  find  what  we  bad  often  done  b^ 
foroUbwa  of  nigged  rocks  and  cold  mow.    We  no  longer,  tb^ 

**^*!P*T^  at  those  who  had  given  the  name  of  OreSandto  a 
country,  whiilt  others  aswoUtfS  ourselves  bad  long  thought  to  have 
been  ridiculed  by  micb  •denominatiQo.  It  was  in  fiith  «Seen  hnd 
as  far  as  our  pres«,t  situation  was  concerned;  and  that  greJn  the 
jiore^UOng  fro»rthelan|5abse^coofall  but  sea  an4  skSS  Se 
desolation  ofice  and  rockf^bieh,  if  we  did  wA  see  at  thi  *^ 
we  knew  fuU  wel)  lay  all  around  us,  as  we  had  amply  w 

!?/kT!i-  °*?*1«*    ^o^^'»  it  free  Pf  the  wuaJ  accom 
of  a  hot  climate,  the  especial  torments  of  a  oortbern  sumnllfe'.Tn  the 
!!!r  i-T"^  **^  wosquitaes,  which  puwed  us  with  a  virolenee 
•vw^terthanmafty^f  „8  had  ofteJTejperienced  in  the  w4J 

tinSS'^°!!T*''f  ^'^^^^*»«*«**^t  thft  water  had  c4 
STlI^  ?!.*'*  '^^  ^^  b«t«jfew  inches  between  our  keel^ 

«lfT?'  I,  ^^'^  f f*.  **»  ^**^  '»«*  *i8»»t  feet  six  inchw  at  Ipw 

water,  though  somewhat  deeper  «stei»:  fiit  as  there  wasno  sw^ 

m»^y  prqsp«t  of  one,  w^  5^srti5ed  to  remlTw  we  ,J,J^^' 

The  approach  oC  any  boat  from^thg  iak^t  could  not  here  beweo. 


€ 


■»    !. 


,r^?~r-^,' 


•  ♦•kf->  ■.*■■ 


m- 


uookd  totaob  0»  mSCOVBlT 


^^yS^Umntt  f  "''r  f'^'r  --« taken  by  «,rpri«ii 

were  two  Euronln!  i^^hl         T  T^"^  P'^****  *«  ^"^  that  there 
of  Esquimaux  aS!  I  .**  j'^'^^J  ^'''^'^  **  ^"^  "^e^ned  to  con;S 

of  the  district  of  nSn^     '^^  "  H'®  EP^^^r^n^  ehrgymui 
who  we  we^  .L    k'^"*^*'  "■>'"'»  that  they  had  come  tol^no" 

ahiphad  ^ver  beeiTSStaJiSk^      '  '^^^  ^""*^'  '^*'"  '«>^ 
of  ••»   .«j  k-j  u       ■PPrf'^**'     We  seemed  about  tbirlv  Jt»rm 

iame  time  any  aid  that  vTm^lS^  •     ""5^*.  °*^""?  "■  «*  *e 

iooklS  wLCS^n>  J^>^  • 

had  fltruck  on  a  ro^k  near  iX?.*^  J?  •  ?*•*"■"»  "«*  /«>m  London, 

however,  that  her  main  keel  was  W^n  i«  ISl!!^         was  found, 
now  lay  a  wreck  in  the iSC;  Se^^^'^.P^^'ti  "^  **'  *^ 

char^je,  together  with  the  huB  and  rittnnfc  ^^  P^"***^» 


~-»iii.i*4 ,.-. 


t-    ...w 


■■n._j^ 


A-*-:--- „..j|g,_^  _^,     ,r7'i     ^    ,■ 


-^^^ 


TO  TU  ABCnc  BMlIOlMi 


ST 


profad  to  have  been  two  feet  too  short;  and  the  pprojeetBd  ivpair 
to  which  we  had  been  driven,  would  increase  this  deficiency  to  threo 
feetandahalfl 

The  governor  having,  on  my  announcing  my  consequent  desire- 
to  see  the  wreck,  kindly  offered  me  a  passage  in  his  boat,  I  embark- 
ed together  with  Commander  Ross,  that  We  might  inspeot  the  mast 
in  question,  and  determine  on  our  proceedings  respecting  it  In  the 
way,  these  gentlemen,  who  spoke  English;  communicated  to  us  the 
names  of  the  several  islands,  h>cks,  mountains,  and  inlets  which  we 
saw  in  passing,  as  I  shall  have  occasion  to  notice  in  the  place  appro- 

§  Hated  to  those  circumstances.  To  this  useful  information  was  ad- 
ed  the  most  agreeable  news  which  we  had  heard  since  we  had  left 
home^  confirnung  what  we  had  already  been  led  to  believe  from 
tiie  absence  of  ice,  and  the.  inore  ji^tifving  that  it  still  more  com- 
pletely justified  us  in  having  determined  to  prosecute  our  exj^ition 
this  summer,  notwithstandmg  all  the  unt6ward  cirbumstaiMeB  by 
which  it  had  been  obstructed  and  delayed 

We  were  assured  that  the  fn^sent  season  was  the  mildest  which 
hadJbeen  known  during  the  memory  of  the  oldest  person  in  this 
settlement,  and  that  the  precoding  one  had  also  been  uttusually 
mild.  >Vith  this,  they  declared  their  conviction,  that  if  eVer  the 
north-west  pasMge  was  diaoovtted^  it  would  be  in  the  present  sum- 
mer. In  detail,  they  stated  tibftt  thore  were  only  three  days  during 
all  the  latter  part  of  the  preeeding  year,  in  which  the  harbour  might 
not  have  been  crossed  by  a  boat,  that  the  thermometer  had  only 
been  for  one  day  as  low  as  miniis  18*,  and  that  since  that  time  it 
had  never  stood  beneath  9''  l^low  cero  (both)  of  Reaumur.  This 
was  a  great  contrast  to  the  five  preceding  years,  during  which  it  had 
Often,  and  for  a  considerable  timi^  been  as  lof<r  as  38°  below  ten  of 
the  same  scale.  They  also  addM,  that  although  there  had  been  a  good 
deal  of  snow  during  the  winl|er,  there  had  been  Very  little  frost  in 
comparison  with  tMe  ulual  course  of  things;  every  particular  con- 
firmmg  Uk  genei^'assertion  retipeeting  the  mildness  of  the  present 
summer^  ' '  •'..]:■  r-./..'-' ■  .j- -■.-"■  ■■.]-.:'.,■'.  ^'' ■■ - 

Having  proceeded  dioot  three  miles  up  the  inlet»  we  gained  sight 
of  the  flagstafl"  and  the  town.  This  opens  to  the  north-west;  being 
dn  an  elevated  spot  about  fiv^  hundred  yards  from  the  landing-place, 
w|uch  is  situated  at  the  head  of  a  little  creek*  that  by  its  curvature 
towards  the  south-west  is  hid  from  the  sea  and  forms  a  secure  basin 
for  boats  or  small  vessels,  ^hich  are  also  easily  taken  in  at  high  >, 
.'•wter.  ■.  ...  '.    ^  ^  ^j 

We  found  the  Rookwood  lvb|p  tjose  to  this  landing-place^  heeled 
to  starboard,  but  with  iKspiM  still  standing;  and  though  it 
was  not  at  that  time  lo^MMieBh  was  evident  that  she  was  com- 
pletely stranded.  We  lafide^^nder  a  salute;  an  honour  which  I 
.did  not  expect,  but  which  we  retohied  afterwards,  of  course,  as  soon 
99  an  opportunity  occurred.  We  were  received  by  Mrs.  Kijer,  who 
was  m  WMting  to  conduct  us  to  their  hospitable,  mansion;  and  in 


,-p,  , 


;^ 


# 


<* 


38. 


-y 


>f-- ' ,-. 


»»      *- 


*    / 


SECOND  VOJAai!  0»  DWOOVSHT 


'.'  \. 


islands.    FoSunatdySwWr^^^^^ 
J,    converse  with  this  4y  C«,f  L^^^^^ 

husband's,  extend  to /e  Snl'u«h  f      ^""^^edge  d,d  not,  like  her 

^        w^t  we  might  herfctsiS^^^^^^^^^^^  -ith 

Jhmgs,  and  served  by  Esquimau^  fpm^L^P^i  •    ®"*^°  ^""^  ««»«' 

but  far  surpassinKindeSHJ^tTf?      *^1°  their  native  costumes, 

cotaiunicaTion  c«*forS  Son^^^^^      ""^"^'T^  ^"^  »^^« ' 
-    .  profusion  of  beads  and  ?L.vT  °  I'  *"a  moreover  decbrated  with  a- 

'^^  After  dinnSt  uSjS  S^s^:?^  ??"*  handkercS^ 

.  Governor's  and  clereman's  Ton!!;        ?'  '^^'''^  consisted  of  the 

hakehousl.andabou'KrEsq\'S^^^  a 

b«,  t  of  wood,  having  a  groTd  Aofr  ««;*  -*  *'^**  hoU«i«  were 

'        dmmgroota,  a  good  fedro^  f^mljP  *'°"**"*'"«  *  comnfodious 

Governor's  havLan^J^!^„t,T'?).^'-^'»'^^^  and  a, kitchen;  the 

of  his  two  boats' ?rwran5rpill"'"%^^^ 
.      and  haying  cross  beam*  in  Vr^£*5^ti*5^^ 
,       SOguniship.    TheupnirSorrii!?-    T^^i^^^^t^^^'^cabinofa- 
yanta^teinl  a  speVeJ^rf^7    toX  r'^%^^^^^        *'^' 
. .    steeple  ^mty,hktsurmmntiT^' (hIL^I  ""^""Iu^  >«**'  "  •  "'"aM  • 

and  plain,  with' an  6i^X?^Z^^^^'''^'\*^^  ^°«de  h«mg  neat 
.      thoulh  the  formed  ^r^V^^'tfLTt'^'.'^'^  «t.tHeUer 
tepaired^-  The  church  S-ca3»    r       !*l  ^««n* »«««  home^o  be 

^ns   alS  is  weU^end^X  Jmn^"^"'^^  *'""**^  ^' 

'  EsqttimJux  and  ih  tha  Danilh  la         "*  *"**  J"^^*^'  *evi«  »  fee 
;  I  need  not  -7  A  J^e  Si,'ff  f  Z  f  «;'*«-»te4nday^  ' 

repeat  the  praise^so  welll^i?^"  !?  ^^^''^^^nj  "«  need  I 
.   Banish  Government  fSeir^Z  7      ?  1°  °*"  bestowed  on  thf  •> 
.Q^^nlandeA;  S  a^  bSe  W  f  °^  °  *^^  Welfare  of  thi 

^. which  has  attended  the  Kl^oft?i^^r"-^°'^«  ""«««»?     v 
,„^ujdertak.th.^,e,;^^ 

The«  i^  nTvifw  oTtEe^L;;te,"P/  ^^\°fj»»«  people  S 
:,  vJsiS.     It  iMefenVd  ffo/Cett  trhi^^i:^""'  '^^"^  •>«i««^ 
the  west  by  bthers,Io  asTbewelT  shSS  "^J.'!'  '.'^**.*'"°  fr«>^ 
from  the  sduth,  thi£h7tio!!olli?^"*'^?'  '^***^«»t  "  covefW      - 
called  theOld  wX^nVHoo^^nd  tt*^'  ^^  *"  *»"««  "'<'"nt.in    V 
•ldft>  hills  frbntWthe  LXur     Tt  •   i      *  P'^fP*"*  ^'^^  "^°«^  of     .; 
ali?.ost  a  ronS^snot    nev«L  i   ""  *""  *,  ^^^^  ifltereatini^d 
afence,  we^en  iSe^^^^^^  -  a^l^i- 

to  b^  V  ou  J  visit  S  an^rSni  *1- Jr  '""*^.i^  »'  '^»''"'««<» 
obtained  a  ftL  view  ofXe  L  »^H  t  '    *  ^?'*  "^"y  ^y«nd  it,  we 

jnterestingXitiW  landLrr^lVof  r/"*"  ^^f^'  ^°™'^  «» 
foijtiffl^f  better  onetth^^ol  aid  n-thf""'^^'?''"^  *' 
codMS::;'ai,c.rn  our  o^  f^C^^^^^  ^^^ 


^ 


-f*' 


■;V'f**™pr**,*.- 


cove;    The  E^uimaux  name  of  this  town  is^  TirUniak  Pudlit 
meaning,  as  we  underatood,  the  «  foxes' holes.'*  ' 

Proceeding,  aftw  our  return,  to  examine  the  Rookwood,  I  soon 
found  Uw|  some  of  he^  ttores  would  beli  valuable  aequtsition  to^ 
so  that  besides  the  plteasure  which  we  were  here  enteyine,  in  the 
only  dav  of  comfort  which  we  had  met  with  since  iwi  departure 
from  Woolwich,  we  had  also  fallen  on  what  was  as  good,  tbus  at 
least,  considering  our  few  wants^  as  an  English  dockyard.  The 
mizen  mast  suited  us  as  well  as  if  it  had  been  made  on  purpose  for 
our  ^remast;  and  the  proyisibnr'which  remained  unsold,  ¥fere  suf- 
hcent  to  make  our  own  up  again,  to  our  nee^fful  complement.  It 
tnus  gave  great  satisfaction  to  our  hospitable  friends  to'find  that  I 
should  lose  no  time  in  bringing  the  Victory  into  their  harbour:  and 
fcivmg  promised  to  dine  with  the  Governor  6ii  the  ft»Uowingdiy. 
wetook  one  of  hit  pilots  on  board  in  his  boat  **^^ 

On  my  return,  I  foupd  that  JVfr.  Thorn,  yhom  I  had  left"  on  board 
.  to  superintemi  the  necessary  operations,  had  already  got  out  the 
•  te'tfe''*'*  Z'^  'n^the  act  of  doing  the  same  for  tl^^il^n  mSt 
ho^!??  T  ^."*«  Sf»»»J«J»,I.Prepared  to  run  up  the  harbour,  by 
hoisting  a  topsMl  upoU  the  sheets  which  had  been  set  up,  the^ind 
being  fortunately  qmte  fair,  and  by  the  aid  of  warps;  under  whteh 

mLr^r"^? r*,.*^^  ^'''^*  '^'*  "**«  ^"^^  to  rings  Sn  the  rocks,^ 
'fiS^*K  r^**^  ^^  our  situation  being  withfn  a  hundred  yinb 
;  from  the  shore  on  the  east-side.       '  /«»« 

'  P«^li2f®***^]^*^  proceeded,  to  g^t'the  jniron  mast  out  of  the 
Rookwood;  and  about  nine  orf  the  same  fevening,  t}ie  Victory  was 
hilled  dongside  of  Je  wreck,  it  ^i„g  then  K  watet^-m 
Zi^  «opn  hoisted^out  >y  means  of  our  owninmasl;  when 
I^i*^i.%      J°  °"*'  ««>"°«8'attd  the  carpeirters  were  set  to  ' 
5^r    I  *®?;™°  bemg.s^nt  to  tajte  their  ftejir  hours'  rest  at"  onfe 
S.^  V±„^^  nft  day,  Jufy  24,  thev  were  employed  in  gettinj^n . 
the  foremast  and  forqtopniast;  and  Mr.  Thdm  went  on  shore  5^ 
gke  an  Recount  of  thS  pr^isions,  which  were  shi^d  off  in  the" 
■"•isenstem,  together  with  some  other  stores  that  wehad  selected 
RoJ  InH  ?!,?"« ''"'®'  ^  proceeded,  in  company  .^ith  Commander 
shT  whIk      S^Seo'Jr^o  a"  eminfence  o»  the  shore  near  to  the  . 
•hip,  which  commanded  a  complete  view  o^he  rocks,  shoals   and  w 
enb^ce  of  this  place;  When  sights  were^en^rVe  chVno- 
ToSi    ^*V  ^'"?  •^'"fidiarf  altitude  khhe  sun  by  the  artiS 
horizon.    A  series  of  angles  were  further  observJd,  for  the  purwS  ■ 
of  determining  the  positions  of  several  places,  in^i^    bu?3S 
Ton"2S?W  ^"^"^  ?*  °»o|guitoes,  which  far  exceeded  the  pe^cu! 
S.n.nl^^*'"  *^*^'  **'*  ",°'^«'"  '^*'»«»»  «^y  nephew  sufferedin  a  ' 
3K.l?*^;'^r'^r''*^  *  ^»»°  '"  't  that  abJses  Acerbfror  hil  # 
SS^Sa  wK*^  1*^'  'f''"'"^'  he  endured  from  these  pc^Hent 
•nimals,  which,  in  these  climates,  render  everv  jnom^nt  »  {n««l«i 

S>k  S-ry*--tire  attention,  -h^T^tXo  t^X^i'  " 
«ble  to  act  a.  4,^enjoy  ?    Let  ^hem  try  the  ^x^riment,  not  ?f  t 


tr  ■■' 


*,' 


*"■""•: 


~fw 


*      i 


!<  ■  v  ' 


.i'^'i 


.% 


.«.  »* 


■  w 


•» 


*n 


I' 


V, 


'■■■:% 


/^ 


0,1 


ny 


•..  **^ 


--»— **t 


;,  r 


u 


si     ^^g  . 


;-;,.'-hf  ■^•r^;'v;.;  *  ^ 


WSf!^. 


mi^mmmm 


m 


.■■•irt"'. 


JP 


ir 


»f^||P*^^|»%to^.,iij,^^^ 


»"l*P^3*«(^«MrliStV>.«» 


^'HK^^^4|*»;-f  y^^vijtiiifrti^i 


'2c^:!*:r^!?*^i^r^ 


r*!l^^iNi|>.lW-^^y 


i^'«%M«i^i'«.#|*-: 


h^n 


#f 


3f 


.i((i»"«»*4, 


Li^ile  ai 


'  fi^m'-Mmm^a^S^^&m 


We  furtber  "- iflii^iiH  i  If 


— 'J^ — .  ;?L^u__.i    — ,.  .  ''•':._l*.,  'V  : 


^i^ 


-■■<J 


;rwf>i*'#3ft 


K-'Wff'«*! 


Wfll^fflr^^ 


t It  regular/ 


••  •       / 


TO  THB  AaCTIC  RXOIOMB. 


41 


V, 


If  I  myself  wjtneiffled  nothing  tmt  the  most  perfeist  good  order  dur- 
ing our  short  stay  here,  so  I  was  infonned  thS  there  were  ^^ 
instances  of  immoi^ity,  and  that  the  general  character  of  the  tfre*n- 

i^m^nTS?  """^  '^^  ^'^'^  "  **»  ***">  »« »"«**•>««*  eveTof 
common  fighting;  as,  in  no  case,  were  they  the  amrressow- when 

s^jr'^  ^"^^ '''"""  ^^^^  "^"^  "*^"-"»»  ffi^:J;:; 

f  Ii/**^!J?**^®**  •"  ^^  Appendix  correct  accounts  o^th^  population 
of  Ae  settlements,  which  were  kindly  fumish^Kto  me  by  MrKUer 

No  one  expects  to  hear  that  there  were  treefin  the  GovWi- 
^den,  when  even  the  Shetland  islands  are  reputed  to  (ion  Jn  bur 
one;  but  we  found  it  cultivated,  with  salad,  widish^,  and  tanupi 

Here,  as  m  Lapland,  the  wUd  angelica  rfwunds,  a^  do  th«™S 
known  scuryygrass  ^d  sonel,  so  Sseful  to  a  people  w>m^S 

the  healthiest  season;  and  it  iS  insummer  that  their  cmJS^ 
being  pulmoniiry  or  catarrhal,  prevail.    Whether  tlfMe  areTS 

termine;  but  ^hepatientr  cannot  at  least  suffer  much  frem  rtedt 
cme,  since  the  nearest  taedical  person  is  two  hundred  miSs  Tat 

Sd'h'Kr**  «^«"f,«^' »»"  P'^ctice  is  not  extensive^noJ^h'  to' 
atlOTd  him  the  means  of  doing  much  harm.  * 

The  stepping  of  the  foremast  was  finished  this  eveninu,  and  the 

"IfftFUth,  with  all  that  had  happened  to  us,  a>d  all  that  had  occurred 
to  tease  and  prevoke  them,  besides  the  real  hard  work  whirth^f 
had  undergone,  mine  was  a  crew  whose  duties  had  B^n  as  lUUe  o 
ST^  ^^"  ^1^7  ^  fo"°d,  eithprjn  the  mval  or  Aimer- 
chtot  service;  whUe  if  they  had  a  right  toc&ctji  far  easieir  ,^^  ^ 
better  passage,  and  a  vova^e  of  no  Lk  tSSfutLTS 
tolls  and  troubles  up  to  tliis  point,  *,,  in  having  Bben  thus  S^ 

have  been  their  comparative  holiday  was  nowataii  enland  Zt  ' 

there  was  neither  murmur  nor  regret    Their  sdft  waTu^Jeariel.  ' 
and  thtiir  enthusiasm  as  lively  as  ever;  while  I  S^W  not  too^u^ v  ^ ' 
praise  their  steadiness  and  sobriety,  n<».  be  otSseia^Sd 
at  the^  amicable  and  good-temperei-rt«iner  with  wWch  Sly^n- 
ducted  themselves  towards  the  natrv«s.    I  do  them  but  bare  fusti^  /  • 
•  IPI™'^*^*'"!^^"  "°^=  '^th  but  little  excepK,   ndThat  1^^  ', 
ceeding  from  tke  most  unexpectedand  severe  suffer  ner and  diC-V 
pomtments,  I  found  far  more  reason  to  admire  tE  ?„  fiJr    ^"'^P"/ 
'T.;r^^t  "T  °'"'  ^"''^  SThave  foSn*!^  "  ""^  TW 
stiSl^ei^rrToiT'^**"  ''^^  '^'''  "^'"•"'"^  atsixi  the  crew  *eihg 
lS*3'Ir      ^•Tu^^^"»«"'^^"*'"8  i»  his  capoe  along?       r 
r^cr^ZZk^"^^  ^H  *^"  ^r  ^'^'"oneof  the.  boats, anil 
for  h;- i^^  ^  T^  VP     "«  «^»«  of  course  handsomely  rew^erf    « 
for  bis  honesty^;  .Rowing  >#  the  .ame  time  that^he  MM^JlTi^to- 


.  J 


.ft' 


■*,' 


*      FT,         .'1 


I 


48 


SECOND  VOrAOS  OF  OISCOVEHT 


2lr^   f  !u^  °5  °f  ^^  '^'^^y  clergyman  deserve  to  share  in  the 

Ki-  .??  *»«*  *^V*!!*^  (5ood  conduct  which  we  witnSLd"  hdt 

^  this  as  »t  may,  I  do  but  Justice  to  the  natural  character?/  tWs 

^    ^    T'^  every  where  within  our  experience,  to  say  thaUhev  «^ 

,     among  the  most  worthy  of  all  the  rude  tribes  yetloirwnToSr  voT 

•      agewjin  whatever  part  of  the  world.  «iown  lo  our  voy- 

Here  also,  I  must  net  fofjget  to  notice,  we  procured  six  Esoui- 

^f Jo««5  a  portion  of  our^moVing  force  thit  wew^re  likelJ  to 

«' wfi^S?  '^^ '^i^^'^.h-d  long  arrived,  and  jnfghTnStJn  wLd' 

J^ent  for  the  articles  ^hich  we  had  procdJed5vas  of  a  somewW 

the8tt«;lTt^*  0??  dogs  being  also  his  present:  and  as  far  a« 
V  2l  tJ?»      ^^Z"^*"  ^''^  "^^^^  °^  *e  RookWood  were  concern  J' 
Sc^^  S^'SooV'  ^  "^"^  V^^ ^^^-  ""^^ ^^^^^' 
t^^!^^  breakfast  we  went  oii  shore  td  renew  our  operations  for  de^ 

to  be  ^66  58'  N.,  »nd  tiie  Idnptude  53«^  54'  W..  bv  the  meanHf 
five  chrenometera.  The  goverLr  and  tiie  clergj^irpaSlTned 
mth  us,  and  g^ve  us  an  oppoAunity  of  showing  them  ffpi^^t 
arrangements,  together  with  those  which  we  should  hPoKi.^T. 

evening,  that  we  could  expect  to  be  in  real^^  to  piSceJj^      ^' 
w^  backed    «^^^^^^  the  mapificent  screen  of  mountains  by  which  U 


^♦• 


V       V 


:^ 


n^ 


I  knowiiothow 
veto  share  in  the 
we  witnessed;  but 
I  character  pf  this 

0  say  that  they  aire 
tnown  to  our  voy- 

>cured  nx  Esqiu^ 
we  were  likely  to 
tt  not  obtain  wjien 

1  usetous.  The 
^?B  of  a  someWhat 
il^rnon  yfaa  made 
aterpirtof  what 
nt:  and  as  far,  as 

were  concerned/ 
lish)  with  a  refer- 

>perations  f6r  de- 
buind  tile  latitude 
by  the  means  of 
ian*«  party  dined 
hem  our  present 
Id  be  obliged  to 
ght  gratify  their 
I  to'  take  an  intfr- 
n  that  shown  by 
•in  great  confu- 
'ttilliajeinthe 
procecid. 
pot  called  Lines 
iment,  taking  a  ,. 
lihs  by  which  it 
ters  to  England 
Dined  the  whole 
t  take  our  pro- 
.and  maritime 
5  was  every  ap- 
he  letters  were 
h  ship  that  had 
•ugh  whom  we 

(1  the  morning, 
,  was  aground, 
lock.  Ithere- 
uld  hiave  been 
lad  t  not  long 


•V      V 


■:\^ 


fi'!: 


r 


TO  TBB  AlM^TIC  BSiOIOirs. 


»' 


they  learn  to  sing  ev6n  the  moi#  reined  sacred  mtisiejif  the  Oer: 
man  school;  as  those  talents  also  had  been  wid^kr  cultivaterbvjSe 

nfti't  ^f?  subject  ott  which  my  opinion  and  expenei^is^  are,edually. 
of  no  value;  and  it  is  of  na  moment  therefore,  tto^  £,lh  in  SSS 
the  former  voyage,  the  tribes^  with  which  I  coTmJ^catS  jSnSd 
qmte  indifferent  to  music,  o^  insensible  t<.it,  as  Wfe  tlloS^hrTh^ 
authority  of  wch  a.  musician  as  the  one  whom  I  have  nav^U^tZ 
n,ount:  and- when  Je  Moravian  miss^naries  in  SraS,  ulSeKS 

taught,  m  addition  to  their  accurate  singing,  to  play  on  th«  violin 

-;!;'*  r' '^^^■*^»  *°  construct  their  owl  ittr^enCna^i^tan 

t  question  the^  inherent  musieal  talents  of  this  race,  though  AeXultv 

inay  not  belong  to  ever^  tribe.     I  presume  it  to  hi  pretty  weH 

known  that  these  worthy  missionarieThave  not  treated  Ei^b^ct 

Js  a  mere  ihajtter  of  amusement  or  curiosity,  but  thaTinlheT-^n. 

lightened  practice,  it  has  been  rendered  a  powerful  auli&i  ta  r^fil 

Ug.ousinstructi9h  and  civUization,  as  far. ^  civilizati^VpLft,: 

■  Th&"°*'*'''^r'*""T  as  those  underwhich  thesTt^STSS 
Thel^nolopists  may  h*e  seek  to  confirm  their  theory,  m  f^^ 

evt  Sif.:??r'  "",?;'  ^'^g^feculty  can  assist  tffi'but  wut 
ever  this,  and  the  parallel  case  of  the  Hottentots  under  the  same  ' 
toition  may  prove,  t  must  not  at  least  be  forgotten  that  the  JVW 
nans  have  be^n  the  instructora  in  each  ease,  and  that,  poMilbly  more 
merit  is  due  to  the  instructor  than  the  pupil.  #  ^  PO«jWy»  more 
rhe  clergyman  ifterwards  presented  toe  With  a  hymn  in  the  F«- 
quimaux  language,  Which  I  subjoin  f,r  fhe  sakeof  thr?ew  who  may 
iake  an  interest  in  this  wide-spread  tongue. :  T        ^^ 

.•        ^  -   KONpiVTINIK.  .** 

-  '.  1.       •    .        . 

"  ,        Am^rdlarsorsoangortikit  ,  '  ♦     \  ' 

°i  AtAtak!  Kongim  udloiei     -'  ^       ^ 

^     Taitaasa  pillfe  attatikit  ~ — =^— — — 

•  Paralugo  kotsiil^erme 

Tussirkit,  tuksiautivut 
Sajmaugitiglo  kpngerput!  '    '  -      ~ 


•••© 


«. 


■n 


The  translation  will  ^.  fa,ri^ 


Tennitarpin  op^rnarsusek 
ArsQtigein*liuk 
Tam^tigudlo  sajmarsusek 
IlligUt  noellunfteliuk 
Tussirkin-^!  K^nuUvut 
Sajriiaugiuglo  Kongerput! 


"A-^ 


in  the  App^Hdiib- 


i:^/.;:;j^;-^,, 


-     ^^  1.(11!      .    ftS.,.,  f   8  • 


';■/ 


ii 


>i 


I* 


'-' .,  » ' 


•  .  "^ 


-A_i_. 


•  HI' 


\ 


.;  ':^-  -^ 


i        <•».    *«'' 


t^r . 


■:ar 


aMOO^  VOTAOB  or  OUOOTXBr 


J 


The  breeze  being  at  lart  fair,  and  ourvesml  «<u«#  ;♦ 

««y  to  take  our  d^arture,  a8  we  !Surnot^l'^^lTL^ 
a  wngle  day,  nay,  scarcely  an  hour:  so  far  wm  tfiSL?  ^  ""!? 
and  8o  much  ground  lav  vet  bpforT.,-   J^  ^^°  ■^^*°***'» 

and  that  in  wLh.  wherever  it  mSi,?'  ^*^^T  ^"  P™*"'  P^« 
compelled  to  winter     CkUid  fSl^'**''*  *°  ^i  ^*^  «*»°»^«»  »>« 

^inIet,andwothrS,:Sr^S?t- 

this  tMtimony  of  gratitude  to  Sill«T      T  "»""'  """^  ev^  read  , 
happy  In  the  Jpporffi^Sreco^t;  L^lv  ^"^  ^  "«.  fet  lam 
disintei^sted  gSerositv  we  cm?l^^^^^^^  '*'°  t*»«ir 

returnySydnf SieTmKS^^^^  ^^"^'^^"g  «°y 

ceive;  refusing  every  SirffirS.l''r  *«y  '^ere  willing  to  ri 

it  ho;ever  infuSt  onX  ^  a^  ^"llT"^!^ 
service,  to  write  a  letter  StiZi^t^^^  *®  Kmg^of  England's 
panied ^  one  to U  Dan?8h^n^.w.^  ^^  governor,  which  I  Sccom- 
one  to  wWhVreSLndSZ^f  *  '""#  testimony  in  favour  of 
in  that  quarter  °  '''*'"'"«"'>«t,on  from  ^cqm  be  of  «,y  .arice 


«-■ 


^  ;..iL.i-.."=^i- 


■ji?. 


.In 


rr-. 


,t^ 


'-*.!■  :\ 


E 


*        3» 


f  i 


-'tS^'--    ,■     ■),> 


\  S':^ 


TO  TBf  ABCTIC  BSOI0V8. : 


45 


L 


■  -.? 


'    V 


CHAPTER  VI. 


.  -■  ■■.■..   ..,■■<■       ,  ^  ,..,■,     ~.i     ■ 

'  ♦kJ"/"^^'  ^'^*°«  ^"^"®^  "»'  Commander  Ross  contimied  to  tak^ 

i^S£lT5SL  h:Kl^"'"«*u^  position.  ofS^iS! 

ingi8land8,jrf  which  he  had  given  us  the  names-as  weU  aii  those  of 
S!tn^."*???"°?^"fP""^°'^*°"«'-   WeunderTodfromWrn 

out  of  ughti  but  Wt  puned  a  view  of  otheS  not  lesTS^^ifSS 

fi7JA.  It  bemg  no"  longer  necessary  to  call  at  Whale  MmA^  tiiof  . 
intention  was  abandone<f;  and  as  I  had  no  de^r^T  meet  Se  John 

40°,  and  that  oAheS^o  '  ^''^  temperature  of  the  air  was  I 

brokerwWchSdusrt^w  •  ^'*°^7P**  °^  *«  Kirusenstern  ' 


^r       »J 


,1l 


A* 


46 


In 


£'■ 


W""  \  SBCOND  VOYAOK  Of  DIBCOVEBT 

'^ihTw?"^^"!^.'"^^^*'' *•"'««•  ^"Obliged  US  to  heave 
lo,Vthat  we  mightYet  him  on  board  the  ship  and  put  him  under  the 
«urgeon'8  care  !^^at  this  time,  she  gave  a  heavy  lurch,  which 
earned,  away. the  tempdrary  topmast,  its  rigging  having  been  rather 

hannen^/i  T' ^^^'^4^''  "^^  ^^^  ^^^  topfaThowevS 
happened  to  be  just^then  lo^fered  down,  and  we  ioon  contrived  to 

Sr%K  1J?"^'  *r**  ^  "^^  "P  *  «P^  ^^'^^  '^e  had,  for  a  sub- 
S    n     il^f  "^^  aJso  agwn  secured,  and  we  once.more  made  all 

A    ""f^lat'tude  at  noon  was  69°.33',  and  the  longitude  54»  58'. 

As  we  J)roceeded  towards  the  shallow  water  of  Reefkol,  the  ice- 

«  Zrl"T^**7  rr  u^'  *"*  ^'^y  ^^'"^  ^°  general  smaller  afld  in 
a  more  decayed  state,  bemg,  also,  often  surfounded  by  fragments. 
We  passed  Cape  Chidley;  but,  being  as  we  were  nine  or  tenCes 
to.the  westward  of  it,  could  make  no  use  of  it  for  verifyWour 

w^orn^S'  ""^"'^  T  r^^^  "^'^^"^^  have  done,  becJusJthis 
was  one  of  the  places  the  longitude  of  which  we  had  j^rtained  in 

^^ZTu/"^"^-  i^'*her«°»W  we  approach  Whale-fishislSds" 
without  losing  more  time  than  we  coulJ^  now  spare;  especially  as 
Ae  wind  was  fair  for  us.  Even  among  the  icebergs,  ihT^mZZ 
tu^  of  the  sea  ^as  4  V°  at  noon,  and  at  Midnight  not  lower  than^o^;  ' 

to  nttf^'"^  M  *  "**  ??  ^"  ^"^  ^^"^  experienced  and  heard 
to  prove  the  mildness  of  the  season.  ' 

On  the  twent^^ighth  the  fair  wind'still  continued;  but  the  lofty 

a  tew  miles  of  it    The  place  then  nearest  us  was  Godhavn  bav,  I 

^^ll"!    T"*  f  .*^  aovernor^neral  of  the  Danish  settiTmenS  ^ 

A^wl^f;!*"^  '*  T.  *****  "^'^  *^"  "^»«*«^  «f  «»«  J°h«'  supposing 
Aat  we  had  proceeded,  was  to  luid  the  spare  fuel.     I  wa^  not,  how? 

?£  «JS  ^*"Sf  t!?y'  »n4as  it  w«i  more^er  nearly  impossibleXt 
A»  ship  could  ^^  reiched  .t,  though  she  had  made  up  a  new 
«ew,  r  considered  tAat  to  stop  there  was  a-purposeless  wasted 
Wd.  *^  ^^*^  ^heo  the  wind  was  so  fair  as  it'stUI  «>n- 

bhMt^^S^Lti!^X"'°l!I^  .**  stupendous  mounteins  of  this 
fiA    ^  tiM^gh  the  cleuHb,  forcing  a  splendid  sight:  and  we 
could  see  that  tfte  range  next  »  the  sea  was  is  clear  of  sno^^  IL 
more  southern  land  which  we  had  di^y  passed.     Even  A^nterror 
hills  were  but  jery  partially  cov««i;  d  CTvery  thing  eoSed 
to  favour  our  bopes  of  making  a  useful  progress  this  sea^nrrnTfte 
of  all  the  detention  we  had  suffered.     As  we  passed  along  the  iTnd 
we  took  angles,  in  oijer  to  ascertain  our  dista^K^e  from  if,  and  X' 
to  compare  these  with  ourjormer  observations  at  Hare  iiiaiuL  tha^ ' 
we  might  determine  our  true  powrion.  ^^^^  ^  ' 

r.Zu^  ^^^lii^^  '^'^  ■^'^  "»  ^  evening,  in  centre  beariw  #»  • 
north.  ,v  At  int,  it  seemed  entirelr  clear  of  snow;  anJ  it  i3IS 
till  a  nearer  approach,  that  we  »W  there  wa.  »me  remainiaTS- 

»  ^^n|p-»lheo  a  few  miles  northward  of  I*i«a,  and  aboia 


I, 


11  '<    • 

1  "     " 

1 

r'^ 

tt 

• 

,.  t,—.:i- 

ir^^'   ; 

■- 

J 

•*  *i' 


y 


/    TO  TBB\ABCTIC  RKOIOITS. 


47 


^d  us  to  heave 
lim  under  the. 
;  lurch,  which 
ig  been  rath^ 
)sail  however 
1  contrived  to 
lad,  for  a  sub- 
more  made  all 
itude  54»  58'. 
if  kol,  the  ice- 
mailer  aad  in 
jy  fragments, 
ar  ten  leaguep 
verifymg  our 
f  because  this 
iscertained  in 
e-fish  islands, 
especially  as 
the  temperar 
iver  than  40°; 
id  and  heard, 

but  the  lofty 
were  within, 
odhavn  bay,|i 
ettlements  in' 
Qj  supposing 
as  not,  how- 
possible  that 
ie  lip  a  new 
sss^ waste  of' 
}  it  stilt  con- 
tains of  this 
;ht;  and  we , 
snow  as  Uisa* 
I  the  interior 
ig  continued 
son,  in  spile 
ng  the  land, 
it,  and  also . 
i^and,  that 

bearoK  Am  * 


maini^  is 

;  longitude 

'■^*.' 

..^-^fzr^     ;^  ^: 

"    'M. 

twfelve  miles  west  of  it  Tlje  wind  held  on  fair;  so  that,  besides 
Hare  island,  we  also  obtained  at  length  a  good  view  of  Four  island 
point,  and,  brfore  midnig^Lcaught  a  sight  bf  Unknown  island  also; 
wurying  on  our  triangletiifRir  ap  Hare  island.  Forty  icebergs  were 
here  counted;  and  it.becomfflg  calm  for  an  hour,  we  got  near  to  one 
of  ^them,  and  were  tempted  to  get  up  our  steam.  This  however 
was  scarcely  done,  when  the  lair  wind  returned,  and  we  were 
pleased  to  have  lost  our  labour.  AH  these  icebergs  wer«  in  the  same 
state  of  w&ste  as  those  which  we  Wd  seen  before,  and  as  soon  as  we 
had  passed  them,  the  temperature  of  the  water  increased  from  36**  to 
42°,  and  that  of  the  air  to  44". 

29th.  The  wind  was  light  all  this  day,  and  we  therefore  took  the 
opportunity  of  getting  out  of  the  Krusenstern  the  capstan  which 
we  had  obtained  from  the  Rook  wood,  together  with  some  other 
articles,  in  order  that  she  might  be  towed  with  more  ease.  At  noon 
we  were  in  latitude  71*  1'  and  longitude  56°,  the  Black  rock  bearing 
north.  The  land  towards  the  sea  was  here  also  clear  of  snow,  but 
the  high  mountains  in  the  interior,  both  here  and  beyond  Jacob's 
bay,  were  for  the  most  part  covered  with  it  .The  tempei;ature  of 
the  water  was  41"  at  noon;  having  ranged  during  the  day,  from 
39°to42«».  „  ' 

The  moon  had  risen  at  on^  in  the  afternoon,  but  there  being  now 
little  wind,  we  attempted  to  take  advantage  of  the  enginfe;  and  in 
some  manner  or  other,  it  continued  to  work.all  night  The  breeze 
freshened  nevertheless  lat  rnidnight,  though  the  weather  remained, 
as  It  had  been  all  day,  bAutifully  clear.  OuRuie^aLia2>n4»l  was 
bent,  and  seemed  to  fit  well;  and  the  carpenters  having  worked  for 
these  last  two  days,  all  the  new  davits  for  the  boats  were  finished, 
and  they  were  hung  on  the  larboard  side.  The  temperature  of  the 
water  rose  to  46°,  In  the  middle  of  the  day  a  ^hip  was  reported  to 
me,  coming  down  on  us  with  all  sail  set,  nowj^  there  any  doubt 
about  the  natute  of  the  object,  either  with  thIKcer  of  the  watch 
or  Mr.  Thom,  as  indeed  the  same  opinion  was  eni|r^aiaed  by  every 
one  on-  deck.  My  telescopc'however,  soon  discovered  it  to  be  an 
iceberg,  being  one  ef  a  very  few  tiiat  were  in  sightat  that  time. 

We  stopped  thfteMine  when  the  breeze  had  sufficiently  fireshen-' 
ed,  and  passed  the  Black  rock  imder  all  sail;  having  a  beautiful 
view  of  the  land,  which  was  clear  of  snow  sear  the  se%  and  only 
exhibited  Its  white  covering  on  the  tops  df  the  loftiest  meuntains  in 
the  interior.     As  we  left  the  land  during  our,pr6gress,  the  iceberes 
diminished  in  number,  and  we  passed  a  blubbfer  cask  marked  Jane, 
with  some  pieces  of  punted  wood  that  seemed  to  ilwiicate  the  loss 
of  a  whaler  in  this  quarter.    It  became  suddenly  calm  at  four  o'clock 
making  us  have^recouj«  to  the  engine;  and  at  in<foight,«ander8on'8 
«ope  bore  nprth-ea^ showing  very  litUe  snowTtEe, temperature  6£  ' 
the  air  and  sea  bemg  both  at-42''. 

3WA.  There  was  a  breeze  to-day,  which  continued  to  increase  tiU 
00911,  when  It  moderated,  and  the  engine  was  put  into  preparation,  t 

: .   •         <' 


-X- 


J 


^  \  - 


lip 


i^^ 


..■» 


v. 


i- 


« 


-.'^ 


<    TT  '.'  WCOHD  V07AOB  OV  DUCOVXBT  - 

^JnS^^ff  ^iKl^^  "  "'I'^^^^J^  *°  ""*»  pur  auchineiy 
r^     v'^SBSP^  *^^hort  time  to  become  a  pretty  amart  jnle  nnm 

.^^S?  {"*"  '^  very  considerable;  thj«  indicatiMITStJ  o^ 
k  w J^„r'« '^  *?•*  "^""'Sh  the  weather  waa  tSfoJ  ^rTw 

^  As  had  been  the  caa^  in  dl  former  voyages  at  thia  aeaaon  of  the 
yearove  now  expected  to  meet  with  the  ic^,  &g  on  th^t  wh^ 
the  Hecla  and  Griper  had  found  it  at  nearl^  the  wme  datetnd^t 

ri8«4  'xo^u'rleliiSt.''"/?  *"1''"^  "^^  C  atoiSTlaS; 
7,         , .  V  ^'  °*"«nt»  not  leas  than  our  aumrise  there  wii«  nnn* 

on  board,  and  waa  taken;  and  being  left  t»  Contoand^RoL  to^ 
acnbe,  as  he  had  preaerved  it,  I  ne5i  not  anticSpSXt  SXeS 
oflhwnarnitiye  which  has  been  left  to  him.  R^lol?^^! 
.  a  turfle  dove,  and  haUed  it  as  an  auapicioua  omSifUe^^^^' 
pleaaed  to  encourage^any  of  the  nauU,2l  aupersuSs  whkT^rJS 

in  the  night  we  passed  a  berg,  on  which  there  were  many  of  the- 
birds  named  Xeme;  which  I  had  discoveiipd  in  my  formS  voya^ 
together  with  some  others.    The  temp^ture  of  the^  hliS* 

2'J;T,'  ?**.^'  ^"^""^^  ^'°  ^«''  ^^*  » longitude  oTeeo^  ^• 
anf  nffi.  •     ^e  commenced  a  new  month  with  a  clear  mominir^. 
«»d^|fcSig  in  sight  but  a  sol/tary  iceberg.    We  would  ghXS 
^8omewater,of  which  we^jere  beginning to1,e  inwan* 

'IT II  .•   1!°'*  ^^  longitude  65°  50',  the  temperature 

th.  ^.  .  A  y<^»8^t-. , It  was, in  every  thingllse,  a  summer  day • 
S  1^^^  *y  resembling  more  what  we  should  hive  ejected  fn 
the  Mediterranean  than  in  such  regions  as  Baffin's  bay  ^e  Wind 
at  length  came  graduafHy  to  the  weWard,  anT  ta  Sed  T^ra^- 
that  the  engine  waragAif  made  ready.  To  no  puSos^S^^'  ^" 
j^breezeaoon  sprang  up^in^  whil^  «,  one  of  tTO^Z^^ 
to  leak  once  more,  we  were  wfiU  pleaaed  that  we  were  not  SESn  ' 
2T  '-^h*"^  ^Tr"^^  the  <^rt^unlly  of  repairfag^  ""*  "^  ^"^ 

'  th«lJh  "^S^  freshenvg  in  the  same  direction;  we  stood  toward 
the  north,  with  one  icebefg  in  sight;  and  as  Sunday  rose  on  ^^  ^ 

_  proved  a  beautiful  day,  witii  a  slfy  of  tiie  utinost  l^i^t/Xeat^ 
toosphere  ti^nsparent,  and  tiie  seaV  smooth;  as  almost  to  leave  t 
witiiout  motion.  But  for  one  iceberg  that  was  in  sieht.  wT^^yi 
have  imagined  ourselves  in  the  summf r  seas  of  EngSS^^^S^ffiJ     - 

ZJlVfi'  tdM"/''  rr  "-^  **  ^^°-    The^latitude7not 
lZ.iiu     *^?  ^^  longitude  66°  49'.  .  There  was  pot  an  hour^ 
during  the  whole  day  that  we  cOuld  not  see  twenty  leagues  iU  roS 
us.    Dmne  service  was  performed,  and  the  reiainS^of  i?^    " 


sent 


#.< 


■•■\ 


•■  '\: 


'  pur  Jaachinery 
smart  i^e^  com> 
I  eastvrard.  The 
nt  there  was  no 
for  a  short  time^ 
and  taking  ad- 

lis  season  of  "the, 
1  the  spot  where 
le  date,  and  not 
t  a  month  later, 
there  was  none 
urs  had  elapsed 
lowntousilew 
ler  Boss  to  de- 
hat  department 
sailors  called  it 
,  we  ifjiwe  well 
L!yhish„S§ryed 
a  of  discussion. 
•e,  many  of  the* 
Ebrmer  voyage, 
e  sea  had  been 
e  of  66°. 
clear  morning,  . 
Id  ekdly  Mve 
;  to  be  in  want, 
I  it    At  noon 
le  temperature 
eontinded  un- 
i  summer  day; 
e  expected  in 
y.    The  wind 
died  away,  so; 
s,  however,  as  ' 
il«rs  appeared   . 
'■  Bot  caUed  on 

stood  toward 
rose  on  us,  it 
enity;  theat- 
st  to  leave  us 
ht,  we  might 
id,  though  the 
itude  at  noon 
pot  an  hour 
;ues  all  round  . 
ler  of  it  wall  ' 


// 


/y 


,■1 


■ '    ■  <^t> 

'  T6/^irB''AirCT»C  M01ONS.-     '"       '     ""     ^;         ^g,- 

made  what  we  always  wished,,^  pferiod  of  W-.  On  this  day  a  larm 
spot  was  seen  near  ^W.  centre  of  the  «u«r;  and  two  bottles  wfe?e 
t^own  overboard,  containing  our  sub^n^Hption  with  the  latitude  an4" 

3rf.  Like  the  prccec^ipg,  this  l^a»  -a  sumrticr's  day:  and  as  thei^  " 
was  aijentle  breeze  fr<^n,,  th^  nor^h  ^e  were  enablp/to  make  ^^ 
progress  to  the  westward  I?pthtEer^w^,*^veU.  nowficfdS! 
and  so  warm  <hd  Uie  wfcathfcr  feol  Xx^imKb^^^^^  wero  ^lad 
to  throw  off  their  jackei^/^Ad  wor^^^^^^H|L^!u-/i'r 
lay>  which  presented  ijjs  for  twefve^^^^^^^^^^* 
engine  was  kejit  at  work/ befti^  only . 
the  feeding  purijp,  and  partly  be^aUs^  , 

Our  latitude  being  74°  14^  dhii  li 
furthest  north  that  we  >^ere  lik^lv  to  t«, , 
board  to  commemorate  the  day^  a»d '  j  prej* 
under  the  possibility  )<|f  falling  jriWitb  som! 


// 


saits,  the 

to  repair 

fres^len. 

being  the 

.— ,^)wi4  pver- 

ror  England, 

iler,'/  At  iioon  the 


\ 


M  -  , 


V     " 


airwas44°  and  the  sea  4^^^  Wbil,  both  m,taed  X^^S^ 
a  n,,dn.ght  as  lovely  as  the  d^rbad  be^i^ai^d  «rhich  he  X  desfres 

4M.  Ha4  w^  been  inifo  West,! As,  I  cou^^ 
o^cScl^  **i;^'"°'"'^f^  at^X,:^erubbing  tji^d^^ks'Withput  shoes 

b^,t  Kr^K     ^  u  ^"™uP  ""^  %rg'"^<  ^'•^  completed  belbre  nine, 
but  the  starboard  boiler  began  to  leak  again  to  soon  after  it  had  been 
set  going,  that^we  were  oblige^  td  mal5  tis^^f  the  ,jtfc  b^S 
so  that  we  could  only  obtain  ten  reyolMtions  >n  the^miiiute,  iid^t  -  ' 
mlt  h^?"^  ^y^^\    Thus,  although  it  nrala  d^ad;  calm,  We  co^d  : 
nothW   .*  J?  .r^^u'  "^"""^l  ^"  *^"^?'^''*  y«t  this  was  ietter  tha»  " 
a^k  S\,^iit:^    "^^^  th,  engine  ^assuredly  as  smail " 

^Though  the  sea  was  smooth,  the  sky  was  etoy,ao  tJjai  we4o«Id 
obtain  no  observation;  and  the  temperature  of  the,sea'4as  one  dl  ■ 
gree  higher  than  that  of  the  air,  which  was;40«"  '^e  pas^Td  bel  ' 
tpen  two  icebergs  but  did  not  choose,  utider  the  preseKrcum-  . 
stances  tq  deviate  from  our  course  for  the  purpose  of  gettLK  water  ' 
^wP  hT- .  ^'^^"^r'l-nding  engine  was  IJ/^VKo^ol^^-^^  >^ 
as  we  had  stopped  the  leak  in  the  boiler;  and,^ut  five  o''<$lock  we   " 

«rS  *u  both  boilers,  but  with  only  one  paddle,  ofvwhich  we 

could  thus  co^and  nearly  fourteen  revolutions^  .Th^  peS  we^ 
employed  in  fitting  the  new.  capstan,  and  in  preparing  tHreholrf 
focST  ^.T,.^°'"«  «tor««;  «nd  one  of  the  stXs  was  ne^ly  su2 
few  ^iJ  "'t^'"^  «ome  sulphurous  gas  at  the  furnace  moutlJ  A 
few  n^rtlemokes  were  shot  for  the  do|s,  and  we  found  some  shr  mos 
aLarSr^/'-r  ^boutel,yen,the,^  being  a  3l?cK 
o- !u  1  u^  u*"*^?"  ^°'^  ^^^t  i"  ^he  boat  to  fetch  some  ice  for  ^ate? 
"ad^ott^^C^^r  '"f  Holsteinborg  was  Wpended  W^ 
had  not  ejaculated  on>ilSg  so  long  without  the  means  of  renewing 


I 


*.< 


■  ^       / 


y-  ■■•'^^sP^'t 


N'-- 


.'  'mf^  -**— 5. *—■"•:  i  J ■!'■•■■<)**> 


'tp/' 


t    ■.:?■ 


M 


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,  33  WIST  MAIN  STREIT 

W|BSTIR,N.Y.  MSSO 

(>16)  •72-4903  :, 


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^ 


50 


SECOND  VOTAOS  OF  DlflCOVEBT 


i    :  V 


It,  Since  we  had  always  met  abundance  of  field  ice  in  our  former 
voyages.  About  midnight,  a  smart  shower  of  rain  came;  beine 
much  more  welcome  than  the  snow,  which  would  have  been  a  sul^ 
stitute  for  It  in  our  preceding  voyages. 

^  5th.  At  one  o'clock  this  day  we  got  pretty  near  the  iceberg,  when 
the  boat  returned  with  three  tons  of  excellent  ice.     It.  had  been 
found  to  be  m  aatate  of  decay  ^and  it  was  not  long  before  we  saw 
It  fall  to  pieces.    The  wind  becoming  fair  in  a  short  time,  -the  fires 
wertf  put  out  after  the  engine-fiad  been  working  interruptedly  about 
fourteen  hours.     For  the  present,  the  boilers  had  given  over  leakinit. 
But  this  wind  did  not  lest  long,  and  at  length  inclined  to-the  south- 
west; so  that  It  was  again  set  to  worjc  and  kept  in  action  about 
twelve  hours,  heme  the  longest  period  during  w%ich'^^it  had  vet 
worked  without  a'ficident  or  interruption.    The  weather  was  clear 
and  pleasant,  and  the  wind  varying  more  to  the  northward.    At 
nooiv  the  latitude  was  73°  43',  and  the  longitude  73°  30':  and  at  six. 
we  had  increased  this4o  74",  being  about  sixty  miles  to  the  east  of 
Cape  Byam  Martin.    We  saw  the  land  looming,  but  the  view  was 
not  such  as  to  enable  us  to  recognise  it    At  §ight  a  fog  came  on, 
but  the  temperature  of  the  air  and  sea  continued  at  40°?  just  as  it 
had  been  at  noon.  "' 

,  The  carpenters  having  finished  the*  platform  for  the  new  capstan 
between  the  main  and  fore  hatchway,,  it  was  shipped  into  its  place. 
Two  icebergs  were  m  sight  before  the  fog  set  in,  but  wv  soon  lost 
sight  of  them  and  of  every  thing  else.  Some  advantageous  changes 
were  made  in  the  machinery,  in  consequence  of  which  we  made 
lulJy  thirteen  revolutions  in  a  minute,  with  a  velocity  of  more  than 
a  mile  and  a  half  in  tiie  h^r.  The  fog  tiiickened  much  at  mid- 
night; but,as  tiie  temperature  was  43°,  it  did  not  freeze  on  our 
"gg"»g>  M  had  happened  in  the  former  voyage. 

6M.  Being,  nearly  calm  to-day,  the  topgallant  toil  was  furled  at 
one,  and  the  topsail  lowered;  but  we  could  not  make  more  than  a 
mile  an  hour  with  the  engine.  At  tiiree  the  fog  suddenly  cleared 
away,  and  the  land  became  at  once  visible,  as  if  bursting  out  of  the 
clouds;  Cape  Byam  Martin  being  distinguished  from  tiie  rest  by  the 
grandeur  of  its  form.  All  the  high  lahds,  and  this  among  the  rest, 
were  covered  witii  snow,  witii  but  litUe  exception;  and  we  atti-ibutJ 
this  difference  between  the  present  coast  and  tiiat  which  we  had 
quitted,  to  tlie  circumstance  of  the  former  being  exposed  to  the 
dStimL*^    Possession  bay  bore  due  west,  about  fourteen  leagues 

A  light  breeze  now  came  from  the  westward,  so  as  to  oblige  us  to^ 
stand  north;  but  we  still  kept  tiie  steam  on,  while  tiie  engine  had 
conducted  itself  so  far  beyond  all  its  former  doings  as  to  have  been 
at  Work  for  twenty-four  hours.    Towards  noon  the  land  was  covered    ^ 
SL*  Jo  ^/  '."'*  ^^  ^"^  "o  ™°ro  o^  it  at  this  time.    The  latitude  was 
V3    33 ,  being  nearly  that  of  Possession  bay,  and  the  longitude  74° 


i^'-s- 


-.:: 1 


ia  our  former 
a  came;  being 
ive  been  a  «ub- 

!  iceberg,  when 
Il>  had  been 
>efore  we  saw 
time,  .the  fires 
ruptedly  about 
n  over  leaking. 
I  to'the  south- 
n  action  about 
clir^it  had  yet 
ther  was  clear 
Jrthward.  At 
30':  and  at  six, 
'  to'  the  east  of 
the  view  was 
fog  came  on, 
10",  just  as  it 

\new  capstan 
mto  its  place. 
w^aooa  lost 
^ous  changes 
tch  we  made 
of  more  than 
much  at  mid- 
reeze  on  our 

ivas  furled  at 
more  than  a 
Aenly  cleared 
ng  out  of  the 
le  rest  by  the 
ongthe  rest, 
we  attributed 
irhich  we  had 
[losed  to  the 
teen  leagues 


TO  THE  AHCTIC^ixoiOira. 


51 


I  oblige  us  to  ^ 
engine  had 

to  have  been 

was  covered 
latitude  was 

mgitude  74° 


/ 

1 


% 


rd  of  ihis  part  of  the 


4«',  being  about  thirteen  leagues  to 

'  « J^U  rtmS:d*?Bjldg;  TuilrtflA^^^'^'^  ^^^-^^ 

The  other  two  seemed  in  a^lSJf^sLra^  °"  '^  '"""'"'*• 

•  of  them  fall  to  pieces     SomTof  Ik  'if^  ^e.^^terwards  saw  one 

seen  in  the  mbr£nr;nd  irth^?   •r'"i  ^^  ?  «^»>ale  had  been* 
came  near  unSft'wetnto^tS^ffi^^         ^^  «^,  very  large  fish, 
the  dogs.    A  piece  JfsWn  Si«    T*  f"**  PT"«d  a  supply  for^ 
-hellfisf  adherer  to  it    fn  ^hl      T  '^'^^P''^^^^  "P,  Wiffl^W 
aciinst  us  anH  tho  o     •         -  *®  eve^mg  the  wind  was  directly 
^XfTedit  nuTtT  '^^PP"!'  "^  ''  ^««*hen  of  liwS 

perio"d1f4"fq^^r^^^^^^^ 

we  had  decides Tnd^^J^ fil"^"?*!: *"  «P°* «*  ^hich 

tmte  no  further  weJS'  fn^J^-     T  ^'^^  *^**  ^«  *=0"'d  pene- 

inmy  Journal  th:rerL^Srh  r4*'S;S  Sl'jlf  t'"1''^^ 

beZheldw1d?reJ'^'rit»'  TH^sTr  ^^"""^  "*'^'''»  ^'^^^ 
guou8,at  least;  and  eiXer  from  fh?     T''^*'  "  wmewhat  ambi- 

infen4d  by  soie "f  Ao^  i^^n^^^LT^^  ^'^  ?*^«">  ^^  ^^  been 

coveries  aid  pn)ceedb^YZt"  otS^^^^  S  ''''•  ^'^ 

was  opposed  to  mino  iJk«^  ""yara^tnat  s>ir  Jiidward's  opinion 

expedfff  UnZ'sC^a^^XsrXr'  **'«^"'«^°'^  *'*«"" 
to  have  perceived,  that  aJ  a  IS^r  of  tofcT^  ?«^^  *'«> 
expressed  that  difFei«n«#.  «f  «  •  •       .   ^^^T^e*  he  must  have  then 

a-  my  assocUted^So^riuti  J^^^^  ""  "iT"^  *^'  ^««  his  dut 
will  have  furtherSmSTh«r^^^  «»d  thence,  I  presume,  thi^ 
opi^ition  to  n'dSHpintt "  "H*-  '  ^^^  ^P^ceededl 

«ndecd;:d^fo*J\niJ'r'rxr^*  t  p*"°"-  •"^-'^^ »« 

knowhtome.andirm»£flf  u  *'I"®  "**^^  any  such  opinion 
entert^n  T^S  ^.S^^wtl-*^  to  conclude kt  he  L  not 
through  LancastenSund  n.^  iT       ^iT***  *  **»'  ^^'e  ^^  a  passage' 

1»  officer,  were  I  to  im^SHhat  wh^#  "^  «~~  misconduct  m 
mand,  he  suppressed  J2S«  •  •       5  °  "®  ''"  ™y  ««cond  in  com- 

which' wt;e»'ss'.„'s;srz,*3,T''rt°  t.  "-'^^ 

nion  which,  on  accountS  J#- L     I®  u '<  *""■  '^^  coAceded  an  opl- 

•trongly  hjs  dutJ^to"Lv«  <!  ^^  **'«'*  '^P"  '*'"'««'  ^^««  the  more 

«fficefUoLSg^to*^ii;?J^irK^  *f^^  "  «*«•*  a  «nri^ 

«e  in  opmion  at  that  time  is  W  equally  cenaumble; 


y 


■ii' 


■ 


Mffi 


lift 


leCONI>  VOTAOE  OF  DISOOVEBJ 


since  it  was  incumbent  on  all  to  have  stated  to  me  what  they /be- 
lieved or  thought  on  that  leading  object  of  the  expedition. 

•It  is  possible  that  I  may  not,  even  now^  influence  or  alte^  the 
conclusions  to  which  I  have  thus  alluded,  since  it  is  in  human  nature 
to  adhere  to  judgments  once  formed,  and  sO  long  uncontradicted ; 
but  I  can  here,  on  the  very  spot  itself,  where  ever^  recollection  ■ 
seems  but  that  of  yesterday,  reassert  with  thejniost  perfect  /confi- 
dence, that  no  officer  then  expt%ss^d  sthy  be|iepfhat  there  wa»a  pas- 
sage through  this  opening,  or  Wen  suggi^H^  a  hint  to  tliac  enect 
So  far  from  this,  I  was  led  to  infer,  by  the  general  remarks  on  board  of 
my  own  ship,  and  by  the  expressions  of  those  who  considered  that 
they  had  more  especially  a  right  to  be  consulted,  that  I  had,  accord- 
ing to  their  opinions,  already  proceeded,  4»ot  merely  fai*  enough,  but 
too  far.  >^  / 

•*  It  is  further  true,  and  I  must  repeat  it  in  this  place,  that  even  if 
the  opinion  of  my  second  in  command  had  been,Vhat  by  many  it 
has  been  supposed,  the'reverse  of  my  own,  which  it  was  not,  I  was 
perfectly  justified,  by  my  instructions,  and  by  the  c^umstances  in 
Which  the  expedition  found  itself,  in  acting  as  I  did.  Those  orders 
were  clear  and  decisive:  not  only  was  the  season  passed  for  penetrat- 
ing further  through  the  ice,  but  it  was  my  imperative  duty^  as  it  is 
with  ev^ry  officer  in  command,  even  if  I  hild  not  received  tiie  orders 
to  which  I  have  referred,  to  attend  to  the  preservatioti  of  the  at^pa  . 
and  their' gallant  crews. 

*  It  is  unquestioned,  at  the  same  time,  that  the  whole  space  to  the 
westward  of  the  ship,  at  that  period,  was  filled  with  ice,  so  that  we  ' 
could  have  penetrated  "but  a  few  miles  further,  even  had  we  made 
the  attempt  Nor  do  I  think  it  in  the  least  probabl6dii|||a  the  ap- 
pearance of  the  distant  land,  as  it  is  at  this  moment 'UflBprore  me, 
that  my  judgment  respecting  the  nature  of  this  opemnf^^uld  have 
been  di£lerent  from  what  it  was  kt  the  time  we  res(])lved  to  give  up 
this  puKsuit,  even  had  I  then  approached  nearer  ip  the  edge  of  the 
ice.  It  is  well  known  that  the  appearance  of  the  land  ^n  the  icy 
seas  is  often  very  dec^tive;  and  when<.(j|pok  himself  had  formed 
wrong  judgments  of  it,  on  more  than  oi^  occasion,  it  is  a  sufficient 
proof -that  Sie  difficulty  of  judging  truly  must  often  be  very  great,  if 
not  insuperable."  But,  in  reality,  the  whole  history  of  navigation 
abounds  with  similar  eh-ors  of  false  conclusions;  they  might  be  col- 
lected in  hundreds  by  any  one  who  chooses  to  search  for  this  pur- 
pose. He  must  be  little  conversant,  Indeed,  in  this  kind  of  reading, 
who  cannot  recolles|r  jinsta^ces  iii  abundance,  even  without  the 
trouble  of  a  search;  and  Instances,  of  course,  where  the  error  has 
been  only  detected  by  the  better  fortune  or  greater  success  of  jiubse^ 
^ent  navigators.  .  \ 

*  I  inight  have  said  all  this  long  ^,  and  I  would  have  done  so, 
had  I  felt  that  I  was  in  justice  called  on  lor  a  defence  of  my  opinions 
and  proceedings.  Knowing  myself  tcNbe  right,  I  adopted  that 
course  which,  although  the  most  difficulty  is  evier  the  best    I|j[or 


-A 
■I 


...:VfeL 


■'#'■ 


'*.   <P>. 


TO  f  HB  ARCTIC  RBOIONS. 


53 


should  I  have  broken  thiit  silence  now,  or  have  recurred  to  this  his- 
tory of  times  long  past^'^ut  that^e  spot  recals  a  lively  recollection 
of  the  various  trying  emoti9ns  of  ^Ijtiph  it  has  been  the  parent,  and 
at  the  same  time  gives  me  more  thian^hQpes,  that  the  effort  which  I 
am  once  more  making  to  solve  thfe  ibportant  probleip  before  me 
may,  if  ever  I  return  to  Englah4,  be  received  in  a  very  different 


manner.' 


:A  ': 


/ 


'% 


v-.«  ^. 


:.•< 


■'■ 

/ 

\ 

'    ; 

.,    .     ^        ,,  ., 

>     • 

■,'"■■- 

/     » 

w 

\    •' 

t 

■     ..    .       ' 

/ 

\ 

'\ 

' 

J 

' ' '  7 

• 

^'    y 

■i<  1 

a 

• 

# 

■     f 

• 

• 

t 

1       1 

■  / , 

•      '                  / 

— ^ 

K' 

'  /  -' » 

» 

s..      ' 

-*■"-« 

^-^■' 

---^ ---^-^ 

— ;-~ '— 

-'—-—-- 



_. __ 

-^j : ^ . ^_.:,, 

■■"    I, 

7 


/ 


I,   :  t  * 


■  v.- 


'54 


■\/ 


ECOND  VOTAOK  or  DISCO VXBT 


CHAPXER^VH. 


s 


V 


\ 


\ 


Progress  down  Lancaster  Sound'— Sight  of  Catharine  and  sk 
zabeth  Mountains — Pass  Cape  Yorke  and  steer  for  Prince  Re- 
g fit's  Inlet— Cape  Elwin  and  Elunn  Bay— The  Compasses 
c^e  to  traverse — Discover  Adelaide  Bay— Approach  to  Fulry 
f each— First  sight  of  the  Teikt  Poles  Uift  at  the  time  of  the 
vreck — The  Victory  moored.  \  ,  \  . 

wStt^.  7M.  The  ship  made  about  folir  mile's  of  nbrthing  in  the  moi  n- 
ing,  after  which  it  fell  quite  caUnl  mA  the  vessel's  head  to  the  nor^** 
ward.     Several  icebergs  we<fe  irt -flight,  and  a  boat  was  sent 
another  load  of  ice,  with  whicKS|e  i^tuijijed  about  one  o'cloi». 
The  boilers  were  then  filled;  afl^  flife  en^hfe  being  clean  and  ready, 
was  set  on  about  three.    We  only  obtain^  ten  revolutions  inta 
minutejj  propelling  the  ship  against  a  light  air,  at  the  i4te  of  a  mi 
and  a  quarter  in  an  hour;  not  being  able  to  raise  the  pi«ssure  of  " 
steam  beyond  thirty  pounds  on  the  inch.  , 

At  lioon  we  were  in  latitude  73"  50',  having  made  twenty  miles 
northing;  and  we  distimated  the  longitude  to  be  the  same  as  yester- 
day, as  we  had  no  sights  for  the  chronometers.  More  krang,  with 
some  blubber,  was  pipked  up  for  the  d«^s.  The  land  was  seen  on 
each  side  of  Lancastei?*  sound,  and  our  course  was  about  midway  be- 
tween the  two  coasts.  The  day  was  cloudy,  and  a  few  drops  of 
rain  fell;  the  temperature  being  40*',  both  at  noon  and  midnight,  for 
the  air,  and  the  water  alike.  It  was  so  warm,  that  although  we  re- 
ceived none  of  the  heat  from  the  steam  -fengine  into  the  cabin,  we 
found  it  agreeable  to  dine  without  a  fire,  and  with  tHe  skylight  half 
oflF.  It  is  true,  that  the  thermometer  did  not  indicate  a  summer 
temperature  for  England;  yet,  to  our  sensations,  the  weather -was  as 
mild  as  it  would  have  seemed  Tlhbre,  with  a  heat  of  sixty  degrees. 
Many  mollemokes  had  been  seen  during  this  and  the  preceding  day; 
collected,  doubtless,  by  the  fragments  of  the  whale  that  were  float- 
ing about 

8th.  As  the  whole  of  this  day  was  perfectly  calm,  the  engine  was 
in  constant  use;  with  exception  of  some  interruptions  in  cleaning 
out  the  furnaces,  and  some  other  causes  of  hindrance  which  I  am 
now  weary  of  repeating.  Eleven  revolutions,  which  were  all  that 
we  could  produce,  gave  us  a  mile  and  a  half  in  the  hour.    As  it  wa& 


/^q& 


Hne  and  Eli- 
or  Prince  He- 
ie  Compasses 
tach  to  Fury 
B  time  of  the 


I  in  the  mO][n- 
Itotheno) 
was  sent 
one  o'cloi 
in  and  read 
olutions  in  la 
ttte  of  a  mi! 
ressure  of 

twenty  miles 
me  as  yester- 
}  krang,  with 
was  seen  on 
t  midway  be- 
few  drops  of 
midnight,  for 
Plough  we  re- 
he  cabin,  we 
skylight  half 
te  a  summer 
eather.was  as 
ixty  degrees, 
eceding  day; 
it  were  float- 

e  engine  was 
I  in  cleaning 
which  I  am 
neere  all  that 
.    As  it  waa 


„  JR/ 


-7 


7- 


TO  tbm  arctic  BEOIOirs. 


\. 


«5 


loOdy  at  n<*on,  we  did  Bot.o|bt|tn  a  meridian  altitude,  noj*  did  we 
se  tl^  land  until  after  a  very  ea^y  hour  in  the  morning,  and  then 
J  "a"*'"*'*'^'  ^"  ^^^  forenoonj-we  procured  a  boat's  load  of  ice, 
nd  el^d  the  Krusenstern  of  tWenty-eight  bags  of  coals  and  some 
imbfer.  V  The  air  was  at  40<»,  and  the  waterj|«;  but  the  latter  be- 
( ame  40^180  at  midnight,  though,  for  a  short  time  in  the  evening, 
1 1  had  be?h  at  36",  m  consequence  probably  of  the  vicinity  of  some 
icebergs.    \ 

Th6,  foretold  was  restored,  and.  made  ready  for  receiving  addi- 
tional provisions,  and  .we  also  obtained  some  more  water  in  the 
<  venmg.  As\  the  sun  declined  to  the  northward,  there  was  an  ap- 
f  earance  of  wind  in  the  clouds;  4j/d  at  ten,  a  light  air  arose,  so  as  to 
i*duce  us  to  8^  all  ^ur  canvass.  The  remains  of  whales  were  still 
I,  in  various\  directions,  covered  with  moUemokes,  and  we  also 
Tved  a  flockW  ducks,  and  itome  of  the  ivory  gulls.  The  water 
led  crowded  With  minute  marine  animals,  and  afforded  us  some" 
;imens  by  means  of  the  gauze  nets.      ' 

luring  all  the  Ikst  week  the  utmost  anxiety  was  expressed  by  ali 
on  Hoard  for  a  faiit  wind;  and  our  impatience  to  profit  by  the  fine 
weattter  m^de  the  i^serable  performance  of  the  engine  more  griev- 
f^-:,  Aj^i*^*  was  a  frequent  subject  of  exe^raUon,  I  might  guess,  if 
Wid  no\hear  it;  and  if  the  constructor  received  his  share  also,  no 
one  couldNhave  expressed  much  surprise.     It  required  constant  and 
minute  atteJHjon  to  peVsuade  it  to  work  at  all;  as  even  with  all  the 
goodwill  of  tl^orkm^n,  my  presence  was  for  ever  required  in  the 
engine  room,  iflsbmuch\that  J  was  scarcely  allowed  to  sleep.  It  may 
^ell  then  be  believed  thW  the  appearance  of  a  breeze  fronithe  east-  : 
^ard  was  looked  for  with  the  utmoit  solicitude.    Every  hand  was 
*  u"?  *^  ?i.^^  *  ^""^  "^"^  coming,  every  clpud  and  fogbank 
Uched,  and  all  prophesied  according  to  their  hopes  or  fears,  till 
»v  were  feirly  driven  off  the  deck  by  the  necessity  of  turning  in 
leep.    Had  we  been  less  anxious  ourselves,  we  might  .have  been 
amused  by  observihg,how  the  charactfers  of  the  men  influenced 
ijonduct  on  this  occasib#    Tho^  of  an  eager^disposition  were 
contihuaUy  watching  the  eastern  sky,  to  discover,  in  the  changes  of 
the  cM»uds,  or  whatever  else  might  occur,  the  first  promise  of  a  fair 
wind;  While  the  despoi^dingcharactfers  occupied  the  bows,  l^okine 
m  gloomy  silence  at  the  ^ark  sea  and  sky  before  them,  and  njrkini? 
wen  without  a  word,  thfeir  deijpair  of  our  ultimate  success,  or  thefr 
fears  thak  our  voj^gewaA  about  to  come  to  an  end,  at  even  this  early 
midnight,  howler,  every  symptom  of  a  wind  from  the 
^  to  show  Itself;  the  despairing  few  recovered  their  spirits, 
itisfactipn  of  the  hopeful  was  at  length  diffused  throughout 


th 
to 
mor 
their\ 


fears  tha^t 
day.     A 
east  be 
and  the 


the  ship. 

oJ!^  '^^i  welcome  wind,  which  had  at  last  arrived,  gradually  in- 

o^S^'tlSuS;  J"  "^J  "1?  "*"  engine  kept  inaction  till  iree 
o  clock,  though  by  considerable  exerUons  of  the  iflen  at  the  bellows. 
The  weather  stiU  felt  mild,  tl^ough  the  wind  wiS  east;  and  rS 


m 


m 


i/:.. 


-._3H^_ 


"V 


56 


SECOND  VOTAOE  OR  OISCOyERr 


II 


>■  ^^  i 


'm^ 


men  had  undergone  much  fatigue,  they  were  sent  to  rest  after  divine 
service.     1  he  latitude  was  observed  at  74»  1 ',  and  the  longitude  by 
the  chronometer  was  77°.     No  ice  of  any  kind  was  in  slg{it;  but  the 
snpwy  tops  of  the  mountains,  and  particularly  of  the  two  remarkable 
ones  former^  nam^Catherine  and  Elizabeth,  were  seen  rising 
above  the  cl^ds.     The  course  steered  by  the  compass  was  here 
north-north-east,  which,  under  a  variation  of  114°,  led  us  directly 
up  the  sound;  making  thus  a  course  nearly  west     In  the  evening 
Cape  Liverpool  *v^  also  seen  above  the  clouds.    At  noon  the  tem- 
perature of  the  air  and  the  sea  equally,  were  at  40°,  and  at  midnight 
It  subsided  but  one  degree.    That  the  present  cheeriness  of  the  crew 
might  want  nothing  that  we  could  add  to  it,  they  were  served  with 
a  dinner  of  fresh  beef  from  our  Galloway  bullock:  though  the  warmth 
01  the  weather  now  began  to  make  us  fear  that  we  should  not  lone 
preserve  the  remainder  in  this  state. ^  ° 

10th.  During. the  night  both  the  northern  an^  southern  sides  of  > 
the  sound  were  insight,  though  obscurely;  but  >»  the  morning  ad- 
vanced the  wind  freshened,  and  it  became  so  thick  that  we  lost  sight 
ot  them,  and  were  unable  to  obtain  any  observations  at  noon.  "Rie 
sights,  however,  for  the  chronometer  being  near  thjB  prime  verti(»I. 
our  longitude  was  pretty  well  ascertained.  At  elevSi  we  had  passed 
Cape  Charles  Yorke  on  one  side,  and  Cape  WarrendW  on  the  other, 
and  as  It  was  sufficiently  ^lear  to  see  two  miles  frorii  the  ship,  and 
no  land  was  discernible,  *ye  hauled  in  to  the  southward,  t6  make 
Cape  Crawford,  intending  to  run  along  shore.  \ 

At  five  it  was  actually  seen  on  the  starboar?!  bow  about  two  miles 
oo,  which  cdmpelled  us  to  haul  immediately  to  the  northward*  ahd, 
when  It  had  cleared  a  litle  more,  we  found  ourselves  nearly^«ta-^ 
bayed,  and  surrounded  With  fragments  of  icebergs  and  land  ice.   We 
sounded,  and  at  first  had  fifty  fathoms;  but  in  a  quarter  of  ap  hour  it 
shoa  ed  to  twenty-five,  with  sand  and  shells,  our  ship  beiimihen  but 
a  mile  from  the  nearest  projecting  paint.     The  swell  haWich  in- 
creased; and  as  we  neared  the  land,  which  Was  now  seen  to  be  moun- 
tainous,  thi^ind  failed  us;  while,  owing  to  the  heavy  motion  of  the 
vessel,  she  carried  away  her  main  toom,,  breaking  it  into  three 
pieces.    Our  situation  was  "indeed  at  one  time  very  uncomfortable; 
savre  were  taken  aback  three  several  times,  ihd  w^re  carried  by  the 
swell  much  nearer  to  the  shore  than  was  at  all  desirable.    We  were 
indeed  preparing  to  anchor,  as  the  only  alternative  left,  when  the 
wind  suddenly  returned  to  the  oM  quarter,  and  we  weatiiered  the 
point  ■>  , 

^o  aid  us  through  these  difficulties,  we  got  the  steam  up  in  an 
unusually  short  time;  but  this  Unexpected  breeze  rendered  it  unne- 
cessary to  have  recourse  to  the  engine.  As  the  temperature  ofi  tiie 
water  had  fallen  to  32°,  we  had  warning  to  keep  a  good  look  out; 
and  I  must  not  forget  to  record  the  good  conduct  and  activity  of  the 
•crew,  m  Uiis  as  in  all  the  previous  situations  in  which  we  had  been 
m  a  hazardous  position. 


i;'  J  a  I  ■ ,        ;  — ji      ■  /  .  '  ■ . 

r\i   t  '     -■'  '  ■  '        '  ■  ' 


ii 


■•■/ 


'TO  TBK  ARCTIC  BEaiONIi; 


A7 


The  mainsail  was  soon  set  again,  without  its  boom,  and  we  thus 
got  entirely  clear;  when  we  bore  up  along  shore,  with  a  fine  breeze 
Irom  the  east-south-east,  but  edging  off  a  little  to  the  northwanl  till 
^  eight,  when  we  had  gradually  gained  a  sufficient  offing  to  enable  us 
to  steer  according  to  the  trending  6f  the  land  to  the  westwaid.  At 
three  we  jSw  Cape  Yorke  bearing  north-north-east  An  examina- 
tion of  the  engine  at  this  time,  showed  that  a  quantity  of  coke  dust 
had  been  deposited  in  the  airpipea,  and  that  both  the  feeding  pumps 
.were  again  out  of  order.  The  cleaning  and  ordering  of  these  things 
occupied  us  for  six  hours,  and  by  midnight  the  breezftiwas  fast  in- 
creasing. 

,  llM.»Tlie  weather  this  day,  although  foggy,  was  not  such  as  to 
prevent  us  from  keeping  sight  of  the  land,  and  at  six,  while  passing 
Cape  Yorke,  a  peaked  hill  was  recoj^nised  by  Commander  RossT  We 
now  met  with  a  stream  of  heavy  ice,  but  found  a  good  passage 
through  It;  aad,  before  noon  had  passed,  through  the  opennigBof 
three  others,  much  larger  than  the  first  At  the  same  time,  itfor- 
tunately  became  sufficiently  clear  to  enable  us  to  see  our^y,  and 
•too  to  get  a  good  observation  at  noon;  when  we  found  the  latitude 
*  to  be  73»  40',  and  the  longitude  84"  23'.  After  this,  we  found  no 
taore  ice  of  any  conseque&ce,  and  were  able  to  make  a  direct  course 
for  the  south  side  of  Prince  Regent's  inlet 

Accordingly,  at  iwo  in  the  afternoon,  we  made  the.  land  between 
Ca^je  Seppings  and  Elwin  bay;  bearing  up,  and  saUing  along  shore, 
as  86on  as  we  had  approached  it  within  three  leagues.    The  wind, 
which  had  been  gradually  increasing  for  some  time,  became  so  hard 
a  gale  at  four  o'clock,  as  to  reduce  us  to  a  dose-reefed  topsail,  upder 
which  we  were  now  compelled  to  scud.    The  sea,  which  had  been 
comparatively  smooth  among  the  ice,  rose  also  as  high  as  we  ha4 
seen, It  during  any  part  of  the  voyage;  and  as  the  wind,  being  n^^ 
from  the  nortii-north-east,  blew  directly  down  tiie  inlet,  the  \MM 
afforded  us  no  shelter.    We  tiiere(bre  prepared  our  storm  saUs,  and! 
made  ready  to  lie  to  under  them  for  the  night 

When  about  ten  miles  to  the  north  of  Ahe  place  where  tiie  Fury 
was  wrecked,  and  near  Elwin  bay,  we  obtained  some  good  observa- 
tions. In  running  down,  we  perceived  some  of  the  land  ice  still 
fast  m  tiie  bays;  but,  except  a  small  iceberg,  Uiere  were  no  outstand- 
ing masses  on  tiie  shore.  At  nine  we  passed  Batty  bay,  after  which 
we  met  ice  of  a  very  different  character  from  tiiat  in  Baffin's  bay, 
being  much  more  uneven,  and,  generally,  tiiicker;  and  from  its  ap- 
pearance  we  concluded^  tiiat  not  only  tiiis,  but  most  of  what  we  had 
just  pass^,  was  tiie  produce  of  tiie  previous  year,  and  had  been  now 
broken  off  from  tiie  shores  nortii  of  Prince  Regent's  inlet  As  soon 
as  we  had  passed  tiw}  streams  of  ice  already  noticed,  tiie  temperatoro 
\o{  the  water  at  tiie  S&rface  rose  from  31 «  to  33°,  giving  us  hopes 
that  we  should  now  see  no  more  of  this  kind;  while,  althoueh  we 
had  tiie  prospect  of  being  obliged  to  lie  ,to  for  moderate  wSither. 
Ve  considered  tius  gale  to  be  much  in  our  favour. 
8        . 


.* 


-•'■  <w , 


■nT 


1 


/ 


*/         {' 


jS'- 


'^1 


>'«««Wt«»»T. 


•■»-»..,..-. ."^^,..,,J 


08 


SECOND  VOYAOB  OF  DISCQVWir 


w«^iSSS?*r"°'*^''^'^""'«  Mil  till  midnight,  at  Which  Umc 

Ae  hU  of  ?  •^"''"i?'"  ^"^^*  P°'°*  °f  ""r  P«>g^'««  in  1818  to 
to  ..nT?*K    ^""'*  ^^8ent'8  inlet,  in  thirty-siS  hSu™,  we  broueh? 

in«  been  previously  handed^  and  the  topgallant  yard  down 

wJ.lTc^;To^^l'^T'\r  -'Sier  suS  thTwhile  we 
'        conSdp«.hit^  xorke,  and -when  the  motion  of  the  vessel  became 

mlteKky^     ^  ^^'^"^  *^  ourexperience/anl^xcelleS 
thirSioL^dsSffXS^*^"^/."^^  «^ent  of 

Storm  jib  ^rre1fSb<^XAr;r'1;^*t^P^^^^^^  *°  »>°"t  th^' 
for  such  an  em^r^cjT        "^^  ""^'""^  ^"^  ^"^  ^«P'  '"^  ^di°e» 

-^iceT:wig.°:L'2:>!!sfr^^^ 

board  bowi*  £„i^  •  u^"  *.'  8*^®  ""  »  ^»oJent  ahock  on  the  lar- 
^?rtm  Hn.,LT^  lu  ''"°«»°8  *«  «^iP^»  head  the  right  way  It 
wiMwi  was  now  on  our  lee  bnw  vAtU  ♦K«»  o«_  u    ii.'  r^^.r*^  "*  *ve 

'    \^e  were  Ti^7^'!?  T  T"  ^«"*"'«  *<»  fi°"h  our  night's  S 

mafnsa  L  we  w^d'th^^"  to  moderate;  and,  venturing  to  set\the 
hourwesTwSf^i  *  l*^*"**"**^*o^"**stheland.  ^I^ 

we  ^  the  place  whei^e  Fury  waa  wrecked,  with  ie  X 

:     ..."  ■  'r    -^  ■-•  ".-  ,;■ .,  '  V  .     •■■■.  .. ' .  \  ■  ^ 


■**  I 


I. A-  ^^ 


--**-«*<?j!i^^.yy*^ 


«lf>«£;ii»#  "*.  ■ 


...4*^4^ 


•w. 


t(Vl<HK  ARCTIC  RSOIONS. 


5t> 


of  the  tents  stahding;  but  we  could  not  discern  the  ship,  though  we 
,  were  sometimes  witling  to  think  that  she  was  distinguishable.  .To 
^our  great  mortification,  however,  we  could  not  rea^sh  the  spot;  and 
we  now  saw  that  a  strong  southerly  current  or  tide  was  hurrying  us 
away  from  this  unlucky  place.    A  thick  fog  obliged  us  to  wear,  and 

'  return  to  our  shelter  under  the  ice  we  had  just  quitted. 

During  the  day,  it  being  more  moderate,  with  clearer  weatKer,  we 
made  several  tacks  toward  the  land,  but  always  found  that  we  were 
losing  ground.  We  therefore  put  on  the  steam  at  four  o'clock;  but, 
as  the  feeding  pump  went  immediately  out  of  order,  it  was  to  no 
purpose.  At  five,  nevertheless,  we  had  reached  a  point  about  five 
iniles  to  leeward,  or  to  the  south  of  Fury  point,  at  which  time  the 
wind  and  weal  her  had  both  improved.  Commander  Ross  immedi- 
ately set  out  in  the  Whale  boat  to  look  for  an  anchorage,  and  we  fol- 
lowed, with  the  ship,  now  under  steam  and  sail  both,  into  the  ^ay  aa 

„it  ^peared  to  us,  but  inlet  as  it  afterwards  proved.  Which  takes  a  d|r 
rection  diie  east  from  this  part  of  the  coast  He  had  found  a  place, 
as  he  Judged,  which  would  afford  us  security  for  the  night;  but  we 
had  discovered  in  the  mean  time  that  there  was  an  eddy  current  set- 
ting along  shore  to  the  north-east,  in  the  direction  that  we  wished  to 
go,  and  Uiat  there  was  a  clear  line  of  water  inside  the  masses  of  ice, 
which  seemed  to  be  aground.  We  therefore,  stood  towards  this 
place,  and  found  that  we  had  just  sufficient  water  to  pass  within 
Vusket-shot  of  the  land. 

The  shore  here  was  at  first  sloping;  but,  fu^er  to  the  northward, 
we  found  that  the  land  rose  from  the  sea  in  plerpendicular  cliffs  from 
two  to  three,  hundred  feet  in  height  We  easily  ascertained  that 
they  consisted  of  limestone,  presenting  the  appearance  of  a  hori- 
zontal stratificatipn;  but  as  to  any  other  detaih,  our  geological  op- 
portunities extended  no  further.  A  very  large  white  bear  c^me 
down  to  tiie  beach,  as  if  to  gratify  some  curiosity  respecting  us;  but 
it  did  not  follow  long,  nor  come  within  gunshot  of  the  ship.  It 
soon  became  quite  calm;  but  jHtapen  the  eddy  and  iJie  steam  we 
Were  carried  at  the  rate  of  tw<HHps  an  hour. 

I3'th.  It  was  quite  clear  tonHy,  and  it  was*  now  we  discovered 
that  our  supposed  bay  was  an  inlet  It  appeared  to  be  very  deep, 
since  we  could  see  no  land  aqcording  to  its  direction,  and  we  eon- 
eluded  that  it  proceeded  far  Jo  the  westward.  As  this  chanced  to : 
be  the  birth-day  of  the  Duchess  ofyClarence,  the  bay,  which  consti- ' 
tuted  the  first  point  of  our  discoveries  in  the  present  voyage,  was 
named  Adelaide  bay,  and  the  anchorage  which  Commander  Ross 
had  selected,  Adelaide  harbour. 

At  two  o'clock  we  had  made  eight  miles;  when  observing  that 
the  tide  had  changed,  we  made  fast  for  the  night,  estimating  that  we 
were  five  or  six  miles  from  Fury  point  Our  ship  was  secure  inside 
of  some  large  pieces  of  ice  which  were  in  'a  state  of  decay,  while  that 

^  on  the  outside  was  setting  fast  to  the  southward.   The  more.we  saw 

4}f  this  coast,  tiie  higher  the  cliflfe  were  found;  ^1^  in  some.places 

•  "'  ^'  "    ,\    ■  ■'"  ■        ■    -•:  '  ,  ■   ^^  ■  '  .  ■     .  '■■  ■■   -    t    • 


■?■*•(' 

tn 


¥.T- 


V 


'jf^pr     'Tf 


-It 


t'  1 


\. 


1    ^ 


60 


SBCOMD  VOyAOB  OF  DlSCOVIIir 


J  n»f  ..«-„»,•        lurrew,  with  shapes  even  niQre  fantastical  u  in 

S.e  3d  Ttir  •  ?^*^1  ''r"^°^*''  "''''  i"  other^if 
uie  world.    At  short  intervals  also  they  were  interaertMl  ^Z^L 

;;^~™«,»™.,™,,„tCiE3J^^ 

tot  codd  b.  f^  fix,m  the  ^rk^Wow  ^^J'SlfET' 
«on»lie«)uHgettherejmdendle«m™3!.~J5!,.?^      ^*'  " 


^.^■. 


4C>. 


**      V 


' "a^w-ws  vLt'W'  J' 


._  -  J 


ro  THB  ABCTio  aioioiqi.  .    ji 

>rgr  by  a.  curmiv  which,  W  .  few  ftftom  filhTji  »„":?" 

q«Wi^wSrA:^^htt-«t? 


r---, 


-.-^■' 


'>-^ 


■^^ 


^^^ 


./=-. 


y 


/ 


\- 


;-v^j^;:' 


1  - 
\ 


/SECOtTD  VOTAGE  OF  DlfCOVERT 


CHAPTER  Vin. 


/-- 


-/ 


•  Examination  of  the  Fury*s  Stores — Embarkation  of  those  which 

toe  intended  to  tahx — Departure  and  Progress  down  this  shore 
'  — Several  new  Discoveries  made  and  named — Obstructed' by 
the  Ice,  and  moored. , 

The  Victory  being  now  securely  moored  in  a  eood  ice  harbour, 

within  a  quarter  of  a  niile  of  the  place  where  the  Fury's  stores  were 

landed,  we  were  aiijcious  to^ examine  the  spot;  and  haying  ordered 

.    the  men  a  good  metd,  With  the  rest  to  which  they  were  so  well, 

.-  ^.entitled,!  landed  at  nine  with  Commander  Ross,  Mr.  Tkomp  and 

^^ifap  surgeon.    We  found  the  coast  almost' lined  with  «oal;  i&nd  it 

4va8  wim  no  common  ihterest  that  we  proceeded  to  fhfs  ohly  tent 

which  remained  entire.  'This  had  been  the  mess  tent  of  thd  Fury's 

officers;  but  it  was  too  evidtt^  that  the  bears  had  been  paying 

frequent  ymCB.'^'  T|)ere  had  b^n  a«pocket  near  the/  door  where 

Comtiiande^Ross  had  left  his  memorandum  book  ana  specimens  of 

birds ;  but  it  was  torn  down,  without  leaving  a  fragment  of  wmt  it 

contained.    The  sides  of  the  tent  were  also  in  'many  places  Itorn 

out  of  the  ground,  but  it  was  in  other  respects  entity 

Where  Qie  preserved  meats  and  vegetables  had  been  depois|ited, 
we  found  every  thing  entire.  The  canisters  h^d  teen  pijed  op  in 
two  heaps;  but  though  quite  exposed  to  all  the  chancy  of  the  cli- 
mate, for  four  years,  they  had  not  suffered  in  the  slightest  dd^ee. 
'Hiere  had  been  no  water  to  rust  them,  and  the  security  of  the  join- 
ings had  prevented  the  bears  from  smellinc  their  contents.  Had 
they  known  what  was  within,  not  much  of  this  provision  would 
have  como-to  our  share,  and  they  would  bitve  had  more  reason  than 
we  to  be  thankful  for  Mr.  Donkin's  patent  On  examining  the  con- 
:  .tents,  they  were  not  found  frozen,  nor  did  the  taste  of  t£e  several 
.  articled  appear  to  have  been  in  the  least  degree  altered.  This  was 
indeed  no  small  tuitisfaction ;  as  it  was  not  our  luxury,  but  our  very 
existence  and  the  prospect  of  success,  which  were  implicated  in  this 

*  m(»t  gratifying  discovery*  The  wine,  spirits,  sugar,  bread,  flour, 
and  cdcoa,  were  in  equally  good  condition,  with  exception  of  a  part 

|t' of  the  latter  which  had  been  lodged  in  plrovision  casks.  The  lime- 
juice  and  the  pickles  had  not  suffered  much ;  and  even  the  sails, 
which  had  been  well  made  up,  were  not  only  dry,  but  seemejl  as  if 


',-  -t: 


-J— y      iHW'"'  ' •+'     ' 


■J 


TO  THB  ABCTIC  B^OIONS. 


63 


S  had  never  been  wett^.    It  was  remarJcable,  however   th.i 

^Zifnl  nf  r  **1^  ''*'"*f^  ^'"^'^  pESiot  of  the  sho"  tS  3e 
southward  of  this  place,  and  we  jiow  Examined  it  for  two  mite^  U 
the  northward  with  no  better  sucmIms.  ^L,  ^  T 

pected-  to  want  on  tiie  one  hand,  and  to  obtain  on  ^e^othS-  if 
r„.  J?  T'  *?K-  ^V^'"  *°  occuirence  U  le«  tiopl  SanlnSe 

fnTl^s^^  «  wi'''  "?  could  supply  all  bur  wants,  and,  colk^ 
m  one  spot,  all  the  materials  for  which  wd  should  have  sear^ 
ttie  warehouses  of  Wapping  or  Rotherhithe:  all  ready  to  beXu 

w^th  the  boats^to  receive  and'^s^rt'^hg^er  ^^toTtS^ 

re'x?eX;.trnro'n;"«"'-^^n-^^^  ^»  that^eSr^b:?^ 

tons'ofcJr;:n'fXtallli;^^^^  ^'^  ^""^^  ^•^'^"'*-«  »«" 

get  theseTtoSr  ^Ui  all  t^^^^^       ^- "  some  rest,  we  contrived  to 

Sn  board  ^beCSwtimeXST  '"Ai^"^  °^  **?"  "^"^ 
mast  of  the  Fury  •  and  S?S  «Z  i  *5"u**  ^'l®  *P*^  ""'^^  ^p- 
new  boom,  in  nlaL^?L  'LT*'*H**^  ,'*>'  ^  «'^P«"te'-  f""  * 
anchors  «u^  haw^  to^th^r  J'^^?  ^^  ¥  '°'*-  ^«  «^  got  «ame 
stores  to  make T^^r  Si?^     -^'^  ^"^  boatswain's  and  carter's 

tak?ntoZ^^hC„2s  ,;;r^ 

damaged  Whavrfbi^m*  ^T^  that  belonging  to  the  Fury 

aituX  whi^^t^^'  aj-'^r^  t-  ^:±^  -^ 


I     '        ' 


7      • 


*».    ^jpwks: 


.  .  .  p^^ 


f 


04 


SECOHO  VOTAOX  OV  DISCOVXRT 


skreen  lined  with  fearnought  was  also  found  in  toU 
but  die  bears  had  overset  the  harness  cask,  and  de^ 
whole  of  the  contents.    We  found  that  some  of 


}e  condition ; 

Etekrly  the 

ie  candle  boxes 


had  been  entered,  dther  hy  ermines  or  mice ;  one!  of  them  being 
entirely  emptied,  and  the  otiiers  partially.  Though  bleached,  and 
especiidly  on  the  upper  side,  as  I  alraidy  remarked  1m  the  spun  yani, 
none  of  die  ropes  were  rotten,  the  cables  seemed  perfect;  and  thence 
we  concluded  that  the  canvass  of  the  tents  had  merely  been  blown 
away  by  the  wind,  after  the  bears  had  loosened  ^e  cloths  at  the 
fsot,  in  attempting  an  entrance. 

The  chain  cable  and  the  cai^onades  were  inore  ob^fess  covered  by 
Ae  small  stones  on  the  beach,  and  except  being  Rightly  rusted, 
were  just  as  they  had  been  left.  .The  powder  imlgiiane,  detached 
fK>m  the  rest  of  the  store,  was  unroofed,  and  the  Viterproof  cloth 
of  it  in  tatters ;  but  the  patent  cases  huT  kept  the  jki^powder  itself 
perfectly  dry.  We^selected  from  it  what  we  dioludit  we  fhould 
require;  and  then,  in  compliance  with  Sir  Edwardl^yny's  request 
aad  our  own  sense  of  what  was  right,  caused  the  ^jemaindBr  to  be 
ckstrojred,  lest  it  should  prove  a  source  of  injury  to  imy  Esquimaux 
-D^omifi^t  hereafter  ehuice  to  visit  this  spot  Jbi^with  diis  we 
elded  ouc  new  outfit:  stnrinK  purselves,  somewhat!  like  Bolnnson 
Chisoe,  with  whatever  could  be  of  use  to  as  in  the!  wnek;  y#  if 
tlrus  £ur  greedy,  having  in  view  but  the  execntiod  of  otir  plan,  and 
piecluded  by  our  limited  means  (^stowage  from  en^umbiming  our> 
selves  witir  supeifluities.  -^ 

In  the  evening  we  obtained  sights  for  I9ie 
fdund  that  they  gave  a  differehceof  40'  m  longitade 
hid  been  laid  down  in  the  chart  Andasthuwas 
Vjlrification  which  we  had  obtained  since  leaving  England,  we  car^ 
ri|»d  on  both  sets  of  longitucfes  in  our  proceedings,  ti^  it  should  be 
ascertained  by  a  series  of  observations  ^ich  wa»  nearest  th6  thith. 
The  tides  were  foqnd  to  be  very  irreguho';  but  n^  so  much  at 
the  time  of  low  or  high  water  as  during  the  rise  and  frdL  On  the 
fint  night,  the  tide  rose  seven  feet,  the  flood  being  all  the  while 
frsm  the  northward;  but  the  following  two  were  three  fioet  less, 
though,  in  consequence  of  the  approaching  full  moon,  they  (night  to 
hav^ncreased.  luv  the  offing,  both  during  the  flood  ipft  ^^  ^^^f 
the  Ifream  took  the  direction  of  the  wind.  SeveraPMales  were 
seen  tills  day,  and  shoals  of  the  white  wiule  were  observed  running 
up  and  down  the  coast 

It  had  been  nearly  calm  for  two  days;  but  at  eight  in  the  after- 
noon a  fresh  breeze  sprung  up  from  the  northward,  and  the  iee  tuuv 
boar  that  we  lay  in  began  to  hnaik  up.  A  dog-kennel,  for  which 
we  had  np  use,  was  landed  above  hij^  water^nark,  and  two  botUes 
were  left  in  it,  containing  an  account  of  our  proceedings  up  to  that 
date.  The  boats  were  then  hoisted  vlp  and  secured,  as  was  the  Kru- 
senstern,  in  the  usual  manner:  and  casting  off  the  ship  from  the' ice 
we  made  sail  for  Cape  Oarry.  ,  It  is  true  Uut  the  opening  which  we 


meten,  and 

m  tiii^  which 

first  place  of 


\f^-r 


■  ■  i-,?t/< 


je  conditibn ; 
iirld  dtikrly  the 
te  candle  boxes 
of  them  beioK 
1  bleached,  ana 
f  the  spun  yani, 
ect;  and  thence 
sly  been  blown 
s  i^otbs  at  the 

fess  covered  t^ 
di^htly  Tusted, 
imne,  detached 
Iterproof  cloth 
vpowder  itself 
we  fhould 


Pan 


'any's  request 
Fmamdw  tobe 
my  Esquimaux 
1  with  tiiis  we 
like  Bolnnson 
iwnek}  y#if 
f  onr  plan,  and 
igour> 


nometeifly  and 
iom  that  which 
je  first  place  of 
dandy  we  car^ 
U  it  should  be 
l«st  th6  thith. 
ot  so  much  at 
IML  On  the 
;  all  the  while 
hree  fioet  less, 
thej  ought  to 
.#|the  ebb, 
1*  whales  were 
erved  running 

t'  in  the  ailter- 
id  the  iee  tuu> 
lel,  for  which 
nd  two  bottles 
ngs  op  to  that 
I  was  theKru- 
p  from  the*  ice 
ing  which  we 


'■-€ 


M 


.rW.y-      "-"-■ 


TO  THJS  ARCTIC  REOIONS. 


65 


had  seen  leading  to  the  westward  held  out  the  appearance  of  a  pas- 
sage,  but  It  was  less  clear  of  ice,  and  had  a  mucli  more  feeble  curl 
rent  than  that  to  the  sonthward.  15M.  It  was  this  also  which  s^m^ 
hkely  to  lead  us  soonest  to  the  American  conUnent;  while,  in  addi- 
tion to  all  these  reasons,  we  had  the  temptation  of  a  fair  Wind  in  this 
direction..  '  •  « «•*  uub 

At  midnight  the  weather  became  thick,  and  sdon  after  it  rained 
in  torrents,  when  we  lost  sight  of  land.  As  I  formerly  remarked, 
our  compasses  had  ceased  to  traverse  whenever  the  ship  had  anv 
motion;  and  as  we  had  no  means  therefore  of  ascertaining  the  true 
course,  we  steered  by  the  wind,  the  direction  of  which  we  had  ob- 
served before  It  be«une  Aick,  and  by  the  bearing  of  a  stream  of  ice 
which  we  had  noted:  under  which  guidance,  and  using  the  pieces 
of  ice  as  marks,  we  contrived  to  make  Cape  Garry  very  well  It 
was  about  four  mit^s  from  us  at  eight  o'clock  in  the  morning;  and. 
at  nine,  we  sounded  at  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile,  in  twelve  fathomi 

The  land  here  was  comparatively  low,  but  apparently  of  the  same 
limestone;  and  as  this  was  the  furthest  extremity  of  the  coast  which  ^ 
had  yet  been  discovered,  our  voyage  now  began^to  acquire  its  pecu-  - 
lar  interest,  since  as  yet  we  had  seen  nftthin^at  was  not  more  or 
less  known.  It  had  also  been  conjectured  that  there  was  an  open 
sea  between  this  point  and  the  American  cbntinek:  biit  this  we 
soon  found  to  be  erroneous;  since,  after  turning  a  liWe  to  the  west- 
ward, the  land,  as  far  as  we  could  judge,  extended  i^  a  south-smiUi- 
west  direction,  and  appeared  to  be  continuous.  ^ 

At  a  quarter  of  a  mile  from  the  beach  we  found  l>bttom  from  ten 
to  twelve  fathoms,  and  continued  to  run  in  this  depth,  and  aT  Z     .■ 
sanre  distance  from^the  shore,  at  the  rate  of  three  miles  and  a  half  in 
^Jl7\  fr*"^  *^'^"«u  '"""^  P^**'^*  °^  heavy  ice,  which,  while 

fioS^S?i  ^  r  '""°°?'  '^n!^'^**  "»  ^^  ^^^  water  continued  suf! 
ficiently  deep  for  our  ship.  The  greatest  danger  therefore  which 
we  had  to  apprehend,  was  that  of  being  suddenly  embayed  Pand  we 
therefore  k§pt,.ourselves  in  readiness  to  haul  off  or  to  anchor  m 
might  prove  to  be  necessary.    Though  the  risk  too  was  considera- 

fici;n7/:;in.°°*     ^''^  "^  '""^  *'  ^^'  ^'"'*  ""^"^  '^^  sea  w^  S- 

hptL^r  we  came  to  a  fine  bay;  and,  sailing  round  it,  found'it  to 
be  about  a  mde  m  length  and  in  breadth;  and  as,  by  a  sineular  cc^ 

Fearnall,  I  conferred  hisjiame  on  it,  and  those  of  two  membew  of  a 
family  to  whose  kindnesses  when  fitting  out  we  were  mudi  iTdebt^ 
ed  on  the  capes  by  which  it  was  forme  J.  Near  the  bottom  of^is 
&!  '  ""^a)  **  *  ^"**r^  *PP«"«d  to  be  sand,  proved  to  be 
ZlZT  *4;?/W"'^*-?^^«'^'»«™«k«^ere'also'bLgh?upby  ^ 
sounding.  The  land  was  here  quite  clear  of  snow  and  ice. 
^^^^^^2^^the.npoi„t,a.ul,  a  little  before  noon. 


9 


ifflR-iMf  by  ff  multitudgW 


4K«?Sf^SK«3;r 


ir*r-r 


f^f^^^l^fm!^^^<m^:'>mmm) 


4. 


^V'-:,: 


G6  SECOND  VOYAGE  OP  DISCOVERT  \  \ 

channels;  exhibiting  a  deposit  of  alluvium  which  is  far  froih  omH- 

c^mon  on  these  northern  shores,  and  appearing  to  flow  through  a  conJ\ 

^uderable  spice  inland.    It  was  named  Lang  river,  after  my  friend 

or  Woolwichyard,who  had  so  much  exerted  himself  for  our  former 

expedition:  after  passing  this,  the  land  trended  a  point  more  to  the 

Westward.    At  two  we  passed  another  similar,  but  much  smaller 

stream;  and,  tWo  miles  further,  a  remarkable  peaked  hill,  which  I 

/  named  Mount  Oliver. 

.^^int  appealed  shortly,  jutting  out  here  to  the  eastward,  about 
which  were  collected  a  number  of  icebergs  aground,  indicating  the '- 
preseiice  of  a  shoal,  extending  about  iai  mile  off;  and  a  narrow  inlet 
opened  to  the  northward  of  it,  which  app^red  to  be  full  of  ice,  and 
was  probably  shallow  throughout,  considering  that  there  were  but 
ten  fathoms  water  on  the  outside.  This  opinion  was  confirmed  by 
finding  that  there  was  here  no  appeanmce  of  any  current,  either  into 
or  out  of  it,  though  there  was  a  very  strong  one  running  outside.  ' 
I  named  this  inlet  Hazard  inlet 

Round  this  point  we  found  a  very  small  island,  to  which/ 1  gave 
the  name  of  Ditchburn,  and  th«  land  within  it  Boothia,  at  the  dis- 
tance of  a  mile,  appearing  to  be  continuous  in  the  general  direction 
already  visible.  It  now  feH  nearly  cahn;  but,  while  the  ice  became 
thicker  and  heavin*,  towards  four  in  the  afternoon,  the  fog  cleared 
away^,  and  there  broke  on  our  view  a  range  of  mountains  rising  be- 
yond'the  land  that  we  had  been  coasting,  which  we  now  saw  plearly 
to  be  a  low  and  flat  tract,  continuous  eastward  with  this  elevated 
region,  and  consisting,  not  of  an  uninterrupted  plain,  but  of  a  series , 
of  low  grounds  and  islets,  among  which  we  could  but  ill  discern  what 
was  a  real  island  and  what  was  connected  by  an  isthmus  with  the 
shore.  . 

Many  whales  of  a  light  colour  came  close  to  us;  appearing  to 
be  quite  indifferent  to  the  presence  of  the  ship;  and  if  this  proved  that 
they  had  no  experience/f  the  fishery,  so  was  it  evident  that  here 
the  whalers  might  fipd^an  easy  prey,  if  it  could  be  expedient  for 
<  them  to  make  the  tfial,  and  such  trials  should  be  as  successful  as 
ours.  The  mainland  now  appeared  quite  blue  as  the  sky  continued 
to  brighten,  being  as  clear  of  snow  as  the  lower  grounds.  Pursuing 
our  course,  we  observed  a  low  island  surrounded  by  icebergs,  and 
subsequently  a  low  point,  from  the  end  of  which  several  islets  and 
rocks  stretched  out,  appearing  to  cover  a  large  bay  formed  in^  the 
high  blue  land,  and  full  of  Close-packed  ice.  A  low  tract  was  also 
visible  to  the  southward  of  this;  beyond  which  the  mountain  range 
extended,  as  far  as  the  eye  could  reach,  in  a  south-south-east  direc- 
tion as  far  as  we  could  judge. 

We  could  not  herd,  however,  approach  nearer,  on  account  of  a 
tract  of  closely-packed  ice,  which  formed  a  ci-escent  extending  from 
the  shore  round  to  the  east  and  north-east  This  was  the  first  time 
that  our  progress  had  been  entirely  obstructed;  and  it  was  only  now 
we  found  that  we  w«re  still  too  early  in  the  season  to  explore  this 


lioMhis^fta^, 


TO  THB  ARCTIC  REOIONS. 


far  froih 
through  a  con<^ 
after  my  friend  \ 
r  for  our  former 
int  more  to  the 

much  smaller 
td  hill,  which  I 

asfward,  about 
,  indicating  the '- 
a  narrow  inlet 
full  of  ice,  and 
there  were  but 
confirmed  by 
snt,  either  into 
nning  outside. ' 

which/ 1  gave 
ia,  at  the  dis- 
neral  direction 
the  ice  became 
le  fog  cleared 
ains  rising  be- 
Qw  saw  plearly 
this  elevated 
but  of  a  series , 
11  discern  what 
limus  with  the 

appearing  to 
lis  proved  that 
lent  that  here 
expedient  for 

successful  as 
sky  continued 
is.    Pursuing 

icebergs,  and 
iral  islets  and 
ormed  in^  the 
tract  was  also 
suhtain  range 
th-east  direc- 


67 


^M 


h^l  off  and  beat 

streaming  from  th( 

,  Our  estimated  disi 


passage;  a  discovery  tUt  consoled  us  for  all  our  delays,  lb  spite  of 
which  we  were  now  convinced  that  we  had  made  a  greater'progress 
than  we  could  originally  have  6x|iected  in  a  single  season,  af  we 
should  also  have  guned  nothing  by  being  earlier. 

At  eight  in  the  evebing  the  wind  came  fresh  from  the  north-west, 
which  gave  us  an  opi^rUinitV  of  examining  more  minutely  the  pos- 
sibihty  of  penetrating  further;  but  no  opening  was  to  be  fbind, 
neither  Was  there  jUiy  clear  lipter  visible  ove^  the  ice,  in  any  di- 
rection  s^uth  of  thd  east  or  wfest  We  were  therefore  obliged  to 
le  whole  night  among  the  drift  ice,  which  was 
north-west,  jiut  of  the  different  bays  and  creeks. 

ifi/A   Tk        Ja  '<*7««  »''0"t  thirty  miles  south.of  Cape  Garry. 

i«A.  1  he  wir(d  continued  about  north-west,  and,  we  kept  on  beat- 
ig  to  gain  the  Weather  shore,  near  the  last  point  we  had  passed, 
.hich  now  bore/  north-west  by  west    At  two  in  the  morniVwe 

?li^T  u  *^t/?°<Jl*'*'*  "**''*  ^'^t  *°  «»"  »«eberg  about  musket-shot 
/roW  the  beacl|;  m  three  and  a  half  fathoms  water,  being  at  the  com- 
moA  entrance  bf  two  beautiful  litUe  harbours.  By  the  time  we  were* 
«?cu)«d  and  t^e  sails  fMrled,it  was  too  late  for^the  uTual  chuS 
s^rvide;  and /as  the  men  had  undergone  great  fatigue,  they  were 
ajlowe^^the  kours  for  ^est  I  went  oS  shoil  with  all  the  offi^rto 
aT?  P?*?!  poMession  of  the  new*discovered  land;  and  at  one 
J  clock,  bef  g  a  few  iifinute^«fter  seven  in  London,  the  colours  were 
displayed  Ji^ith  the  usual  ceremony,  and  the  health  of  the  Kinc 
Mrunk,  toother  with  that  of  the  founder  of  our  expedition,  Xf 
I  whom  the/land  was  named.  *^    "•    ' 

nf  ?h.iy/"'"f  S'!  spot  it  was  found  to  be  the  southern  extremity 
of  the  o^  land  that  we  had  traced,  and  that  it  joined  the  hiU  tract 
by  an  is^mus     Though  formed  of  limestone,  it  w^ve^d  by 
scattered  blocks  of  granite,  indicating  the  probableIXe  of  m^ 
Cff?i!f  *^°";*;r  »f yo«d.    On  the  east  side  the  rock  Wa^quit^ 
bare,  bdt  the  west  displayed  some  vegetation,  with  plants  in  flower 
that  w^re  coUected  for^the  Aor/u,^^^^^^^^    An  old  ijuSiaux  ^^^ 
that  It  had  been  visited  by  some  of  this  waldering  gibe; 
found  the  bones  of  foxes,  and  the  teeth  of  the  musk  tx.    A 
embhng  a  sand  lark  was  the  only  living  animal  we  saw. 
[m  the  highMt  part  of  this  land,  which  was  upwards  of  a  bun-    ' 
Feet  above  Ibe  level  of  the  stea,  we  obtained  a  good  view  of 
th,t/K-       '^^'"^JO"»'."K  shores,  and  had  the  satisfaction  to  find 
that  Jie  ice  was  in  motion  and  fast  during  away.    We  therefore^ 

Jd  1*2,""^^'""*'^  ""  ^«  '^°"'*»  "^^  opening;    nrpr^ 
1  on  .h^/^'V**!!:"  '*""^"  P^  *"  "Pot  t°  "'«te  som;  obse?Ja. 
iS  on  Ae  dm  of  the  magnetic  needle.    Here  we  found  two  Es- 

thTw   '^7k-  ^-^Pty*  togeUier  with  a  fox-tmp,  containing  som^ 

the  bones  of  this  animal;  we  went  afterwards  on  board  to  Ky 

e  northernmost  harbour,  which  was  found  to  have  sufficient  S 

^us  and  to  be  sheltered  from  both  wind  and  current    Thrjwe 

-  four  feet  m  the  day,  and  five  and  a  half  in  the  nigh "  hiyh 


quimaux 


^  n 


!^- 


68 


-r- 


SECOND  VoTAOE  OP  DtSCOVSHY 


^  '       ?J^f.S^  5?      ^^f""^  ''''^'^}  °^  **  ^*'°"**  ^»y  »fter  the  full  moon. 

Though  the  wind  was  unaltered,  the  cloUd^,  conUnued  to  cover 

'        infofJ*"  "^^  "*  ^  P^""^!!'  V^y  observation.     The  sea  abounded  in 
small  marine  ammals,  of  which  some  we^  added  to  our  collection. 

\  }Z       r  fr^l'  ^^®  ^  "*™^  B"'^"  "Hftd,  after  the  amiable 

s;s,?SJid?^  '-^^^^ ""  "-•'^  ^'^^^  ^*^'  ^«<»  ^- 

'  «,o^I'\J''^T?J^'°«^°''  *^®  fi"*  time  this  morning,  sights 
were  obtained  for  the  chronometers  and  the  variation.  The  obser- 
rations  here  made  on  the  dip  of  the  magnetic  needle,  gave  89°, 
being  the  greatest  that  had  yet  be^n  observed,  and  an'iScrease  of 

•  w?,  l?r.  '""^  ""^  ^^\^H  "^""y'^  ^^''^'    As  the  variation  also 
was  westerly,  we^expected  that  w;e  should  find  or  pass  over  the  ' 

""';f"f'<'P«'e,  which,  u^der  such  a  dip,  could  not  be  L  distant  *:     . 
Before  noon  we  had  a  perfect  Tiew  of  the  land,  the  point  whidi 

!^«*»«<1  next  to  pass  being  due  south  of  our  present  anchorage:  and 

separate  and  dissolve,  so  as  tojiisUfy  our  attempting  to  work  throueh 
jt  Ihe  latitude  observed  at  noon  gave  71  *»  59',  and  the  longitude 
by  chronometer,  corrected  to  Fury  point,  93°  32';  making  the  place 
r^T*.  .  J?*g^w»«  hoisted,  exactly  73°  N,  and  93°  40' W.  We 
had  hfere  left  a  bottle  containing  an  account  of  our  proceedings,  and 
had  wel|,,secured  it  by  means  of  a  cairn  of  stones,  on  which  was 
placed  a  ^osL 

which  we  w^g^,  we  were  obliged  to  cast  off  and  let  go  our  an- 
chor in  ten  fathoms,  about  two  cables'  length  nearer  the  point  of 
,    ti)e  island  than  before.     The  steam  was  then  got  ready;  anMhere 

^        3      '  ^ndfopd  out  for  the  opening  tfat  seemed  to  lead  to  the 
southern  point,  which  was  ten  or  twelve  leagues  distant    It  soon 

pro'^';/      '  ^^  ^^^  ^"«'°'  *'^"8  ^^^y  ^^^y'  ^^  "»4«  ^^^^ 

h^^iir  ""T  ^?  *i?  ^"?^^'"^  °^  *  ^"^««  «'«^  which  seemed  to 
be  part  of  a  reef  extending  between  the  points  of  the  inlet  in  view 
wer^'n^?^'^^'  ""**  ""^'^  T^  ^""  «*"  '^«-  ^ear  this  rock  the.^ 
S.?!2.'V  VPP'?"*'^  ^^^'"S  and  enjoying  themselves  in 
perfect  security,  and  one  large  one  came  very  near  the  ship.    When- 

seemed  to  be  very  abundant  v      ,  ^ 

At  eight  o'clock  a  breeze  sprung  up  from  the  north«M.  enabling 
-       n  oS  T^fK*"  '^^- ''"'''  ^^•'^  "^'^  '^^^'^^^y  «>«^  of^  till  mid? 

'^  t^n  K  tt*  **  ?]"•    yn^r"""*"'^'  ^^  "^^^^^  became  thik  at 

ten,  *)  that  we  could  only  shape  our  coufse  by  the  wind;  a  hazar- 

•    tr'  ^l^^}  ^  'l""«''*  '^'^"^  ^^*'»°"t  °»'-  being  able  to  p^rceiveTt, 

^    for  want  of  marks  or  compass,  and  thus  lead  uS  intp  perih     Still  it 

was  a  risk  worth  venturing;  since  it  was  by  working  to  the  south- 


.^,:„t 


r  the  full  moon, 
nued  to  cover 
a  abounded  in 
our  collection. 
iv  the  amiable 
1  bay,  and  the 

Qorning,  sights 
1.     The  obser- 
dle,  gave  89", 
an  increase  of 
variation  also 
pass  over  the> 
far  distant  *     • 
e  point  whicH 
nchorage;  and 
1  continued  to 
work  through 
the  longitude 
king  the  place 
40' W.     We 
)ceeding8,  and 
9n  which  was 

the  iceberg  to 
et  go  our  an- 
r  the  point  of 
y;  and, there 
id  of  the  tide, 
to  lead  to  the 
int  It  soon, 
ve  made  little 

ch  seemed  to 
inlet  in  view 
is  rock  there 
lemselves  in 
liip.  When- 
used  up,  and 


TO  THS  ARCTIC  RKOIONS. 


69 


wardithat  we  might  get  hold  of  the  land  which  we  presumed  to  be 
J  the  American  continent 

18th.  We  continued  to  run  fft  the  rate  of  three  and  a  half  miles  in 
the  hour,  among  pieces  of  heavy  ice,  against  some  of  which  we 
could  riot  avoid  strikin|g;  receiving  many  hard  blows,  but  no  da- 
mage. At  four,  however,  it  became  so  thick,  and  i  the  ice  so  close, 
that  we  could  penetrate  no  further,  and  therefore  nliade  fast  to  a  floe 
which  we  apposed  to  be  near  the  point  "in  question,  since  we  had 
run  about  twenty  miles.  The  depth  of  water  was  at  first  t^venty- 
two  fathoms;  but  we  soon  increased  it  to  thirty-three  by  drifting. 
There  were  sufficient  indications  that  the  wind  had  Continued  true 
north,  and  therefore  that  we  had  steered  south  and  a  little  easterly. 
About  ten  ^e  weather  cleared,  so  as  to  enable,  us  to  see  our  way  to 
the  westward;  and  we  cast  off"  from  the  floe  to  which  we  had  made 
fast  when  we  had  first  stopped,  since  it  still  continued  drifting  to 
the  north-east 

We  then  stood,  to  the  westward  through  ice  which  was  often  so 
thick  as  entirely  to  stop  our  progress;  and,  after  much  labour  by 
warping,  got  within  sight  of  the  land,  which  iHras  low  and  encum- 
bered by  a  continuation  of  the  reef  of  rocks  which  ^.  had4)revi- 
ously  seen.  As  it  was,  however,  possible  that  there  might  be  a  deep 
channel  near  the  land,  I  determined  to  cross  this  reef,  which  w&  ac- 
cordingly attempted  in  a  depth  of  four  fathoms,  at  first,  which  gra- 
dually shoaled  into  two,  thus  leaving  us  little  more  water  than  we 
could  venture  to  stay  in.  Here  we  made  fast  to  a  floe,  and  sent 
the  boat  forward  to  sound;  thus  discovering  that  there  was  no  pas- 
sage near  the  land,  and  being  compelled  to  return  by  the  way  that 
we  had  attempted. 

We  were  favoured  in  this  by  the  wind  shifting  a  litUe  more  to 
the  westward,  and  were  enabled  to  reach  the  deep  water  by  six 
o'clock.  Wfe  could  not,  however,  discover  how  far  we  had  pro*- 
^  ceeded  since  yesterday,  since  we  had  ndr  obserVatiot|s  at  noon. 
Holding  on,  nevertheless,  we  forced  our  way  through  the  lanes  of 
water,  and  the  loose  ice  before  us;  receiving  many  other  severe  ' 
rubs,  but  no  damage  either  to  the  ship*  or  the  boat,  and,  before  mid- 
night, succeeded  in  getting  into  some  clear  water  that  seemed  to  lead 
along  the  land  to  the  southward.  Here  the  temperature  of  the  sea 
was  32 »,  the  wind  being  due  north. 

19th.  We  continued  to  stand  to  the  southward  without  interrup- 
tion, till  four  o'clock  on  this  morning,  when,  in  attempting  to  pass 
between  two  large  pieces  of  ice,  they  suddenly  closed,  so  as  to  give  us 
a  considerable  soueeze,  but  without  any  injury;  while  we  ultimately 
torcfid  our  way  between  them.  Sooij  after  this  it  was  evident  that 
the  clear  water  was  nearly  at  an  end;  arid  as  the  wind  had  freshened, 
we  had  no  choice  but  to  make  fast  for  protection,  to  the  largest  piece 
wft  could  find.  This  was  done  at  five  o'clock;  and  the  wwither  be- 
coming clear  a  little  before  eight;  we  found  that  the  land  bore  from 
nort^i-north-west  to  south  by  east,  and  the  nearest  point,  which  was 


-'^ 


J^ 


70 


BBCOITD  VOrAOE  0»  USCOVJCHr 


&t„?w  "'t"*°^' '^*"' ^'y  """^    There  were  now  fortyWive 
fathoms  water;  but  we  were  closely  beset  by  the  ice  which %«^t 

pKi^'s  ^S^  iT^    '^^'^  Knisenstern  was  n"w  <^  Xnl 
wehfd  dHft^  r^  ^^  ?*","*'  '"^  t"*^"^"  ""on  ^  found  that 

smooA  ifn  J     •»?'^^  ^**°™"'  *"**  **»«  '''»°'*  nearest  us  was  a  flat, 

Before  noon  the  ice,  which  was  the  heaviest  we  had  vet  ««»n 
drift  S  tC!^t'  ""*'PP«d  «  «»»«  to  save  it    We  cZnued  £ 

^£i  '  ^   ..  w*ckened  *  little,  so  as  to  inve  us  the  means  of  en- 
S  tUTiS^^  Ae  rudder  which  was  Sen  hoiSed"uT^d  Wd 

Krusen8tern^early.out  of  the  waterjand  turned  our  own  hwdto  S« 
shorej  but  a&r  this  we  lay  quiet  aU  night,  in  deJaTsTwrl^K  fr^m 

»\n^t  A      ^^**»«''J^?»  ^9re  clew  this  morning  than  it  had  been 
Sk  ^"^i  '^'l'^*  ^"•* "  ?ood  view  of  this  newlyslis«>"ered  £ 
which  extended  from  nortK  250  west  to  south  80  W    We  had 

S  of  rtt  JSL*^^      .  °*  ""  ?"''  ""y^^  '^^  «°"W  '^  that  Uiis  con- 
vS«     K?  f^   ®  I^estone.    It  was  a  smooth  tract,  as  far  as  it  ^L 

n^^ir^*'''.  ^"'  °''*'  '"  **^°*  «f  *«"  i»»es,  without  eSierk^ 
pressions  or  rising  grounds.    That  behind  it  offered,  as  itiad  don^ 

tefore,aoomplete  contrast  of  character;  having  tS^VSli^^ 
irregularity  of  surface  which  marks  the  granit/oran^lS^Sf 

"'Th^'oi'™.°''P^r  r^°"""S'  snaking  ™pearVadXwur^ 

The  coast  was  broken  and  hollowed  intilSue  bays  and  skirt^ 

by  rocks  and  small  islands;  one  of  which  apZJK.  mil^ 

to  the  eastward;  whence  we  concluded  that  such  wm  thl.  «S!~i 
elevation  and  tendency  of  the  limestone,  flat  Tft  m?ghf  ha^e  a^ 
peared  to  us  when  seen  in  a  different  direction.    The  latiSdt  oC 

The  ice  shll  continued  closely  packed  and  drifUng,  with  several 
lanes  of  w^  among  it  Many  wTiales  were  K«n.  toSe?  wUh 
some  seals;  but  we  could  not  contrive  totake^anyTtCSr    The 


^ 


now  forty-five 
e,  which,  as  it 
Btened,  carried 
Dw  cast  olf  and 
we  found  that 
thward. 
t  us  was  a  flat, 
otte.    Behind 
ight,  but  blue, 
lan  °the  lower 
hat  direction, 
longitude  94° 
7l«  80',  as  we 

liad  yet  seen, 
r  was  barely, 
continued  to 
the  ice,  until 
means  of  en- 
I  up  and  laid 
ice  lifted  the  ^ 
n  head  to  the 
rarying  from 
on^  the  land, 
!  whole  body 
Valid  that  of 
off. 

1  it  had  been 
»vfered  land, 
*.    We  had 
carying  the 
at  Uiis  con- 
far  88  it  ^as 
It  either  de- 
itjiad  done 
gedness  and 
gous  rocks, 
rk  blue, 
and  skirted 
ut  a  mile  in 
a  low  point 
the  general 


I      ■ 


TO  TBI  ABCtIC  UeiOlfS. 


♦  ■      ■       ■ 

iiundings  exhibited  fragments  of  granite  and  limestone;  and  the 
temperature  of  the  air  and  water  were,  respectively,  39,®  and  32". 
We  aired  the  small  sails  and  the  people's  clothes;  jind  several  mat- 
ters were  done  in  the  ship  in  the  carpenter^s  department,  and  in  that 
of  the  engineer;  especially  in'  clearing  the  pipes  of  the  coke  dust  by 
which  they  were  choked. 

*rhe  wind  was  variable  during  the  day;  and,  by  the  marks  on  the 
shore,  we  could  see  that  we  drifted,  sometimes  to  the  northward  and 
at  others  to  the  southward^  as  the  ice  moved;  invariably  deepening 
the  water  in  the  latter  direcUon,  and  finding  it  vary  from  48  to  69 
fathoms,  with  a  calcareous  muddy  bottom  and  stones.  The  motion 
and  state  of  the  ice  formed  an  anxious  subject,  to'  those  especially  to 
whom  this  region  was  new:  we,  who  were  experienced,  were  easily 
consoled  for  such  detention  as  this,  by  recollecting  how  much  further 
we  had  already  penetrated  than  former  expeditions,  thoudi  under 
the  manjr  disadvantages  by  which  we  had  been  attended.  There 
was  not,  indeed,  any  immediate  prospect  of  a  release;  and  even  we, 
who  had  acouired  experience  from  other  voyages  in  these  regions, 
wreP|  somewhat  disconcerted  by  finding  that  a  formation  of  new  ice 
wks  commencing  on  the  holes  near  the  ship's  side;  the  thermometer, 
for  the  first  time,  falling  as  low  as  29°  in  the  water,  while  the  air 
was  only  30°.  Still  we  thought  that  the  clear  water  near  the  land 
was  increasing  in  dimensions,  and  the  great  packs  of  ieftlMoming 


!•» 


4" 


'■•^ 


v 


l\ 


^■; 


i 


^,,,1.  .'•'*  -»■•■'<•««»-.>.■ 


s 


■^ 


73 


SECOND  VOYAas  OF  DISCOVERY 


CHAPTER  IX, 


Kr; 


\i^ 


■  f 


J   1 


mosphere  bein^  as  clear  as  the  air  was  calm.  "'      °  **" 

of  oiT  r  w  ***"  djsplayed  the  same  flat  features,  forraineli  cresr^nf 
the  shTo  Lir  A?rJ?  ?*""*>  ""'^  *°  ^'^^  north  ofTep^ofntwS 

form  man3^  harbours  andTreeki     wJ         ^  7'*'*'^  appeared  to 

increasca>to  87  fathoms  -«5ri,«  «,«!  ^  ,      ^®P*"  ***  *"^  ^a^r 

and  bito  for  a  new  bow.prit    Tow«xi>  tlie  evW "he  El„  J^ 
ll.e  lee  wa.  more  prceptible,  and  a  lane  of  dear Tfter  to  h  *l?.k 
east  wa.  diMernible  by  the  terrestrial  rcfraclion      TkI  k        T"" 
;  whieKhadcohtinuedJaiKd  on  Se  ice  Z™H  ,„T''° ''niMnstern, 
;"-«l?,™  a  «on,ide,»ble  pool  re^i'S^lwr        '        ""'"'  °°'' 

was  similarly  wounded,  but  escaped  inTe  iTHSaLr  '  '""""«' 


f 


t> 


-  ,*■        - 


t  ■ 


\ 


TO  THX  ARCTIC  BSOIOIII. 


78 


At  noon  the  latitude  showed  us  that  we  had  been  drifted  throes- 
quarters  of  a  mile  to  the  north;  as  we  found  ourselves  a  mile  off  thf 
shore,  by  the  bearings  of  the  land.  Owing  to  the  clearness  oif  the 
day  we  had  the  best  view  of  the  coast  that  we  had  yet  obtained;  and 
as  we  could  mor6  certainly  perceive  a  line  of  clear  water  near  it, 
our  incapacity  to  extricate  ourselves  from  the  ice  was  the  more  pro- 
voking. The  teniperature  of  the  air  rose  to  40°,  and  that  of  the 
water  to  35":  the  land,  in  the  evening,  becoming  very  much  ele- 
vated by  the  refraction,  so  aa  to  exhibit  the  open  water  along  the 
shore  with  great  distinctness.  ' 

^  23rf.  Early  this  morning  the  wind  came  from  the  south-eaist,  and 
rendered  it  necessary  for  us  to  cast  off  from  the  floe  which  had  been 
our  anchorage  for  so  many  days;  when  the  ice  having  slacked,  we 
were  able  to  get  half  a*  mile  nearer  to  the  land.  At  nine,  however, 
we  were  arain  obliged  to  make  fast  to  a  ^e  of  ice  which  we  could 
not  pass.  Being  Sunday,  divine  service  was  performed.  After  din- 
ner we  got  two  miles  nearer  the  land,  by  sailing  an^  warping;  but 
atsix  wewdw  aanin  obliged  to  bring  up  at  a  ^ge  floe,  in  fifty 
fa^oms  water.  The  temperature  of  the  air  varied  from  35*  to  37", 
and  that  of  the  water  was  about  31".  It  was  altogether  a  beautiful 
day,  with  a  clear  sky  and  a  li^t  breeze. 

We  saw  here  some  sea  unicoma  and  many  seals;  and,  during  the . 
evening,  found  ourselves  drifting  to  the  southward,  though^e  had 
made  some  nothing  in  the  mornmg  when  under  sail.  No  clear  water 
was  seen  on  W^is  day  except  to  the  north-east;  but  the  ite  was  appa- 
rently lighter,  4nd  it  had  not  frozen  during  the  preceding  night  The 
*.ce  being  too  unsteady  for  the  arUficial  horizon,  no  observations  were 
procured.    The  weather  continued  fine  at  midnight 

24th.  The  morning,  being  cflm,  gave  us  some  hopes  of  getting 
neareTvto  the  land,  especially  as  the  ice  seemed  sufficiently  opened 
to  allow  us  to  force  the  ship  through  it    The  engine  was  therefore 
got  ready,^d  we  began  to  propel  with  the  paddles  and  icepoles  at 
seven  o  clock;  ao  that^  although  the  engine  acted  very  ill,  we  suc- 
ceed, by  two,  in  getting  hold  of  a  large  iceberg  which  lay  aground 
about  a  mile  from  the  low  point  which  bore  south-west  when  we 
started.  About  noon,  a  breeze  had  however  aprung  up  from  the  east* 
C;'*^,  and  thus  checked  our  attempts  to  get  further  south  at  this  time. 
••We  were  fortunate,  nevertheless,  in  having  secured  ourselves  to 
thiA  immovable  rock  of  ice;  since,  as  the  evening  came  on,  the  whole 
pack  which  we  had  quitted  began  to  drift  with  great  velocity  to  the 
northward,  showing  us  what  our  own  fate  would  have  been  had  we 
remained^ with  it    The  ice  to  which  we  were  fast  was  aground  in 
seven  fathoms;  and  after  this  the  water  rose  above  four  feet;  the  tide 
beginning  here  to  the  southward,  while  that  in  the  offing  was  run- 
ning m  the  contrary  direction.'   The  weather  being  cloudy,  no  ob- 
aei^ions  were  made,  but  at  midnight  the  air  wu  at  3^nnd  the 
^  wat#  at  30°.    Many  seals  were  seen,  and  the  lead  brought  up  lime- 


'*    V 


y 


_ii- 


->/ : 


1 


f  « 


^■■-.- 


•CC  OMO  V97AOK  or  DISCOVMIT 

■tone.    Qur  pofition  was  in  (he  middle  of  a  large  bight,  and  we  tad 
-closed  in  the  island  to  the  southward.  «       o    »  ^-^ 

am.  We  had  fully  ceiolved  to  try  the  steam,  but  the  wind  <Mh 
ened  against  us  before  lon^,  to  the  exact  degree,  though  noihor^i 
that  would  have  rendered  if  useless,  feeble  as  was  all  Ae  power  it 
mxld  exert     On  no  occawj^  was  this  want  of  power  more  pro-^ 

•  u?K  ■"^^'u  *^  '*  *'*'"'**  •*"*  ^*^^  *"'<^^  ""^iwo  miles  an  hour,  we 
should  have  been  abl^  to  gain  the  most  distant  point  in  view,  which 
wM  about  sixteen  miles  off.  We  tried  4vhat  we  could  do,  but  to  Yio 
purpose;  so  that  we  were  obliged  to  console  ourselves  in  being  at 
least  quiet,  and  in  a  better ,place  than  the  one  that  we  had  left;  since 
It  had  now  drifted  many  mijes  to  the  northward,  while  we  could 
»M  immense  masses  of  ice  passing- over  thevery  spot  where  we  Had  » 

Although  the  tide  both  rose  and  fell'^^th  us  this  day,  the  current 
net  steadily  to  the  northward;  in  consequence  of  which  there  wis  tfo 
refairning  ice  to>nnoy  us.  All  that  we  wanted  was  a  fair  wind,  as 
tJi6  passage  along  the  land  was  cleiir;  yet  even  this  want  wasp/oba- 
Wy\moiir  favour  as  matjters  wCre  situated;  since,  by  carrying  the 
;  ice  aiway  from  the  quarter.jW  which  our  views  were  directed,  it 

:  ^°rU!*^'?*'*?^y  8«ve  us  a  stjH  clearer  sea  in  no  long  tirtfe. 

'  ^noiigh  the  wind  increased  considerably  towards  evening,  the 
weather  became  much  warmer,  and,  to  our  great  joy,  there  came  on 
some  rain,  since  we  pOncluded  that  it  would  aid  in  thawing  and 

•  breaking  up  the  ice,    At  nootfgie  observed  latitude  was  70°  54' ■ 
being  rather  more^ap  four  n|j^^       bf  our  last  observation.  One. 
sed  was  killed,  i^id  proved  ^client    At  noon  the  air  was  at  se** 
arid  the  water  at  32°,  with  no  vari^itioBs  afterward;  and  the  tide  con- 
tinued to  nse  about  four  feet  and  a  half.  -  '  ^ 
,    26/A.  At  six  o'cloik  this  morning  it  became  quite  calm,  and  the    ' 
ice  being  sufficiently  open  to  the  southward,  the  water  sm^th,  and 
nof  current,  the  engine  was  put  in  action,  but  performed  so  badly  that 
we  made  no  more  than  one  mile  ita  the  hour,  not  being  able  to  ob- 
tain  more  than  seven  revolution^  in  a  minute.    We  ps^sQd  the  low 
point  near  which  we  were  moored,  in  seven  fathoms  water,  at  the 
distance  of  two  m?les  from  the  beach,  and  then  grad 

X  into  eighteen,  when  we  opened  the  entrance  of  a 
-,d  to  the  south-east    At  thi^ttom  of  this  thei 
a  Mfeam,  and  the  land  that  vf^Wre  approaching 

to;  consisting,  ia.that  part,  of  what  again  .«,«,»-«,  o^  «-a- 

K!!L  fiS:    ♦  '^»w.'l£?^'*'*.J°  '^  Kmeston^.a«  before,  with  miny 

Jfe  f^entjL    WiAm  a  mile  of  the  shore  the  water  deepened  to 

.^ififty  fa^oins;- J)ut  even  here  We  found  that  the  large  icebeife  were 

.  Jiyg9°>  touting  the  rocfcs  in  many  places.  f 

■%  "WkJI^tJbi^'cTock  a  fog  came  on,  but  we  were  able  to  kiep  the 

*'«iling{iswithin  a  quarter  of  a  mile  of  it    At  seven 

j^nt  to  look  for  a  harbour  in  the  bay,  afid  he 

3  ^fjk^^y  goo<l  one,which  I  named  Port  Logan. 


i  y: 


^wa8l 


!  in  fine 


»-*h.*.»^»-i#-*it-vj' 


■^^"'^    »  ,^     ^  *-.     I      .,   ,^V 


..#' 


■^^ 


t,  and  we  lipd 

le  wind  ^^Hf^ 
ugh  noihore^ 
the  power  it 
sr  more  pro-^ 
s  an  hour,  we 
,  view,  which 
do,  but  to  tio 
8  in  being  at 
lad  left;  since 
lile  we  could 
irhere  we  Had'^ 

'I-      f  ■ 
',  the  current    ' 

there  wts^o 

fair  wind^  as 

it  was  p/oba- 

carrying  the 

)  directed,  it 

n'fe. 

evening,  the 

lere  came  on 

thawing  and 

was  70°  54'i 

rvation.  One. 

r  was  at  36° 

the  tide  con-  ,. 

nlm,  and  the 
smooth,  and 
Bo  badly  that 
;  able  to  ob-, 
isQd  the  low 
vater,  at  the 
dly  drqiped 


TO'THE  ABOnC  BB&IOirS.       / 


,  with  many 
dieepeped  to 
eber^  were 

to  keep  the 

At  seven 

bay,  and  he 

PortLog»n. 


i  K 


\    ' 

''■'' ' '.. 

We  entered  it  at  eight,  the  wal^  beiag^ih^er,  and  the  icebern 
grounded  at  such  a  distance  from  the  shore  as  tu  give  us  an  exceT 
lent  pier  harbour  within  them,  with  twelve  feet  at  low  w|lter,  and 
our  stem  not  above  fifty  fathoms  from  the  rocks. 

This  was,  however,  a  safe  position,  notwitfistanding  that  proximity 
and  the  small  depth  pf'^wpiter,  since  the  icebergs  were  immovable. 
*^e4«nded  at  nine  to  taM  possession,  tad  walked  three  miles,  up  a 
S£^'  n»uch  nwre2|jBB|U|ing  character  than  the  general  aspect  of 
"■'HS'^ '        ief  u3  t6'*Bxpect    It  was  traversed  by  a  river, 
JSm^  channel  of  which\a  small  stream  was  now  running,  but 
Ich  boSre  the  marks  of  -beiiii;  a-  considerable  torrent  during  the 
,Jtin^  of  the  snows.    This  river  was  named  the  Macdoual.    We  , 
saw  here  the  recent  marks  of  deer  and  of  the  musk  ox,  and  also  shot 
a^whitehare.  ,^^ 

,.*   #*'^',^'  This  day  was  a  continued  calm,  and  though  foggy  in  th*. 
morning,  sights  were  obtained  for  the  chronometers.    Oacendadi. ' 
wilii  Commander  Ros^  tothe  precipige  at  which  the^^^iipwu  faat  " 
which  seemed  about  200  feet  hlgh/but^  view  gtaS  obstructed 'fa#  . 
much  higher  land  to  the  southward  and' westward.   We  saw  ho  an^- 
mals;  but  the  traces  of  bears,  deer,  and  ptarmigan  were  visible  in 
many  places.    This  hill  was  of  granite,  so  as  to  confirm  our  conjec- 
tures respecting  the  higher  lands  at  a  greater  distance,  and  was  in- 
tersected by  veins  of  quaHz;  and,  at  its  foet,  with  granite  fragments, 
,,  thqre  weredso  masses  of  whitish  limestone,  with  shells  imbedded 
m  the  slaty  strata  that  accompanied  it    There  was  very  little  vege- 
tation, but  the  margins  of  two  small  lakes  on  the  summit  were  sur-  ^ 
rounded  by  lichens  and  mosses.  , 

,       This  and  all  the  adjoining  land  was  entirely  clear  of  snoW;  and 
the  water  of  the  lakes  stood  at  38°,  while  the  air  was  to-day  as  high 
,    as  42*.    Obtainihg  here  a  meridjan  altitude  of  the  sun,  we  found 
the  latitude  to  be  70°  48',  and  the  longitude  93°  18',  giving  92°  48' 
when  corrected  by  that  of  Fury  ^oint    The  dip.  of  the  magnetic  ' 
needle  was  89°  46'  west    After  these  needful  observations,  we 
took  possession  of  this  continuation  of  our  discoveries,  according  to ' 
.    .Uie  usual  forms,  selecting  another  elevated  spot  for  this  purpose. 
At  that  part  of  this  coast  the  land  was  undulated  into  hills  and  val- 
Ja^s;  most  of  the  latter  containing  lakes  abounding  in  small' fish 
•■^  Wout  three  inches  long,  not  unlike  trout,  described  among  the  other ' 
articles  in  natural  history,  herejjfter.    We  obtained  some  dozens  by 
mean^  of  our  net;  but  H  was  too  Ifla^re  in  the  meshes  fe|securt  u 
mahy  as  we  might  otherwise  have^liken.  ^  •  * 

We  hence  proceeded  to  a  hill  abrfut  300  feet  high,  five  miles  fyr- 
ther  to  the  southward,  from  the  top  of  which  we  had  a  mostflntis- 
lactory  view^^he  land  appeared  to  extend  in  a  south-westerfy  di- 
rection from  Jjife  island,  and,  to  the  eastward  of  souths  all  was  water 
iQf  a  space  ^  thirty  mUes;  the  ice  being  such  as  to  give  us  every 
prospect  of  getting^through  whenever  the  wind  aboulrf  becomp  fair, 
aince  it  was  vamlto  reckon  on  the  assistance  of  the 


A 


engine  any 


■/"' 


/ 


-N^ 


"^^ 


'* 


l^  ' 


v:. 


fi$?^^^0%  %?^'^^.' 


■*;     •■■■ 


/V 


f 


-74 


5^ 


SSBOKD  Vt)rib£  OP  DISCOVERT 


-       *«^7wW6&StSS.\r?°f  P^^^  killed  a 

•  •*     IfwWtS I^SS^t^^^^^^        •**."*  T^  '?^^  »  "^o^^  bunting. 
,    5l^tahce'or\S?^.P^  *^^^^^        'n  which  we  %,  and  at  SS 

^  -ttiles  deepj^eSwS  vKTI*"  "*'?  or  bay,  about  two 
an  island  which  aeemprf  nn  :/oN»Ilu      i     "o™em  one  there  was 

between  it  anii  the  oZ^lT^l'         ."'""■'g  «o  offer  a  piiaa« 

wothern  extremity  5«Ldt«^»r?lf*'^'*^-    ""^ft" 
ing,  ™cce»i„n?f^i„^l„'?Ej^*X:*-»°"a««>l.  I»^^ 

.  eimiine  in<.r»  particalw^^Xj3°"  ^l    .T.''"'  ~"*''<'»  •" 

midnight  there  wL  a  breJS  ^rtr^  ir'"  ^°.^ 

At  the  bottom  of  the  bav.  I  must  nn<ir  ,aa  r^Wl 

twenty  summer  habitationTofthiS^^*'*'^®*"**  ^°»'^  "bout 
streams  there  floSSngl^to'the  s^  ^Sr"''  "^'^^.'^t^e-n  two 
,  tirfh^tomark  no  Si-Smt'LTiuIg^S^^^ 
pied.    Near  them  we  foimH  »  «o;-^f  '^-  j      ,   .   ^  "*"  '*^°  "ecu- 

mo«'"eho^S°X  d«-.lT'^i!?S  P"-'  -^""h  were  once 
ever  to  r^r^t  /hi  ;il       r     '         we.  had. more  reason  to-day  than 

d^te  power     AtmWnighttheUS':!^S^„J^f  ?>^^  '"O- 

the^wL^rmtrrie^^^t^^^^^^^^  ^y 

theicewasset  k  uZ^ellndlS       '       ^^^'.^'^''^K^^^^Jk", 

floe  which  impeded  ^dl  mt^l'  rtTl^  **»  a  large  and  heivy 

panied  this  chSa#e  wbuIdlS  k     ^5.'•''.  "^^^^^^  ^*'»«»>  *c«o»n- 

P«liment,  sin"  eX  WM.t  if  th^  t^!^  '^"  i?  '"^'^  *  '^"'"P'^^  ™- 

bb  upder  such  drL^TtlnL      A?    P"^'  *^^?^  «»««"  «  ™poMi- 

The  «,b  were  l«.weverl«»ed,.n«w.rp.  bid  ™,,  i„  e:q».taiio„  '    ; 


i 


..fc. 


in,  and  killed  a 
a  snow  bunting. 
!  Tay,  and  at  the 
bay,  about  two 
of  it  extending 
one  there  was 
a  good  harbour 
id  Moltke  bay, 

f  this,  appeared  ^ 
rdswide;  being 
offer  a  passage 
uid.    From  its 
i-east,  present- 
ad  occasion  to 
southernmost 
;  south  14°  E. 
we  wfeTre  now 
bore  south  of 

ut  which  had 
Bof  the  frag- 
;  and  towards 
»t  The  tide 
Ulrmoon;  but 

found  about 
between  two 
»  recent  erec- 
id  been  occu-     • 
and  some  fox  * 

ih  were  once 

I  to-day  than 

ichine,  since 

le  moi^  mo- 
foggy- 

ppointed  by 

ig  the  night, 
and  heavy 

liich  accom- 

>niplete  im- 
i«impossi- 

>eared  to  be  . 
the  north; 

,the  south- 


TO  THB  ARCTIC  REaiOVS. 


77 


.V 


Aat  the  weather  might  so  far  clear  up  a^  <o  enable  us  to  discover 
aome  channel:  but  the  fog  continued^o  dense  the  whole  davthS 
at  eight  we  gave  up  all  hopes,  and  furledle  sails.    The  wTndl^ 
deed  now  freshened  so  much,  that  we  thought  ourselves  fortaiateTn 
not  having  started  as  we  at  first  wished.    We  found  it  exDedS  n 

better  to  the  berg»  and  the  rocks.  \  P 

The  mnd  after  this  veered  a  litUe  more  to  the  north;  and  as  it 
was  to  be  new  moon  the  following  day,  we  began  to  f4r  lest  the 
icebergs  should  float  and  carry  us  furSer  up  Se  bay^1Lo„e  til 
dangerous  rocks  and  shoalr  which  we  had  there  Z  Th?tS^ 
roae  three  feet,  the  high  water  being  exacUyatTooHkd  ^e  ebS 
?o?^-*i?"  ^W^*"r  ^^  '^^  "^^  "^'"8  34<  and  thatif  tl^water 
An.;^  ''^'■^*'^  5*  "^  *^°*«*  to  fc  dissolving  fast  awuhTus 
Aough  some  heavy  floes  were  drifted  into  the  mourofX  bav* 

l^n^f^^  ""^'"^'  •«  -«--  -"  pn>tected  by'Jh'e 

As  weivould  not  venture  on  shore  to-dav.  for  fear  nf  a  <.h.»»«  • 
our  favour,  it  was  employ^  i„  examintgld  pre^l*  S^"«L? 

H^v'^iJSS^f **r^'^  ^*l*^  "^  coflectelSTSyletre^A 
r«^method  of  d«m«ng  the  seal  skins  was  found,  by  putting  tiiem 

^  M  S'  '^J*".**^  were  rendered  free  of  every  pS  of  ftSh 
ine  seal  s  flesh,  as  before,  turned  out  lood.  with  vera  mn»i.  «r  ♦». 
the  good  fortune  to  i«»yer  .nfe  which  had  Gillen  ovwhwd  hrt 

,   «&M."It  was  high  water  this  morning  it  two;  beinir  nearlv  »f  *Kn 

t\r^'  1.     .u^**®  rose exacUy  six  feet;  having  been  but  ttiSs^Lf 

S  wlft'*  ^*  P*!!^''?«  '^'y*  '^  "»  *«  foltowin^t  hdf^  o^' 
It  was  but  twentymo  inches.  This  is  a  sufficient  nroof^^hei^ 
gjilarity  of  the  tides  in  this  stnut;  preventing  TpSSbLw  ^ 

srcrtiiftt*5^j"'«^"«°'*^*''^«"^^^^^^^^  bT?i 

was  in  thit  direction- Lirw«oi^/  ^®  f°"*  '^*»®"  *^«  w'nd 
the  southwaiS  '  ^"^  '^'^  '^"''"y  *«tor  in  proceeding  to 

6n  the  coast  ffif  tlT^tt   T'^k  ^  '*^  '"'''*^'*  ******  •^"  ^^^ven 
uwi  aunng  tne  night    We  therefore  cast  loose  from  the 


78 


SECOND  VOYAGE  OF  DISCOVEBY 


■^ 


■\ 


I,-' 


I 


^ 


iceberg,  and  made  sail;  yet  could  <find  no  passage  through  on  reach- 
ing it,  and  were  compelled  tatack.  But  we  had  run  to  the  leeward 
so  far,  that  we  could  not  fetch  any  place  of  safety,  and  were  there- 
fore obliged  to  warp  back  to  the  place-we  had  left,  whiph  we  reached 
at  seven  o'clock.  'V. 

Before  noon  it  came  to  blow  hard  from  the  north-east,  which  set 
in  the  ice  so  thick  on  the  shore,  that  not  an  interval  of  water,  could 
be  seen.    We  therefore  considered  ourselves  fortunate  in  having  got 
back  to  our  station;  :<||Bappointed  as  we  might  be  in  having  made 
no  progress.    Raining  now  once  more,  while  it  blew  hard,  we  also 
once  more  hoped  that  the  ice  would  feel  the  effects,  to  our  speedy 
profit     Though  no  clear  water  could  be  seen  from  the  ship,  we, 
however,  obtained  a  view  of  a  considerable  tract  in  the  o£Bng,  by  ■ 
iaiSC0nding  some  of  the  higher  ground  on  the  shore. 
,.      Seeing  now  that  there  was  no  chance  of  proceeding- till  the  wind 
changed,'  an  additional  hawser  was  carried  out  to  a  rock  for  further 
security,  in  the  evening;  and  another  io  the  mofning,  after  we  had 
found  that  the  tide  had  risen  so  high  as  to  float  the  icebergs;  lest  wCf  ",' 
should  be  altogether  drifted  out,  or  at  least  be  carried  further  up  tJiqf  fi,  ^^  j 
bay.    At  ^unset,  however,  the  weather  had  a  more  settled  appear- v  '*  * 
anceJ  yet 'this,  was  of  short  duration.    It  soon  afterwards  became 
cloudy,  with  the  wind  from  the  east;  and  at  midnight  we  had  our 
first  fa^  of  snow.    The  gales  became  then  very  strong  from  the 
north-east,  and  the  ice  was  packed  close  round  the.  outside  of  the 
bay;  but  the  icebergs  still  defended,  us  from  its  pressure.    The'  tem- 
perature of  the  air  was  34°,  and  that  of  the  water  32°.  I 
30th.  During  the  night  it  blew  a  strong  gale,  but  the  tide  rose 
only  five  feet  six  inches;  and  as  the  icebergs  did  not  move,  the  ship 
lay  in  perfect  security.    As  it  was  high  water  half  an  hour  earlier 
than  on  the  preceding  night,  we  had.  additional  proof  of  the  irregu- 
larity of  the  tides  ii^  tiiis  strait;  caused,  unquestionably,  by  the  com- 
plicated action  of  the  winds  and  the  drifting  ice.    In  the  morning 
the  hills  where  covered  with  snow;  a  sight  which  was  very  far  from 
agreeable,  though  we  had  no  reason  to  expect  aught  else.     Yet 
we  had  not  much  reason  to  complain,  though  we  should  eventually 
have  been  stopped  here;  since  we  had  already  penetrated  further, 
by  a  hundred  and  twenty  miles,  even  during  this  very  short  sum- 
mer o(  ours,  than  a^y  previous  expedition  had  done  in  two  yeard. 
This  being  Sunday,  was  made  a  day  of  rest 

_  The  gale  continued  from  the  north-east  the  whole  day,  accompa- 
nied by  snow  and  sleet,  the  temperature  of  the  air  being  at  34°  and 
that  of  the  sea  at  32°.  Both  the  ebb  and  the  flood  had  so  diminished,  . 
that  the  difference  was  scarcely  two  feet:  and  we  could  now  see  that 
our  little  harbour  was  the  only  secure  place  on  the  coast,  all  the  rest 
'being  closely  beset  by  ice.  But  we  still  expected  that  the  wind 
would  remove  these  fragments,  and  tliat  we  should  be  able  to  make 
some  miles  of  progress  before  the  winter  should  fairly  set  in. 
Slat.  This  morning  the  land  was  entirely  covered  by  snow,  and 


TO  THE  ABCTIC  REGIONS. 


79 


there  was  no  more  of  the  usual  blue  colour  to  be  seen.  Once  more 
j|  the  |Mle  rose  five  feet  and  a  half;  anil  the  ice  was  closely  packed  all 
>  flS  round.  As  the  day  advanced  the  snow  turned  to  sleet,  and  at  lenirth 
to  a,8teady  rain;  the  temperature  of  the  air  rising  afterwards  to  37° 
Wi^  this,  the  snow  on  the  hiUs  began  to  m?|lt  and  disappear.  Going 
on  shore,  a  lane  of  water  was  found  to  have  made  its  appearance  in 
the  gouth,  and  another  in  the  east,  while  the  ice  began  also  to  slacken 
both  to  the  northward  and  southward  of  our  harbour.  The  rivers 
were  found  much  swollen,  but  no  animals  were  seen.  This  day  the 
water  only  rose  two  feet  and  a  half.  , 

Sept.Ut.  At  four  in  the  morning,  as  there  appeared  a  possibility 
ot  workmg  the  shipinto  clear  water,  she  was  hauled  out  to  an  ice- 
berg, and  by  the'aid  of  a  north-north-west  wind,  we  contrived  to 
steer  along  the  land  in  a  southr^ast  by  south  course.  We  passed 
outside  the  low  island,  and  then  boi^  up  for  the  outermost  point, 
though  in  constant  doubt  of  our  position,  'from  the  thicki^essof  the 
weather  and  the  frequent  changes  of  course  we  were  obliged  to 
make  m  working  through  the  ice.  But  it  cleared  at  seven,  sb  as  to 
show  us  the  land,  bearing  from  south  88°  east  to  south,  and  also 
from  south  to  south-south-west  It  was  the  island  which  we  had 
seen  on  the  twentieth,  but  its  distance  proved  to  be  much  greater 
than  we  had  then  imagined.  It  was  named  Alicia  island.  Wb  kept 
under  swl  as  long  as  we  could,  but  were  at  last  compelled,  by  the 
closing  of  the  ice,  to  make  fast  to  a  large  piece  of  it,  which  hapiwned 
to  be  at  hand.  This,  with  the  whole  pack,  proved  to  be  driftinir  to 
the  southward,  and  thus  brought  us  nearer  to  the  islands,  though  we 
were  beating  in  the  opposite  direction.  Towards  evening  it  became 
moderate,  and  the  ice  seemed  to  have  stoppei.  The  rudder  was 
theretore  unshipped,  and  the  Krusenstern  placed  in  a  secure  sitaation, 
m  case  we  should  become  permanenUy  beset,  as  now  appeared  in- 
evitable;  while  I  need  not  say  that  we  were  once  more  reduced  to  a 
state  of  utter  helplessness.  The  temperature  of  the  air  was  36°  in 
the  day,  b»t  at  night  it  fell  to  34°.  The  depth  of  water  was  5a 
lathoms,  and  the  distance  from  the  nearest  land  three  miles:  but  as 
we  approached  within  two  miles  in  drifting  to  the  southward,  it 
deepened  to  eighty  fathoms.  Some  seals  were  seen,  and  anlvorv  euU 
was  shot  ,     '  ° 

r.Jtf'^^^^^t  morning  the  ship  had  drifted  ahreast  of  the  high^ 
part  of  that  island  which  had  been«)  long  in  sight;  which  nowilow- 
ever,  proved  to  be,  not  one  island,  as  we  had  thought,  but  a  rocky 
Cham  of  islets  extending  in  a  south-east  and  north-west  direction. 

fo^Ll  *^'  "^f /^  f '  f"'*  ^^  '°"«it"**«  92°  6';  whence  we 
found  th^t  we  had  made  eleven  miles  to  the  southward.    After 

to  tLnn^KT?^*-  ^y  ^'^*^''  ^^  ^^'"«  »bout  thr^  miles 
wp^.^     '         .""  .'*°  °*.?''  d'^^ction.    The  islands,  from  which 
Trl^^i'?*''^*^"^^  ^T-  ^^^  '^'»*»"*'  P^"t«d  the  most  barrcB- 
and  repulsive  tract  which  we  had  yet  seen;  displaying  a^  enS« 


m 


A;, 

■/J 


■  1 


■   1 


V  1 


i 


80 


SECOND  VOTAOS  OF  DISCOVERT 


surface  of  dark  iand  rugged  rocks,  without  the  least  trace  of  vegeta- 
tioh,  or  the  presence  of  even  a  bird  to  enliven  them.  The.cleameM 
of  the  day  allowed  us  to  see  some  land  which  appeared  to  be  about 
nine  leagues  off;  and  it  was  higher,  as  it  seemed  to  us,  than  what  we 
had  passed  before;  while,  in  the  intermediate  space,  were  more  of 
the  cocky  islands. 

The  piece  of  ice  to  which  we  were  now  fast  was  about  two  acres 
in  dimensions,'^nd  had  9.  pond  of  fresh  water,  whence  we  replenished 
our  stock ;  after  which  it  was  made  a  washing  place  for  such  articles 
as  demanded  this  operation.  Though  the  temperature  of  this  day 
was  only  40°,  the  dogs  were  panting  w.ith  heat,  and  seeking  tdch 
shade  as  they  could  find  on  the  rough 'ice.  It  however  fell  to  31° 
before  eight  o'clock,  and  finally  to  29".  The  depth  of  water  was 
here  ninety-five  fathoms.  Except  a  small  whale,  no  living  animals 
weve.seen  about  this  placel  The  snow  had  disappeiuvd  from  this' 
part  of  the  land,  with  exception  of  a  small  quantity  on  the  mountains  • 
in  the  extreine  distance.  In  the  evening  it  wjs  calm,  and  we  con- 
tinued fast  beset,  but  drifting  to  the  southwardwith  the  whole  pack. 
At  midnight  we  sounded  in  a  hundred  and  twenty  faUioms,  with  a 
muddy  bottom. 

3d.  The  weather  was  thick  this  mortung,  with  light  and  variable 
winds,  chiefly  from  the  northward.  Tli^^ater  shoaled  to  sixty- 
five  fathoms,  and  then  deepened  to  eighty.  The  ice  was  fast^l 
^und  us,  but  appeared  more  slack  towards  the  islands  we  had 
{iassed.  In  the  afternoon  the  fog  turned  to  small  rain,  the  thermo- 
meter being  at  36" ;  and  some  clear  weather  in  the  evening  dtsco- 
^red  to  us  that  we  had  made  three  miles  further  south  since  yester- 
day^ The  sight  of  one  bear  and  one  seal  was  not  enough  to  enliven 
this  Wearisome  day. 

It  a{|ipeared  to  us,  at  this  point  of  bur  progress,  that  the  large 
island, Whose  aspect  had  so  often  changed,  consisted  in  reality  of 
three,  which  formed  part  of  a  rocky  chain  extending  along  the 
copt  as  far  as  we  could  see,  and  which,  by  stopping  the  ice, 
caused  the  difficulty  of  the  inshore  navigation.  Thus  we  again 
found  use  for  Our  patience :  while,  by  following  this  cljain  in  the 
train  of  the  ice,  we  trusted  that  we  could  always,  keep  behind 
such  heavy  masses  as  would  ground  in  time  to  prevent  us  from 
being  wrecked  or  suffering  any  material  injury.  Heavy  rain  at 
midnight,  with  a  shift  of  wind  to  the  eastward,  gave  us  some 
hopes  of  a  change,  though  setting  us  on  the  shore. 

4th.  As  the  wind  had  shifted,  during  the  night,  to  the  east-south- 
east, we  found  this  morning  that  we  had  drifted  two  miles  to  the 
northward,  approaching  towards  the  shore  at  the  same  time.  It 
rained  hard  till  nine,  and  the  wind  iincreased  to  a  gale ;  so  that,  by 
noon,  we  had  drifted  four  miles  further  in  the  same  direction,  being 
fixed  between  two  floes,  but  so  as  rto  sustain  no  injury.  Thick 
weather  coming  on  at  three,  we  saw  the  land  no  more,-  but  were 
convinced  by  the  lead  that  we  wev6  cohtinuing  to  driv^;  and  after 


--  * 
race  of  vegeta- 

The.  clearness 
red  to  be  about 
,  than  what  we 
,  were  more  of 

bout  two  acres 
we  replenished 
ir  such  articles 
re  of  this  day 
i  seeking  lltich 
ve^r  fell  to  31° 
1  of  water  was 
living  animals 
ired  from  this' 
the  mountains ' 
if  and  we  con- 
tie  whole  pack, 
ithoms,  with  a 

lit  and  variable 
)aled  to  six^- 
!e  was  fast^l 
ilands  we  had 
hf  the  thermo- 
evening  dfsco- 
h  since  yester- 
>ugh  to  enliven 

that  the  large 
i  in  reality  of 
ing  along  the 
>ping  the  ice, 
'hus  we  again 
I  cl^ain  in  the 
,  keep  behind 
svent  us  from 
tleavy  rain  at 
gave  us  some 

the  east-south- 
o  miles  to  the 
une  time.  It 
!e ;  so  that,  by 
irection,  being 
ijury.  Thick 
lore,-  but  were 
Wh;  and  after 


TO  THB  AmOTIC  BBOI0H8. 


81 


various  changes  of  soundinss,  found  ourselves,  by  the  evening,  in 
one  hundred  and  twenty  fathoms,  which  diminished  to  seventy-6ve 
at  midnight  The  shootmg  of  a  glaucous  guO,  and  of  a  seal,  were 
the  onlv  amusements  pf  a  provoking  day,  under  which  we  were 
losing  all  the  ground  we  had  just  beep  gaining,  if  not  more. 

5th.  The  gale  ijOQtinuing  all  night,  with  rain,  the  large  floe  separated 
from  us  very  early 'in  the  morning;  and,  as  it  became  clear,  we 
found  that  we  had  drifted  off  the  land..  Perceiving  then  that  the 
whole- pack  had  considerably  slackened,  we  attempted,  in  conse- 
quence, to  force  through  it  towards  the  land,  in  spite  of  many 
heavy  blows,  which  fortunately  did  no  mischief.  We  here  found 
that  our  latitude  was  70^  55',  and  that  we  had  lost  nineteen  miles, 
in  a  northerly  direction,  together  with  fourteen  miles  in  longitude, 
during  the  three  hours  which  we  had  been  driving  with  the  ice.  • 

At  five  it  deared,  and  we  say,  in  the  south-east,  but  at  a  greater, 
distance,  the  never-ending  island  which,  it  almost  seemed,  we  were 
destined  not, to  quit  Forcing  the  ship  through  much  hM%  ice, 
we  at  last  cleared  the  whole  pack;  when,  the  wind  favouring  us  a 
litU^  we  made  up  all  the  way  that  we  had  lost,  and  having  again 
jpot  hold  of  the  land,  made  fast,  at  ten  o«clock,  to  an  iceberg  aground 
m  five  fathoms,  and  about  five  hundred  yards  from  the  Siore.  It 
rained  hard  till  midnight,  but  was  nearly  calm.  We  saw  two 
whales  on  this  evening,  with  several  seals;  and  the  water  was  clear 
between  the  pack  and  the  shore,  while  we  were  surrounded  by 
large  icebergs.  ' 

6M.  The  wind  continued  in  the  same  quarter^with  rainy<  weather, 
so  that  we  could  form  no  plan  for  proceeding.  Ahsr  divine  ser- 
vice we  went  on  shore  to  s^  fojr  a  morMecure  harbopr,  as  our  pre- 
sent place  was  a  very  unsafe  one.  EnteBng  an  inlet  with  the  boat, 
about  a  quarto-  of  a  inUe  wide,  we  sounded  in  fifteen  fiithoms;  and, 
foUowing  It  for  a  mile,  we  found  it  open  into  a  spacious  harbour, 
having  twenbr  fathoms  in  the  middle;  and  shoaling  gradually  to 
the  sides.  We  here  too  ascertained  that  what  we  hwl  taken  for  an 
urtand,  the  night  before,  was  a  peninsula.  The  harbour  was  named 
JJilwabeth,  in  compliment  to  a  sister  of  the  patron  ef  our  expedition. 

The  country  consisted  of  limestone  and  granite,  resembling  what 
we  had  formerly  examined.  A  herd  of  reindeer  passed  at  a  suffi- 
cient distance  to  make  us  waste  some  shot,  if  not  to  tantalize  us.  as 
we  proceeded  to  ascend  the  hill  to  the  southward.  Hence  weLd 
a  perfect  view  of  a  harbour  not  exceeded  by  any  in  the  world;  he- 
lore  this,  we  had  not  been  ablcT  to  form  a  just  estimate  of  its  extent 
or  nature.  The  pttrsuit  of  some  hares  whiich  we  saw,  did  not,  how- 
ever, tempt  us  to  prolong  our  stay,  since  we  could  discover  that  the 
ice  was  drifbng  fast  upon  us.' 
•■    ■;  ./U^    -r  ■ .     ■  , 


n 


^    , 


1  .-&!>  ^^t» 


7 


.-  V 


UOOHD  TOTJtOJi-or  DISCOTKBT 


=jir 


I 


CHAPTER/ X. 


M^^riJS^'**^  '^'^  ^i^  ""^"^  tAe  fee, ani escape 
p^^^^ .^'"'^«^JP^'''»>^ Pf  Eclipse  Har^^ 
^^^*^  Oi9covenes—Cape  St.  CatherintyandLax  Harbour. 

f^^V^^r^'^  "*"  ^  ^y  '^°  °'«*o«k»  we  ™»de  sail  theny 
lore  from  the  ,ceber|,  and  entering  into  the  harbour,  moored  the 
jhip  to  a  wnall  one  in  seven  fathoni?,  not  far  from  the  beach.  A 
boat  was  then  ditched  to^  see  if  there  was  any  exit  on  the  south- 
ern  or  eastern  side;  but  the^  result  was,  that  we  had  entered  by  Ihe 
only  openm^  as  it  was  also  found  that  it  was  separated  from  the 
Jtout  mthout,  by  arnarrftw  range  of  limestone  about  three  miles 
long,  level  and  straight  The  lipundiry  to  the  westward  was  of 
high  land,  and  that  to  the  nbrth  consisted  of  lowerhiUs  interapersed 

Sf  fiS?if°"*"SP*i.  *e  rocky  point  and  peninsula  whSi  we 
had  4m  taken  poSB^a  fomii^^^^ 

presented  many^yanetie^aiid  was  studded  with  garnets,  probably  in 
&e  veim^  whitifcwe  did  not  take  sufficient  care  nS^J,«^ 
tS!1.  I  now  mdeed  suspect,  that  <^n  tfiis  and  other  occi^ons,  what 
LaTUT"      ^'"*®  '^"*  gneiss;\a  mistake  which  is  often  easily^ 
'    ^^SL?^*^**  '^."^*  P"f  "«*  mineralogists;  but  as  I  coufl^ 
not  «>llect  specimens  at  every  pface  tha^  was  vfsited,  and  as  I  could 

"!*;„  2"«  J?."*  •^'»»^^«»<>'»whieh  were  collected,.for  future  ex-  , 
ammatoon,  this  jery  ununportant  error,  if  such  it  be,  must  remain.     I 
hJ^^  evening,  landing  at  the  north  side,  and  ascending  the 
W?J^*''''"'^^''^**'**^'°«^»»'»»^tte»•  view  of  this  roleii-  . 
^o^^I'VJ^^^"  "^^^f^^  ^"^*  navy  might  safely  Hde.  , 

^!^f  .^  ourselves,  to  have  taken  refuge  here;  but  we  saw  ^ 
ratfks^of  any  shoals  or  rocks  within  it  In  majy  parts  there  were 
five jaAoms  water  close  to  rocks  on  the  sho«,Xre  vess^^mT^ 

Hf«!;jl.  P^V"*^  "^^T  *®y  "^«^'  •*«>  J^e^ve  down  and  reiSir 
SS  'J'''/^"^  •""fk"  0°  the  margin,  we  judged  that  there  ^ 

7th.  In  the  evening  it  blew  hard  from  the  northward,  bringinir 
the  ice  past  the  place  which  we  had  left,  and  packing  up  tie  whole 


%■■ 


.  -•» 


*       .  TO  rn  aIctic  BKoibM.  gj 

channd  to  the  louthward.  But  we  w^re  safe,  and  quiet;  with  the 
'  securitpr  that  if  this  ice  should  dear  away,  we  could  easily  git  out 
by  ^d  jpf  the  tide,  add  take  advantage  of  the  opening.  The  tem- 
perature of  the  air  was  from  34"  to  35*,  and  that  of  the  water  Sa". 
At  midn^ht  there  was  rain,  the  wind  continuing  fresh. 

It  nihhd  heavily  all  the  morning,  and  a  good'  deal  of  smdl  ice 
drifted  into  the  hariK)ur,ph>Ving  that  there  was  a  considerable  quan- 
tity inoyins  along  the  strait  with  the  current  We  therefore  pro- 
ceeded in  the  boat,  to  examine  into  the  condition  of  things  outside, 
more  particularly,  And  landed  on  the  northern  isthaius.  We  thus 
saw,  that  at  the  back  of  the  great  isthmus,  the  quantity  of  ice  was 
much  diminished  since  the  preceding  day,  while  there  was  a  bay  to 
the  eastward  quite  clear;  but,  near  the  mainland,  it  was  still  closely 
-packed.  The  west  side  of  the  southern  islands,  however,  were  also 
clear  of  ice.  In  this  excursion  we  saw  some- reinrdeer,  and  shot 
three  white  hares.  The  air  felt' warm;  but,  on  board,  the  thermo- 
meter was  only  36%  the  weather  being  calm,  witll  k  thick  fog. 

8th.  Though  things  remained  in  the  same  Hate  fill  noon,  we  ex- 
pected a  wind,  and  therefore  left  the  harbour  by  means  of  the  ebb  . 
and  of  towing;  making  fast  to  an  iceberg  at  the  entrance,  that  we 
■  might  be  ready.  But  the  wind  coming  now  from  the  soUthisouth- 
east,  we  could  proceed  |o  furthw^  and  I  therefwe  sent  a  parly  to 
examine  the  state  of  thiiigs  along  shore,  in  the  whale  hoat,  which 
was,  however,  obliged  to  stop  after  proceeding  two  miles.  Being 
then  hauled  up,  the  party  proceeded  by  land  along  the  isthmus,  and 
thus  saw  that  the  ice  was  closed  up  to  a  rock  at  its  termination,  so 
as  to  prevent  all  further  passage  in  this  diieetioa.  Two  rocky  is- 
.  lands  and  a  good  harbour  were  also  seen  in  this  quarter;  as  it  was 
further  ascertained,  that  while  the  shore  was  covered  with  heavy  ice, 
the  channd  of  moving  ice  and  water  lay  -between  it  and  the  heavy 
pack  which  was  about  three  miles  (^. 

The  evening  bdng  calm,  and  the  ice  stationary.  Commander  Ross 
went  on  shore  to  take  an^es,  and  »n  his  way  found  a  dead  deer, 
which  we  had  wounded  on^ur  first  hndingJ  It  was  so  large  that 
tiiey  eould  only  brin^  on  HSrd  the  head  and  horns,  leaving  it  for 
flie  next  day  to  remove,  a  carcase  too  valuaUe  to  be  lost  Men 
'Jv?»re  also  sent  to  erect  a  cdm  <rf  stones  to  mark  the  entrance  of  Hie 
harbour,  otherwise  diflSeult  to  find,  in  case  we  should  be  obliged  to 
return  to  it  Landin(&  myself,  afterwards,  I  obtained  a  good  view, 
from  the  north  side,  of  the  several  places  that  we  had  paraed,  killinc 
also  two  hares.  At  eight  the  wind  was  light,  and  southerly,  with 
e^  weaker  in  the  night,  the  tempentnre  of  the  air  from  34«»  to 
36  ,  and  that  of  the  water  Sa«.  Our  fresh  water  was  replenished, 
and  many  seds  were  seen.  ,    . 

ki^il*J?^****®**  stnictare  of  this  pMi  of  the  coast  exactiy  rasiin. 
Ue^What  we  had  formerly  examine]},  with  perhaps  more  vadeties 
oi  ^Hamte,  o^  gndn;  the  whitish  shde  of  the  limestone  cOntuninK 
shells  as  before.    The  soundimn  were  in  d«viM  «ni.«h  » «»  m^^t.1 


:-•*? 


■r.t. 


"% 


■•-")■'- 


■  -^ 

.::■,■  . 
I 

r^' 

:"'*<:, 

» 

o-  "  — 

•uwgu  m 

TV 

t 

: ? 

■  '.^ 

^ 

■V' 

■ 

■<■ 

\ 

.  I 

'. 

■t- 

"^ 

i 

-^w  -«...»  ,    t, 


t:.. 


84 


\    ^     ■/         ■ 

SECOITD  TOTAOiB  OP  DISOOTSBT 


SLS^*?  ^"^^^  **^  ^^  ^~"'  ^  Some  sandstone  was  also 
l.b-Z!?f    ?*;  "•'*.'"  T?"J'  *^  **  """^^  t«^y  there  were  accumJ^ 

««^tLLT    *''*''^'  *?/"?  *®  largest  plant  growing.    Near  the        /I 

i1h«?1  ;  ?°"*"*«?"«  extent,  covered  with  vegetation;  4ch  of^e 
wTJir„^f  ih^"'  of  which  the  largest  seeded  abo'ut  twoS 
fKf  fir  Jk°  K  *'"*r'"\'''?  ^*^  ^^^  Th««' "  before,  were 
S Vim  i  ^^  "*  "•*".  ^l***  °°  "»«"»«  °f  taking.  Many  hares, 
far  from  shy,  were  concealed  among  the  rocks,  and  tracks  Jf  reS. 

Er„Z;;j**"^^ ?!.*?■*•  <^"  the  north'side  the  remaiS^f 
Esquimaux  summer  habitations  were  numerous,  together  with  fox- 
tra^  and  bones  of  whales;  but  all  of  so  old  a  date  S  to  sh^w  tSt 
It  was  long  smce  this  part  of  the  shore  had  been  inhabited 

from  thf  J?!."*"-?  "^S  ?^*  this  day,  with  an  occasional  light  air 
from  the  southward,  sufficient,  with  the  current,  to  prevent  us  from 

S^  ^  "  readmess  m  case  of  a  favourable  change.  It  froze  so 
hard  m  the  preiaous  night,  that  the  harbour  was  cofered  wiSTbay 

^er  ,f^  Ti  5^,  ^I  '^*y  *~"8^  ^t-  Towards  evening,  how- 
S.  S^.**' AT^'^'.^J?"  **'  '^hicK  had  been  formeTin  the 
«.^  41.  ^?"»tthreeo'clockitwa8likeasummer'sdayinEndand- 
and,  though  close  to  the  iceberg,  the  temperature  on  SaiS  w^» 

whUe  on  shore  it  was  410.    xfi^,  indeedrhadan  uWmJSL^^^ 
AeXi^'V'^?'''  *^^«**  "^^  *^  ^y^  killed" wL^lS^fiffor 

i»ft?£«  •\'^'*5*"^'^^  *''*"''°8  fi^n»  the  north-west  at  dayliirht,  we 
inl^  alf i^?  •!  hj^f-past  three,  and  Stood  out  among  tJ?S,^ 
i^J    ^'*'I'  "t^enng  through  various  lanes  and  oSeninBTwLch 

^tlvl^J?"*^"**?^  BSt  at  two  o'dock^r^dSTdt 
fecfly  against  us;  and  it  was  with  much  difficulty  Trie  rea^  «» 

oST2l.*^"'^  ■aa'*'*  °^  September,  and  about  eight  miJfiSm 
«„i^^^r  ^^'*!r?h?"'^however,theiceaStinwitbMS 
wpidity,  that  we  were  obliged  to  cast  off;  when  a  more  ftvoureble 
breeze  enabled  us  to  reach  a  small  harbow  in  the  passL  K^ 

tiontte"4h*'  "^°'"'"**  ^  --  •"«  ^  r?Sto  aS. 

pH^^'k^t!!* ~  ®"*^**^  *°  *"^  °» the  island^;  and,  having  uKend-  . 
t.tl  *^*Jt  "«»»t  near  us,  we  had  a  gpS  view  ot  the'^JSTof 
£ti!!'  TJ'*'*  '^  "uch  as  to  mak($  us  resSv*  to  attempt  a  Mssa« 

SlJri  u  **P  '^  therefore  Kt^iped,  with  much  toU  and 
^L^TJ^ * "^r •"•*  ^J^^nSliding to  the  cSnS, 
and  made  fast  to  an  iceberg,  a^  the  rocks,  fit,m  w&ch  i^wL 


^■^i 


-  -*.  j4ay«»*»«<<M^|«4»«)«*M«*^^g*i«!Ai*-. 


\ 


TO  THB  AICTIC  BSClIOint. 


8ft 


not  more  than  half  her  length  distant,  in  three  fiithoma  water."  It 
was  not)  howeyer,  a  ^ood  place;  since  the  ice  set  both  ways,  altera 
nately,  with  great  rapidity,  so  as  to  be  in  constaitt  motion. 

Angles  were  here  taken  from  a  cairn  which  we  erected  on  the 
highest  hill,  being  about  three  hundred  feet,  and  sketches  made. 
The  furthest  projecting  land  was  an  inland  bcuiring^south-east,  at  a 
considerable  distance  from  the  point  of  the  mainland.  The  outer- 
most of  the  islands  on  which  we  were  seemed  about  a  mile  bng,  and 
the  land  formed  a  great  bay,  in  which  we  counted  nine  islands  and 
some  clusters  of  islets;  together  with  two  inlets,  and  some  openings 
that  seemed  to  constitute  three  good  harbours.  Here  we  also  con- 
cluded that  our  best  chance  of  proceeding  appeared  to  be  by  the 
channel  within  these  islands,  and  dose  to  the  mainland;^  as  the  ice 
was  all  broken  up,  though  thick  and  heavy,  and  was  likely  to  move 
with  the  first  fitvoiirable  wind. 

The  islands  on  which  we  now  were,  turned  out  to  conrist  of 
gneiss,  I  presiime,  disposed  in  inclined  beds  with  vertical  fissures; 
and  in  two  little  valleys  there  was  some  vegetation,  thou^  the 
greater  part  of  the  surface  was  quite  bare^  The  aspect  of  desolation 
was  indeed  extreme;  nor  did  we  see  the  trace  of  any  living  cieature. 
The  temperature  of  the  air  was  S4*>,  and  that  of  the  water,  31  °. 

1 1/A.  Our  iceberg  floated  last  nij^t  at  half-past  twelve;  but  we  at 
last  succeeded  in  mooring  it,  together  with  Ourselves,  to  the  rocks 
within  a  small  bight  on  the  side  of  the  stream;  while,  as  it  drew 
mora  water  than  the' ship,  it  kept  us  frqm  grounding;  allowing  us 
to  lie  quiet  all  night  Within  a  few  jrards  oTtiie  rocks,  and  in  three 
&thoms  water.  After  a  foggy  morning, '  tiiere  j^peared,  at  one, 
some  chance  of  moving,  as  there  was  a  fresh  breeze  from  the  north* 
west  The  attempt,  however,  was  made  in  vain;  and,  after  three 
hours  of  hard  labour,  we  «ouId  neither  proceed  nor  extricate  the 
ship,  so  that  we  were  oblij^  to  submit  ourselves  to  the  ice,  which 
was  now  closely  packed  m  the  whole  channel  wMeh  it  oceupieZ 
,  It  was  in  vain  that  we  attempted  to  disengage  ourselves,  evm  when 
<  It  got  into  motion;  laboorins  hard  jfbr  this  purpose  till  ten  o'clock: 
but  a  calnr  occurring  at  midnight,  we  became  comparatively  tran- 
quil and  easy. 

.  12th.  Neyerthelefls  it  vras  a  critical  position,  Jieset  in' the  rapid 
current  of  a  rocky  channel,  at  the  spring  tides  of  the  autumnal  equi-' 
nox;  and,  as  the  tide  rose,  the  heavy  masses  of  ice  whicli  were  set 
afloat  mcreased  our  danger,  its  action  fbreing  them  on  us.  We 
therefore  thoudit  ourselves  lucky  in  getting  hold  of  a  grounded 
iceberg;  thougfi  the  points  of  rocks  were  appearing  aU  art^nd,  and 
close  by  our  ^ip.  Unfortunately,  however^  a  wind  springing  up  from 
toe  westward,  brought  down  an  additional  quantity  of  iw.  Wore 
delight,  with  a  great  increase  of  pressure;  when  the  whole  mass 
began  to  move  to  the  eastward  with  frightful  rapidity,  canying 
Jong  wrth  It  our  helpless  ship^  and  amidst  a  collision  and  noise,  frm^ 
the  breaking  of  the  ice  agvnst  the  rocks,  which  was  truly  awfol. 


1 1 


s^rtwir*- 


A»* 


•■'i" 


•I 

i 

i, 


t.(  t 


**  SBCOKD  VOTAO*  OF  DIMOVMT        *r 

/The  day  hia  acarcely  damned  when  we  found  ounelvei  near  to  a 

I   Sif  JJXr ^"l?'?."!!"^*'''  «"»<*  it  '^w  for  ««n6  time  doubtful 

f   «to  whwh  we  ahould  be  huiried,  or  whether  we  mixht  not  rather 

te  dnven  on  the  rocks  which  surrounded  us  on  all  ^de.,^melS: 

lnIt??T"*^"°'*~r*^^«'*-    B"t  our  good  fortune'prevailS^ 
■Bd  the  stream  earned  us  into  the  northernmost  and  widertpassaw 
thpugh  .t  was  to  the  north-eastMHu.d,  and  therefore  othei^^ro*!?; 
.w»i„        i!"*'  °  comblete  our  iuccess^such  as  it  was,  the  ice 

toBordinary  exertions;  on  which,  making  her  fast  to  a  grounded  iw- 
te„r^^  found^ourselyes  n«r  the  point  on  the  horth'^ride  of  thi^ 
channel,  and  ielt  oi^ftelves  thus  secure  for  a  time.  "  "   ™» 

M^^^h^M  "{?^*'lL°**  ^P^^^y  when  conterting  our  way io  this 
^the  ah,p  had  been^repeatedly  raised,  «d  «metimiJ1«eJed 
over  by  the  pressure;  while  the  Krusenstem  was  once  S»C^ 
of  the  wat«»  on  the  ice.  But  neither  received  any  inj^  We 
t^  ST''  ?  i?  "T''^=  «»"'  «very  new  adventure  J^^ 
had  Ae  good  effect  of  ncreasing  our  confidence,  iathe  case  dffiSS 
«d  sunflar  emwtencies;  of  which,  it  was  iSt  too  certain,^, 
were  many  yet  before  us.  v«.«««,i«wb, 

w^iJ^if?*'''*^*^*^'*'^"**  **'  a  rapid  one,  setting  io  the 
^ward,  droT«us  from  our  place  of  refuge;  md  we  wcrfcanied 

mthmia,reeyardsirf^somerock.which  wire  just  undet  watenS  - 

ST^  iL  F.£"iJ^'J'l?  ***"'  ««tti°«  into  ^seemeSto  bcrtS 
w^r,  we  tboured  hard  by  warping;  there  be%  a  small  creek  »m- 

^tSL^""**  'll^^'i  ^^^'^  outa«t>miseTf  securi^Tto, 
^»H  Sl^.  J  P^^  ^**  •  whirlpool!:  and  having  be^  tum3 

tSu!!!*-!^!!  *°""**^^  '*°l*  '""^to  *»»  confusion  without 
of  ice  which  was  floafang  alon^  in  the  middle  of  the  stream;  HoSm 

m  ™^l,*  T^u'^  V  ^  had  just  been  enduri^gT  ^ 
We  were  thus  at  length^  extricated,  but  not  without  undeSroinK 

i^Sf '*^'*'  "^'^  ^^^  ""^"K  ™  to  the  westward,  evS 
^,^!Ll23"« '^''^^-  .The  tide,  however,  diminish^iTSreTS 
we  proceeded;  and  as  the  smaller  pieces  of  ioe  now  sailing  ^  " 

^t^a^^r^'''''^'^'^  wereattachedXlhTbl 

sst^Ur^irctr^^jt^! '^^ '"^  *» -^^ 

fluence  before  the  change.    But  the  wind  was  righf^iTuir^d 

v^'  bv'SI^t  *?  '^^  "^"  n«r"  ^»*»»  our  sa^and  sich  J 
JhuT  ^  P*n"S.**»  wiiMiward;  ^lle,  to  anchor  in  a  tidew»y  like 
Aiswas  outof  the  question.    Thus  we  soon  found  that  i^  were 
losing  ground;  but  at  four  o'clock^e  began  to  gain  coMWerSr 
when  It  fell  suddenly  calm.    A  harbour  n^  sJ^b^StS^J; 


r-   ' 


TO  TKS  ABCTIC  SKGIOHI. 


87 


in  the  aeareat  land,  w«  contrived  to  waip  into  it  by  neami  of  the 
boats,  and  foundvAiod  shelter  behind  a  reef  of  rocks,  lined  by  ice* 
bergp,  within  a  dkble'a  length  of  the  shore;  making  fast  to-two.of 
these  masses  which  were  agrpund  in  four  fathoms  water. 

More  than  I  ampng  us  had  witnessed  similar  SGeikgi|and,  in  some 
manner  or  other,  we  had  been  extricated:  but,  wiUi  all  this,  we 
"•^tould  not  but  feel  astonishment,  as  well  as  gratitude,  at  our  having 
escaped  here  without  material  damage.    For  readers,  it  is  unfortu- 
nate that  no  description  cap  convey  an  idea  of  a  scene  of  this  na- 
hire;  and,  as  to  the  pencil,  it  cannot  represent  motion,  or  noise. 
And  to  those  who  have  not  seen  a  northern  ocean  in  winter — who 
have  not  seen  it,  I  should  say,  in  a  winter's  storm— the  term  ice, 
exciting  but  the  recollection  of  what  they  only  know  at  rest,  in  an 
inland  lake  or  canal,  conveys  no  ideas  of  what  it  is  the  fate  of  ,an 
':^  awjtic  navigator  to  witoess  and  to  feel.    But  let  them  remember  that 
ice  v-^ne;  a  floating  rock  in  the  stream,  a  promontory  or  an 
island  when  aground,  not  less  solid  than  if  it  were  a  land  of  granite. 
TTien  let  them  imague,  if  they  can,  these  mountains  of  crystalhurled 
thrwigh  a  nurrpw  strait  by  a  rapid  tid^;  meeting,  as  mountains  in 
motion  would  meet,  with  the  nois^^  thunder,  breaking  from  each 
other's  precipicM  huge  frayimw^or  rending  each  o)her  asunder, 
Wi,  l08in|5  their  former  equilibrium,  they  fall  over  headlong,  lifting 
^e  wa  around  in  breakers,  and  whirling  it  in  eddies;  while  the  flat- 
ter fields  of  ice,  forced  against  these  masses,  or  against  the  rocks,  by 
the  wind  and  the  stream,  rise  out  of  the  sea  till  they  fall  back  on 
themselves,  adding  to  the  indescribable  commotion  and  noise  which 
attend  thes^  occurrences. 

_  It  is  not  a  little,  too,  to  know  and  to  feel  our  utter  helplessness  in 
!^  ''^  ^*"' "  '*°'  *  moment  in  which  it  can  be  conjectured 
what  mil  happen  in  the  next:  there  is  not  one  which  maynot  be 
the  last;  and  yet  that  next  moment  may  bring  rescue  and  safety.  It 
IS  a  stranae,  as  it  is  an  anxious  position;  and,  if  fearful,  often  givine 
S;„!Sw«  '  tfll**  unexpected  is  every  event,  and  so  quicic  thi 
teansih^Ds.  ^  the  noise,  and  the  motion,  and  the  huary  in  every 
thing  around,  we  distracting,  if  the  attention  is  troubled  to  fix  on 
*°7  t'Mng  .an»»d  such  confusion,  still  must  it  be  alive,  that  it  may 
vif  ?*K  *V»«»«  moment  of  help  or.  escape  which  may  ocCuf. 
,  Yet  wij  aU  tlM,  and  it  is  the  hardest  task  of  Jl,  there  is  noL^ 

»J'f!f*^'r*^?.***i^*  °T*^=  ^  *0"8^  "^  very  sight  of  the 
movemeirt  around  mcbnes  the  seaimtn  to  £  himself  busyf  while  we 

^^^fl2T^  the  instinctWdirects  „.  ^  help  Lselves  in 
^\^  ^^'  ^  u"?  ^  I«tf»ent,  as  if  he  were  unconcerned  or 

manner  in  which  Sie  had  been  st«n^ened.    It  is  plain  that  eiSier 


W  i  s 


i  t 


i- 


:ii 


r 


■1 


taoojnt'VQf AAJi  Of  onQovBir 


»• 


'(#^■^5^^-% 


■■^■.    . 


the  ihipi  eniDloyed  on  the  former  expeditioiu  must  have  b«ea 

•re  lort,  from  their  mere  draught  of  water,  linoe  th«y  would  have 

uok  on  thf>  rocka  over  which  we  were  hurried  by  the  ice;  while, 

h(Jw«?ver  forUfied,  they  would  have  been  oruahed  Bke  a  nutaheuTn 

ec^naequene^gjll^eirahape.  -u«*,« 

lOor  poaitSS;  ffter  tbia  adventure,  waa  on  the  mainland,  aeven 

.  milea  from  the  cairn  which  we  had  erected  on  the  tenth:  beinc  not 

•Uf°"  *^°  harboura,  oph  on  each  aide  of  us;  which  I  namedT 

The  night  waa  clew,  and  it  began  to  freeze  at  eleven.  At  mid- 
njght  there  waa  a  vi4g_ecUpai  of  the  mo^n,  but  the  weather  did 
njt  permit  of  any  obi^tiona.  I  named  the  pUce  Eclipse  harbour; 
and  we  found  high  water,  with^a  nae  of  aeven  feet,  at  a  quarter  be^ 
Ipro  three,  at  full  moon.  . 

A  I8/A.  Ebrlv  in  the  morning  t  aac^nded  the  high  land  near  the 
fliore,  by  which  I  found  that  it  waa  poaaible  to  proceed  a  few  mUea 
.along  the^coaat:  and,  after  building  A  cairn  and  taking  aome  anidea. 
rreturned  on  board,  and  we  got  under  way  at  nine  with  a  weateriy 
?i;S1"«i  1*^*^,*?  ^'^  MMthward  through  ntew  ice  which  of- 
fered litUe  reaiatattce  J  and,  aa  we  proceeded,  Se  heavy  maaaea  be- 
came mora  dack.  Paaring  »  ru^  point,  with  iceberga  aground. 
It  received  the  name  of  Cape  AlUngton,  being  the  boundarvTere,  of 

theapaaouaharbourjuatmentionedby  the  naniekEcUhae  harbm^ 
v  We  very  aoon  rounded  a  cluater  of  ialeta,  which,  aa  equaUy  new, 
I  named  Grace;  and,  paaaing  theip>  we  aaw  a  round  ialand,  now  alao 
wed  Louiaa.    lyithin  theae,  such  channel  aa  thero  seemed,  waa 

^iif:  ***,'."?  *«^ow»P««ng  to  the  eaatwardi  We  approached, 
at  tld^  0  clock,  a  ampoth  rocky  ialand  about  two  mileain  ciroum- 
fi^nee.  ^t  being  calm,  we  atteihpted  ti  tow  the  ahip  between'it 
and  the  prepediog  onea;,  when  the  tide  changed,  and  we  wera  dad 
to  aecuie  ouraelvea  for  the  night  to  an  iceberg  that  was  aground  nttr 
it,  which  formed  a  anug  harbour  with  an  ialet  with  wlu^  it  wo  in 
Mntact  ,  -  ^  ««?^*i.  »ir-»  Ml 

.   Thia  ialand  was  tW  niaea  Irom  EdSpae  hartxmr;  |^^  a^n 
from  the  ejctremihr  of  the  land  to  the  aoii&ward.    Oh  inapection, 
w«»  found  It  a  aolid  i^paaa  of  granite  intei^ted  by  veina:  pad  we  ^ 
got^obaerved  &a|5menta  of  pmeatone  and  6f  yeUow  aa^^atone. 
Here  w?  j.uilt  a  wm,  with  a  pole  on  which  waa  ftatened  the  ahip'a 

toSS^  rtf?*^*.*^*^^*^^"/^P'^-  Theprogpwtwaaauehaa 
to  ahbw  ua  that^  £ur  wmd  ^rnght  carry  ua  dear  of-the  ice  aa  far  aa 
that  point  which^aeem^d  aevwi  milea  off;  but  beyond  thia  we  could 
barely  Jiaoom  that  the  }and  did  not  trend  to  the  eaatwaid.    An 

ialand  waa  aejn,  0^  with, |te  cape;  and^  pear  thia,  a  harbour,  which 
waa  named  Lax  idand,  whjle,  to  a  large  inlet,  f^U  of  ice,  aouth  of 
thia,  I  ttve  the  name  of  Miiy  Jones  bay.  ^ 

On  the  aouth  side  there  were  amaller  inleta  and  creekar  and.  to 
the  north,  a  remarkable  mountain,  shaped  like  a  tomb,  and  covered 
on  tiie aouth  aide  with  areddiah  vegetation.  It  waa  named  Chrw- 
tian  s  monument    FroeiSeding  along  the  coaat,  we  found  an  E^qui- 


3"' 
.w 


J_.. 


V.       ' 


-**--. 


.\ 


'p 


*• . 


tuct  have  bfea 
ley  would  have 
the  ice;  wh|le, 
e  a  Qutihell,  in 

tainland,  aeyeii 
nth;  being  not 
1 1  named, 
ven.  At  mtd- 
le  weather  did. 
clipse  harbour; 
t  a  quarter  be- 

land  near  th6 
ed  a  few  milea 
{oome  angles, 
rith  a  westerly 
r  ice  which  of- 
tvy  nuuMeebe- 
>e<rgs  agjnound, 
ndary  here,  of 
Ji|Me  harbour. 
I  equally  new, 
land,  now  also 
)  secuftted,  was 
'e  approached, 
lesinchxum- 
ap  between'^it 
we  were^^d 
ajground  near 
hufh^it  was  in 

vtf'jfj^  s^n 
ih  -inspeeti<>n, 
eins;  iii4  we  - 
w  saOM^ne. 
led  the  ship's 
t  wassuehas 
i  ioe.asfiuras 
this  we  could 
stward.  An 
fhour,  which 
ice,  south  of 

ieks;  and,  to 
and  coveied 
libed  Chris- 
idjBitl^ui- 


rf 


^       -   TO  Tsii  AacTic  ftBoioirs. 


V  .«'  » 


89f      ^ 


maux  fox-trap,  with  some  remains  of  summerhabitations,  and  counted 
thirty-three  islands  of  different  sizes.  The  vegetation  on  this  island, 
which  is  in  the  middle  of  the  bay,  was  very  backward  compared  to 
that  on  the  mainland. 

•  The  new  ice  hAd  totally  dissolved  this  day ;  the  temperature  of  the 
air  being  38*,  and  that  of  the  sea  32°.  There  was  nd^  no  snow  on 
the  high  mountains  of  the  interior  to  the  southward,  and  all  the  fresh 
water  lakes  and  pools  were  open.  In  the  jBvening  the  wind  came 
from  the  south-south-east,  and  thus  prevented  us  from  moving:  while 
the  Water  fell  so  low  as  to  compel  us  to  haul  further^ut 

l"*'*-  It  was  high  water  soon  after  one  in  iM  morning,  and  the 
tide  rose  to  six  feet  eight' inches,  with  the  flood  from  the  northward. 
The  two  icebergs  to  which  we  were  moo<;ed  just  ^floated;  but  we 
kept  them  fast  to  the  shore  by  ropes  until  th«  tide  had  lowered.  A 
thick  fog  prevented  us  from  moving  till  two;  when,  the  wind  being 
nOi^h-north-west,  we  made  all  sail  and  stood'  for  the. point  through 
Ipose  ice,  which,  however,  soon  closed,  so  as  to  oblige  us  to  run  for 
a  small  bay  to  the  north- of  the  cape.  .',■'■ 

This  proved^  very  sood  shelter:  and  having  gone  on  shore,  and 
ascended  Uphill  on  the  point,  we  saw  that^the  ice  was  still  more 
open  than  itliqd  been  the  day  before,  that  the  laud  trended  more  to 
the  southward,  imd  that  the  outermost  portion  was  but  an  island,  six 
or  seven  miles  fh)m  the  mainland.  Many  fine  harbours  were  also 
visible,  :and  the  shWe  was  intersected  by  inlets  in  f  very  direction. 
Havins  taken  the  uSqal  formal  possession  of  this  cape,  since  even 
that  which  is  nugatory  or  absurd  must  be  done  where  custom  dic- 
tates, a  cairn  and  a  beacon  were  erected,  with  the  ship's  name,  and 
toe  date,  on  a  plate  of  copper,  as  before.  This  cape  was  named 
Verner,  and  the  harbour  Joanna.  The  geology  was  here  nearly 
what  it  had  all  alons  been:  but  one  of  the  mastes  of  grafiite  formed 
a  pyramid  alike  striking  from  its  form  and  its  dimensions,  while  we 
also  perceiyi^^me  coarse  argillaceous  schist 

As  the  poiijt  on  the  north  side  of  the  harbour  was  the  most  conve- 
nient for  observation,  we  erected  a  cairn  here  also,  for  determining 
angles  and  laying  down  positions;  though  it  yasnoHikely  to^irove 
of  much  use  hereafter  in  verifying  the  accuracy  of  the  discoverers. 
Just  before  dark,  toe  channel  between  toe  shore  and  a  small  island 
was  cleared  of  ice  by  toe  rapidity  of  toe  ebb:  but  too  late  to  allow 
up  to  attempt  our  way  torough  it  The  temperature  of  toe  air  waa 
from  35"  to  36°,  and  that  of  toe  sea  from  31°  to  32°  ^1  this  day;  and 
toe  tide  rose  two  feet  less  toan  it  had  done  in  toe  night  preceding 
JNo  animaDi,  nor  any  traces  gf  Eaquhnaux  were  seen. 

19  -  .       ;,.      •        ^      •    ■.  ■ 


^ 


Vi 


;*v 


-  8 


<» 


€# 


n;?' 


(1 


1* 


"y 


^^^■'■'iM'MMiiiiiPli 


mmm 


'  '-■    :) 


90 


SECON^  VOriO£  OF  DI8C0VSBT 


() 


CHAPTEll  XI. 


A 


*3  heavy  Q(tle:  Succession  oftempesttums  ff^eather,  with  Snow- 
Partial  clearing  of  the  Ice,  arid  extrication  from  it— ^Discover 
the.  Island  of  */indrew  Boss,  Cape  Margaret,  Best,  Harbour ^ 
and  Mdrtin  Islands— ji\^ew  Bay — End  of  September — Gene- 
ral Bemarks  on  the  past  progress  qfthe  Ship,  and  the  mode  of 
navigating af^^  Ice.  ^  „..„„_ 

Sept.  1 5th.  *rHE  sky  had  woS-n  a^ery  unsettled  aspect  on  tile  pre- 
ceding evening;  and  the  wind,  ribing,  increased  to  lai  stoirm  during 
the  night  Having  also  veered  round  to  tiie  northward,  it  brought 
around  us  a  great  quantity  of  heavy  ice pso  that,  at  daylight,  we 
found  ourselves  completely  locked  ki,  to  our  n<^«mall  vexation, 
which  was  much  augmented  by  seeing  clear  vvate/within  a  quarter 
of  a  mile.  Every  exertion  was  mad§  tb  warp  out,  or  to  extricate 
ourselves  in  some  manner:  but  a  whole  forenoon  of  hard  labour 
gained  us  scarcely  more  than  fou;;  fimes  th6  length  of  our  ship.  At 
length  the  ice  accumulated  to  such  a  degree,  that  we  were  obliged 
to  abandon  the  attempt  ■<  ^ 

In  the  mean  time  the  storm  increased,  with  squaljs  of  snow,  so  as 
to  render  our  situation  both,  critical  and  uncomfortable;  since  we 
could  nbt  regain  the  harbour  which  we  had  so  prematurely  left 
Thus  exposed  to  the  storm,  the  pressure  of  the  ice  was  also  to  be 
feared,  as  the  icebergs  were  accumulating  on  the  shores  of  the  capO) 
which  they  were  too  deep  to  pass.  At  length  the  one  to  which  we 
wgre  moored  went  aflpat,  giving  us  much  trouble:  while  the  largest 
one  near  us  split  into  six  pieces,  with  a  noise  like  thundier;  falling 
over  and  throwing  up  the  wiater  all  around.     One  of  these  fragments 

five  our  ship  a  violent  ^hock;  and  another,  rising  up  beneath  the 
nisenstern,  lifted  her  out  of  the  water  oi^the  ice,  and  then  launched  > 
her  off  again.  Fortunately,  no  damage  was  sustained. 
->  The  night  tide  was  further  diminished,  and  we  continued,  after 
this  li»t  adventure,  to  be  not  far  from  the  point  of  the  cape  behind 
which  was  the  dear  water:  while  we  were  obliged  to  wait  with  pa- 
tience for  some  favourable  change  of  the  wind.  The  thermometer 
was  at  34**,  land  the  snow  was  so  heavy  j«  to  cover  the  mountains. 
A  party  was  sent  to  the  cairn,  to  examine  into  the  state  of  the  ice, 


*;- 


.* 


5.  *!3J 


J  1   ' 


■>-^' 


mth  Snow — 
it— ^Discover 
est,  Harbmrt 
mber — Gene- 
Ithe  mode  of 


St  on  die  pre- 
storm  during 
rd,  it  brought 
daylight,  we 
tall  vexation, 
hin  a  quarter 
'  to  extricate 
hard  labour 
ur  ship.  At 
ivere  obliged 

f  snow,  80  as 
le;  since  we 
naturely  left, 
is  also  to  be 

of  the  cape) 
to  which  we 
e  the  largest 
ndier;  falling 
se  fragments 

beneath  the 
len  launched. 

tinued,  after 
cape  behind 
'ait  with  pa- 
hermometer 
mountains. 
!  of  thp  ice. 


m 


TO  ISlOS!  ^CTIC  REGIONS.     •    '  ^  ''  91 

and,  having  returned,  they  reported  it  to  be  quite  closed  to  the 
southward,  with  exception  of  a  naitow  lane  of  water  along  the  land, 
which  now  appeared  to  trend  more  to  the  southward.  Shortly,  the 
temperature  fell,  to  28°,  with  clearer  weather  andjAhe  barometer 
risinjg.  The  latitude  of  this  cape  was  found  to  be  76°  22',  and  the 
longitude  92**  15',  which,  with  the  correction,  is  probably  91®. 

IQth.  The  wind  was  somewhat  more  moderate  this  diay,  and  the 
weather  milder;  but  the  ice  was  quite  close  every  where,  excepting 
for  a  small  space  on  the  sotith  side  of  the  cape.  We  went  on  shore 
to  survey  the  channel  through  which  we  had  intended  to  pass;  when 
we  saw  that  there  were  two  reefs  of  rocks  in  the  middle  of  it  It 
was  a  lesson  to  our  impatience;  as  it  was  one  among  many  incidents 
occurring  in  this  voyage,  calculated  to  teach  us  that  apparent  mis- 
fortunes are  often  benefits.  Had  we  been  but  ten  minutes  Moner, 
w^N^uldJhave  made  the  attempt;  and,  without  a  miracle^  thi^son- 
sequences  must  have  been  fatal.  Of  this,  we  could  entertain  no 
doubt,  when  we  saw  that  their  depth  would  then  have  been  six  feet, 
enough  to  conceal  them  from  us,  while,  on  taking  the  giiound,  we 
should  have  been  overwhelmed  by  the  descending  masses  of  ice. 
Thus  was  our  disappointment  converted  into  a  source  of  enjoyment, 
and  of  self-gratulation:  with  the  same  knowledge  on  the  day  before, 
w6  should  have  thought  our  icy  prison  a  paradise. 

A  little  before  noon,  the  wind,  shifted  suddenly  to  the  south-east; 
and  blew  a  gale;  while  we  had  in  the  mean  time  mooi«d  to  the 
largest  floe  in  the  passage,  that  we  might  be  ready  in  case  of  any  fa- 
vourable chance.  In  consequence  of  this  retversal  of  the  wind,  the 
ice  bigan  t»  move  in  the  opposite  direction  ,to  what  we  had  ex- 
pected: so  that  we  were  glad  to  regain  our  position  in  the  bay, 
though  this  was  not  effected  without  several  hours  of  warping. 

Going  on  shore  in  the  evening,  we  had  the  satisfaction  of  seeing 
that  the  ice  was  fast  leaving  the  land,  and  that  it  would  probably  al- 
low us  to  try  again  in  the  morning,  with  the  probability  of  makinic 
ten  or  fifteen  miles.  We  here  found  that  the  fine  harbour  to  the 
floufli  of  the  cape  had  an  entrance  from  a  bay  to  the  southward,  and 
also  Mother  from  one'to  the  northward,  rendering  the  cape  itself  an 
island.  The  channel  was  narrow  and  crooked,  and  singularly  inter- 
sected by  the  projections  of  hilly  points  on  both  sides,  with  inlets 
branching  m  every  direction.  The  harbour  was  clear  of  ice,  and  con- 
tained  three  inlets.    We  here  saw  three  hares. 

The  observations  at  noon  confirmed  yesterday's  latitude.  The 
thermometer  in  the  twenty-four  hours,  varied  from  30°  to  340  the 
water  being  at  29°;  and  there  was  new  ice  in  the  pools  among  the 
rocks  on  shore.  Various  bearings  were  taken;  and  we  thought  that 
the  land  trended  less  to  the  east  than  we  had  formerly  supposed; 
rendering  it  a  nutter  of  hope,  rather  than  of  aught  elsejhat  we  had 
now  arrived  at  die  soutii-eastern  e^ti^mity  of  tiiis  land. 
At  ten  at  night  the  wind  suddenly  changed  to  the  north-west,  and 


'M 


! 
1 


0f' 


>t 


98 


4 


SBCOND  TOTAOB  07  DISCOVERT 


;"*' 

-   -"'. 


blew  with  increased  yiolence;  when,«nce  more,  the  ice  which  had 
»  not  yet  cleared  the  bajr,  closed  in  upon  our  protecting  icebergs,  forc- 
ing us  to  carry  out  additional  ropes,  both  to  them  and  the  shore. 
The  Krusenstern  wai  transported  to  a  place  of  safety  in  the  inner- 
most harbour;  and,  during  the  night,  it  blew  extremely  hard,  with 
squalls  of  snow;  thej  thermometer  falling  to  21"  in  the  air,  and  23° 
in  the  water.  We /had  therefore,  once  more,  great  i«ason  to  be 
thankful  that  we  had  not  been  able  to  g6t  out  of  this  haven,  where 
the  heavy  masses  of  ice  around  us  afforded  very  tolerable  security, 
«ince  they  were  akround  on  all  sides,  and  exerted  no  pressure 
against  us.  / 

nth.  The  gale  continued  with  undiminished  fury  from  the  north- 
-  ywd  quarter,  accompanied  by  heavy  squalls  of  snow;  and  the  sea 
froze  as  it  washed  over  our  decks  and  th^  adjoining  icebergs.  The 
outer  edge  of  the  ice  to  windward  was  but  a  mile  from  us;  and,  on 
this  as  well  as  the  islands,  the  sea  broke. in  a  tremendous  manner, 
producing  a  considerable  swell,  even  where  we  lay,  though  sheltered 
by  a  pomMf  land  and  this  extensive  tract  of  ice.  The  thermometer 
in  the  air  fell  to  21°,  and  the  water  to  about  28«>;  and  though  the 
tide  rose  high,  the  icebergs  did  not  float  In  the  evening  the  ice 
broke  up  so  much  as  to  bring  the  open  water  a  quarter  of  a  mile 
nearer  to  us;  and,  in*  noi  long  time,  the  wind  became  more  mode- 
rate; while  some  masses  of  ice  Werts  seen  floating  through  the  •chan- 
nel of  our  intended  passage,  which  displayed  a  good  deal  of  clear 

18if^.  The  moderating  of  the  wind  on  the  preceding  evening  was 
but  a  delusive  promise.  In  the  night,  the  gale  increased  once  moret 
and  to  a  degree  of  violence  exceeding  all  that  we  had  yet  felt,  ac- 
companied, as  before,  by  snow.  As  some  of  the  icebergs  began  to 
move,  three  large  masses  came  across  our  bows,  threatening  to  break 
the  two  cables  which  we  had  made  fast  to  the  rocks,  and'obliirinK  us 
to  carry  out  a  third.  The  ice  on  the  outside  of  us  was  soon  trokeh 
up  by  the  swell,  and  at  daybreak  the  waves  reached  within  a  qiafter 
ofa  Mile  of  the  ship:  while  the  motion  of  the  solid  masses  around 
produced  such  an  agitation  in  her  as  to  compel  us  to  carrv  out 
ateadying  ropes  and  fenders.  ' 

,^  cohsequence  oftte  tide  now  rising  to  an  unusual  height,  many 
ieibergs  drove  near  lb  the  shore;  but  as  that  fell,  things  became 
compantively  quiet:  though  the  rapid  destruction  of  the  ice;  under 
all  the  present  violence,  gave  us  great  alarm  lest  we  should  lose  the 
proteetion  which  had  hitherto  sheltei^  us  so  well.  At  ten  in  the 
morning,  thinton,  we  went  on  shore,  in  hopes  of  obtaining  a  bet- 
tei*  view  of  «he  circumstances  in  which  we  were  now  ehcaged;  the 
wind  having  once  more  moderated.  We  thus  discoveredthat  there 
was  nothing  to  obstruct  our  passage  as  soon  a#  we  should  be  releas(>d 
from  our  present  durance,  and  that  although  there  was  much  ioe  in 
the  harbour,  it  was  not  such  as  to  prevent  our  entrance. 


n 


& 


I, 


•^^ 


ice  which  had 
icebergs,  forc- 
nd  the  shore. 

in  the  inner- 
ely  hard,  with 
le  air,  and  2S<^ 

reason  to  be 
haven,  where 
rable  security, 
1  no  pressure 

om  the  north- 
;  and  (j^e  sea 
iebergs.    The 
n  us;  and,  on 
idous  manner, 
ugh  sheltered 
thermometer 
i  though  the 
eninr&e  ice 
ber  of  a  mile 
more  mode- 
ighthe'ehan- 
deal  of  clear 
♦ 
;  evening  was 
d  once  morel 
i  yet  felt,  ac- 
srgs  began  to 
niiig  to  break 
d  obliging  us 
sbon^rokeh 
bin  a  qiiat^r 
uuMes  around 
to  carry  out 

height,  many 
iin|^  became 
lie  ice;  under 
iuld  lose  tlie 
t  ten  in  the 
aining  a  bet- 
inpfl^;  the 
ed  that  there 
i  be  releas(>d 
much  ice  in 


ij*k> 


^J^f  JTP  THI  ABOTIC  BKOIONSi  93 

Wa.i^l^SiMtm&rmed  our  former  observations  for  the  latitude:  and 
the  barometer  rose;  as  also  did  the  thermometer,  from  21**  to  28^. 
The  moulding  of  ice  collected  round  the  sides  of  the  ship  drifted  off 
in  consequence,  during  the' course  of  the  day,  as  did  th'e  icicles  which 
had  been  formed  on  the  icebergs.  It  still,  however,  blew  hard:  the 
sea  continued  to  draw  nearer  to  us^.and  the  agitation  was  scarcely 
less;  so  that  the  motion  of  the  ship  was  extremely  troublesome. 
Our  situation  thus  became  so  hazardous  that  we  were  about  to  seek 
a  new  position,  close  to  the  rocks;  when  suddenly^  we  saw  a  fleet  of 
heavy  ice  islands  bearing  down  on  us,  which,  by  five  o'clock,  took 
their  stations  at  the  outer  edge  of  the  now  narrow  field,  and,  in  a 
very  short  timj^  all  was  quiet 

Such  is  the  ice,  and  such  the  compensation  it  offers. for  the  too 
frequent  assaults  which  it  makes,  and  the  obstructions  which  it 
Hsreates.  It  is  far  from  being  an  unmixed  evil;  and,  estimating  all 
our  adventures  with  and  among  it,  I  might  not  be  wrong  in  saying,  • 
that  it  had  much  oftener  been  our  friend  than  our  enemy.  Wq 
could  not,  indeed,  corilmand  the  icebergs  to  tow  us  along,  to  arrange 
themselves  about  us  so  as  to  give  us  smooth  water  in  the  midst  of  a 
ra^ng  sea,  nor,  when  we  were  in  want  of  a  harbour,  to  come  to  our/^ 
assistance  and  surround  us  with  piers  of  crystal,  executing,  in  a  few 
minutes,  works  as  effectoal  as  the  breakwaters  of  Plymouth  or  Cher- 
bourg. But  they  were  commanded  by  Him  who  commands  all 
§,  and  they  obeyed. 

19M.  The  gale  continued,  thouglj^with  somewhat  less  violence;  nor, 
even  towards  night,  was  there  any  announcement  of  ^a  change.    We 
were  safe  within  the  large  pack  which  had  accumulated,  and  could 
now  see  additional  masses  of  blue  ice  attached  to  its  outer  edge;  the 
tea  breaking  high  over  them,  in  a  tremendous  manner.    I  therefore 
went  on  shore,  and  having  a  good  place  for  such  a  record,  caused 
the  ship's  name  and  tfie  date  to  be  painted  on  the  pyramidal  rock 
^rmerly  described:  lUbertaining  the  latitode  at  70*  23Vand  the  Ion-    ^ 
ptode  at  91**.    No  immediate  hope  of  a  removal  was  held  out  by     ^ 
Uie  state  of  the  ice  as  we  now  saw  it  from  the  luid;  but  there  was 
very  little  snow  on  the  ground,  after  all  that  appeared  to  have  fallen, 
and  the  temperature  was  from  25"  to  27°.    How  much  of  the  disap- 
pearance of  this  snow,  on  this,  as  on  many  subsequent  occasions, 
arose  from  the  mere  sweeping  force  of  the  wind,  we  could  not  de- 
termine; but  we  had  often,  in  this  region,  abundant  proof  of  the     „ 
great  evaporation  which  it  undergoes,  even  at  very  low  tempera-  " 
tores;  confirming  a  fact  respecting  the  production  of  vapour,  which 
has  long  been  known  to  meteorology.    In  no  other  way  indeed 
could  we  account  for  the  small  thickness  of  snow  which  generally 
remuned  to  be  convert^  into  water,  by  the  common  process  of 
thawing,  at  the  approach  of  spring;  since  its  hard  frozen  surface     "^ 
very  widely  prevented  the  gales  from  dispersing  it  in  the  form  of 
drift,  while  we  were  quite  sure  that  a  much  larger  quantity  had  ac- 


t 


'.X' 


I  • 


-Tt- — -;-*- 


^ 


.••  I. 


'^. 


« 


j& 


-^1 


m' 


.1* 


i' 


'■1 


H 


H 


■■■:■   ■       ;     / 

«ECOND  vdrAOE  OF  DISCOVERT 


cumulated  during  the  winter  than  that  which  remained  when  the 
'  thaw  conamenced.    On  the  utility  of  this  arrangement  in  diminisHi 
ing  the  great  flow  of  water  which  would  otherwise  take  place  aHfliat 
period,  I  need  make  no  remarks.  .    , 

.  aO/A.  It  was  comparatively  moderate  duri|ig  the  night,  with  the 
«ame  wind,  but  no  snow.  At  daylight  a  large  pack  of  ice  was  Been 
approachma  th^  bay,'  when  it  divided:  one  portion  passing  to  the 
eastward  of  us,  while  the  rest  cldsed  in,  so  as,  in  a  few  hours,  to. 
block  us  up  mo^  completely  than  we  had  ever  yet  been.  After/ 
.  Jvine  service,4he  crew  were  allowed  such  relaxation  on  shore  as 
they  could  contrive  in  such  a  place:  and  the  view  hence  still  showed 
some  clear  water^to  tiie  soiithward,  attainable,  if  we  could  but  ob- 
tain  a  wojterly  wind.  The  thermometer  was  at  27»,  but  there  was 
no  new  ice  in  the  harbour,  although  the  land  pools  were  frozen  over. 
In  the  evening  the  awell  subsidy  eveiy  where,  and  at  midnight  it 

was  cdm  and  freezing  hard;  but  tiie  ice  did  not  open,  as  w^  Eoped 
It  might  do  on  the  ebo.  .  *^ 

21*/.  This  ice  still  appeared  stationary,  there  being  a  light  air 
irom^e  north;  and,  on  examination,  we  found  tiiatthe  huge Masses 
around  us  were  frozen  ^geUier,  giving  us  the  prospect  of  Qng  con- 
demned  to  remain  here  for  Uie  rest  of  tiie  winter.  But  tiie  breeze 
becoming  westerly  at  nin^  p'clock,  all  hands  were  set  to  work,  and 
continued  occupied  tiie  whole  day  in  separating  tiie  masses  which 
had  been  cemented  by  tiie  frost,  since  tiiis  afforded  us  tiie  onlv 
t!S!^  ?K  «£*»««  cj^-  This  being  done,  we  placed  tiie  ship^s 
head  in  tiie  best  position  for  getting  out;  and,  affct  tiiis,  she  was 
soon  surrounded  by  new  ice,  tiie  tiiermometer  being  at  25". 

22d.  A  stivng  breeze  arose  during  tiie  night;  and,  at  dayliicht 
we  found  tiia^  with  the  exception  of  !wo  piecis,  it  had'  carri^^S 
aU  the  ice  that  we  had  fiut,  while  tiie  water  was  clear  outside.  We 
•gain,  tfierefore,  set  all  hands  to  work  in  breaking  tiie  ice  tiiat  re- 
mained, soon  detaching  many  large  pieces,  which  tiie  tide  carried" 
!rf?**  *K  I  ^°™»  *»owever,  became  more  heavy  as  we  proceeded; 
M  tiiat  the  last  cuts,  tiirough  a  thick  floe,  were  not  completed  till 
Uie  evening.  At  tiiis  time  a  large  mass  to  tiie  eastward  of  us  broke 
,  away,  promising  to  sail  pff  and  assist  in  clearing  us,  when,  unfor-- 
tunately.  It  toot  tiie  ground  and  remained  fixed;  and,  still  more 
to  clSi        J"**  opposite  to  tiie  channel  which  we  were  attemp^ng 

.rHat^  "^^  '^*'!  °¥«^  *°  "?^®  *  °«^  *««"»P*  at  anoAer  point; 
appealing  again  to  that  patience,  and  exerting  once  more  tiiat  deter- 
mination not  to  be  foiled,  which,  for  ey&r  wanted  under  every  sitaa- 
«r!i  S  *iSc?u"®^®''  more  needed  tifi  by  him  who  must  work  his 
way  throufli  the  never  ending,  ever  ^newed,  obstitictions  of  an  icy 
«e^  JJy  Uie  time  it  was  dark,  we  had  completely  succeeded,  and 
h^  once  more  tiie  satisfaction  of  finding  ourselves  in  clear  water; 
when  we  hove  out  beyond  tiie  icebergs,  and  made  fast  for  tiie  night 


ss-- 


TO  TBK  ABCTIC  BSOIOMS. 


95 


lined  when  the 
ent  in  dimiiush^ 
a^e  place  Ahiai 

night,  with  the 
of  ice  wasfieen 
passing  to  the 
a  few  hours,  to. 
Jt  been.    After/ 
on  on  shore  as 
ace  still  showed 
e  could  but  ob-  ' 
',  but  tiiere  was 
ere  frozen  over, 
at  midnight  it 
I,  as  w^  hoped 

ing  a  light  air 
lie  huge  masses 
!t  of  being  con- 
But  the  breeze 
t  to  work,  and 

masses  which 
d  us  the.  only 
ced  the  ship's 

this,  she  was 
at  25"*. 

I,  at  daylight, 
i  carried  away 

outside.  We 
le  ice  that  re- 
le  tide  carried" 
ve  proceed; 
completed  till, 
rd  of  us  broke 
,  when,  unfor-^*' 
id,  still  more 
ire  attempting 


to  that  floe  which  we  h'ad  cut  into  the  resemblance  of  a  pier.  Soon 
after  this  it  began  to  blow  hard  frOm  the  southward,  and  the  ice 
-which  had  passed  by  was  seen  returning;  producing,  once  more,  a 
new  enigma  \o  be  solved*  as  it  threatened  us  again  with  a  repetition 
of  what  we  liad  been  so  often  and  so  long  undergoing.  It  became 
necessary  therefore  to  go  on  snoi%,  that  we  might  the  better,  under^ 
stand  how  matters  were  likely  to  be  with  us  noW;  since  Our  posi- 
tion in  the  ship  was  not  su£Bcientiy  commanding  to  allow  of  an  ade- 
quate view.  We  thus  found  that  the  circumstances  were  even  worse 
than  yire  had.  anticipated;  since  we  could  nOt  even  get  i;ound  to  the 
good  harbour  which  we  had  occupied  -l^fore,  until  the  weather 
should  moderate.  There  was  also  seen  some  new  ice,  the  thermo-  -"i 
meter  being  at  22*',  and  thence  to  26".  By  the  time,  hpwever,  that  ; 
.we  had  returned  to  the  ship,  the  wind  fortunately  rose  from  the 
very  quarter  that  we  desired,  Jbeing  that  which  was  best  adapted  for 
carrying  away  the  ice;  while,  blowing  with  su£Scient  force  to  re- 
move it,  we  were  enabled  to  go  to  our  repose  under  some  hopes  foi* 
thte  following  day.     "  ^ 

23d.  These  hopes  were  quashed  by  the  appearance  of  the  morn- 
ing. It  had  snowed 'hand  since  midnight,  and  every  thing,  land, 
rocks,  ice,  our  deck, -was  deeply  covered;  while  our  intended  pas- 
sage outwards  was  blocked  up  by  large  pieces  of  floes  and  bergs; 
two  more  liaving  detached  themselves  from  the  land  to  aid  in  Se 
obstruction.  The  wind,  indeed;  had  it  been  more  moderate,  would 
have  been  sufficientiy  favourable:  and  thence  were  we  induced  to 
ren^  our  labours,  in  Spite  of  the  storm  and  every  other  discouraging 
;«ircuitistance.  So  successful  also' were  they,  that  the  passage  was 
tleared  by  eight  o'clock;  at  which  time  the  gale  began  to  abate,  and  «.. 
he  fall  of  snow  to  diminish,  so  as  to  hold  out  some  better  prospects 
^an  the  earl^  morning  had  promised. 

We  therefore  undertook  another  survey  from. the  shore,  when  we 
•und  that' die  north  entrance  of  the  harbour  was  still  blocked  up, 
»ut  that  there  was  much  clear  water  to  the  southward..  This 
induced  us  to  go  ofl"  in  the  whale  boat,  that  we  might  survey  the 
very  intricate  channel  before  us^,  leaving  it  to  those  on  board  to 
warp  the  ship  out  and  get  her  under  ^il  in  the  mean  time.  Thus 
we  investi^ted  the  pilotage;  and,  returning  at  ten  o'clock,  we 
succeeded  m  carrying  our  vessel  through,  without  any  accident,  in 
spite  of  a' rapid  tide  and  the  numerous  sunken  rocks  in  the  passage. 
The  whole  of  this  expedition,  successful,  if  of  little  extent,  waj^ 
terminated  in  an  hour. 

It  was  our  intention  tp  have  entered  the  harbour;  but,  on  standing  '    ■ 
towards  its  entrance.  We  thought  it  probable  that  we  might  reach  a 
few  miles  further,  the  current  being  still  in  our  favour,  though  the 
wind  was  agvnst  us.    We  continued,  therefore,  to  work  along  shore,  ^ 
and  having  passed  tiie  harboUr  at  noon,  reached  tiie  furthest  point   ■ 
that  we  had  seen  from  our  last  sUtion.    Hence,  the  land  tranded 


im- 


?   ) 


-    <-f 


I 


s 


\ 


\ 

I 

1 


.■  X 


_J! L_itl 


f:.  .  '  ,  ,■-., «  ■ 


96 


SECOND  V07AOJB  OV  DISCbVBRT 


*  nearly  due  south,  being  more  bdd  and  rocky,  and  also  more 
elevated  than  what  wfi  had  hitherto  seen:  and  here  also  we  dis- 
covered an  inlet  some  *«niles  to  the  south,' with  high  land  on  each 
side  of  it,  which,  on  a  nearer  approach,  proved  to  .be  full  oiF  ice. 
Near  it  there  was  some  low  land,  which  was  conjectured  to  be  an 
island^  and,  more  towards  the  south-east,  a  decided  one,  which  v9a» 
the  most  distant  land  we  had  yet  seen.  ^      ^  .     a 

At  four  o'clock,  being  opposite  the  bay,  we  were  obliged  to  force 
through  two  streams  of  ice,  and,  by  seven,  closed  in  with  the  island: 
when,  havieg  a  favourable  wind  and  Current,  we  attempted  to  wprk 
up  to  the  mainland.  The  coming  on'of  night  prevented  this;  and 
we  were  comjtelled  to  run  round  a  point  on  the  island,  where  we 
secured  ourselves  to  some  heavy  ice,  about  fifty  yards  froii4hej|iore, 
and  in 'four  fathoms  water..  It  was  far,  indeed,  from  bfe^gasaJFe 
place,  and,  in  an  easterly  wind,  would  have  Been  a  hazardous  one: 
but,  after  much  examination,  we  could  find  nothing,  better,  and 
were  obliged  to  be  content  The  snow  continued  the  whole  day, 
but  was  not  such.a'8  to  prevent  us  from  seeing  to  distances  .of  two  or 
three  miles:  the  temperature  of  the  air  rose  from  26°  to  32^,  but  the 
barometer  fell  half  an  incjh.  By  our  reckoning,  we  had  made  abofit 
fourteen  "miles:  an  unexpected  progress,  which  put  us*^  into  high 

•  spirits,  and  made  us  anxious  for  the  return  of  another  day. 

24th.  Though  the  weather, had  been  moderate  during  the  night, 
the  flood  tide  set  in  with  great  rapidity,  and  thie  iceberg  to  which  we 
were  fast  received  so  many  severe  blows  from  Ithe  floating  masses, 
that  we  began  to  suspect  it  would  itself  be  carried  off"  at  high  water. 
An  alarm  to  this  eflect  was  indped  given:  butjttt  examinktion,  we  . 
found  that  it  was  the  vessel  which  had  sheeAd;  on  which  she  was 
moored  to  the  rocks.    The  wihd,'Which  had  been  gradually  changing 
during  the  night,  became  sopth-east  at  daylTdit;  imd  v»^e  could  tiien 
see  from  the  island,  that  the  icp  was  fast  closing  on  us:  so  as  to  give 
us'timely  warning  to  quit  a  place  where' it  was  impossible  to  remain 
long  with  safety.    We  therefore  jnade^sail;  add,  passing  to  the  east- 
ward of  the  island,  found  a  channel  througlCwhich  the  tide  was 
running  with  ailnoderate  velocity.    We  then  sent  the  boats  to  te- 
amme  into^this  apparent  harbo^and  to  select  a  place  wl^i^We 
could  maW  fault:  but  it  was  soon  discovered  that  there  was  only  a 
reef  of  rocks,  so  that  we  were  obliged  to'  moor  to  a  large  iceberg, 
jjrithin  a  few  yards  of  the  shore,  and  not  far  from  a  shallow  entrant 
opening  to  the  south-east 

As  soon  as  the  men  had  breakfasted,  we  prepared  to  remove 
again,'  when  the  boat  should  have  found  a  better  position.  Sud- 
denly, however,  the  ice  turned  round;  and,  before  we  could  pre- 
vent it,  the  ship's  bow  was  carried  on  the  rocks  with  such  violence, 
thaj  It  WM  raised  eighteen  inches.  But  as,  a|  this  timd,  the  ice 
grounded  again,  no  further  Issault  was  inade  oiMier:  and  by  means 
of  bawsen,  she  was  soon  jjot  off,  without  haying^BuataiMd  my 


\ 


TO  THX  ABCTIC  ■■eiOWS. 


99 


damage.    The  breeze  then  liesheiuilg,  the  sails  were  set,  enabliiiK 
us  to  stahd  out^ththe  intention  of  lying  to  while  we  waited  the 
,  repdrt of  the  boat  '■.'■■"  *^'-^<'-^-':::.:--'-:h'-9ry"'    --  '.>■:■.  ,,  ..• 

But  our  success  was  very  small;  since  after  ninning  half  a  mile, 
wi^  gfeat  difficulty,  throufdi  rocks  and  icebergs,  the  situation 
whidi  we  attained,  and  did  vht  gain  without  much  toil  and  hazard, 
was  found  to  be  little  better  «lhan  that  which  we  had  left.  It  had 
bu^  ten  feet  water;  and  we  saw  that  we  should  not  be  ible  to  haul 
out  of  the  stream  before  the  shiphad  arrive^  within  her  own  braadth 
p[  some  rocks  that  row  above  the  water;  ^w^  her  Aem  lay  dose 
to  others  that  were  not  six  feet  heneath  the  surface.  We  therefore 
proceeded  in  the  whale  boat  to  seek  for  a  better  place,  for  which  the 
now  inereasing^  wmd  n^ade  us  more  wwdous;  and  thus  succeeded  in 
findiM  an  excellent  deep-water  channel  between  the  mainliuid  and 
tiw  first  range  of  islands.  The  entrance^  however,  seemed  eaitrtme- 
ly  hazardous;  being  scarcely  wider  than  the  ship  herself,  with  a 
tongue  of  ice,  haying  only  Mvenleet  water  on  it,  extendinc  aoitMM. 
from  suia  to  side.,  ^w!^ 

.There  was,  however^  neither  a  choice  to  make,  nor  time  to  ie 
i|lared  m  resolvmg.  We  therefore  dMpped  the  ship  down  bv 
hawsers,  grazmg  the  rocka  with  our  keeL  How  to  ^ory  hfer  ow 
^e  touBte  was  another  problem,  seeing  that  her  dnaiht  exceeded 
tto  depth;  but,  ?«^hileconsiderin«  this,  &  tide  swept  iSr  on  it,  and 
flhe  stuck &8t;  ithaving  proved,  contrary  to  our  rackoniniE,  that  it 
WW  now  ebb.  The  hawsers  were  then  ctaried  out  aninrand  we 
contrived  to  h^ve  through;  yet  not  withoutsawing off  wmeproiect- 
"*^'?.^-°'*  *^  *^°  opposite  icebergs,  so  narrow  was  the  paasum. 
;  We  did  not,  however,  extricate  ourselvee  from  this  penlousj^. 
^  toon.  Without  passmg.  two  other  icebergs,  one  higher  than  our  ihastr 
^^^f?**  ~t.?j  *****  the  vessel  had  only  half  her  breadth  to  spare. 
But,  this  achi^ement  over;  weiiad  no  .farther  difficulty  in  saUinc 
two  mites  through  the  chaniiel,  when  We  reached  a  place  of  .aecurity, 
and  made  ftat  to  two  large  icebens^  out  of  the  stream,  and  near  the 
entrance  of  a  good  harbour.  In  this  position  there  was  a  lann  island 
on  Mch  side,  and,  before  us,  the  inainhnd.  f    ^ 

ThM  maidand  was^  what  we  had  seen  the  day  befoi^  and  di». 
P"Ir  *  ?**5**^»e  of  mountains  close  to  the  coast,  extending  in  a 
north  a^soufc  dimstionrw^e  it  seemed  rtojonTa  more 
favourable  manner  than  formerly,  and  no  land  was  visible  beyond 
^SHJ^'^T^^  to  examine  and  sound: the  h^-bour^ 
wSjtogrther^iA  the  severM  entranqea  to  it:  but  these  latter  were 
1^  Wo^edvun,  mth  exc(q,^  of  the  one  tb  ^^^^ 

convenient;  and  we  therefore  remained  satisfied  wSh  the  result  «f 
our  day's  w*^,  and  not  thanklew  for  our  escapesXo3i  2 
haaidous  a  nayigaUon.  There  w«,  a  little  snow,Md  n6  bSiS 
was  ««r  tl»e^4il4:WMer  bo^^  «n  «rf  l»*.wW,  i.?5»e  e^ 


-11 


-1/ 

,    f 


*  ,. 


-i»»«r.a*'»'  > 


\*' 


98 


SBOOirO  VOTAOB  OV  DIfCOVXKT 


ing  coining  from  the  north-'Oast  We  were  here  obliged  to  fill  our 
casks  with  ice,  as  there  was  no  fresh  water  to  be  procured.  The 
land  near  us  consisted,  as  usual,  of  granite. 

25/A*  The  wind  canie  to  the  norSiward  during  the  nig^t,  causing 
such  a  rise  of  the  tide^that  all  the  icebergs  were  set  in  motion.  In 
consequence,  they  were  shbrtly  all  carried  off,  except  one  which  was 
kept  in  its  place  by  our  ropes.  In  thd  morning  it  was  clear,  and  we 
saw  from  the  mast-head  a  good  deal  of  open  water  to  the  southward, 
forming  the  receptacle  of  the  ice  vrhichyraa  sailing  out  of  this  nar- 
row chumel.  Thus  we  at  first  thoughfUiat  it  would  clear  itself,  so 
that  we  might  perhaps  proceed  by  noon:  but  the  unlucky  arrival 
of  a  largd  pack  of  ice  at  the  northern  entrance,  not  only  filled  it  up 
once  more,  but  produced  a  general  stoppage,  which  compelled  us  to 
lemoye  the  ship  fiirther  wimin  the  harbour. 

In  the  afiifemoon  we  landed  and  took  formal  possession  of  the 
island  to  which  we  were  now  moored,  giving  it  the  name  of  Andrew 
Ross,  being  that  of  m;^  son^  From  the  caum  .which  we  buUt,  we" 
obtained  a  very  extensive  view,  and  saw  land  bearing  south  of  us  at 
a  distance  of  eighteen  or  twenty  miles;  yet  'not  so  as  to  ascertain 
whether  it  con^sisted  6f  islands,^  or  was  a  continuation  of  the  land 
near  us,  and  the  American  continent  Much  clear  water' was  abo 
seen  in  the  same  direction;  giving  some  prospect  of  a  further  pro- 
gress, in  case  the  wind  shouKI  come  to  the  northward,  and  enable 
us  to  clear  the  channel  by  which  we  were  imprisoned.  A  sketdi 
being  taken,  the  islands  were  named. 

The  last  night's  gale  had  so  blown  away  the  snow,  lodging  it  in 
the  ravines  and  hoUoMrs,  that  the  land  seemed  comparatively  dear, 
and  the  island  on  which  we  stood  was  so  bare  as  to  show  its  clean 
'granite,  without  a  mark  of  vegetatiiMi.  A  alight  foggines9  in  the 
direction  of  the  newly-oeeff  islands  continued  to  render  the  view  of 
them  indistinct;  and,  in  the  evening,  the  weather  was  quite  mode- 
rate, with  a  temperature  of  24°,  though  witiiout  the  formation  of 
any  jiew  ice.  The  harbour  having  ^ieen  at  length  quite  survejKed, 
was  found*  to  have  fifteen  feet  at  low  water,  with  an  even  mud^ 
bottom,  to  be  fi«e  of  currents,  except  in  the  main  channel,  and  se- 
cure front  every  wind.  Where  the  current  did  run,  it  was,  indeed, 
very  powerful;  canning  the  ice  through  it  with  fearful  velocity 
and  tremendous  collision.  Except  a  glaucous  gull,  we  hcare  saw  no 
animal.  . 

26th.  Though  calm  and  clear  after  midnight,  and  the  thei:mom«ter 
not  more  than  S7°,  no  qew  ice  was  formed  in  the  still  water,  and 
the  tide  carried  away  the  greater  part  of  that  which  had  occupied 
the  channel^  But,  at  nine  it  began  to  come  in  at  the  northeriy 
opening;  which,  with  a  northeasterly  breeze  and  a  heavy  fall  of 
snow,  put  an  end  to  all  prospect  of  i^vancing  for  this  day.  Soon 
after  dark,^the  temperature  fell  to  35^,  and  ue  snow  continued  to 
iall;  but,  under  the  influence  of  the  tides,  Vae  ice  began  to  clear 


if 


i^i^^-^'^t^-% 


TO  THX  AHCTIC  M6I0NS.  99 

away  in  b^  cUreetioM.  An  iidereaiJC^  of  wind  forced  us  to  carry 
out  additilc^Haliiropes,  and  the  Krusehstem  was  also  moored  in  a  place 
ofsecuritil  ^ 

S7/A^  tfnrinii  the  night  it  blew  a  very  hard  gale  from  the  north- 
wurd;  Md  thevtide  rising  high  in  conseduence,  all  the  icehergs  wefe 
set  in  motionr  Our  stroncMt  hawser  wipped  o^  the  rock' to  which 
it  was  ^utened,  and  obliged  us  to  let  go  in  anchor,  as  it  was  dark: 
but'wh^  daji'lidit  came,  we  transferred  t^e  former  to  another  rock, 
and  gptjthe" anchor  up  again.  It  was  th^  heen  that  the  channel 
was  clpsed  with  ice  at  Irath  ends;  and  thu^jt  continued  the  whole 
day,  thou^  havins  soine  clear  water  in  th^:  middle,  at  its  widest 
part  A  good  deu  of  heavy  ice  came  to  the  entrance  of  this  little 
harbanr,  but  did  not  reach  our  owi^  clear  wat^^on  which,  no  new 
ice  was  formed,  in  consequence,  probably,  of  the  gale. 
^  After  muster  and  prayers,  part  of  the  crew  waa^ien^  oq  shore  for 
exercise,  and  the  remainder  jn  the  evening.  Beioij^  with  this  last 
parfy,  we  saw  that  in  spite  of  some  open  sea,  tiiere  ^pbs  no  chance 
of  our  being  released  from  our  present  situation  wilSibicill^  a  change  of 
wind.  We  had  time  to  walk  over  thi^  islahd,  which  i^fhe  largest 
of  the  group,  but  found  no  vesetation,  nor  any  animal  j^^oug^,  on 
the  following  morning»  we  killed  a  seal  and  a  glaucous  giill.  The 
temperature  of  the  air  and  water,  equally,  was  29*,  and  it  eame  on 
to  blow  hard  fr|»m  the  north-west  soon  after  we  got  oa  boArd. 

98th.  Thou^  the  wind  veered  to  the  west  durinx  the  niriit,  it 
did  not  release  us  as  we  had  hoped.  The  ice,  indeed  had  drmed  a 
considerable  Way  o£f  the  coast,  but  our  channel  -was  atill  locked  up. 
Besides  this,  there  was  much  heai^  ice  driving  up  and  down,  with 
jp«at  velocity,  before  the  tide,*which,  even  could  we  have  got  out. 
It  would  not  have  been  prudent  to  encounter.  Some  of  theqe  masses, 
indeed,  entered  the  channel,  sweeping  it  clear  from  mde  to  side  for  a 
time,  as  some  of  them  blocked  up  the  .entrance  of  our  harbour.  A 
&rvey  by  the  boat,  however,  showed  at  last,  tij^at  we  might  get  out 
at  the  southern  entrance,  if  we  could  releascf  ourselves  from  the* 
prisoJn  that  now  enclosed  us. 

Thouji^  it  was  moderate  all  day,  the  baromiMer  fell  an  inch,  prog- 
nosticating what  soon  occurred.  Accordingly,  we  were  visited  by 
a  very  heavy  gale,  in  the  evening,  from  the  qorth-north-West,  witii 
a  snow  storm,  which  obliged  us  t6  carry  a  cable  to  the  rocks,  and 
another  to  the  next  iceberg,  for  ihe  sake  of  keeping  it  between  us 
and  the  shore,  in  case  any  shift  of  wind  should  drive  us  on  the  rocks 
from  which  we  were  not  many  yards  oC  The  thermometer  was  at 
one  time  SS",  and  rose  to  «8«».  We  examined  tiie  island  to  the 
•outh  of  us  to-day,  but  found  nothing  on  it  to  attract  our  attention. 

S9M.  The  snow  storm  continued  without  intermission  all  night- 
but,  in  the  morning,  it  had  so  &r  cleared  away  the  ice  as  to  render 
the  passage  navigable.  The  state  of  the  weatiier  would  not,  how- 
ever, permit  ua  to  get  under  way,  since  no  canvass  could  ha»e  stood 


-  »l 


)l 


1^- 


fk,Z"  ^•'' 


n- 


l<» 


SECOND  VOTAOE  OF  PISCOTSR-T 


rr-'v 


agaiMt  the  gale.  Towards  noon,  and  in  the  evening,  the  wind  wai 
■k  "?  J  ■»  """^  ***®  *"°w  ceased  to  fall;  when  such  was  the  effect  on 
the  land,  as  to  blow  away  the  pnow  by  which  it  had  been  previously 
covered.  The  thermometer  was  at  23<»  in  the  middle  of  the  storm, 
and  did  not  sink  below  81":  while,  in  the  evening,  the  barometer  be- 
**5  *?i  '"**  ^^  ^^  time  the  entrance  of  the  harbour  was  cleared, 
■nd  all  the  «iew  ice  and  frozen  snow  were  dispersed.  After  the  tide 
had  naen,  it  continued  the  whole  day  at  nearly  the  same  elevation, 
markinji  tlwt  effect  of  the  winds  which  we  had  moi«  than  once  be- 
fore nbticed.  The  latitude  was  observed  at  TO"  12',  and  the  longi- 
tude, uncorrected,  at  92'*  21'.  No  one  could  leave  the  ship  durinjt 
the  whole  of  this  day.  *^  » 

SO/A.  The  storm  abated  gradually  during  the  night;  and  at  five, 
bemg  daylight,  it  seemed  sufficiently  moderate  to  warrant  an  attempt> 
>  to  get  out:  the  channel  to  the  southward  being  nearly  clear  of  ice. 
Accordingly,  the  cables  and  hawsers  wefig^^  off;  and  at  inx  we  got 
under  way,  with  the  Krusenstern  in  tow.  Though  the  tide  in  the 
channel  was  setting  north,  or  against  us,  the  northerly  ln«eze  with 
us  was  sufficient  to  make  us  run  through  it  at  the  rate  ofl  five  miles 
an  hour;  estimating  thejAirrbnt  at  tiie  same  time,  at  half  that  quan- 
tity. At  seytenw&ifmsaed  the  southern  eniranc&oftiie harbour  and 
the  south'^  opening  of  the  channel;  finding  thfe  tide  stronger,  as 
we  advanx^ed,  and  most  rapid  in  the  narrowest  part,  as  mifdit  have 
beenexp^bt^  V,  jv 

f  It  was  now'liQqessary  to  know  more  of  what  was  likely  to  follow, 
smce  we  had  arrivi^  at  the  boundary  of  our  present  knowledge;  and 
we  were,  therefore,^  gresyt  anxiety  to  discover  the  treading  of  the 
iMd;  watching  the  ^sternmost  cape,  and  every  successive  point 
that  opened  as  we  advanced.  We  found  that  the^distant  land  which 
we  had  seen  between  th^jround  island  and  the  main,  was  a  cluster  of 
Vge  island^,  and  that  tiie>oast  was  trending  to  the  westward.  At 
eight  we  had  rounded  thd^cape,  successively  opening  out  sevc^i 
points,  of  which  the  fifth  mdrked  the  place  of  a  large  inlet  or  bay, 
which,  on  our  approach,  we  fdund  to  be  full  of  ice.  A  bay  beyond 
the  second  point.seemed  also  to  offer  a  good  harbour:  while  we  fui^- 
ther'noticed  a  remarkable  inlet,  with  what  appeared  to  be  two  islands 
at  its  entrance.    The^e  Kveral  places  were  naihed. 

Our  distance  gradually  increased,  in  running  down  the  coast,  fr&i 
a  hundred  yards  to  two  miles;  -and,  at  noon,  the  great  body  of  ice 
■Was  seen  extending  frqm  the  shore  about  two  miles  north  of  the  ex- 
treme i^oint  of  the  mainland,  to  ^islands  sout)iwaid:  thus  com-  , 
pletely  obstructing  all  further  pa^^ge,  since  it  cohsitted  of  very  ^ 
heavy  roaases  most  desdy  packed.  ;^e  had  run  seventeen  miles; 
five  to  the  south  and  twelve  to  the  sob^-west:  and  we  now,  there- 
fore, tacked  and  beat  up  to'tiie  land  in  seu^h  of  a  harbour,  detach- 
ing a  boat  as  we  approached,  to  sound  and  seek  for  a  safe  position: 


4^ 


.?fC 


-"■"Vw- 


«BB?S5!3ps 


TO  THJI^KCTIC  RBOIOHS. 


101 


while,  in  the  mean  time,  vfe  made  fast  to  a  neigkbouring  iceberg  but 
in  a  situation  that  eould  not  belrusted,  from  the  small  depth  of  wateir 
The  boat  discovered,  to  the  nbrth-eastward  of  our  place,  a  spacious 
bay,  but  open  on  three  points  of  the  compass;  and,  to  the  south-west, 
an  island  which  offered  a  place  of  security,  having  a  rock  above  wfh 
terto  thesouth,  with  a  shallow  ridge  near  the  northern  entrance. 
Thif  position  we  therefore  took;  making  £ut  to  two  icebergs,  uid\ 
under  protection  of  the  islet,  so  as  to  be  not  more  than  a  quarter  of  a 
mile  distant  from  the  l]^rne'r  of  hieavy  ice,  which  we  could  now  bet- 
ter see  to  consist  of  hundreds  of  icebergs  wedged  together  into  a  solid 
mass.  We  had  passed,  in  our  course  hither,  some  large  pieces  which 
were  sailing  to  join  this  threatening  barrier,  an<)  had  a£o  been  obliged 
to  force  our  way  through  some  pancake  ice,  as  it  is  termed,  so  dense 
as  to  give  us  considerable  trouble.  '  __J>    .IlZ^;-—— ■-—-—- 

^  The  l^amometer  wasirom  dS^  to  S5®  in~tKe  di^^^t  in  the  even* 
iilg  it  became  calm,  when  the  temperature  suddenly  feH  to  18°.  At 
sunset,  the  weather  was  very  clear,  and  high  land  was  seen  beyond 
the  point,  at  the  distwce  i>f  ten  or  eleven  leagues,  bearing  south-  ' 
west,  and  extending  to  the  eastward  of  south ;  but,  whether  connected 
with  the  land  near  us^  or  not,  we  could  not  discover.  The  large  is- 
luids  bore  fjroj^iftot-by-aouthto  8outh-south-east,,at  about  niite  miles 

distance,  and  )^|^  surrounded  by  heavy  ice,  separated  from  them,  in 
one  plMe,  by  a  small  lin6  of  water. 

Theaaptet  of  flie  land  had  now.considerably  changed.  It  was  far 
lower  than  those  parts  of  the  coast  which  ^e  had  already  examined, 
^nd  Um  general  siirface  was  much  more  even.  There  was  some  ve- 
getation on  the  little  island,  and  we  observed  recent  tracks  of  the 
hwe  and  the  ermmeA.  Here  also  were  two  circles  of  stones,  being  '^ 
the  remain^  ef^Ue  summer  habitations  of  the  Esquimaux,  but  of  a 
much  more  recent  date  than  those  we  had  seen  before.  Though  there 
was  snow,  the  ereater  part  had  been  blown  in^  the  ravines  and  lee  . 
places,  which  allowed  us  to  see  that  the  rock^  consisted  of  red  gra- 
nite. One  track  of  a  bear  was  afterwards  found  near  the  place  where 
we  were  mooitd,  and  many  seals  lalso  made  their  appearance.    As 

Jo  observations  were  taken,  we  were  obliged  to  estimate  the  latitude, 
^w' "^^'»°»°& •*  "^^"i *n<*  the  longitude  (uncorrected) "at  92*»  *)'.  " 

With  the  termination  of  September,  of  which  we  had  now  reached 
thfe  last  day,  I  considered  that  aU  hope  of  making  any  further  pro-'  * 
gWMs  this  season  was  at  an  end.  And  thus  I  entered  that  opinion  in 
my  journal;  adding  to  it  those  remarks  which  I  now  transcribe  with- 
out alteration,  because  they  better  show  the  impressions  and  opinions 
eonsequent  on  our  proceedings  and  situation,  than  aught  that  I  misht 

aM^iff*  ■'  •  ^^'^  period,  or  should  write  now. 
-#•*  VH  conviction  is,  that  in  every  voyage  of  this  nature,  the 
Miety  of  the  ship  ought  to  be  that  prime  consideration  to  which  every 
tmng  else  should  yield;  since,  upon  its  preservation,  the  chance  of 
■uccess  depends  m  a  greater  degree  than  in  any  other  navigation; 


vT.. 


-""■^"-J"—-**! 


1»5;">««I»*5,^ 


■  1|  *»»--«M(f. 


Wn.,  Ji.**.'**^,* 


-*! 


7 


•.'^ 


109 


BK<ljflltt  VOTAOB  or  DHOOVKBT 


though,  in  every  case,  the  same  proposition  is,  to  •  eertsin  extent, 
tojue.  And,  on  a  calm  review  oC  what  is  just  past,  I  have'reason  to 
blaine  myself  for  not  having  actei  up  to  this  principle  with  sufficient 
steadiness.  A  not  unnatural  aiixiety  to  proceed  has  often  induced 
me  to  push  forward  as  soon  as  therU  appeared  any  probability  of 
creeping  along  shore:  yet  I  have  been  comparatively  justified  in 
doinff,  in  a  small  ship,  what  would  have  been  infinitely  more  imimi- 
dent  m  « large  one;  as  it  is  parUy  for  the  sake  of  tiiose  who  may 
hereafter  renew  tiiese  attempts  in  larger  vessels  that  I  make  this  re- 
mark. 


threatening  to  draw  the  boundary  which  we  were  not  to  pass.  It  is 
how  plain,  (and  let  future  navigators  in  these  seas  profit  by  the  re- 
mark,) that  had  I  patientlv  waited,  in  numerous  instances,  until  sure 
of  r^hihg  a  place  of  refiige,  we  should  have  attained  our  present 
position  far  sqpner  than  we  have  done,  and  with  far  less  of  toil  and 
anxiety  and  hazard.  But  it  if  nevertheless  plain,  from  the  state  of 
the  ice,  that  although  we  hari  reached  this  poii^much  earlier  in  the 
season,  we  could  scarcely  have  succeeded  in  making  any  important 

}>rogress  further  before  the  winter.  As  far  a»  our  operations  for  the 
ollowing  season  Jire  concerned,  we  are  probably  in  as  good  a  position 
fpr  deciding,  here,  as  we  could  haye  been,  thouf^  more  advanced: 
being  also,  while  three  hundred  miles  further  than  any  preceding 
expedition,  not  more  than  two  hundred  and  eighty  miles  from  the 
coast  laid  down  by  Captain  Franklin.  , 

«  On  the  mode  of  ncvigating  in  these  seas,  I  may  here  also  de- 
dwe  my  now  acquired-conviction,  that  where  there  is  no  harbbur, 
and  the  ice  is  settog  along  tiie  shore,  there  ought  tob^  no  hesitation 
in  teking  a  position  in  the  pack,  especially  when  a  ship  is  near  tiie 
land.    It  is,  in  reality,  tiie  most  secure  proceeding;  and  altiiough 
toe  consequence  tbay  often  be  a  retawgrade  movement,  that  is  not  to 
be  put  into  competition  with  the  safe^  of  the  ship;  while  we  never 
experienced  any  diilculty  in  extiicating  ourselves  sooner  or  later. 
I  am  earnMt  in  enforeing  this  doctrine  on  navigators,  because  the  re- 
verse opmion  is  rooted;  as  the  consequence  of  the  opposite  practice 
IS,  to  keep  a  vessel  in  a  constant  sUte  of  actual,  as  weU  as  appre- 
hemted  danger,  or  anxiety.    And  tiiis  is,  in  fact,  tiie  source  of  all 
the  dai^irs  and  narrow  eseapat  of  which  we  read;  while  a  littie 
care  and  patience  would  gsneraUy  avoid  that  fiwquent  casualty,  the 
being  beset  in  tiie  ice.    A  little  reflection  should  indeed  show,  tiiat 
It  ifi  not  witiiin  the  )>ower  of  a  ship  to  force  herself  tiirough  such  ob- 
fltroctions:  and  tiience  do  I  recur  to  the  conclusion,  that  ^  is  impru- 
dent, as  well  as  idle,  to  be  perpetually  pushing  on  t6  reach  every 
iract  of  open  water,  unless  it  can  be  done  witiiout  nA^  and  unless 


•v 

>. 

'.*-'. 

\ 

■       'W^ 

/ 

f 

..*              ';"C- 

,,.- 

1 

/     ■»     ■ 

.^31:^            . 

L 

■       --'J         '■ 

' 

/    ^M 

kMw<*t»t,^ 


.■*-^*»K..,'. 


•''>•» 


V,V 


'tI'' 


TO  TU  JUICTIC  XBOIONS. 


103 


alao  there  be  a  prospect  of  retaining  the  ground  that  has  been  nined. 
or  of  maJting  a  determinate  progress.      ,  ^ 

"  It  is  indeed  true,  as  it  may  be  answered  to  these  remarks,  that  it 
18  the  business  of  a  ship  to  seek  for  a  harbour,  especially  after  a  lone 
Ojn,  and  on  an  unknown  coast  Bdt  it  is  generally  easy  to  send 
pits  on  this  duty,  with  little  or  n^  comparative  hazard,  when  there 
are  prospects  of  refuge  on  shore:  «rhile,  instead  of  thus  endangerinK 
the  ship,  It  is,  as  I  have  alread/ recommended,  the  safest,  and  in- 
deed the  only  prudent  practice/ to  take  to  the  ice.  This  is,  if  I  mis- 
take not,  the  refuge  furnished  by  Providence;  and  he  who  negleets 
It,  sUlI  trusting  to  Providence  to  escape  the  dangers  which  he  unne^ 
cessanly  incurs,  ihust  not  complain  m  case  of  faUuie;  since  he  has 
not  exerted  his  utnnwt  canrand  pni^ce  to  render  himself  entitled 
to  that  protection.  I^t  that  he  ke^t  in'aifnd  by  him  at  least  who 
inay  hereafter  attempt  a  '  north-west  n4uMage:'  and  let  him  never 
lote  sight  of  the  two  words,  caution,  aiid  patience." 


^: 


jft 


m 


■f,'-' 
''i^ 


"ittr^^ 


-•  jfi 


«&  n..,-Ai*l/-..-         »-f; 


''  ' 

i 

■4 

^ 

■ 

_                                       ^  • 

•■ 

^> 

4t— ? 


^J 


m 


t0: 


If 

it 


i\ 


fi 


[i 


104 


9KC0irD  VOTAOB  OF  DiaCOVXBT 


A 


..i 


CHAPTER  XII. 


•^ 


N.-'f 


■■:  % 


Remarks  on  the  present  Condition  ttf  the  Ship,  and  Prmar^ti<in9 
to  reduce  the  incumbrance  of  the  Engine-^Uhrig^ngqf  the 
Ship-—<A^tiiees^ul  Bear  Hunt— Ascertain  that  wejtte  truly 
frogen  in  for  the  Winter--~Ji  Powder  Magazine  e^ifteted  on 
shoh-^ProvisUMs  eseatnined—'neOuns:  and  parti  ^jtheSn- . 
gine^hoisted  out.  •,  -    ^ '    «• 

BsFORB  proceeding  with  the  journal  of  the  folhming  month,  I 
must  offer  some  remarks  on;the  actual  concGltion  of  our  ship,  espe- 
cially as  regards  the  engine.  The  record  of  the  last  weisks  has  id- 
ready  tjifpym  that  we  laA  ceased  to  consider  her  taught  more  than 
A  sailing  veAel:  and  it  is  also  true,  that  whatever  advantage  we  had 
latterly  derived  from  our  machinery,  it  was  not  greater  -than  we 
mi^ht  have  obtained  from  our  two  boats,  by  towmg.  But,  thus  ren- 
denng  us  no  service,  the  engitvs  was  not  merely  useless:  it  was  a 
serious  incumbrance:  since  it  ocdupied^  with  its  fuel,  tw6-third8  of 
our  tonnage,  in  wei^t  and  measurement  It  had  been^  from  the 
beginning,  a  very  heavy  grievance  in  another  way,  and  in  addition 
'to  the  endless  troubles  and  vexations  which  I  have  already  record- 
ed: since  it  demanded  and  employed  the  services  of  four  persons, 
who  were  necessarily  landsmen,  not  sailors:  thus  cramping,  very 
seriously,  the  number  pf  our  red,  or  nautical,  crew.    As  the  en- 

S*n^  moreover,  had  h6en  considered  the  essential  moving  poWer  in 
e  original  arrangement  of  the  vessd,  tiie  masting  and  sluling  had 
been  ireduced  accordingly,  since  it  was  presumed  that  the  sails 
wtMild  only  be  required  in  stormy  weather;  so  that,  in  fact,  she 
was  almost  a  jury  rigged  ship.  To  add  to  tdl  these  disadvant 
she  had,  under  this  imperfect  power,  the  heavy  duty  of  towmg  a 
boat  of  ei|^teen  tons,  a  dimension  eqaalling  one-fourth  of  her  cWn: 
tli^e  whole  comprising  a  mass  of  obstruction  and  incumbrance  which 
we  certainly  as  littie  expectdd  as  we  had  foreseen  when  we  quir  ' 
Endand.  >       ^ 

^  u  with  all  this,  we  had  not  less  reason  to  be  thankful  for  the  pij 
gf^  we  had  made,  than  really  to  wonder  at  our  success  thus  fii 
Uiese  were  Jiot  things  to  make  us  riiut  our  eves  to  what  it  seeme^j 
now  most  needful  to  do.    In  future,  our  ship  was  to  be  a  sailing 


7 


-«— •«»i-i'*i*«Wii 


*» 


V 


\ 


Iwejttetrufy 
ne  Btftetied  on 
HiqtjtheSn-. 

'    ".     '■'■■■*■•  ;  • 

ring  month,  t 
>ur  ship,  espe- 
weeks  has  si- 
ght more  than 
sntage  wehad 
eater  than  we 
But,  dius  ren- 
elest:  it  was  a 
,  tw6-thirds  of 
een^  from  the 
nd  in  addition 
[ready  record- 
four  persons, 
ramping,  very 
As  the  en- 
ding power  in 
nd  sluling  had 
that  the  sails 
^  in  fact,  she 
disadvant 
y  of  ton 
h  of  her 
ibrance  wll 
en  we  qui 


il  for  the  pn 
cess  thus  fiik, 
hat  it  seemec 
0  be  a  sailini 


TO  THE  ABCTIC  RBjOIONS.  ' 


.  vessel,  and  nothing  more.  I  therefore  detennined  to  lighten  her  of 
the  most  ponderous  and  least  expensive,  part  of  this  machinery,  wd 
to  apply,  towards  Strengthening  the  ship,  whatever  might  seem 
available  for  that  pilrpose.  With  this  view^  airrangements  were 
made  on  the  la^t  day  of  September,  for  taking  to  pieces  the  boilers^ 
that  we  might  land  tbem  as  soon  as  the  ship  should  be  frozen  in; 
an  event  that  could  not  be  distant;  while,  to  this,  I  had  more  thaii 
the  concurrence  of  every  oflScer,  and,  probably,  that  of  every  man. 
It  is  true  that  we  thus  consented  to  mluce  ourselves  to  a  degree  of 
power  far  inferior  to  that  of  any  preceding  vessel  engaged  in  these 
services;  but,  in  reality,  that  evil  had  already  occurred  against  our 
wiU^and  our  voluntary  act  of  self-condemnation  was,  a£ter  all,  little 
more  than  a  Ibrm.    ■-—- — '^ — ___„_ 

Oct  1st.  During  the  last  night,  the  thermometer  fell  to  17*», 
Uireatening  us  with  having  reached  our  last  posititm  for  this  season; 
but,  towards  daylight,  the  weather  became  cloudy,  and  the  tempera- 
ture rose  to  21",  with  a  fall  of  snow,  which  continued  the  whole  day. 
We  were  thus,  hovrever,  prevented  from  ascending  the  high  land 
n^  us,  and,  thence,  from  making  those  observations  on  the  state  of 
the  const  and  the  ice,  which  were  indispensable  towards  any  further 
attempt  at  proceeding.  We  could  do  nothing  more  therefore  than 
sound  and  survey  our  little  harbour:  and  were  pleased  to  find  that 
if  we  8j)^ld  really  he  frozen  up  in  this  spot,  we  should  -find  it  a  safe 
place,  after  making  some  alterations  in  it,  by  clearing  away  the  heavy 
masses,  and  sawing  into  the  bay  ice,  which  was  now  six  inches  thick. 
The  snow  ceased  at  night  A  very  recent  foxtrap  was  found  on 
the  shore:  and  as  the  «eals  were  very  shy,  while  numerous,  it 
was  a  natural  conclusion  that  the  Esquimaux  had  not  lone  quitted 
this  place.  .    **  ^ 

2d.  Thoueh  the  morning  was  cloudy,  it  was  not  to  unfavourable 
day  for  an  mland  excui|jon.  We  landed  on  the  north  side  of  the 
harbour,  «&  the  ice  was  not  sueh^as  to  enable  ns  to  cross  it  to  the 
southern  one,  which  was,  to  us,  the  important  poitot  After  passine 
a  vaUey  containing  a  frozen  lake,  I  ascended  a  high  hUl,  and  thence  ■ 
discovered  that  a  creek  which  had  caused  us  tb  make  a  circuit,  was 
an  inlet  running  about  six  miles  within  the  land,  in  a  north-west  di 
rection.  Here  I  also  saw  the  head  of  the  great  inlet  which  we  had 
observed  on  the  thirteenth,*  surrounded  by  land  appearinir  consi- 
derably higher  than  that  to  thesout^West,  which  consisted  of  a  sue 
cession  of  uniform  low  hills.  Beyond  this  land  I  could  see  no  water. 
To  the  south-east,  there  wasa  perfj^trjewof  the  islands  that  we  had 
passwl  on  the  thirtieth  of  Septembeis  together  with  some  land  to  the 

^^'^      u  T^'^'!^'  "^^t  ^as  ProbaWy  the  American  conti- 
nent; though  this  point  could  not  then  be  determined,  any  mora 
ttian  I  could  ascertam  whether  it  was  a  continuation  of  that  on  which 
I  was  now  standing. 
At  present,  it  was  more  important  to  know  what  the  sUte  of  the 

14  %:  V-; 


7 


me  r-m  I  '..m^ 


■V 


p. 


m 
i 


\ 


U» 


SKOOMD  VOTAttS  OV  OmOOTBBT 


ice  was,  and  what  it  was  likely  0  be;  but  what  we  saw  save  ut  no 
hopes  of  any  further  progress.  We  were  at  a  stand.  We  had  iodeei  ~ 
long  suqieoted  that  the  event  which  could  not  be  Very  distant,  wa 
impending,  nor  could  we,  in  reason,  be  surprised  that  it  had  arrivec 
Yet  we  had  been  Ikisy  and  active  up  to  the  present  point,  and  our 
perpetuaTeflfdrts  had,  as  is  usual  in  life,  prevented  us  from  thinking" 
of  the  future,  from  seeing  that  the  evil  which  could  not  for  ever  be 
protracted,  was  drawing  nearer  every  hour,  that  it  was  coming  every 
mimite,  duut  it  was  ccmiet  thus  nouririiine  that  blind  hope,  which 
even  in  the  face  of  inevitable  danger  or  of  certain  ruin,  even  on  the 
bed  of  death  itsdf,  is  the  result  of  effort  and  resistance;  that  hopA 
which  ceases' only  with  the  exertions  by  which  it  was  supported, 
when  the  helpless  ship  falls  asunder  on  the  rock,  and  the  sun  fades 
before  the  eyes  of  the  dying  man, 

•  It  was  sow  that  we  were  compelled  to  think,  for  it  was  now  that 
^iaen  %as  nothing  more  to  be  performed;  as  it  was  now  tiao  that 
the  long  and  dmry  months,  the  long-coming  year  I  mij^t  almost 
say,  of  our  inevitable  detention  among  this  immoveable  ice  rose 
fttU  in  our  view.  The  prison  dew  ^as  shut  upon  us  for  the  first 
tim^;  while  feeling  that,  if  we  were  helpless  as  hopeless  captives, 
tluM^not  even  Nature  could  now  relieve  or  aid  u^  for  many  »  long 
and  weary  month  to  eome,  it  was  imposnble  to  repel  the  intninon 
of  those  thoughts  which,  if  they  follow  disappointment,  preaa  on  us 
ever  more  heavi^,  under  that  subsidence  of  foeling  which  follows 
on  tim  first  dicek  to  that  exertion  by  which  hope  was  supported. 
Should  w6  have  dnie  better,  been  nirther  advanced,  have  passed 
UutHigh  these  diffioulties,  and  more,  should  we  have  passed  aU,  and 
found  ourselves  where  we  wished,  forming  a  junction  with  the  dis- 
coveries to  the  westward,  had  the  eniane  not  disappointed  us,  had 
we  be«a  here,  as  we  ought  to  have  been,  *  month  w  six  wedu 
sooner?  Was  it  the  badness  of  our  vessel,  a  complication  of  defects 
not  to  hava  been  foresee^,  which  had  jNrevented  us  from  completing 
^eoutiine  of  America,  frcgn  ascertaining  the  ^  north-west  pasaa^r' 
in  a  single  season?  This  was  the  thoudit  that  tormented  us;  and 
net  unnaturally,  when  we  recollected  ul  that  we  had  endured,  all. 
our  Mays  and  disappointments.  But,  like  that  self>tormenting 
itader  whieh  mankind  make  themselves  so  often  frvitleaaly  miserable, 
thoM  thoikf^ts,wei«  purposeless,  and  worse;  ao  that  we  hastened  to 
diaeard  them  as  they^irose:  aware,  on  reflection,  that  we  eould  not 
see  into  the  distant  and  the  future,  that  we  could  not  speculate  on 
the  nature  of  the  Und  before  us,  eould  not  be  sure  what  the  iee  had 
been  before  our  arrival,  and  could,  therefore,  as  little  know,  whether 
there  waa  a  pasas|^  westward  to  be  found  in  this  dire^ion,  as  whether 
we  riiould  have  bean  one  foot  further  advanced,  had  every  tiling  we 
desired  eenformed  to  our  wishesi 

We  saw  here  many  tracks  of  hares,  and  shot  aome  which  were, 
even  at  thia  early  period,  quite  white:  this  needfol  change  taking 

■  .  t    '■    -        .  .  .    ■                                        *                  ."^ 
l\-         . 


.7X 


TO  Vm  AMTW  ■BtflOlfl. 


107 


pUiu^  should  now  be  well  known  to  naturalists^  long  before  thi 
grotmd  has  become  permanently  covered  with  snoijf  ,  and  long  befine 
the  weather  has  become  truly  cold;  proving  that  it  is,  at  least,  not 
&Hf  ^fect  of  temperature,  as  it  is  assuredly  a  prospective  arrange- 
ment for  meeting  the  cold  of  winter.  The  track  or  a  bear  was  uao 
found;  and,  in  the  interior,  we  could  see,  even  through  the  snoW, 
that  the  (dains  were  covered  with  vegetation;  while  the  protruding 
rocks  consisted  of  red  granite,;  accomi)anied  by  fragments  of  lime- 
stone near  the  shore;  indicating  a  continuity  of  the  same  geological 
structure  that  wt  !aad  traced  eve^  since  entering  this  strait  There 
were  many  Enuimaox  traps,  with  a  great  numba*  of  those  cairns,  or 
stones,  resembung  men  when  at  a  distance,  which  t^ese  pei^e  erect 
fcnr  the  purpose  of  frightening  the  deer  within  their  reach.  In  this 
space,  amounting  to  fivi  miles,  which  we  had  travdved,  (Jiere  were 
two  litrge  lakes. 

3d.  During  our  yesterday's  excursion  the  men  nearly  demolished 
the  iceberg  which  chiefly  obstructed  our  possible*  eipt,  so  that  it 
was  hove  out  intothe  tideway  before  fife  o'elock:  but  as  it  conti- 
nued calm,  ww^pnaperature  of  80°,  there  was  little  chance  of  pro* 
ceeding,  ^uHAer  this  impediment  was  surmounted;  since,  in 
this  state  sflHp>  ^^  °^^  ice  could  not  fsul  to  set  us  fast  This 
morning  fflP^impwature  promised  even  worse,  being  only  13": 
but,  daring  the  day,  it  rose  to  21°,  the  weather  being  dear  and 
moderate.  landing  again,  we  reached  the  summit  of  the  highest 
accessible  hill  at  noon:  but  the  sight  of  the  horizon  from  it  was 
imperfect,  and  we  could  decide  on  nothinJ|^  though  what  We  did  see 
was  by  no  means  of  a  promiling  nature.  The  aipent  of  a  second  hiH 
disclosed  nothing  bat  a  vast  extent  of  land  from  the  north-east  to  the 
south-West,  with  no  space  o£  water  but  that  where  we  lay,  and  whidi 
resembled  the  bottom  of  aj^t  bay.  We  again  saw  the  tracks  of 
hares,  and  that  of  a  whitd  bear,  together'  with  those  of  ermines  and 
foxes;  picking  up,  moreover,  tiie  horns  of  a  reiodeer. 

The  state  of  the  ic^  was  however  (he  important  consideration; 
while  knowing  too  weU  how  difficult  it  is  here  to  judge  ^  the  na- 
ture and  connexions  of  the  land,  I  was  fidly  aware  that  we  could  not 
form  any  decisive  conclusions  from  what  w^  had  yet  seen.  The 
former  appeared  nearly  in  the  same  state;  and  we  had  now  even 
more  reason  to  believe  that  the  great  pack  was*  so  firmly  cemented 
for  the  winter,  that  it  would  separate  no  m(M«,  Of  the  land  I  was 
determined  to  arauire  more  knowledge,  if  that  should  be  posnUe, 
bv  travelling  as  iu-  as  it  diould  prove  acee8sible>  Our  ship  was  not 
absolutely  frozen  in;  but  she  was  niaeed  in  the  most  desirable  por- 
tion that  could  be  found,  in  ease  of  that  evrat  oceurriiig;  as  we  had 
now  so  much  reason  to  expect  "" — 

As  to  the  nature  of  Ae  land  thus  travtevsed,  it  differed  IHtte  fir«n 
wtmt  We  had  already  examined;  though  more  uneven  and  ni^^. 
The  vdleys,  as  before,  included  lakes;  but  those  wMck  w«  saw 


ao 


'4 


r 


W9 


^iKQOum  ^d^40B  pv  DiiooTK>r 


t 


^,. 


wfere  but  a'fev^  fc;et  deep,  and  seemed  to  contain  no  fish.    Angles ' 
MfttB  taken  frqin  a  cairn  erected  on  the  highest  hill,  together  with 
the  usual  bbservations.    In  the 'mean  time,  th6  llietk  on  bou^were 
emplojgtt  in  taking  thie  engine  to  pieces,  for  the  puif]Mae  of  la^dmg 
it;  th&l^gs  ivere  eitercised  iji  the  sledges,  and  oth^'^N^eparatiM] 
'  far  wintering  were  made.    The  tiiermoiiieter,  in  the  ni)g;ht^  sank  t 
16°  with  a  ful  of  snoW,  w^ile  the  air  had  a  peculiarly  raw  and  cold 

4M.  The  morning  temperature  was' 13°,  but  it  rose  to  17**  at 
nOon,  and  the  snow  ceased:  Being  Sunday,  divibe  servibe  was  per- 
formjed;  ahd  the  men  were  sent  on  shore  for  exercise,  when  some 
'  ptormigans'were  seen.'  The  ice  had  but  little  increased^  and  there 
was  still  much  often  water  to  the  ^orthieast,  With  sonie  to  the  south- 
*  wai^,  though  the  heavy  pack  which  lay  in  our  way^remain^  in  the 
same  state.  There  was  more  snow,  on  the  hills,  yet  the  approach  of 
winter  if 98  mufch  more  gradu^thiaa  it  had  usually  been  found  in^ 
these  climates.    ;  .      ' 

^'     5/A.  The  men  weire  -employed  in  unbending  some  of  tiiesno^l 
sails  and^in  unreeving  the  running  rigging,  while  the  enigineeniwere 
bbsied  in.continuing  the  work  which  they  had  commenced  on  ^a- 
^rd&y.  The  temperature  rose  from  14*^  to  17°,  hut  fell  again  to  14"- 
'in  the  evening;  and  there  was  open^  waler  not  very  far  from  the  ship. 
,  l*he  do^  were  again  exercised,  and  a  f«|x  was  seen  on  the  ice,  being 
die  first  that  we ^had  met  with.  ^An  aurora  "borealis  was  observed 
at  one  o'clock,  i^d  the  barometer  rose  to  30°  79*.    The  weather,  at ' 
,  the  same  time,  li^oame  so  thick  as  to  render  it  hopeless  at  present  to' 
get  any  further  sightof  the  land;  and  as  wd  were  at  length  quite 
frozen  round,  the  prospect^of  advancing  became  less  and  less  every   ' 
houJF.  '  f 

'  -eth.  A  fresh  breeze  of  wind  made  the  Ipet  night  colder  than  any 
which  had  preceded;  and,  itx  the  morning,  the  temperature  was  at  ' 
^.12*';  rising  in  the  course  of  the  day  to  .14"."  We  now  dicfrefore  pro- 
.  ceeded  to  cut  the  ice,  so  as  to  get  the  ship  into  what  we  considered 
the  position  of  greatest  safety  for  the  winter;  a  work  which  occu- 
piied  the  whole  day.  There  was  still  a  little  open  water  .to  the  north- 
ward: nbt  much  snow  fell,  and,  in.the  evening,  Ihe  .wind  shifted  to  , 
the  south,  blowing  fresh. 

The  tedium  of 't^is  day,  the  forerqnner  of  many  far  worse,  was 
enliveneJd  by  a  successful  bear  hunt,  being  the  fitst  chance  of  the 
kind  which  had  occurred  to  M^  The'  animal,  having  appi^ched 
the  ship,  was  turned  towards  the  island;  and  in  this  way  our  party, 
was  tabled  to  c^i  it  off  from  the  land.  Thus  imprisoned  we 
turned  our  Greenland  dogs  on  it;  but  they  proved  to  be  of  no  use, 
ftdwing  nothing  of  the  instinctive  desire  Nx>  attack  this  animal, 
which  is  do  general  in  their  race.  It  was  then  chase^  to  the  water; 
where,  plun^hg  into  the  new-formed  ice,  it  could  make  little  pro- 
gress, and  was,  consequently,  overtaken  by  t|;ie  akiff  and  killed.  Be- 


...V- 


■w*' 


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2 
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ti 

.  m 
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at 
til 
of 
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SO; 

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« 

• 

-     —'-           ^r  V 

•   ' 

^1 

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An^les' 
lOr  with 
were 
i  of  la^dmg 
[N^eparatiw] 
l^iit^sank  to 
ivr  and  cold 

?  to  17**  at 
tee  was  per- 
when  some 
1^  and  there 
D  the  south- ' 
oin^  in  the 
approach  of 
2n  found  in^ 

»f  the  sno^l 
;ineeniwere 
ced  on  Sa- 
igain  to  14"' 
)m  the  ship, 
e  ice,  being 
18  observed 
weather,  at- ' 
t  present  to' 
mgth  quite 
less  every   ' 

sr  than  any 
ture  was  at  - 
jirefore  pro- 
considered 
'hich  occu- 
>  the  north- 
[  shifted  to  , 


TO  THB  ABCTIC  RBOIOKS.* 


109 


i 


'  '/ 


ing  brought  dn^board,  it  proVed  to  be  a  female  of  a  i^edium  size; 
Measuring  SIX  feet  eight  incKes  between  the  nose  and  the  tail,  arid 
weighing  five  hundrtsd.poijjhds.  '  ),\^     "* 

•\  ^ih.  After  a  fine  mornli^,  th£  snow  came  on  at  eigh«  but'the 
WMther  Was  ao  much  mUder,  that  the  thermometer  ro*  fsom  li^o  to 
21  .    The  sawing  of  thence  was  finished  at  noon;  and  the  ship/be- 
ing  hauled  in,  was  placedwith  her  heiki  to  the  northward,  between 
the  Mland  and  th^main,  so  a«  to  be  quite" defended,hoth  from  the 
t?ast^n  and  western  blastt^    With  land  also  toward  the  north,  and 
tb?  rock  to  the  south-east,  she  was  open  to  only  three  points  of  the 
corapassi «»  that  we  had  reason  to  be  pleased  witli  our  success,  where  - 
no  peat  choice  could  have  been  commanded  at  any  tim&    The 
depth  of  wjrter  was  thirty-three  ffeet:  and  as  there  had  been  a  curnnt  ( 
as  Ipng  as  tiiere  could  have  been  one,  we  had  a  right  to  conckile  ' 
thatit  would  retom  wiUi  the  summer,  and  expedite  Ike  diamption/' 
of  the  ice,  so  as  to  assisti  ua  in  jetting  out,  whenever  that^Sason 
should  «mve.    The  boats  were  now  therefore  landed,  the  decks 
deared  of  ropes  anai8pars,.and  the  otheif  needfutammgements  made 
for  housing  the  ship  during  the  winter.  > 

8M.  There  could,  in  lact,  no  longer  I^  the  least  doubt  that  We     • 
7*^*"^*^'  ^»°*«!;  «^?*e;  if  wfe  could  indeed  have  reasonably  . 
doubted  this  some  days  before.    But,  as  I  hav^  already  s^d,  it  wi 
a  time  J»  come,  sooner  or  later;  and  if  we  had,  within  ^iiTlart  week*  *  ' 
ftundreasonsenpugh  to  feel  neither  suiprise  «or  ^isappoiptm?nt      , 
flo,as  I  had  confcludfed^  atour  first  entanglement  in.  this'Sace,  were 
^  ise  far  from  being  wire.that  we  had  any>ing  to  ^gret  ^We  cou W 

.^  tTiw^lf'l^'f i*°  J««da.^  active  lifi^nVrweSinoteve^knbw 
,        hat  we.should  find  any  thing  useful  to  dbT  but  it  wasair  busing  * 

^  S  «°°*^^?/«»P'y.e°**  and  to  make^urselvVM  eisy  andawiS ,< 

*'S.7  !^^*  und^  eirgumstaiwes  which  we  M  ample  Ajason  to  e^  * 

pfect    We  were,  I  believe,  aU  pret^  well  pr6videS  wiApatSMl 

^lt?*lT^w'^°u*^^°*^°'»^'*^"  ^^  «^r  years  to  a«w* 
aomewhat  deeply  On  the  former,  and  to  ppve,  pf  the  lattef,S5 
^    m^,  perhaps,  depenas  on  .a  fortunate  poiSEutiori  than  ^i^hl    -^ 

Our  convictiop  was  indeed  absolute;  for  Acre  was  ndW  not  an   ' 
itZlA  «L""^f  !:^  ^  «««»  "^y  where;  4nd  exceptibgAe  oc^ 
Z^J""^  Poin  of  a  protrqding  rock,  nothing  but  one  dSzlingTd 
ZnS^hT  •¥  .«»d  '.earisome  exteht  of  snow  was  visiKl 

prospect  Amid  all  it?. brilliancy,  this  land,  the  land  of  ice  and  snow  ' 
has  ever  been,  and  ever  wilf  be  a  dull,  drirv,  he^t^inkini^ST 
tonous  waste,  under  the  influence  of  ^hiTthe  ^S*is  X' 
lyzed,  ceasing  to  care  or  think,  «as  it  ce^  to  M  ^4tXh^  iK  ' 
k  i^l^.'l'r '*°' ^.  but pne  day, stimulaS tTby  ite  ^^y^^r^  . 
U  IS  but  the  view  of  uniformity  and  silence  and  dSithrS^n  I  ' 
poeucal  imaginatibh  wo^ld  be  troubled  to  extract  matter  of  dJSji 


*^ 


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h. 


« 


It 

.     >     '; 


-     1 


i 


'h 


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.;,  •^..•. 


'   •         •  'v 


*  ' 


(   •  , 


^■■■ 


i 


\K 


.)' 


i 


SECOND  TOTAOS  OF  DnCOTSRT 


tion'from  that  which  ulSttn  no  variety;  where  nothing  moves  and 
nothing  changes,  b|it  all  is  for  ever  ^%  same,  checfl-less,  cold,  and 
still.  -  ^ 

Amid  all  this,  if  was  a  satisfaction  ift  find  that  every  ohe  seeii|KKl 
pleased  with  the  pro^ss  which  had  been,.made.  It  was  indee^  &r 
.short  of  what  had  kt  first  been  expected;  but  on  examining  What 
''had  been  done,  much  more' quietly  and  far  more  in  detail'  than  we 
had  been  enabled  td  do  in  our  first  reflections  undei;  wis  obstruction, 
and  on  c^paring  that  ^ith  our  numerous  impedimeJQrts  and  misad- 
venturesj.  the  view  now  taken  was  not  less  reasonable  than  gratify- 
ing. We  could  not  forget  die  days  when  we  should  haye  tiiought 
ourselves  fortunate  though  we  had  only  neached  Port  Btxwen  in^^is 
season,  and  thbueh  we  had  failed  in  attaining  to  the  Sffireek  tiA 
the  stores  of  the  Fury.  But  whea  the  chart  was  at  length  di^layed 
before  us,  w«  saw  that  we  had  not  mprety  reached  this  great  point ' 
in  our  voya^,'  but  had  passed  it  by  a  hundred  and  siirty-six  geo- 
graphical miles,  and  were  two  hundred  further  than  that  harboor 
wher^we  had  expected  to  be  laid  up,  if  we  had  even  a^ned  that 
spot  Nor  was  it  less  satisfactory' to  reflect  on  the  numerous  dan- 
gers  which  we  had  escaped,  in  navigating  passages  so  thtly  intricate 
and  perilous,  under  the  gales  that  we  had  evaded,  and  through  the 
ice  which  had  been  rendered  oar  slave  ratther  than  our  master.  Thus 
comparing  and  considering,  as  we  had  at  lehgth  ample  time  and 
much  reasoh  to  do,  we  canie  to  the  ttanquillizing  conclusion  that 
we  were  now  become  9  little  united  and  settled  £Bimi1y;'aH  equally 
zealous  and  equally  patient;  all  ready  for  n^w  difficulties  Whenever 
they  should  occur,  and,  while  all  thankful  for  our  success,  atl»  whose 
duty  it  was  to  obey,  giving  obedience  jrith  a  good  will,  or  an  dac- 
rity,  which  might  not  have  been  equally  conspicuous  under  posi- 
tive martial  law. 

During  twenty-four  houirs  the  gale  was  fresh  from  the  eait-south- 
east,  wim  driving  snow,  which  was  inconvenient  as  far  as  our  works 
were  concerned;  hut  the  thermometer  being  at  24°,  the  cold  was  not 
severe.  The  men  were  employed  in  clearing  the  hold  and  measuring 
the  remaining  fuel,  and  the  engineers  were  busied  on  the  engine:  v^e 
the  carpenters  were  at  work  in  making  alterations  in  the  cabin,  to 
secure  us  better  from  the  cold.  We  had  not  lately  been  able  to  keep 
it  hi^er  than  28°,  in  consequence  of  the  position  of  the  door;  but  by 
these  alterations,  we  could  now  keep  it  at  45°,  and  had  no  desire  for  a 
higher  temperature.  This  is  sufficient  to  keep  off* damp:  and  in  this 
cKmate,  that  is  a  circumstance  more  to  be  avoided  than  mere  cold.  We 
boiled  the  blubber  of  our  bear  and  some  seals,  on  shore;  but  the  smell 
attracted  no  foxes  or  bears,jK>  that  we  believed  there  were  no  animals 
at  this  place. 

^  9/Ai  The  snow  ceased  tiiis  morning,  and  the  thermometer  rose 
from  19°  to  35°,  the  sun  shining  bright  during  the  day.  The  engine 
was  nearly  taken  to  pieces;  and,  by  thronring  down  the  bulk  head. 


■r 


I 


m 


TO  THB  Ascnc  SXajOHtk 


111 


the  Nttnen's  aceoomodatioDfl  were  mate^y  extended.  Obaerving 
tome  large  hples  of  water  to  the  aouth-west,  we  went  to  examine 
them,  and  found  them  varying  from  twenty  aquare  yards  to  an  acre, 
in  extent,  with  a  strong  current  boiling  up  at  their  western  side*, 
and  running  towards,  the  east,  in  which  direction  their  longest  di- 
mensions lay.  During  the  whole  day  this  current  remained  the 
same;  a  fact  which  puzzled  us,  as  we  were  obliged  to  postpone  the  ■■ 
determination  of  its  real  nature  and  cause  ^  the  ensuing  summer. 
If  there  were  any  among  us  who  had  theories  pf  springs  here  rising 
in  the  sea,  or  rivers  running;  into  it,  they  are  not  worth  the  trouble 
of  either  detail  or  examination.  '^       ^ 

Towards  evening  the  wind  came  round  to  the  northward,  and  the 
thermometer  fell  to  IS**.  A  aeal  was  diot,  but  was  lost  by  sinking; 
aiui  the  skeleton  of  th^  bear  haviA|;  been  sunk  in  the  water  tbaiit 
iji^ht  be  cleaned  bv  the  nurinetmimals,  was  brought  up  with  some 
ahnnpa  and  riiell  fish  attached,  to  increase  our  smadl  collection  of 
^lecimena.  This  wa»<  the  only  perfecUy  dear  night  we  had  aeen 
smce  oor  residence  in  these  straits;  and  the  moon  being  full,  the  as- 
pect of  eveiy  thing  was  unusually  i^eerfttl. 

10/A.  The  northerly  breeee  had  blown  hard,  but  subsided  towai^ 
morning,  so  as  to  leave  us  a  bright  and  clear  day;  the  sea  horizon, 
however,  presenting  a  thick  fog.  Nothing  remained  standing  op 
board  but  the  lower  masts  with  their  rigging.  An  excursioaon 
shore  led  us  to  a  rude  stone  of  a  columnar  form,  erected  by  the  Es- 
qiwmaus^  but  for  a  purpos6  that  did  not  appear;  and  we  observed 
the  tracks  of  foxes.  A  small  quantity  6t  clear  water  was  still  seeh 
to  the  northward,  as  well  as  in  the  openings  ah«ady  mentioned ;  hiit 
we  could,  conjecture  fio  cause  for  this  current    In  ih%  day  the  tem- 

Pf™iS"!«y"  P\^"'°?,*^  10"  «t  nij^ht    The  latitude  was  settled 
at  69"  58'  42"  and  longitude  92®  1'.6  .  - 

11/A.  The  sky  being  overcast,  the  thermometer  rose;  to  18°  but, 
even  at  this  temperature,  it  did  not  feel  cold,  as  the  breeze  was  mt 
derate.  The  sh,p»s  crew  were  mustered  in  good  health,  excepting 
R.  Wall,  who  had  (idlen  dowa  into  the  engine  room,  yet  without 
amr  senous  injury.  After  church  se^ice,  the  men  ^ire  allowed 
their  tarns  on  shore;  and,  in  their  walk,  they  set  up  a  landmark  for 
the  ship,  abdUt  four  miles  off  on  the  coast  The  wind  frejflienedk 
mght,  and  the  thermometer  fell  to  11°.  . 

12M,  13M.  There  was  no  material  change.  The  work  in  the 
ff- J".i'*°*"'"*^»  ??!'  P*"**  ^°^  *  powdeTmagazine  selected  on 
ThpTSJ  ^  ""'  which  was  consequently  named  Magazine  island. 
«^ln*  ?  l*«gre8towed,  the  fuel  was  measured,  5id  found  to 
amount  to  seven  hundred  bushels  of  coal  and  coke ;  beine,  as  ^ 
computed,  sufficient  for  the  ordinary  wanto  of  the  ship  K  ^e 
«^e  number  of  davs^   A  complete^examination  of  tlE  pSfi^Ss 

fort^tf  '"**  T.   ***  "1"^'  '"«"'  ^  fi"'*  *hat  there  wm  enough  : 
for  two  yean  and  t»n  months^  on  full  tUowarice;  a  quantity  easily 


' 

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SBOOITD  VOTAOB  OV  DUGOVBRT 


made  to  cover  three  years*  consumption.  The  <)uaiitity  of  oil  and 
tallow  vt^  found  such  as  to  promise  a  duration  equivalent  to  that  of 
the  provisions;  presuming,  at  least,  on  the  further  assistance  that  we 
had  a  right  to  expect  from  our  captures  of  bears  and  seals,  on  sea 
and  land. 

The  thermometer,  on  the  twelfth,  was  14",  falling  to  lO"  the  next 
day;  and  again  rising  to  SO",  it  remained  so  till  late,  not  falling 
below  17°  at  midnight;  the  weather  becoming  more  and'  more 
cloudy,  with  an  appearance  of  threatening  snow.    We  thought  our- 
selves fortunate  in  discovering  here  what  might  turn  out  a  source  ^ 
.of  fresh  provisions,  in  a  large  whelk,  which  had  not  been  seen  in 
the  former  voyages.    Some  unsuccessful  attempts  were  made  on  the 
seals,  and  a  part  of  the  engine  was  hoisted  oVer  on  the  ice.    The 
snow,  on  the  following  day,  14th,  %|[filled  its  promise;  coming  on 
very  early  in  the  morning,  when  the  theraiometer  rose  to  20**,  and 
then  to  «8*>,  falling  back  to  17"  towards  night    The  brass  guns 
were  put  on  the  ice,  with  more  of  the  engine,  and  the  lower  deck 
was  cleared  of  some  spare  stores,  by  stowing  these  in  the  hold. 
They  who  valued  omens  were  left  to  speculate  on  the  prophesying 
of  a  raven  which  flew  roun4  the  ship.    How  far  they  did  specubte, 
and  what  their  prognostics  were,  I  did  not  take  the  troubte  to  in- 
quire: had  they  been  either  absurd  or  important,  it  is  probable  that 
I  should  have  heard  enough  of  them,  without  inquiring. 


%■£ 


I  \; 


A 


,  %     V 


^:^-  ■ 


,■  :t 


■•V. 


TO  THB  ABCTIC  RBOIOITS. 


T        ii»  . 


CHAPTER  XIH.    ' 


Semarhon  the  actual temoerature  andon  that ^ sensation — Proceedin 
lightening  the  ship^Tjie  engine  finally  landedy  and  the  krusenstem 
secttred^Roo&ig  oftheship  completed— -Remarks  on  the  tempetaiure — 
Abolition  of  the  useof  spirits  onboard — Contrivances  f or  wttmiing  and 
tentUating  the  vapour  between  decks — Description  of  the  set&al  ar- 
rangements made  for  lointeriTigf  as  relating  Mh  to  the  ship  and  the  ^ 
crew*  ■  f",  ■ 

Oct.  la*.  iTrajpo^f^ased  before  daylight,  but  it  blew  fresh  from 
the  north;  feelin^ery  cold,  though  the  thermometer,  was  IS**;*  a 
temperaturef^hich,  but  a  few  days  before,  had  not  oeen  disagree^ 
able.  This  difference  is,  very  obviously,  as  it  is  vulgariy,  explained 
by  the  different  strength  of  the  wind;  while  the  immediate  cause,  on 
this  supposition,  is  too  simple  to  require  statement.  Bi|t  there  is 
much  more  to  be  taken  into  consideration;  while  some  of  the  cir* 
cumstances  are  either  so  little  heeded,  or  so  difficalt  to  perceive, 
that  if  the  reader  is  sometimes  puziled  to  explain  the  apparent 
contradictions  in  the  reports  on  tb£  actual  heat  and  on  that  of  sen* 
satioif,  they  who  feel  that  of  whi6h  others  read,  are  often  not  less 

Euzzled  themselves.  I  may  as  well  state  here,  once  for  all,  what 
as  struck  me  \^en  thinkuig  on  this  subject;  since  the  same  collision 
of  facts  is  likely  to  be  of  frequent  occurrence,  and  the  reader  will 
be  thus  enabled  to  explain  for  himself,  many  future  statements  of 
u»e  same  nature,  and  save  me  the  trouble  of  recurring  to  what  I 
beheve  to  be  the  phikMophy  of  tliis  subject  ^ 

Among  these  considerations,  is  (he  hygrometrical  state  of  the  air, 
of  which  we  did  not  prieserve  any  register  but  this  is  not  so  simple  a 
case  as  it  appears  at  first  sight.  Every  one  knows  that  a  dampair 
1Mb  cold  and  raw;  it  is  a  better  conductor  of  heat  Yet  the  same 
eflect  on  the  sensations  is  produced  by  the  reverse  condition  of  the 
atmosphere.  A  dry  air  increases  the  evajporatkm  from  the  body, 
and  that  evaporation  is  a  source  of  cold.  Cbmbining  one  or  other  of  ' 
these  conditions  with  the  varying  strength  of  the  wind,  we  already 
see  a  certain  way  into  the  intricacy  of  this  question;  but  that  b  n«4 
yet  the  whole,  even  as  the  inere  atmosphere  is  concerned.  The 
16 


/^ 


114 


UXOVD  VOTAlSB  OF  DOOOVBRT 


'■t 


:s.  "^i 


damp  air  does-  not,  necessarily  and  always,  produce  h  sensation  of 
coldness,  and,  least  of  alK  does  it  produce  this  effect  when  th^. 
weather  is  calm;  since  a  fog,  by  checking  the  radiation  of  heat  frdni 
the  surfiice,  may  be  more  than  an  equivalent  to  the  cold  which  its 
conducting  power  might  cause;  while  it  also  acts  in  the  same  direc- 
tion; in  another  manner,  by  checking  the  evaporation  from  the  body. 
But  the  state  of  the  body  itself  is  scarcely  of  less  moment  than 
all  this,  in  any  attempts  to  explain  these  apparent  contradictions; 
as  it  complicates  the  whole  question  in^  far  nigher  degree.    Every 
one  knows  that  the  sense  of  cold  can  exist  in  certain  fevers,  even 
under  the  burning  sun  of  Africa;  and  the  same  internal  sensation, 
as  of  a  Ipw  temperature,  is  of  frequent  occurrence  from  other  diseases, 
and  moreover  from  derangements  of  health  so  slight  as  to  be  unde- 
finable.    It  is  far  more  remarkable,  that  the  feeling  of  extreme  cold 
can  be  presejiit,  under  fever,  wh«n  th«  temperature  of  tbe  body  is 
many  degrees  above  the  natural  standard,  and  when  to  the  ti>ttch  of 
.     others,  the  patient  is  burning  hot;  as,'  in  the  space  of  a  very  few  mi- 
nutes, it  may  appe&r  the  same  jo  himself,  though  no  chaise  of  the 
actual  temperature  has  taken  place.  ' 

Thus  also,  if  the  circumstances  difier,  does  exercise,  or~the  want 
*  of  it,  produce  sensations  of  temperature,  when  there  is  nothing~«x- 
temal  to  cause  them;  and  the  case  is  similar  under  want,  or  reverse^, 
under  abundance,  of  food.  These  are  things  which  affect  the  power 
that  generates  animal  heat;  as  the  greater  or  less  energy  of  this 
power  is  perhapa  the  chief  c^use  of  all  the  facts  which  are  often  so 
difficult  of  explanation  under  a  simple  regard  to  external  tempent- 
ture.  That  eneigy,  too,  is  not  the  mere  produce  of  food  or  exercise; 
theire  are  cases,  in  which  no  alk>wance  ^f  food,  and  no  exertion  of 
^^  the  muscular  powers,  will  suffice  to  preserve  a  bigh  temperature  in 
the  human  body.  In  reality,' though  it  is  little  remaiVed,  and,  as 
far  as  I  know,  is  not  even  observed  by  the  writers  ra  physiploey,  the 
power  of  generating  heat  varies  exceedingly  in  different  individuals, 
and  is  as  much  a  portion  of  the  original  constitution,  as  are  the  mus- 
cular or  the  mental  energies.  Any  one  who  pleases  may  observe 
this  in  common  life;  it  was  always  striking  to  us,  in  circumstances 
where  the  application  of  the  test  was  so  often  extreme;  so  that,  after 
a  little  practice,  it  was  easy  to  anticipate  who  would  suffer  from  de- 
grees ofcold  which  others  wo^d  despise. 

In  mentioning  this,  I  am  also,  in  justice  to  the  chief  suflerers  in 
our  crew,  bound  to  observe,  that  1  have  myself  been  noted,  by  a 
^--.^physkdogist  of  well-known  reputation,  as  possessing  in  a  very  high 
■    decree,  th^fower  of  generating  heat,  whence  too,  as  he  infers,  that" 
.  indifference  to  cold  of  which  I  was  always  conscious;  together,  con- 
sequently, with  the  very  limited  comparative  su£ferin^\  that  I  ex- 
perienced durinjg  that  long  protracted  winter,  as  I  may\  fairly  call 
.  _   it,  which  occupied  ibur  of  the  winters  of  England,  yet  sueh  wmters 
as  Ei^land  never  nw  and  will  never  conjecture,  together  with  five 


TO  THV  ARCTIC  RBOIORS. 


116/ 


i  sensation  of 
ct  when  thu, 
I  of  heat  frdm" 
cold  which  its 
e  same  direc- 
'om  the  body, 
moment  than 
ontra^ictions; 
gree.  Every 
fevers,  even 
Dal  sensation, ' 
>ther  diseases, 
a  to  be  unde- 
eztreme  cold 
f  the  body  is 
>  the  ^ttch  of 
very  few  mi- 
hai^e  of  the 

,  oirthe  want 
a  nothing~u- 
orrevereew, 
ct  the  power 
aergy  of  this 
I  are  often  so 
nal  tempera- 
d  or  exercise; 
0  exertion  of 
mperature  in 
iVed,  and,  as 
lysiplo^,  the 
t  individuals, 
are  the  mos^ 
may  observe 
ireumstances 
so  that,  after 
[fier  from  de« 

r  sufleren  in 
noted,  by  a 
a  very  high 
e  infers,  that 
sgether,  con- 
^  that  I  ex- 
iy\  fairly  call 
such  wmtera 
lier  with  five 


i 


summers,  of  which  ever^  one  would,  in  that  countnr,  be  deemed 
severe  beyond  the  severity  of  its  own  Januaries  andf  Februaries. 
I  muA  leave  it  to  the  reader  to  judge  how  far  this  constitution  may 
have  influenced  my  reports  on  the  temperature  of  sensation,  on 
many  occasions;  it  is  certain  that  I  could  not  judge  what  others  felt; 
but  1  coiild  not  haye  described  what  I  did  not  myself  feel. 

These  4-emarks  are  not  mere  matters  of  philosophical  speculation, ' 
nor  are  they  questions  of  amusement  or  curiosity  alone.  They  oBcr 
useful  hints  to  those  who  may  hereafter  engage  in  similar  expedi- 
tions; since  they  deserve  some  among  the  first  attentions  in  the 
selection  of  a  crew.  Other  circumstances  of  apparent  health  and 
strength  being  equal,  it  is  he  who  seems  the  readi^t  generator 
of  heat  who  ought  to  be  the  selected  individual;  for  no.  one  will 
know,  until  he  haf  su.£^red  from  it,  what  disappoiStmcnts  and  vex- 
ations and  labours,  and  restraints  to  the  service,  follow  from  the  su»> 
ceptibility  of  cold  in  the  individuals,  who  may  form  the  crew  of  a 
ship  on  a  service  like  this:  to  say  nothing  of  the  accidents,  in  morti- 
ficationr  and  death,  and  in  scurvy  too,  I  have  little  doubt,  which 
follow  from  the.  same  cause,  I  know  not,  hawever,  that  I  can  give 
rules  that  will  not  produce  disappointment,  where  the  test  of  facts 
would  be  the  really  desirable  guide.  Bui  this  at  least  seems  cer- 
tain, that  men  of  the  largest  appetites  and  most  perfect  digestion 
produce  the'most  heat;  as  feeble  stomachs,  whether  dyspeptic,  as  it 
is  termed,  or  merely  unable  to  receive  much  food,  are  subject  to^ 
suffer  the  most  from  cold;  never  generating  heat  enough  to  redst  its 
impressions.  -  , 

Physicians  must  determine  whether  the  strong  digestive  power 
and  the  heat-generating  one  are  but  parts  of  one  original  constitu- 
tion, xtr  whether  the  laree  use  of  food  is  not  a  cause  of  the  produc- 
tion of  heat;  but  what  follows  is  at  least  practically  true,  as  the 
-reasons  seem  abundantly  plain.  He  who  is  well-fed  resists  cold  better 
than  the  man  who  is  stinted;  while  the  starvation  from  cold  follows 
but  too  soon  9.  starvation  in  food.  This,  doubtless,  explains  in  a  great 
measure,  the  resisting  powers  of  the  natives  of  these  frozen  climates: 
their  consumption  of  food,  it  is  familiar,  being  enorinous,  and  often 
incredible.  But  it  is  also  a  valuable  remark  for  those  who  may 
hereafter  be  situated^ike  ourselves;  since^if  these  views  ^re  correct, 
M  I  believe^  them,  both  from  experience  ftnd  reasoning  to  be,  it 
shows  that  no  effort  should  be  spared  to  ensure  a&  ample  supply  of 
the  best  food.  ,   ^^ 

Our  system,  whether  in  the  navy  or  the  merchant  servic^  and  in" 
whatever  parts  of  the  world,  be  it  the  icy  seas,  or  the  tropical  ocean, 
MS  been  as  fixed  as  it  is  uniform;  and  perhaps  1  ought  not  to  blame 
those  who  have  made  r^ulations,  when  they  did  not  know,  and 
could  not  therefore  take  into  consideration  the  grounds  on  which 
their  orders  ought  to  have  been  regulated.  If  the  allowance  of 
the  food  for  seamen,^under  all  ppssible  differences  of  climate,  or 


\; 


.-  >1 


( 


I   ^    "^  ■*,,-•  t 


■:*.t» 


rtrn 


/ . 


SIECOIfD  VOTAOB  OF  DISOOVBRY 


\ 


labour  of  service,  technically  ipeakine,  has  been  fixed  and  uni< 
form,  implying  circumstances,  and  involving  consequences  respect- 
ing wfaiCD  1  dare  not  here  take  room  to  speak,  so,  in  the  case  fmme- 
diately  before  me,  have  we  been  accustomed  to  fix  the  allowance 
of  food,  to  restrict  it,  I  may  fairly  say,  through  an  experience 
founded  on  far  other  circumstances,  or  under  a  system  calculated 
from  very  diflereot  data. 

>  The  conclusion  therefore  in  which  I  wish  to  rest,  willingly  as  I' 
would  have  extended  these  remarks,  and  perhaps  then  extending 
them  so  as  to  produce  the  greater  conviction,  is  this;  namely,  that 
in  every  expedition  or  voyage  to  a  polar  reeion,  at  least  if  a  yrinter 
residence  is  contemplated,  the  quantitv  of  rood  should  be  increased* 
be  that  as  inconvenient  as  it  may.  It  would  be  very  desirable  in- 
deed if  the  men  could  acquire  the  taste  for  Greenland  food;  since 
all  experience  has  shown  that  the  large  use  of  oil  and  fat  meats  is 
the  true  setcret  of  Kfe  in  these  frozen  countries,  and  that  the  natives 
cannot  subsist  without  it;  becoming  diseased,  and  dying  under  a 
more  meagre  diet.  Nor  do  I  know  that  this  is  impossible;  since  it  is 
notorious  that  where  the  patients  in  English"^  hospitals  have  been 
treated  with  fish  oil  for  the  cure  of  rheumatism,  they  not  only  soon 
learn  to  like  it,  but  prefer  that  which  is  strongest  and  most  offen- 
sive. I  have  little  doubt,  indeed,  that  many  of  the  unhappy  men 
who  have  perished  from  wintering  in  these  climates,  and  whose  his- 
torieii  are  well  known,  might  have  been  saved  if  they  had  been 
aware  of  these  facts,  and  had  conformed,  as  is  so  generally  prudent» 
to  the  usages  and  the  experience  of  the  native^ 

I  know  not  that  I  am  safe  in  making  another  remark  respecting 
the  constitutkmB  which  peouliarly  generate  Heat,  becauaH  this  is  the 
business  of  phyricians;  but  they  will  be  r^ady  enough  to  correct  me 
if  I  am  wrong.  A  ruddy,  elastic,  florid,  oAr  clear  complezioned  man, 
has  always  seemed  to  me  better  secured  by  nature  against  cold,  tbt^ 
the  reverse  constitution;  and  the  term  for  the  former  is  a  saneuine 
temperament,  while  that  which  is  applied  to  the  other  is,  &  pnl^- 
matic  or  a  melancholic  man:  but  physicians  best  know  how  many 
species  there  are  in  this  class.  At  any  rate,  the  pftle,  and  flabby, 
and  sallow,  and  melancholy-looking  men,  are  not  the  men  for  an 
arctic  voyage;  they  suffer  most  from  cold,  whatever  individual  ex- 
ceptions there  may  be;  and  therefore  I  suppose  that  they  do  not 
manufacture  heat  to  the  same  extent  as  the  otherp.  If  such  men 
also  are  slow  and  melancholy  in  mind,  as  I  believe  to  be  very  com- 
mon, this  is  most  assuredly  an  additional  reason  against  employing 
them;  for  even  when  these  feelings  occur  in  a  better  temperament, 
they  diminish  the  power  of  resisting  cold;  as,  if  the  exciting  pasnons, 
as  they  are  termed,  a  fact  which  I  know  not  how  to  doubt,  led  to  the . 
generation  of  heat,  and  the  depressing  ones  to  the  reverse.  And  this, 
pe  the  theory  true  otnot,  bemg  practically  the  fact,  inasmuch  as 
hope  an4  confidence  make  men  bear  that  cold  under  which  the  timid 


^ 


J2>w_ 


« 


TO  THB  ARUTIC  RlOlOira. 


Ked  and  uni- 
Dces  retpect- 
e  case  frnme- 
le  allowance 
1  experience 
ID  calculated 

willingly  as  t 
en  extending 
namely,  that    ' 
Bt  if  a  winter 
be  increased,, 
desirable  in- 
d  food;  since — 
I  fat  meats  it 
it  the  natives 
ing  under  a 
le;  since  it  is 
Is  have  been  ~ 
not  only  soon 
1  most  ofien- 
mhappy  men 
id  whose  his- 
ey  had  been 
allyprudent» 

i4c  respectiitg 
tse  this  is  the 
o  correct  me 
sxioned  man, 
ist  cold,  than 
isasaneuine 
is,  a  pbl^' 
w  how  many 
,  and  flabby, 
s  men  for  an 
^dividual  ex- 
t  they  do  not 
rf  such  men 
ie  very  com- 
st  employing 
staiperament, 
ting  passions, 
bt,  led  to  the . 
!.  And  this, 
inasmuch  as 
ich  the  timid 


'^.* 


an 
4' 


^'3 


ana  desponding  suffer,  theugfa  perhaps  it  is  only  that  the  same  con- 
stitution leads  to  both  results,  producing  hope  and  displaying  energy 
while  it  also  generates  heat,  another  suggestion  offers  itself  respecting 
the  care  to  be  beitowed  on  the  crew,  and  the  occupations  which  should 
be  invented  for  them,  as  well  as  in  regard  to  the  original  choice;  sinca 
it  thus  becomes  the  interest,  not  less  than  the  duty,  of  the  commancP 
ing  officer,  to  keep  up  their  spirits  and  hopes,  by  any  means  that  he 
r,  can  Contrive;  as,  in  doing  this,  he  also  knows  that  he  is  ado^ng  one 
(^  the  best  expedients  against  the  attacks  o/ the  scurvy. 

I  will  only,  add  to  these  remarks,  what  may,  I  trust,  be  of  use  to 
future  arctic  navigators,  namely,  that  although  every  expedient  in 
the  way  of  clothing  should  be  adop^e^  for  resisting  the  impressions  of 
extertial  temperature,  as  these  ar^|i|^ell  known  to  require  detail, 
nothing  will  compensate  for  the  jii|^^ke,heat.generating  energy, 
but  external  heat;  as  that  is  IttiBKAn  imperfect  expedient. 
It  IS  of  Ijtlle  use  to  clothe  hiHiiKf^o^  '*»  himself,  produce 
heat;  itu  like  the  attempt  to  ^^SMmmmeot  ice  by  means  of  a 
blanket;  but  it  is  too  commons  JpM^o  imagine  that  the  expe- 
dient which  can  only  preserve  h'esifirtapable  of  producing  it. 
_  16/A.  The  weather  cmitinued  fihe,but  the  thermometer  fell  to  6". 
We  cdntinued  to  lighten  the  ship  and^et  out  the  boilers.  I  ascended 
the  highest  acfcessible  hill  to  the  south-west,  and  obtaining  a  good 
view,,  conceived  that  the  distant  land  was  continuous  from  the  south- 
west till  it  closed  in  with  the  west  end  of  the  island,  though  I  could 
not  be  positive  respectingobjects  so  far  off",  nor  be  sure  that  there 
was  not  some  opeiiinjg.  The  land  was  very  rugged,  and  intersected 
by  ravines,  with  many  small  islands  scattered  along  the  shore.  There 
was  still  some  clear  water  to  the  northward  and  in  the  inlet;  but  the 
horizpn  Mng^  lyizy,  we  <?ould  not  see  further  than  Hecla  and  Fury 
islaijd.  The  holes  in  the  ice  which  we  had  noticed,  were  now  frozen 
up,  and  all  marks  of  a  current  had,  of  course,  disappeared.  1^/A. 
ATstrong  north  wind  made  the  cold  very  severe  on  th^  following  day, 
though  the  ;thermometer  ranged  between  14®  and  8°.  A  single 
coal  fish  was  taken;  and  I  doubt  if  it  was  before  kn4Hfe|hat  this 
species  frequented  the  seas  so  far  north;  jf,  indeed,  WV^uId  not 
prove  a  new  one. 

l&h.  It  was  a  beautiful  day,  with  ealm  weather;  the  thetrmometer 
was  between  G'  and  8«';  but  in  the  evening  it  fell  till  it  reached  one 
degree  onlv,  at  seven  o'clock.  This  was  ly  very  much  th6  lowest 
temperatu^  we  had  vet  experienced.  Sunday  found  all  our  men 
well,  and  him  who  had  met  with  the  aceident  recovered.  More 
than  hfty  lunar  distances  were  obtained  for  the  longitude.  The 
aurora  was  seen  in  the  sOuth-east  Our  nets  continued  to  bring  up 
the  welcome  shell  fish,  but  not  in  gr^t  numbers. 
'-19th.  The  thermometer  rose  a  few  degrees  as  the  sun  proceeded  - 

Iv^SL™!*!!      ;i.*°*  **  ""Tt  ^^^  *<>  ^^'    't  continues  calm  till 
eveijing,  when  there  was  a  light  air.    We  again  obtained  lunar 


Ik' 


>     ■ 


f':      X' 


'  ■■! 


118 


^ECOND  VOrAQJB  Ot  DISCOVERY 


r.i  ■ 


Hi\ 


! 


.!  . 


J/ 


It 


11 


M;' 


;'• 


distfinces  to  the  amount  of  a  hundried  and  twenty,  with  meridian 
altitudes  of  the  sun  and  of  several  i^jtars.  A  chronometer,  intended 
for  the  transit  observations,  was  set  to  mean  time.  In  the  course  of 
the  evening,  the  frames  belonging  to  the  engin^  were  got  out:  and 
I  believe  the  men  felt  that  they  were  fast  ridding^hemselves  of  a 
nuisance;  of  an  ^ncmy,  where  they  had  reckoned  on' a  friend. 

2Qth,'The  fine  weather  continued,  and  the/temperatu|j^*|ell  to 
two  degrees  under  zero.  It  was  our  first  minus^  andwe  h^an  to 
agree  that  the  cold  weather  was  really  arrived.  But  it  was  verf 
tolerable  thus  far.  In  the  course  of  the  day  it  rose  to  plus  7°;  but, 
at  night,  fell  again  to  minus  9".  The  last  of  the  engine  was  hoisti^ 
out:  may  I  not  say  that  there  was  not  one  of  us  who  did  not  I&il 
this  event  Wtth  pleasure.  We  could  not  even  look  at  its  fragment^ 
without  recollecting  what  it  ought  to  have  been,  and  what  it  proved 
to  be;  nor  Without  reflections,  ahd  those  not  kind  ones,  on  its 
maker,  when  we  remembered  the  endless  and  ever  recurring  trials 
of  our  patience  which  it  had  caused,  the  never  ceasing  jaboAr  of 
the  m0n  in  its  reparation,  the  .ever  renewed  hopes,  prodi^cing  ever 
new  disappointments,  and  the  loss  of  temper,  to  most  of  us,  I  fear, 
of  which  it  had  been  the  fertile  cause.  The  enemy,  however,  was 
at  last  at  our  feet;  and  while  it  was  incumbetit  on  us  to  store  it  up, 
though  it  would  in  reality  be  difficult  to  say  why,  were  it  not  from 
that  habit,  or  feeling,  which  rebels  against  absolute  wastefulness,  I 
believe  there  was  not  one  present  who  ever  again  wished  to  see,* 
even  its  minutest  fragment.  ' 

2lst..  The'  Krusenstern  was  secured  yesterday,  and,  at  night,  an 
aurora.made  its  appearance.  A  fish  which  we  believed  might  be  a 
new  species,  as  we  had  not  seen  it  before,  w;as  taken.  The  thermo- 
meter was  low,  ranging  between  plus  and'  minus  4*:  the  weather 
nearly  cajm.  The  erection  of  a  roof  over  the  ship  v^as  commenced, 
and  a  white  fox  shot  We  could  get  no  lunar  observations,  and%ere 
not  likely  to  procure  them  again  for  the  next  four  months. 

22d.  Though  the  land  was  mu(;h  elevated  by  refraction,  this  day, 
it  showed  us  nothing  new:  the  thermometer  did  not  materially  vary. 
It  now  became  necessary  to  cut  away  the  ice  round  ilj/s  ship,  m 
consequence  of  her  having  been  8d«^uch  lightened;  that  she  might 
set^e  to  her  natural  line  of  flotation.  This  being  doDe,  she  rose 
nine  inches;  and  we  proceeded  to  build  up  a  bank  of  snow  and  ice 
round  her,  for  shelter  from  the  cold.  The  galley  was  also  moved, 
and  placed  in  the  centre  of  the  men's  berths,  that  the  heat  from  the 
fire  might  be  more  equally  distributed.  A  tank  of  plate  iron  was, 
further,  placed  on  the  upper  deck,  over  the  coppers;  aiiQ,  by  this 
contrivance,  the  steam,  which  is  a  constant  annoyance  at  these  low 
temperatures,  was  secured  and  condensed.  Another  raven  was 
seen;  and  our  fishery  of  whelks,  though  never  very  productive,  was 
continued  daily. 
23d.  A  fre^h  breeze  rendered  the  cold  very  sensible  to^y;.  |fut 


* 


1 


-1  t. 


-»■,.. 


v/,  ,3^ 


-  %.,  .-»• 


'■■*r' 


\J      TO  THE  ARCTIC  RSGIDITS. 


110 


iti  eflfect  was,  nevertheless}  to  raise  the  thermometer  from  minus  6* 
to  plus  8°  in  the  course  of  the  day.  This  wind  continued  on  the  fol- 
lowing day,  with  drift  snow;  the  thermometer  falling  to  minus  d® 
and  then  rising  again  as  high  as  plus  15°.  This  is  a  sure  indication 
of  snow  in  these  climates;  and  accordingly  a  heavy  fall  came  on  at 
midnight.  S^me  other  useful  alterations  were  this  day  made  in  the 
ship;  and,  among  t^he  rest,  a  pipe  was  carried  from  the  upper  deck 
to  the  fire,  by  means  of  which  that  was  easily  regulated.  These 
things  being  done,  it  was  found  that  a  very  small  quantity  of  fuel 
was  sufficient  to  keep  the  lower  deck,  where  the  crew  lived,,^  and 
comfortable,  and  to  maintain  a  medium  heat  of  about  .sl^  being 
what  I  judged  the  most  advantageous  one. 

25<A.  The  snow  continuing  in  the  morning  the  fhermemeter  rose 
to  18  ,  but  began  to  fall  at  noon,  and,  in  the  evening,  was  at  minus 
6  .  Prayers,  and  exercise  on  shore,  occupied,  as  usual,  their  por- 
tions of  the  present  Sunday.  We  had  set  a  fox-trap  yesterday,  and 
to-day  it  was  found  robbed  by  the  d<^.  '  •'  ^ 

26/A.  TlK)ugh  the  temperature  was  not  materially  different  this 
day,  a  smart  gale  «^de  the  cold  Very  severe.  We  there^re  hastened 
to  complete  the  roofing,  which  was  done  by  means  of  the  spare  sails 
procured  from  the  Rookwood's  and  the  Fury's  stores:  and  we  imme- 
<'>ately  found  the  advantage  of  this  a4ditional  security  against  the 
cold.  Other  needful  arrangements  on  the  part  of  the  carpenters 
an|  engineers,  found  us  in-door  employment,  when  it  was  especially 
uniife  for  inexperienced  men  to  work  out  of  the  ship,  lest  they  should 
be  fi;pst-bitten.  . 

Vtth.  After  continuing  to  blow  a  storm  all  day,  the  wind  fell  at 
SIX  o'clock,  and  the  weather  cleared:  after  which  the  snow  ceased, 
and  it  becam^  calm.  We  were  thus  enabled  to  make  considerable' 
•rogr^es  for  a  time  in  c|ur  srtow  (ortification;  but  in  the  evening  it 
•lew  as  hard  as  ever,  and  the  thermometer  fell  to  minus  ll".  Tlius 
It  continued  till  six  on  the  following^  morning,  when  it  settled  and 
cleared.  In  the  course  of  this  day  the  temperature  sunk  to  minus 
18°,  being  the  lowest  that  had  yet  occurred.  The  ship,  however 
being  now  completely  housed  in,  we  found  ourselves  in  a  very  com- 
comfortable  position.  '  ': 

,J't\J^  the  course  of  the  preceding  night  the  thermometer  rose 
to  plu8\3»,  and,  during  the  day,  to  4«;  a  state  of  things,  as  I  have  just 
remarked,  always  attending  snow,  which  accordingly  fell  in  consi- 
derable\auantity.  On  the  following  day,  the  drift.was  so  great  that 
we  could  not  proceed  with  our  embankment.  The  changes  in  the 
temperature  were  not  so  remarkable  as  V>  need  recording  here;  but 
1  must  rimark,  that  on  this,  as  on  almost  every  preceding  occasion, 

fn  ♦!.  TT**r  indicated  the  coming  g^le.    A  white  fox  was  taken 
in  tne  traj6,  alive. 

Jnl\^T^^  •'1*1  '""  ^^V'  "**•  *^«  thermometer  fell  to 
minus  16  .  ,  At  sunset  there  was  a  large  halo,  being  but  the  second 


'f- 


\- 


T\' 


u»** 


120 


SECOND  VOYAGE  OF  DISCOVERY 


^^  that  we  had  seen;  it  was,  however,  only  a  white  onei*  There  was 
afterwards  an  aurora  to  the  southward.  The  tops  of  the  mouDtains 
were  considerably  bared  of  their  snow  by  the  gale:  but  the  c<«- 
trasf  of  their  dark  rocks  with  the  whiteniess  antundronly  served  to 
render  the  aspect  of  this  winter  landscape  jnore  desolate.  The  pow 
fox  was  accidentally  strangled:  only,  however,  anticipating  a  fate 
which  we  should  have  been  obliged  to  inflict  hereafter,  though  we 
didnot  then  foresee  it  ,  * 

We  had,  on  this  day,  completed  the  first  month  of  our  im|HisoD> 
ment  in  this  dreary  and  miserable  country,  and  were  naturally  led 
to  compare  our  present  condition  with  those  of  preceding  voyagers, 
and  to  make  some  general  remarks  on  various  matters,  the  pest 
-  important  if  which  I  may  now  record,  as  briefly  ai  may  be.  --——- 
I  may  firstnote,  that  in  this  cKmate,  unlike  to  Sweden  and  Norway, 
the  degree  of  the  'tenmerature  bears  little  or  no  relation  to  theiati- 
tude.  This  will  be  sufficiently  evident  by  the  brief  comparative  table 
which  I  here  insert,  relating  to  our  own  mean  for  this  month  and 
those  which  Had  been  formerly  found  at  Afelvilie  island,  Winter 
island,  Igloolik,  and  Port  Bbwen.    It  is  itot  however  a  very  accu- 

'   rate  comparison;  because^  in  these  casfes,  the  temperatures  were 
observed  on  board  the  ships,  not  on  the  ice;  while  the  allowance  of 
three  degrees  for  that  difierence  is  far  from  sufficient;  my  own  ex- 
perience showing  that  it  may  amount  even  to  six  degrees. 
These  ai%  the  facts  ic^questbn: 


r,« 


i'^^ 


'.! 


m- 


ib,. 


Victory's  DOS. 
Melville  Isl. 
Winter  Island 
leloolik 
^rt  Bowen 


Latitude. 


69°  69'  00" 
74°  47'  20 " 
66°  ir  27" 
69«'  20'  30" 
73°  13'  40 " 


Longitude. 


92°  01'  06 " 
110°  48'  7" 
83°  11'  0" 
81°  52'  46 ' 
88°  64'  48" 


Meai^mp.  of 


L 


Oct.  1829, 
Do.  1819, 
Do.  1831, 
Do.  1822, 
Do.  1824, 


+  8°,  43t 
—  6°,  60t 
+  9°,  61» 
+  9°,  79t 
-1-10°,  85* 


In  the  next  place,  comparing  our  progress  with  some  preceding 
ones,  it  was  true^hat  we  had  not  reached  so  far  westward  as  Mel- 
ville island;  but  %e  had  wrought  tMir  way  through  as  much  ice, 
since  the  extent  of  this  navigation  had  been  240  geographical  'miles, 
as  our  progress  had  also  been  a  very  laborious  one,  and  not  a  little 
hazardous  on  more  than  one  occasion. 

It  was  now,  further,  quite  ascertained  that  the  tides  came  from 
the  northward,  and  were  both  later  and  k>wer  when  the  wind  was 
from  the  south.  We  had  seen  no  Whales  for  the  iMt  sixty  miles, 
and  had  never  fallen  in  with  a  walrus. :^       ~t  ~— 

I  formerljT'  mentioned  the  quantity  of  proviuons  and  fuel  that  we 
had  remaining,  which  were  computed  to  last  till  August,  18d2> 


if 


.■li- 


r 


'  There  was 
he  mouDtains 
but  the  c<Hi- 
tnly  served  to 
te.  ThepoM* 
lating  a  fate 
>,  though  W(^ 

rar  im[MiBon> 
naturally  led 
ing  voyagers, 
irs,  the  nest 
ly  be.  --- 
and  Norway, 
m  to  theiati- 
larative  table 
is  month  and 
land,  Winter 
a  very  accu- 
ratures  were 
allowance  of 
my  own  ex- 
ees. 


^mp.  of 


I 


+  8°,  43t 

,     — 6°,  60t 

+  9°,  61* 

+  9°,  79* 

-1-10°,  85' 

ne  preceding 
ward  as  Mel- 
as  much  ice, 
tphical  miles, 
1  not  a  little 

ss  came  from 

:hc  wind  was 

sixty  miles, 

fuel  that  we 
ugust,  1838. 


to  THE  ARCTIC  REGIONS. 


xy 


ISl 


But  there  was  only  one  year's  allowaiij^e  of  spirits,  which  was  a 
^    subject  rather  of  congratulation  than  otberwise,  since  there  can  be 
no  question  of  their  pernicious  effects  in  these  frozen  climates;  on& 
of  thosp,  being,!  have  no  doubt,  to  increase  the  tendency  to  scurvy. 
It  was  necessary,  however,  that  what  we  had  should  be  reserved  for 
the  future  parties  on  land  excursions,  where  it  might  often  prove  of 
considerable,  if  temporary  service;  or,  as  naight  become  necMsary, 
for  our  use  in  case  of  shipwreck,  and  our  being  condemned  tFtake 
to  the  boats;  since  this  article  would  then  be  valuabli  not  merely  as 
an  article  of  diet,  but  as  fuelJFor,  finally  under  the  chance  of  our 
being  unable  to  liberate  the  sivp  in  the  spring,  and  being  thus  com- 
pelled to  Gontinue  our  investigatidfis  by  land.    Orders  were  accord- 
ingly given  to  stop  the  use  and  allowance  of  grog;  while  it  was  very 
satisfactory  to  find  th^t  these  were  received  Without  remonstrance. 
Our  roofing  had  been  perfected  in  this  months  but  it  still  re- 
mained to  complete  our  embankinent,^d  to  cover  the  upper  deck 
with  snow.  *  More  arrangemenfij  than  those  yet  noticed  had  also 
been  made  in  the  interior  of  tb&ihip,  by  constructing  a  room  in  the 
place  of  the  steerage,  to  recAv^'the  men's  chests  and  the  apparatus 
for  cooking  and  baking;  while  earner  flues  were  carried  from  them 
round  the  whole  apartment,,  in  ^der  to  convey  away  the  vapour. 
Over  the  steam  kitchen,  oven,  ^d  after  passage,  apertures  were 
made  in  the  upper  deck,  on  which^liere  placed  iron  tanks  with 
their  openings  downward.    In  these  &e  vapour  was  received,  and 
became  immediately  condensed:  but  though  we  rather  expected 
that  we  might  have  ^rawn  it  off  in  the  shape  of  water,  and  had 
contrived  means  accordingly,,  we  founcl  it  so  generally  frozen  that 
these  wei-e  of  no  use. 

We  found  this  last  eontrivance  to  be  the  best  that  had  yet  been 
adopted;  and  chiefly  as,  by  keeping  the  apa/tment  of  the  crew  dry, 
Jt  saved  the  necessity  of  forcing  up  the  temperature,,  as  hand  been 
done  on  former  occasions,  for  the  purpos/of  keeping  the  vapour 
afloat  till  it  was  condensed  on  the  beams  and  ^ck.  This,  tao,' 
involved  a  great  saving  of  fuel:  since  we  found  tiiat  a  temperature 
between  40"  and  60«  was  sufficient  to  make  the  place  dry,  warm, 
nnd  comlbrtable,  whereas  it  had,  in  the  fhips  that  preceded  us,  been 
necessary  to  carry  it  as  high  asiQCP.  # 

The  regulations  adopted  on  other  mattes  were  the  foltowing; 
and  I  point  them  out,  that  future  adventurers  in  this  country  ms^ 
gam,  without  labour,  the  eXjierience  which  had  iukv  been  pur- 
chased by  many  successive  voyages.  It  will  easily  be  seen  liow 
'  much  of  all  this  was  dlrettly  useful,  for  some  one  or  other  specific 
purpose,  and  how  far  the  intention  was  to  find  occupation  for  the 
minds  of  the  men,  and  exercise  for  thei^  bodies. 


The  men  slept  in  hammocks,  which  were  taken  down  at  Ax  in 
the  mormng,  and  hung  up  at  ten  at  night,  b^ng  also  aired  twice  a 
week.    The  tewer  deck,  being  the  dwelling  floor,  was  covered  with 


M^ 


/ 


.'V 


'W 


♦  % 


125^ 


SECOND  VOYAGE  OF  DISCOVERY 


r?-- 


4^ 


hot  sand  eVerv  morning,  and  scrabbed^with  sand  till  eight,  when 

tKe  men  breakfasted.    Monday  was  settled  in  future  as  the  waging 

day:  and  this  operation  being  finished  by  noon,  the  linen  we^s  dried 

at  the  stove.    The  upper  deck  having  been  at  length  covered  with 

snow  two  feefand  a  half  in  thickness,  it  was  tfod  down  till  it  became 

a  solid  niass  of  ice,  and  was  then  sprinkled  with  sand,  »so  as  to  put 

on  the  appearance  of  a  rolled  gravel  wafk'.    Above  this,  was  the 

i        roof  already  mentioned,  of  which  the  canva\ sides  were  contiqued 

so  low  as  to  cover  those  of  the  ship.    The  surrounding  bank  of  snoWr 

being  completed,  reached'to  the  ship's  gunwale,  so  that  the  union 

of  this  with  thh  roof  formed  a  perfect  shelter  from  all  wind,  and 

thus  excluded,  very  materially;  thfe  impressions'of  the  ezter^l  fold* 

In  the  same  manner  there  was  a  covering  of  snow  to  the  cabm  deck, 

whife  the  skylight  was  fitted  vvkh  double  sashes:  but  the  way  from 

<^^      the  cabin  to  the  deck  was  not  closdd,  since  the  frost  was  not-yet  so 

ir,  \  intense  as  to'rendtr  that  neces^ry:  the  inner  doors  wer^  merely 

I  fitted  with  ropes  and  pulleys.  ^       ^^  «      « 

1     With  respect  to' the  arrangements  b^low,  a  communication  was 

^>v  Imade  from  the'.steerage  to  the  fore  part  of  the  space  between  decks, 

<      uby  means  of  a  door  leading  ^rst  to  an  antechamber  screened  off  by 

canvas,  and  then,  to  a  space,  similarly  about  five  feet  square.    Into 

(this  last  the  mtfen  descended  immediately  from  the  deck:  and  thus 

passin^^  the  antechamber  into  the  dwelling  apartment,  they  were  not 

exposed  to  ai^  sudden  change  of  temperature^    In  this  way,  after 

first  ridding  themselves  of  snoW,  they  were  compelled  to  leave  all 

theiMresses,  which  might  still  contain  snow  or  moisture,  in  the  first 

'"  ^'*'°"»  o*"  ^'^^'"''^•'^J  t'^ence  adviincing  into  the  canvas  apartment, 

pmich  further  %erved  as  a  guard  to  prevent  the  entrance  of  the  cold 

external  air  into  the  steerage,  their,  dwelling  place. 

During  the  day,  including  the  Space  between  six  in  the  moriiing  ' 

,    and  nine  at  night,  the  steam  kitchen  was  found  sufficient  both  for' 

warmth  and  cooking;  and,  in  the  night,  the  baking  oven  served  the 

same  purposcf  while  it  also  heated  the  sand  for  the  morning's  use. 

As  it  is  a  pernicious  plan,  being  a  very  clumsy  and  inconvenient  qne, 

even  in  the  domestic  arrangements  of  England,  to  supply,  from  the 

doors,  the  air  required  for  the  fires,  I  caused  a  large  copper  pipe  to 

^    be  brought  from  without  to  the  fireplace.    Thus,  not  only  was  the 

external  air  prevented  from  making  a  cold  "draught"  through  the 

room,  but  the  pipe  itself  became  sufficiently  warmed  to  assist  in 

'  keeping  dry  the  air  within  this  printipal  apartment.         . 

By  these  means  the  vapour  was  enablett  more  easily  to  ascend  and 
settle  in  the  external  condensers,  instead  of  becoming  water  in  the 
room  itself;  while,  what  was  not  less  important,  the  fires  were  kept 
burning  with  a  uniform  .degree  ^f  strength.  In  proof  of  the  effect 
of  the  utility  of  the'condfcrtsers,  I  may  now  remark  that  it  was  our 
practice  to  cjear  them  out  every  Saturday,  and  that  the  quantity  of  < 
ice  they  contained  averaged  about  a  bushel  a  day:  the  representa- 


.»j.   ;''. 


~v^ 


.■■*¥• 


•...,\ 

_*_„ 


■*  ^    Mi 


kf*« 


m^ 


.TO  THE  AHCnc  RBGIOWS.  4 


123 


tive  of  a  quantityjof  vApour  firsthand  of  a  corresponding  proportion 
of  vvatcr  afterwards,  fliat  would  not  only  have  been  extremely  an- 
noying but  truly  pernicious.         ,»  I 

In  continuation  of  our  wintering  system,  every  atom  of  rigging 
was  taken  down,  cleaned,  marked,  and  stowed  away.  In  arranging 
the  duties  %nd  the  victualling  of  the  m?n,  the  following  plait  was 
^doptedr^e  whole  crew  being  divided  into  five  watches.  The  three 
leading,  mates,  the  engineer,  and  the  har{N)oner,had>  each;  with  one 
seaman,  the  charge  of  the  deck  in  their  respective  turns:  their  duty 
b^ing,  to  keep  a  look  out  respecting  fire,  wild  animals,  and  nhtivcs, 
to  register  the  direction  and  strength  of  the  wind;  with  the  appear- 
ances of  the  sky  and  weather,  and  the  temperaturef  asWll  as  the 
state  of  the  tides  and  the  occurrence  of  auroras.  The  officers,  with 
their  servants,  the  carpenters,  the  armourers,  and  the  cook,  had  siUv 
ticient,  other  duties  in  their  respectii'e  departments.  "^ 

The  breakfast,  of  which  the  hour  has  been  already  menAioned. 
•consisted  <if  coqoa  or  tea;  and  the  dinner  was  at  aoon.  Wfi*  the 
weather  permitted  any  thing  to  be  done  outside  of  the  ship,  the  men' 
worked,  after  that  meal,  till  three  or  four  o'clock:  while,  when  that 
was  impossible,  they -were  obliged  to  walk  for  a  certain  number  of 
hours  on  deck,  beneath  the  roof.  Their  tea  was  at  five  o'clock;  and, 
after  this,  they  attended  an  evening  school,  commencing  at  six,  and 
lasting  till  nin6;  which  being  closed,  and  the  hammocks  slung,  thev 
retired  to  l^ed  at  ten.  f     .  -  «"  .     ^ 


■=Q> 


^^ 


3,  anc 
i/T 


On  Sunday,  no  work  was  allowed.  /The  men  were  mustered,  and 
inspected  in  their  best  clothes,  by  ten  o'clock,  after  which  there 
\Jere  prayers  and  a  sermon.  To  occupy  the  remainder  of  the  day, 
there  was  a  collection  of  tracts  which  had  been  presented  to  us  by 
•ft '  *'^"®'"^y'  ?^  BJackheath,  proving  a  judicious  as  well  as  a  useful 
gift.  But,  at  SIX  there  was  a  Sunday  school:  the  occupation  on  this 
evening  being  the  reading  of  portions  of  scripture  by  the  men,  while 
the  day  was  concluded  by  psalms  and  by  the  lessons  appointed  in  the 
liturgy.  Of  the  good  •fleet  of  this  system  of  religioipa  duties  and  ' ' 
instruction,  I  could  entertain  no^j^t;  for  the  men  #>med  trulv  « 
feel  that  they  all  bel^ged  to  on^$MikA|ily:  evincing  triutual  kindness 
with  a  regularity  and  tranquUlity  of  behaviour  which  are  not  verV 
general  on  board  of  a  ship.  «^  • 


t 


?hl  r  V)^  K®'.^"  ^^"-^^  ^^^^'^  «F"'W^*^'"*'i"g  Sundays:  S» 
these  regulations  having  regard  to  th^TcouSral  uses  we^nlb  de- 
rive from  the  heat  necessary  for  those  pjirp^.  the  alio  JPe  of 
prov.8K>ns  to  the  men  anrUe^  officers.^'ssS^for  Iburteen  days,  is ' 


'Jt- 


seen  in  the  following  table. 


t  it  was  our 


»   ■^w 


-Hfe-- 


■T 


— —    f^' 


;.<, .'...-.„«<«»**■• 


=5=^ 


'  ^-' 


^*' 


%r«    •< 


*i   M 

fa 

^^H 

-     aj 

•  9 

T 

'fl 

su 

fl 

If 

's 

tl 

4i    ^'  n 

1    P< 

T   a 

I    th 

t    st 

\ 


;.!*  •/%    Besides  this,  viflejgar  was  seirved  as  it  was  required;  but,  mote 

•  "  '  f  >rarely,  preserved  soups,  as  it^as  thought  best  to  reserve  them  for 

'  .the  coldest  weather,  or  for  ^artibular  occasious.     There  were  also' 

^'    lemotis  and  Jtamarftids  for  those  who'  might  be  unwell. 

^*    .  *rhis  portion  of  the  sWp's  ^ty  appei-tMocd  to  Mr.  Thom>  who 

'  ^  *       bad.  a'Iso.the  charge  of  the  1<^,  as  master  not  'less  than  putver;  to- 

•  .'^getber  Vith  that  of  the  ba|[ome|er.  And  its  attached  thermometer. 

>  ^l^h?  chronometers  weri^  now  under  the  charge  of  ComiDiander  Ross; 

^ '  whp  also  took  a  joint  duty  with  myself  in  the  navigation  and  tlie 

^^    "  different  classes  of  obseryation:  \i^th  the  further  undivided  command 

"^M     over  the  department  of  natural  lustory. 


>     .< 


TO  THB.  ARCTIC  RllOlOirSi 


■#'        126 


•      ,4 


.    \ 


CHAPTER  XIV. 


.  \ 


The  month  commences  sto^y  and  cold^Improvement  in  its  prpgresg-^ 

'   Bemarks  (^Ke  thermometer  and  barometer--^Occltirrence  of  a  spleridid 

aurora  borealis — Summary  tf  the  month.  ib;  V     . 

JVot>.  1st.  The  most  severe  rtorm  that  we  hid  yet  experienced 
came  on  this  day;  bursting  suddenly' from  the  north,  with  a  heavy 
fall  of  sQow,  and  the  thermometer  under  zera  Sunday,  was  spent 
as  usual,  except  that  it  was  impossible  to  iake  exercise  on  shore. 
There  was  an  auro/a  at  night,  but  not>brilliaQt.  ^i^.  The  gale  then 
subsided,  and  was  followed  bv  a  finerday:  when,  alUiough  th6  tem- 
perature was  at  minus  14°,  the  cold  was  by  no  means  disagreeable. 
Though  the  distant  horizon  was  not  very  clear,  we  could  see  that 
the  ice  was  partially  broken  up  by  the  st(^ij#8ome  clear  water  ap- 
pearing in  the  south-eastdrn  quarter!  Ip.  the  evening  of  this  day 
the  wind  came  to  the  westward,  and  there  was  another  aurora,  of 
short  duration. 

Sd.  There  was  no  material  change  of  wind  or  weather-  this  day, 
the  thermometer  being  at  minus  0°.  We  found  trdces  of  foxes  dur- 
ing our  walk  on  shore.  More  was  done  towaf^  complieting  our  snow 
fortification;  and  I  ^lie^  jnost  readers  now  know,  that  the  frozen, 
snowis  cut'  into  masses  fesembling  ^qoared  stones,  and  applied  in 
the  samb  manner,  as  the  cement  is  formed  of  water.  On  the  fourth, 
there  was  snow  again,  during  the  whole  day:  the  thermometer  rose 
to  zert^  falling  again,  in  the  night,  to  minus  10".  We  had  now 
ceased  to  take  the  shellfish  for  some  days. 

5th.  The  morning  was  fine,  and  as  is  then  unusuaK  the  tempera- 
ture got  up  to  minus  1°.  f^m^l^vr  partridges  were  tilled.  On 
the  following  MW^m^^M^^^  the  northward,  but  not 
so  cold  as  toJ|)>e1irflti  iSecdNuy^rk.  An  examination  of  the 
condenses  pftfed  that  they  OoH^t^  JiUntly,  a  bushel  of  ice  in  the 
day,  as  Iiidticed  in  the  summai^  of  last  m(ttth  to  be  thf  expected 
quantity.«ind  we  could  n^t  but  be  highly  pm^d  at  reflecting  that 
had  it  not  been  for  the  collectioQ  »iid  c^nd^tion  ^thh  miM»- 

p  should  have  been  ^urflKres  the  condemiers,  and  been  involved  in 

(pour  and  internal^rain,  to  an  equivalent  iimount,  lA  the  twentjk 

£ ——. ■   JtkU  * . ■  W. i^ — . 1    ... 


1 


lPf 


.   { 


-I*. 


r  ~. 


1»   ^. 


1^ 


'^'V 


»* 


Ti 

n 


12G 


SEOOITD  VOYAOE  OF  DISOOVERt 


,'J 


four  houre.  It  is  alw^s  desirable  to  be  relieved  froin  sufllering;  but 
it  is  infinitely  more  gratifying,  when  we  know  that  we  have  been 
benefited  by  the|exertion  of  our  own  invention  and  industry.  These 
are  among  the  ttuij^  rewards  of  exertion,  in  all  the  circumstances  of 
life;  and  the  self  congratulation  which  follows  is  more  t^n  pardon- 
able. "■ 

7th.  In  spite  of  a  brisk  wind  from  the  northrcast,  with  much  drift 
snow,  our  officers  contrived  to  kill  two  ptarmigans;  but  notwith- 
standing such  a  breeze  from  this  quarter,  the  thermometer  rose  to 
plus  3°.  I  must  confess  that  these  vacillations  in  the  heat  were  not 
always  intelligible;  we  knew,  generally,  what  a  peculiar  wihd 
ought  to  produce,  why  an  overcast  sky  should  raise  the  tempera- 
ture, or  a  fall  of  snow  make  the  air  contparatively  warm,  and  why 
also  >ye  ought  to  expect  the  severest  cold  with  a  clear  sky.  But 
all  our  causes  sometimes  failed  us;  and  I  can^  only  now  conclude,  as  . 
I  #d  then,  that  our  knovrledge  of  the  iitmosphere  and  its  Conditions 
is  a^  yet  not  sufficient  to  explain  even  the  changes  of  temperature; 
^ingus^asit  does,  in' every  thing  else.  When  we  attempt  to  lay 
dowcTtfaose  general  rules,  without  the  certainty  of  whieh,  there  u 
do  sound  knovtrledge.  ^^      V 

Not  is  this  less  true  true  of  whathas  B(een  deemed  most  certaib, 
namely,  the  changes  in  the  barometer;  at^d  if  what  we  had"  occa- 
,  sioh  at  different  times  to  observte,  be  at  present  inexplicable,  I  can 
only  remind  my  philosophical  readers,  that  it  has  often,  and  amply, 
been  confirmed,  by  the  reports  of  La  Perousi^  and  the  experience  of 
navigators  beyond  number.  The  mercury  b^s  risen  when  it  should 
have  fallen;  and  it  has  sunk  when  ther^waA  present  every  reason 
that  has  been  a^ned  for  its  rise.  It  has  Hillen  with  winds  from 
the  east  and  the  north;  and  also  (for  this  has\been  a  reason  given 
for  its  rise)  with  winds  from  the  land;  while-  itWs  risen  un^  the 
reverse  circumstances,  being  the  received  pne$  for  its  falL^Thus 
has  a  low  barometer  brought  fair  weather,  an^  a  high  one  rain; 
while  I  have  also  seen  it  fall,  with  an  east  win^,  bringing  Violent 
rain,  when  on^  comine  round  to  the  west,  the  ^ercury  rose,  even 
more  than  half  an  inch,  T^ithin  a  very  short  time,  i^nd  with  fine  and 
settled  weather.  In  a  nautical  view,  these  must  ini^eed  be  consider- 
ed as  exceptions:  I  should  be  very  sorry,  among  ^thers,  ^ere  not 
this  instrument  still  of  much  use  on  board  of  ships,  especially  in 
those  seas  and  those  seasons'in  which  sudden  and  viol|ent  gale^  arise: 
but  if  its  prognostics  are  not  absolute,  and  not  therej^ore  su€h\  as  to 
be  an  excuse  for  inattention  to  other  circumstances,  or  for  the  amis- 
sion of  constant  watchfulness  at  sea,  so  miist  it  be  recollected,  that, 
in  phikraophy,  such  exceptions  prove  our  ignorance  o(  laws  which 
we  pretend  to  know.  It4s  a  ally  maxim,  as  it  is  d  faltie  one,Vpopu- 
farly  rooted  as,  it  is,  that  tBfe  exception  proves  the  rule;  ihe  slighteilC 
exerti(m,of  common  sense  should  show,  that  nothing  csin  be  a  law 
in  philosophy  if  it  admits  but  of  one  exception.  \        * 


-^--^ 


m^ 


:,r  %■ 


TO  THE  ABCTIO  REaiONS.  127 

,S(X.  On  the  preceding  evening,  the  wind  blew  hard  from  the 
north-west;  but  the,,  morning  of^nday  was  beautiful  with  a  bril- 
liant  sky  without  a  cloud.  Di^qe\ervice  was  performed,  and  the 
exercise  on  shore  was  enforced  as  oh^ibrmer  occasions:  this  being 
intended  as  k  standing  order  for  every  Su^ay  on  which  it  might  be 
practicable.  All  were  well,  except  the  aVo^r^r,  whose  constitu- 
v(Jidh  could  Mt  Ipear  the  climate;  He  ought  not,  indeed,  to  have  been 
mim  us;  hftring  been  destined  for  our  consort,  the  John,  as  the  ar- 
mourer of  that  s^ip  was  intended  for  the  Victory.  Unluckily,  that 
man  was  one  of  those  who  joined  the  mutineers;  aqd  though  I  had 
intended  to  send  th^  present  ailing  and  feeble  person  home  by  the 
first  whaler  that  we  should  meet,  not  one  had  fallen  in  our  way.     : 

9th.  The  fine  weather  continued,  with  the  thermometer  at  biiinus 
'°j'  .^  ^oo*'"!  Par^y  had  no  success;  seeing  merely  some  hares, 
and  the  track  of  a  bear.  On  the  next  day  the  same  party  wps  soon 
driven  m,  by  the  thermometer  falling  to  minus  20°,  though  the 
weather  continued  fine.  At  night'^it  was  22°  minus;  "being  tl^  low- 
est  yet  experienced.  In  the  middle  of  the  next  day  it  came  to  blow. 
.  and,  in  the  evening,  abundance  of  snow  fell;  both  the  force  of  the 
gale  and  the  quantity  of  snow  mcr^asing  till  midnight.  Tkus  we 
were  prevented  from  getting  efime  occultations  by  the  moon,  in  Tau- 
rus, on  which  we  had  calculated,  and  for  which  we  bad  made  pre- 
paration. '  "^ 

12/A.  After  blowing  with  increased  fury,  the  galogbecame  some- 
what  more  moderate  towards  evening.  It  is  worthy  of  remark,  that 
the  range  of  the  thermometer,  in  the  last  thirty-six  hours,  was  48° 
If  the  ice  was  at  all  broken  up  by  this  gale,  it  was  a  Matter  whicli 
*  ^e  had  no  means  of  discovering,  as  there  were  now  but  three  hours 
of  daylight.  But  it  was  likely;  for  the  wind  coming  from  the  north- 
cast  to  the  south-east  in  the  evening,  there  was  an  unusual  high  tide, 
and  the  ice  near  us  burst  open  with  a  tremendous  noise,  admitting 
the  water  above  it.  The  thermometer  at  midnight  was  asTich  m 
26°  plus.  *• 

mh.  The  temperature  did  not  begin  tofall  till  afternoon  on  this  day. 
and  then  very  gradually.  This  was  a  long  duration  of  what  may  be 
caHed  a  high  heat  at  thi|  season  of  the  year;  since  it  had  been  above 
fuL.^l'  *°?  ^'^°"*  eighlien  hours:  but  the  more  remarkable  fact  is. 
th&t  there^^a  north-eibterly  wind  all  the  time:  confirming  the 
observations  I  hafe  just  made  respecting  the  obscure  causes  by  which 
temperature  is  regulated.  According  to  general  experience  in  these 
regions,  the  cold  ought  to  have  been  severe.  As  to  the  thermome- 
-   trical  observations  themselves,  there  can  be  no  doubt  of  their  accu- 

TI'J^^"'!*,'*®?  ^^if®  "^^®  P°  "'^o'^e'  remote  from  the  influence 
|Ot  th^Jhip,  while  tli|d|rtruments  wer6  the  same  that  had  been  used 
on  former  e^pediUgWlt  was  almost  amusing  to  find  the  sportsmen    , 
complaining  of  tri^t;"  and,  with  the  snow  that  fell,  there  was 
le  ram.         •  y^       ,  / ' 


M 


^v 


y 


t 


i»  ,■■ 


M 


128 


SECOND  VOYAOfi  OJP  DI8C0V£RY 


kT' 


■  ( 


■  -A 


^  14/A.  Though  oUr8M|yil»;l«sUhout  any  success,  the  position  of 
the  sun  /<>-<lay.  at^lHnillpV  the  arr,«Kvhen  on  the  hill  we 
bad  so  often  vijggHyBHP^o^e  extensive  view  of  the  distant 
land  than  I  haffimpppmiSlned;  displaying  a  range  of  mountains 
more  remot^flP^those  which  we  had  yet  seen.    The  colouring  was 
admirable  thiPiay,  as  it  had  been  for  a  sliort  period  in  thrf  afternoon 
before.    U  was  not  only  that  the  clouds  and  the  sky  in  the  south 
presented  all  (hose  rich  summer  tints  of  evening  which  are  occa- 
sionally seen  in  our  own  countr|^||||Mbpes  contrasted  by  the 
deep,  aark,  calm  purple  of  thdlHfKmTo^on^'ifat,  i»  addition 
to  th^  aenal  tmts  and  reflections  of  thfe  snow  of  the  mountains, 
enmfetiAg  or  exceeding  those  on  the  cfduds,  the  hills  near  the  sun 
'""^^en  splendid  with  prismatic  colours,  as  it  passed  along  them 
lurse.    In  reality,  the  noon-day  sun  of  these  regions  is  an" 
sunj  and  it  is  not  suprising,  therefore,  that  iis  whole  diur-  . 
^ress  exhibits  but  the  appearances  of  a' similar  sun  iii  our  own 
^^tfes.    I  h^d  reason  to  believe,  from  the  colour  of  the  sky,  that 
^re  was  some  open  sea  to  the  northward:  ^nd  we  could  distiifctly 
...fi^eone  clearspacebfabout  a  mile  in  diameter,  not  a  very,  great 
,  way  from  uf^ogether  with  some  smaller  pools,  the  effects  of  the  late 
;;'  storm,  ,         " 

,       15/A.  Th&vreather  continued  calm^'and  not  cold;  since  the  tWr- 
mdmeter  did  not  fall  lower  than  1",  and  rose  gs  high  as  8°.    AS» 
little  snow  fell:  but  on  shores  the  valleys  and  ravines  were  already 
ouite  filled,  aip^he  far  larger  part  of  the  hilk  and  of  the  other  ground 
lS%eneral  wasc^red;  only  a  solitary  black  rock  appearing  here  and 
'  Jh^re,  wherever  Wfe  gale  had  acted  with  most  violence.    Traces  of 
^oxes^and  hares  were  now?  seen  every  day,  by  the  parties  on  shore: 
But  that  was  »ll.    l6/A.  The  S«|day  was  spent  as  usual.    The  8U# 
had  not  been  seen  yesterday|«Mi^either  sun  nor  mooft  was  visible 
this  day:  the  weather  was  nearly  as  oiild.    I^tKe  night,  however*; 
..  It  fell  to  minus^f  ,|||  cooked  neM^  the  san^  on  thU  day. 
.    On  Monday,  theWentedRh  of  Nl^mber,  a  very  singular  ap. 
pearancftof  the  sun  bccurCed,  with  an  effect  too  iiicredible  and  ab- 
surd  to  admit  of  rejfresentationr  splendid  as  it  was  to  thfe  eye.    The 
«=SB*7A^'^,^'^f'»«W^^«d»>Wl^^  sur- 

.  reHndediy  a  belt,  undefv  which  Ihe /s^^hot  out  hTsuch  a^mannar' 
I  as  to  give  it  the  semhlance  of  ja  atar'of  th^^n  og -the  il^h,  J& 
|.tbere  was  any  one  on  board»who  imagirti(prat*liis  appearancelta* 
j^iBous  of  that,  or  any -other  kMOhthoc?,  .to  ^ny  of  us,  the  secret 
Was  kept;  fortunately  for  the  pfflBti^or,  v?ho  might  have  lost 

^'L   TM^  *'''[*""5  *8^  fa"»<^»<>?P>e#hough,  by  a -very  singular 
c«il|-cjgaie,  it  hsBs  befin  {rccompJli<||sd  on  the  very  day  that  the  cor- 


Hlfectioft  of  this  sheet,  jn  passing  though  the  press,  enables  me  to  add 
frits  fulftlment.  *  .  .  '^y 

Kf         18iA.  It  w«  still  mild;  bat  from' the  force  of  the  wind,  there  waa 
^    enough  drift,  on  the  Jiills,  to  prevent  shooting:  the  thermometer 


.^ 


'^fS^        t    I  i 


i^i 


» 


?^ ;    t6  toe  arotio  rboiovi. 


190 


reached  plus  r*  at  midnight  19/A.  Qur  school  wai  completely  or- 
ganizedvfor  instruction  in  reading,  writing,  arithmetic,  matbematici, 
and  navigation;  and  the  men  being  divided  into  classes,  the  neces- 
sary materials  and  books  were  distributed.  Out  of  the  eighteen, 
three  had  not  learned  to  read  and  write;  but  the  want  of  arithme- 
tic was  very  ^nerah  the^hree  mates  w^cre  capable  of  commencing 
1«ith  astronomy  and  navigation.  No  compulsion  was  here  neces- 
sary; all  were  volanteers;  and  the  school  hours  always  terminated 
by  reading  two  chapters  from  the  bible,  together  with  the  evening 
psalms. 

20tk.  There  bad  been  neither  sun,  nnoon,  nor  stars  to  be  sedR 
hese  two  last  days,  and  the  weather  still  continued  gloomv,  with 
Jittle  wind  and  less  sqow.    The  thermometer  reached  9^  and  ave- 
raged fi**  during  the  twenty.four  hours.    A  white  hare  was  shot. 
1  he  roilowing  morning  was  equally  All  and  dark,  with  occasioiMl 
«ow;  tfaoi^  the  moon  made  her  appearance,  once  or  twice,  farm. 
r'Si***"'^  ^^"^    ^*  midnight  the  temperiture  fell  to  minus  l**.    A 
fenftle  fox  was  taken  in  the  trap  to-day,  and  was  bfought  on  board 
for  the  purpose  of  behig  tamed.    A  very  faint  aurora  was  seen  in 
the  south-eastern  horieoo. 
32iiA  Sunday  wa|  calm  and  ftlear,  with  the  thermometer  as  low  i^ 
hus  r,    Jo  the  oAprse  of  their  walk  after  service,  the  men  found 
tracks  of  reiitaedr,  but  nothing  more.    On  Monday,  the  thermo- 
kr  centmued  tktliag  tiU  it  reached  minus  16°.    Intending  to  pur- 
-  tracks^  yesterday*^  reindeer.  Commander  Aoss  proceeded 
i;tain  distance  along  shore,  and  thus  found,  for  the  first  time. 
||>tttli-we8t  poitttnof  the  nearest  land  Was  insulated  from  tie 
T  «  ^llpel  leadhig  to  the  westward»  but  without  being  aUe 
«i»  apoertam^^ihr  it  penetrated.    The  wind  shifted  to  theMud»- 
-^rard;  and  tll|pei|,fettnd  work  itk  «Ktricating  the  engine  faoiicn, 
which,  being  on  the  fee,  had  been  pt^-tially  buried  in  a  new  kyer 
formed  bj  the  breaking  Hirough  of  the  water  a  few  days  before. 

84tA*  An  overcast  sl^  Cadsed  the  thermometer  to  rue  a  few  de> 
^^  u?'^'  the  change  was4>nly  temporary.  There  wa»  enough 
imk-k  «ftr  the  day,  in  cutting  out  the  viarieus  ironWorkoT  the  engi 
as  well  as  the  whale  beat,  wMth  Was  in  the«ame  predicanMnt 
cahw  on  the  island,  intended  as  a  guide  to  the  ship  for  those 
might  kise  their  way*  was  otMnpleted;  and  a  thermometer  constru 
purposely  for  us,  was  ited  on  it  T%ere  was  a  brilKaDt  aurora  to 
SC  "^5"''*^  ***♦***"?  »*"  ««l  waiance  as  far  as  the  zenith. 
The  Wind  viiSiHiited  on  die  IblleWiag  day,  and  there  was  a  ftlH 
morebriUiantoMiB  the  evening,  iacrea#g  in  splendour  tiU  mid- 
•ifeht,  and  persuing  till  the  following  morning.  It  constituted  a 
jrirtt  nrch,  the  extremities  of  which  wemed  to  rest  on  two  opposed 
biHs,  while  Its  coloar  wak  that  of  the  full  moon,  and  Itself  seemed 
Aot  lea  iuAnnous;  though  the  dafk  and  «omewhat  blue  «ky  by 


mafat 


t^ 


_•_'? 


■h'i 


.  \ 


J 


0 


^p^ 


lao 


Ska 

m 


SBOOirp  VOTAGB  OF  MiOOVIilllr 


m 


t)l^v 


which  it  was  backed,  was  a  thief  cause/ 1  have  no  dottbtf  of  the 
splendour  of  its  effect 

We  can  conjecture  what  the  appearance  of  Saturn's  ring  must 
be  to  the  inhnbitants  of  that  planet;  but  here  the'tfbtvjecture  was  per- 
haps verified;  so  exactly  was  the  form  and  light  of  this  arch  what 
we  must  conceive  of  that  splendid  plaUetary  appendage  when  seen 
crossing  the  Saturnian  heavens.  It  varied,  however*  at  length,  so 
much  as  to  affect  this  fancied  resemblance;  Vet  with  an  increase  Of 
brilliancy  and  interest.  While  the  ma88,or*density,of  the  luminous 
matter  was  such  as  to  obscure  the  constellation  Taurus,  it  pro^ 
ceeded  to  send  forth  rays  in  groups,  forming  such  angular  pointr  as 
are  represented  in  the  stars  of  jewellery^  and  illuminating  theobjectt 
on  land  by  their  coruscations.  Two  bright  nebuls,  of  the  same- 
matter,  afterwards  appeared  beneath  the  arch, pending  forth  nmi- 
lar  rays,  and  forming  a  still  stronger  contrast  with  the  dark  sky  near 
the  horizon.  About  one  o'clock  it  began  to  break  up  into  fragments 
and  nebulae;  the  coruscations  becoming  more  frequent  and  irregular 
until  it  suddenly  vanished  at  four. 

27th.  It  being  noW  the  spring  tides,  the  water  flowed  through  the 
fire-hole,  as  it  is  termed,  (being  an  aperture  made  for  procuring 
water  in  case  of  the  occurrence  of  fire  on  board,)  ttbd  covered  the  ice 
near  the  ship  in  such  a  manner,  that  we  were  obliged  to  oiake  a  fresh 
'embahkment  round  it,  to  prevent  thil  inconvenience.  The  ther- 
mometer fell,  in  the  evening,  toninvaSn",  and  yet  the  air  did  not 
feel  very  cold.  According  to  our  latitude,  the  sun  should  have 
disappieared  for^the  winter,  y^terday;  but,  unluckily,  for  the  last 
three  days,  there  was  a  cloudy  horizon  which  prevented  us  from 
seeing  it.  It  was  not,  indeed,  certain  that  wenught  not  see  it  once 
or  twice  more,  from  the  effect  of  refraction.  The  twenty«e^;hth 
was,  however,  no  clearer  than  the  preceding  days,  but  the  thermo- 
meter rose  to  SI**,  minus.  > 

29th.  It  fell  again  however  to  27^,  and  the  cloudy  horizon,  at 
noon  once  more  prevented  a  sight  of  the  sun.  30/A.  Every  thine 
proceeded  as  was  usual  on  Sundays.  Monday  was  the  clearest  ana 
the  calmest  day  we  had  experienced  during  the  month,  but  it  was  also' 
very  cold,  the  thermoineter  falling  to  minus  37%  and  thus  far  outdmng 
whatever  we  had  yet  felt.  Once  more,  the  meridian,  or  the  rising 
and  setting  sun  as  it  may  be  called,  was  obscured  by  a  cloud;  so  perr 
fectly,  from  the  ship,  that  no  s^ht  of  it  could  be  obtained' aboye  the 
fog  bank  which  lined  the  horizon.  But  one  or  two  glimpses  of  it 
were  procured  from  the  higher  part  of  the  island,  whence,  at  noon, 
it  was  just  able  t6  cl^r  that  low  cloud,  for  an  instant  or  two. 

Thus  closied  the  month  of  Novipmber,  and>  as  we  caljtulisited,  with 
the  last  sight  of  the  sun  which  We  were  tilpely  tojtiaVe  this  winter. 
It  wasjtill  pletisin|  fo  find  that  it  wai  a  beautifnl  day,  in  spitn  <^ 
the  aaual  cold,  which  was  really  hy  iMtiqeans  Msvere  to  tl»6'ieelinga. 

We  had  reason  tf^  believe, ihat  the  ptamdplMjrerenow  quitting  t&s 

v\"    ■    .  ..  i>  „  ^iiy. 

■         .  -^-^.  


"W 


.J' 


f 


■ff 


TO  TRS  AIICTlcr  RDGIOIIS. 


cobst,  and  n^gratibg  to  the  Muthwnrd,  with  the  intention  of  follow- 
ing the  sun  in  its  course.  Comparing  now  the  mean  temperature  of ' 
this  month  with  that  which  had  occurred  in  preceding  expeditions, 
we  found  no  reason  to  expect  a  more  severe  winter  than  i»  usual  in 
these  climates,  notwithstanding  the  appearance  of  severity  at  the 
commencement,  and  the  venr  low  temperature  on  the  last  days. 

It  was  also  now  diijcoverable,  that  the  highest  temperatures  had  . 
been  with  the  north-easterly  winds,  and  the  lowest  with  the  southerly 
ones:  being  the  exact  reverse  of  what  was  to  be  expected,  and  of 
what  had  occurred  in  former  voyages.  The  only  euilanation  that 
we  could  suggest,  whether  right  or  wrong,  was,  that  there  was  open 
water  to  the  northward,  and  that  the  whole  southern  quarter  was  a 
mass  of  ice,  whether  on  land  or  at  sea;  in  either  of  which  cases,  the 
prospect  of  future  progress  in  this  direction  was  far  from  flattering. 

The  weather  was  such  all  this  month  as  to  deprive  us  of  the  power 
of  making  any  observations  on  the  occultations  of  stars  by  the  moon, 
aft  well  as  all  others,  of  whatever  nature:  and  the  men  were  too 
much  occupied  with  more  indispensable  duties  to  admit  of  our  erect- 
ing observatories  for  magnetic  and  astronomicBl  observations  on  shore. 
It  was  nKMt  satisfactory,  however,  to  find,  that  the  effects  we  had 
intended  by  all  these  arrangements  had  been  attained.  The  system 
of  comfort  and  economy  which  had  been  planned  was  as  perfect  as 
could  be  desired;  and  the  satisfaction  of  the  men,  with  these  things, 
with  each  other,  and  with  their  facers,  could  not  have  been  greater. 
Under  their  system  of  education*  they  had  improved  with  surprising 
rapidity;  while  it  was  easy  to  perceive  a  decidedxhange  for  the  bet- 
ter in  their  moral  and  religious  characters;  even,  as  I  have  reason  to 
believe,  to  that  Vhich  is  always  rendered  difficult  from  long  habits, 
the  abolition  of  swearing. 


i 


/ 


/ 


■"i  J 


♦  .  '  5 1  vK 


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i 


las 


SBpOVD  VOYAGE  OF  DISOOVBRY 


-\ 


^t 


^1 


CHAPTER 'XV, 


'W   ,        *» 


t 

u* 


'.T'j  ....  ■ •  .-  •  r. 

J 'Repeated  octumnce  of  aurora  borealiai^Christmas  day — Summary  of 
\  ihe  month-^Remarks  ai  ^  termination  <f  the^uear  tB29.  ' 

Dec.  l«t  Wssaw  the  uppe.rJimb  of  thecfiun  to-dky,  for  a  short 
'^       time,  from  the  island;  the  atmosphere  being  unusually  cVgiir.  It  was  ^ 
*  :     elevated  about  two  minuted  of  a  degree.    This  was  the  r^ult  of  re- 
1    fraction;  since  its  astronomical  disappearance  had  occurred  six  days  . 

aga    We  were  now  also  bjjt  three  weeks  from  the  shortest  day:  tp 
^  ^  that,  nfUh  the  'same  drcumstant^es  at  its  next'lH^pg,  we  jlioula  iiot : 
be  condemned  Id  more  than  six  weeks  of  its  total  absencti.    We  obr  * 
Gained  the  altitudes  of  several  stars.    The  thermometer  stood /rodl 
"31°  to  370  minus:  the  balometer  at  SO  inches. 

2fl(/.  A  blfick.ck>ud  io  the  soutltem  horizon  wou}d Juve  preveHl 
the  mxi  from  being  seeih  lbougb~»  had  still  risen  abjme  that  line  as 
:  it  did,  th^  day  before.  >The^ii^etic  observatory  was  erected,  q,n.d 
'        .thcitf  her  one  commence^    •MrAIi^idB^bt  there;  was  a  magnificent 

'    apch  oran  aurora,  but  it  was' only  five  degrees  high.    The  colour  > 
^  '■ '    w{i8  a  light  y)^low;  and  it'eGhiMed  rqVs;  family  bribaking  up  apd  dis-      1 
.    '^'appearipg  aboHt  one  o'cloclii^  4<A;  The  day  was  calin,'and  the  sky 
cj^ftr,  bul  with  A  cloudy  horizon.    The  .thermometer  rose  to  minus 
t     10**,  and  bii  the  foll^mg.  day  to-14°:  with  light 'clouds  above  and 

deep  red  q^^es  near  the  p&age  of  the  sttn.    .We  aow  colnpared  4he    * 
°.  .  rnelcarial  and  the  spirit  thermometers;  qs  we  might  sdbn  be  called 
^^    on  to  dependon  the  lattenklohe;  and  the  netessary  corrections  were 
,.     Accorded  ibr  adoption.    7"      ,-  1  .  : 

.    ^   ^5(A.  A  strong  ^nd  rmd^red  this  morning  very  cold.  But  the  wind  ,^^. 
shifting  m>m  the  norDyeast  to  the  south-west,  it,  fell  four  degrees  * 
lower^eonfirminiLtfieremarks  already  made  <H^^  fitlu  kw^'^f 

.    ermine  cti^e  onJDoard,Hiuite 'Starved,  and  was  tajcen  and  fed  by  the  -^ 
'      crew..   Svnday  was  very  stofnay  find  «qHal}ytwith  snow*  lind  the 
\;      thermometer  began  to-nse  when  the  wind  fell.  «'The  day«|^as  kept 
as  usual.    A  straig  breeze  nlew  all  Monday,  till  the  evening,,  wheii 
•     it  becan^ved^te  and  clear;  the  thermometer  falling  from  Ininus 
.    12°  to'  !B^^|ff  he^moon  was  claar,  for  the  first  time  during  a  conside- 
^    .  rable  per)Wn>ut  as  it  passed'over  no  stars,  Jt  gaye  us^ae  of  the 
^°^^  Observatiofls  that  we  wished. 


:-  vi 


•J- 


TO  THB  ABCTIO  aKOIONS. 


189 


/ 


^ 


•  8/&.  The  calm  wenther  was 'succeeded  by  a  breeze  from  the  Mrth*)' 
east,  and  the  thefmometer  ro6e«|o  minus  16°.    On  th€  foUowuig*day 
there  were  light  winds  and  hazy  weather.    The  observatory  beiqg 
finished,  we  obtained  some  occultations  of  stars  by  Ihe  moon;    The 
temperatur(B  fell  to  26°  minus  in  the  evening,  and  there  was  an  in« 
.  significant  aurora.    On  the  tenth  th^rewfS  a  hab^  rolind  the  moon, ; 
<  sending  out  rays  ix>  a  great  distance  in  the  form  Qi  a  cross.    This  was  . 
repeated  bn^  th^  following  day;  and  the  thermometer  during  tl^ 
three  days  ranged  between  minus  16°  aiid  S7°.  A  traMt  of  iMclel>a- 
nm  was  obtained.  ..  ... 

1  \ih*  There  was  little  tonote-this  day:  tfie  temperature  and  weather 

having  little  changed,  and  the  men's  employment^  remaining^  at  . 

^  •  i|suaL    The  following  w^s  spent  in  the  usual  manner  'fixed  for  Sun- 

;day.    It  is  remarkable,  that  through  the  Jasit  week,'  the  state  of  the 

^    vt^eather  allowed  the  fire^  to  he  discontinued  for  ei^t  hours  every 

*  night;  without  lowering  the  heat  between  decks  bejrond  th.e  -degc^ 

which  had  been  Ifixed  on  as  the  best^Oh  the  following  daju'MpndaV*  - 

the  thermometer  was  geneiiklly  at  muius  13°;  and  we  wfte^agam 

annoyed  by  the  water  overflowing  the  ice.    The  weather  was  hazy, 

iapd  mild  to  the  feelings,  both  on  this  day  and  the  following  mornitog; 

on  which  there  was  ^  lai^e  halo  round  the  moon.    Btat  the  wind  rose, 

so  that  it  becan^  so  cold  as  to  prevent  the  men  from  working  on  the 

ice,  while  the  thermometer  sunk  also  to  minus  24°.      ,y  ' ;, 

V  *    16/A.  The  same  wind,  with  an  equally  low  tempj^rHtufC^  continued 

to  impede  all  out  of  door  work;  but,' on  the  17th,  the  westerly  wind 

i^came  rdtand  to  the  east,  and  it  was  then  fd)bwed  by  a  grea^  increale 

Af  Mid,  wMil  th^heiimoineter  at-  lepgth  fc;ll  to  37°  minus.  .  At  this 

^^    poinl  (he  nr(br^uj(jiirfroze,  whether  from  being  all<^ed,  or*from  the 

i|^  instrument  having  been  ill  gradu^^ed,  we  had  no  means  of  ascertain- 

thongli,  the  ibrljiier  yV||l|torODable,  as  some  other  cfuicksilver 

we  had  on  boaVd  did  im  freeze.    There  Was^anoth4r^eauti- 

a  thiiday.    The  ice  round  the  ship  Was  much  r^nt  by  the 

t>not  so  as  to  allow  the  \vater  to  overflow.  *   ' 

IfilA.. There  had  been  a  phort  calm,  which  was  succeeded  by; 

apoth^r  easterly  breeze;  and  the  thermometer  then  rose  to  minus 

28°.    Clouds  obscured  the  aurora  of  yi^terday,  tnligh  it  was  stiU 

l^tially  yisible,  as  if  occupying  the  whole  e^ac^rom  efti$|:  to  west 

pn'the  10th  the  thermometer' wen|  on  rising  till  it  reached  17°;  but 

it  was  &r  colder,  as  there  was  a  sn^art  breeze  uttti|  affWnoon,  whea 

it  becam€k/:alm  and  pleasant    There  wks  nosucce^  in  shooting:  Ml 

anima^  sauned  to  have  nearly  desertedVhis  part,  of  the  coast.    Qu^ 

carpeoteirSein|  a  musician,  I  oiig^t  already  to  hi^yesaid  that  ^ 

men  ^ere  perimttearto  dance  on  the  iSaturday  nights;  holidays  ^ 

this  nattire  having  always  been  found  acceptable,  and  advantageoiil^ 

while  it  was  aim,  nece^rily,  a  scho6l  hoUdqir.       '^  . 

20<A.  The  aurorsk Jtill  continued;  and,  in  want  of<otber  variety,  it 
a^nted  us  amusemenVamid  this  wes&isinne  uniformity.  There  was 

^  *¥     ■ :  ■■■•     '.  ',    ,  -..' 


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I 


'/' 


/ 


184 


SECOND  VOTAGE  Or  OISOOVERT 


mucb  snow  drift,  and  thei  wind 'rendered  it  so  cold  tiiat  we  could  flttt 
expose  ourselves  in  any  nvunner  beyond  a  few  minutes;  the  ther- 
mometer being  at  minus  20°.  ^fter  the  aurora  had  ceased,  it  re- 
commenced at  night  in  a  more  <^rilliant'  form,  with  bright  flashes 
amid  its  other  varieties,  disappearing  a  little  after  midnight.  The 
clearness  of  the  sky  over  head  was  such,  that  we  coiild  see  per- 

'  fectly  well  in  the  cabin  at  midday, -even  through  the  double  sky- 
light, though  it  was  covered  by  snow.  Outside  the  ship,  the  smallest 
print  couldfbe  read  distinctly.  Sunday  Was  occupied  in  the^nsual 
raafiner,.  ^  J'\'^' 

2ist.  The  weather  continued  bright;  an^  though  the  wind  changed 
from  the  north-west  to  the  north-east,  it  became  calrt.  The  air  felt 
mild,  as  is  generally  the  case  in  those  circumstances;  the  thermo- 
meter being  at  minus  16°*  The  horizon  was  so  clear  that  every 
thing  on  it  was  visible;  and  thus  we  saw  all  around,  more  perfectly 
than  ever,  all  the  land  that  we  l»ad  seen  at  several  times  before. 
On  the  next  da^  it  was  the  same,  and  we  obtained,  from  the  hills 
above,  a  complete  view  of  the  horizon,  particularly  to  the  south- 
ward: where  the  colouring  of  the,  sky  was  most  various  and  splen- 
did; being  a  fitter  subject  of  painting  than  of  description,  if  it  was 
indeed  within  the  limits- of  art.  Much  of  the  snow  was  blown  away 
from  the  summit  of  the  hills,  so  as  to  leave  the  brown  and  bare  rocks 
visible.        . 

23fl.  The  morning  commenced  with  an  overcast  sky  and  a  breeze, 
but  it  soon  became  calm,  and  was  followed  by  an  aurora  of  short 
dtjiration.   The  same  weather  continued  the  next  day,  and  the  clear- 

«ne88  of  the  sky  allowed  us  to  see  stars  of  the  first  magnitude  during 
the  brightest  part  of  the  twenty-four  hotirs,  including,  of  course,  the 
hour  of  noon.*  Venus  was  also  seep  in  the  southern  quarter,  dis- 
playing a  bright  golden  colour.  There  was  again  an  aurora:  another 
to  add  to  a  succession  of  these  appearances  more  regular  and  dura- 
ble than  any  which  had  been  experienced  in  the  former  voyage  te^ 
this  climate.  /^ 

85/A.  It  was  Christmas  day.  Thei'e  are  few  places  on  the  civil- 
ized earth  in  which  that  day  is  not,  perhaps,  the  most  noted  of  the 
yearf  to  all,  it  is  at  least  a  holiday;  and  there  are  many  to  whom  it 
is  somewhat  more.  The  elements  themselves  seemed  to  have  ^eter- 
minedJthat  it  should  be  a  noted  day  to  us,  for  it  commenced  With  .a 
most  beautiful  and  splendid  aurora,  occupying  the  whole ^ault  atove. 
At  first,' and  for  many  hours,  it  displayeid  a  succession  of  arches,  fpeS 
dually  increasing  jn  altitude  as  they  advanced  from  the  east  and 
proceeded  toward^  the  western  side  <jf  the  horizon;  wiMi  the  sue- 

-cession  of  changes  were  nob  less  brilliant' than  any  that  We  had  toti' 
merly  witnessed.    The  church  service  allotted  for  this  peculiar  day 
was  adopted;  but,,as  is^he  etiquette  of  the  naval  service,  the  hdi-  . 
dfty  was  also  kept  by  an  Ainusually  liberal  dinner,  of  which,  roait 
beef  from  our  Galloway  ox,  not  yet  expended,  formed  the  «Mentiai 


J,. 


>.•■;•,■,.■.  - 


*  ■*■ 


*^ 


•'— K- 


r      < 


TO  THB  ARCTIC  RiiGIONS. 


186 


■"'.N 


atid  orthodox  pdmoti.  I  need  not  say  that  the  rule  against  gr<^  wias 
rescinded  for  Ihis^day,  since,  without  that,  it  would  not  have  been 
the  holiday  expected  by  aie«;seaman.  The  stores  of  the  Fury  rendered 
us,  liere,  e^en  piore  than  the  reasonable  ser^e  we  might  ha've' ^ 
clainried;  since  they  included  minced  pies,  and,  what  Would  have 
been  more  appropriate  elsewhere,  though  abundantly  natural ^here, 
iced  cherry  brandy  with  its  fruit;  matters,  however,^  amusement, 
when  we  recollected  that  we  were  rioting  in  the  luxwies  of  a  hot 
London  June,  without  the  heat  of  a  ball  in  Grosvcnor  Square  tagive' 
fhem  value,  and  really  without  any  especial  desire  .fpr  sweetmeats 
of  80  cooling  ajFtature.  I  believe  that  it  was  a  happy  day  for  all  the 
crew:  and  happy  days  had  a  moral  value  with  us,  little  suspected 
by  those  whose  lives,  of  uniformity,  and  of  uniform  ease,  peace,  and 
luxury,  one  or  all,  render  them  as  insensible  to  those  hard-won  eh- 
joyments,  as  unobservant  of  their  effects  on  the  minds  of  mgn.  To 
display- all  our  flags  (as  shown  in  the  engraving)  was  a  niatter  of 
course;  and  the  brilliaiicy  of  Venus,  was  a  spectacle  which  was  Da« 
turaily  contemp}ate,d  as  in  harmony  with  the  rest  of  the  day.        / 

26lh.  Christmas  day  was  followed  by  a,c)ilm  and  clear  morning, 
with  the  thermometer  ranging  from  minus  18°  to  22°.  A  few  ob- 
servations by  the  transit  instrument  were  takert,  and  there  was  ano- 
ther aurora.  This  continued  till  eight  on  the  following  morning,  and 
the  thermometer  sank  to  minus  32°.  Being  Sunday,  no  work  was 
doile.  There  was  little  change,  and  nothing  new,  on  the  following 
day;  except  that  the  temperature  rose  several  degrees.  f^iOn  the 
twenty-ninth,  it  went  down  as  low  a^  37?^  minus,  so  that  the  sua^ 
pected  mercury  froze  again;  but,  beii%  calmP weatj^,  the  cold  \fy» 
not  felt  to  be  very  severe.  ^f^t  |f  ,  " '* 

30/A.  On  this  day  we  saw  one  hare,  havingstien  tivo  yesterday; 
so  that  all  the  animals  had  not  disappeared,  ^here  was  very  good 
light  during  the  day,  from  ten  till  half  after  three;  and,  in  ^he  Course 
9fit,  the  temperature  rose  to  minus  20°.  There  was  also  a  faiiit 
aurora;  and  some  transits  of  stars  were  observed.  Oni^e  following 
dbrning  the  sky  was  pvercast;  but  the  weather  fellAmildi  atvd.the, 
thermometer  rose  12°.  We  found,  on  shore,  the  footpiflitsof  i|'wdC 
yrhicb  seemed  to  be  travelling  northward^  Jba'ying  passed  the  shifm 
no  great  distance.  Our  chase  of  it  ended  in  tracking  it  two  miles, 
whep  vie  lost  its  trace^.  4 

Thus  ended  the  i^onth  of  December,  and  the  year  1829.  The 
temperature  had  .maintained,  like  the  preceding  one,  wj^ere  the  , 
genera]  results  are  tahulated,  a  medium  rdtio  among  those  appe^v 
taining  to  the  former  voyages  in  the  ^ame  month.  Uncertain  tis 
temperature  here,  as  elsewhere,  in|wt  be,' vvhen  examined  undeF  •; 
short  fsriqffs,  uncertain  as  even  the^  monthly  ineans  should  be,  in 
different  years,  when  we  know  how  tke  general  characters  of  those 
years  difier,  it  is  a  repjarkabk  circiiiMfaQc6.  that  the  nn^iis  of  all 
the  latitudes  and  longitodes  oT  MelviHe  island,*  Igloohf,  WJDter  , 


> » 
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SECOND  VOYAGES  OF  DISCOVERY 


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island,  and  Port  Bowen,  give  nearly  the  actual  situation  of  the  Vic- 
torjat  Felix  Harbour,  while  the  temperature  there  ajpo  agrees 
with  the  mean  temperature  of  these  j^r  positions;  indicanng  tBere> 
by  a  griadUal  relation  of  temperatuf^which  is  at  variance  with  at 
popular  theory  on  that  subject. 

The  observatory,  I  must  now  fennark,  wm  built  drt  a  inach  better 
plan  than,^that  of  foraier  years.  Being  larger,  as  well  as  moire  cotti- 
Inodbus,  the  breath  of  the  observers  was  not  so  ready  to  condense  oil 
the  instruments.  Our  transit  instrument  was  also  on  a  muSbh  larger 
ibate,  being'Hr  thirty-six  inches;  while  its  position  had  been  perfect-  . 
ly  verified  by  observations  on  circumpola'r  start.  With  irespecl, 
however,  to  observations,  in  general,  it  had  not  been  a  fortunate 
inonthi.  ^nring  its  northern  declination,  the  moon  had  been  alwayi 
obscured  by  clouds,  and  thus  disabled  us  from  obtaining  the  ustial 
lunar  distances.  We  had  still  to  hope  that  January  would  be  more 
filvourable,  as  we  were  in  an  excellent  state  of  preparation  for  the 
ii^bservations  that  we  were  desirouts'  of  making..  On  the  aurora 
borealn  which  we  had  so  oftiM  seen,  nft'experiments  could  be  made, 
from  the  state  of  the  weather  aitd  the  force  of  the  winds  at  those 
times.  \  *  * 

I  do  hot  ber<e  note  the  state  of  the  barometer;  as  I  hal^  seldom 
also  mentioned  it  in  the  joiiirnal.  It  is  a' fitter  subject  for  an  appen- 
dix apd  a  table;  where  the  whole  can  be  seen  together,  on  a  nthpte 
inspection,  and  where  it  can  also  be  coptipared  with  the  temp<n>a- 
tureA,  the  winds,  and  the  weather,  at  the  same  time:  circuinstances 
to  which  these  observations  owe  the  better  part  "of  their  value.. 
With  these  it  will  be  found  In  approximation,  in  the  tables  on  this 
sUbjjBct.  I  need  only  herib  say,  thtit  this  instrument  was  regularly 
registered  four  times  in  the  twenty-four  hours;  being,  with  some 
others,  that  which, was  used  in  former  voyages,  and  furnished  by 
the^  liberality  %»f  the  Admiraltvi  The  magnetic  arrangemfents  foN 
nisbed  nothing  worthy  .of  record'  * 

In  the  crew,  it  was  highly  (|{itl8(actory  to  find  that  not  the  slightest 
accident  had  occurred  from  tftit  frost;  as,  with  eqikil  care^  we  hoped 
to  aVoid  them  in  future;  ^h(ni|^qttite  awar^hat  all  care  was  so^ie- 
times  unavailing,  since  the  tReire  turning  of  an  angle  after  a  progitess 
through  an  inol^nsive  temperature,  might  instantaneodiriy  eXplose 
us  to  an  unforeseen  blast,  to  some  partial  or  casual  carrent  ctf*.  ai)r, 
wit^  an  efl^ct  so  sudden  as  to  be  uuavoidablei  while  the  mifierer 
hinoMelf  is  th«  only  one  who  does  not  know  what  has  happiened,  and, 
if  alone^  mav  therefore  be  irremediably  froikieii<  With  this  general 
good  state  of  health,  it  was  (Sinful  to  fee  that  the  poor  ariiiourer 
Was  approaching  to  his^nd;  being,  however,  ^ually  conscious  of  the 
inevitable  event,  and  prepar^ed  to*meet  whatiie  bad  for  some  time 
expected.  But  it  was  a  desfiny  thbt  he  ooidd  hot  long  hay^  pro- 
tracted, thoueli  he  had  remained  at  bonier  pmd  vk  had  noTeason  to 
think  that  it  had  been  accelerated  kfWPinfage  or  the  climate* 


) 


I . 


<*%*>. 


* » 


n 


".-v^- 


>T''  ■    1".. 


■^ 


■». 


"»', 


TO  THE  ABCTlCJBf^lO0. 


■■> 


137 


V  'The  trial  of^anotbe;  month  continued  to  satisfy  ti#  6ftthe^'|(goda»ar 
of  our  internal  arrangement^  nothing  ^^d  foiled,  jiiid,tlxej?«rvjas 
nothing  to  alter.  We  .wejre  eBpeciailp  pnased  with  the  success  ojT 
the  apparatus  for  condensing  the  vapour  from  within:  the  prin'cip^C^ 
of  which/it  is  evident,  is  similar  to  tiiat  of  the  condenieir  in"  Watt^Sv 
engine,  difierent  as  the  circumstances  are.  The  proof  of  its  e$ca.Qy« 
h^  ^cen  ample:  but  I  must  now  n6te,  in  correction laf  (he  tirst 
.  statement  respectiiSg  the  quantity  of  ice  collected  weekly  in  the 
tjitreo  condensers,  that  it;'ws(3  subject  to  csnsiderable  variations.  I ' 
originally  stated  it  atabout  a  bushel  in  the  day,  for  the  whole:  . 
that  being  the  result  of  our  first  trials,  before  we  had  fully  regu- 
lated the  production  and  the  average  of  the  4ieat  between  decks. 
But  in  th(^.  course  of*  these'  ^ttieifipts  at  discovering  and  maintaining 
the  best  temperature,  i^  was  found  to  vacillate;  the  produce  l^ing, 
in  some  weeks  scarcely  four  bushels:  while  we  easily  ascferlained 
that  the  quantity  increased  with  augmentation^of  the  internal*heat,- 
aiid  Vemarkably  so  on  the  days  when  the  wasKed^  linen  was  dried;  as 
a  little  consideration  will  show  to  have  been  a  necessary  consequence. 
'  Iti  this  incase  of  the  heat  theiije  was  no  advantage;  and  as  the  tern'* 
peraturV  first  adopted  was  found  unnecessarily  high  for  comfort  or 
use,  it  was  reduced  to  an  average  of  45°,  while  the'  ice  then  pror 
duced  weekly,*  amounted  to  a  mean  of  four  bu^els  or  less.  ^  ' 
/  It  is  not  all,  .that  the  men  were  thus  made  corafortaible,  and  the 
interior,  with  its  various  materials,  kept  dry.  Allnecessky  for  placing 
stoves  in  the  hold  and  in  j^mote  corners  ceased;  an^ppivhiletbei^ 
was  thus  a  great  saving  qr  labour  and  inconvenighce,  and  not  im- 
probably of  hazard,  the  consumption  of  fuel  was  materially  dimi- 
nished. Eveiy  one  knows  that  those  points  had  engaged  the  atten- 
tion of  all  the  former  navigator  in  these  climates;  and  it  was, 
therefore,  also  a  source  of  self-gn^|ation,  that  we  had  been  the 
first  to  succeed,  and  ^that  too  by  n^^ans  as.  simple  and  little  expen- 
sive as  they  .were  r^dly  philosophical?  That  I  here  point  out  this 
expedient,  in  luture,  to  ships,  in  general,  navigating  the  northern 
seas,  on  whatever  pursuit,  would  be  to  little  purpose,  were  it  not  as 
easy  of  adoptio^  as  it  is  intelligible,  without  any  further  description 
than 'the  genera^  one  already  given.        'jf-  ' 

The  school  Wd  continued  to  engage^the  men's  affections;  and 
their  continued  inkp|^ovement  both  in  knowledge  and  in  religious  and 
moral  feelings,  \Mis  e>ident'^  It  would  have  been  valuable,  even 
thpugl^t  had  found  no  more"  than  an  occupation: '  and,  in  some 
ntahneif^or  other,  we  contrived  to  be  always  occupied.  The  pursuit 
of  game  was  indeed  an  unproductive;  one,  but  it  was  still  exercise, 
and  it  was  variety;  wlyle  we  amused  ourselves  with  hope,  in  defect 
of  hares:  often  traced,  seldom  seen,  and  so  seldom  shot,  that  our 
sporting  book  was  nearly  a  blank.  In  some  manner  or  other,  how- 
ever, the  last  three  months,  constituting  the  whole  period  of  dur 
18    '    \  .   »\-  » 


-/■ 


/" 


.o'i. 


,%^   .,^ 


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V"1»s  ^^ -•*"««*' 


4> 


138 


SECOND  VOYAGE  OF  DISOOVERY 


l^ 


f 


'  V* 


durance  up  ta  this  point,  had  passed  away*  without  weariness^  and 
had  indeed  been  almost  unfelt;  while,  I  may  add,  that  we  had  been 
under  no  necessity  of  inventing  any  idle  amusements  for  the  pur- 
pose of  kilting  time.  Those  among  the  men  who  were  ambitious, 
thought,  I  believe,  that  it  had  paued  too  quickly;  since  t^y  fore- 
saw that  the  duties  of  the  summer  davs  would  retader  it  necessair 
to  interrjppt  the  school,  before  they  had  made  the  progress  of  which 
th|^  were  so  desirous. 
'^'*he  retrospect  of  the  past  year  presented  a  mixed  picture  of  good 

^^nd  6vll:  as  if,  indeed,  this  is  not  the  history  of  human  life  at  large. 

^fThe  expedition  itself  was  at  one  time  a  thing  almost  beyond  hope; 
it  had  b£en  fitted  and  despatched  by  the  spirited  and  l^ral  ''Lon- 
don ^merchant,"  v«tiMe]name  can  never  be  forgotteii.  Unexpected, 
and  a,fterwards  unavoidable  and  incorrigible  misarrangements,  had 
vexed  J  detained,  and  disappointed  us,  had  filled  the  despondent  With 
fears  and  foreboding,  and  "had  not  left  evea  th^  more  confi^^t 
without  anxiety.  Xet  the  end  was  far  better  .thiin  we  bad  hoped: 
it  was  better  than  any  one  Could  have  expected;  sincf  w&had  out- 
stripped in  distance  our  predecessors  through  the  sSine  strait,  not- 
withstanding all  the  advantages,  in  time  and  in  all  eW,'  whicji  they 
iad  possessed  oyer  us.  We  had  been  in  frequent  and  imnunent  peril, 
and  had  been  rescued:  yet  not  by  efforts  of  our  own:  and  thus  we 
hoped  for  the  future  protection  which  we  should  still  more  labour 
to  deserve,  if,  thus  far'  too,  we  had  pursued  the  "chimera  of  a 
north-west  panage,"  d^jtjbi^s  been  termed,  there  were  hopes  before 
U8,jf  followii^g  it  ou|^to  a  much  further  result;  of  ascertaining,  at 

Jast,  this  unknown^rtion  of  the  American  geography,  which,  I- 

*  presume,  has  been  Jong  ^le  limit  of  the  hopes  of  all  sensible  men 
on  this  subject.  We  were  in  an  advanced  position,  with  a  new 
summer  about  to  givci  its  earliest  notices  in  no  long  time;  and  when 
the  period  should  come  to  sHus  free,  every  new  step  would  be  a 
new  discovery.  ¥ 

If  our  reflections  also  turncAto  England,  it  was  not  to  regret  an 
idle  promise  that  we  might  possibly  return  by  the  new  year;  but  we 
\vere  disappointed  that  we  had  found  no  means  of  sending  an  account 

•  of  ourselves  since  our  departure  from  the  Danish  settlement  at  Hol- 
steinborg,  in  July.  We  had  met  no  whalers;  but,  considering  what 
our  course  and  the  season  had  been,  these  ships  could  easily  inform 
our  friends,  that  not  to  havie  met  with  us  was  no  reason  for  doubting 
of  our  security;  while  all  knew  that  we  were  provided  with  a  winter 
home,  with  all  indeed  that  our  own  homes  could  have  furnished,  in 
the  wreckund  the  stores  of  the  Fury. 


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TO  THK  ARCTIC  REGIOITS, 


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g|»2|3?|6|a  g|oH8g?|*||8  gl=;h||«s2|sr 


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SECOND  VOYAGE  OP  DlSOOVfiftY 


CHAPTER  XVI. 


Commenc^meniofthe  year  \BSQ-~First  meeting  tdth  the  Esquimaux  on 
this  coa4-Description  of  their  village,  and  of  their  society  and  man^ 
ners~-ll^  are  entertained  m  hoard—Communicate  some  geoeraphi- 
cat  inforfkiation,  and  promise  more.  o    o    r 

§  *     ■     ■ 

Jan.  1««  1830.  The  new  year  commenced  with  serene  and  beauti- 
l«oTnr*^'''r'"*** ''  "y*'  '""*''  ^''^"g^  ^^^  thermometer  was  at  minus 
♦•?  '.  .K^  afterwards  to  22°.  The  meridian  sky  displayed  the  beau- 
ta»l  ttfits  of  a  summer  evening,  but  of  a  charac^  differeat  from 
any  tHmgoccurrtngjn  more  southerp  ch-feates;  the  distant  Tiills  on 
the  horizon  being  of  a  nearly  scarlet  hue,  while  a  glowing  purple 
sky  above,  gradually  darkened  into  a  shade  deeper  tTian  an  analo- 
gous twilight  would  produce  in  England.  This  second  holiday  of  the 
Christmas  season  was  celebrated  by  the  same  indulgences  to  the  men; 

Th^^rri  "  K  '•'r!^'"''^'^*  *^**"'"'"*  ^"  ^^"t  *Se  ^"e  quality  ai 
their  ball;  each  of  them,  however,  being  »  very  just  and  harmonious 
proportion  to  our  apartments,  our  establishment,  and  9ur  climatej 
?nd- having^4heitrfore.the  tnerit  of  fitaess  at  least.  But  what  mat- 
i!I!^.™^^V'^^^*'P'^  "^^  make  the»elves  innocently  happy?  At 
hoifie,  It  is  probable,half  of  themwooy  have  been  intoi.cated;  that 
being  the  exclusive  r,»d  to  happiness  m  the  estimation  of  our  coun- 
trymen;  but  I  cannot  help  thinking,  with  Freissart.that  although  this. 
IS  the  usage  of  Britain,  it  is  to  enjoy  oareelves  "bien  tristement;" 
while  It  were  well  if  tbs  was  the  worst  i^esult 

2»rf.  Last  night  the  thermemeter  underwent  many  changes  within 
nhlA^""''  "^i^^u  "*  *"y  a,»arent  cause,  and  there  was  I  remark- 
fn  kI  fi  r"'??  the  moon.  On  catting  through  the  ice,  it  was  found 
to  be  6ve  feet  four  inches  thick,  giting  aa  increase  of  nearly  three 
feet  dqrmgthe  last  month  unless,  as  was  po«ible,  some  loose^p^^ 

Tli  X,  •^*!? '"  ^^f"  ^^^-t^^^  ^^  ^"^  ^'^«'  ^'"i  thc'-e  attached. 
WV^?^?  T^T^tlZ'^'t^  ^'^  S'*^y  **»t^^-  *nd  the  cow  was 
tltrS  •.  '  though  the  temperature  was  not  lower  than  19°.    The 

^met^fir^rS"  •^^^'^^'^  "^''"^  '^  temperature  being  the 
Sr^^s*  ;^Sf ^^"«--*«--»&*«  "^-    It  was  S«.day?aod 


•  * 


■.♦  t\ 


-Sff 


.  ».' 


:i^ 


H. 


8k]i 
..  be( 
wa 
the 
dre 
par 
pal 
eve 
Th 
at( 
har 
the 
eas 
sea 

0W( 

twi 
an<j 
the 
ing 
us  j 
wit 
tha 
cur 
faaf 
cat 
as^ 
seh 
mai 

1 
sky 
ren 
pici 
this 
sarr 
pro 
aur 
bril 
the 
tha 
the 

8 


lit 


^5 

'"^  Ji-"    ^./^'i 

" '. '     •        '•  ■• . 

J?        .          .   " 

-  -ai: 

low 

mat 

^ 

'flV 

' 

4n 

* 

,      i 

'  I .  '■!      * 

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"^ 

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« 


f  .-*: 

I- 

"- 

:.„ 

i'   --       v- 

-«r>~j^  ■ 

-^^= 

.^E.  __^"' 

" 

'r 

iiJ... 

TO  THE  ARCTIC  REGIOtrS.  '  141 

4  ''^/A.  There  was  some  snow  fl|B^hc,  southward,  with  an  overcast 
sky;  and  the  thermometer  ros^ro  minus  7°.  The  rocks  that  had 
been  laid  bare  were  once  more  covered,  so  that  all  the  landscape 
was  one  indiscriminate  surface  of  wbUe;  presenting,  together  with 
the  solid  and  craggy  sea,  all  equally  whitened  by  the  new  snow,  the 
dreariest  prospect  that  it  is  possible  to  conceive,  while  unaccom- 
panied by  a  single  pircumstanc^  of  the  picturesque,  or  any  thing  ca- 
pable of  exciting  the  smallest  interest.  Such  it  is  indeed,  almost 
every  where,  in  this  wretched  country,  and,  above  all,  in  winter. 
The  voyager  may  be  a  painter,  or  he, may  be  a  poet;  but  his  talents 
at  description  will  here  be  of  no  value  to  him;  unless  he  has  the 
hardihood  to  invent  what  there  is  not  to  see.  Whatever  may  be 
the  interest  attached  to  the  illustrations  adopted  in  this  work,  it  is*  , 
easy  at  least  to  perceive  that  they  owe  nothing  to  the  actual  land- 

r    scape;  to  a  nature  void  5f  every  thing  to  which  the  face  of  a  country 
owes  its  charms. 

5th.  We  thought  there  was  a  Visible  increase  of  the  meridian 
twilight  yesterday;  but  this  day  was  overcast  and  dark,  though  calm, 
and  therefore  mild;  the  average  temperature  being  minus,  8°,  and 
the  greatest  heat  minus  4°.  The  tliickqess  of  the  weather,  increas- 
ing in  the  evening,  turned  out  provoking;  but  (lid  not  finally  prevent 
us  from  getting  an  occultation  of^ldebaran  by  the  mbon,  tqget^ 

,^with  one  of  Capella,  and  some  others  of  importance.  _  It  happened 
rthat  the  hares  appeared  in  'numners  to-day,  and  one  was  ^otvS  cir- 


ig,  because,  in  the  former  expeditiopC  they 
»iate  in  the  season  as  January.    The  fabri- 


cumstance' worth  noticing 
had  never  beeii'  found  so 

cation  of  a  snow  stairqase,  with  a  wall>  found  ufsefiil  empli^ment 
as  well  as  amusement  for  the  men,  who  had  learnedJtfj)riae,  them- 
selves in  the  beauty  and  perfection  o(  their  icy  i^ph^ture  and 
masonry.  V  ,\  •  /      \  ,_^ 

The  wind  shifting  to  the  ndrtiiward,  .it  becdine  vftry  poraTbnt  the 
sky  was  brilliant  with  red  and  p  urple  tinis  in  great  variety.  6th.  A 
remeasurement  of  the  thickness  of  the  ice  confirmed  our  former  sus- 
picions; it  was  found  to  be  but^our  feet-and  a  half  thick;  but  even 
this.is  a  greater  thickness,  by  hAlf  a  foot,  than  had  been.ibund  at  the 
same  period  of  the  year  in  former  voyages,  while  the  cause_was, 
probably,  the  greater  shallowness  of  the  water.  Another  obscure 
aurora  made  its  appearance  in  the  aenith.  OniheT^following  day,  a 
brilliant  sky  at  ten  in  the  memioe  presented  an  entirely  dmv  aspect; 
the  space  above  the  setting  mooD  being  of  a  rich  goldjei^  colour,  and 
that  near  the  sun's  place  displaying  a  .hnght  sflvery  tiiiiiAiotb  i)<[  them 
the  reverse  of  what  is  the/Usual  rule  in  other  climat  JF* 

8th.  The  wind  increaied,  with  a  snow  drift;  but  a  fine  nigkt  al- 
lowed us  to  inake  many  useful  observations  on  transite  and  other 
matters.  The  sky  presented  the  same  colouring,  and  the  thermome- 
ter was  at  minus  26°.  Again,  mapy  of  the  rocks  on  the  hills,  were 
Cleared  of  their  snow  by  the  wind;;  and  the^Mwere  employed  i 


r 


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4i^ 


.juT 


142 


'in)  vovAQB  or  oi8cov£Rr 


IV'. 


tr 


M 


day  u  w^>  yesterday  in  bringing  gravel  to  the  Ice,  priflllltoi 
to  the  cutting  x)f  a  canal  whi^Ji  we  intended  for  the  exit  of  ouil 
when  the  time  sbould  arrivcv  '  M 

9th.  Going  m  shore,  this  morAing,  one  ofithe  seamen  informed  ihe 
that  strangers  were  seen  from  tjie  observatory.  I  proceeded  accord- 
ingly in  the  direction  pointed  out,  and  ^oon  saw  four  Esquimau:^ 
near  a  small  iceberg,  not  far  from  the  land,  and  about  a  mile  from 
the  ship.  They  retreated  behind  it  as  soon  as  they  perceived  me;  but 
as  I  approached,  the  whole  party  came-suddenly  out  oi^iJUfftt  shelter, 
forming  in  a  body  of  ten  in  front  and  three  deep,  with,  fine  man  d^ 
tached,  on  the  land  side,  who  was  apparently  sitting  in  a  sledge.  1 
therefore  sent  back  my  companion  for  Commander  Ross  to  join  m 
together  with  some  rtien,  who  were  directed  \o  keep  at  a  di8tan< 
behind  him.  Proceeditag  then  alone,  to  within  a  hundred  yari^,  ll 
found  that  each  vvas  armed  with  a  sjgeai  and  a  knife,  but  saw  # 
bows  and  arrows.  ^       ,  '      TV 

Kncjwing  that  the  word  of  salutation  between  meeting  tribes  wU 
tima  hma,  1  hailpd  them  in  their  own  language,  and  was  answerjed 
by  a  general  shout  of  the  same  kind;  the  detached  man  being  thpn 
called  in  front  of  their  line.    The  rest  of  my  party  now  coming  i 
we,  advanced  to  .within  sixty  yards,  and  then  threw  our  guns  aw; 


with  the  cry  of 
ed  it,  of  open' ' 
their  knives 
shout  aja 
withou|  \v 
'  vanced,  and 


^rima;  being  the  usual  method,  as  we  h^d  learn 

'  j-iendly  conimunicatioD.    On  this,  they  ihrjew 

i:s  into  the  air  in  eveir  dii^ction,  retju-ning  the 

Sing  their  arms  to  show  that  they  also  wfere 

Jut  as  they  did  not  quit  their  places,  we  iad- 

. , -wi^d  in  successioa  all  those  in  the  front  Ihe,  strbk- 

ing  down  their  dress  alsoj^iQd  receiving  from  them  in  return  ^his 
established  ceremony  of  friendship.  This  seemed  to  produce  grbat 
delight,  expressed,  on  all  hands,  by  laughing,  and  clamour,  and  strange 
'  gestures:  while  we  immediately  found  ourselves  established  in  th^ir 
unhesitating  confidence.  .' 

'    Commander  Rom's  experience  was  beie  of  great  use;  and,  being 
informed  that  we  were  Europeans  (Ka^lunas),  they  answered  that 
they  were  men  Innuit.    Their  numbers  amounted  to  thirty-one;" 
^    the  eldest,  called  Illicta,  being  si»ty.five  years  of  age,  dx  others  ; 
between  forty  and  fifty,  and  twenty  of  them  between  forty  and 
twenty;  the  numbier  being  made  up  by  four  boys.    Two.  were  la  Die,  ' 
^  and,  with  the  old  inan,  were  drawn  by  the  othel-s  on  sledges:  one  of 
them  having  lost  a  leg,  from  a  bear  as  we  uqderstood,  and  the  otjier 
having  a  broken  or  diseased  thigh.    They  were  all  well  dressed,  m 
€xcellent  deersftins  chiefljr;  the  upper  garments  double,  and  encif- 
«Jng  *he  body,  reaching,  in  front,  from  the  chin  to  the  middle  of 
the  thigh,  and  having.^  cape  behind  to  draw  over  the  head,  while 
the  skirt  hung  down  to  the  calf  of  the  leg,  in  a  peak  not  ui^e  ihat  » 
of  a  soldier's  coat  of  formet;  days.    The  sleeves  covered  the  fingers; 
jind,  of  the  two  dose  v^hich  composed  all  this,  the  inner  one  had  the 


/ 


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ID  tlUB  ARCTIC  RSQIONS. 


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hair'lnfixt  the  body,  and  the  outer  one  in  the  reVcrae  direction. 
They  had  two  pairs  of  boots  on,  with  the  hairy  side  of  both  turned 
inwaf-ds,  and  above  them,  trousers  of  deerskin,  reach^g  very  low 
on  the  leg;  while  some  of  them  had  shoes  outsidajC  thJliy)oota,and 
had  sealskins  instead  of  those  of.  deer,  in  tf  ' 

With  this  immense  -superstructure  of  ch 
larger  people  than  they  really  were, 
iookjpg  not' much  unlike  a  walking  stick, 
lyory  at  one  end,  and  a  point  of  horn  at  the  . 
w  ■  the  shafts,  however,  they  were  found  to  be  ft 

1  f  of  wood,'  or  of  the  bones  o^  animals,  joined  ti  ^ 

^  ■  The  knives  that  we  first  sa  w,  consisted  of  bone°or 

without  point  or  edge,  forming  a  very  inofiensive^ei  , 
soon  discovered  that  each  of  them  had,  hanging  at  his  back,  a  nnuch 
more  efiective  knife  pointed  with  iron,  and  some  also  edged  with 
that  metal  One  of  them  proved  also  to  be  formed  of  the  blade  of 
an  English  claspknife,  having,  the  maker's  mark  on  it,  which  had 
^   been  so  fixed  as  to  be  converted  into  a  dagger. 

This  was  a  proof  of  communication  with  the  tribes  that  trade 
with  Europeans,  if  that  was  not  the  case  with  themselves.    Com- 
mander Ross  did  not  indeed  recognise  among  them  any  of  his  for- 
mer apqiiaintances,  while  he  wa|  evidently  unknown  to  them;  but 
when  he  mentioned  the  names  of  places  in  Repulse  bay,  they  im- 
mediately understood  him  and  pointed  in  that  direction.    He  could 
also  make  out  that  they  had  come  from  th|  southward,  and  had 
seen  the  ship  the  day  before,  that  their  hutrf^ere  at  some  distance 
-to  the  northward,  and  that  they  had  left  them  only  in  the  morning. 
Having  no  foresight  of  these  visiters,  we^  had  of  course  no  pre- 
sents at  hand  for  them,  and  we4herefore  ^nt  a  man  back  to  the' 
ship  for  thirty-one  pieces  of  irdn  hoop,  that  there  might  be  a  gift 
fi)r  eac|hi  individual.    But  in  the.  mean  time,  they  consented  to  ac- 
company us  on  board,  and  we  soon  arrived  at  our  snow  wall.    At 
,  this  they  expressed  no  surprise;  it  \*as,  indeed,  too  much  like  their 
^own  work  to  excite  any:  nor  did  they  show  any  of  those  marks-of 
astonishment,  at  either  the  ship  itself  or  the  quantity  of  wood  and 
iron  before  them^  which  we  had  found  among  the  northern  savagea 
of  Baffin's  bay  in  1818;  .  It  was  evident  that  they  were  no  strangers  > 
to  even  an  abundacide  of  these  materials.  .  • 

The  present  of  the  iron  excited  universal  delight.    Tn  retura, 
\  J'^^y  offered  us  their  spears  and>nives;  which,  to  their  equal  aston- 
ishment an^/«ati8factlon,  we  nefHsed.    We  could  now  easily  see, that  • 
their  appearance  Mras  very  superior  to  bur  own;  being  at  least  as 
•   Well  clothedf^d  far  better  fed;  with  plump  cheeks  ,6f  as  rosya  colour 
•Jf  they  could  be  under  sodark^  skier.    Like  the  other  tribes  of 
'  Esquimaux,  their  goodnatu^ed-^faWs  were  of  a  regular  ovaK  the  . 
eves  dark  and  a|)prpaching-each  other,  the  note  small,  and  the  hair 
black:  nor  were  their  skins  of  so  dark  a  copper  tint  as  those  which  ' 


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23  WIST  MAIN  STRUT 

WfBSTRR,N.V.  I45M 

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nun  tiiii  'n»i*iilgitiii$fmmr 


i.iiiiji.mi,i:;.i>ii|Hl.rniiq 


144 


SECOND  VOTAGB  OF  DISCOVERY 


■k: 


^(ff 


A\ 


F:    ^ 


.-'^^" — 


I  had  formerly  seen  in  the  north.  They  seenied  a  cleaner  people 
too;  and,  what  I  hiad  not  seen  before,  their  hair  was  cui  short,  and 
arranged  in  no  careless  mannejt    r 

"Pieir  dresses  were  made  vmh^  peculiar  neatness;  and  some  were 
br^limented  with  fringes  madfe  of, sinews,  or  with'  strings  of  small 
bones.  The  skins  of  gluttons,!  ermines,  and  gray  seals,  hung  at  the 
breast,  seemed  also  to^e  ornaitental  appurtenances.  •  Their  sledges 
were  singularly  rude;  the  sidfcs  consisting  of  pieces  of  bone  tied 
round  and  einclosed  bv  a  skin,  dnd  the  cross  bars  on  the  top  being 
made  of  the  fore  legs  of  a  deenT 'One  of  them  Was  but  Jtwo  feet 
bng,  and  fourteen  inches  wide,  thkotltere  were  betwpen  three  and 
four  feet  in  length.  On  the  under  pth^ofNtlte  runner,  there  was  a 
coating  of  ice  attached  to  the  skin,  rendeHnTtheir  motion  very  easy. 

Three  of  the  men  were,  nfter  this»  intrddite<^  into  the  cabin, 
where,  at  length,  they  showed  abundant  signs  of^^mader.  The  en- 
gravings, representing  their  cduntrymen,  selected  ft^  the  several 
former  voyages, gave  themrgreat  delight, as  they  instan%recognised 
them  to  be  portraits  of  their  own  race.  The  looking::|^isses.  as 
usual,  were,  however,  the  chief  source  of  astonishment,  ^wcsi: 
cially,  was  a  sight  of  themselves  in  our  lai^est  mirror.  Scar^r, 
surprise  was  excited  by  the  lamp  and  the  candlesticks;  butCthi,, 
neVer'once  showed  a  desire  to  po^yess  themselves  of  any  thingKre- 
ceivii^,  merely,  what  was  offered,  with  signs  o^thankfulness  th^ 
could  not  be  mistaken.  They  did  not  reUsh  our  preserved  meat^ 
but  one  who  ate  a  morsel  seemed  to  do  it  as  a  matter  of  obedience, 
saying  it  was  very  good,  but  admitting,  on  being  cross  questioned  by 
Commander  Ross,  that  he  had  said  what  was  not  true;  on  which, 
all  the  rest,  on  receiving  permission,  threw  away  what  they  had 
taken.  But  the  same  man,  on  being  offered  some  oil,  drank  it  with 
much  satisfaction,  admitting  that  it  was  really  good.  Thus  admira- 
bly are  the  tastes  of  all  these  tribes  adapted  to  their  compulsory 
food,  and  their  views  of  happiniesa.  to  the  means  of  it  which  have 
been  provided;  nor,  assuredly,  had  these  men,  amidst  their  blubber 
and  their  ,oiI,  their  dirty  diet  and  villainous  smells,  any  reaison  to 
envy  the  refined  tables  of  the  south;  as  among  those,  they  woul^ 
not  only  have  experienced  disgust,  but  felt  pity  for  our  barbarism 
and  iggbrance;  while  if  they  had  been  induced"  to  partake,  it  could 
have  been  only  under  the  impulse  of  starvation. 

In  succession,  three  more  were  treated  in  the  same  manner,  while 
the  first  set  proceeded  to  amuse  the  rest  with  what  they  had  seen. 
A  short  race  was  also  run  between  one  of  them  and  an  officer  of  our 
party».but  with  so  much  and  such  equal  politeness  on  both  rides, 
that  there  was  no  victor  to  be  declared.  The\  violin  being  after- 
wards produced,  they  joined  our  men  in  dancin  5;  and  thus  «||^med, 
whether  it  was  the  fact  or  not,  to  have  a  muc  1  greater  relish  for 
music  than  had  generally  been  found  among  th^  other  tribes  by  our 
predecessors. 


■^!^ 


/    -       * 


ere  was  a 


TQ  Tif  B  Al^TIC  REGIONS. 


145 


It  being  now  necessary  t<  separate,  we  proposed  to  accompany 
them  part  of  the  way  to  t  leir  huts,  the  direction  of  which  they 
ppinted  out;  making  us  und  irst^nd  that  their  wives,  children,  dogs, 
and  sledges,  were  all  at  hone,  and  th^t  they  had  abundance  of  pro- 
visions. Puring  our  walk  \  'g^  met  a  seal  hole  on  tWe  ice,  and  they 
showed  lis  the  use  of  the  sp<  ar  in  enlarging  it  for  the  reception  of  a 
^wig  of  ash  or  birch,  togeth  sj^with  their  metM  of  throwing  that 
Weapon.  But  we  could  nol  make  out  by  such  inquiries,  what  was 
of  chief  importance  to  us,  oapiely,  the  direction  of  any  ppen  sea. 
They,  indeed,  jointed  to  the  jjort.h  arbeing  the  prace  in  question;  but 
•not  being  able  Ut  understand  from  them  what  lay  to  tj^e  southward 
and  westward,  wie  were  oblig  ed  to  defer  further  questions  to  another 
day.  Having  proceeded  abo  it  two  miles,  we  now  made  a  mark  on 
tho  ice  as  the  place  of  rendc  zvous  on  the  following  day,  when  they 
were  m^^  to  Understand  ths  t  we  should  visit  their  huts:  a  proposal 
wb'ich  was  received  with  the  highest  satisfaction.  We  parted  under 
the  same  ceremonies  which  h  id  attended  our  meeting.  ,  ^ 

This  was  a  most  satisfactor  f  day;  for  we  had  given  up  allwexpec- 
tations  of  meeting  inhabitants  in  thi»  place;  wfiile  we  knew  that  it 
was  to  the  natives  that  we  inilst  look  for  such  geographical  informa.  ■ 
tion  as  would  assist  us  in/extBicatine  ourselves  from  our  difficulties  . 
And  in  pursuing  our  co^se.  id  was  for  philosopherf  to  interest  them- 
lielves  in  speculating  oa  a  horde  so  s(nall,  and  so  secluded,  occupying 
/so  apparently  hopeless  a  country,  soi  barren,  so  wild,  and  so  repul- 
sive; and  yet  enjoyingth^t  most  perfect  vigour,  the  most  well-fed 
health,  and  all  else  that  here  donstitutes,  not  merely  wealth,  but  the 
opulence  of  lujuary;  since  thejj  were  as  atnply  furnished  with  pro- 
visions, as  "with  every  othdr  thfcg  that  cbuldXbe  necessary  to  their 
wants.    And  if  the  moralist  isliclined  to  speculate  on  the  nature 
ind  distribution  of  happiness  irithi^  world,  on  the  admirable  adap-* 
^ion  found,  hero  as  elsevvhere,  between  the  desires  and  the  means  of 
graH^iQation,  the  fious  one  willl  not  forget  the  Hand,  which,  under 
vthe  most  apparently  hopeless  tircumstances,  thus  spreadji^iir  His 
creatur^  a  table  in  the  wilderaess.  JV^  - 

\  10<A.  Jifter  divine  service,  which,  for  that  pift-pofie,  W|  hdd  un- 
usually eady,  we  proceeded  to  perform  our  promise,  though  the  ther- 
mometer hW  fallen  to  minus  37°.  We  found  the  natives  at  the 
appointed  piace,  and,  on  approaching,  one,  who  appeared  to  be  a 
leader  or  <^Qf,  came  a  hundred  Wards  in  advance,  holding  up  hi$ 

|)ons.    We  therefore  threw  away 

I  the  rettr,  threw  th^ir  warlike  in- 
done  before,  and,  with  the  usual 
The  number  was  now  increased . 


arms  \to  shdw  ^at  he  had  no  wei 
our  g<Uns|f  on  which  all  the  rest,  ii 
strumente  into  tl^  air,  as  they  had 

exclamations,  waited  our  approacL    , 

by  about  twenty  children,  and  welwent  through  the  usual /orms  ot 
salutatiotk  \  V 

,   The  village  aodbyppeared,  consisting  of  twelve  snow  huts,  erected 
at  the  boittom  of  a\little  bight  oii  the  shore,  about  two  miles  and 
19      ^ 


i: 


m 


V 


V 

t 

1. 


(' 


<'~4 


^MMteui?  '"t<jk  iwmS^A 


■1.  M 


;h 


^  ,^»iS^i-     #"-j",'! 


/        ' 


V^^ 


^V     f 


J- 

f  13 


146 

a  half  from  the 
and  were  plac 
.crooked  appen 
which  were  " 
were  soon 


SECONI^  VOYAGE  OF  DISCOVERT 


thi 
inV 


lip.  They  had  the  appearance  ot  inverted  basins, 
without  any  order;  each  of  them  having  a  long 
lage,  in  which  was  the  passage,  at  the  entrance  of 
women,  with  the  female  children  and  infants.  Wei" 
ted  to  visit  these,  for  whom  we  <had  prepared  pre- 
sents of  glass  beads  and  needji^  a  dbtribution  of  which  soon 
drove  away  the  timidity  whicWif^.^ad  displayed  at  our  first  ap- 
pearance.     /  ^     "»*'  t 

^  The  passage,  always  long,  and  generalljlcrooked,  led  to  the  prin- 
cipal apartment,  which  was  a  circular  dome,  bejpg  ten  feet  ih 
^diameter  w^en  intended  for  one  family,  and  an  oviai  of  fifteen  by 
teli  where  Jt  lodged  two.  Opposite  the  doorway  there  was  a  bank 
of  snow,  occupying  nearly  a  third  oTthe  breadth  of  the  area,  about 
two  feet  and  a  half  higfij  level  at  the  top,  and  covered  by  various 
skins;  forihing  the  general  bed  ttr  sleeping  place  for  the  wholp. 
At  the  end  of  this  sat  the  mistress  of  the  house,  opposite  to  the 
lamp,  which,  being  of  moss  and  oil^^as  is  the  universal  custom  in 
these  regions,  gave  a  sufficient  flame  to  supply  both  light  and  heat; 
so  that  the  apartment  was  perfectly  comfortable.  Over  the  lamp 
ivas  thejcookmg  dish  of  stone,  containing  the  flesh  of  deer'  and  of 
seals,  with  oil;  and  of  such  provision  tbere  seemed  no  want.  Every 
thiifg  ^e,  dresses,  implements,  as  weU  as  provisions,  lay  about  in 
unspeakable  confusion,  showing  that  order,  at  least,  was  not  in  the 
class  of  their  virtues. 

It  vrns  much  more  interesting  to  us  to  find,  that  among  this  disor- 
der, there  were  so^e  fresh  salmon;  since,  when  they  could  find  this 
fish,  we  were  sure  that  i(  would  also  furnish  usiw^ynpplies  which 
we  d>uld  not  too  much  multiply..  On  inquinJ^Btvere  inform-' 
ed  that  they  were  abiindant;  and  we  had,'«Hlfe,  the  pros- 
pect/of a  new  amusement,  as  well  as  of  aiVftluSble  market  at 
\the  mere  price  of  our/ labour.  They  now  offered  us,  in  return 
our  presents,  any  ihing  which  we  might  choose;  and  we  ac- 
c<M^gly  selected  some  spears,  and  some  bows  with  their  ar- 
rowsVtogether  with  Jin  ear  ornanHInt  of  iron  ore,  being  a  ball 
attached  to  a  strina  and  some  specimens  for  our  collection  of 
natural  liistory;  theTformer  object  being  rendered  more  orna- 
mental bVsome  fodea'  teeth  that  were  attached  to  it,  with  a 
fringe  6{  sinews  in  addition.  Some  more  needles,  which  we  now 
added  to  ourXformer  Hfts,  served  to  gain  their  unreserved  confidence 
and  fnendshipV        ^^    ^ 

J  Of 'these  hW  bililr  entirely  of  snow,  I  must  add,  that  they 

rere  all  lighted  by  a  lai^e  oval  piece  of  clear  ice,  fixed  about 

hUf  way  up  on^e  eastern  side  of  the  roof;  while  the  variations 

aong  the  different  ones  that  we  inspected,  were  trifling.     But 
^ealso  saw  afterwards,  what  had  escaped  us  before  where  wds 
S.  little   light  tb  discern  any  thing,  that  about  the  middle  ofj^ 
»ch  pMsage  wi^  al^  antechamber  leading  into  a  recess  for  tife 


V 


*»■ 


■f 


'*4HF**lf(W^Sf^^K^^iii^.'' 


/: 


■^"i»*  n      ^SiWtuHBav  4(r~ 


™™p««r  wnT?pVr*te*e 


\- 


TO  TBE  ARCTIC  REaiORS. 


147 


do^  It  was  obvious,  too,  that  the  external  aperture  could  be 
turned  at  any  time,  so  as  to  be  always  on  the  lee  side,  and  thus 
prevent  the  wind  from  entering.  We  found  that  these  huts 
bad  been  but  just  erected:  they  were  scarcely  a  day  old;  so  that 
the  architectural  processes  of  this  country  did  not  occupy  njuch 
time.  It  was  also  ascertained  that  their  winter  stock  of  seal  and , 
reindeer  was  buried  in  the  snow,  that  this  store  was  laid  u^  in  the 
summer,  and  that  they  returned  lo  it  in  the  winter.  Hitherto,  this 
practice  had  not  been  found  among  the  natives  of  these  countries; 
whether  overlooked  or  not,  we  could  not  decide. 

The  females  were  certainly  not  beautiful;  but  they  were,  at  least, 
not  inferior  to  their  husbands,  and  were  not  less  well  behaved.  All 
above  thirteen  years  of  age  seeme«l  to  be  married;  and  there  ap- 
peared three  or  four  such  in  every  house,  whether  belonging  to  one, 
establishment  or  not,  we  were  not  sure,  but  appearing  to  be  the 
young  wives  in  a  house  where  thet-e  was  one  old  one.  Their  stature 
was  short,  and  they  were  much  inferior  in  dress  and  neatness  to  the 
men;  their  hair  especially  being  in  a  matted  and  disordered  state. 
Their  features  mere  mild,  and  their  cheeks,  like  those  of  the  men, 
ruddy;  one  girl  of  thirteen  was  even  considered  to  have  a  pretty 
face.  All  were  tattooed  to  a  greater  or  less  extent,  chiefly  on  the 
brow,  and  on  each  side  of  the  mouth  and  chin;  this  ornaqynt  con- 
sisting in  lines  alone,  without  any  peculiar  figures,  apd  thus  conform- 
ing to  the  usages  of  t^  north-western  ^^uimaux  of  America,  as 
they  have  been  descrwfed  by  different  voyagers.  Their  drejjs  did 
not  differ  materially  in  form.from  that  of  the  ipim;  ex^p^  that  f"^- 
outer  garment  had  a  peak  before  as  well  as  behind,  wHpe  some.W( 
ornamented  with  fringes  of  shred  skins.  ^^ 

The  important  inquiries  were  now,  however,  to  be  madip;  aAd  the 
answers,  containing  mixed  gooi  and  evil  news,  were  of  the  following 
nature.  They  were  acquainted,  with  IglooUk,  Winter  island,  and 
Repulse  bay,  and  had  left  Ackoolee,  a  station  opposite  to  tlie  latter, 
only  thirteen  days  before;  hi^ving  con^e  to  this  place  to  be  nearer  to 
the  open  water,  which  they  informed  us  lay  at  some  distance  to  the 
nsrthward.  They  said  that  tbe  land  to'  the  eaitwalrd  was  an  island 
named  Kajaktagavik,  ana  that  they  had  come  along  the  coast  to  tKci 
westward  of  it,  where  there  were  several  great  rivers;  but  we  could 
not  exactly  discover  whether  there  was  a  passage  to  the  southward 
of  that  island  or  'of  the  south  point  now  ip  view.  This  was  espe- 
cially vexatious;  as  our  hope  of  a  further  progress  lay  in  this  direc* 
tion,  and  as  we  could  not  doubt  that  the  lan^  to  the  eastward  was 
the  American  continent.. 

They  further  informed  us  that  there  were  plenty  of  musk  oxen 
on  the  hills  to  the  southward,  and  that  the  remdeer  all  came  this 
way  in  Aprik  while  the  skin  of  a  glutton  which  we  bought  from, 
them  proved  the  presence  of  this  animal  also.    Their  method  of 


4 


I 


41 


:  % 


Hunting  remdeer,  as  they  d< 

■-          "                                                1               . 

I- 

58Cr 

ibea 

It,  IS  pre 

ciseiy  tnac  wi 

• 

9icn  M 

• 

..  -\ 

-11 

'     . 

vl 

\ 

i 
I 

™'  "^"'"'^ 

r 

% 

lS:.«lfalJtL.jfe 

jy 

^fwmpwrtmMMWMrirtw 


.\ 


<■    '<- 


14S 


■  I 


W'-    \. 


I ':  *^  *aK^lfD  VQYAGE  OF  DISCOVERT 

if 


adopted  in  other «part8  M  t^is  country;  and  as  it  has  often  been  mi- ' 
nutely  stated^  I  need  onW  say  that  it  consists  in  aping  the  appear- 
ance of  the  animal,  by  means  of  two  men,  the  foremost  carrying  the 
head  and  homs  over  his  Awn;  thus  giving  them  Unsuspected  access, 
even  within  the  herd.      \ 

The  attempt  to  make  «  drawii%  of  this  village  excited  much  un-, 
easiness  at  first:  but  they  were  satisfied  as  soon  as  the  purpose  was 
explai|^>.and  were  delighted  with  the  identity  of  the  representa> 
tion  w^ii  the^ketch  was  fibished;  each  recognising  his  own  house. 
It  being  then  ^ijhne  to  think  of  returning,  many  of  the  people  offered 
to  accompany  i|0,  and  we  toolcUeaye  of  the  women  and  children;  in* 
viting  the  lame  man  to  come  oik  the  following  day,  that  he  might  be 
examined  by  our  surgeoii.  EighVof  the  men  attended  us  to  the  ship,, 
and  while  six  were  turiied  over  wthe  care  of  the  seamen,  we  in- 
vited the  two  leaders  to  our  owrt^cVbin  dinner. 

Much  astonishment  was  of  course^xcit^d  by  the  knives,  plates, 
and  other  furniture  of  the  table;  ahdV  their  taste  was  not  improved 
since  the  day  before,  while  it  had  prdluibly,  then,  only  been  taken 
by  surprise*  they  ^t  fealt  relished  the  soup,  and,  with  scarcely  any  , 
awkwardness,  inoMj^diatelj^^rHM  the  >use  of  the  8poon.\They 
were  at  feast^^OocT  mimic8|lii!!Sil|  after  oWrving  our  proceedings 
for  a  little  while,  thfy  equally^  found  out  (he  management  of  the 
knife  and  fork,  shortly  using  these  as  if  theV  had  been  long  accus- 
tomed to  them.  They  seemed  now  to  relish \he  preserved  meat; 
as  t^y  did  some  salmon,  more  naturally:  but  tney  did  not  like  the 
salt  nteat,  and  equally  rejected  pudding,  rice,  anil  cheese.  Having  • 
dined,  they  desired  to  rise,  and  we  attended  thenk  forward  to  their 
companions,  who  had  been  equally  well  treated  by  me  sailors;  when 
we  found  them  all  dancing  t(^ether\   -  \ 

As  we  were  returning  to  the  ship  With  them,  beforevthese  adven- 
tures, a  very  cold  blast  of  wind  came^  dpwn  a  valley,  when  one  of 
them  observed  that  the  frost  had  ^ized  one  of  myNcheeks,  on 
which  he  immediately  made  a  snowball  and  rubbed  it,\thu8''cer- 
tainly  saving  me  from  a  disagreeable  wre,  at  least.  AfterUhis,  he 
continued  always  near  me,  frequeiitly\  reminding  me  to  put  mf 
hand  to  the  same  part,  for  fear  of  a  reciirrence'of  the  attack.\  This 
was  good  natured,  and  aided,  with  all  else,  to  give  us  a  favourable 
impression  of  these  people:  while  they  al|  shared  the  same  dis^i- 
tions,  in  aiding  to  carry  our 'things,  as  if  th^y  could  not  do  too  muC 
to  oblige  us.  \  \ 

llth.  The  morning  was  clear,  but  cold,  w^th  the  thermometer  at 
minus  35°;  while,  expecting  our  new  friends,  we  did  not  go  out.  At 
one  o'clock  the  man  who  had  lost  his  leg,  whpse  name  was  Tullua- 
hiu,  arrived,  with  another,  very  intelligent  native,  called  Tiagashu, 
drawing  him  on  a  sledge.  On  examining  the  stump,  the  surgeon 
found  it  a  sound  one,  long  healed,  while,  the  knee  being  bent,  there 
was  no  difficulty  in  applying  a  wooden  leg.    ^he  carpenter  was 


•\ 


\  ' 


iv 


V 


r 


'  \ 


TO  THB  ARCTIC  RBGIOITS. 


149 


\ 


tnere^(^rej^entfoif4cj  measure  him;  whWe,  antidpating  the  purpose, 
he  expressed  the  grsatest  delight.  As  they  seemed  nov^  to  be  un« 
usually  coinmuoica;t  ve,  the  chart  was  produced;  when  it  appeared 
"that  they  wtere  acqi  lainted  with  eyery  place  between  Igloolik  and 
Repulse  bay,  or  wit  i  their  names  ai.  leasts  and  with  those  of  some 
of  the  inhabitants.  IVhen  Ackoolee  was  mentioned  and  pointed  out 
in  the  chart,  they  i  mmediately  recfwnised  their  own  position  and 
that  of  the  ship.        '/  *^ 

One  of  them,  Tu  liiahiu,  theiTlook  the  pencil  and  drew  the  line 
by  which  they  came,  afterwards  making  spots  on  it,  and  counting 
their  fingers  to  show  that  it^ey  had  slept  only  nihe  times  on  the 
journey.  Tiagafthu  then  drew  a  line  of  cbast  round  which  we  coufd 
sail  in  the  autumn;  this  being  in  a  westerly  direction^  and  includii^g 
several  capes,  bays,  and  rivers;  while,  on  it,  were  drawn  sevem 
islands,  in  one  of  which  he  placed  a  lake;  during  which  demonstra- 
tion he  further  pointed  out  where  salmon  and  other  fish  abounded. 
'After  thb,  his  draught  of  the  coast  took  a  northerly  direction^  con- 
siderably beyond  our  present  position,  and  not  less  to  the  westward 
of  it;  while  his  estiniate  of  the  distance  was  two  days;  adding,  that 
hereralso  there  were  rivers  running  iqtd  the  sea. 

The  first  man  then  resumed  the  pencil,  and  drew  several  lai^e 
lakes  in  that  part  of  the  country  where  We  were  now  fixed;  further 
noting  places  where  we  should  find  natives,  and  drawing  a  route 
bjr  which  he  could  gi^over  land  to  the  salt  water  in  nine  days. 
They,  however,  told  us  that  one  of  their  party  was  a  much  better 
eec^irapber  thah  themselves,  and»promised  that  we  should  see -him. 
This  philos^hicftl  discussiO^  being  ^t  an  end,  they  informed  us  that 
'  eighteen  d'lheir  inen  had  ^one  out  to  kill  seals,  but  that  it'  was  tojo 
cold  for  the\Women  and  children:  and  we  then  amused  them  till 
dinner  time  pith  the  engravings  in  the  preceding  voyages.  They 
seemed  to  recognise  all  the  names,  as  if  they  had,  at  least,  heard  df 
the  persons  mei^tioned,  though  th(ey  had  not  seen  them;  and,  had  we 
knowd^  their  lankuage  batter,  weXshould  doubtles^  have  found  th^t 
t|)9  Science  of ,  i^ng  acutMiiited  with  whatever  may  discredit  on^s 
neighbours  is  ^s  well  ut^l^y^ood  hei^  as  in  an  English  country  tomi; 

arjr  to  be  very  near  neighbours  to^be 
^.  ^^^alicibos  as  possible.  I  should  be  very 
glad  to  find,  that  in  this  i^onj^cture,  I  had  done  our  new  friends  in- 

{'ustice:  about  our  own  at  hpm^  it  would  be  far  more  desirable  to«> 
le  proved  in  the  wrong.      \  \\  \ 

In  our  cabin,  the  snuffers  i(MrWed  a  great  object  of  attraction;  but 
still  more  eflfect  was  produ£iea\by  a  large  reading-glass,  through 
which,  when  held  between  th^\n,  each  saw  his  friend's  face  mag- 
nified beyond  all  understanding.  Such  are  the  delights  of  novelty,  and 
thus  does  the  curiosity  of  pureigiMuranceeVer  fiiid  new  gratifications. 
But  we  who,  here,  know  every  thmg,  knowing  even  what  we  hav« 
not  seen  or  learned,  have  contrive^Vo  ge^d  of  these  pleasures;  it 


^'  \  J  - »' 


A't' 


TT 


'■    \ 


■»i 


\. 


) 


•  ^1 


1 


\' 


-  / 


)     -• 


^ 


It 


{ 


IfiO 


SBOOITD  VOYAOB  Of  DnoOTAT. 


is  even  to  be  feared  that  the  "ichoohnaster  abroad  will  ahortlj  find 
his  place  a  mere  sinecare;  so  universally  does  knowledge  seize, 
'  even  on  Jbose  who  do  not  take  the  trouble  to  pursue  it.  It  is 
almost  a  pvoverb,  that  there  is  no  royal  road  to  science;  but  a 
road  as  brief  as  royalty  could  have  desired,  without  beinjg  able  to 
command  it,  has  been  found  by  those  to  whom  the  privileges  of 
knowledge  cease  to  be  odious  whenever  they  can  themselves  exert 
those.  * 

Fortunatelv,  thus  far,  for  our  new  Quests,  there  was  no  penny 
science,  in  this  land  of  little  light,  to  interfere  with  their  admi- 
ration; it  was  absolute,  as  that  of  their  countrymen  had  been  the 
day  before:  though  one  bad  effect  at  least  of  their  ignorance  was 
displayed  in  their  abhorrence  of  plum  pudding,  with  which  we  had 
Viamly  hoped  to  regale  stoinachs  accustomed  to  find  blubber  a  sweet- 
meat, and  train  oil  preferable  to  maraschino.  This,  indeed,  w^^d 
not  to  give  them;  but  our  brandy  was  as  odious  as  oar  puddis^  and 
they  have  yet,  therefore,  to  acquire,  the  taste  which  has,  in  ruining 
the  morals,  hastened  the  extemiiriation  of  their*  American  neigh- 
bours to  the  southward.  If,  however*  these  tribes  must  finally  dis- 
appear, as  seems  their  fate,  it  is  at  least  better  that  they  should  die 
gradually  by  the  force  of  rum,  than  that  they  should  be  exter- 
minated in  masses  by  the  fire  and  the  sword  of  Spanish  conquest; 
since  there  is  at  least  some  pleasure,  such  as  it  is,  in  the  mean  time, 
while  there  is  also  a  voluntary,  if  sbw  suicide^  in  exchange  for 
murder  and  misery.  Is  it  not  the  fate  of  the  savage  and  the  Jin- 
dvilized  on  this  earth  to  give  wi^^  to  the  more  cunning  and  she 
better  informed,  t(^  knowledge  rfnd  civilizatioik|  It  is  the  order  of 
the  world,  and  the  right  one:  nor  will  all  the^  lamentations  of  a 
\nawkish  philanthropy,  with  its  more  absurd  or  censurable  efforts, 
avail  one  jot  against  an  order  of  things  as  wise  as  ij^s,  assuredly, 
established.  AH  which  it  is  our  duty  to  provide  fc^Rb,  that  this 
event  bp  not  hastened  by  oppresnon  and  wrong,  that  it  may  not  be 
attennd  by  the  su&ring  of  individuals. 

But  a.mid  these  depresmve  reflections,  tfaiti'iime  came  to  end  our 
entertainment  and  send  our  company  homcs;i4ie  carriage,  such  as 
it  was,  bdng  in  waiting.  We  explained  that  the  new  leg  would 
be  ready  in  three  days,  when  we  hoped  for  the  pleasure  of  trying  it 
on;  and  then,  presenting  them  each  with  one  of  the  empty  meat 
cunisteri,  they  took  their  departure  in  high  glee.  It  is  delightful 
to  be  able  to  overwhelm  the  needy  with  gold;  n0t  less  so,  I  imaging, 
when  it  is  done  at  no  cost;  and  here  we  had  made  these  poor  men 
as  rich  and  as  happy,  with  what  was  little  better  than  an  old  sauce- 
pan, in  if  our  canisters  had  been  made  of  silver,  and  i^iiere  to  be 
purchased  with  gold.  'Let  no  man  imagine  that  he  knows  what  a 
present  is  worth,  till  he  has  found  what  happiness  can  be  produced 
by  a  blue  bead,  a  yeltow  button,  a  il^le,  or  a  piece  of  an  oM  iron 
hoop. 


/ 


/ 


^■ 


TO  THE  ABCno  RCOIOink 


shortly  find 
edee  seize, 
e  it  It  u 
nee;  but  a 
ing  able  to 
rivllkges  of 
elves  exert 


151 


,  A  very  cold  breeze  prevented  vu  fro^  escorting  them  on  their 
journey,. as  we  had  intended.  We  did  nothing  else  on  this  day,  but 
remove  some  sjnall  stores  out  of  the  way,  lest  they  should  tempt 
these  hitherto  honest  people,  and  thus  make  us  guilty  of  teaching 
them  a  vice  to  which  they  appeared  strangers:  a  vice  common 
among  all  savages,  and  too  much  so,  even  in  some  of  this  race,  as 
we  are  assured  by  the  experience  of  many  navigators. 


/ 


II  DO  penny 
their  admi- 
id  been  the 
orance  was 
ich  wehad 
ler  a  sweet- 
led,  w^^d 
iddis^and 
,  in  ruining 
lean  neiefap 

finally  dis- 
r  should  die 
1  be  exter- 
I  conquest; 
meantime, 
change  for 
nd  the  Jin- 
ig  and  me 
he  order  of 
ations  of  a 
ible  efforts, 

assuredly, 
I,  that  this 
may  not  be 


t    ' 


'u 


to  end  our 
;e,  such  as 
leg  would 
of  trying  it 
npty  meat 
I  delightful 
I  imaging, 
e poor  men 
1  old  sauce- 
^re  to  be 
>W8  what  a 
e  produced 
an  old  iron 


\ 


A 


:r 


■•.--■1 


■vf 


'  "\*  ^i 


iggfefe^y^  ■'T^-'-^.T'-Jja-i^^tiaar^ jEHtw.^'irfto^-«.«Tafe'a--\---  ->.->■  -^  ^  ■■  Vt^^fe^frgtTKag-ntfiajtMiJSiit^^eMtlh^^ 


163 


S]XX>ND  VOYAOB  or  DISCOVERY 


CHAPTER  XVn. 


i', 


r  i. 


i    f 


jReceive  more  geographical  information  from  one  of  the  natives  called 
Ikmallik— Continue  our  communications  with  them—Pur^  mercuru 
Jreezes  at  length,  at  minus  89°— 7%e  first  sunrise  of  the  year— Death 
of  the  armourer— End  of  the  month,  and  summary.    1   -:_I 


Jan.  12th.  The  promised  hydrographer,  Ikmallik,  came  to  us  this 
morning,  accompanied  iHT-Tiagashu,  and  they  were  taken  into  the 
cabin;  six  others  who  attended  them  being  turned  over  to  the  care 
of  the  men.  The  first  information  which  we  received  was,  that 
they  had  killed  several  seals  on  the  day  before,  at  the  seal  holes: 
the  method  being,  as  many  readers  perhaps  already  know,  to  trans- 
fix them  by  the  spear,  when  the  agitation  of  thewgnal  twig  that  is 
placed  in  the  hole  of  the  ice,  shows  that  they  have  come  up  to 
breathe.  Thus  is  the  cunning  of  even  the  lowest  of  mankind  an 
overmatch  for  the  wisdom  of  the  wisest  animal:  though  neither  our 
friends  of  this  country  nor  the  animal  which  they  outwit,  aVe  to  be 
ranked  in  the  extremes  of  these  classes.  ,  \ 

Some  paper  containing  a  sketch  of  the  land  already  known  be- 
tween Repulse  bay  «nd  Prince  Regent's  inlet,  wa>  now  laid  hetot^ 
them,  with  the  names  of  the  different  places  marked.  These  werd 
at  once  recognised:  and  Ikmallik  then  taking  the  pencil,  proceeded  \ 
to  prolong  the  sketch  from  Akullee,  following  very  nearly,  for  a  very 
considerable  space,  the  line  already  traced  by  Tulluahiu.  After 
this,  he  prolonged  it  still  fur Aer  westward,  instead  of  turning,  to  the 
north,  as  the  latter  had  done;  then  continuing  it  to  the  northwest, 
in  a  direction  more  favourable  to  our  views.  He  did  not,  however, 
insert  the  islands;  nor  could  we  discover  how  many  days  it  was  es- 
timated from  the  end  of  his  chart  to  Akullee  near  Repulse  bay;  but 
I^e  drew  Wager  bay  and  its  river  very  correctly,  making  also  seve- 
ral other  rivers.  He  further  gave  us  to  understand  that  our  ship 
could  sail  tha^  way  till  the  autumn;  and  with^this  information  we 
were  obliged,  for  the  present,  to  be  content 

We  sbowe^our  new  friends  the  engravings  of  the  natives  who 
had  been  known  and^^rawn  in  the  preceding  voyages,  being  those 
which  had  been  displayed  to  our  first  visiters;  repeating  their  names 


■-4 


f 

,'.-■■ 

. 

■■    V 

.   ■     ,     .   ' 

I 

♦ 

■       •             '          "  "  V 

\ 

\ 

- 

• 

\ 

i 

t% 

, 

-^^.r^.^.^.*,^^'  ~  -^    «« 

•as     '^  .1  r  J  ^  ' 

"-" 

'',fc 

•^ — 

-'-'^-  - 

"i;*^      ?f-v  ■ 

iiK«r 

TO  THB  JMftlO  RBOIOU.Wx; 


153 


-I 


t€. 


...4 


at  the  same  time.  The  names  were  recognfeed  as  before:  but  both 
of  them  expressed  surprise  at  the  difierence  of  aspect  and  style  be- 
tween  those  persons  and  themselves;  while,  bujt  for  the  beards,  they 
were  inclined  to  believe  them  portraits  of  women.  This  leadef,  Ik- 
mallik,  was  a  strong,  active  man^ >bout  five. feet  ten  inches  high; 
being  the  parago^  of  the  party^ ipl  indeed*  among  these  tribesju.  a 
.  man  of  unusual  power  and  stature.  The  same  presents^  sent  them 
all  home,  happy  and  thankful.  ' 

\3th.  A  thermometer  at  minus  S5P  made  this  a  real]j|Mc6ld  day; 
but  the  wipd  was  not  such  as  to  preVent  usjrom  ^performing  the 
promise.^e  had  made,  to  accompany  the  natives  on  a  seakhunting 
es:pedition.  We  met  them  accordingly,  about  half  way  from  their 
vilia^ge,  unarmed;  and  they  turocd  back  quite  delighted  -Ivhen  told 
that  we  meant  to  proceed  to  their  huts.  .A  sharp  breeze  then 
springing  up  against  us,  the  danger  of  being  frost  J^itten  became  con- 
siderable; on  which  they  all  undertook  to  watcK  U8f;.:{^^ng  notice 
whenever  it  was  necessary  to  apply  our  hands  to  any  part  m  our 
faces  that  were  in  danger  of  suffering,  that  we  might  ruK^them  for 
restoring  the  circulation.  '     \ 

The  women  had  k)5t  much  of  their  timidity,  on  this -our  second 
visit:  and  finding  that  the  seal-hunting*  party  was  absent,  we  enter- 
ed Tulluahiu's  hut,  where  we  met  a  kind  reception  fropi  his  mo- 
ther, wife,  daughter,  and  two  young  children,  forming  his  apparent; 
family.  A  complete-  female  dress  nad  heeh  made  ready  as  a  pre- 
senffor  me;  being  of  the  materials  and  construction  already  de- 
scribed, with  an  appearance  of  unusual  care  in  aidjusting  the  symme- 
try of  the  skins,  so  that  the  colours  Should  correspond  On  each  side'; 
while  there  was  sL  fringe  below,  and  a  border  of  white  round  the 
hood  and  the  openin|s  for  the  arm^  I  bad  no  doubt  that  itf  was  a 
first-fate  specimen  of  mantua-making;  and  it  was  my  busine^  to  es- 
timate  it  as  a  London  lady  woutd  have  d<me  the  loftiest  production 
.  of  the  highest  dress-maker  in  the  calendar  of  fashion.  In  return,  I 
prelented  this  generous  ladg^rith  a'sflk  handkerchief;^beine  the  ar- 
ticle, of  all  that  I  had  shoflHir,  which  attracted  her  chief  admira- 
tion. I  soon  found  too,  thaf  ^is  personage,  woman  though  she  was, 
did  not  want  a  knowledge  of  g^raphy,  and  that  aIso„of  a  different 
nature  from  what  she  might  have  acquired  in  an  English  boarding- 
school,  through  the  question  book  and  '*the  use  of  the  globes." 
Tifiksiu,  for  that  was  h0r  nanie,  perfectly  c'orapreh^ded  the  chart; 
and  being  furnished  with  the  means,  drew  onfe  of  her  own,  very  much 
resembling  it,  but  with  many  more  islands:  adding  also  the  plac^ 
where  we  must  sleep  in  our  future  progress,  and  thosex  where  food 
was  to  be  obtained.  On  these  points,  at  least,  it  was  anj  emendation 
of  the  knowledge  we  had  attained  before. 

The  hunting  party. now  returned,  with  a  lai^  white,  seal;  while 
the  rest  of  our  crew  also  joined  us,  havhig  experienced  the  same, 
kind  treatment  wherever  tney  had  been,  and  having  seen,  among 
20 


'^.. 


"h^: 


*.jQs^''sz?«a^v^(i^irtwii'i  nfr^  d^f'""^* '" 


u 


.V 


''tf 


■EooRi^  yoTAOB  or  DiaoqvERY 


<   J 


the  people,  large  quantities  of  venison  and  fish  which  had  evidently 
been  buificd  in  the  snow.  The  ppliteness  of  the  natives,  as  it  must 
be  esteemed,,  caused  a  party  to  accompany  our  men  on  their  way, 
in  apparent  return  for  the  same  ^civility  before  Shown  by  us;  b^t, 
after  a.  time,  they  asked  leave  to  'depart,  and  we  separated  with  the 
usual  noisy  formt.'  It  was  settled  atthe  same  time,  that  Tulluahiu 
should  come  for  his  WoodelTleg'^f  next  day,  while  the  rest  were  to 
resume  their  seal  hunting.  It  was'^xceedinglv  cold  on  our  way  back 
to  the  shiptiind  I  did  not  escape  without  loosmg  some  skin  from  one 
cheek.  Wer  had  8een"'MRiree<|>tarmigans  in  thje  morning,  but  it  was 
,  in  vafn ihat  we  triied  to  start  tbem-again  on  ouA-eturn.   ' 

lilh.  The' thermometer  fell  from  itfstatiob  of  minus  33°  last  even* 
,  ing,  to  38°;  and  as  the  breeze  made  it  very  <folld,  I  doubted  if  our 
i^^lient  would  keep  his  appointment.    He  came,  however,  by  noon,  - 
'  accompanied  by  his  friend  Otookiu,  whose  wife  Kuanga,  together    ^ 
with  an  elderly  woman,  four  men,  Jind  two  boys,  completed  the 
-   p^rty.    The  three  printipals  were  taken  into  the  c«bin,  as  we  could 
'    there  accommodalfe  no  more>  and  the  rest  were  left  in  charge  of  the 
'mate.    The  wooden-leg  was  then  fitted,  to  ascertain  whether  the 
^  length  was  correct;  and  as  it  had,  after  this,  to  be  finished*  the  man  '< 
for  whom  it  had  been  made  was  desired  to  return  on  the  following 
day.    A  i-e-exairiination  of  the  chart  added  little  to  our  previous  in- 
ibrmatioiy;  but  what  we  could  conclude  wai^  that  there  yVM  a  great 
bay  between  AkuUee  and  this  place,  and  that  if  there  was  any  open- 
ing to  the  westward,  it  must  be  a  very  narrow  one. 
That  they  knew  ^hat  it  was  to  delineate  land,  wat  evident, 
°   because  theV  drew  the  lakes  near  Repulse  bay  very  accurately, 
t<^ether  with  the  places  of  severaPinlets  and  nvera  on  the  coast, 
both  to  the  southward  and  westward.    They  had  heard  of  the  sea 
•    houses  of  the  other  Esquimanx,  but  had.  not  seen  them;  and  |hence, 
while  we  concluded  that  they  had  never  been  on  the  east  coastr^ 
\f,e  inferred  that^his  tribe  does  not  travel  out  of  the  limits  of  thiil^ 
.  bay,  though  we  could  not.yec  be  sure  of  the  nature  of  their  mode 
.   of  life  and  migrations.         •    .  .  •'*' 

Desiring  to  go  at  one  o'clock,  the  rest  of  the  party  were  called 
'from  below,  and  we  were^'entertained  to  find  that  the  mate'  had 
prevailed  on  4he  elderly  dame  to  -have  her  by r  cut,  and  combed, 
and  arranged;  the  result  making  such  an  advantageous  change  in 
her  appearance,  that  all  of  them  desired  to.undergo  the  same  ope- 
rations. This  was  an  unusual  display  of  ambition  and  Wste  among 
these  tribes;  making  me  r^et  that  I  had  not  provided  myself  with  ' 
It  stock  of  combs,  as  presents;  blif*nie^ring  of  beads  which  I  gave 
to  each  of  the  women  was  probably  of  iKbre  value  in  their  eyes,  if 
of  far  less  use.  \     * 

15th.  We  tried  some  mercury  known  to  ibe  pure,  and  it  froze. 
This  was  the.te8t'H>f  a  tempera%re  of  30°  nfttus;  and  as  the  ther- 
momeHlr  by  which  we  were  nowthsecvin^  stobd  at  the  aame^nark, 


,1   ' 


^  J 


■^:- 


\ 


\ 


TO  THE  AKCTlO  tKaiOWS. 


10ft 


I 


we  were  satisfied  with  its  acfcnracy,  as  t&r  at  this  point  at  least.  It 
fell  nfterwardt  to  40°,  being  hitherto,  our  lowest  degree.  The  n>e. 
ridional  horizon  was  less  clear  than  usual,  so  that  we  derivcdggnuch 
less  advantage  from  the  sun'S  noonday  twilight.  The  two  men  of  - 
yesterday  came  alone;  it  was  understood  that  the  rest  had  gone  to 
bunt  for  seaU.  The  promised  legrbeing  now  complete,  was  fitted 
on;  and  thSre  was  little  time  lost  in  finding  its  use  and  value;  as 
the  disabled  person  soon  began  to  strut  about  the  cabin,  in  apparent 
ecstacy;  with  more  reason  certainly  to  be  delighted 'with  his  present,;^ 
than  all  the  others  united,  with  what  they  had  received.  All  the 
surgery  of  this  case  lay  indeed  with  the  carpenter;  not  tlje  Worst 
ppeca4or,  I  believe,  in  this  compound  profession;  but  I  doubt  if  any 
cHbrt  of  surgery  ever  gave  more  satisfaction^than  we  had  thus 
conferred,  in  reproducing^  man  fully  serviceable  odcemore  to  liinT' 
self  and  his  community. 
The  gratitude,  however,  in  this  case,  took  a  veryaniusing  course, 
et,  though  somewhat  ludicrous  (o  us,  it  was  natural  in  them,  who 
lad  no  reasons  to  doubt  their  own  ii)e(^cinal  knowledge;  while  the, 
only  mediqal  superiority  that  we  had  ^#  displayed,  consisting  in  a 
greater  cofaimand  of  limber  and  tools  chiefly,  was  not  such  as  to 
render  ihen)  suspicions  of  their  bwn  powers.  But  whatever  the 
vanity  might  be,  th&  gpoir will  was.  unquestionable.  The  poor  ar^ 
mourer,  they  saw,  wuVwoi^  to  a^'skeleton;  and  as  Otookin  was'iiir. 
Angekok,  or  conjuror;;  Md  physician  in  one,  4h6y  proposed  to  apply 
their  charms  towards  tBb  cure  of  our  fast-wasting  patient.  It  is 
true  enought  that  diseases  can  be  conjured  out  of  a  man's  body,  or 

-inind,a8  is  miofe  likely;  and  that  were  it  not  for  the  power  of  con- 
juration, physic  would  want  its  right  hand,  even  in  London,  abound- 
ing in  other  successtul  Angekoks  than  the  several  bold  quacks,  who, 

'  eacfi  in  his  own  departmentTheals  all  the  diseases  of  his  own  pecu- 
liar set  of  gulte/Bbt  oiir  poor  man's  case  was  too  berious  to  permit 
our  countenfliKing  such  trifling  as  this;  and  the  proposition  was 
therefore  passed  by,  till  it  was  forgotten  amid  the  other  objects  of 
«ttrac%i  by  which  the  attention  o£  our  new  friends  was  so  %lly 
occupii^.  .  ^ 

The  1^  was  inscribed  with  fhe  name  of  the  ship,  and  jpacked  up 
in  the  slcqge,  as  it  was  not  yet  sufficiently  familiar  for  a  journey  of 
two  miles  through  iqs  and  snow.  That  we  parted  better  frioidr 
than  ever,  cannot  be  doubted.  We  learned  to«day  that  TuUuahui 
had  a  brother  who  was  engaged  with  a  party  further  north,  whom 
he  intended  shortly  to  join  fof  the  purpose  or  hunting  the  musk  ox; 
that  there  was  excjellent  salmon  fibbing  in  spring  and  summer,  and 
that  there  were  abo  laige  fish  in  the  lakes;  while-he  further  inform* 
ed  us,  that  they  were  toltontinue  for  the  present  in  this  place,  as 
they  bad  taken  many  seMs  the  day  before.  We  ri^retted  to  have 
ascertained,  that  under  the  same-  language,  their  dialect  difi^ed  > 
cnuch  fitomtbe  vocabularies  in  th^  books,  and  aho  fi^m  the  Daniah 


f: 


•■■■t'J 


■^. 


iiii 


156 


SECOND  VOTAGB  OF  DISCOVERT 


/> 


i.i    .'". 


l-i/-/ 


dictionary  of  the  Esquimaux  tongue  which  we-  possessed.    We  had 
therefore  an  Interest  in  studying  it  seriously,  since  it  was  likely  to  be 
our  chief  future  source  of  information:  and,4n  this  pursuit, Comman- 
>  der  Ross,  very  naturally,  proved  the  most  apt  scholar. 

10(A.  Three  natives  came  on  board  to-day,  reporting  that  they  had 
killed  six  seals  the  day  before.  Tiagashu,  the  son  of  the  old  man 
of  ttie  tribe,  isras  amongst  the*knost  intelligent  that  we  had  con- 
versed with;  but  neither  of  them,  after  inspecting  the  chart,  added 
any  thing  new  to  our4>reviou8  information.  They  were  amused, 
as  these  people  <Kad  always  been,  with  the  sketches  which  we,  made 
of  them,  and  laughed,  heartily  at  the  portraits  of  the  wooden-legged 
man  and  his  companion.  Those  who  had  not  received  tin  canisters 
before  as  presents*  were  now  tfeated  with  one  each;  and  oil  part- 
ing, if  we  understood  them  rightly,  they  informed  us  thaTt  they  had 
lately  seen  some  of  the  people  from  Igloolik.  The  thermometer 
fell  to  42°  minus,  in  the  evening,  and  there  was  an  inconspicuous 
aurora. 

llth.  ^  After  having  been  at  43°  ihinus  in  the  morning,  the  temper- 
diture  rose  a  few  degrees  in  the  course  pf  the  day.    During  divine 
serviccfive  of  the  Esquimaux  came  to  the  ship;  and  after  that  was 
*^  over;  they  were  admitted.    That  Sunday  is  .unknown  to  them,<I 
T^lfibed  not  say.    The  features  of  an  elderly  man)  HoUshaktoo,  which 
were. preserved  by  a  portrait,  differed  considerably  fi^m  the  general 
character,  as.  if  he  had  belonged  to  a  different  tribe.    They  inform- 
ed us  of  the  capture  of  five/more  seals;  making  up  the  whole  ' 
week's  hun^  to  eighteen,  which  they  considered  a  successful  one> 
,  though^hey  should  even  take  no  more  at  this  time.    The  presents 
were  repeated,  as  before,  to  those  who  bad  not  received  any;  and 
•  two  of  tne  number  were  pleaSied  to  get  rid  of  then:  beards  under  the 
hands  of^  the  mate.  '  The  rising  of  a  smart  wind  under  this  tem- 
perature', made  us  invite  them  to  remain  for  thfe  night;  but  though 
two  were  wiHing  to  stay,  the  rest  had  appointed  a  s^l  hifnt,  and 
.  they  all  departed. 

ISth.  There  was  to-day  a  violent  storm  of  drift  snow,  since  the 
wind  of  the  morning  soob  rose  to  a  gale;  and  it  was  consequently. so 
thick  at  noon>  that  we  could  not  see  the  sun,  on  which  we  had  cal- 
<  culat^.    The  thermometer,  however,  rose  to  32°  in  the  course  of 
the  day,  and,  at  .nine  at  night,  was  but  minus  9°.    It  was  a  dayisf 
absolute  imprisonment,  of  course.    The  wind  was  muth  less  severe 
on  the  following  day,  having  been  from  the  north- westward,  with  the 
ba'rometer  at  S^°  or  thereabouts. 
-  ^   It  did  Dof>  therefore,  prevent  the  visit  of  our  friends,  as  the  pre* 
ceding  one  had  unquestionably  done;  three  men  and  (wo  boys  anriv- 
^  i^ing  earlv  in  the  foreno(an>  and  remaining  with  us  a  few  hours;  after 
V    which  they  departed,  with  the  usual  eratidcations.    The  first  fraud 
attempted  on  us  occurred  to-day,  biu  it  was  a  sufficiently  perdon- 
j^f      able  one.    A  boy  begged  a  canistpr  for  his  mother,  whose  husband 


=# 


\ 


4    A 


'      -^     , 


J 


TO  TBB  ARCTIC  HEOIOlfS. 


157 


conspicaous 


as  we  found,  bad  already  received  one;  but  the  detection  of  tbis 
scheme  only  occasioned  merriment  among  them:  a  result  which  we 
experienced  on  many  occasions  afterwards.  One  of  the  men  was 
distinguished  by  a  row  of  foxes'  teeth  in  his  hair,  and  seemed  espe- 
cially intelligent.  It  occurred  to  me  to-day „tbat  Vve  might,  by  tak- 
ing a  couple  of  bc^s  into  the  ship,  contrive  to  teach  them  English, 
and  also,  by  aid  of  the  books  furnished  by  the  minister  at  Holstein- 
boi^,  enable  them  to  learn  the  art  of  reading  and  writing  their  own 
language.  Thus,  should  we  succeed,  they  might  be  rendered  of 
essential  i^se  hereafter;  and  I  therefore  concluded  on  making  the 
proposal  at  the  first  opportunity.  \ 

20<A.  The  gale  abafed  to-day,  and  the  weather  became  settled^rid. 
clear.  (jOmmandcr  Ross  and  the  surgeon  paid  a  visit  to  the  native 
village,  and  were  amused  by  an  exbibition  of  singing  an4.  dangingi 
The  sun  appeared  for  the  first  tinuyafteran  absence  of  fiftv  days, 
being  about  half  its  diameter  aboifipe  visible  horizon;  so  that  wcf 
might  have  seen  the  upper  limb  betoref  as  we  had  calculated,  had 
the  sky  been  sufficiently  clear.  That,  hqweVer,  which  gave  us  plea- 
sure, had  no  such  effect  on  the  Esquimajux^to  whom  the  night  of  this 
region  is  their  day;  or  to  which  it  is,  at  least/utr  preferable,  since  it 
is  of  far  more  value  to  them  in  hunting  the  cunning  and  cautious 
seab.  For  this  reason  they  always  returned  home  when  the  day 
broke;  complaining  of  the  light  as  their  enemy  and  as  the  cause  of  a 
compulsory,  not  a  wilful  itUeness.  After  this,  hdving  informed  us 
that  they  had  marked  down  some  ptarmigans,  we  were  induced  tp 
proceed  on  the  pursuit  of  this  game,  and  at  length  contrived  to  8hoo| 
one.  It  proved,  however,  to  be  a  willow  partridge;  showing  that 
this  bird  exists  in  these  regions  daring  all  seasons  of  the  year.   ^     ^ 

The  unfortunate  armourer,  James  Maslin,  died  this  evening. ''  VC 
had  be^n  long  ascertained  that  he  was  suflfering  under  tubercular' 
consumption,  and  could  not  survive;  so  that  our  regrets  were  neces- 
sarily limited.  That  he  had  been  in  hospitals  in  England  for  the 
same  complaint,  had  been  known  to  us  from  a  very  early  period  of 
our  voyage,  but  not  under  such  circumstances  as  to  enable  us  to  send 
him  back.  His  age  was  forty-five;  and  he  did  not  quit  this  life  with- 
out having  been  long  prepared  for  the  event. 

The  twenty-first  was  c&lih%nd  clear.  .  A  boy  and  a  girl  from,  the 
Esquimaux,  in  company  with  some  men,  paid  us  a  visit  The  latter 
was  so  wrapped  up  in  furs'  that  she  had  the  figure  of  a  globe  stand- 
ing on  two  pin^  but  black  piercing  eyes,  added  to  ruddy  cheeks  and 
youth,  produced  a  nretty  fisice«  where  our  standard  of  beauty  had 
ceased  to  be  fixed  al  a  very  high  d^ee.  I  imagine  that  this  is  a 
n)uch  more  tractable  standard  than  is  commonly  supposed;  and  that 
habit  efiects,  in  a  far  shorter  time  than  has  been  thought,  thitt 
change  in  the  feelings  on  this  subject,  which  we  vainly  suppose  can 
never  occur.  Such  at  least  has  been  the  experience  of  all  travellers; 
and  the  arrangement  is  unquestionably  a  wise  one,  unce  tlmt  which 


I 


i\ 


fl 


-^ 


^ 


rS- 


■• 


\\ 


^ 


^  *'^^tnnl»v» 


158 


SBCOITD  VOTAOK  OF  DUOOVERT 


li-     f 


M 


is  the  only  accessible  ought  also  to  be  the  most  acceptable  ?%i* 
ypuDg  person  was  already  betrothed,  as  is  the  ^ustom  of  this  country; 
the  affiance  being  even  settled,  in  many  cases,  during  extreme  in- 
fancy, or  almost  from  the  birth  of  the  femal^  child.  We  have  all 
read  romances  in  which  these  early  contracts  had  proved  unsuccess- 
ful: perhaps  they  succeed  better  here,  becausejthere  is  soUittle  varie- 
ty to  distract  attention,  that  one  wife  is  equivalent  to  any  other  that 
might  be  chosen;  but  if  the  system  is  not  practically  very  different 
from  that  of  the  Turks  and  Chinese,  (presyming  the  contract  to  be 
irrevocable,  \«hich  we  do  not  know),  the/husband  at  le»st  se^  his 
future  bride,  can  watch  her  progress  upwards,  and  does  not,  to  use  a 
very  vulgar  phrase,  "buy  a  pig  in  a  sack,"  like  the  man  of  Chiaa, 
or  him  of  the  race  of  Othroa».  '         /  ~~>>  .] 

My  readers  are  probably  tired  of  the  names  of  ijien  who  can  haVe 
no  peculiar  interest  for  them,  and  whom,  like  the  writers  of  Indian 
his,tory,  (if  these  persons  would  but  /ecoUect  it,  which,  unfortunately, 
they  have  never  yet  done^,  we  ckin  distinguish  by  nothing  to  make 
one  hard  word  remembered  in  preference  to  another.  Wor  can  it 
much  interest  any  one,  who  was  the  wife,son,nephew,granddaughter, 
or  betrothed,  of  whom,  when  the-wedding  4ay  was  fixed,  or  what 
were  the  politics,  gossipings,  squabbles,  friendships,  or  parties,  in  this 
septentrional  city.  Much,  therefore,  which  we  learned,  I  mj  de- 
cline to  record:  I  much  doubt  if  it  could  e^[ertain  even  the  female 
ancients  of  an  English  villisge:  as  universal  knowledge  "progresses," 
a  new  interest  will  attach  to  a  r^ion  so  robbed  m  its  "natural  rights? 
by  nature  herself,  and  a  newspaper  will,  t>f  icourse,  apjiroximate 
this  frozen  and  furred  people  to  the  greatfrat^rnity  of  mankind.  It 
wi|s  much  more  important  than  all  that  I  midit  have  here  told  of 
the  yet  dormant  Morning  Post  of  this  ill-used|country,  to  find  that 
the  wooden  leg  had  enabled  our  friend  to  attend  the  seal^  hipt:  but 
as  the  philosophy  of  our  worthy  carpenter,  Chimham  Thomas,  had 
contrived «  more  fitting  foot  to  it,  for  walking  on  snow,  and  that  tjbe 
said  foot  was  in  progress  to  completion,  he  was  appointed  to  come  fbr 
it  on  the  following  day.  | 

They  departed  not  k>ng  after  noon;  and  the  remainder  of  the  pibo- 
ple's  time  was  employed  in  digging  the  armourerVi  jraye.    Toihe 

Sjpfeasional  in  this  task,  there  is,  in  this,  nothing:  to  a^l!S%all  ci«el^, 
utualiy  dependent,  and  separated  from  all  the  world^it  would  have 
been  a  painful  office,  since  it  was  almost  that  of  the  parent  or  brother 
who  digs  the  grave  of  his  deafest  relation,  on  a  deAprt  island,^iM>t 
knowing  when  his  own  turn  may  come  to  claim  the  same  service 
from  -those  who  remain;  but  our  long  convictron  of  the  inevitable 
event  had  bhinted  those  feelings  and  wearied  those  reflections.  The 
task,  however,  was  executed  in  silence,  at  leai^;  and  it  was  not  for 
any  of  as  to  inquire  of  the  feelings  of  those  who  were  employe^  in 
this  painful  office. 
The  sun  was  really  brflliaQt  at  iiomi»  and  condderably  elevated: 


,B> 


t 


'•^as 


;*.. 


i^'«»)f* 


"fB^'-*!  ■ 


■  'ii 


"^i" 


m 


TO  tBE  ABCnO  BMIOVS. 


159 


it  was  a  regaling  sight;  ^hile  it  also  gave  a  promise  that  could  not 
be  broken,  the  promisej  of  increasing  in  brightness  and  duratimi 
everyday.  This  is  ind<|ed  a  sunrise,  though  more  in  promise  than 
performance,  to  v^hichjall  ther^spleii^^ur  of  morning  suns  m  a 
southern  climate  is  as  nothing.  It  is  an  ever  welceme  luminary, 
undouhtcdiy,  ^rhen  it  first  announces  day,'  to  all  at  Jeast  whom  an 
artificial  lire  has  not  corrupted:  it  is' welcome  even  to  them,  should 
chance  a£G>rd  4hem  the  means  of  seeing  the  morning's  rise.  But 
it  is  a  far  other  mornibg  to  those  who  nave  been  deprived  of  the 
sight  of  the  glorious  sun  for  weeks,  who.  have  se,en  little  more  than 
a  prolonged  evening  for  months.  Its  rise  .seems  a  new  life;  and 
though  it  has  here  finished  its  iiilmost  momentary  career  before  we 
can  well  say,  it  is  here^here  is  the  certainty  of  a  better  to-morrow, 
the  assurance  that  summer  is  to  come,  aqd  that  it  is  now  truly  ap< 
proaching. 

The  twenty-second  of  January  was  the  finest  day  that  we  had 
seen  for  a  long  time;  an^  though  the  temperature  was  at  minus 
S5^  it  was  so  calm  that  the  cold  was  little  felt  The  owner  of  the 
new  leg  cane  to  us  with  a  large  party,  including  a  flock  of  boy» 
from  five  to  thirteen  years  of  age:  and  the  new  foot,  being  ready, 
promised  so  well,  that  we  could  scaacely  pr^ent'  him  from  return- 
ing immediately,  that  he  might  try  its  powers.  The  magnitude  of 
the  benefit  seemed  indeed  to  overwhelm  both  himself  and  IJs 
friends:  and  we  felt,  of  course,  cai^nter  and  all,  the  fuU  triumph 
of  superior  civilization;  as  the  people  themselves  evident^  admitted 
that  we  were  a  more  cunning' itice  than  they,  though  we  could  not 
equalljT  harpoon  seals  at  an  ice  hole,  nor  eat  iplrus  flesh  stewed  in 
train  oiL 

Thus  much  for  the  useful  aris.  Navigators  have  often  missed  that 
acknowledgment  of  superiority  which  the?  ejzpecte^in  the  estima- 
tation  of  savage  nations,  by  furnishing  them  with  objects  of  pure 
luxury;  and  when,  finding  their  error  or  not,  they  have  desired  to 
do  better,  they  have  forgotten  that  new  wants  cannot  be  formed  in 
a  moment,,nor  old  habits  broken  in  half  a  day,  by  a  bottle  of  porter 
and  a  beefsteak,  or  an  uncomfortable  pair  of  breeches:  that  custom 
alone,  were  vanity  of  no  account,  causes  the  savage  to  estimate  his 
own  cbthing,  or  the  want  of  any,  at  a  much  higMr  rate  than  all 
which  even  a  Stult^  could  produce,  to  value  and  cling  to  his  own 
modes  of  life,  and  his  own  food,  repulsive  as  it  may  be  to  ourselves, 
far  beyond  all  that  can  be  oflered  m  exchange.  A  wiser  politician 
would  measure  the  mind  first,  and,  to  that,  adapt  his  attempts  at 
beneficence  or  improvement  But  it  is  very  unreasonable  to  expect 
that  all  men  should  be  wise;  and  most  unreasonable  of  all,  to  expect 
this  in  improvers  and  inventors.  I  wm  not,  therefore,  note  tlw 
errors  of  well-meaning  men,  to  whose  plans  I  need  only  allude,  oB 
this  subject;  but  I  am  sure  that  the  simple  contrivance  of  thfa 
wooden  leg,  miwd^  h^^hcr  in  the  estimation  of  this  people,  than 


I 

■"'ft 


I 


■-■*r'' 


•  * 


i    I 


160 


all  the  jwondere 


^v 


SEOOITD  VOYAGE  OF  DISCOVERT 


ail  luo  r"w..«w.»  we  had  Bhown  thein,  and,  undoubtedly,  far  higher 
than  thfe  superiof-  attainments  of  all  kinds,  belonging  to  us,  which 
they, co&ld  not  abpreciate.  . /,     ,     .     •        e 

It  W^s  not  pcJlitic  to  exhibit  all  our  wonders  at  the  beginning  ot 
our  adduairitanbe;  and  having  therefore  reserved  something  for  a 
further  display,  the  apparatus  for  instantaneous  light.  Which  was 
now  produced/  excited,  in  the  phraseology  .of  our  day  of  cant 
phrases,  a  string  sensation.  The  interior  of  a  watch  seemed  mpre 
than  incomprJh^sible;  and  we  seemed  in  great  danger  of  being  re- 
put^  amongftheVonjurors;  our  bettees  in  philosophy  had  acljuired 
the.s^me  reiutatipn,  but  too  often  a  very  serious  one  for  them,  in 
agMtiot  far  fremoVed,  and  amid  more  light,  it  must  be  hoped,  than 
irradiated  the  mentol  climate  of  a  tribe  of  Esquimaux. 

Inthi^mfean  tim^  three  willow  partridges  were  brought  in>y 
my  hephe^  we  hadVo'  chosen  that  any  of  the  natives  should  go 
with  him/i^£ing  as  y«  unwilling  that  they  should  know  the  effect 
of  our  wc^ns.  The\game  was  however  examined  by  them  very 
minutelysTiSd  they  expressed  a  great  desire  to  knoW  the  nature 
and  opertiti6n\of  the  ^uns;  questions  which,  for  the  present,  w^ 
contrived  to\vkde  m  linintelligible  explanations.  The  compara- 
tive m^surements  off  their  statures  excited  much  interest  among 
them,  and  th(5r  ^^"^  exceedingly  clamorous  at  finding  that  there 
was  onfe  who  lideasUred  but  four  feet  ten  inches,  since  two  of  them 
were  five  feetteight inch^  high.  Their  departure  left  us,  once 
inore,/to  our  uaial^ptcupsttions  for  our  owp  comfort  and  future 

We  had  ahother  visitW  men  ^d  Boys.  One  of  the  former 
^rom  NeitchilUje,  and  had  Indian  rather  than*  Esquimaux  fea- 
This  place,\o  the  south-west,  they  estimated  at  nine  days' 
f  of  a  sledg6i\we  suppbs^  it  might  be  a  hundred  and  fifty 
The  e%0U  of  the  maghet  were  the  chief  novelty  shown 
thi^  day.  TheexWfetion  of  snel|»dragon,  as  it  is  called,  produced 
als6  great  surprise;  Specially  iW  the  conjurer,  who  rewarded 
usTwith  one  of  his  c<Mnuring  songs.  The  use  of  a  pistol  was  now 
alio  at  length  shown;  Mnce  it  wa)^  sooner  or  later,  necessary  for 
em  to  know  that  our  wrms  were  si^perior  to  their  own. 
l24th.  From  minus  85*»je8terday,  the  temperature  rose  to  20°. 
l^e  had  settled  that  the  akmourer's  funeral  should  take  place  he- 
re the  church  service;  And  it  was  Accordingly  performed  with 
be  usual  forms  and  solemniW;  an  appr<ypriate  sermon  being  after- 
mrds  selected  for  that  of  the  day.  Fd^tunately,  the  natives  of- 
us  no  interruption  by  their  visit;  iMit,  after  noon,  they  ar- 
;..,««,  to  the  amount  of  foiirteen,  including  five  children.  The 
(man  with  the  wooden  leg  ha«  walked  the  whole  distance, being 
two  miles  and  a  half,  and  Was  therefore  quite  master  of  his 
implement.  Among  them  wa*\  a  stranger  from  another  tribe, 
with  hii  hair  in  a  ^%rent  faHhiVn;  but  we  could  not  make  out 


proje«^ 


mik 


\. 


\, 


►"■■'»- 


'■#-■ 


RKII 


TO  THB  ARCTIO  RKdlOHS.  161 

the  place  of  hi>  residence.  The  tame  lax  uofbrtunatel^  died,  frW 
having  got  access  to  a  specfm^n  of  ttjs  willow  partridge,. in  the 
preparation  of  which  arsenic  had  been  used;  thus|C{yasing  us  a  doul 
ble  loss.  . .»  A  j  I 

26th.  Another  party  came  on  board,  ^nd  among  them,  a  woman 
with  an  infant  at  her  Back.  She  vrks  hideously  tattooed  all 
over  the  ^ce;  and  her  portrait,  like  ib»tr  qf  many  others,  was 
drawn.  Bet  husband  was!  a  stranger  J  belonging  to  some  south* 
ern  tribe,  and  knew  the-inmes  for  C(»pper  and  bras^  whereas, 
with  the,^present  people,  thje  name  of  iron  applied  to  all.  The 
presents  iWhich  we  made  to  these  also,  did  not  prevent  the  disap- 
pearance of  a  pair  of  snufiers;  though  \^e  could  not  ascertain  who 
the  culprit  was. 

28th.  Fifteen  of  the  Esquiinaux  arrived  to-day,  witl^some  cloth- 
ing to  sell;  and  they  thought  themselves  amply  rewarded  in  receiv- 
ing a  knife  for  each.  To  put  a  check  on  their  troublesoii^  familiar- 
ity, I  admitted  only  four  into  the  ship;  two  of  our  former  friends, 
with  their  wive&  7o  prevent  temptation  also,  all  the  portable  ar- 
ticles which  were  outside  of  the  ship,  having  been  placed  on\^  ice 
for  convenience,  \jfere  brou^  on  board;  while  some  oien  wd^e  ap- 
pointed to  watch,  in  case  of  any  attempts  at  pilfering.  .Even  y^ith- 
out  the^  Case  of  the  snufiers,  we  Had  no  right  to  expect  absolute 
honest^  among  this  tribe  above  all  othenq  and,- at  smy  rate,  w^re 
bound  to  expose  them  to  no  temptations.  After  their  departure  we 
took  our  w|lk,  a^d  found  a  raven  feeding  oo  a  hare  ^hich  we  had 
'  probably  wounded  to  death  in  some  of  our  excursions.  The  temperaA 
ture  was  at  34°  mimls. 

27th.  Another  set  of  visiters  brought  two  moredreases,  which  we 
purchased  at  the  same  price,  together  with  a  searM^  valued  at  a 
piece  of  an  iron  hoop.  We  had,  of  course,  the  troiiblb  oC^he  usual 
office  of  showmen:  but  to  our  further  inquiries  about  Neitchillee  the 
only  answer  we  could  get  was,  that  there  was  a  large  river,  with 
plenty  of  fish.  They  had  taken  more  seals  during  ame  days  past, 
ai^d  were  to  proceed  with  this  hunting, 

'  28th.  The  temcKerature  rose,  and  the  sun  was^felt  to  have  some 
power  this  day.  Fo^rteen  Esquimaux  came  alongside,  including  five 
women  who  had  not^seen  the  ship  before:  and  we  had  again,  of 
courst;,  to  go  through  all  the  ceremonial  of  showing  wonders  and 
making  presents:  thus,  however,  increasing  our  collection  of  por- 
traits. A  female  fox  was  taken  id  a  trap,  in  a  'state  of  extrMpe 
starvation:  displaying  corresponding  voracity  when  meat  was  pro> 
duced.  It  served  to  replace  the  former.  Another,  in  the  same  con- 
dition, wtirtaueht  on  the  following  day:  and  the  unfortunate  solitary 
raven,  approaching  the  ship,  was  shot  It  bad  been  a  companion  of 
our  stay  all  the  winter,  nncl  deserved  to  have  been  spared.  ^  In  other 
days,  or  in  minds  more  deeply  tinctured  with  poetry  or  superstitioa* 
81  ' 


w 


.is#. 


.«*• 


163 


SECOHD  VOYAGB  pF  OISOOVBRY 


^l 


I  know  not  vhat  mental  misery  might  not  have  followed  an  act  bo 
■acrilegioug.  ^ 

30th.  Proceeding  to  the  Esquimaux  Village,  we  met  the  wooden- 
legged  man  coming  alone  towards  the  ship,  with  a  present  of  an  ar- 
row, and  with  the  intention  of  informing  us  that  Otookiu  was  sick.. 
We  found  him  with  a  swelled  face;  and  it  was  settled  that  he  should 
come  to  the  ship,,  on  the  next  day,,  for  remedies.  We  were  kindly 
received  by  the  women,'  and  purchased  some  small  articles.  The 
thermomet^er  this  day  was  at  minus  30°,  and  some  transits  were  ob- 
tained. 

3Is/.  Thii  month  ended  with  a  very  fine  day.  Half  the  village 
arrived  while  we  were  engaged  in  our  church  service;  Otookiu,  with 
the  swelled  face,  being  among  them.  He  received  his  medicines, 
and  then  was  sent  on  shore  to  remain  with  the  rest  till  we  should 
have  concluded.  On  comingl>ut,  we  found  that  most  of  them  had 
gone  away;  and  we  then  dismissed  some  others,  from  whom  we  pur- 
chased the  deer-skins  which  they  hiad  brought.  We  found,  from  the 
three  men  admitted,  that  the  women  had  departed  under  the  suppo- 
sition that  they  should  be  refused  entrance  into  the  ship:  and  as  these 
[>erpetual  crowds  were  really  inconvenient,  we  took  this  opportu- 
nity of  settling  that  only  five  or  uj(  at  one  time  were  to  come  in 
^ture. 

^e  learned  that  they  had  found  a\  bear,  torpid  in  its  den,  and  had 
-*  it  with  their  knives.  We  offeied  to  buy  it  of  them,  and  they 
ed.  to  bring  it  on  the  follo<wine  day.  We  had  a  specimen  of 
theirXcunning,  in  one  who,  having  a  sore  on  his  1^,  begged  to  have 
a  wooden  leg  made;  .^pecting  thus  to  gain  a  piece  of  timber.  It 
Vras  ea^lv  explained;  that  the  first  conffition  was,  to  cut  o&  the  sore 
Iqg;  whi^  of  course  put  an  end  to  this  applicatitm. 

We  had  now  terminated  the  first  month  in  a  new  year,  and  it  had 
passed  amj  like  a  dream;  our  occupations  and  amusements  had 
been  greatelr  thafi  usual,  and  our  visitors  nrevented  time  from  drag- 
ging on  in  aXiiresome  uniformity.  The  mean  temperature  of  the 
month  had  beW  jninus  25°;  correspcmdingL  as  those  of  the  former 
months  did,  witii  the  means  of  the  other  vograges,  in  the  manner  I 
formerly  stated  Oieae.  This  too  U  considered  the  coldest  month  in 
the  year,  taken  as\a  whole,  in  these  climate^  though  colder  single 
day?  often  occuf  in^February  and  March.  U^had  been  the  most 
stormy  month,  howevW,  for  some  time;  and  the'iijirometQr  was  once 
as  low  as  28  inches.     \  •  \ 

The  health  and  appdtrance  of  the  crew  was  rather  improved  than 
the  reverse:and  the  armourer's  originally  losteasecoitld  not  be  reckon- 
ed among  the  casualties  arising  from  the  climate.  If  he  might  have 
lived  longer  by  remaining  in  England;  the  fault  was  his  own;  since  he 
had  already  sailed  in  these  seas,  and  knew  well  what  he  was  hazard- 
ing, while  keeping  a  secret  which  we  could  not  discoveAtUl  it  was 


i  to  come  in 


TO  TH«  ARCTIC  RTClOlTSi 

,.■.-■  ■   '■  "    :  '■'■■       \\V 

IV      too  late.    He  deserved  pnrise  indeed  for  hia  spirit;  though,  fo^manj 
reasMu,  we  could  have  wished  he  had  acted  otherwise. 

If  ^r^ecting  with  the  Esquimaux  had  heen,  in  many  ways,  in- 
teresting as  well  as  amusing  to  us,  so  wasnt  an  acquaintance  which 
could  be  rendered  serviceable.  They  had  alreadv  furnished  us  with 
some  dresses,  much  more  useful  to  the  men  than  those  which  we  had 
brought  from  England,  and  we  had  reason  to  expect  more.  It  was 
probable  also  that  they  might  supply  us  with  fresh  meat;  thus  ena- 
bling us  to  economise  our  own  stores.  ';' 

The  information  which  they  had  given  us  warof  even  higher  im- 
portance:  while  we  now  also  hoped,  that  by  means  of  their  dogs  and 
sledges,  we  should  be  able  to  examine  a  great  deal  of  the  coast,  so 
as  to  decide  on  our  future  motions  by  sea,  long  before  we  should  be 
released.  # 

In  our  interior  establishment,  every  thing  had  proceeded  with  per- 
fect order  and  comfort,  the  school  promising,  ere  long,  to  produce 
some  able  navigators.    The  observations  by  the  transit  instrument 
had  been  numerous  and  successful.    The  preparations  formatting  a . 
canal  in  the  ice  had  been  continued  as  occasion  oflbfed. 


^- 


\ 


1 


/  f'1 


i 


••^z 


\i 


\, 


; 


Hv 


■*•! 


164 


SEOeRD  V07ACB  or  DISCOVERT 


V  \.  \ 


I 'I 


CHAPTER  XVIII. 


PitjflSring  on  the  part  of  the  nMivea—'ne  JbrttfaU  cf  ttum  this  yedr-^^ 
JVativedance-^Sumtnary  of  the  month.tf  February,      '.a 

Fdt.  lit.  Thbrb  was  anoAther  arrival  of  Ksquimaux,  on  the  fii'st 
day  of  this  new  month,  with  wives  and  children;  and  we  boug^ 
from  thedSithree  skin  dresses;  butibe  bear  continued  to  be  promised. 
The  man  with  the  swelled  face  was  better,  and  brought  a  bow  tha^t 
he  had  proposed  to  give  us.  One  of  the  women  had  an  ornament  ofi 
her  head>  consisting  df  the  head  of'  an  owl,  with  some  ermine  skinl 
The  temperature  was  minus  25P>  and  .the  day  so  cloudy  that  none  of 
the  expected  occultations  in  Tfturus  oould  1>e  observed,  nw  any  ol 
the  moon-culminating  stars.       > 

2ntL  It  did  not  become  cksat*  ^11'  ti^  moon  had  passed  TaurusJ 
and  there  was  nothing  more  to  )>e  observed;  a  mortification  suffi- 
ciently common  with  astronomers.  The  Esquimaux  brought  some 
more  skins,  which  we  bought;  but  not  the  bean  we  had  reason  to 
8usp<^t  that  this  promise  was  not  about  to  be  kept.  '  But  we  had 
now  something  more  to  discuss  with  them:  and  the  event  was  to 
show  that  they  w^re  not  diose  examples  of  absolute  honesty,  which 
we  had  at  first/supposed,  if  much  less  inclined  to  stealing  than 
most  savages  have  proved.  And  whatever  excuses  navigators  have 
made  for  these  races,  from  the  strength  of  the  temptation  when 
iron  has  been  the  subject  of  theft,  they  do  not,  I  fear,  apply  here, 
where  the  objects  stolen  could  be  of  no  use,  if  indeed  I  except  the. 
snuffers;  though,  in  fact,  even  these,  iron  as  they  might  be,  were  not 
likely  to  be  of  much  service,  though  the  hammer  might  be  applied 
to  some  purposes. 

A  large  reading-lens  had  disappeared  for  some  day^  and  I  had 
reason,  on  consideration,  to  suspect  the  conjurer  Otookiu;  the  can<- 
die  having  gone  out,  for  some  time,  in  the  cabin,  after  I  Imd  been 
exhibiting  its  effects  to  him.  This  was  confirm^  afterwards,  by 
his  unwillingness  to  admit  me  into  his  house  at  my  last  visit  to  the 
village.  I  therefore  told  him  that  the  swelled  face  had  been  pro- 
duced by  the  magical  glass,  and  that  it  must  be  returned.  His  con- 
fession immediately  followed,  together  with  a  promise  to  bring  it 
back  on  the  following  day:  without  which,  I  assured  him  that  his 


'^iiiv 


V 


TO  TBB  ABono  WBOIOirS. 


165 


other  cheek  woald  sweH  in  the  same  manner.  It  vtaa  brought 
back  accordingly,  together  with  a  hammer  which  had  disappeared; 
while  the  snuffers  were  admitted,  to  be  in  ^he  posseaaioo  of  one  of 
the  women,  together  with  a  glass  out  of  my  spectacles,  which  oae 
of  the  children  had  fwind^  on  its  having  dropped  out.  The  terror 
of  the  conjurer  was  indeed  so  great,  that  he  brought  back  a  hook 
and  a  harpoon  head  which  I  had  given  him  in  exchange  for  a  bow; 
on  which,  to  preserve  this  probably  useful  ufipreasion  of  terror,  I. 
agreed  to  a  re-exchange.    ?\     ; 

3d.  On  the  preceding  ^a^  "trie  observed  a  transit  of  the  moon,  and 
had  many  observations  of  slars  on  this  one;  the  weather  being  un- 
usually clear.  The  thermometer  was  iirst  as  low  as  38"  minus,  and 
it  afterwards  fell  to  40°.  I'he  Esquimaux  brought  nothing  but  a 
part  of  the  bear's  skin;  but  we'^purchased  a  reindeer  skin  from  them. 
The  spectacle  glass  was  ret\)rned,*and  the  bearer  rewarded  with  a 
tin  canister,  as  this  had  not  beep  a  true  theft.  The  snuffers  also  were 
produced;  and  it  was  then  expbined,  that  if  any  thing  should  here- 
after be  lost,  none  of  the  natives  would  be  suffered  to  come  On  board 
any  more.  Nor  would  we  admit  any  of  them  at  this  time,  that  we 
might  give  a  tangible  proof  of  oiv  resolution,  and  of  our  firnm^s  in 
adhering  to  it. 

4(A.  The  temperature  sank  to  minus  42^  but  the  day  was  clear 
and  calm,  so  that  the  cold  was  not  severe  on  shore.  Some  natives 
came,  and  sold  us  some  dresses,  together  with  the  ornament  made  of 
teeth.  Eight  seals  had  l^n  taken  by  them  in  the  last  two  days. 
They  brought  a  small  pwrt  of  the  bear,  saying  that  they  could  get 
no  more.  A  few  retumjiid  on  the  fc^wing  day,  and,  among  the 
rest,  a  woman  with  a  nursling,  whom  she  took, out  of  her  bag,  and 
exposed  naked  to  the  slir,  ai  the  breast,  with  the  thermometer  at 
minus  4(P.  /  .  > 

fith.  It  rose  to  32°  t»day>  the  weather  continuii^  calm  and  fine. 
The  whole  thirty-one  Esquimaux  came;  and  as  two  had  not  yet  seen 


the  ship,  they  were 
because  he  had  tal 
cal  glass.    I  promi 
days;  and  they  agrf 
they  succeeded  in 


mitted.  The  conjurer  was  in  great  distress 
no  seah)  attributwg  his  ill  luck  to  the  magi- 
that  ^  enchantment  diould  cease>  in  two 
to  bring  us  a  seal  on  the,ibllowii^  day,  if 
king  one.  On  cutting  through  die  ice,  which 
we  had  begun  to  dlo  the  day  before,  it  was  finind  to  be  six  feet 
thick;  beings  im  rease  of  twenty  inches  wiUiin  the  last  month, 
and  givii^  a  greate  tluckness,  by  a  foot  and  a  half,  than  at  the  cor- 
responding season  e  ;  Port  Bowen  in  1825. 

Ith.  The  cold  in<  reased  on  this  Sqnday,  falling  in  the  afternoon 
to  minus  43°.  Of  fii  een  Esquimaux  that  caafe  dongside,  some  were 
adnutted  after  chuich,  and  sold  us  some  excellent  skins.  On  the' 
fdlowiog  day  they]  brought  us  three  more,^d  informed  us  diat 
their  d^  baftAmei  a  bear  on  the  ice,  which  woidd  be  at  their 
houses  on  thaTvllt'^y.    We  proposed  to  purchase  it,  together  with 


*.*! 


V  ' 


«k 


.  F .,%. 


;  .     ■.;T..J| 


tee 


siwoiro  voTAdB  or  dhcovkrt 


it 


a  seal.    The  wipd  changed  veryoften  in  the  course  of  thia  daj,  and 
^  the  thermometeif  rose  to  minus  30°. 

dth.  It  fell  again  to  42*^,  and  (his  weather  was  very  cold  to  the 
feelings.  Nevertheless  we  proceeded  to  the  village,  in  company 
with  bur  principal  friends,  who  had  come  for  us;  liieeting  with  the 
usual  kind  reception:  but  as  neither  bear  nor  seal  had  yet  arrived, 
pur  labour  was  thus  far  lost.  In  returning  against  the  wind,  the 
cold  was  very  sevcTre;  yet  we  visited  the  cairn  which  had  been 
erected  for  one  extremity  of  a  trigonometrical  base,  where  also  we 
had  made  experiments  on  the  velocity  of  sound  at  these  low  tem- 
peratures which  I  shall  have  occasion  to  note  hereafter.  In  the 
eveningi  the  thermometer  sank  to  minus  45". 

We  estimated  on  this  day,  the  tenth  of  February,  that  it  must 
have  sunk  to  48°:  but,  at  this  point,  our  instrument  was  uncertain. 
,  The  Esquimaux  arrived,  with  some  faces  much  frost-bitten,  selling 
us  the  skin  of  n  young  bear  and  some  other  articles.  They  informed 
us  that  the  expected  bear  had  not  jet  arrived.  11th.  There  was  an 
aurora  seen;  but  not  so  marked  in  character  as  to  deqerve  descrip- 
tion. On  the  following  day,  tliey  brought  more  things  for  sale;  the 
wooden-le^ed  man  ano  bringing  a  thimble  and  a  needle  which  one 
of  the  natives  had  either  found  or  stolen;  for  which  he  was  rewarded 
by  a  sail-needle.  j 

12lh.  The  thermometer  rose  four  degrees,  but  the  cold  was  never- 
theless very  severe,  as  indeed  could  not  fdil;  since  a  difference  of 
twenty,^  or  even  of  forty  degrees,  Iniay  say,  at  such  a  temperature 
as  this,  produces  little  dilfereqce  to  the  feelings.  Some  Esquimaux 
Vomen  brought  gloves  {(fiflt  other  thii^  for  sale,  returning  at  noon, 
without  coming  on  board.  It  was  calm  at  nighty  ^lind  the  ther- 
mometer fell,  to  rainu9  46^  On  the  following  day,  more  women, 
with  some  boys,  came  to  sell  other  articles,  and  all  were  bought;  a 
man  also  bringing  his  seal  spear  and  harpoon,  for  which  hfe  received 
his  price.  >% 

14th.  The  sun  had  considerable  power  to<lay,  and  the  ther- 
'mometer  rose  to  3^  Ininua  Aflter  church,  some  Esquimaux  men 
and  women  came,  bringing  some  seal  blubber  for  our  dogs,  and  prcP- 
mismg  a  wh^e  seal  on  the  morrow.  A  gale  had  come  on  last  night, 
with  heavy  sqi^lls,  but  it.  moderated  this  nuHning.  Hie  natives 
came  again  with  some  small  articles,  but  we  refused  to  admit  them 
till  they  should  brin^the  promi^  seal.  Otookia  bpught  ^so  a, 
knife,  havii^  an  fisPkh  maker's  name  on  the  blade;  (faying  that 
he  faad'obtaiited  it  from  those  df  his  nation  who  had  seen  the>  ships . 
formerly  at  ^loolik. 

16th.  The  barometer  rose  to  30°  79',  without  any  apparent  reasini, 
as  the  we^tlier  was  not  so  fine  as  it  had  been  for  some  days  past 
The  teppetature  vacillated  upwards,  till  it  reached  38°  jminus.  A 
native  i^me  in  the  morning  to  say  that  they  had  been  unsuccessful 
in  catching  seals;  and  three  others,  in  the  evening,  confirmed  the  Mune 


\ 


f^- 


X 


TO  THS  AROTIO  MSOIOirS. 


167 


■;?'«■ 


tale.    Some  of  the  officers  ^ent  to  the  village,  but  did  not  procure 
on^.     A  male  fox  wag  caught  in  the  trap. 

nth.  The  sky  was  overcast,  with  some  drift  snow,  and  the  ther- 
mometer rose  to  minus  IG**.'  We  bought  some  articles  brought  by 
the  natives,  but  did  not  suffer  them  to  come  on  boards  But  this  was 
not  the  only  purpoee  of  their  visit;  since  there  tvas  a  general  restora- 
tion, as  we  understood,  of  alt  other  things  which  they  had  purloin^; 
a'n^ong' which,  a  table  knife  from  the  mateV  mess  had  alone  been 
missed.  With  this  there  was  a  piece  of  iron,  another  of  an  iron  hoop, 
and  a  sheave  of  a  block.  The  cause  of  this  repentance  and  restora- 
tion was,  we  found,  to  be  attributed  to  the  guns  which  had  been  ^ 
fired  for  the  purpose  of  the  experiments  on  soUnd.  -  One  of  them  ^i    _,_. 

having'  attended  Commander  Uoss  to  the  observatory,  and  having 
asked  what  the  "guns  said,''  was  informed  that  they  were  naming 
the  thieves  who  bad  taken  our  property,  of  whatever  nature,  from 
the'ship;  on  which  there  was  a  genieral  convocation  held  at  the  vil- 
lage, and  it/  was  agreed  to  f eturn  every  thing.    We  had  to  regret  », 
that  we  poaeased  no  such  powers  of  conjuration  over  the  much  less 
pardonable  thieves  of  our  own  dear  native  land:  among  its  other 
advantages,  the  "march"  of  knowkdge  has  deprived  the  good  of , 
this  power  also,  over  the  evil  ones  of  this  world.    Wha^tithe  rela- 
tive gain  and  loss  may  be  it  is  not  here  my  business  to  discuss;  but 
let  us  recollect,  at  least,  that  it  is  not  all  gain.    At  any  rate,  we 
here  made  use  of  the  advantages  still  in  our  power^  and  therefore 
did  not  lose  the  opportunity  of  confirming  them  in  their  good  inten- 
tions to  "steal  no  more;"  informing  them  consequently  that  this  was 
the  cause  of  their  late  ill  success  in  seal  hunting.    The  failure  of 
this  chace,  with  which  we  had 'become  acquainted,  was  a  piece  of 
knowledge,of  which,  like  many  much  less  pardonable  conjurors,  we          '  .. 
took  this  justifiable  advantage.     . 

The  temperature  rose  as  high  as  ihinus  0°,  an4,  the  ^average  of 
the  day  was  12°;  the  wind  being  from  that  which  wab  always  the  ^ 

warmest  quarter;  north-easterly.  The  natives  brought  the  long 
^promised  4eal  at  last;  but  it  was  so  mutilated  as  to  be  fit  only  for 
the  d(^.  They  desired  also  some  remedies  for  one  of  the  women, 
who  had  been  taken  Jll.  The  surgeon  therefore  went  to  visit  her,  in 
the  sledge,  draWn  by  six  dogs;  and  having  prescribed  for  a  cough  and 
cold,  returned  Vt  nieht  .  , 

10(A.  The  first  fall  of  snow  for  ibis  year  was  to-day,  and  the  tem- 
perature rose  to  minus  7°.  Some  native  women  came,  with  trifling 
articles  for  sale,  and  were  much  gratified  by  the  sight  of  a  sledge 
of  our  own  construction:  this  being  machinery  much  more  withm 
thei^comprehension  than  ,wbat  they  had  generally  seen  with  us, 
and  thus,  I  doubt  not,  giving  them  a  noore  rational  idea  of  oNfr 
^«uperiority,  2(Hh.  The  snow  did  not  last  a  second  day,  an<|  the  wea-  > 
ther  was  cloudy  and  mild.  A  female  fox  was  taken  in  the  trap,  and  • 
vrh  had  thus  the  rnean^  of  procuring  a  breed,  if  we  cboae.    Some 


-s- 


<- 


!   » 


Iff.. 


168 


tmoom  WIMOM  or  DtBOOVSRY 


*-  fi. 


i>  H 


Eaquimaax  arrivedi  and  it  was  lucky  for  our  denunciatlail^  that 
those  who  had  restored  the  stolen  property  had  been  success/iil  in 
the  seal  hunting.  But  ^Heir  faihiHes  were  so  much  in  want,  that 
they  could  not  spare  us  atfy  of  their  capture  '^ 

ilM.  This  was  the  finest  arid  the  wdrmevt  day  that  had  yet  oc- 
curred since  November.  It  was  catih,  and  the  thermometer  con-> 
tinued  risipg  till  it  reached  zero  ^  midnight.  It  may  surprise  an 
English  .reader  to  hear  of  a  warm  day  at  a  temperature  of  32°  under 
the  freezing  point,  but  the  temperaticrrc  of  sensutioif  is  more  relative 
than  is  imagined,  and  the  body  soon  contrives  to. find  a  ncW  and 
much  lower  scale  of  comfortable  or  endurslble  heat.  The  nativei 
arrived,  at  length,  and,  with  a  seal  of  middling  'iri^,  for  which  thej 
received  the  promised  reward  of  a  woman's  knife.  This  is  the  ustMl 
knife  of  the  leather-cutters,  being  a  semicircular  blade;  ftMd  it  in 
used  by  iheta  for  the  same  purposes  as  a  butcher's  knife  is  with  us: 
the  reserved  duty  of  cutting  up  the  seab  beingthe  privilege,  or  tor- 
vice,  be  it  Whichever  it  may,  of  the  fair  sex.  They  were  put  under 
charge  of  the  .watch  duHng  divine  service;  as  we  were  determined  „ 
that  this  should  never  be  interrupted  while  we  had  the  means  of 
performing  it,  We  had  now  learned  to  part,  without  the  usual 
noisy  and  troublespme  ceremonies.  _ 

aSnrf.  The  temperature,  to^ay,  ranged  between  mibus^  1**  and     ; 
2°:  in  other  respects,  it  wiptaild.    Many  hares  were  teen;  but  ffiey 
had  been  so  often  chaipir  that  they  were  now  unapproachable.    ^ 
Some  nnore  skin  diresses^ere,  bought  to-day.    On  the  following,  with     ^ 
a  ck>udy  sky,  the  thermometer  rose  tootie  degree  plus,  apd  rested  tif'  *■■" 
minus  5".    Among  other  articles  bought  this  day,  wa|^l|^  skin  of 
a  glutton;  and  as  it  had  been  taken  in  a  trap  the  day  before,  ^ 
proceeded  to  construct  one,  in  hopes  of  a  similar  prey*    A  seal  was 
also  brought  in  .the  evenidg,  and  a  ptarmigan  was  killed.    This  was 
the  first  day,  for  &  long  time,  that  we  had  both  breakfasted  and 
dined  by  daylight.  /«. 

;  24th,  It  was  a  fine  day,  though  overcast,  with  a  temperature 
generally  about  min^s  5°.    A  fine  hare  was  shot  and  the  new  trap 
finished  and  s^.    More  skjfns  were  purchased; j||ybj^||we,werp  in  a 
fair  way  to  get  an  ampleglupply  of- clothing ^^|t^H|^^    The^y;* 
heat  fell  to  niinus  16°  pnTOe  following  day..  JH^HHp^P*  pHNP^ 
duced  each  a  female  prisoner,  one  of  which  MHHHP^^KiUve.  We 
also  bought  some  sealskin  jackets  from  tb^  natives. 
•.    ,2(ith.  The  weathor  was  much  colder,  though  the  fall  of  the  ther- 
mometerdid  not  exceed  £ve  d^rees.    Tbe  natives  broil|bt  another 

uiiof  a  glutton;  caught  also  but  tbe  dfty  before,  with  tbreg  more 

*  '**    '  ckets..   A  kiiife  was  the  estalHisbed  price  of  all  such' ar- 
ietberfthere  was  any  hdiday  among  them,  or  whether  it 
take^js  a  tribute  of  gratitude,  Ikmallik,  the  geographer,    i, 
^ugbt  bM^  for  tbe  pufpose  of  4reatii^  u«  with  a  dance.  ' 
were  noteless  than  twenty.    Tlw  dance  was  more  like  an 


•  ( 


■i-r 


] 
^1 


f(P***<B?*:t 


TO  THB  AKCTtC  RCfllOlf 


168 


exhibition  of  bears  than  aught  else;  thoueh  a  Savoyard  bear,  at 
least,  must  be  admitted  to  he  the  better  dancer.  The  d^nce  was 
followed  by  a  vocal  concert,  the  women  ranging  themselves  in  a 
semicircle,  shutting  their  eyes,  and  opening  their  mouths,  while  vo- 
ciferating Amna  Aijd  xyith  all  the  po^er  of  their  throats  and  lungs. 
]|^/eatt  that  we  were  qot  musicians  enough  to  analyze  and  (t^timate^ 
^Lf  -^— iijarities  and  merits  of  this  national  music.  The  Esquimaui^?^ 
inland,  whom  we  had  heard,  had  very  different  conceptions 

^  art    It  remains  to  be  tried  by  son)c  one  else,  whether  these 

lople  hlso,  here  an/l  elsewhere  along  this  coast,  have  the  faculty  dP- 
„jusic,  waiting  only  to  be  brought  forward  by  education,  by  bearing  * 
what  they  had  never  yeCheard.  We  should  be  as  unjust  in  pass* 
ing  on'  them  an  unlimited  condemnation,  as  the  early  travellers  in 
Southern.  Africa  had  proved  themselves  in  the  case  of  the  Hptten- 
tots;  who,  under  Moravian  -instruction,  have  surprised  thfiic4eacher8t 
and  even  produced,  as  their  reports-a^,  a  rival  of  CKtalani.  I  must 
add,  that  Ikmallik,  being  the  Cor|Fphfleus4_pr£aum^  continued  daK« 
ing  in  the  centre  of  the  semicincle. 

27/A.  This  day  was  very  6ne,  but  not  so  warm.  The  nativM' 
hrought'  some  trifles  for  sale^  and  the  officers  saw  a  glutton  an# 
a*  hare  during  their  excursion.  28/A.  On  the  Sunday  it  became 
once  moire  cold,  the  thermometer  falliiig  to  31°.  A  fresh  fa^eze 
made  it  severely  felt  during  some  attempts  at  observation  in  thf^^« 
evening^  An  entire  seal,  well  adapted  for  a  specimen,  was  brought 
by  one  of  the  natives,  who  confirmed  also  some  of  the  geographical 
reports  of  the  former  man.  They  departed  so  early  as  not  to  inter* 
fere  with  our  church  service. 

The  ending  of  this  n^pnth  leayes  little  to  be  said  in  th^  way  of  1 
summary.  It  was  a  very  cold/ one;  and  I  now  believe  that  the 
thermometer  must  have  reached  to  minus  50".  The  average  of  the 
first  fourteen  days  was  certainly  not  less  than  40°,  and  might,  have 
been  more;  but  in  the  latter  part  of  the  month,  the  mean  did  not 
exceed  28°;  the  whole  corresponding,  once  more,  to  those  formerly 
noted  as  found  in  former  voyages.  The  osciltfitions  of  fhe  barometer 
were  remarknUe,  as  has  been  noted  in  the  daily  journal,  but  the 
mean  was  30°  11'. 

A  summary  of  the  success  of  the  natives  m  hunting  during  this 
month,  gives  two  whitte  bears,  three  gluttons,  a  dozen  of  foxes,  and^ 
fifty  seals:  and  as  vm  had  also,  ourselves,  l|iUed  or  taken  five  foxes, 
with  some  hares,  ptarmigans,  and  willow  partridges,  this  is  a  country 
not  so  destitute  of  game,  even  at  this  time  of  the  year,  as  has  been  - 
generally  supposed;  while  it  is  thus  proved  that  they  do  not,  migrate 
to  the  soutiMn  winter.  -  ,    ,   ' 

In  bur  internal  comforts  and  the^  satisfaction  of  the  men,  there 
was  na  alteration:  all  had  gone  on  well.    Some  valuable  observa* . 
tions  had  been  added  to  our  astronomical  collection,  and  many  ex-^ 
-,■82,  ,  ,  .  ,    '      '  '     ■ 


v> 


-^v 


,K 


^^i- 


m 


X:% 


fitodORA  VOYAOK  or  DIflOOVBRT 


fsrimentll^sound'made.  Of  our  communicatioDB  with  the  natives' 
have  nothing  more  to  remark;  except  that  we  hacTcome  to  a  per- 
fect •understanding  respectiiig  the  price  of  each  article  of  sale  which 
they  brought.  Their  pilf(Smg8,  there  was  reason  to  hope,  were  at 
^n  eftd:  but  it  was  certain  that  they  considered  these  acts  no  vast 
crime*  since  the  detectim  generally  produced  Ifiughter. 


,   f 


/ 


■  •:  f' 


,  1    ,....  •  ■ 


•'-*> T ■■•  "*>r" * •  ••"' »«yf '»'>-WMt— ••►■■^■>^.~-~'-"..  t^*4. , 


TO  THB  AUCTIO  RBOIOIf  S. 


171 


CHAPTER  XIX. 


Purchase  of  dogs  from  the  nativat— Commander  Rots  departs  on  «r 
expedition  to  the  native  huU,  for  infomation-'Process  of  bmlding 
snow  huts-'Summttry  df  the  mMh  of  March. 

March  W.  It  was  an  eitreively  cold  moroing,  but,  to  the  feelingB 
more  than  to'the^li^eniionLeteifi^  Two  of  the  natiTe»  arriving,  I  ac 
cortpanied  them  in  a  wrilk,  where  they  pointed  out  a  better  place 
for  a  trap  to  catch  the  gliktton;  it  being  in  a  pasB  which  they  use  m 
going  to  the  northward. .  Wne  of  them  was  persuaded  to  sell  one  of 
his  best  d<«8:  which  was  warranted  for  keeping  at  bay  a  bear  or  a 
musk  ox,  f<<D  finding  seal  hbles,  and  for  drawing  a  sledge.  With  such 
qualities,  it  was  cheaplyi|>ttircha8ed  for  a  knife.  As  nothing  else  was 
offiired  for  sale,  wtt  concluded  that  they  had  parted  with  all  their 
disposable  articles!         /  ^  ,       '       ^         _ 

2nd.  Another  dog  wais  bought  this  day,  to  complete  our  team:  I 
could  not  venture  to  byy  more  at  present,  lest  we  should  not  be  able- 
to  feed  them.  They  brought  ua  an  account  of  the  death  of  the  old 
man  vThom  we  had  remarked  at  our  first  meeting.  W^  had  not 
seen  him  since  that  dfy;  and,  on  inquuy  when  at  the  village,  were 
informed  he  was  aslefep;  though  he  was  not  in  the  hut  then  pomted 
out,  as  we  ascertained,  virhile  there  was  one  shut  up.  The  solution 
of  whatever  iitysterV  there  bight  be  in  this  matter,  was  necessarily 

deferred.  /  ,  .  ,        ;.        j  *    j    ' 

3d.  The  natives  brought  us  a  fine  remdeer  skin;  and  promised  an- 
other seal.  Haay  wea&er  continuing,  y^evented  lall  observations. 
The  following  day  fcvas  colder,  becaii^  therttn^as  more  wind;  but  in- 
cluding both,  the  temperature  ranged  between  minus  24°  and  88°. 
A  bear-skin  was  birought;  and  we  underatood  that  two  parties  were 
about  to  be  detached,  one  to  the  northwai:d,  aAd  the  olher^astward 
od  the  ice,  for  thfpurpose  of.  catching  stiab,  ^ut  that  they  wouM 
soon  return  to  Wtch  for  the  animals  nvhicU  were  then  expected  to 
be  migrating  from  the  Bouthvrard.  .  \     I 

6tk.  There  wis  litUe  change  in  the  weathier.  Two  women  came 
to  inform  us  thatthe  rest  had  all  gone  to  build  tome  huts  further  t© 
the  eastward,  oh  the  ice,  near  the  isbuid  that  ^as  in  sight;  and  that 


•  '^•sls'* 


/ 


ITS 


SEOOirO  VOTAGG  or  DieOOVERV 


they  were  to^^oin  them  in  the  evening.  The  distance,  therefort, 
could  not  be  great.  The  dead  man  was  said  to  be  <lot  yet  buried: 
and  when  some  of  our  officers  afterwards  visited  the  village,  they 
found  nothing  altered,  except  that  some  of  the  entrances  were  de- 
molished, and  the  i^  windows  removed. 

tt/A.  The  sun  ha^ower  enough,  while  it  lasted^  to  raise  the  tem- 
perature from  38°  to  18°  minus,  but  it  then  fell  to  24°.  The  huts 
were  revisited  by  the  same  party,  who  found  the  corpse  of  Illicto  in 
one  of  them,  in  the  posture  in  which  he  seemed  to  nave  died.  An 
incision  in  the  abdomen  had  been  evidently  made  after  death;  and 
as  they  had  not  removed  him,  we  supposed  that  they  considered  his 
present  place  a  sufficient  tomb;  at  this  season  of  the  year,  perhaps 
the  best,  or  only  one.  A  hole  was  cut  in  the  ice,  and  a  tide-pole 
inserted;  by  which  we  found  a  rise  oC  four  feet  and  a  half.  An  un- 
lucky cloud  robbed  us  of  a  very  promising  observation* 

7m.  No  Esquimaux  interfered  with  the  present  Sunday.  Tj^ 
weather  was  fine,  and  the  temperature  not  very  difierent.  We  cou 
now  observe  the  tides,  which  were  very  irregular;  bq|t  the  extreme 
rise  was  nearly  six  feet  On  the  Monday,  it  was  but  one  foot  eight 
inchfi  in  the  morning,  but  was-five  feet  three  in  the  evening.  Two 
old  females  came,  and  informed  us  that  five  seals  Jiad  been  taken: 
and  we  killed  a  fox. 

9/A.  It  was  fine  and  calm  weather,  with  a  full  moon.  The  irre- 
gularity in  the  ebbs  and  flows,  and  in  the  heights  of  the  tides,  was 
extreme.  Two  of  our  officers  walkied  to  the  new  town  on  the  ice, 
which  proved  to  be  about  seven  miles  off.  They  found  five  fami- 
lies, that  had  been  very  successful,  having  taken  a  great  many  seals. 
The  rest  had  gone  al>out  fifteen  miles  to  the  northward.  Com- 
mander Ross  went  in  the  sledge,  about  the  same  distance,  to  the 
south-westward;  and  though  he  could  see  land  all  round,  he  could 
not  determine  whether  or  not  it  was  continuous;  although  the  coast 
seemed  entirely  skirted  with  islands.  Some  natives  came  in  a  sledge, 
and  brought  us  some  very  acceptable  smoked  salmon. 

lOtA.  The  temperature  rose  to  minus  12°  in  the  course  of  the  day; 
and  the  tides  were  as  irregular  as  usual.  Two  sets  of  the  natives 
arrived  from  their  different  new  estttblishments,  bringing  us  a  good 
doe  and  two  seals,  which  we  bought,  with  some  shoes  and  other  ar- 
ticles; treating  them,  in  addition,  with  a  good  dinner.  Two  of  them 
built  us  a  snow  hut  for  our  instrumients,  and  consented  to  remain  all 
night,  if  we  would  return  with  them  in  the  morning.  They  had 
killed  thirteen  seals,  and  were  amply  stored  with  provisions.  A 
good  supper  for  tl)em  followed  the  good  dinner;  but  when  it  was 
time  for  rest,  although  there  was^a  good  bed  for  each,  one  waked 
while  the  other  slept.  Whether  this  was  suspicion  or  ceremony,  we 
could  not  discover.  Our  school  seemed  to  surprise  them  even  as 
much  as  the  kaleidoscope. 

IKA.   The  thermometer  ranged  from  14°  to  82**  minus,  being 


TO  THE  A'RCTIO  RBGIOITS. 


178 


coldeV  than  it  had  heen  for  some  days;  .hut  the  iweather  was  very 
fine.  We  found  that  when  it  had  become  very  late  in  the  morning, 
both  our  visiters  had  consented  to  fall  asleep:  perhaps  their  suspi- 
cions were  quieted.  Their  breakfast,  consisting  of  five  or  six  pounds 
of  seal  each,  seemed  a  highly  satisfactory  one  to  them:  we  had 
judged  as  incautiously  in  measuring  theiir  appetite  as  their  tastes^bj 
our  own:  but  a  special  larder  was  admitted  to  be  necessary,  if  we 
were  to  give  dintier  parties.  The  nine'cooks  of  Prince  Talleyrand 
would  scarcely,  with  all  their  art  and  means,  have  prepared  a  dm- 
ner  for  nine  Esquimaux,  capable  of  influencing  their  poltHcs  or  di- 
plomacy. In  return,  however,  for  this  luxurious  breakfast,  they 
cdmpleted  the  snow  hut  for^ur  observatory:  while  the  neatne^  of 
"the  workmanship  was  the  least  part  of  the  merit,  since,  excludii^ 
perfectly  the  annoyance  of  wind  or  cold  air,  it  was  sufficiently 
transparent  to  allow  us  to  read  off  the  instruments.       "   ^ 

At  ten.  Commander  Ross  went  away  in  our  sledge,  drawn  by  a 
team  of  six  good  dogs,  in  company  with  Ikmallik,  the  geographer. 
A  parly  <^  our  own  men  were  sent  out  to  erect  more  cairns  for  our 
trigonometrical  operations.  Some  of  the  natives  arrived  to  fetch 
away  the  other  man,  Nulungiak,  who,  on  coming  upon  deck;,  took 
up  a  loaded  gun,  which  went  ofi"  in  hii  hands;  luckily  doing  no  mis- 
chief, but  giving  him  such  a  fright,  that  he  was  little  likely  to  touch 
a  gun  a^in  for  some  time. 

12<A.The  tides  and  their  irregularities  need  not  be  recorded, 
though  the  latter  continued;  since,  thus  far,  they  haid  led  to  no  in- 
ferences; not  even  to  those  which  we  had  formerly  drawn.  What- 
ever mystery  there  might  be,  respecting  thw  subject,  we  had  to  wait 
for  the  solution.  The  temperature  subsided  as  low  as  minus  35°,  in 
the  night,  and  did  not  exceed  IS*"  in  the  day.  In  the  morning,  two 
of  the  d<^8,  which  had  escaped  from  the  sledge,  returned  to  the 
ship,  and  a  third  was  -brought  back  by  a  native,  its  former  master, 
tip  whose  new  hut  it  had  found  its  way.  H^  well  deserved  the.  re- 
ward he  received  for  his  honesty;  and  we  also  bought  from  him, 
notwithstanding  our  former  resolutions,  another,  which  was  distin- 
guished as  a  bear  hunter.  In  no  long  time,  Commander  Rass  return- 
ed from  his  expedition,  accompanied  by  some  natives  bringing  a  seal. 
He  had  found  their  huts  on  the  ice,  about  twelve  miles  to  the  north- 
eastward, amounting  to  ten,  and  had  been  very  kindly  treated;  his 
supper  being  from  a  young  seal,  of  which  he  made  a  fjivourable 
report.    Their  success  had  been  considerable. 

13/A.  The  cold  increased,  with  a  breeze,  but  did  not  prevent  the 
natives  from  bringing  a  young  seal  which  they  had  promised,  and 
part  of  a  musk  ox.  ^Besides  the  price  of  their  articles,  they  were 
treated  with  a  dinner,  and  departed  well  pleased.  The  week  was 
concluded  with  the  usual  work  and  proceedings  of  Saturday  and 
Saturday  night  J  ^n  ± 

Uth.  The  cold  went  on  increasing,  and  the  therfhwieter  fell  to 


« 


174 


'SEOOITD  VOTAGB  OF  DISOOVERIT 


minus  40°.  The  merGurv  can  freeze  in  the  bulb  of  this*  instrument , 
without  breaking.it.  Whatever  expansion  it  may  undergo  on  crjs-/ 
taliization,  if  indeed  that  which  has  been  supposed  be  true,  the  in-^ 
crease  of  bulk  is  not  adequate  to  this  effect.  It  is  more  likely  that 
if*  it  does  not  contract,  like  silver  and  bismuth,  and  many.othe 
^  metals,  it  does  not  at  least  vary  its  dimensions  considerably.    I  ha 

fully  ascertained  thai  it  must  have  often  thus  frozen,  without  haviiiig 
destroyed  the  bulb,  by  having  broken  one  of  the  instruments,  at/  a 
temperature  which  had  frequently  occurfed  without  injury,  dnd  > 
having  found  it  in  a  solid  state.    Some  natives  came  to-day  from  the 
^  northern  party;  bringing  two  seals  With  a  dog  in  place  of  one  tliat 

we  Jiad  returned.    A*  dinner,  which,  after  such  journeys,  had /be- 
come a  sort  of  indispensable  civility,  sent  them  home  very  happy. 
-~-^—        A  disagreeable  accident  happened  on  board,  to  one  of  the  Ichil- 
dren  of  this  party.    Being  in  the  habit  of  licking  their  dbhea  and 
other  utensils,  as  well  as  each  other^s  faces,  the  creature  applied  his 
tongue  to  the  iron  hoop  on  a  cask,  and  was  not  released  wilthout 
leaving  the  skin  behind.    We  found  the  meat  of  the.  musk  ox/ to  be 
very  good  beef,  and  without  the  musky  flavour,  which  may  p<^ibly 
occur  only  at  a  particular  season.    Vj^h  seven  dc^s  accustortted  to 
this  chace,  we  had  thus  a  prospect  of  oHng  able  hereafter  ip  sup- 
ply our  crew  with  a  proportion  of  A^h  provisions.  \  4f 
I5th.  The  weather  became  so  much  milder,  that  the  thei^mome- 
-^            ter  rose  to  minus  1-5''.    A  lai^e  party  of  natives  came  on  board, 
and  nine  of  them  remained  to  dinner.    A  better  dog  was  brt>ught, 
in  lieu  of  one  that  bad  been  returned;  and  we  found  that  they  had 
taketx  five  seals.    1 6lh.  The  temperatu  re  fell  again  to  minus  38"  on  the 
..      ^              following  day,  and  we  received  another  visit  from  a  party  which 
•«            brought  us  a  small  seal,  a  sledge  made  of  the  bones  and  skin  of  the\ 
musk  ox,  and  some  boots  and  gloves.    We  heard  also  that  there  \9h^ 
■  a.  new  party  of  Esquimaux  about  two  days'  journey  from  us  to  the 
,     .                 southward. 

ink.  The  men  under  Commander  Ross  had  been  employed  for 
some  time  in  measuring  a  base  for  the  trigonometrical  operations; 
.  '  '  ■  and  this,  work  was  still  going  on,  in  spite  of  the  cold,  which  to-day 
was  minus  40°.  Some  of  the  natives  arrived,  with  the  boy  Kawalua, 
an  orphan,*  and  the  nephew  of  the  gec^rapher  Ikmallik.  It  was  he 
that  I  had  marked  out  as  the  most  fitting  to  be  taken  on  board  and 
instructed;  and- he  therefore  remained,  on  the  return  of  the  others, 
commencing  his  attendance  at  the  school  on  the  same  evening. 

IQth.  It  being  a  fine  day,  (Commander  Ross  took  a  journey  in  the 
s1e{lge  about  thirty  miles  tol  the  southward,  returning  in  the  even- 
"^  ing;  and  having  taken  the  Esquimaux  boy  with  him,  he  received  ' 

much  informatiom  By  his  aocoui  t,  they  had  reached  half  the  way,  to 
Neitchille,  and  it  was  not,  t^ereibre,  so  far  off  as  we  had  imagined; 
i  „  while  his  information  respecting  plf^ces  agreed  so  well  with  what 

we  had  heard  before,  as  to  assure'  us  of  his  accuracy.    He  also 


TO  THE  ARCTIC  RBOIORS. 


..^_-!ii? 


175 


i*iiutrament , 


described  a  place  where  they  were  obliged  to  cross,  in  their  caDoes* 
a  stream  of  salt  water  that  was  Always  flowing  to  the  eastward, 
and  which,  could  never  be  passed  in  any  other  manner.  As  this 
was  not  more  than  a  two  days'  journey,  by  his  account,  we  hoped 
.^'soon  to  be  able  to  explore  it,  and  ascertain  the  nature  of  this  strait 
atidcurrent.  He  savt,  in  this  excursion,  the  tracks  of  a  glutton 
aJjiof  a  reindeer,  but  no  living  animal    In  the  course  ^  the  day. 


anc 


our  friends  brought  us  a  fine  seal  and  its  young  one.  In  my  own 
walk,  I  found  the  tracks  of  hares  and  foxes  in  much  greater  num- 
ber than  formerly;  and  two>  ravens  from  the  northward  flew  over 
the  ship. 

19th.  The  natives  brought  only  trifles  this  day,  and  we  allowed 
the  boy  to  go  back  with  them,  under  a  promise  of  his  retuiDing  <m^ 
the  following.  They  brought  us  then  some  more  gloves  and  boc^'^ 
with  a  fine  dog;  as  we  were  nbw  making  up  a  second  team;  trusting 
that  we  should  be  able  to  feed  them  hereafter  in  some  manner,  at 
least  as  well  as  thpir  original  masters.  Mr.  Thom  ^and  the  sui^eoh 
set  out  to  walk  to  a  rock  which  was  determined  by  the  survey  to  be 
ten  miles  off,  but  were  overtaken  by  night  in  returning,  and  did  not 
arrive  till  very  late,  nearly  exhliusted,  after  having  given  us  some 
alarm.  Nothing  oLmoment  was  seen  from  the  point  in  question,  as 
the  Weather  was  hazy.    I  shot  two  ptarmigans. 

2Ut.  This  was  a  day  of  most  capricious  weather,  exhibiting  all 
kinds  of  changes,  but  with  an  increase  of  temperature  to  13°  iliinus. 
After  church  service,  some  natives  came  to  inquire  into  the  mean- 
ing of  the  guns  and  the  blue  lights  which  we  bad  fired  and  burnt 

^  as  signals  to  the  missing  officers;  having  been  much  terrified  by 
^m.  The  dog  was  brought,  but  o<&  of  our  own*  disappeared  in 
return,  having  probably  broke  loose  to  folk>w  its  own  marter.    We 

,^,^buld  now  easily  treat  them  with  bmled  seal,  and  thus  could  always 
affi>rd  to  give  them  dinner. 

22nd.  Uk  the  day,  the  thermometer  riose  as  high  as  minus  BP,  sink- 
ing to  28°  at  night  Two  women  brdught  '^k  thg  absent  dog,  but 
were  sent  home  for  a  swivel  which  was  missing  from  the  harness.  A 
little  snow  fell  on  the  folk>wii^  day,  and  the  heat  rose  to  V  plus.  The 
swivel  was  returned,  and  a  party  from  the  other  station  brought  us 
a  seal,  which  was  bought  for  an  old  file,  being  the  article  now  in 
demand.  We  attempted  to  clear  away  the  snow  from  our  bowa^ 
but  the  water  came  up  and  obliged  us  to'desist. 

84/A.  The  temperature  rpse  to  plus  16°,  and  it  was  thus,  a  mild 
day:  the  mean  qf  the  twenty-four  hours  being  1^  plus.    Parties  from 

'   each  of  the  new  stations  arrived,  and  a  stray  dog  was  brought  back. 
■  A  dinner  was  repaid  by  the  national  song  and  danc&    A  breeze 

-  from  the  north,  mi  the  fpllowing  day,  tewered  the  temperature  to 
I^us  5°,  and  made  it  cold  to  the  feefingi  Together  with  a  party 
<sami9  two  rneti  to  settle  with  us  about  a  journey  to  Neitcnillee: 
when  it  was  anranged  that,  they  should  sleep  on  board  three  or  Ibar 


XI  / 


'      \i 


M. 


%   '   writeln.i'iyC^ 


no 


SECOND  VOTAGB  OF  DISCOVERT 


days  before  the  next  full  moon,  which  would  be  about  the  fiAh  of 
April,  and  then  attend  Commander  Ross.  They  were  to  bring  their 
canoes,  as  we  understood,  for  the  purpose  of  pursuing  the  deer  in 
the  water. 

26<A:  There  was  no  material  change  in  the  weather,  and  every 
thing  proceeded  in  the  Usual  mannen;  except  that  the  men  were  em- 
ployed in  cutting  a  dock  on  the  larboard  side  of  the  ship,  where  we 
iveretroubled  by-a  leak.  The  tides  ought  to  have  been  high  to-day, 
but  it  was  Jtte  reverse;  the  usual  irregularities  continuing.  A  cold 
breeze  on  the/ollowing,  did  not  prevent  our  receiving  a  vis^t;  but 
we  had  now  no 'dinner  to  give,  and  informed  them  thatihey^must  not 
expect  any  more  till  they  brought  us  some  seal. 

28th.  lliere  was  a  strong  breeze  with  some  snow  in  the  night; 
and  the  weather  was  so  thick  that  it  prevented  n^ny  visit  from  the^ 
Esquimaux:  in  consequence  of  which  we  hii4  a.  quiet  Sunday,  and 
were  well  pleased  to  be  alone.  A  clear  day  following,  enabled  us 
to  get  some  good  observations,  particularly  two  lunar  distances 
with  the  sun  west  of  the  moon;  of.  the  more  importance,  because 
all  our  former  ones  were  under  the  contrary  position.  A  man  and 
a  woman  came;  but,  bringing  no  seals,  were  not  admitted  on  board. 
The  thermometer  rose  to  plus  15"  at  noon,and  the  mean  was  about 
zero.  ■  .  V  . 

30(A.  The  therinometer  rose  to  18"  plus,  being  the  highest  d^ree 
it  had  attained  for  many  months.  An  Esquimaux  brought  some 
skins.  The  following  day  was  emfEilly  overcast,  and  felt  warmf  4he  ' 
thermometer  being  At  20P  for  three  hours-,  and.  not  falling.  beMw 
4°  plus.  In  the  evening,  four  families  of  the  natives,  comprising 
fifteen  persons,  passed  the  ship  to  erect  new  huts  about  half  a  mile 
to  the  southward.  They  had  four  heavy  laden  sledges^drawn,  each, 
by  two  or  three  dogs,  but  proceeded  very  slowly.  We  went  after 
them  t6  see  the  process  of  building  the  snow  house,  and  were  sur- 

S>rised  at  their  dexterity;''one  man  having  closed  in  his  roof  Within 
brty-five  minutes.    A  tent  is  scarcely  pitched  .sooner  than  a  house 
is  here  built; 

•  The  whole  process  is  perhaps  worth  describing.  Having  ascer- 
tained, by  the  rod  used  in  examining  seal  holes,  whether  the  snow 
is  sufficiently  deep  and  solid,  they  level  the  intended  spot  by  a 
wooden  shovel,  leaving  beneath  a  solid  mass  of  snow  not  less  than 
three  feet  thick.  Commencing  then  in  the  centre  of  the  intended 
circle,  which  is  ten  feet  or*  more  in  diameter,  different  wedge- 
shaped  blocks  are  cut  out,  about  two  feet  long,  and  a  foot  thick  at 
the  outer  part;  then  trimming  them  accurately  by  the  knife,  they 
proceed  upwards,  until  the  courses,  gradually  inclining  inwards,  ter- 
minate in  a  perfect  dome'.  The  door  being  cut  out  from  the  inside, 
before  it  is  quite  closed,  serves  to  supply  the  upper  materials.  In 
the  mean  time  the  women  are  employed  in  stuffing  the  Joints  with 
mow,  and  the  boys  in  c^structing  kennels  for  the  dogs.    The  fay- 

-: '■     ~:       ■  ■    '     V    , 


4 


^v 


TO  THB  ARCnO  REOIORS. 


177 


ing  the  snow  s6fit  \vith  skins,  and  the  insertion  of  the  ice  \4rindow,/ 
copiplete  the  vidrk;  the  passage  only  remaining  to  he  added,  as/ 
it  is  after  the  house  is  finbhed,  together  with  some  smaller  huts  for 
stores.  Some  of  th^  children,  in  the  mean  time,  were  aping^their 
parents  in  a  toy  architecture  of- their  own.  One,  whose  hand  had 
been  bitten'  by  a  dog,  was  taken  on  boaf d  to  the  surgeon;  and  live 
supplied  them  with  water,  to  save  them  the  trouble  of  thawing  for 
themselves. 

The  summary  of  the  month  of  March,  now  ended,  does  not  present 
much  variety.  The  minimum  temperature  had  been  minus  40°,  the 
highest  plus  20°;  the  mean  being  minus  20°,  and  thus  one  degree 
greater  than-thatof  the  former  voyages,  as  formerly  compared.  The 
. .  ice  was  dissolving,  though  slowly,  on  the  south  side  of  the  ship,  and 
the  rocks  were  bared  of  snow  by  the  sun. 

Our  trade  with  the  natives  had  produced  a  good  stock  of  clothing 
an^  skins;  and  having  got  rid  of  two  of  our  own  dogs,  which  were 
useless,  we  had  purchased  eight  new  ones,  thus  having  a'  good  team 
■  of  ten.    The  information  acquired  respecting  NeitchUlee^  led  us  to' 
think  that  a  passage  westward  must  exist  there;  the  moi'e  detailed 
account  of  the  Ofitives  being,  that  there  is  really  a  strait  to  the 
northward  of  it,  conimunicating  with  a  sea  ix>  the  westward,  and 
presenting  a  strong  eilterljr  current    In  this  channel  also  they  men« 
tioned  some  islands,  called  by  them  Shag-a-voke,  lugnifying  strong 
_    stream;  further  saying,  that  the  waves  m  this  plaice  often  broke 
^  very  highi    Besides  aU  this,  theyjlescribed  anQth|r  channel  to  the 
"^northward,  by  which  the  ship  could  go.  better  anto  an  open  sea 
where  no  land  was  to  be  seen.    Though  now  on  terms  of  entire  con- 
fidence, the  intended  pupil  bad  not  been  persuaded  to  remain,  nor 
'  could  we  obtain  any  substitute.    He  had  not  returned  after  his  first 
departure  on  what  we  had  believed  a'  mere  holiday  or  leave  of  ab- 
sence.   The  lane  of  gravel  on  the  ice,  intended,  through  the  action 
of  the  sun.  on  it,  to  thaw  a  channel  for  us,  before  it  would  naturally 
break  up,  had  been  finished;  and  the  dogs  and  sledges  were  in  good 
training  and  order.    All  our  internal  arrangements  continued  satis- 
;     factory,  and  all  were  in  perfect  health.  Game  had  been  very  scarce;' 
^    .the  four  foxes  constituted  our  chief  captures.    The  highest  tide  had 
'  been  tix  feet;  the  mean  of  the  barometer  30  inches. 

The  triangulation  had  proceeded:  but  the  observations  in  this 
month,  respecting  occultations  by  the  moon,  wiere  not  more  success- 
ful than  formerly.  It  was  alwayd  cloudy  at  those  times.  Some  tran- 
sits and  lupar  distances  were  of  value.  It  is  lastly  worthy  of  remark, 
be  it  explained  as  it  may,  if  indeed  it  be  a  steady  fact,  which  we  do 
not  yet  know,  that  all  the  coldest  days  occurred  near  the  time  of 
the  full  moon,  and  a  little  after,  and  that  the  temperature  was  high- 
est immediately  after  the  change.  |4 


»^ 


■}■ 


b 


1^' 


.'04. 


H 


178 


SECOWD  VOTAGB  OF  MSCOYKBT 


CHAPTER  XX. 


Proceedings  to  the  tenth  ^  April— Journey  and  narrative  of  Commander 

April  IH.  TaGRB  was  snow,  with  a  mucb  lower  temperature  and 
a  cold  breeze.  «  The  natives  came  to  us  from  all  their  quarters;  and 
Awack,  the  future  guide  to  Neitctrillee,  was  especially  welcome. 
The  nearest  party  had  been  unsuccessful  in  seal  hunting.  The  next 
day  was  like  the  summer  to  the  feelin^^s,  and  the  thermometer  rose 
to  plus  22°.  The  Esquimaux  were  stul ^unsuccessful,  and  be^n  to 
fear  they  should  be  short  of  provinons,  Seeing  the  sextant  in  use 
for  an  obseiWtion,Jthey  were  very  desirous  to  know  if  it  related  to 
seals,  and  if  we  saw  any.  The  sun  was  sufficient  to  dr^  the  washed 
clothes,  and  the  melt«i  snow  was  every  where  flowing  in  water 
down  the  rocks. 

Sd*  A  seal  was  brought*  and  exchai«ed  for  a  file;  but  there  was 
stilt  a  failure  of  tl^s  hunt.  In  proof  of  the  effect  of  external  heat 
on  our  arrangements  within,  the  quantity  of  ice  in  the  condensers, 
this  week,  was  btit  two  bushels.  It  was  A  few  d^rees  colder  than 
yesterday:  but  it  now  became  necessary  to  build  a  snow  wall  round 
the  pillar  to  which  the  thermometer  was  atta<phed,  to  protect  it  from, 
the  reflected  heat  of  the  surrouivding  snow. 

4th.  Sunday  did  not  prevent  the  natives  coming  from  all  quarter^ 
but  we  did  not  alk>w  them  to  impede  us  in  our  usual  duties.  Among 
them,  Awack  and  Ooblooria,  the  two  promised  guides,  came  with 
the$r  sledges,  d<^  and  provisions;  and -all  the  former  information  was 
confirmed.    Our  own  preparation  for  the  joumev  had  been  com- 

51eted,  and  the  officers  that  were  to  accompany  tnem  were  ready, 
'heijijiermometer  f<^ll  to  minus  €P  at  night, 
fi^  The  weather  was  cloudy,  with  a  mbderate  breeze^  which,  l)e- 
ing  frbm  the  north-eastward,  was  favpnrable  for  travelling.  Com- 
mand^ Ross,  with  the  chief  miate,  B|uiky,  and  the  two  E^uimaux, 
departed  at  ten,  on  two  sledges,  with  ten  days'  provjsions:  but  the 
thermometer  falling  to  minus  4°,  yre  were  concerned  that  their  de- 
parture had  not  been  delayed.-Stul  more  unfortunately,  snow  began 
to  fall  at  one  o'clock*  andriy  evaiin^,  there  was  a  gale  of  wind* 

'    ■    ,-■■■■"     ■-      '•        '    ^       '  ■'■■/■■ 


*c 


TO  THE  AKOnO  fUMIOITS. 


179 


■^. 


which  we  feared-  would  arrert  them  entirely.  Our  consolation  was,  ^ 
that  our  two  officers  had  with  them  the  most  experienced  and  active 
of  the  Esquimaux  guides,  and  that  they  would  therefore  be  housed 
in  good  time.  The  natives  fi*om  tiie  eastward  brought  us  a  fine  seal, 
and  we  were  thus  enabled  ta  afford  some  assistance  to  Tiagashu's 
family,  which  seemed  to  be  in  want. 

6th.  It  continued  to  blow  fresh,  with  snow,  shifting  from  the  north- 
yrard  to  the  eastward;  yet  the  thermometer  became  plus  21°  at  noon: 
while,  in  thp  evening,  it  went  round  to  the  south.  A  blue  light  was 
hoisted,  and  a  signal  rocket  thrown  up,  to  indicate  the  ship's  place 
to  the  travellers.    At  night,  the  wind  moderated  a  little. 

1th.  This  morning  was  again  stormy,  with  drift  and  falling  snow; 
hut,  towards  evening,  it  became  calm  and  clear.  The  same  signals 
were  then  repeated,  though  we  hoped  the  party  would  have  reached 
Neitchillee.  Some  of  our  neighbours  came  to  beg  food;  and  as  their 
huts  were  knwvn  to  be  «mpity,  we  supplied  them  with  some  seal's 
flesh.  The  next  day  was  still  snowy,  but  calm  at  first,  folk>wed  by 
variable  winds  in  the  course  o(  the  altemoon.  Mine  Esquimaux  came 
for  meat,  of  which  we  fortunately  had  some  still  remaming;  and  they 
were  wa  hungry  that  they  devoured  the  seal's  flesh  raw;  not,  how- 
ever, forgetting  to  take  some  home  to  their  families.  The  men  were 
now  making  various  preparations  ob  board  for  the  summer:  the  sig- 
nals were  repeated  ut  night 

9th.  The  snow,  was  still  worse,  and  the  drift  ohscHred  every  thing; 
"the  wind  finally  settling  in  a  heavy  gale  from  the  south-westward. 
The  rocket  was  repeated  at  night,  and  at  the  hour  agreed  on,  namo- 
ly,  ten  o'clock;  attention  to  the  ship's  place  being  first  secured  by  a 
blue  light:  rince,  by  this  method,  the  longitude  of  the  expedition 
could  be  ascertained  through  the  chronometer.  The  Esquimaux 
came  but  brought  nothing.  One  of  our  foxes  escaped,  and  probably 
fell  into  their  hands.    The  thermometer  sank  to  nnnUs  13°. 

10th.  The  gale  decreased,  and  it  became  moderate  by  nine.  At 
five  in  the  evening  our  par^  returned,  after  a  very  laborious  jour- 
'  ney,  and  much  suffering  from  the  cold,  but  without  any  serious  acci- 
ddk  They  had  seen  the  sea  to  the  westward,  and  were  confident 
that  we  were  now  on  the  coast  of  America.  The  channel  of  which 
we  had  heard  as  leading  to  the  sea,  vrasstiH,  however,  uncertaiin 
there  being  two  inlets  a  little  to  the  northward  of  our  harbour,  with 
apparently  equal  claims  as  yet,  while  it  might  also  exist  in  what  ha* 
been  termed  Cresswell  bay,  in  latitude  72°  30'.  But  the  narrative 
of  Commander  Ross  must  be  given  in  his  own  words. 


_-iE:~'' "  '.Vis^r, 


,  ..w^;»-'ywTiM9w#»»*'  -^  ■■     ^-^^^iomsimr  ^  -wre^ 


180 


SECOND  VOTAOll  Or  DISOOVBRT 


CHAPT^  XXI. 


/ 


* 


Narrative  of  Camtndnder  Itoss.  '*      , 

April  5th.  ^be  morning  was  far  from  proving  favourab1|l  for  our 
journey,  as  it  snowed  hard,  and  there  was  a  fresh  iy)r|l^»^  wind: 
my  guides,  indeed,  disliked  the  look  of  the  weather  so  tr^Ch,  that 
they  were  Very  desirous  of  deferring  the  expedition  to  aAbtb^r  day. 
1  still  hop9d>  however,  that  it  would  improve;  and  as  I \was  anxious 
to  reach  the  spot  which  we  had  been  looking  to  with  so  much  desire 
and  intef  (est,  i*e  at  length  prevailed  on  them,<and  set  off  at  si^  in  the 
morning.  - 

Our  party  consisted  of  Awack'and  Obblooria,  as  guides,  together 
with  Mr.  Blanky,  the. chief  mate,  and  mjIeK'  Our  own  bag^ge 
^as  lashed  on  two  sledges,  drawn  by  .dogs;  ,1^.  being  much,  heavier 
than  that  of  our  companions,  we  were  much  ti^ubled  to  keep  up 
with  them,  especially  as  they  occasionally  rode  in  their  sledges, 
while  we  irete  obliged  to  run  by  the  side  9f  ours,  and  very  often  to 
drag  them  through  the  deep  snow  drifts  which  were  perpetually  oc- 
curring.      . 

Our  direction  was  to  the  soutb-westv^ard,  and  close  along  the  shore, 
until  noon,  when  the  wind  increased  to  a  fresh  gale,  and  the  driving 
snow  became  so  thick,  that  Awack,  who  was  leading  the  party,  lost 
his  way,  and  getting  among  some  hummocky  ice,  had  his  sledge  bro- 
ken in  two  places.  This  accident  had  nearly  put  an  end  to  our  jour- 
ney before  it  was  well  commenced,  as  they  had  no  means  of  r6|lair-> 
ing  the  damage.  On  that  account,  and  because  of  the  gale,  wnich 
it  was  now  impossible  to  face  should  we  have  desired  to  return,  the 
guides  began  to  build  a  snow  hut;  a  project  which  we  did  not  ^t>ll 
approve  of,  could  any  means  of  proceeding  be  discovered.  '^'Mr. 
Blanky,  therefore,  suggested  the  possibility  of  mending  their  sledge 
by  mear^s  of  thdr  spearsj  but  as  I  knew  that  they  would  not  consent 
to  this  surrender  of  their  weapons,  I  broke  them  both,  without  ask- 
ing any  questions,  into  lengths  fit  for  the  purpose.  As  might  have 
been  expected,  this  was  followed  by  a  sudden  burst  of  united  surprise 
and  anger;  but  on  assuring  them  that  I  would  give  them  two  much 
better  spears  as  soon  as  we  should  return  to  the  ship,  they  became 
pacified,  and  set  about  the  work  with  the  utmost  good  nature. 


/ 


TO  THB  ARCTIC  HBGIOWS. 


161 


Hfor  our 
tfOiy  wrad: 
n^lch,  that 
btb§r  day. 
IS  anxious 
uch  desire 
t  Bi;c  in  the 

},  together 
a  bag^ge 
ch,  heavier 
o  keep  up 
ir  sledges, 
ry  often  to 
etiially  oc- 

;  the  shore, 
the  driving 
party,  lost 
sledge  bro- 

0  our  ioiir- 
of  repair- 
ale,  vrhich 
return,  the 

1  not  ft  all 
Bred.  'Mr. 
leir  sledge 
lot  consent 
ithout  ask- 
light-  have 
id  surprise 
tviro  much 
>y  became 
ture. 


Having  succeeded  in  this,  we  set  off  once  more,  m  spite  of  the 
snow  and  the  gale,  but  found  ourselves  even  more  hampered  than 
we  had  expected;  since,  in  addition  to  these  extreme  annoyance?,  we 
had  the  ill  fortune  to  fall  in  with  a  considerable  tract  of  rough  an^ 
hummocky  ice.  ThUoccupied  us  during  two  hours  of  severe  labour, 
when  we  once  more  contrived  to  reach  the  mamland.  The  guidM, 
however,  were  now  completely  at  fault,  as  they  could  not  see  twenty 
yards  before  them,  from  the  thick  drifting  of  the  snow  storm;  so  that 
we  were  obliged  to  give\ip  all  further  attempts  for  the  prgsent,  a^d 
to  consent  to  their  building  a  snow  hut. 

This  was  completed  in  half  an  hour;  and  certamly  never  did  we 
feel  better  pleased  with  this  kind  of  architecture,  which,  m  so  very 
short  a  time,  produced  for  us  a  dwelling,  affording  a  shelter  at  least, 
as  perfect  as  we  could  have  obtained  within  thp  best  house  of  stone. 
It  was,  indeed,  barely  large  enough  to  hold  our  party  of  four;  but  m 
thewretched  plight  that  we  now  were,  even  a  worse  accommoda- 
tion than  this  would  have  been  most  acceptable.    Our  clothoi  were 
so  penetrated  by  the  fine  snow  dust,  and  frozen  so  hard,  that  we 
could  not  take  them  off  for  a  lone4ime,  and  not  till  the  warmth  of 
our  bodies  had  begun  to  softpiHliem.    We  also  suffered  exceedmgly 
from  thirst;  so  that  whileihe  Esquimaux  were  busied  with  the  ar- 
rangements of  their  building,  we  were  employed  in  melting  snow  by 
the  aid  of  a  spirit  lamp.    The  quantity  which  ^e  thus  produced  in 
a  short  time,  was  sufficienttor  the  whole  party:  while  the  delight  of 
our  guides  was  only  equalled  by  their  surprise;  since,  with  them,  the 
same  operation  is  the  work  of  three  or  four  hours,  performed  as  it  is, 
in  stone  vessels,  over  their  open  oil  lamps.  v  a    *   «u 

There  was,  however,  an  attendant  evil,  owing  chiefly  to  the  ex^ 
ceeding  smallness  of  our  hut.  Its  walls  naturally  melted  also;  and 
go  fast,  that  our  dresses  became  soon  wetted  to  such  a  degree,  that 
we  were  compelled  to  take  them  off  and  get  into  the  fur  bags.^tlere 
at  length  we  could  keep  out  this  enemy,  and  in  those  we  slept 

I  have  already  said,  that  we  travelled  along  the  mainland  during 
thd  whole  of  thU  day;  but  as  the  density  of  the  snow  drift  prevented 
me  from  seeing  objects,  at  any  time,  more  than  a  quarter  of  a  mile 
off,  I  was  unable  to  form  even  a  tolerably  correct  idea  of  the  direc- 
tion in  which  we  had  travelled.  I  beKevc,  nevertheless,  that  the 
distance  did  not  exceed  twenty  miles.  This,  however,  had  Mcupied 
us  during  eight  or  nine  hours,  notwithstanding  the  rapidity  with 
which  we  had  performed  th^ftrst  part  of  the  journey;  and  so  many 
hours  of  exposure  to  labour  atSUold,  together  with  the  severe  exer- 
tions that  we  had  undergone  airihQg  the  rough  ice,  had  very  com- 
pletely )^ired  us  all.  .  X         ji 

6lh.  We  had,  in  return,  the  advantage  of  sleepmg  most  soundly; 
and  might  not  have  awoke  very  soon,  had  it  not  been  for  a  mutiny 
and  rebellion  which  broke  out  among  the  dogs.  They  had  nd  them- 
selves of  their  traces  and  got  loose?  while,  never  being  over  fed. 


I-' 


A 


'■■■?" 


^.. 


IM 


iraOOWD  VOTAOB  OF  DIflOOVERY 


and  at  that  time,  doabtless,  tolerably  hungry,  they  had  attadked 
the  Bledge  of  Awack,  for  the  pvrpose  of  devouring  the  frozen  fish 
of  which  it  vras  constructed,  unless,  indeed,  they  preferred  the  hides 
of  the  mysk  ox  by  which  thcs^  were  bound  together.  The  owner 
soon  ran  to  the  rescue;  and  as  the  damage  was  only  commenced,  the 
repairs  were  neither  velry  difficult  nor  tedious.  We  had,  indeed, 
but  too  much  time  ofiour  hands  for  Ibis  work;  as  the  inclemency  of 
fthe  weather  rendei^it  impooible  to  proceed. 

This  Teisure  enabled  us  to  have  a  good  deal  of  conversation  with 
our  new  friends  who  being  i\pvr  at  their  ease,  ,and  free  from  the 
apprehensi^  which  they  had  at  first  entertained,  began  to  im- 
prove  very  much  in  our  estimatioii:  displaying,  in  particular,  far 
more  acuteness  and  intelligence  than  we  could  have  expected  to  find 
under  countenances  so  heavy,  and  physiognomies  so  dull.  What 
was  of  most  importance,  however,  to  us,  was  the  information  which 
they  afforded  respecting  the' nature  of  the  coast,  and  the  ocean  to 
the  westward;  the  latter  of  which  they  represented  to  be  of  great 
extent. 

For  the  first  time,  alio,  they  now  spoke  of  an  island,  which  they 
called  Oo^eoo-lik  and  where,  ia  the  summer,  as  they  informed  us* 
we  should  see  great  numbers  of  Esquimaux;  naming  particularly, 
among  those,  a  man  who  'was^'described  as  lame,  and  a  woman 
called  Kablalla,  who  was  spdcen  of  as  a  personage  of  great  im- 
portance among  them,  and  giving  nie,  J[isr  liddition,  the  name  of  her 
husband  and  children,  together  with  those  of  many  more  of  her 
kindred.  " 

They  described  the  place  termed  Oo^eoo-Iik  as  very  distant; 
saying  also  that  it  required  many  days'  journey  across  the  salt 
water,  to  reach  it.  This  confirmed  thiSr  prevfous  account  of  the 
extent  of  the  sea  to  the  westward;  but  I  could  not  at  this  time  con- 
trive to  make  them  understand  my  wishes  to  go  there.}  1  was  there- 
fore obliged  to  content  myself  with  listeniAg  to  the  anecdotes  which 
they  related  aboatrtheir  people,  and  to  answer,  as  well  as  I  could, 
the  several  questions  whicl^they  asked  me  about  the  Esquimaux 
whom  I  had  seen  at  Igloolik^  whose  concerns  they  seemM  to  take 
,  a  very  lively  interest 

Their  principal  questions,  however,  related, to  the  manner  of 
hunting  among  those  people,  to  their  amusements,  and  to  their  sing- 
ing; and  they  were  ajso  curious  to  know  whether  I  had  seen  the 
«<ane:ekok8,"  and  witnessed  their  tricks.  With  all  this  I  had  for- 
inerTv  been  familiar;  having  been  on  many  excursions  with  those 
people,  after  the  seal  and  tm  walrus,  and  having  seen  also  enough  of 
the  operations  of  the  conjurors.  I  was  to  say  also  whether  ihad 
heard '*Tom-^h,'^  the  sjpurit,  and  to  refeat  what  he  had  said;  all  of 
^hich  questions  I  answered  as  wdl  as  I  could,  so  that  there  vras 
amusement  at  least,  if  not  empk>yn|ent,  for  this  daj'dTdetentkMD.  I 
was  abo  xAtHgtA  to  repeat  frequently  tiie  names  of  the^'ai^kdcs»" 


■1^.  ■ 


1  attacjked 
rozen  fish 
the  hides 
'he  owner 
enced, the 
d, indeed, 
emency  of 

fttion  with 
from  the 
in  to  im- 
icular,  far 
ited  to  find 
II.  What 
ion  which 
.  ocean  to 
i  of  great 

rhich  they 
formed  us, 
rticniariy, 
a  woman 
great  im- 
ne  of  her 
>re  of  her 

r 

c 

ry  distant; 
8  the  salt 
ant  of  the 
I  timei  con- 
was  there- 
Dtes  which 
s  I  could, 
^uimaux 
ed  to  take 

manner  of 
their  sing- 
I  seen  the 
[  had  for- 
ivith  those 
enouffh  of 
ther  ihad 
said:  all  of 
thei%  was 
tention.  I 
u^koks»" 


TO  TnC  AMonO  EBOIORSi 


l«t 


to 


.,i-^*- 


with  those  of  their  wives  and  children,  as  it  was  their  desire 
member  those;  for  which  they  laboured  by  frequent  repetition. 
They  seemed  greatly  amused  to  hear  that  so/toany  of  them  had 
two  wives;  adding,  also,  that  they  knew  a  inan  to  the  westward 
who  was  thus  doubly  provided,  having  brought  them  from  Repulse 
bay.  From  this  I  should  have  concluded  that  the  Wactice  of  biga- 
-rov  was  very  rare  nmone  the  present  tribe;  but  we  afterwards^ound 
abundant  reason  to  recall  this  conclusion.  - 

We  were  much  more  interested,  however,  m  hearing  them  relate 

the  circumstances  which  had  brought  them,  td  thU  part  of  tje  coast, 

and  to  our  immediate  neighbourhood.    Two  of  their  people  had  been 

fishing  to  the  northward,  at  aeplace  called  Ow-weet-tee-week,  and 

there  saw  the  ship  beset  by  th^  ice  and  carried  >ast  to  the  south- 

ward;  this  being,  us  well  id  I  could  conjfecture,  on  the  second  or 

third  of  September.    Being  much  alarmed  in  consequence,  ther 

immedTatelysetofftojoin  the  main  body  of  their  tribe  at  Nci-tyel. 

le,  where  they  remained  tilhthe  arrival  of  a  woman  called  Ka-ke- 

kas-iu.    This  person  liad  a  sister  who  was  one  among  the  party  that 

had  been  with  us  at  Winter  island,  in  the  forrter  voyage  to  this 

part  of  the  world;  and  from  her,  they  received,  so  enticuig  an 

account  of  the  reception  which  the  latter  had  met  with  from  us  on 

that  occasion,  that  they  Came  to  the  resolution  of  going  to  seek  us,  ^ 

wherever  th©  Victory  might  chance  to  have  been  brought  up. 

This  they  accordingly  did;  and  our  companuMis  now  described  to 

us  their  sen«tk)ns  at  the  first  sight  of  our  footmarks  in  the  snow.  _^,^^ 

their  ^tonishment  at  the  size  of  the  prints,  and  the  consultation 

which  was  held,  to  determine  whether  they  should  proceed  or  not 

Th6  ckquence  of  Ka-ke-kag-iU,  however,  overcame  all  their  fears; 

and  th^  now  repeated  to  us  the  delight  which  they  had  felt  when, 

aaer  drawing  up  in  a  Une  to  receive  us,  they  had  seen  ns  throw 

away  our  arms.  .  x.   •       *• 

During  all  this  time  their  oratory  did  not  interrupt  their  eating; 
for  this  U  an  occupation  never  neglected,  as  long  as  there  is  any 
thing  to  eat;  nor  could  all  our  experience^inong  this  gluttonous 
race  diminish  the  perpetually  recurring  surprise  that  we  feltjit  the 
persistence  of  their  appetites,  the  capacity  of  their  stomachs,  and 
the  energy  of  their  digestive  powerf.  To  say  that  they  ate  thus 
from  hunger,  or  even  from  appetite,  cannot  be  true:  no  human 
being,  governed  by  the  instinct  of  appetite  alone,  could  feel  such 

wante,  in  whatever  way  nature  contrives  to  dispoie  of  the  enormous 
supesAuity.  No  animal,  however  carnivorous  and  voracious,  acta 
thus:  the  very  glutton  itself,  in  spite  of  iU  reputation,  or  of  Jhe 
truth  of  its  name,  if  trutfr  it  be,  fills  itself  and  is  jatisfied.^  Man 
alone  eats  from  pure  wantoniness;  that  he  may  gratify  his  taste,  not 

satUfy  his  hunger;  %  indeed,  this  is  not  also  the  fr#quent^eflfect  of 
the  principle  of  avarice  or  appropriation.    This  it  is,  to  be  «  ra-  • 
tionalbdng;  but,  as  in  inany  other  casof^  and  worse  ones,  it  »  to 


^■A: 


\ 


I 


^■^"'rK 


-V 


.--•.•.■>->»«w«!.JtTO  ' 


S'-         ,™Ji»»l!i**«">«>- 


:.L 


Mi 


^  .^ 


H    « 


w 


A.^r*' 


i  K  :       '■■■'* . 


Yi 


i'k.!<^ 


;"i.  -71'  ■    i 


'      0 


<w^ 


'W^ 


nf 


■/'  .- 


» 

^ 


"X 


-r 


/■ 


./• 


/ 


~  -'<*^" 


a-' 

t. 


184 


SECOND  VOTAOB  OF  DISCQVERIT 


but  to  aid  them: 


use  that  reason,  not  to  control  the  evil  passions, 

make  man,  whenever  he  choc>8es  so  to  be,  the  most  evil*  animal  in 

creation.  ■*" 

The  provisions  in  question  were,  however,  consumed  sooner  than 
they  would  have  desired;  for  their  stock  was  small,  in  consequence 
of  the  division  which  .they  too  opade  of  them  among  their  frieifds, 
before  we  came  away  from  the  ship.    It  was  therefore  fortunate, 

'  yet  for  other  and  better  reasons,  that  the  weather  soon  ^  began  to 
clear,  and  thus  gave  our  guides  a  speedy  prospect  of  replacing  their 
larder.  -.In  consequence  of  this,  I  obtained  some  observations  for  de- 

:.,  termiriii%  our  position,  and  for^tbe  angles  required  for  my  intended 
survey. 

"  'The  latitude  of  our  present  position  was  69°  44'  2(y',  and  the  lon- 
gitude 0°  44'  6"  w^^of  the  ship.  The  hut  v^as  buiit  on  the  south 
shore  of  an  inlet  almit  three  miles  long,  lying  on  a  west-south-west 
line.  On  each  side,  the  land  presented  high  and  rugged  shores  of 
granite;  and  a  considerable  river  entered  on  that  w'hich.was  oppo- 
site to  us,  at'  about  the  distance  of.  half  a  mile.  .  The  name  which 
our  natives  gave  to  this,  wa|'3Vng-ma-look-took,-  and  they  described 

^it  as  abounding  in  fish,  in  tttsumtner  time.  The  name  of^tl^  inlet 
in  the  language  of  the  counl^,  is  Too-nood-lead,  and  it  is  tubs  dis- 
tingubhed  in  the  chart  which  I  drew  up^  •      ^ 

'  On  my  return  from  a  rising  ground  to  which  I  had  gone  for  the 
purpose  of  obtaining  better  ideas  of  our  situation  and  of  .the  coast 
in  general,  I  found  the  i:wa  guides  Aw^ck  and  Ooblooria  busily  em- 
ployed in  loading  their  sledge,  and  was  equally  surprised  and  dis- 
pleased to  find  that  they  were  preparing  to  return  to  the  place  that 

-we  had  left,  to  obtain  a  fresh  supply  of  every  thing,  and  especially 
of  provisions,  since  they  had  eaten  up  every  thing,  danraged  their 
sledge,  and  broken  their  spears'  for  the  purpose  of  repairing  it: 
while  without  these  latter,  they  had  no  means  of  procufing  pro- 
visions. 

There  was  nothing  left  for  me,  to  prevent  them  from  putting  this 
provoking  resolution  into  practice,  but  to  trick  them  into  abandon-  - 
ing  this  scheme;  since  it  is  not  very  easy  to  reason  with-  a  man's 
stomach;  above  all,  with  that  of  an  Esquimaux;  apid,  as  in  truth, 
it  was  not  very  easy  to  |>roduce  any  good  reasons  against  such  ar- 
guments as  these.  A  question  of  tfa^ir  own  geography  would  not 
have  weighed  with  them,  when  pufr  into  competition  with  a  dinner 
of  seal  and  a  drink  of  oil;  and  how  could  I  expect  that  our  pursuits 
of  this  kind,  which  must  really  have  seemed  abundantly  purpose- 
lees  to  them,  and  whichM>erbap8,  may  not  seem  of  any  vast  importance 
to  persons  of  very  difierent  information,  were  to  influence  them, 
when  put  into  the  balance  against  the'  lightest  wisbe»  or  caprices 
of  their  own?  ^  " 

^  To  carry  my  object,  I  therefore  engaged  them  apart  in  conversa- 
tioD,  while  Mr.  Uanky  selected  some  of  the  best  pieces  of  aeaVt^^y^ 


It 


TO  TBC  ARCTIC  REGI0R9. 


185 


I  them;  to    • 
animal  in 

oner  than 
nsequence 
ir  frieifda, 
fortunate, 
,  began  to 
cing  their 
ons  for  de< 
f  intended  * 

id  the  Ion- 
the  Eouth 
louth-west 
1  shores  of 
was  oppo- 
ime  which 
described 
f^tl^  inlet 
i  tlnis  dis- 

16  for  the 
.the  coast 
busily  em- 
id  and  dis-  ■ 
place  that 
especially 
iged  their 
pairing  it: 
Bring  pro- 

utting  this 
>  abandon- 
\i-  a  man's 
18  in  truth, 
t  such  ar- 
would  not 
h  a  dinner 
ir  pursuits 
ypurpose- 
mportance 
nee  them, 
r  caprices 

conversa- 
s  of  sears^^/ 


fliesh  in  our  possession,  part  of  a  considerablie  provinon  that  we  had 
made  for  the  dogs,  and' wrapped  them  up  in  a -piece  of  canvass.  1 
then  informed  them  that  I  should  proceed  to  Nei-|jrel-le  without 
them,  that  they  would  thus  lose  the  promised  reward,  and  that  I 
had  moreover  plenty  of  meat  in  my  possession,  as  they  could  now 
see.  Gn  this,  they  consented  to  go  on,  and  we  were  therefore  soon 
on  our  road  again  towards  our  original  destination. 

After  crossing  a  neck  of  land,  about  three  miles  broad,  and  occu- 
pied by  two  small  lakes,  which,  as  we  were  infdrmed,.were  well 
stocked  with  fish,  w6  again  descended  upon  the  salt  water  ice,  which 
the  guides  described  as  belonging  to  the  head  of  a  maritime  inlet  to 
which  they  gave  the  name  of  Tar-rio-nit-yoke.    The  meanine  of 
this  phrase,  however,' is,  '<not  salt  water:"  so  that  it  is  probably  a 
)i^into  which  thore  runs  a  river,  or  rivers,  so  considerable. as  to 
ustify  this  name.    Thus  it  is  that  its  exit,  or  inouth,  is  also  termed 
'  >y  them  Shag-a-voke,  whjch  means  "it  runs  fast;"  there  being  pro- 
>ably  some  great  accumulation  from  the  interior  fresh  waters  and 
snow  during  the  thaw;  so  as  to  cause  a  rush  through  a  nairtovr  open- 
ing, at  one  part  of  the  year,  sufficient  to  have  given  rise  to  this  de- 
scriptive appellation. 

'  We  halted  on  a  small  islet  in  the  nprth.west  corner  of  this  bay, 
where  we  found  Tul-lo-ack*s  c^noe  covered  with  stones,  having  been 
buried  in  this  manner  to  preserve  the  timbers  from  rotting;  while 
the  skin  covering  had  also  been  taken  off,  for  the  same  reason.  The 
wood  itself,  they  had  procured,  as  they  informed  us,  Very  far  to  th9 
westward,'Sn  the  neighbourhood  of  Oo-geoo-lik. 

From  this  place  we  now  continued  our  course  directly  intand; 
ascending  the  bed  of  a  river,  and  passing  several  narrow  lakes;  tte- 
veiling  Uirough  deep  snow  for  the  space  of  four  or  five  miles.  Our 
pn«ress  was  necessarily,  therefore,  very  slow,  until  we  reached  tbd 
banks  of  the  furthest  one,  to  which  they  gave  the  name  of  Ty-sha^- 
ge-wuck,  and  which  they  described  as  abounding  in  three  *^*-''-  -' 
trout.  I  here  shot  two  grouse  which  had  allowed  me  to  i 
them  sufficiently  near  to  render  my  aim  certain:  to  the  etjfluil  sur- 
prise and  delight  of  our  guides,  who  had  never  before  witoeswd  the 
effect  of  fire-arms. 

Ith.  The  wind  now  increased,  and  blew  over  the  snow  so  keel 
»rrying  with  it  a  perfect  torrent  of  drift  snow,  that  we  were 
pnger  able  tortace  it;«so  that  we  were  at  last,  at  seven  in  the  ev 
iBe,  obliged  to /betake  ourselves  to  the  shelter  of  a  spow  hut,  which 
guides  bu^t  at  the  west  end  of  the  lake  where  we  were  now 
ig^  in  o«r  cold  and  laborious  journey. 

iijrfrientii  had  noticed  and  recollected  the  inconvenience  that 
had  experienced  from  the  smallriess  of  the  hut  which  they  had 
trulfiled  on  the  preceding  occasion,  and  the  present  one  was 
futoreii^de  considerably  iareer.  The  Esquimaux,  as  everr  one 
il|  li^ipe  very  diort,  though  thickly  made;  and  thence,  cakoiating 
fcenaetvei,  aad  fwytting^ifr wwfrfreatef <tatara  and  teq^er 


that  which  they  had  made  before  was  so  cooQned,  that  we 
not  itre^  ounehres  out,  without  opei^  the  doorway  and 


'^ 


"] 


^Iw 


186 


SECOND  VOYAGE  OF  DISOOVKRT. 


putting  our  feet  and  legs  beyond  it;  which,  in  such  a  temperature 
as  that  of  this  country,  was  by  no  means  agree^le.  We  were  now 
very  thankiful,  even  for  the  small  portion  of  obsiwrvation  which  had 
discovered  this  fact,  and  for  the  goodnature,  and  politeness, which  had 
laboured  to  find  the  remedy.  ^ 

8th.  In  the  morning  it  was  foggy,  with  much  sno^jr.  Our  guides 
therefore  proposed  to  leave  the  ba^age  behind,  that  we  might 
travel  the  more  quickly,  and  thus  be  enabled  to  reach  Nei-tyel-le, 
and  afterwards  return  to  sleep  at  the  hut  I  could  not  have  select- 
ed a  more  unfavourable  day  for  a  visit  to  a  place  of  so  much  inte- 

h  irest;  but  as  I  well  knew  the  capricious  and  changeable  charactiers 

—c^  Uiese  people,  I  was  unwilling  to  i^ke  any  objections..  In  any 
event,  I  should  thus  have  seen  the  place  and  ascertained  the  Way  tO'' 
it;  80  as  to  enable  me  to  reach  and  examine  it  at  some  future  day, 
under  more  favourablexircumstances. 

We  accordingly  set  off  at  nine  in  the  morning;  and  after  passing 
two  small  narrow  lakes,  called  Kung-uck  from  the  hilly  country  by 
which  they  were  bounded,  we  arrived  by  a  short  and  stee^  descent 
at  the  place  named  Pad-le-ak;  a  ivjird  which  means  "journey's      ; 
end."    The  total  absence  of  any  tid^mark  made  me,  at  first,  doubt 
whether  we  had  really  reached  the  sea;  but  the  man  Awack  hav- 
ing cast  off  his  d<^s,  one  of  £hem  soon  found  a  seal-hole,  and  thus^ 
a&wed  me  to  taste  the  salt  water.    The  occurrence  of  some  hum- 
mucky  sea  ice,  shortly  after,  would  alone  have  set  thb  question  at 
rest;  as  it  completed  my  satisfaction  by  ensuring  this  essential  fact  ^'^ 
respecting  our  geography  and  the  journey  which  we  had  thus  made.  '"' 

Keeping  on  our  course  to  the  south-west  until  eleven  o'clock,  we 
passed  an  island  which  the  guides  called  0-wuk-she-o-wik  because 
the  particular  cod,  termed  by  them  0-wuk,  is  caught  near  this  , 
place  during  the  summer  and  the  autumm  freauenting  its  shores,  as 
they  informed  us,  in  great  abundance.  From  this  we  turned  toward 
the  south,  and,  after  that,  to  the  south-east;  when,  passing  first  a 
.^unall  lake  where  I  procured  a  meridian  altitude  of  the  sun,  and  tra- 

.    versing  a  low  shore  of  limestone,  we  arrived  at  the  great  lake  of 
Nei-tyel-Ie  at  one  o'clock. 

The  east  shore  of  this  pietfe  of  water  presented  a  ridge  of  granite 
hills,  and  the  guides  pointed  out  on  the  laces  of  these  several  winter 
huts  which  they  called  0-ka-u-eet.  The  luide  Awack  had  left  his 
canoe  here;  and  he  therefore  separated  from  us  to  go  in  search  bf 
it,  whil^  we  pursued  our  course  to  the  southward,  soon  reaching  the 
banks  of  a  river.  I  attempted  in  vain,  at.  this  time,  to  form  some 
estima^  of  the  size  of  this  i&ke;  for  the  snow  drift  was  so  heavy  ak 

'  entirely  to  prevent  this,  since  I  could  never  see  more  than  a  mile  in 
any  direction,  during  the  time  that  we  Were  near  it. 

W^  found  the  canoe  belonging  to  the  other  guide,  on  a  «mall  islet- 
in  the  river;  and,  at  this  point  we  estimated  the  stream  to  be  half  ^ 
mile  in  bVcAdth;  while,  as  the  ice  on  it  was  of  very  considerable 


the  informatioD  of  the  guide  OeUltorh  it  runs  into  the  sea  in  a  di- 
rectioii  to  the  south-wMt  oi  this  iple^  flewing  out  of  the  ■outh-eaitem 


■•♦if. 


^ 


TO  THE  ARCTIC  REGIOITS. 


187 


end  of  the  lake  which  we  had  passed.  The  hanks  were  of  limestone; 
and,  from  some  fragments  of  this  rock,  with  the  assistance  of  Mr. 
Blankey,  I  erected  a  eairn^  and  we  went  through  the  usnal  cere- 
mony of  taking  possession.  At  three  o'clock  we  had  finished  all 
that  we  could  now  do  in  this  quarter,  and  prepared  for  our  return. 

In  no  long  time  we  found  the  canoe,  which  Awack  had  left  for 
us  to  pick  up,  while  be  went  forward  to  melt  some  snow  to  he  ready 
,on  our  arrival  at  the  hut.  At  six  we  reached  the  sea  once  more.and 
the  river  of  Pad-le-ak  at  seven;  at  which  time  the  weather  had  become  ' 
settled  and  clear.  I  therefore  ascended  an  elevated  ground,  with 
Ooblooria,and  this  obtained  a  very  perfect  view  of  this  extensive  inlet, 
'  He  herelnformed  me,  that  to  the  quarter  he  pointed,  extending 
from  north-west  to  south-west,  there  was  a  contiguous  open  sea,  or 
a  sea  free  of  all  ice,  during  the  summer,  and  that  at  a  short  dutance 
beyond  a  high  and  bold  cape,  which  terminated  the  north-east  shore 
of  the  inlet,  no  land  could  be  seen  to  the  westward.  But,  from  the* 
south-west  to  the^outh-east,  there  was  a  tract  of  land  connecting 
ihe  ground  on  which  we  stood  with  Ac-cool-le  and  the  shores  of  Re- 
pulse bay,  while  there  was  no  way  into  this  sea  from  the  south;  j^ 
that  if  our  ship  desired  to  reach  Nei-tyel-le  from  her  present  §0n 
sition,  she  must  go  round  a  long  way  to  the  northward. 

From  this  evidence  which  appeared  to  be  as  accurate  as  he  was 
clear  and  consistent  in  giving  it,  T  concluded  that  we  were  now. 
looking  on  the  great  western  ocean,  of  which  these  people  had  so 
frequently  spoken  to  us,  that'^he  land  on  which  we  stood  was  part 
of  the  great  continent  of  America,  and  that  if  there  was  any  passage 
to  the  westward  in  this  cmarter,  it  must  be  sought  to  the  northward 
of  our  present  position.  To  the  cape  in  question  I  gave  the  name  of 
Isabella,  being  that  of  my  sister,  on  whose  birthday  it  was  discovered. 

The  guide  Ooblooria  now  pointing  to  the  south-west,  said  that  (he 
way  to  Oo-geoo-lj^  lay  in  this  direction;  on  which  I  endeavoured  to 

Eersuade  him  to  accompany  me  there  in  the  coming  spring.  In  this, 
owever,  I  could  not  succeed  by  any  offers  or  promises  that  I  could 
make;  his  objections  seeming  to  arise  from  the  great  distance,  and 
from  the  difficulty  of  procuring  food;  the  last  being  a  reason  far  top 
solid  to  be  removed  by  aught  but  the  complete  demonstration  of  a 
sufficient  and  well-secured  supply.  In  the  course  of  this  discussion, 
he  informed  me  that  some  of  the  tribe  which  inhabits  that  place 
had  brought  their  people  drift  wood  from  it,  but  that  none  of  them 
had  ever  been  there;  so  that  their  communication  was  very  limited, 
and  their  knowledge,  of  course,  but  imperfect. 

We  reached  our  hut  at  nine  in  the  evening,  and  found  that  Awack 
had,  as  we  had  expected,  arrived  before  us.  He  had  displayed  his 
newly  acquired  learning,  or  his  ingenuity,  in  a  rather  unexpected 
manner;  having  succeeded  in  procunng  a  light  by  means  of  the  oxv- 
muriatic  matches  which  He  had  seen  us  use  for  that  purpose;  and  he 
had  thus  provided  us  with  an  ample  supply  of  water;  a  refreshment 
of  which  we  were  much  in  need,  and  the  want  or  scajgUyijQLghfeh:: 


•I 


is  always  exceedingly  tantalizing  in  a  country  of  snow  and  ice;tSee- 
ing  that  we  arc  living  among  water,  walking  on  water,  and  eternal^ 


.  4 


188 


SECOND  VOYAGE  OP  DISCOVERY 


H 


ly  annoyed  by  water,  in  one  at  least  of  its  forms,  and  always  foreet-,, 
ting  that  the  snow  and  ice  of  this  frozen  land  is  a  far  other  thin|  th^j 
that  6f  our  own  winters,  and  not  to  he  converted  into  donk  without 
great  labour  and  expense  of  heat.   .  .,  ^         «.  j  j 

'  Being  now  on  our  way  home,  we  for  the  firit  time  afforded  our- 
selves a  w^rm  mess  of  grouse  soup,  while  we  also  boiled  some  seal  s 
flesh  for  our  conjpanions.  Ooblooria  was  completely  tired,  from 
his  great  exertions  during  the  day.  His  partner  was  suflenng  from 
snow  blindness;  find  thus  it  fell  on  him  to  lead  the  way,  as  it  wasun- 
known  to  ourselves.  Thus  labouring  through  snow  which  was  (rflen 
verv  deep,  with  the  drift  in  his  face,  and  at  a  very  quick  rate,_at  the 
head  of  the  sledge,  he  hdd  gone  at  least  forty  miles,  so  that  his  fatigue 
was  no  cause  of  surprise.  All  slept  soundly,  and  by  ten  o'clock  the 
following  morning,  we're?umed  our  joiirney  homestjard.  • 

At  noon  I  observed  for  the  latitude,  near  the  east  end  of  the  great 
lake  of  Ty-shug-ge-wuck  and  found  it  to  he  69°  38'  53".  Here  Awack 
left  IIS,  bat  rejoined  us  again,  within  four  hours,  at  Tar-rio-nit-yoke; 
bringing  with  him  the  paunch  bf  a  deer,  which  they  esteem  a  great 
delicacy,  together  with  some  fish  that  he  had  concealed  m  the  sum- 
mer. We  arrived  at  our  hut  on  the  inlet  of  Too-nood-lead  at  four 
in  the  afternoon,  and  just  in  time  to  escape  a  most  violent  gale  of 
\wnd  from  the  northward,  accompanied  by  a  very  heavy  drift,  which 
-continued  without  intermission  during  the  whole  night,  and  made  us 
doubly  thankful  for  the  shelter  which  our  little  nest  ^flforded  us.  It 
was  sufficiently  cold  too;  for  the  thermometer  fell  to  minus  \^. 

To\frardfr  nine  on  the  following  morning  the  gale  began  to  aMi^; 
and  as  we  were  anxious  io  reach  the  ship,  we  set  out  at  noon,  when 
the  wind  gradually  subsided,  and  the  remainder  of  the  journey  prov- 
ed very  agreeable,  aslhe  weather  at  length  became  as  fine  as  dm- 
.  nble.  The  guide  Ooblooria  was,  however,  in  a  very  lamentable 
condition;  suffering  from  snow  blindness,  and  his  knees  being  ulcerat- 
ed from  the  frictidn  of  his  frozen  trousers. 

TTie  Esquimaux  sledge  was  bccupied  by  the  three  canoes  which 
Ibrmed  the  principal  object  of  their  journey,  so  that  there  was  no 
room  in  it  for  thi»  unlucky  man,  who  could  scarcely  see  his  wi^,  m 
7  consequence  of  tibife  streamingof  tears  from  his  inflamed  eyes.    I  there- 
fore desired  \am\  seat  Limself  in  ours:  and  was  much  pleased  at 
the  difficulty  which  I  had  in  prevailing  on  him;  as  his  polited^qr 
;    goodnature  did  not  choose  that  we  should  walk  for  his  accommoda- 
fion.    This,  however,  proved  of  no  inconvenience,  dtber  to  Mr. 
Blahky  or  myself,  lyho  were  fresh,  and  had  not  laboured  more  than 
was  necesB»ry  to  keep  us  warm.    Knowing  Ww  also  the  ground,  we 
.     took  on  ourselves  the  office  of  guides,  walking  at  the  head  of  the 
^  sledges  alternately,  to  point  out  the  best  way  through  the  rough  ice 
and  hummocks.    It  was,  finally,  the  onl;r  gpod  day  and  the  only 
aereeabtle  journey  which  we  h^d  experienced  since  quitting  the 
Bhip;  while  it  also  permitted  me  to  make  all  the  observations  ncces- 
■aiy  for  thfl  future  survey  of  (hii  line  of  r<w«rt;  and  thmwe  at  length 


reached  the  Victory  at  six  in  the  eveiting* 


2" 


■M-  .- 


TO  THE  ARCTIC  REGIONS. 


CHAPTER  XXn. 


189 


■>- 


il 


Proce^&igs  in  the  skip,  and  vdth  the  natives.  , 

April  llih.  The  wind  became  settled,  and  the  sky  serene,  though 
there  ^as  still  a  little  snow.  The  travellers  were  recover^;  and  the 
euides  having  received  the  promised  files,  departed  very  happy;  be- 
wg,  however,  td  return  the  next  day  Tor  a  new  speair  each,  in  place 
of  those  that  were  broken,  with  wood  to  repair  one  of  the  canoe^ 
which  was  much  damaged.  The  average  dimensions  of  the8e_wa« 
about  twenty  feet  in  length,  by  a  foo^and  half  irf  breadth.  Home 
specimens  of  the  salmon  and  lake  trout  were  procured;  but  we  atler- 
wrds  got  much  better  ones  from  the  sides  of  the  sledges  that  we 
had  purchased  from  them,  which  were  formed  of  these  fishes,  frozen 
together  into  a  mass,    '^he  service  of  the  day,  Sunday,  was  not   • 

12(A:  There  was  a  fresh  breeze  firom  the  north-eastward,  but  it 
was  not  cokL  Jt  was  necessary  to  build  a  new  place  for  the  ther- 
mometer, the  other  being  inundated  with  water.  A  party  came 
from  the  huts  to  thank  us,  bringing  a  valuable  seal-skin  as  a  present, 
with  another  of  a  pair  of  gloves  for  the  mate,  in  lieu  of  a  borrowed 
pair  which  the  dogs  had  eaten.  They  received  their  wood  of  course, 
^  and  Rave  us  thtf  native  names  of  the  fish  used  in  constructing  their 
sledsos,  which  we  had  bought,  informing  us  that  they  v»ere  caught 
in  iSe  lake  of  Neitchillee.  The  descriptions  of  these,  amounting  <» 
four,  must  be  sought  in  the  report  on  the  Natural  History  of  thig 

•  wS?  The  temperature  rose  so  much,  as  nearly  to  readi  ^ 
freeainx  point,  and  the  sky  was  overcast  It  was  stoll  repiarkabte. 
SdS£g  the  changes  of  the  wind  on  this  day,  the  h«»»««t  dwr^ 
of  the  thertaometer  was  when  it  blew  from  the  norths  and  that  it 
sank  very  quickly  when  the  wind  changed  to  the  south.  We  were 
not  yet  prepared  with  a  solution  for  this  fact  It  is  more  easy  to 
say  than  to  prove,  that  there  ^as  open  sea  to  the  north,  and  that 
tlie  south  wind  blew  over  a  great  extent  of  frozen  land.  There  was 
k(^  enough,  and  land  enough  also,  in  the  former  direction,  to  render 
this  expbmatkm  more  acceptable  in  the  clo8et,to those  whom  words 
wiU  satisfy,  than  to  us  who  knew  the  country.  It  wa»  our  bwuM« 
at  least  to  wait  for  a  better,  whether  that  shouM  arnve  or  not  A 
native  came  to  beg  a  new  stick  for  his  spear,  in  lieu  of  his  own,  which 
was  broken:  but  we  thought  it  expedient  to  refuse  him.  To  mve 
Ughtiy,  was  to  deprive  ourselves  of  the  power  of  rewarding;  even  M 
it  not  been  absolutely  necessary  to-keep  up  the  priceof  our  coiwaodl- 
ties,  lest  tiiey  should  faU  to  no  value,  and  depnve  os  of  the  fiilure 
ineBnf<rf'purcha«pg  what  was  indispensable. 


J.' 


»  \ 


Hi  \ 


v:^% 


_L.4_ 


( 


190 


SEOOITD  VOYAGB  Or  DUOOVERT 


i-r 


14th.  A  visit  from  our  friends  to-dajvraa  satisractory,  inasnuich  as 
we  found^  that  they  hadall  recomtnepced  taking  seals.  The  weather, 
both  on  this  and  the  following  dajf  was  mild  and  tranquil:  and  we  re-  , 
ceived  visits  from  both  settlements,  vrhich  were  now  united  iritoone>  so 
as  to  comprisei  nine  faiQilies  in  eight  but^  The  vessel  had  heeled  so  . 
much,  from  the  failure  of  the  ice  on  one  side,  that  it  was  necessary  lo 
remove  the  weight  of  snow  from  that  part  of  the  deck.  It-  was  now  ajso 
time  to  clear  away  the  snow-bank  round  the  ship,  being  noloftger 
wanted.  This  found  us  work  for  the  following  day  also.  The  tempera- 
ture'during^bese  three  days  vacillated  okeach  side  of  zero;  the  great; 
est  rise  being  plus  2°.  On  the  last,  another  visit  informed  us  that  some 
of  the  party  had  removed. to  an  inlet  northward  of  their  first  positiont 

nth*'  Commander  Ross  and  the  mate  j^^arted  on  the.'  sledge. 
The  natives  brought  us  a  skin  and  a  seal,  ano^  wad  again  teased  by 
one/  While  making  observations,  to  show  him  where  the  seals  might    . 
be  foundv    To  get  rid  of  him,  I  pointed  to  a  place,  at  hazard;  and,  ' 
in  the  event,  acquired  the  reputation  of 'a  conjuror,  inasmu^  iis 
they  afterwards'  caught  threcf.    Prognostication  was,  howeVer,  a 
trade  far  too  dangerouf  to  our  repi^tation,  to  be  indulged  in;  and  J 
hoped  that  the  opportunities  would  not  often  be  forced  onus  in  this 
manner.    One  of  the  seals  was  very  gratefully  brought  to  me,  as  an 
acknowledgment;  b^t  the  bearer  was  nevertheless  rewarded  with  a  ' 
file.    The  first  snow  buntings  of  the  season  were  seen  this  day. 
■Commander  Ross  retui;ped  in  the  evening  fron;^  the  newly  erected  - 
northern  huts,  about  six  miles  offi  and  having  explored  therbmrted  in- 
let, determined  that  there  was  no  passage  in  that  dii'ection.  Thus  was 
one  of  our  projects  exterminated;  but  there  we're  two  still  rismaining. . 

16th.  This  Sunday  was  a  calni  one;  but  tfie  temperature  did  not 
rise  beyond  11°  plus.  After  church,  one  tof  the  men  brought  back 
the  iron  door  of  the  fox-trap  which  iiis  brother  had  stolen  %fter  he 
had  built  it.  There  seemed  mbre  temptation  to  steal,  than  desire  to 
retain;  for  they  never  had  any  reluctance  in  returning  what  bad 
been  stolen.  Their  6pinion  seemed  to  be,  that  although  it  was  wrong 
to  steal,  no  hacm  was  done  if  the  owner  did  not  miss  the  property: 
an  argument  jiot  uncommon,  I  am  sorry  to  say,  among  their  betters 
in  our  pwgr  country,  but  not  t1:i&<,more  defensible  because  it  oas  an 
apologist  in  Shakspeare.  Making  no  coi)pealment  from  their  friends, 
.  these  did  not  fail  to  inform:  while,  not  denying  when  accused,  they 
^eeemed.to.c/M^er  the  whole  matter,  the  reproach  of  thief,  a^d  all 
else,  as  a  ^good  joke."  Y6t  they  sometimes  brought  peace  offerings; 
ah  they  did  on  this  day,  in  a  small  seal,  I  also  recovered  the  trough 
of  the  artificial  horizon,  which  had  been  missed  for  tVvo  days,  to-, 
gether  trith  a  dbg  which  had  been  detained:  the  culprit,  who  was  \ 
going  to  Neitchillee,  being  apparently  very  penitent,  and  desirous  of 
making  friends  With  us  before  his  departure.  AU  of  them  Were  about 
to  remove;  and  it  is  probable  that  we  Were  mste  sorry  than  they,  at 
a  parUng,  after  which,  as  we  then  thought>  we  were' not  likely  to 
meetagain^        '  "''''' 


»    • 


•  ■vm*'  w.*-^«M  *■ 


*' 

4 

'.   «■ 

TO  THB  ARCTIC  RBOroiTS. 


191 


\ 


19th.  It  blew  fresh,  with  thick  drift  sqow,  but  it  did  not  prevent 
many  ,of  the  natives  from  coming  to  us,  to  take  a  second  farewell. 
Each  received  some  present;  and  at  ten,  they  drove  off  t6  the  south- 
ward, leaving  their  former  habitations  empty.  TJhey  were,  evidently 
sorry  at  parting,  though  expecting  to  see  us  at  Neitchillee;  and  their 
final  adieu  was  a  universaUhout  of  thanks,  and  goodluck,  in  their 
own,  now  tolerably  intelligible,  tongue.  ...  i 

20/A.  There  was  a  cold  breeiee  till  evening,  when  it  became  calm. 
A  seal  was  brought  to  ua  from  the  northern  village;  and  Ikinallik  8 
son  propwed  to  be  a  guide  to  Shag-a-voke,  the  station  near  Neitchillee,^ 
where  we  were  desirous  of  examining  a  strong  current  of  the  tide. 
He  was  accordingly  kept  on.  board  till  the  morning,  when  the 
expedition  was  to  take  place:  the  promised  reward  being  a  file. 
They  told  us  that  they  had  seen  th4  first  gull  of  the  season,  on  the 
-  day  before,  which  was  good  new^  >ut  We  could  not  persuade  them  ' 
to  remain  all  night,  because  they  had  promised  to  return.  The  en- 
gineers were  employed  in  cutting  up- the  boilers,  to  obtain  a  new 
sheathing  for  the  outside,  where  /the  iron  had  been  originally  bad, 
and  whence  arose  tome  of  our  le^kineSs.    The  thermometer  did  not 

rise  beyond  zefro.  /  xj    -xuiu-   !? 

-  -  "  ''  '  'Manky  the  mate,  departed  with  their  * 

.;  the  weather  cold,  but  clear^^nd 
iie  former  delinquents  brought  JEt  seal- 

oMu  au»  ..«.  •'. .  Jwit  they"  were  bought,  not  accepted.' 

Sa'thel^  complaining  that  they  had  taken  no  seals,  they  were  m- 
formed  that  it  was  on  account  of  the  iron  which  they  had  stolen;  an 
accusation  which  induced  the  former  to  confess  respecting  some,  of 
which'we  did  not  know.      /  ,     "  .      .  .    ,  v«      /• 

22ndL  On  the  twenty-secdnd,  it  was  colder  than  it  had  been  fox  a 
month;  the  thermometer  frilling  to  minns  9°.  The  natives  brought 
a  large  seal  and  four  skinsj  which  were  bought;  while  they  informed 
us,  at  the  same  time,  thalt  they  were  soon  to  leave  their  present 
station  for  a  more  southehi  one.  At  eight,  our  own  offipers  return^ 
irom  their  journey,  leaving  the  guide,  who  was  quite  exhausted, 
with  his  friends,  who  hald  encamped  six  qailes  further,  to  the  south 

of  our  station.  /  .       ,    ,  ,  ,  -  *  •  • 

In  spite  of  the  cold  and  drift,  they  had  succeeded  in  ascertaining 
that  therefwas  a  crooked  channel,  not  more  than  two  hundred  feyt 
wide,  at  the  new  settlement  of  Shag-a-voke;  that  it  was  a  mile  in 
length,  and  lay  at  the' bottom  of  an  inlet,  while  also  leading  inland, 
to  the  westward,  intoa  spacious  basin,  five  Jhiiles  i|^  diameter.  It 
was  thtf  jnme  which  they  hadcrossed  in  their  former  journey,  before 
they  caAk  to  the  reported  inlet  into  the  western  sea,  where  they  had 
ascertainedXthe  exisitnce  of  a,  narrow  isthmus.  The  capes  which 
bound  the  entrance  of  (his  inlet  were  visible  from  the  ship,  as  vras 
the  continent\o  the  south-east,  which  seemed  to  trend  towardi 
Akullee  in  Repulse  bay.'  But  I  must  give  the  narrative  of  Cona^ 
mader  Ro«  ih  his  own  words.  '     < 


21st.  Comihander  Ross,  and 
guide,  an^  seve6  days'  provisior 
the  wind  favourable.    One  of  ^' 
skin,  and  his  brother  a  spear; 


T" 


^ 

I 

r 

t 

•\- 

V  *■■- 

1 

« 

.tp..- 

u.-  ■' 

,'"  ^f^—. 

> 

a 

* 

4 

'  ..,..<^ 

L 

'1---^ 

m 

m^ 

tms-:^'::::: 

*i^M» 

L 


Wf^ 


/ 


Ids 


SBOOITD  VOTAGB  Or  DiSOOVEHT 


CHAPTER  XXin. 


ComnumdarRoss^s  second  journey  and  narrative. 

1880.  Wc  had  alrea^  ascertained  that  it  was  the  western  ocean 
which  we  had  formerly  seen  across  the  narrow  bthmns  of  that  tract 
of  land  which  we  afterwards  nanwid  Boothia;  and  coupling  this 
knowledge  with  the  account  which  the  Esquimaux  had  given  us  <tf 
the  place  which  they  called  Shag-a-voke,  and  where  they  described 
a  strong  current  running  from  the  westward,  through  a  narrow 
strait,  we  conceived  the  not  unnatural  hope,  that  we  might  there 
find  some  passage  into  the  western  sea.  The  natives,  indeed,  gave 
us  no  encouiBgement;  assuring  us  that  the  land  was  here  contmuotis 
from  Boijfli  to  south  within  the  whole  range  of  their  knowledge,  and 
affimunr  positively  that  there  w^s  no  psssage  where  we  fancied 
thatdne  might  possibly  exist  But  we  did  not  think  ourselves  at  all 
justified  in  taking  this  on  their  showing:  they  might  not  be  correct; 
and,  at  any  rate,  we  were  sure  that  we  should  leave  a  source  of  re- 
pentance for  ourselves,  and  probably  a  ground  for  reproach  from  our 
oountiyme^,  should  we  be  satisfied  with  any  thing  short  of  occular 
<lenoAstration;  above  all,  when  we  had  come  90  far  for  such  an  Ob- 
ject, and  had  the  means  of  absolutely  satisfying  ourselves,  Jn  our 

But  as  Awack  and  Ooblooria  continued  to  spffer  from  their  ex- 
ertions during  the  last  journey,  and  were  unable'to  accompany  ut, 
Noak-wush^yuk,  a  k|d  of  sixteen  or  seventeen,  offered  to  act  as  my 

Ssdde,  and  we  accordingly  began  our  journeymen  the  twen^rfirst  of 
pifl,  at  an  early  hour  in  the  morning.  li-k^ 

The  day  commenced  unluckily,  with  ha«e  and  snow;  AM  fMie 
was  too  much  wind  to  allow  us  to  travel  with  comfort  or  expedition; 
especially  as  that  brought  with  it  the  usual  snow  drift,  which  m  the 
almost  invariable  attendant  of  a  winter  gale  in  these  regions.  We 
nevertheless  held  on  toward  the  south-west,  along  the  .land,  until  w^ 
reached  the  inlet  leading  to  Shag-a-voke:  getting  sight  of  its  en- 
trance, and  landing  on  one  of  the  three  isle^  which  lie  «» *p«  c»P^ 
h  they  term  Ac-cood-le-ruk- 
rftegttidp  ehdeavoured  i 


era  ocean 
that  tract 
pKng  this 
[yen  moi 
described 
a  narrow 
ght  there 
leed,  gave 
:ontinaons 
ledge,  and 
re  fancied 
tlves  at  all 
>e  correct; 
irceof  re- 
li  from  our 
of  occnlar 
Eieh  an  ob- 
rea,ixk  oar 

I  their  ex- 
impany  us, 
act  as  my 
ntyrfirst  of 

■      ^     It. 

ttiid-'dieini 
expedition; 
hich  is  the 
(ions.  We 
td,  nnitil  we 
:  of  its  eo- 
ff  the  cape, 
afternoon. 


TO  THE 


JMmjljff 


lEaioirs. 


103 


called  ihag-a-v6ke;  but  itdifffered  so  much  from  the  description 
which  Ph^d  deceived  firora  Ooblooria  that,  on  my  pointing  up  the 
inlet,  he;  immediately  said  Shug-looooanga,  "I  have  told  a  story, 
andJ)egged  to  be  allowed  to  build  a  hut:  saying  that  he  was  so  much 
fatted  that  he  could  go  no  further.  '  *       . .  ,  .    , 

%  this  'time  the  wind  had  subsided,  and  the  weather,  whiqh  had 
*before-|^n  so  disagreeable,  was  succeeded  by  a  beautiful  evening. 
JJo>iiltfnc,  therefore,  to  lose  the  advabfage  afforded  by  weather  as 
rare  as  it  was  fine,  the  boy  was  put  on  tl^fe  sledge,  and  we  proceeded 
alofig  the  north-west  shore  of  Accood-lcruk-tuk,  m  a  west-south- 
westerly direction:  during  which  little  journey  I  had  an  opportumty 
of  ascertaining  its  general  appearance,    -y-      „  ,.  ,    .  ^v 

The  entrance  of  this  inlet  i<^  formed  by  Cape  Tad-le-^chua  on  the 
south-east,  and  the  low  point  of  Ac-cood-le-riik.tuH,  on  the  north- 
west; these  two  points  being  about  five  miles  astjnder.    Bdth  the 
shores  are  composed  of  red  granite;  and  there  are  some  islets  lymg 
off  each  of  these  point8,4n  such'  a  manner  as  to  Occupy  a  large  por- 
tion of  the  entrance.    In  proceeding  upwards  into^,  the  shores  era- 
dually  approximate;  and,  at  the  distance  of  ahout\f(>ttr  niiles  from 
the  entrance,  where  they  take  a  remarkably  tortuoiMJ  course,  the 
breadth  of  the  inlet  was  only  a  hundred  and  twenty  feet;  that  place 
fdrmine  its  narrowest  portion.    Narrow  too  as  this  channel  is,  it  is 
still  further  contracted  by  some  rocks  within  it,  which  rise  aWe 
the  water,  on  which,  at  this  tinie,  much  he%vy  ice  was  grounded. 
From  all  these  particulars,  I  doubted  whether  even  a  boat  could  be 
lurried  into  the  upper  part  of  this  arm  of  the  sea;  as  it  certamly 
wouM  not  a£brd  a  passage  to  any  ship.  ,      f 

But  being  now  desirous  to  make  a  more  accurate  examination 
than  I  could  do  while  we  were  in  motion,!  selected  a*pot  for  a  hut; 
and  dechiring  my  intention  to  halt,  set  Noak-wush-yuk  to  work  to 
build  us  the  usual  snow  hduse:  departing  alone  on  thw  pursuit 
That  I  might  proceed  the  more  lightly,  Weft  my  gun  behind,  which 
I  had  soon  occasion  to  regret;  as,  within  an  hour's  time,  I  perceived 
two  animals  trotting  behind  me.  It  being  dusk,  I  mistook  them  for 
wolves,  and  though  these  were  npt  the  most  agreeable  compan- 
ions for  an  unarmed  man,  1  was  infinitely  more  mortified  at  the 
want  of  my  gun  on  finding  them  to  be  two  fine  deer,  which  passed 
within  ten  yards  of  me.    They  were  the  first  which  had  been  seen 

this  season.  "  .   .  ..t     ■,  al    •  i  * 

I  here  saw,  that  above  the  narrow  strait  just  menlibned,  the  inlet 
expanded  again  to  a  breadth  varying  from  one  quarter  to  three 
quarters  of  a  mile;  and  after  about  three  hours'  of  quick  walking,  ^ 
arrived  ut  its  further  extremity,  and  landed  on  a  small  islet  where  we 
had  found  Tulloack's  canoe  buried.  I  had  thus  completed  the  ex- 
amination  of  the  only  inlet  to  the  south  through  which  we  could 
have  hoped  to  find  a  passage  to  the  western  sea. 
This  inlet,  Shag-a-voke,  derives  its  name  from  the  rapidity  with 


.2&: 


I 


TM 


/ 


"^•■^.;"' 


.X 


104 


HBOORD  yOYAOB  OF  DISOOVERY 


4 


lyhich,  mthc  siunmer  time,  the  stream  rushes  out  through  the  con- 
tracted and  narrow  channel  which  it  must  pass  m  its  way  to  the  sea; 
and  I  formerly  remarked,  that  the  name  is  expressive  of  this  fact: 
sinc^  the  literal  interprfetation  of  that  i8-"it  ruM  fast.  Respect- 
ine  the  cause  of  thb  current  there  can  he  no  difficulty;  since  the 
mass  of  water  by  which  it  is  produced  is  evidently  derived  from  the 
melting  of  the  snow  on  the  upper  lands;  Ihe  whole  of  which  finds  its 
way  in  numerous  torrents,  as  we  had  afterwards  occasion  to  see, 
through  the  valleys  which  tend  down  to  the  head  and  the  sides  of 
this  inlet  Hence  the  great  rush  of  water,  in  the  early  part,  at 
least  of  the  summer,  that  being  also  the  iime  in  which  this  place  is 
chiefly  frequented  by  the  natives,  as  it  is  the  season  of  the  fishery, 
when  the  salmon  are  labouring  to  work  their  way  upwards  from  the 

It  was  mitjnight  when  I  returned  to  the  hut,  whichhaiMen  er^ct-V 
ed  for  some  time;  after  a  much  longer  journey  than  I  had  intended, 
but  which  I  could  not  prevail  on  myself  to  shorten  when  ijBund  my- 
self  led  on  gradually  from  point  to  pbiht,  lest  I  shouW  leave  this  in- 
vestigation incomplete.  I  must  confess  that  1  was  extremely  fatigued; 
as  I  had  travelled  fifty  miles  during  this  day,  and  had  reason,  on  this 
account,  to  blime  the  stupidity  of  the  guide  in  not  having  built  a 
larger  hut.  We  had  great  difficulty  in  forcing  ourselves  into  it,  by 
all  our  ingenuity  and  perseverance;  pnd  when  there,  it  would  not 
hold  the  three  which  formed  Qur  party,  in  any  but  a  posture  between 
sitting  and  lying;  but  it  was,  for  that  reason,  the  warmer,  and  we 
contnved  to  get  some  of  the  sleep  which  fatigue  brmgs,  m  return 
for  its  grievances.  . .  ,»  .         x,  '     j 

22nd.  It  was  not,  however,  that  sleep  which  the  restless  envy,  and 
which  all  would  gladly  prolong.  We  were  much  more  glad  to  nse 
than  we  had  been  to  lie  down;  if  such  a  term  can  he  appUed  to  a  po^ 
ture  as  like  to  that  in  the  parish  stocks  as  aught  else,  or  the  word 
bed  to  a  "form"  which  even  a  hare  could  not  have  occupied,  and 
which  would  have  required  all  the  flexibility  of  a  fox  or  a  rabbit, 
luckily  it  was  a  very  fine  molfning;  and  after  having  shook  our- 
selves, like  the  bears,  1  proceeded  to  finbh  my  observations,  which 
being  completed,  we  set  out  for  the  ship. 

As  we  proceeded  down  the  inlet,  the  dogs  got  a  sight  of  three  deer 
which  were  passii^  Over  to  the  opposite  shore;  and  before  we_could 
stop  them,  or  were  well  aware  of  the  matter,  .they  set  off  in  full 
chise,  *ith  the  sledge  at  their  heels.  At  every  bound  which  this 
carriage  made  over  the  rough  ice,  some  part  of  our  ba^age  flew  out, 
to  the  great  amusement  of  our  guide,  who  shouted  with  joy  at  the 
"fun."  The  whole  wis  soon  out  of  sight;  and  we  had  nothing  to  do 
but  to  follow,  and  to  pick  up  our  instruments  and  other  matters,  as  fast 
and  as  well  as  we  could;  till,  after  three  hours  hard  walking,  we 
overtook  the  machine,  hard  wedged  between  two  pieces  of  ice,  and 
the  dogs  so  fatigued  that  they  were  scarcely -able  to  move.  No  harm 


"^1 


■ife-  _ 


\ 


TO  THE  ARCTIC  REOIOKS. 


195 


was  however  ^one.but  that  ^^ T^-^^^^XtrJ^'^^^t^^^ 
of  the  deer  was  very  different  f-XS^i  Sd     Wc  wSe  oWiged. 

therefore  Very  well  taken  care  of.  ^  ^^g. 

In  the  moriing  he  came  to  *»»«  ft £' °°*  ^JJt^^^^^        that 

dence  as  usual,  and  with  a  ~"»J.^%Jf  ^of  K^^^^^^^  «"«"P*- 

name,  we  ccild  only  at  first  conjectur^  bu  ,t  w^  probabU.  inai 

more  did  ttiw  «PP?"^7  "[^  *      ..    uu  answer  was  that  he  was  not 
asked  him  why  he  had  fofgo?®"  »J',™  *^!*th     He  after  that,  re- 

^ith^thL  peVe,  than  of  actual  .ensure     ^f  ^'J^f  JS 

l^ittSd^drdTre.'j^p^^^ 

Tin  the  case  of  tb^ft.  whether  in  Sparte  ^^^^  W  on^  dr^»5 
of  the  South  sea,  the  "M^ccessful  ri^e  wm  the  oniy^ra^^  S 

blame  or  ri<iicule;  as  the  very  fact  hat  ««  JXvrieen^rby^ 
rather:than  blamed.  C<>nfif»™  t^'^^J^T ;,  wlTba^visited  the  rude 
potheses,  and  two  errors,  among  ^'^^^''^^^''^i^^^  evpi^y  where, 
5nd  savage  tribes  of  the  worii  The  one  »J^.^»«"^;  ^jf^,  j,  the 
and  even  finds  it  disgut^djmder  the  ^rb  of  ^.  i^^ 

direct  reverse.  I «'°'»o* J»«»P^"^tSd  t^Saklt  our  Wim^^^ 
had  been  somewhat  too  ^^^^ J^^^ ^^^^inj  Zl^t  U  the 

friends  through  a  ^^m^?^?'''tf^^^^y^lL  tte  b^t  humour, 
most  comfortable  view  which  preaervM  o«««^^f  V^  T'  ^^y^^^  to 
™The  farce,.however,  ended  'l^f  >£ /^/^t  hSn:  and  he 

a  conscience  no  loDger  aching. 


V  1 


». 


vrnf^r 


»;  / 


106 


\ 


SBCORD  VOTAGB  OF  DUOOVBRT 


CHAPTER  XXIV. 


k 


V    < 


Departure  of  Commander  Ross  on  a  third  expedition — Threatening  of  a 
rupture  zoith  the  natives — Commander  Ross's  return^ 

-1830.  It  had  now,  therefore>  been  completely  ascertained  that 
there  was  no  passage  into  the  western  sea  to  the  south  of  the  70th 
degree;  and  it  therefore  became  unnecessary  to  lay  plans  for  pro- 
ceeding th  this  direction  with  the  ship.  The  more  minute  examma- 
tion  to  the  northward,  was  therefore  the  object  to  which  our  atten- 
tion was  n^xt  to  be  directed.  Thus  aiiEO  did  we  find  reason  to  be 
thankful  that  we  had  made  no' further  progress;  little,  as  we  foresaw, 
at  one  time,  that  we  should  have  come  to  such  a  determination  as 
this.  Had  that  been  the  case,  we  should  have  been  entangled  still 
deeper  in  a  bay  encumbered  with  peculiarly  heavy  ice,  and  after  all, 
been  obliged  to  retrace  our  steps  to  the  northward;  while  under  in- 
^  finitely  greater  difficulties  in  extricating  ourselves,  and  perhaps  not 
to  have  rescued  t>ur  ship  from  the  ice  during  the  whole  summer. 
It  was  not  an  unimportant  part  of  the  report  of  this  journey  to  find 
that  reindeer  had  been  seen  only  twelve  miles  to  the  south  of  our 
place,  with  innamcrable  tracts  of  the  same  animal,  attended  by  the 
traces  of  their  enemies,  the  wolves. 

'  AprU2Sd.  Being  St.  George's  day,  the  usual  ceremony  of  a  royal 
salute  and  the  di^lay  of  flags  was  adopted.  Therie  was  no  one,  in- 
deed, to  witfness  this  custoinary  loyalty;  but  it  was  right  to  maintain 
the  etique^tte  of  the  servfce.  The  better  part  of  the  day,  after  tbi^ 
was  occupied  io  cutting  out  .the  rudder,  which  had  received  some 
damage  m>m  the  Ice;  but  there  was  still  a  holiday  left  for  the 
crew.  Some  of  the  natives  arrived;  and  the  guide  boy  passed  on  his 
way  home.  .  ' 

24th.  The  inornitig  began  fine,  bat  ended  with  snow  from  the 
northward,  j^aking  an  excursion  to  the  top  of  the  neighbouring 
hill,  two  of  the  natives  joined  me,  and  pointed  out  the  position  of 
Shag-a-voke,  when  I  also  ascertained  those  of  many  more  places 
that  were  named,  and  learned  the  native  names  of  some  of  those 
'  which  we  had  seen,  as  well  as  of  our  own  place  and  the  immediate 
neighbourhood.  We  afterwards  purchased  what  they  had,  and  sent 
them  home  fortified  with  a  djnner.  The  ice  in  the  tanks  was  this 
day  reduced  to  a  bushel  and  a  half  for  the  week ;  so  much  less  was 
the  evaporation  within,  under  the  recent  temperature. 

fiSth.  It  was  cold  in  the  wind,  though  the  thermometer  was  at  2° 


■/ 


jt^s" 


TO  TUB  ARCTIC  REGIONS. 


107 


iH 


plus;  and  there  were  some  showers  of  ijnow,  with  an  overcast  sky. 
We  received  a  visit  from  the  people  in  the  northern  village,  who  were 
about  to  remove  to  NeitchUlee.  Nothing  else  interfered  with  our 
usual  duties  and  repose  on  Sunday.  •  rru 

On  Monday,  the  natives  arrived  from  their  three  stations.  1  here 
were  some  skins  to  sell,  and  there  was  also  a  present  of  boots  for 
Commander  Ross,  from  the  mother  of  his  guide,  as  a  testimony^  of 
gratitude.  It  was  settled  after  this,  that  they  shojtild  furnish  another 
guide  next  day,  to  an  expedition  intended  to  the  northward  for  the 
purpose  of  examining  the  reported  passage  in  that  direction;  but  as 
it  afterwards  was  discovered  that  some  of  them  were  to  go  there  on 
their  own  pursuits,  the  arrangements  were  made  accordingfcjr* 

27/A.  Commander  Ross  and  one  of  the  matis  departed  to  explore 
the  inlet  to  the  northward.  At  the  village  aU  was  confusion,  in 
consequence  of  tlje  death  of  a  child  that  had  been  killed  by  a  stone 
falling  on  it  The  father  and  five  brothers  came  out,  in  an  appa- 
rently frantic  state,  withlheir  knives  in  their  hands;  and  as  it  was 
doubtful  what  this  meant,  our  own  party  prepared  their  guns,  on 
which  the  father  was  forced  back  into  the- hut,  and  peace  was 
restored.  It  was  then  settled  that  the  man-and  boy,  who  had  been 
previously  engaged,  should  accompany  the  party  in  the  morning, 
being  confident  that  they  should  see  musk  oxen.  On  board  we  had 
abundant  work,  in  caulking  the  ship  as  far  as  the  men  could  con- 
trive  to  reach;  and  this,  with  other  preparations  for  our  future  jour- 
ney^ occupied  the  following  day  also,  which  presented  no  particular 
*  ♦       ♦  •  ■  » 

29th.  The  two  last  dUM  lad  been  'graduallv  becoming  colder,  aod 
the  thermometer  to-day  was  at  ijriinus  2°.  The  caulking  and  pitch- 
ing were  finished,  and  the  men  commenced  to  fit  the  skms  on  the 
canoe  frame  which  they  had  prepared.  The  thermometer  at  night 
sank  to  minus  9*^  and  a  snow  storm  came  on  in  the  morning,  witb 
the  wind  from  the  northward.  It  was  impossible  to  work  outside  of 
the  ship,  and  we  received  no  visits.     ,  ,  .,    ^  xu    c    *  i.  if 

In  summing  up  this  last  month,  I  may  remark  that  the  first  ball 
was  much  warmer  than  was  to  have  been  expected  at  this  sea- 
son: but  the  end  was  so  cold,  that  the  average  for  the  whole  was 
zero.  The  most  important  of  the  events  in  it  were  the  two 
journeys:  and  the  sum  of  the  information  procured  by  them  appeared 
to  be  the  following:  .  •         rrk 

We  were  sure  that  we  were  on  the  continent  of  Amenca.  ine 
western  sea  had  been  seen;  but  we  found  also,  that  if  there  was  any 
passage  to  it,  that  must  be  within  a  degree  to  the  northward  of  our 
'  position,  at  the  bottom  of  Prince  Regent's  inlet,  and  in  CressweU  ba.p^. 
where,  after  sailing  up  six  miles,  no  land  could  be  seen  in  any  di- 
rection. As  the  Umits  to  .osr  necessary  researches  were,  thus,  mucli 
contracted,  our  obvk>us  boiiness  was  to  examine  minutely  the  seve- 
ral inlets  to  the  northward;  while,  should  we  find  »b  passage,  we 
should  return  to  Prince  Regent's  inlet,  and  examine  the  only  j(e- 


l^^  \ 


■M 


.^->'? 


If  ■  ■': 


nt 


^ 


108 


u. 


\ 


\  • 


'&^ 


sEodi%i^orAaB  or  discovert 


mainihg  opening  on  the  isouth  side  of  Lieopold's  island.  This  had 
«  been  done,  as  far  as  it  could  by  lanid,  in  the  first  journey;  but  the 
result,  thus  far,  was  not  satbfactory.  It  was  for  a  future  day  to 
know  the  success  of  the  expedition  on, which  CQjhmander  Ross  hhd 
just  proceeded.  ''^      '  ■ 

Much  needful  work  had  been  done  in  the  ship,  and  the  men  were 
in  good  health:  they  had  even  escaped  the  usual  inflammation  of 
the  eyes  from  snow;  excepting  the  mate,  who  had  suffered  from  it 
in  his -first  journey.  The  i(;e  had  bedii  found  seven  feet  and'^a  half 
thick;  and  we  did  ndt  e;xpect  that  it  would  increase  any  more. 
^^  Many  good  observations  had  been  made,  and  the  experiments  on 
sound  continued:  but  the  results  of  these  were  so  irregular,  that  we 
<      ikncw  not  yet  what  conclusibns  to  draw. 

May  1st.  This  was  not  the  May-day  of  the  poets,  but  it  was  mitil, 
at  least,  till  the  evening,  when  there  was  a  strong  north-easterly 
breeze.  There  were  n\  visits  from  natives:  and  though  many  hares 
were  seen,  none  were  killed.  We  expected  tire  return  of  our  party 
.  to-day,  in  vain.  The  midnight  temperature  was  minus  4°,  and  the 
barometer  fell  half  an  jnch.\ 

2n</.   There  were  still  no  signs  of  our  party,  nor'did  the  natives 

'  v^t  us.    After  chnrdi,  the  mate  and  a  party  went  five  miles  in' the 

.-     direction  in  which  they  were  expected;  but  returned  without  any 

tidings.    The  thermometer  rose,  for  some  hours,  to  plus  18°:  no  pb- 

^  ^     servations  could  be  taken,  excepting  a  transit  of  th&moon;  su^h  was 

A      the  state  of  the  skv. 

3d.  Our  party  being  still  absent,  we  began  to  be  anxious:  and 

Mr.  Thorn,  with  the  sui^eon  and  two  men,  were  consequently  sent  to 

the  northern  huts,  to  see  if  the  natives  were  still  there,  and,  if  not, 

'   to  deposit  a  supply  of  provisions,  with  a  signal  to  give  notice  of  its 

place:  it  was  possible  they  might  want  it,  and  they  would  thus  be 

enabled  to  continue  oat,  and  proceed^in  their  investigations  without 

^  returning  to  the  ship.    In  the  mean  time,  however,  some  natives 

arrived  from  another  pillage,  and  informed  us  that  our  party  would 

arrive  the  next  day,  with  a  musk  ox  vrhich  they  had  killed.    They 

u        sold  some  skins  and  received  their  dinners;  being  nine  in  number. 

Shortly  afterwards,  Mr.  Thorn  returned;  and  having  found  the  huts 

emptv  executed  his  commission.  It  was  certain  that  they  were  gone  to 

.     Neitcliillee;  but  those  who  had  l^eD  with  us  were  to  remain  some 

time  longer;\ 

4(A.\0ur  party  returned  in  the  afternoon  to  our  great  siatisFactlon. 

,  •  They  bad  killed  two  musk  bulls,  and  had  brought  part  of  them 

within  three  miles  of  the  ship.    It  ivas  much  more  important  to 

■    know  that  they  had  found  a  channel  leading  to  the  western  sea:  but, 

— ^-  as  on  the  former  •occasion.  Commander  IUm's  narrative  must  be 

SIven  in  his  own  words.    We  kist  no  time  in  sending  for  part  of  the 
cef:  the  aniinals  had  been  uni|sually  large  ones.    Many  reindeer 
had  been  se^n;  and  some  y^^rmiganB  shot  on  the  wing,  to  the  great 


-flBrprise  of  the  patiTe 


giuacj^ 


-  .*. 


f 


t¥' 


This  had 
y;  but  the 
ire  day  to 
r  Ross  hhd 


TO  THE  AtlCTtC  RfSCIONS. 


CHAPTER  XXV. 


109 


.  ♦•..■-^^■ 


I  men  were 
nmation  of 
ed  from  it 
Eind'^a  half 
any  more, 
iriments  on 
ir,  that  we 

t  was  mild, 
'th-easterly 
many  hares 
f  our  party 
4°,  and  the 

the  natives 
niles  in' the 
ithout  any 
18°:  no  |>b- 
a;  such  was 

ixious:  and 
ntly  sent  to 
ind,  if  not, 
lotice  of  its 
lid  thus  be 
)n8  without 
me  natives 
arty  would 
led.  They 
in  number, 
(id  the  huts 
'ere  gone  to 
main  some 

tatisFaction. 
rt  of  them 
iportant  to 
ra  sea:  but, 
'e  must  be 
part  of  the 
ly  reindeer 
0  the  great 


Mtrrative  of  Commander  Hoss. 

A&  the  season  was  now  rapidly  adducing,  I  became  very  desirous, 
ifit  was  possible,  to  visit  that  place  to  the  northward  which  the 
•natives  called  Aw-wuk-too*te-ak,  as  a  preparation  for  the  journey- 
which  we  had  projected  to  the  Western  Ocean.  The  Esquimaux 
had  now  also  broken  up  into  different  parties;  _and  we  were  there^ 
fore  afraid  that  they  would  all  quit  oujr  neighbourhood  befQre  we  ' 
had  ascertained  the  position  of  that  place.  It  was,  to  us,  a  very 
important  one,  if  their  information  was  correct:  since  they  said  that, 
beyond  that  point,  the  coast  turned  and  extended  to  the  north-west, 
and  that  this  was  the  only  route  by  which  we  could  get  round  to  the 
sea  of  Nei-tyel-le  Correct  as  this  information  .might  be,  for  aught 
that  we  could  suppose,  to  the  contrary,  having  no  grounds  to  form 
any^nclusion,  we  thought  it  a  remarkable  circumstance,  as  it  was 
ooewhich  diminished  our  confidence  in  the  reporters;  that  although 
many  of  these  people  had  been  at  Aw-wuk-too-te-ak,  and  some  of 
them  three  or  four  days'  journey  beyond  it,  none  had  ever  gone  io 
Nei-tyel-le  by  the  route  which  they  indicated. to  us.  All  their  in- 
formation was  derived  from  report;  and  when  they  spoke  of  a  com- 
munication between  the  eastern  and  western  seas,  existing  at  a  cer- 
tain point,  we  began  to  suspect  that  this  was  «it  so  great  a  distance 
as  probably  to  imply  the  passage  at  Barrow  straits. 

But  under  any  ibubts,  whether  Aw-wuk-t6p-te-ak  was  situated 
at  no  greater  distance  than  we  were  told,  or  wherever  it  might  prove 
to  be,  it  was  most  needful  that  we  should  see  it  The  country  was 
qdite  unknown  to  us;  every  thing  arouj^was  equally  obscure  or 
doubtful;  however  generally  accurate  the/geographical  descriptions 
of  these  people  had  proved,  they  could  neirer  be  thoroughly  trusted; 
the  land  bight  be  inte^ected  at  any  part  by  ndrrow  straits,  or  we 
might  be  oli  an  islaiilk  while,  under  any  view/ it  was  our«  business 
to  search  this  countl^  as  we  would  seeic  for  tne  mouth  of  a  river; 
since  for  this  purpose  we  had  conp,  and  sinceiWe  could  never  fore- 
see where  the  long  sought  honour  might  not  pe  lying  in  wait  to  re- 
ward our  exertions.  ^-       ,     ,       7 

A  large  party  of  the  Esquimaux  had  come/to  the  ship  while  these 
reflections  were  pasting  through  our  mind^  and  taking  advantage 
of  this  incident,  one  of  them  wa»  engaged  to  conduct  me  to  the  place 
in  question,  and  the  arrangements  made  for  our  departure  on  the 
following  morning.  I  was  to  be  accompanied  by  the  mate  Aber- 
nethy;  and  the  surgeon  was  to  attend  me  to  the  huts,  where  the 

"  I  was,  to  meet  M,  that-^^ 


N,.' 


¥ 


tf- 


^^»    '.    U        N 


r. 


ii 

M 


"-♦ 


=4 


200 


SECOND.  VOTAQE  OF  DISCOVERT 


\ 


Roes  of  the  nature  of  our  figal  arraYigements  for  the  pmneynSaetfT^ 
and  of  the  probable  time  of  our  absence;  so  ^that,  if  neeaiul,  he 
might  take  Iheaaures  for  supplying  us  with  provisions. 

We  departed  accordingly,  early  in  the  morning  pf  tlie  27th  of 
April,  and  approaching  the  huts,  were  .exceedingly  disappointed  at 
not  hearing  the  cheerful  shouts  with  which  we  had  been  usually 
greeted.  That  was  succeeded  by  a  very  disagreeable  surprise,  on 
finding  that  the  women  and  children  had  been  all  sent. out  of  the 
way,  since  we  knew  this  to  be«  rignal  of  war;  a  fact  of  which  we 
were  sp'eedily  convinced  by  seeing  that  all  the  men  were  armed  with 
theur  knives.  The  ijerce  and  sullen  looks  of  these  people  also  boded 
mischief:  but  what  the  cause  of  all  this  could  be,  it  was  quite  im< 
po^ible  to  conjecture.  • 

We  could  see  them  better  than  they  could  distinguish  us,  as,  the 
sun  was  in  their  faces;  it  was  the  noise  of  our  dogs  which  eave  them  , 
notice  of  our  arrival  and  proximity;  and  as  soon  as  this  '^as  heard,  ode 
of  them  rushed  out  of  a  hut,  brandishing  the  large  knife  used  in  at- 
tacking bears,  while  the  tears  were  streaming  down  his  aged  and 
furrowed  face,  which  was  turniilg  wildly  rodnd  in  search  of  the  ob- 
jects  of  his  animosity.  In  an  instant  he  lifted  his  arm  to  throw  his 
weapon  at  myself  and  the  surgeota,  who  were  then  within  a  few 
yar<»  of  him,  having  advanced  in  order  to  ascertain  the  Cause  of  ali 
this  commotion.  But  the  sun,  dazzling  him,  caused  him  to  suspend 
his  arm  for  ah  instant;  when  one  of  his  sons  laid  hold  of  his  uphfted 
hand,  and  gave  us  a  moment's  time  for  reflection. 

The  result  of  that  was,  of  course,  an  immediate  preparation  for 
defence;  though  we  could  have  done  little  against  such  odds  as  our 
unexpected  enemies  displayed.  We  therefore  retired  to  the  sledge, 
where  I  had  left  my  gun;  and  not  daring  again  to  quit  it,  as  Mr, 
Abernethy  had  noarms,  y^&ited  for  the  result,  while  loang  ourselves 
in  vain  conjectures  r^pecting  thejcause  of  offence,  seeing  that  we 
had  parted  good  friends  on  the  preceding  day. 

The  ferocious  old  man  Pow-weet-yah  was  still  held  fast,  and  now 
by  both  his  sons,  who  had  pinioned  bis  arms  behind  him;  though  he 
strove  hard  to  disengage  himself;  while  the  rest  of  the  party  seem- 
ed to  be  standing  in  r^diness  to  second  any  attempt  which  he  might 
^  make  on  us.  Tl^t  there  was  some  diflference  of  opinion  among  theni, 
however,  and  that  all  were  not  equally  hostife,  was  plain  from  the' 
conduct  of  these  young  men;  so  that  we  could  still  hope  for  some 
parley  before  matters  came  to  extremity.  They  now  bc^n  to  talk 
among  themselves,  and  then  separated  in  such  a  manner  as  to  be 
ready  to  surround  us,  which  having  nearly  effected,  and  we  not 
choosing  to  be  so  cut  off  from  th6"bhip,  I  warned  those  whb  were 
closine  m  on  the  rear,  to  desist.  This  produced  a  short  pause,  and 
a  still  shorter  conference;  but  they  immediately  again  b^n  to 
close  in,  brtindishing  their  kniyes  in  defiance,  according  to  their josuaI 
custom,  and  had  nearly  gained  their  object,  wheft  finding  that  fur- 
ther forbearance  would  be  huzardoo^rl-placed  the  guntany  shoul- 


iro  THE  ARCTIC  RBGI0H8>    •* 


ediuU  he 


e  27th  of 
>inted  at  . 
n  usually 
'prise,  on 
lit  of  the 
which  we 
med  with 
Iso  boded 
quite  im< 

[S,  as,  the 
avethiem  , 
leard,  one 
Bed  in  at- 
aged  and 
)f  the  ob- 
throw  his 
lin  a  few 
luse  of  ali 
>  suspend 
s  uphfted 

ration  for 
ds  as  our 
le  dedee, 
it,  as  Mr, 
ourselves 
that  we 

,  and  now 
:hough  he 
rty  seem- 
I  he  might 
ingtheni, 
from  the' 
t  for  some 
m  to  talk 
as  to  be 
id  we  not 
««rhft  were 
auto,  and 
began  to 
beir^nftl 
that  fur- 


901 


ler,  and  was  about  to  fire,  ilrhen  I  fortunately  saw  that  the  threat 
alone  was  sufficient  to  give  them  a  check.  With  little  loss  of  time, 
those  who  had  advanced/ nearest  broke  ofl^  in  evident  alarm,  and 
retreated  toward/'their  hut^  thus  leaving  us  an  o^n  passage  in  the 
rear.  • 

But  as  I  could  not  induce  any  of  them  to  approach,  or  to  answer 
my  questions,  we  continued  ^for  nearly  half  an  hour  in  this  state  of 
suspense  and  perplexity,' when  we  were  relieved  hj  the  coura|ge  or 
confidence  of  one  of  the  women,  who  came  out  of  a  hut  just  as  I 
was  again  raising  my  gun,  aind  called  to  me  not  to  fire,  advancing  up 
to  our  pkrtj  immediately;  withoht  showing  the  least  mark  of  fear^ 

From  her,  we  soon  learned  the  cause  of  all  this  hubbub,  which, 
absurd  as  it  was,  rpight  have  had  a  fatal  termtnationf  as  we  should 
probably  have  been  the  chief  suflferers.  One  of  Pow-weet-yah's 
adopted  sons,  a  fine  bov  of  seven  or  eight  years  of  age,  whoini  we 
knew,  had  b6ea  killed  on  tbb  preceding  nigjit,  by  the  falling  of  a 
stone  on  his  head.  This  they  had  ascribed  to  diir  agency,  through 
the  supifernfilljj^l  powers  which  we  were  believed  to  possess;  while 
the  fatMMkof  very  unnaturallv  under  this  conviction,  had  meditat- 
ed  rdfll^p  the  manner  which  we  had  experienced. 

I  nHRlch  difficulty  in  persuading  the  good  woman  that  we 
were  totally  ignorant  of  this  cieitastrophe,  and  that  wie  were,  very 
fiOOf  for  the  misfortune;  she  however  repeated  all  that  I  ha^  sfiid 
to  two  of  t|ie  men  who  bad  not  taken  any  diare  in  the  business  of 
the  attq^k,  and  who  now  approached  us  unarmed,  in  token  of 
peace.  Their  object  was  to  persuade  us  to  go  back  to  the  ship,  and 
to  return  in  three  days,  when  they  offered  to  be  our  guides  to  the 
desired  place.  But  mapy  reasons  opposed  this  scheme;  of  which 
the  chief  was,  that  a^his  was  the  first  misunderstanding  that  had 
occurred  between  U8,'^4t  was  essential  to  come  to  an  understandings 
and  to  renew  our  friendships,  without  any  delay,  lest  the  opportu- 
nity should  not  again  occur;  as  they  might  go  away  in  the  mean 
time  whether  from  fear  of  our  returning'in  greater  numbers,  or  for 
any  other  reason,  and  thus,  not  only  cause  H  lasting  estrangement 
as  to  themselves,  but  a  general  hostility  or  desertion  on  the  p'art^  , 
all  the  natives  within  their  connexions  or  reach;  thus  rendering  the 
whole  land  our  enemies.  I  therefore  objected  to  this  proposal,  and 
declared  that  I  would  not  go  back  till  we  were  ajl  once  more  good 
friends:  when  perceiving  that, the  hostile  party  was  gradually  ap- 
proaching our  groupe,  though,  probably,  but  to  hear  the  conversa-' 
tion  that  was  passing,  I  drew  a  line  on  the  snow,  and  declared  that 
non%  of  them  should  cross  it  without  putting  away  their  knives, 
which  they  still  continued  to  grasp  in  their  ^ht  hands,  with  their 
arms  folded  across  the  breast.  Aftfrwme  (^Venation  among  them- 
selves thdr  grim  visages  began  to  rdax,  the  knives  were  put  up; 
and,  becoming  at  last  apparently  convinced  that  we  had  no  concern 
in  the  death  of  this  boy,  they  seemed  now  very  anxious  to  remove 
86     ♦  •• 


•  li 


(0 


m 


208 


itEOOND  VOYAOIC  OF  OISCOVERr 


'  •  » 


h 


f  % 

the  unfavourable  impression  whichjtheir  conduct,  as  they  must  needa 
conclude,  had  made  onus.  -  'XL^ 

Wf,  they  still  urged  ua  to  ffeturn  .ttK|te  ship,  because,  as  they 
Balafit  was  impcwsible  fbt  them  to  make  asCof  their  d<^  till  three  . 
days  had  passed  away  after Ihe  death  of^aiiy  ond  belonging  to  a 
fatally.  Though  in  all  probability  this  was  really  a  fua^jntt  usage, 
or  a  settled  period  of  mouYnin'g,  1  was  unwilling  io  yield  ^his  point, 
could  I  possibly  carry  it;  as  the  loss  of  even  three  d^ys-at^this  sea- 
80n  w^s  an  important  tonsideratiolj.    *;  %  j'        *' 

,  1  tfetrefore  produced  a  large  file,  offering  itd  to  aiiyw^  of- the 
party  who  would  go  with  me,  and  assuriisK"  t^m  at  4he  same  time, 
that-if  lhey*all  refoSed  I  should  go  alonefatid  tK6y  would  thus  lose 
'the  reward.  On  this,  a  consultation  of  some  minutes*  took  place, 
in  jvhich  I  heard  the  word,'!Erk-she"  (angry)' frequently  used,  ac- 
companied by  my  name:  nf^ich'  being  ended,  the  man  called  Ppo- 
yet-tah  seciQed  to  yield  to  his  .wif<^'s  Entreaties,  and  offered  to  ac- 
company me,  provided  I  wbuld  allow ll-lik-tah,  a  fine  lad  of  sixteen  ^ 
,  or  seventeen,  to  be  associated  with  higi.  ■ .    • 

This,  I  of 'course  agreed  to,  as  two  companions  would  be  more 
useful  than  one;  and  they  accordingly  went.off  to  the  huh  to.pre- 
pare  for  the  journey.  That  the  peac^  was  now  considered  as  per- 
fectly re-established,  there ,  could  jpio  linger  be  any  doubt;  sincd. 
they  crowded  round  us,  soo^ -resuming  tHeir  usual  friendly  and  con- 
fidential behaviour,  and  putting  on  that  cheerfulness  of  countenanipe 
which  wfts~^eir  habitual  expression.  .  .        ^ 

If  I  have  dwelt  on  this  adventure  at 'some  length,  it  is  befcause 
this  was  the  only  occasion  on'which  they  ever  showed, "any  hostile 
feelings  toward  us,  during  all  the  years  which  we  passed  in  their 

"  neighbouchood.    I  must  not,  howeven,  take  to  myself  all  the  merit - 
of  having  brought  our  little  party  out  of  this  advehture  in  safety:  the  , 

'  coolness  and  self-possession  of  nw  two  companions  were  mainly  con- 
ducive to  a  termination  of  that,*ih  which  the  least  act  of  temerity, 
or  incaution  might  have  c<»t  tjic  whole.of  us  our  lives. 

It  was  at  ten  o'clock  that  we  comnfenced  our  journeytotirards 
tig  north-west  conifer  of  thebay,  and  we  tvere  followed  by  the  acV 
clamations  of  our  friends  as  long  as  we  Were  within  hearing  Mr. 
M'Diarmid  w^nt  back,  as  wtis  agreed,  to  inform  Captain  Ross  of 

■  what  had  happen^,  and  to  say  tliat-wd  expected  to  be  absent  four 
or  five  days,  as  far  as  \  gluld  judge  fi^m  the  calculation  of  the 
guide;  so  that  ouc  party  consisted  now  but  of  four,  including  the 
two  Esquimaux.  •  .       ' 

^  The  baggage  and  provisions  were  placed  on  two  sledges,  each 
drawn  by  six  does;  and  by  their/aid,  wfc  travelled  very  quickly  over 
the  smooth  ice  of  the  bay.  •  After  having  thus  made  ten  or  twelve 
>  miles,  the  gui^e  Poo-yet-tah  stopped  his  sledge,  and  said  that  he* 
wab  going  to  a  deal  hole  that  he  knew  of,  at  some  distance  on  our 
left  hand.    As  I  could  not  help  suspecting  that  he  might  leave  ua 


>.«•:— 


-,K^,, 


•TI- 


TO THE  ARCTIC  REOIQITS. 


308 


kni  return  to  the  hots,  I  proposed  to  accompaliy  him;,  to  which ^fae 
consented  without  any  besitiation.  .  -    ,     u  '\  , 

V  it  After  we  had  walked  some  time,  he,  bein^'iJI^advaQce,  turned 

^      C9und,  and«  striking  roe  on  the  breast,  said  that!  was  "good;"  wh^n 
^remar^ing  aisM  for  the  first  time,  that  I  had  leTt  Ihy  gun  (behind,  h<* 
plac^  his  spear  i^my  hand,  saying  that  I  should  be  armed  as  well 
as  he,  and  drew  from, his  dress,  where  it  'had  been  concealed,  his    , 
long  knii^for  hi3<own  arm. ,,  On  arriving  at  the  seal  hole,  he  lay 
down,  add,  putting  hjs  nose  to  the  slight  coating  of  sBow  by  which     * 
it  was  covered,  said  that  Ihe  animal  iuid  deserted  it  for  some  days. 
As' there  was  thus  nothing  to  be  gained,  we  returned  to  the  sledges  ; 
and  continued  our  journeyj  each,  by  turns,  undert^ing  to  lead  oo^ 
foot,  and  then,  in  rotation,  taking  his  seat  in  the  vehicle.  K    <  V  , 

At  two  in  the  afternoon  we  entered  an  iqjet  which  ^the',guide  ' 
called  Au'-ne^reak-to,  runiing  in  a  north-north-west^f^ire^tioil,  and' 
.being  about  a  mil6<  wide  at  the  entrance.    The  eastern,  cape  of  the 
,     opening  wa«  named  by  him  Ne-ak-kog-e-nek;  an  appellation  derived  ^.> 

'  from  a  rock  projecting  through;  the  shingle,  ^hich,  bore  a  fancied 
resemblance  to  a  human  head.  The  western  pctint,  termed  Neck- 
ler-rid-yeoo,  forms  the  terminatttn  6(  Ac-cdoo-le-ruk-tul^  a  Dame 
which  they  seem  to  apply  to  all  pieces  of  land;  or  peninfblas,  which 

^'are  nearly  surrounded  by  water,  be  that  fresh  pi^salt  *'  '  / 

•     We  continued,  hence,  to  journey  along  the  western  shore  Ytf 'this  "^ 
inlet,  tilt  \9e  entered  the  mouth  of  a  river,  about  a.mile  and  a«half 
from  its  entrance  turning  off  to  t|)e  west-north-west,  and  leaving  tov 
our  right  the  termination  of  An-iife-reak-t<^ .  This  part  of  the  rivfer  is]. 
called  Ac-cood-]e-it-'j[>ang-ut,  and,  thbugb  coverH  with .  freshwater)  ^ '. 
ice,  bore  evident  mar^s  of  a^rise  and  mll^^f  the  tide^on  its,/BhoreA  ^ 
'At  three Vflock  we  arrived  at  a  poifit'  where  tiie^stream  was  coWta  ^ 

'  tracted,  so  as  to  produce  a  rapid,  or  jGall,  of  about  twenty  yards  in 
length;  but  hence  our  journey  hccame  exceedingly  lab^ribus,  as  the    - 
wlMle^alley  was  so  filled  with'loose  snow  that  we  could  no  longer 
pursue  the  windings  of  the  river  as.we  had  hitherto  do^c.   I'hus'far,  \ 

.    the  right  bifik  of  the  streaq  consisted  of  loose  blocks  of  ]im^one,» 
through  which  masses  of  gneiss  could  'be  seen  projiecting  in  idifSretjit.   . 
places,,  while  the  left  side  ascended  from  the  water  in  a  gentle 
slope,  so  as  to  attain  an  eleyaition  of  a  hundred  feet  at  the  distance  d,f 
•     a  mile,        '  v  .    ' 

At  ilk  we  came  io  a  small  .lake,  which  is  the  source  of  this  rjver,  I 
surrdunded  h^.  high,  rugged,  or  precipitous  shores,  the  ravine;  of; 

".  which  were  "filled  with  closely-packed  drift  snow,  by  ^which  the  ■ 
summits  of  the  hills  in  the  distance  were  also  CQvered.  From  tfaisi^/ 
place  we  then  turned  more  to  the  northward;arossing  a  high  ridge  for 
the  purpose  of  reaching  anoither  lakMMand  undergping  great  labour 
darmg  an  ascent  of  an  hour  add  h  iSalf,  from  the  steepness  of  the 
ground  and  the  depth  of  the  snow.  It  was  not  till  ten  at  night  that 
we  arrived  at  our  halting  pkce,  and  finished  this  day's  Journey; 


' 


.\ 


*11 


■»  * 


'%..■ 


804 


v«^ 


4EC01fD  VOTAGB  OF  DISOOVfiRY 


i 


J 


men,  and  dogs  top,  all  equally  tired^with  a  laborious  struggle  against  ' 
a  high  wind  and  driving  snow,  during'a  space  of  thirty  niiles  which 
we  computed  that  we  had  tlravelled.  .< 

The  two  Esquimaux  soon' erectetl  an  excellent  snow  hut,  %nd, 
after  our  Apper  Wfrozen  meat,  we  betook  ourselves  to  rest;  being 
all  so  fatigued  that  we  ceftild-not  converse,  even  on  the  events  of  the  . 
morning,  pn  whitfh  I  sholild  otherwise  have  entered,  for  the  purpote 
of  understanding  better  the  nature  of  their  funeral  usages,  as  well  as 
thatJtinightconvmceniyselfof  the  entire  removal  of.  all  their  fancies 
respecting  our  superitetural  and  mischievouf  agency.  - 
,S^h,  The  night  was  extremely  tempestuous;  andjn^the  morning, 

V\:  ' —     - ^.jtiblew  very  hard  from  the  north,  vrilh a  heavy  driving  snow,  so^that 

we  could  not  quit  our  hut  till  nine.    From  this  cause  we  made  very 

little  way  till  towards  noon,  when  the  wind  moderated  a  good  dejil, 

after  which  the  day  became  beautiful.    The  latitude^  by  a  meri- 

^  dional  observation,  was  70"  26'  19",  andat  this  time,  being  noon,  wc 

i)assed  a  great  number  of  ESaquimaux  marks  placed  on  an  islet  in  a 
arge  lake.  This,  as  our  guides  informed  us,  was  a  fishing  statimi 
much  frequented  in  the  summer  and  autumn;  the  lake  abounding 
with  salmon  during  these  seasons,  which  wag  the  time  during^which. 
they  ascended  from  the  sea,  through  a  river Hvhich  finds  its  exit  from 
the  north-eastern  corner  of  this  piece  of  water.  The  station  itself 
was  called  Nap-pur-re-uk-ta-lig.  This  place  is  entirely, surrounded 
by  granite  hilM,  and  the  islets  consist  of  the  same  ropk.  Thelaktf 
itaeu'is  of  a  very  Irregular  shape,  and  of  cimsid^ra^le  extent  from 
the  north-east  to  the  south-west.  ' 

Leaving  this  spot,  we  crossed  this  piece  of  water  in  a  north-wo-  • 
terly  direction,  but  found  the  travelling  very  laborious,  from  the 
great  depth  of  the  snow,  which  lyas  also  loose,  and  occupied  the 
couneof^he  river  and  lake:  being  unfortunately  the  directwn  most 
convenient  for  us;  This,  like  all  similar  places  in  this  cotintry,  ther 
called  It-tib-lin-ne-ak.  Thdueh  the'  road  was  as  bad  as  could  well 
be,  throughout  the  whole  of  this  hollow,  pr  Watercourse,  theire  was 
one  place  which  far  outdid  all  the  rest.  This  was  a  frften  rapid  in 
the  river,  whcfi^in  addition  to  the  irre^lairity  and  roughness  of  the 
ice,  which  also  projected  in  slippery  masses  through  the  loose  snow, 
the  declivity  was  so  vonsiderabfe  that  the  sledges  ran  down  ifwith 
fearful  rapidity,  gettine  before  the  dogs,  which  they  draped  along,  « 
and  endangering  the  vehicles  themselves,  with  all  which  they  tbarried. 

We  found  a  safer,  though  a  more  rugged  path  for  ourselves,  and 
halted  at  five  o'clock  to  make  the  necessary  observatiohs  for  the 
longitude.  It  was  not  very  wonderful  that  the  sight  of  the  instru- 
ments revived  in  the  mind  of  the  guide  the  belief  in  our  powers  of 
conjuration.  And  as  the  idea  of  eating  is  ever  predominant  in  the 
mind  of  an  Esquimaux,  while  hunting  and  fishing  are  klmost  the 
only  occupation  of  their  lives,  his  inquiries  took  this  very  natural 
turn.    Should  w^  find  any  musk  oxen  by  means  of  this  inexplicable 


■S- 


•I* 


4iS  * 


TO  THV  ARCTIC  REOIOKS. 


205 


irasswork,  -or,  see  them  among  the  hills,  vrhile  looking  so  intensely- 
through -these  tubes  and  glasses?  In  fact,  we  were  in  the  parts  fre- 
quented by  those  animals;  and  it  was  a  very*  natural  conclusion  that 
w6  had  come  thus  far,  and  taken  all  this  trouble,  for  that  most  im- 
portant of  all  purposes,  a  dinner  or  a  feast  Poo-yet^tah  had  yet  to 
learn  that  civilized  Europeans  must  gain  their  dinnjsrs  by  operations 
much  more  circuitdus  than  killing  and  eatine  them;\and  would  have 
been  puzzled  to  understand  a  system^  which  had  brought  so  many 
'men  in  a  large  ship^  all  the  way  from  England  to  his  shores,  that 
they  might  commaad  the  means  of  prMent  and  future  dinners  by 
measuring  angles  and  looking  at  the  moOn.  .        - 

I  was  %  no  means  desirous,  however,  of  paarihg  for  a  conjuror. 
We  had  found  ourselves  in  a  sufficiently  awkward  predicament  al- 
ready, in  consequence  c(f  .this,  to  us,  unenviable  reputation;  sind  I 
therefore  declitred  my  total  ignorance  of  all  musk  oxen  and  their 
ways.  At  this  he  ie«med  ereatly  disappointed,  and  then  proposed 
that  we  should  build  a  hut  m  this  place,  to  watch  for  them;  but  on 
my  expVessing  my  desire  to  go,stiH  further  this  day,  he  quickly  again 
pu^  on  his  eopd-tempered  face,  and  we  proceeded  accordingly. 

In  less  than  half  art  hour  his  sharp  eyes  observed  the  tracks  of 
several  ofihese^iiiiak  on*  the  fa^^of  the  ste(ep  hill,  at- the  foot  of 
which  oi^no^  nit.  ^  On  examining  them,  he  found  tl^at  ^  animals 
had  passra  many  diays  before:  but  making  a  further  sei|ich  he  soon 
found  the  tqaces  of  two  which  he  asserted  to  have  been  %t  this  spo( 
on  this  very  evening  We  therefore  went  back  to  the  sMges;  and 
after  selecting  a  Qpw  to  build  a  hut,  and  leaving  the  work'to  be  ex- 
ecuted b^  the  lK>yt  lie  took:  his  bow  and  airovre  and  set  ofl^  leading 
two  of  his  dogs  in  couples,  and  desiring  me  to  follow  with  my  gun 
and  favourit^og  Tup-to^clvua. 

On  r^ainmg  the  tracks,  he  immediately  let  slip  the  dogs,  and  I 
followed  his  example  with  mine.  They  went  oflT.at  full  speed,  and 
were  very  SQpn  out  of  sight;  as  the  nature  of  the  surface  did  not  al- 
low us  ti  very  distant  view  of  the'gromid.  His  politeness,  however, 
induced  him  to  think  me  t6o  much  fatigued  to  accompany  bimin  ' 
search  of  the  dogs  and  the  game;  and  he  therefore  slackened/  his 
pace,, refusing  to  leave  me  belund,  though  I  urged  him  to  do  so|est 
we  should  lo0e  our  expected  prey,  and  assuring  mb  that  the.do^ 
would  take  good  care  of  their  own  business.  ••   '^  V 

We  went  on,  therefore,  Jaboriouriy  enough,  for  two  hours,  over  a'  '^ 
very  rugged  country  and  through  jieep  snow;  when  fihding  that  the^ 
footsteps  of  the  dogs  no  longer  followed  that  of  the  oxen,  he  conclud- 
ed that  tUey  had  got  up  with'the  animals,  and  were  probably  hold- 
^•ing  one  or  both  of  them  at  .bay.    Yfe  soon  found  this  to  be  the  fact,  ^ 
on  turning  the  angle  of  a  hill;  when  the  sight  of  a  fine  ox.  at  bay  be-^ . 
fore  the  three  dt^,  cured  our  fatigue  in  an  instant,  and  we  went  off~^ 
ourselves  at  full  speed  to  thlT  rescue. 

Pob-yet-tah,  howeyen  kf  pt  th6  lead,  and  was  in  the  act  of  dis- 


.      -■■: 

n 

V      - 

■ , 

-  1. 

»i.~      ■ 

■^ 

. 

u 

^:i 


,■♦ 


>i*A 


\ 


* 


20S 


hkooud  voyagb  or  disoovery  , 


1 


chaining  his  second  arrow  when  I  came  up.  We  saw  Jthat  it  had 
struck  on  a  rib,  since  it  fell  out  without  even  diverting  the  attention 
of  the  animal  from  thoidogs,  which  continued  barking  and  dodging 
round  it,  seizing  it  by  the  heels  whenever  they  had  an  opportunity, 
or  when  it  turned  to  escape,  and  then  retreating  as  it  faced  them. 
In  the  mean  time,  it  was  trembling  with  rage,  and  labouring  to  reach 
its  active  assailants,  but  unable  to  touch  them,  experienced  as  they 
were  in  this  service.  *  \ 

It  was  easy  to  see  that  my  companion's  weapons  were  of  little 
value  in  this  warfare,  or  that  the  victo^  would  not  at  least  have 
Seen  gained  under  many  hburs;  as  he  contmued  to  shoot  without  ap- 
parent effect,  fintlBg  his  opport^bitiesfor  an  aim  with  much  difficul- 
ty, and  losing  mu^lime,  afterwards,  in  recoveringthis  arrows.  I  was 
p'ieased,  therefore,  independently  of  the  value  ofthe  expected  game, 
to  find  i|n  opportunity  of  showing  him  the  superiority  of  our  arms, 
and  I  therefore  fired  at  the'animal  with  two  balls,  at  the  ^istance  of 
about  fifteen  yards.  They  took  effect,  and  it  felh  but  riring  again, 
made  a  sudden  dart  afe  us,  standing  close  together  as  we  were.  We 
avoided  the  attack,  by  dodging  behind  a  l^rge  stone  which  was  lucki- 
ly ne^r  us;  on  which,  rushmg  with  all  its  force,  it  struck  its  head  so 
violently,  that  it  fell  to  the  ground  with  such  a  crash  that  the  ha:rd 
ground  around  us  fairly  echoed  to  the  sound.  My  guide,  on  this, 
attemptedlb  «tob  it  with  his  knife;  but  failing  in  this,  he  sought 
shelter  beKa  the  dogs,  which  now  again  came  forward  to  the  at- 
tack. Au^is  time  it  was  bleeding  so  profusely,  that  the  long  hair 
on  its  sides  were  matted  with  blood;  yet  its  rage  ^aivd  strength 
seemed  undiminished,  as  it  continued  to  advance'  and  butt  with  the 
skme  ferocity  a84jefore.    « 

In  the  mean  time,  I  had  re-loaded  jny  gun  behind  ttie  stone,  and 
was  advancing  for  another  shot,  when  the  creature  rAhed  towards 
npeas  before,  to  the  gr#at  alarm  of  Poo-yet-tah,  who  called  tf  me 
to  return 'to  the  same  shelter.  But  I  had  time  for  a  cool  ajm;  and 
it  immediately  fell,  on  the  discharge  of  both  barrels,  but  not  till  it 
was  within  five  yards  of  me.  The  sight  of  his  fallen  enem]^>made 
my  compaion  scream  and  dance  with  joy,  and  on  his  coming  up, 
it  was  dead;  one  baH  having  passed  through  the  heart,  and'  the 
Other  haviiig  shattered  to  pieces  the  shoulder-joint.  He  was  lost* 
in  astonis^ent  at  the  effect  of  the  fire-arms;  first  carefully  exam- 
ining thf^oles  which  the  balls  had  made,  and  pmnting  out  to  me 
that  'Some  of  them  had  passed  quite  through  the  animal.  But  it 
wds  the  state  of  the  broken  shoulder  which  most  surprised  him; 
nor  would  it  be  ^sy  to  forget  his  look  of  horror  and '  amazement, 
when  he  loolEed  up  in  my  face  and  exclaimed  "Now-ek-pokel"  (it  is. 
broken.)  ,.  »  ^ 

We  had  now  been  eighteen  hours  without  any  refreshment,  and  I 
naturally,*  therefore,  expected  that,  my  friend  would  have  lost  no 
time  in  extracting  a  dinner  out  of*the  ox.    I  had  however  done  him 


I 


Dg  again, 
re.  We 
ras  lucki-- 
a  head  so 
the  ha:rd 
,  on  this, 
)e  sought 
9  the  at* 
long  hair  ^ 
strength 
with  the 

tone,  and 
[  towards 
id  tf  me 
aim;  and 
not  till  it 
my 'made 
>ming  up, 
,  and'  the 
was  lost" 
lly  exam- 
ut  to  me 
1.  But  it  , 
iscd  hinfi; 
lazement, 
tel"  (it  is. 


TO  THE  ARCTIC  REOIORS.     • 


207 


injustice:  his  prudence  was  more  powerful  than  his  stomach.  He 
was  content  with  mixing  some  of  the  warm  blood  with  snow,  thus 
dissolving  as  much  as  he  required  to  quench  his  thirst,  and  then  iih- 
mediately  proceeded  to,  skin  the  animal;  knowing  very  weli^  what 
J  might  have  recollected,  that  the.  operation  would  shortly  become 
impossible,  in  cdnseqiience  of  the  severity  of'  the  cold,  .which. would 
soon  freeze  the  whfHe  into  an  impracticable  mass.  For  the  same 
'Reason,  he  divided  the  carcase  into  four  parts;  afterwards  disposing 
of  the  paunch  and  intestines  in  the  same  manner,  their  contents  being 
previously  separated.  I  did  nojt  before  know,. that  they  did  not  eat 
these  as  well  as  the  analogous  matters  of  the  reindeer;  and  could 
only  conjecture,  that  at  this  season  pf  the  year,  the  plants  on  which 
the  musk  ox  feeds  were  disagreeable  to  their  taste.  In  the  reindeei^''' 
the  matters  found  in  their  itomachs  are' considered  a  great  delicacy; 
and  however  our  own  might  revolt  at  a  vegetable  dish  cooked  in  tliw 
manner,  this  f6tma  a  very  useful  and  salutary  ingredient  among  their 
gros^  animal  diet,  since  it  is  scarcely  possible  for  them  to  collect  any 
eatable  vegetables  by  their  own  exertions.       ^  "'  '^ 

As  we  were  unable  to  carry  off  our  prizei  we  were  obliged  to 
build  a  snowhutover  it,  after  which,  setting  up  marks  to  enable  us 
to  find  it^glCin,  we  set  out  on  our  return  to  the  place  where  'we  had 
left  our^mpanions.  In  the  way,  we  discovered  another  ox  about 
a  qutCrter  of  a  mile  off,  utader  the  face  of  a  precipice,  but  were  far  too 
fatigued  to  think  of  pursuing  it.  .The  guide,  however,  assured  me 
that  this  was  of  no  consequence,  since  it  would  remain  there  for' 
some  time,  and  we  might  easily  go  after  it  in  the  morning. 

We  reached  the  hut  that  had  been  built,  at  five  in  the  morning 
of  the  twenty-ninth,  hungry  and  fatigued  enough  to  find  a  yery  serious 
enjoyment  in  a  hot  supper  a^Lrest.  We  had  brought  away  some 
"of  the  beef,  and  found  it  excet^ingly  good,  not  having,  at  thi9  sea- 
son .of  the  year,  the  least  flavoiSR,of  musk.  -In  August,  at  Melville ' 
island,  en  a  former,  occadon,  this,  taste  was  very  oircnsive:  and  it  is 
only  consonant  to  other  experience  ia  many  animals,  to  suppose  that 
this  effect  takes  place  in  the  rutting  season.  My  observations  here, 
made  the  latitude  70°  35'  49",  and  the  longitude  0°  38'  33"  west  of 
.  the  ship.  • 

We  had  not  been  asleep  taore  than  four  or  five  hours,  "when  we 
were  awoke  by  the  shouts  of  Poo-yet-tah  and  the  barking-  of  the 
dogs  in  full  cry.  On  inquirii^  of  th«  bov>  he  informed  me  that  our 
guide  and  huntsman  had  crept  out  of  the  hut  silently,  about  an  hour 
before,  and  was  gone  in  pursuit  of  the  ox  which  we  had  seen  on  the 
preceding  day.  In  a  short  time  he  returned,  and  told  us  that  he  had  . 
Totind  the  animal  grazing  on  the  top  of  the  hill,  that  he  had  ad- 
vanced Upon  it  by  the  only  accessible  road,  keeping  himself  in  the 
middle  of  his  dogs,  and  that  he  had  done  this  with  so  much  rapidity, 
that  the  creature  finding  no  other  mode  of  escape,  had  tiirown  itseljf 
,  ever  the  precipice.     '     'v  '  ;    V^       *      ' 


'  r 


T 


/^ 


.'*,r 


'^^,,.,if4ir" 


'4 


# 


208 


SECOND  VOTAOB  OF  DISCOVBQV 


On  going  to  the  spot,  we  accordingly  found  the  itcarcase  in  the 
ttlace  which  he  had  mentioned,  exceedingly  mangled  by  the  fall, 
which  had  exceeded  thirty  feet,  while  the  place  which  it  had  struck 
was  an  irregular  block  of  granite.  As  far  as  use  was  concerned,  it 
was  however  no  worse  than  if  it  had  been  uninjured;  and  the  same 
operations  were  therefore  repeated:  the  whole  day  being  afterwards 
occupied  in  this  work,  and  in  bringigg^  the  meat  to  our  but. 

This,  hdwev^r,  left  me  leisure  for  my  observations;  and  the  morn- 
ing proving  fine,  I  was  successful  in  makinig  them.  Among  other 
thiflgs,  I  thus  ascertained  that  our  present  place  wai  about  forty 
miles  from  the  shipr,  in  a  direction  north  19°  west.  In  the  afternoon, 
there  arose  a  strong  breeze  with  drifting  snow;  so  that  we  were  glad 
to  have  recourse  to  the  shelter  of  6ur  hut,  and  thus  also  made  our 
dinner  at  a  much  earlier  hour  thanVuak  getting  into^our  fur  bags 
shortly  after,  that  we  might  en?ure  a  good  night's  rest.  ^ 

aoth.  It  blew  so  hard  a  gale  from  the  north  during  the  whole  day, 
that  we  were  unable  to  leave  the  hut;  which  gave  us  an  opportunitv 
of  some  conversation  with  our  guides  and  companions,  and  which! 
made  use  of  in  endeavouring  to  extract  from  them  a  fuller  history  of 
the  event  which  had  led  to  our  dissentibns,  and  of  theil*  fe^ings  and 
proceedings  in  consequence.  —     ^  ^ 

Poo-yet-tah  himself  was  equally  anxious  to  explain:  so  that  it  was 
scarcely  necessary  for  me  to  name  the  subject.  Having  commenced, 
he  proceeded  in  his  tale  with  so  much  rapidity  and  vehemence,  that 
it  at  first  seemed  to  me  as  if  he  had  re-excited  his  anger  on  this  sub- 
ject, and  that  we  were  now  likely  to  renew  a  quarrel  which  had 
been  suspended,  not  settled.  I  soon  found,  however,  that  all  this  en- 
ergy was  the  result  of  bis  anxiety  to  convince  me  that  bis  friends 
were  not  in  reality  t«r  Ulame,  that  thef  had  acted'under  what  they 
believed  a  conviction  of  our  treachdfy,  or  wicked  interference,  and 
that  we  ought  now  to  be  perfectlyTeConciIed,since  we  had  exculf^ted 
ourselves  to  their  satisfaction.  The  peacemaker  was  even  the  Jd^re 
praiseworthy,  that  I  mistook  the  energy  of  his  eloquence  on  the  am^fc- 
ble  side,  for  a  renewal  of  hostilities  and  a  declaration  of  war.       | ,, 

In  spite,  too,  of  their  numbers  on  that  occasion,  and  of  their  evi- 
dent intention  to  attack,  they  were  impressed  with  a  strong'feeling 
of  our  superiority;  an  impression  which  we  were,  all,  naturally,  mo^ 
desirous  of  cultivating;  since  it  was  not  less  a  ground  of  respect,  as 
it  must  ever  be  among  rude  nations,  than  a  tower  of  defence  to  us 
un%r  the  numerical  difierencc  between  ourselves  and  this  collected 
nati^.  Under  this  conviction,  he  thanked  me  frequently  fdr  not 
killing  his  father,  6i  breiikit^  bis  shoulder  as  I  had  done  that  of  the 
musk  ox;  while  he  still.seemed  to  fear,  that  when  I  returned  to  the 
shipl  should  do  him  some  harm.  I  endeavoured,  of  course,  to  convmce 
him  that  nothing  of  this  kind  could  ever  happen,  that  we  were  all 
attached  to  his  people,  and  desired  nothing  so  much  as  to  continue 
friends;  and  with  these  assurances  he  seemed  satisfied. 


i 

/; 

—        % 

• 

.^^  «^*"S«*«-»-f 


,      *.      .        .      rt.„ 


:.m' 


e  in  the 
tlie  fall* 
id  struck 
erned,  it 
the  same 
Iterwards 

lie  morn- 
ing other 
out  forty 
i(temoon, 
vere  glad 
nade  our 
■  fur  bags 

hole  day, 
portunitT 
1  which  1 
history  of 
^ngs  and 

latit  was 
nmenced, 
ence,  that 
1  this  sub- 
hich  had 
ill  this  en^ 
is  friends 
rhat  they 
ence,  ana 
Kcul^ted 
1  the  lii^re 
the  an^Bf!^ 
rar.  j'/- 
their  evi. 
Dg'feeling 
tUly,  mo^^ 
espect,  as 
ace  to  us 
s  collected 

Lfdr  not 
t  of  the 
aed  to  the 
[>  convince 
i  were  all 
)  continue 


mi^r 


Ta  THK   ARCTIC    BEOIOIfS. 


809 


If  the  remainder  of  our  conversation  was  not  highly  interesting, 
;\  it  will  at  least  serve  to  convey  some  ideas  respecting  uie  usages  of 

these  people.  L  was  at  first  surprised  to  hear  my  guide  Poo-yet-tah 
call  Pow-weet-yah  his  father;  since,  to  my  eye,  there  were  not  n^any 
years  of  difTercnce  in  age.  On  asking  tho^  reason,  I  was  informed 
that  he  was  only  the  Step-father,  and  that  he  was  even  the  second 
in  this  relation  which  Eoo-yet-tah  had  possessed;  while  both  of  them 
were  such  during  the  lifetime  of  his  own  father,  who  hkd  taken 
another  wife  and  left  his  own  to  the  first  of  these  two,  It  wai^' 
however,  an  amicable  separation,  The' man  had  desired  to  migrate 
to  the  westward,  and  the  wife,  on  the  contrary,  preferred  staying 
among  her  own  rplations;  they  therefore  separated,  a  short  time  after  ^ 
his  biiith,  and  the  w^man  then  married  a  man  called  Arg-loo-gah, 
by  whom  she  had  four  more  sons.  Thjs  husband  was  drowned; 
leaving  his  widow  a  large  fortune  in  the  shape  of  these  five  sons, 
who  are  here  considered  a  valuable  estate,  since  the  maintenance  of 
the  parents  in  old  age  devolves  on  them.  Thus  she  easily  procured 
another  husband,  Pow-weet-yah,  the  brother  of  her  firtt  one;  but  by 
this  marriage  there  were  no  children.  To  replace  this  want,  they 
adopted  two  grandsons  as  such;  and  the  boy  who  had  been  killed 
was  the  eldest  of  those.  The  original  husband,  Ka-na-yoke's  true 
father,  had  also  procured  a  s6n  by  adoption,  among  me  tribe  at 
'  Oo-geoo^Iik,  to  which  he  had  gone,  and  he  was  now  livuig  in  a 
small  island,  called  0-wut-ta,  three  days' journey  to  the  westward - 
of  Nei5fjrel-la  i 

The  terms  'husband  and  wife  are  words  of  usage;  the  Ideas  are 
simple,  and  excite  no  doubts;  the  language  is  smooth,  and  belongs 
•  to  good  breeding  and  good-  morals:  .and  the  term  marriage  is  one 
which  equally  excites  neither  reflection  nOr  commentary.  It  has 
been  the  custom,  too,  however  it  began,  to  priiise  the  temper,  con- 
duct, and  morals  of  these  tribes;  but  some  readers  may  perhaps 
question  the  conjugal  system  and  usages  of  this  people,  should  they 
take  the  troidble  to  think  on  the  subject;  as  they  may  also  perhaps 
suggest  that  concubinage,  and  not  of  a  remarkably  strict  nature,  is 
a  more  fitting  term  than  marriage,  for  the  species  of  contract  under 
_    which  the  paijj^s  in  question  are  united. 

Th^y  might  even  be  the  moi;e  inclined  to  think  so,  had  they  heard 
the  further  anecdotes^  which  Poo-yet-tah  related  to  me  on  this  sub- 
ject; of  which  it  must,  however,  suffice  to  notice  one,  aS  a  sort  of 
general  result  Among  the  Esquimaux  of  Igloolik  whom  we  had  - 
lormerly  visited,  it  was  not  uncommon  for  a  man  to  have  two  wives; 
a  practice  that  excites  no  surprise,  wide  spread  as  polygamy  is, 
and  has  been  from  all  time.  But  my  friefad  nere  informed  me  that 
hfe  and  his  half  brother  had  but  one  wife  between  them,  as,  if  t 
^ghtly  also  understood,  this  was  held  a  justifiable  system,  and,  if  not 
very  common,  merely  such  because  of  a  general  numerical  equality 
between  the  sexes.    Of  this  custom  we  bad  found  no  instance  at 


% 


\ 


~1SE1 


&• 


*«(«*«?*•<? 


■%.S*: 


1,4.     •ty*?*^"*<3 


^^  ■ 


■  '^K 


•\- 


4 


aio 


SKCOHD  VOTAOB  OF  BMCOVBIY 


Igloolik:  and  I  know  not  that  it  is  related  by  travellew  of  any  but 
certain  tribes  in  India.  Others  must  consider  for  themselves,  of  the 
propriety  or  delicacy  of  such  a  connexion  as  that  of  two  brothers 
with  a  single  wife,  since  I  do  not  set  up  for  the  moral  commentator 
on  a  peopfe,  respecting  whom  every  one  is  now  nearly  as  well  m- 
formed  as  myself;  so  much  has  been  written  rcspectmg  them -by  us, 
the  recent  northern  navigatojra,  and  by  many  inpre,  foreigners  as 

well  as  English.  "     y  .     s-^ijk.   j-      *:      Je 

As  it  was  my  intention  to  make  an  excursion  fli  «fej=direct!on  M 
Oo-geoo-lik  after  returning  frqm  my  present  journey,  I  procured 
from  my  informant  a  list  of  the  names  of  all  those  whom  I  was 
likely  to  meet,  and  was  charged  at  the  same  time  with  several  mesi. 
sages  to  them.  These  I  wrote  down,  as  the  best  letters  of  introduce  - 
tion  that  I  could  have  received:  and,  if  aught  could  now  have  beeii 
wanting,  the  entire  confidence  bfetween  us  was  thus  perfectly  estab' 

lished.  ,        ,      '         -#  .. 

Thus  this  dreary  day  was  shortened;  and  a  truly  dreary  on®  « 
was.  The  wind  without,  howled  round  our  walls  of  snow,  and  the 
drift  which  it -brought  sotmded  against  them  with  a  hissing  noise, 
Which  I  waff  glad  to  forget  in  the  talk  that  rendered  it  for  a  tmie 
inaudible.  If  our  house  was  but  four  feet  high,  so  that  it  kept  08 
constantly  in  a  sitting  posture,  it  was  nevertheless  warm,  and,  hp^ 
^contrast,  comfortable;  a  far  better  one  has  not  often  been  so  accep* 
table,  and  has  rarely  indeed^affofded  such  a  sense  of  thankful  secunty 
and  enjoyment.  '  .       ..  •     ' 

The  talk  of  our  fjiejids  did  not,  however,  prevent  them  from  "jng 
their  jaws  in  a  very  different  manner,  During  the  whole  day  Oiey 
were  employed  in  removing^the  meat  fi-om  the  upper  half  of  the  ox; 
cutting  it  off  in  V)ng  narrow  slips,  Which,  in  the  usual  manner,  they 
crammed  into  their  mouths  a3  far  as  they  could  push  it  in;  J^n  cut- 
ting the  morsel  from  thq  end  of  their  noses  by  the  means  6f  tiieur 
sharp  knives,  they  bolted  the  mouthfuls  as  a  hungry  dog  would  have 
done.  Thus  passing  the  slice  from  one  to  the  otfier,  alternately,  Uiey 
contrived  at  length  to  swallow  all  the  meat  from  the  neck,  backbone, 
and  ribs,  of  one  side  of  the  ox;  suspending  their  motions,  howeveJ^ 
every  now  and  then,  to  complain  that  they  could  eat  no  ttiore,  ai^ 
lying  back  on  their  beds,  but  still  retaining  their  knives  in  one  hand, 
with  the  unfinished  morsel  in  the  other,  and  again  beginning  wHh  as 
much  energy  as  before,  as  soon  as  they  felt  it  possible  to  get  down 

another  lump.  ^„  , .    r  n       j 

Disgusting  brutes!  the  very  hysena  would  have  Jilled  its  belly  and 
gone  to  sleep;  nothing  but  absolute  incapacity  to  push  their  foodte- 
yond  the  top  of  tiie  fliroat,  could  check  the  gormandizing  of  these 
specimens  of  reason  and  humanity.  ^ 

By  the  time  that  tiiey  seemed  really  incapable  of  devounng  any 
more,  our  own  soup  was  ready,  and  I  therefore  offere*l;tJhem  to  i»r^ 
take.   Out  of  politeness,  Poo-yet-tahtoofc  two  or  three  spoogfub,  and 


^^ 


^ 


OrO  THB    ABCTIC   MJEOIONS. 


K    ail 


any  but 
s,  of  the 
brother* 
nentator 
well'  in- 
n4)y  us, 
jners  as/ 

iction  dr 
jrocured 
I  is  was 
rat  mes- 
ntroduc^- 
ive  beeii 
ly  estab^ 

y  one  it 
and  the 
ng  noise, 
r  a  time 
kept  08 
and,  h0\ 
lo  accep* 
[  seouri^ 

amusing 
day  diey 
f  tne  ox; 
ner,they 
tiben  cut- 
jdf  their 
>uldhave 
ely,  they 
lackbone, 
however, 
nore,  and 
>ne  hand» 
g  with  as 
get  down 

belly  and 
•  food  1»- 
;  of  these 

iring  any 
tn  topar- 
9fuli,aiid 


then  confessed  that  lie  could  swidlow  no  more.  Placing  my  hand 
on  his  stomach,  I  was  perfectly  afltonishod  at  the  distension  itT  had 
undergone,  and  which,  without  such  an  examination,  I  could  not 
have  believed  it  possible  for  any  human  creature  to  bear;  as,  had  I 
not  known  their  habits,  I  should  have  expected  that,  nothing  but 
death  could  b^  the  consequence.  ^ 

May  IsL  This  enormous  stuffing  caused  our  guides  to  pass  bu^  A' 
restless  night:  if  they  had  jpossessed  a  t^m  for  the  nightmare,  we 
should  probably  have  heard  of  it  in  the  morning.  In  the  mean  time 
the  gale  moderated;  so  that,  when  we  rose  at  five  o'clock  on  the 
next  da]*,  the  weather  was  such  as  to  allow,-of  our  proceeding; 
though  sull  hazy  and  someyfjhjj^  threatening,  as  the  breeze  was  from" 
the  northward,  and  ^^^  ^^MKEJP^  by  some  drift     ___  _l_ 

Our  sledge  was  soon  ldH||^||^^  guides  had  not  so  soon  re-' 
covered  from  the  eff^cts^^^^^uaer,  so  that  it  was  pest  seven 
otlock  before  we  could  S^Ht^^f^Qve.-  ^But  when  ready.  Poo- 


'H 


yet-tah  said,  on  my  expresSMn^H^pKvillingin^ss  to  lose  another  day, 
that  as  we  should -be  obVg<fll|oHravel  over  high  hills,  where  the 
sledges  could  not  go,  we  musHeave  all  our  baggage  at  the  hut,  and    , 
that  we  might  then  proceed  to  Aw-wuk-too-teu*  and  return  to  sleep. 

We  ticcordingly  .set  out  at  half>past  seven-,  taking  with  us  our 
arms  and  three  of  th®  dogs,  in  case  of  our'  falling  in  with  any  more 
of  the  musk  oxen,  alnd  leaving  Mr.  Abemethy  and  the  boy  in  charge 
of  the  baggage.  Tralvelling  over  a  very  rugged  country  covered 
with  deep  snow,  during  two  hours,  we  at  length  descended  on.  the 
lake  y^lmch  they  eall  i^w-wuk-too-teak,  and  A^fecljwill  be  found  in 
the  chart.  /  .  ^*^ 

This  piece'of  water  extends,  according  to  its  lon^st  dimensions,  „ ' 
from  north-east  by  east  to  south-west  bv  west,  and,  m  this  directioni, 
appeared  about  four  miles  in  len^h.  In  shape,  it  is  very  irregul'af, 
as  it  is  bolinded  by  five  distinct  hills,  separated  from  each  other  by 
an  equal  number  of  ravines,  which,  during  the  thaw,  are  w^ter-. 
courses,  supplying  the  lake.  Where  it  emptiesitself,  the  issuing 
stream  is  broad,  and  appeared  to  be  sl^allow;  ]^|g|||  source  seemed 
to  be  a  rapid  one,  and  its  termination  was  in  t^l^  to  the  tiorth- 
ward.  '  '  ' ' 

The  luunes  of  ihese  hills  as  given  by  the  guide  are  as  follow,  dii" 
^npiiwhirtg  thenl  by  thmr  true  bearings,^  from  the  centre  of  the  lake: 
natnelyTtnat  to  the  west  is  called  Pood-le-ra-nuk,  to  the  north-west" 
Il-l^-nuk,  to  the  north-east  Acrcood'le-ruk-tUk,  to  the  west-sqjith- 
west  Tak-ke-noo-ra-lig,  and  to  the  south  Il-low-na-lig.  Poo-yet-tah 
fbrther  informed  me  that  the  lake  contained  three  diflerent  kinds 
of  fish,  which  ijemain  in  it  throughout  the  winter,  that  it  was  of 
great  depth,  and  that  in  the  smaller  lake  to  the  eastward,  called , 
Ow'Weet-te-week,  where  the  pq^y  that  first  saw  our  ship  in  the 
September  of  1829,  had  been  encamped,  there  was  also  abundance 
of  fish  of  a  large  si2se.  •  ^ 


y 


r     • 


;!il 


h 


2ir 


SECOND   VOTAOE    Or   DISCOTEBT 


n ' 


•*■    M''':, 


I 


/ 


^Leaving  the  water^side,  we  how  ascended  the  high  hill  on  the 
north-east  side,  called  Ac-cood-le-ruk-tuk;  an8,  on  reaching  its  sum- 
niit,  which  we  had  surmounted  soon  after  ten  o'clock,  Ijcould  see 
the  high  rugged  ice  extending  from  the  north!-,^orth-west-to  tlfe  north- 
east by  ea^t.  The  hazy  state  of  the  weathet,  however,  linftited  our 
view  to  a  distance  of  four  or  five  miles,  so  th^  it  was  impossible  to 
ascertain  the  depth  of  an  inlet,  of  which  the 'entrance  seented\to  be 

,  foHned  by  the  separation  of  the  spot  on  which  we  stSodV  from  a 
romarkable  cape  that  we  had  named  the  Old  Man  of  H6y,  wha»  oii 
our  wuy  to  the  southward  during  the  preceding  autumn,  and  ;^hich 
I  had  n<5' difliculty  in  recognising. 

This  was  the  place  where  I  had  expected,  if  any  where,  to  find 
the  way  open  to  the  western  Sfeifti  since  it  was  that  wWeh^e  natives 
had  spoken  of  to  us  on  several  occasions^  or  thus,  at  least,  we 
imagined,  as  it  was  not  very  easy  to  come  to  a  right  understanding 
on  this  subject  Th^e  man, called  Ib-lu-shee  had  indeed  assured  us 
that  the  opening  at. this  place  was  nothing  but  the  mouth  of  a  large 
bay,  and  that  we  must  travel  many  days  to  the  northward  before  we 
coidd  find  a  passage  to  the  westward;  an  assertion  which  made  me 
.suppose,  as  I  have  already  observed,  that  he  could  mean  nothing  but 
Barrow's  strait  But  as  we  hgd  not  examined  the  present  inlet,  since  ^ 
it  was  filled  with  fixed  ice  when  we  had  passed  in  the  preceding  year, 
I  thought  it  indispensable  to  t^  the  present  opportunity  of  doing 
this,  that  we  might  at  least  remove  the  natural  uncertainty  which  we 
felt  respecting  it 

When,  ho'wfcver,  I  came  to  examine  the  nature  of  the  ice  which 
now  lay  between  us  and  the  inlet  in  question,  as  well  as  the  great 
distance  that'  it  would  be  necessary  to  travel  for  that  purpose,  I 
found  it  impossible  to  undertake  such  a  work  at  present  ^Poo-yet- 
tah  indeed  became  very  anxious  that  we  should  return,  as  he  saw 
that  the  north  wind,  with  its  driving  snow,  was  rapidly  increasing; 
but,  as  the  haze  seemed  to  be  partially  clearing  away,  I  proposed 

.  to  him  to  descend  to  the  beach,  as  I  might  hope  thus  to  get  a^  better 
view.  ,  <^  *     ^ 

This,  however,  h^  absolutely  refused:  but,  as  I  fplt  confident  ftiat 
I  could  find  my  way  without  him,  I  went  off,  and  teft  him  to  foUoW 
his  own  inclination^'  In  about  an  hour  and  a  half  I  reached  the 
beach  in  question,  which  was  formed  of  loose  fragments  of  lime-stone, 
and  found  the  tide  out:  while,  as  far  as  I  could  see,  the  ice  consisted 
entirely  of  hummocky  masses  which  had  been  closely  Backed  agaiAst 
the  shore  at  the  commencement  of  the  winter. 

I  had  not  gained  much  by  my  attempt  to  investigate  this  piece  of 
ground;  for  the  falling  snow,  and  the  thick  haze  oy  which  it  was 
accompanied,  obscured  every  thing  in  such  a  manner,  that  I  could 
never  see  beyond  two  miles,  if  I  even  saw  so  far.  The  weather  also 
became  more  qnpromising,  instead  of  improving;  so  that  I,4«soIved 


/\ 


TO  THE    ARCTIC    BEGIONS. 


213' 


to  give  up  all  further  pursuit  of  this  object,  and  turped  my  face  to 
return  to  the  hut  where  I  had  left  my  companions.         ' 

On  this,  I  immediately  heard  the  voice  of  Poo-yet-tah  hallooing 
from  behind  a  -stone,  close  to  me,  and  was  not  a  little  surprised  to 
see  him,  whe|i  I  expected  that  he  had  been  safely  lodged  in  the  hut 
Ji)y  thisv  time.  I  foundv  that  ho  vhad  followed  me  slily,  to  watch  my 
proceedings;  being  desirous  to  know  what  coulU  be  the  object  of  so 
long  a  journey  from  the  ship  as  that  which  I  had  thus  undertaken, 
and  probably  also  conceiving  that  I  had  here  sOme  cJtfect  of  profit 
in  view,  in  the  finding  of  garho  or  fish,  in  which  he  wlis  desirous  of 
partaking.  I  had  great  trouble  in  trying  to  persuade  him  that  Lhad 
no  other,  pursuit  than  that  of  seeing  this  place  among  others,' yet  did 
not  finally  succeed  in  convincing  him:  since,  however,  possessing  that 
k^oivledge  of  geography  which  is  so  general  among  these  people, 
their  pursuits  and  acquisitions  (tf .  this  nature  are  all  directed  to  the 
immediate  and  important  end  <jf  procuring  food. 
-  On  fjurther  conversation,  he  told  me  that  he  shoidd  be  at  Ow-weet- 
te-week  in  tijb  summer,  together  with  his  brothers,  for  the  purpose 
of  hunting  or  fishing,  and  that  they  would  bring  us-salmon  and  veni- 
son. Wishing  to  know  the  situation  of  this  jpace,  that  I  might  be 
able  to  recognise  it  again  from  the  ship,  he  agreed,  and  we  set  forth 
together. 

After  two  hours'  travelling  toward  the  south-east,  we  crossed  th6 
lake  of  Ow-weet-te-week  to  a  hill  on  its  eastern  shore;  and  on  ascend- 
ing it,  he  showed  me  the  spot  where  his  tent  had  been  erected  in  the 
preceding  summer  when  we  passed  by,  and  where  he  was  to  be  in 
the  impending  one.  He  also  pointed  out  to  me  some  stores  of  food 
which  his  companions  had  abandoned  on  leaving  this  place;  and, 
opening  one  of  nis  own,  produced  sonie  pieces  of  ironstone  which  he 
had  wrapped  up  in  a^)iece  of  mvan's  skin;  reminding  me  of  what  I 
had  forgotten,  that  he  had  promised  me  some  on  ojir  arrival  at  Ow- 
weetTte-week.  He  said  that  one  of  his  brothers  had  found  it,  in  the 
preceding  summer,  on  the  chores  of  an  islet  called  Toot-ky-yak, 
which  was  a  day's  journey  to  the  north-west,  and  that  it  had  been 
taken  from  beneath  the  water,  by  the  washing  of  which  it  was  pro- 
bably rendered  more  obvious  to  their  inexperienced  eyes.  This  sub- 
stance constitutes  their  only  article  of  commerce,  and  they  exchange 
what  they  have  obtained,  ey*ry  three  or  four  years,  with  the  natives 
of  Oo-geoo-lik;  getting  drift  wOod  in  re,tuni,  and,  in  a.  similar  way, 
purchasing  the  potstone  of  which  thdir  kettles  are  made,  from  the 
mhabitants  of  Repulse  bay.  , 

Poo-yet-tah  now  became  anxious  to  return  to  the  hut ;  but  as  we 
pa'ssed  the  foot  of  the  hill  whepce  I  obtained  the  first  view  of  the 
sea,  I  prevailed  on^im  to  accompany  me  to  the  top.  The  weather 
indeed  had  become  even  more  unfavourable  than  before,  but  I  could 
not  bear  to  abandon  a  spot  which  seemed  to  contain  the  only 
chance  of  a  passage  by  wnicK  our  ship  might  reach  that  western 


■■■■  • 


'« 


..i_ 


1^-^^ 


V- 


.^. 


S14 


SECDND  VQTAOB  09  DI8C0V«|li;, 


'% 


sea  which  I  had  now  seea    My  labour  was  however  lost    The 
snow  began  to  fall  thicker,  nothing  could  be  s^n,  and  we  were 

flad  to  descend  again  in  aU  haste,  and  make  our  way  back  to  the 

In  our  progress  thither,  we  put  up  a  pack  of  sw  grouse,  and  1 
had  the  good  fortune  to  bring  down  one  with  each  barrel.  These 
were  the  first  objects  th^  Poo-yet-tah  had  seen  shot  on  the  wing, 
and  his  surprise  was  even  greater  than  ^t  had  been  at  the  killing  of 
the  musk  oj.  Shortly  after,  they  rose  again  at  half  a  mile's  distance, 
when  he  urged  me  to  fire  once  tiiore,  as  he  afterwards  wished  me 
6)  follow  them  to  the  spot  where  they  had  alighted  after  this  flight 
But  I  did  not  choose  to  risk  my  reputation,  or  rather  that  of  the 
gun,  which  it  was  important  to  preserve:  while  we  had  also  now 
more  game  than  we  could  use,  or  transport  to  the  ship.      \         r 

We  therefore  pursued  our  journey,  and  arrived  at  the  hut  at  seven 
in  the  evening;  bemg  just  in  time  to  save  ourselves  from  the  com- 
mencement of  one  of  the  most  stormy  nights  we  had  ever  experi- 
enced. The  wind  blew  during  the  whole  of  it  in  the  most  violent 
gusts  that  can  be  imagined;  descending  from  the  hills  around  with 
such  squalls  of  driving  snow,  that  they  threatened  as  much  to  de- 
moUsh  our  little  structure  as  to  overwhelm  and  bury  us  in  a  hill  of ' 
their  X)vm  making.  This  indeed  they  nearly  did  before  the  gale 
moderated :  such  was  the  accumulation  of  snow  that  was  blown 
up  into  deep  ridges  around  and  above  our  hut  which  was,  however, 
too  strong  and  solid  to  give  way  to  the  forii^^  the  wind.  We 
were  afterwards  surprised  to  find  how  v^iy  commd  this  storm  was, 
.since  there  was  nothing  more  than  a  moderate  breeze  atHhe  ship, 
though  only  forty  miles  distant  . «  ' 

Having  been  well  recruited  by  a  night's  rest,  I  had  hopes  of 
inducing  Poo-yet-tah  to  make  another  excursion  to  the  sea;  but 
we  had  first,  to  encounter  the  task  of  digging  ourselves  out  of  the 
snow.  This  occupied  four  hours,.since  it  had  attained  a  depth  of 
six  feet  above  us ;  and  when  we  were  at  last  fireed,  we  found  it  still 
blowing  hard,  and  the  air  filled  with  haze,  and  with  snow  drift  from 
the  surrounding  hills.  The  appearance  of  the  weather  was  certmnly 
most  unfaiwurable  to  this  or  any  other  travelling;  and  the  guides 
were  very  cfesirous  to  remain  at  peace  in  the  hut  To  this  I  should 
have  agreed,  if  I  could  have  prevailed  on  them  to  have' gone  once 
more  with  me  to  Aw-wuk-too-teak ;  but  this  was  absolutefy  refused, 
so  that  I  was  compelled  to  abandon  this  project  for  the  present 

I  now  reflected  on  the  uncertainty  of  the  weather  at  this  season 
erf"  the  year,  and  being  also  aware  that  our  absence  from  the  ship 
had  been  prolonged  beyond  the  time  which  had  been  anticipated,  I 
became  fearful  lest  considerable  anxiety  should  be  felt  by  Captain 
Ross  on  our  account  and  the  more  so  from  the  circumstances  of 
doubtful  friendship  with  the  natives  under  which  we  had  departed. 
It  was  possible,  also,  that  some  inconvenience  might  occur  in  oonse- 


.,-■;-.      ^4.  -  v  it 


v.. 


■%  ■  \^ 


f'p 


THB  ASOTIO  BBOIONS. 


215 


•'*R! 


ouence  of  our  abseiSi;  more  especially,  should  that  induce  Captain  * . 
Ross  to  send  out  an  expCMJiition  in  search  of  us. 

Coupling  these  reflections,  t1ieref<we,  with  the  fact  that  it  would 
{eqvare  several  days  to  examine  the/desired  inlet  in  a  satisfactory 
manner^and  that  these  probable  inconveniences  would  be  materially 
increased  in  consequence^  I  at  length  resolved  to  return  ta  the  ship, 
and  to'take  some  better  opportunity  of  completing  an  ^lamination 
too  important  to  be  slurred  over  as  it  mi;ist  h^e  been  under  such 
circums^nces  as  the  exiling  ones.  Knowing'^its  exact  position,  I 
could  also  now  revisit  it  without  difficulty,  and,  should  that  be  • 
necessary,  without  a  guides  so  that  although  I  had  not  attained  the 
object  in  view,  I  had  saved  future  time  by  having  thus  pioneered  the 


way. 


We  therefore  began  oi^  journey  at  ei^ht  in  the  monung ;  the 
sledges  being  heavily  ladeti,  andibe  travelbn|^,  in  consequence, both 
diffioub  and  laborious:  Often,  mdeed,  where  the  ground  was  espe- 
ciaUybad,  we  were  obli«d  to  throw  off  a  part  of  our  load,  and 
then,  after  advancin^Wh  the  remainder,  return  to  bring  it  up; 
tl^n  proceeding  as  best  we  could,  though  of  course  with  no  great 
speed. 

About  noon  we  saw  tlKt  Poo-yet-tah  was  separating  from  our 
own  party,  and  was  leading  hi^  sledge  on  to  the  left  shore  of  the 
lake,  we  therefore  followed  j-and,  on  coming  up  to  him,  found  his 
inducement  to  have  been  the  tntcks  of  some  musk  oxen  which  he 
had  seen,  and  was  now  tracing.  He  expressed  a  strong  desir^  to 
Md  soipe  more,  and  wished  that  I  would  halt  here  for  that  purpose; 
a.  very  natural  wish  on  his'part,  and  one  that  I  would  gladly  have 
complied  with,  not  only  on  his  account,  but  for  the  sake  of  ourselves 
and  our  crew  on  board,  had  thefte  b^n  any  use  in  making  such  an 
acquisition.  But  we  had  aU^ady  more  meat  than  we  should  pro- 
bably be  able  to  carry  to  the  ship,  and  the  state  of  the  ground  was- 
as  yet  such  that  we  could  not  contrive  to  bury  it  so  as' to  protect  it 
from  the  wolves  and  gluttons.  It  was  ^refore  to  kill^thb  poor 
animal  for  no  end,  or  rather  perhaps  to  ra|iret  that  we  were  in  pos- 
session of  a  valuable  Supply  of  fresh  beef  for  our  people,  which  we 
shoiiild  be  compelled  to  abandon«to  the  beasts  of  prey  i#hose  tracks 
were  every  where  visibte.  §• 

I  therefore  refused  to  stop  here,  and  tried  to  persuade  them  to  go 
on;  but  in  vaip.  .Turning  a  deaf  ear  to  my  representanpns,  Poo- 
yet-tah  immediately  1?egan  to  build  a  hut,  joying  that  we  must 
sleep  in  it  this  night  He  evidently  believea  that  we  were  unable 
to  proceed  without  his  guidance,  and  that  we  could  «ot,  by  our- 
selves, find  the  hut  in  which  we  had  slept  on  the  night  of  the 
twenty-seventh,  which  was  the'place  that  we  had'proposeq  to  reach 
when  we  had  set  out  in  the  morning.  I  was,  mdeed,  somewhat 
doubtful  of  that  matter  myself;  but  Irather  than  submit  to  the  k>SB 
of  another  day,  I  determined  to  make  the  attempt,  especially  as  the 

(  '■'"..  ,  ^      ^,<  . 


1-- 


r 

r.'        • 


9    •,> 


\- 


*  |;»»*"^->.» 


t 

• 


216 


^ECOVD  VOTAOE.  07  IJISCO' 


more 


■favoi^ 


two , 


.^.. 


R* 


* 


weather  began  to  improve,  and  promised  to 
Ble  every  hour.  ^    ,     .  , 

It  was,  nevertheless,  to  the  consideraiB^surprise  bf  our 
guides  when  we  departed  without  them;  apd  as  we  occasifnally 
turned,  to  see  whether  they  migl^t  not  charige  their  tninds,^  vj  saw 
them  abandon  their  work  several  times,  „for  the.  apparent  tiprpose 
of  watching  the  route  which  we  were  taking,  and  the  prc^*s  that 
we  made.  The  former  was  a  subject  <5f  some  hesitatioil^nd  tfie 
latter  far  from  rapid;  since  the  recent  gales  had  compleply  ob]li^ 
terated  ow  forniier  tcacks,  and  the  fall  o^snow  had  so  altered  the 
featu^s  of  the  country  in  sqme  parts,  while  other^.^ad  been  bared 
and  rendered  black  by  the  storm,  th^t  I  contmued  ip  4^at  uncer- 
tainty about  the  road,  till, we  arrived  at  the  place  called  Nap-pur- 
re-i^-ta-lig.  Here  I  immediately  recpgnised  the  peculiar  form  of 
th^  lake,  and  thus  founA  that  we  had  not  Mterially  deviated  from 
our  intended  direction.     *      i>      -  •  '     .• 

If  our  pr(^ress  was  small  in  prdportion  to  the  time  and  exer- 
tion we  .had  spent  m  rea,ching  this  place,  so  were  we  exceedipgly 
fejl^gued,'  and  suffering  extremely  from  thirst  I  was  therefore  obliged 
to  unload  the  sledge  in  the  middle  of  the  lake,  for  the  purpose  of 
getting  at  the  spirit  lamp,  that  we  might  melt  some  snow  for  drink- 
mg ;  whjch  having  done,  we  were  soon  refreshed^  and  fit  to  continue 
ourjouiiey. 

It  must  appear  strange  to  redders  ignorant  of  these  countries,  to 
hear  that  the  people  suffer  more  firom  thirst,  when  travelling,  than 
from  all  the  other  inconveniences  united.  By  us,  at  home,  where  • 
the  snow  cah  never  be  very  coU,  where  it  can  therefore  be  easily 
melted  by  tiie  ordinary  heat  of  the  body,  and  where  it  can  even  bie 
eaten  as  a  substitute  for  water,  the  very  different  temperature  of 
tfie  same  substance  in  that  country  is  qasily  overlooked,  as  many 
persons  are  even  ignorant  of  this  fact  No  great  inconvenience  can 
occur  as  to  this  matter,  where  its  heat  is  rarely  much  below  the 
freezm^  point,  and  scarcely  ever  falls  as  low  as  twenty  degrees.  It 
is  a  very  different  thmg,  when  perhaps  the  highest  tempe,rature  of 
the  snow  during  the  winter  months,  is  at  zero,  and  when  it  often 
falls  to  minus  fifty  or  more,  or  to  eighty  de^ees  below  the  point  at 
which  we  should  attempt  to  thaw  or  to  eat  H^  in  England.  Were  it 
not  80  bad  a  conductor  as  it  is,  we  could>  in  this  country,  no  more 
take  it  into  the  mouth,  or  hold  it  in  the  hands,  than  if  it  was  so  much 
red-hot  iron:  but,  from  that  cause,  this  consequence  at  least  does 
not  follow.  The  effect  nevertheless  which  it  does  produce,  is  that 
of  increasing,  instead  of  removing,  the  thirst  which  it  is  endeavour^ 
to  quench :  so  that  the  natives  prefer  enduring  the  utmost  extremity 
of  mis  feeling,  rather  thap  attempt  to  remove  it  by  the  eating  of 
snow.  I  am  not  sufficiently  acquainted  with  medical  philosophy  to 
explain  this,  nor  am  I  aware  that-  it  has  been  explained;  ana  ill* is, 
perhaps,  as  unfounded,  as  it  is,  in  me,  presuming,  to  suggest  that  the 


MV  ' 


TO  THB  ABCTIC  RBOIOilS.. 


I 


217 


- .  Wtreme  c^^^tlie  material  thus  swallowed,  when  the  body  is- y 
heated  a^apMHsted  hjr  fatigue,  may  bring  on  some  inflammatory 
state  j$f|fP^mach,  so  as  tQ  cause  the  sunering  in  question. 

Resuming,  our  journey  across  the  lake/ive  found  the  travelling 
much  improved  by  the  late  gales;  a;td;  soon  after  midnight,  we  • 
arritred  at  the  hut,  truly- exhaystedJby  fatigue.    In  this  condition,^it^ 
.  wan  an  exceeding  mor^cation  to  nnd  that  a  wolf  had  torn  off  tlife  • 
dodt  with  which  we  had  secured  its  entrance,  an4  that  it  was  filled  ' 
with  snow.    We  wop  therefore  compelled  to  cl^mence  digging, 
into  it,  tired  as  we  wre;  when,  after  an  hour's? hard  labour,  we  ' 
cc^trived  to  make  it  habitable  for  the  nighty  and  got  into  out  bags 
at  two  in  {he  morning.     >  ♦ 

3d,  When  we  aw<%e,  aqd  b^gan  to  bethink  ourselves  of  depart- 
ing, the  Weather  was  very  unsettled  and  blowing  in^ualls  from  the 
north;  whilei  fresh  falling  snow  added  to  the  obscurity  and  annbj^ce 
caused  by  that  which  was  drifting  before  the  wind  from  the  faces  of 
f  the^hills.  The  dog?  too  were  so  tir6d,  by  the  labours  of.ffe  preceding 
day,  that  nothing  but  my  great  anxiety  to  rejoin  the  shf  and  relieve 
the  probable  fears  of  Captain  Ross  and  our  other  shipmates,  would 
have  induced'  me  to  proceed. '  ,        ,  . 

We  found  the  travelling  extremdy  bad :  but  the  worst  part  of  it, 
by  far,  was<a  space  of  about  a  mile,  crossing  the  high  ridge  which 
separate  the  next  lake  from  that  which  we  had  left.  This  aione 
cost  us  from  nin^  in  the  morning  until  two ;  nor  did  we  accomplish 
it  without  making  three  separa^  trips;  with  die  sledge,  so  as  to  bring 
forward  all  our  matters  to  the^same  point  -■     . 

On  the  lake,  however,  the  ice  was  as  smooth  as  gl^ss,  for  the 
winds  had  swept  it  cletin;  so  that  we  crossed  it  very  quickly,  and 
at  a  run  all  the  way,  haying  th^  additional  advantage  of  a  breeze 
in  our  rear,  which  very  much  diminished  our  exertions.  The  river 
had  been  laid  equally  bare;  and,  though  comparatively  rough,  it 
was  still  slippery,  so  that  we  got  over  it  easily,  ivith  the  exception 
of  a  few  ffuls  in  the  snow  holes  which  are  generally  fbund^  in  ice  of 
this  nature.       *"  .     .  IjOt 

In  the  eve^ig„by  sev^^^lock,  we  had  arrived  tit  that  SIplnded 
portion  whicK^had  forirony  named  after  the  Rev,  Edward  Stan- 
ley; and  at  nine  reached  the  Western  point  of  the  inlet  cajted  An- 
,  ne-re-ak-to.  The  whole  length  ilf  the  Stanley  river,  from  the  lake 
to  the  sea,  I  thus  fbupd  not  to  exqji^g^  ten  "miles,  whUe  its  greatest 


feelings,  < 

as 


breadth  appeared  to  be  about  a  qn^r  of  a  mile.  We  had  been 
informed  that^  ab|urided  with  fine  salmon  in  the  suflfapr ;  and  we 
could  now  see  theevidences  of  tUts,  j!h  the  remains^Kts  scattered 
about  its  banks,  li^ng  the  places  where  thl^atives  are  accustomed 
to  secure  and  conceal  their  winter  stocks  of  fish.  •' 

We  were  now  approacliing  the  huts' where  our  threatening  ad- 
venture had  occurred  at  our  first  setting  out;  and  being  doubtful 
unceitain  of  what  might  have  occurred 


jduring 


4 


#      I 


'    t- 


%f*^  *k 


s    r 


"St" 


%^ 


SBCOWiPvOTAOE  OP  WSCOVBHT 


our  absence,  1  waKsirous  of  passing  them  uno 
effect  this;  the  moi«so,  as,  we  were  now  alone,  i 
'our  guides  light  Th^  been  a  source  of  new  suspi 

'^  of  a  renewl^f  homh.    But  as  s#t>n  aafte*  hadi      

,  '•    ice.olf  thl^bay,  we  sair  Jb-lu-sh^onting  t<Ward  uSr%>u^^et^tiy^ 
%ppr6achBig  wHh!m&|,cautioi^4f  not  ^,^m^\?^^  ^%^^ 
,  ™.    If  th?s  pHedm^xisteipM  verylM^  £om 

'    that  of  hostility,  trie  f^t  hp«panned\f  ee^n^^ 
^doubts,  and  I  ther#f|Seted  hijls Wijjpal  %<p!^ 

IxpIaimnjgLtnen  to  bjfo 

v^  hacPreft  behino^l 

..  he  had;at' first  expcesi 

isfied,  wstf  went  off  to  c^\ 

....   ^'-  „  • 

I  tgai'ned  sight  of  our  shipV^fter  having  now 
SB*,  wiAout  rest  or  refreshment  Unluckily,  at 
the  rtlnners'of  the  sledge  ^  ifito  a  deep  cradi,  ?l 
lat  we  ^ere  unable  to  extri#ite  the  machine  bf^ 
-  »^v  MlweiBree  ma^^e  could  apply.  We  Were^^refore  obliged  to 
* '-mhrdw  oU:  the  loact,  which  we  did  with  much  Ipculty,  as  we  wwe 
f^both  s$ed  with  a  giddiness  that  threatened  fai»^;,to.|iave  underr 
"'  gone^eh  at  this  tempelrature,  and  with  no  «  at  hand,  would 
irobablv  HaVte  been  fatal  to  us.  This,  however,  feng  effected,  and 
-TOUr  stores  left  behind,  (6  be  brought  on  the  next'da^  our  comrades 
; , 'r>  »  *  Wthe  ship,  we  gbjt  into  the  sledge,  and  arrivedon  Mard  the  Victonr 
i'.;^  ^  at  four  in  the  morning  of  the  fourth  of  May,  dxd^dmgly  fatigued, 
»**- IV    r  but  otherwise  in=gdbd  health,  '  \    ' 

-  .        »    '  ..a 


■r' 


.% 


-I 


i 


;*« 


■*"'- 


T-*;;-*- 


L 


■■.*''-s-- 

^   ■:.                  ,'   '  .         ' 

* 

1k> 

1 

X 


f -3 


V 


t's^ 


•TO  THK  ARCTIC  SK0I0N8. 


A19 


/. 


CHAPTER  XXVL 


^' 


.^ 


g  now 
kily,  at 
crack,  "^ 
line  bj^^   " 
iged  to 
e  were 
undcK-    . 
,  would 
ed,  and 
mrades 
iTictory 
itiguedt 


T-v 


■^ 


'  •  '.  "■  .      ■    ■    ■   .  ,  ■  ■  ,  ,  * 

Repetitim  xtf  hea^  siiou) — Another  expedition  by^Coifmander  Ross-^- 

'  Jlnoiher  expedition  under  my  oum  charge — Summi3.ry  of  the  month 

(f  April.         !.  -  "         -  .       •        • 

^ay  5tk.  It  was  colder  on  this  day  than  on  the  preceding,  and 
there  was  a  fre^h  breeze.  We  were  visited  by  a  large  paWy  of 
nati^^^'from  the  northward,  bringing  some  good  skins  for  sale; 
There  came  afterwards  from  the  westward,  the  two  who  had  bcfen 
Commander*Ross's  guides,  on  the  last  journey ;  but  they  had  not 
been  able  to  bring  in  the  other  musk  ox,  and  had  not  dS^n  any  more.' 
On  the  following  day,  another  party  came  from^^  southward, 
bringing  some  seal,  >and  some  skins;  and,  aftenYOTds,  an  old  man 
whom  we  had  not  seen  befom  but  who' was  father  to  two  of  the 
boys  whom  we  knew.  His  wtfe^  it  seemed,  had.  left  her  last  hus- 
band, of  tluree,  to  live  .with  himOwid^  as  far  as  we  could  make  out, 
this  was  law,  or  usage  equivalent  tol^w.'  Tikatagin  also  arriving, 
on  his  way  southward,  I  engaged  hiS?i  to  remaiu,  that  he  .might 
accompany  me  in  a  tour  on  the  loUm|F%  ^^7* 

7th.  A  heavy  fall  of  sriow  rfendemfthis  journey  impracticable:  it 
would  at  least  have  been  useless.  Th^  guide  himself  was  much 
more  pleased  to  remain  on  board  than  ^9  travel  in  such  weather. 
It  was  equally  useless  to  proc^d  the  next  4ay»  as  every  thing 
was  buried  in  snow,"  but  the  gdde  went  away  by  himself  to  fetch 
his  canoe.  In  the  evening  we  received  a  visit  from  the  stranger  old 
man,  his  wife,  and  two  children.  The  wife  vvas  a  young  one ;  but 
,w©  found  msit  P'-had  another,  while  the  two  young  men  had  but 
one  between  them;  the  whole  party  living  together.  The^^e  was 
also  an  old  woihan  with  two  husbands,  unitmg  to  form  this  sfrange 
polygamous  family;  and  we  'were  assured  mat  matters  went  on 
with  perfect  harmony.  Gff  course,  it  req^ed  more  intimacy  than 
we  had  yet  attained  with  these  tribes,  ta  understand  thoroughly 
their'system  of  matrimonii  anangements ;  but  \^hat  we  thus  already 
'"^ew.vauffi*"^  toM^iia^tOT^  that  the  history  which  Caesar 

,h»9  jfi^^^^WiX^hn&mors  on  this  suliject,  is  no|  so  lintrae  as 
it  hd#i>eeri  sometime^1^6u»i^ 
"'idthl  A  northerly >WMid,  As  usual,  brought  the,  thermometer  from 

^ro  up  to  18*.  ^Sunday  service  b^g  perfowned,*  the  man  whp  had 

tone  for  his  caftoe  returned  i^idP^the  frame  on^i^  ^ck,.h&ving 
royght  it  fi«m  Stetg-a-voke.  He  wag  prd»fisd¥a  nevi^^iiOHOp  for  it, 
if  he  would  bring  us  a  seal ;  and;. preferring^ to  tj^avel  at-. night,  set 
off  at  ten  tj'clocfc"  A  fox  wag^t^ken  in  one  of  jthe  trapi^,  °v-  , 


.^t^enin^e 


^■■^ 


_j'_ 


,P 


>-i 


^^v;^■■^ 


:'>*A  . 


,    »l 


y 


■'■'W 


V-' 


1  .  ■, 


,  V 


280 


SSCORD  VOTAOE  OV  DMCOVKRY 


'  '  '■  .  .-.-■■-.,.. 

lOiA.  The  weather  continued  cold;  but  when  the  snow  ceased,  it 
was  clear.  A  party  went  to  the  great  lake  to  measure  the  ice,  which 
they  found  to  be  eight  feet  thick,  and  the  water  seventeen  fathoms 
deep.  They  saw  no  fish,  but  baited  and  set  some  lines.  The  tern- . 
perature  continued  again  far  lower  than  was  to  be  exrccted  at  this 
season;  giving  us  some  disagreeable  anticipations.  Some  natives 
brought  a  skin.  The  traces  of  reindeer  and  hares  were  seen,  and 
eight  snow  buntings  killed.  At  the  end  of  our  base  line,  soundmgs 
were  obtained  in  90  fathoms.  .    , 

12th.  AH  the  power  of  the  sun,  with  a  clear  sky,  could  not  raise 
the  temperature  beyond  11°.    No  filh  were  found  at  the  lines,  but      / 
a  ptarmigan  was  shot    Two  of  our  chief  friends  among  the  natives  / 
arrivii^,  arrangements  were  made  for  a  new  journey.    Some  moi^ 
camelromthe  south,  on  the  following  day,  but  brought  nothing; 
they  went  on  to  the  northern  huts;  and,  finding  that  this  party  was 
gone  6n  an  expedition,  returned  to  sleep  on  board.  The  therrnometer 
raiiged  between  1°  and  15°.  1 

^    i4th.  Nearly  the  wl^ole  of  the  northern  party  came  to  tiS,  and 

'  brought  the  head  and  skin  of  the  second  musk  ox ;  but  as  it  had  lost 
the  hind  legs,  it  wai  spoiled  as  a  specimen.  They  also  brought  the 
remainmg  quarter,  or  rather  hatinch,  which  weighed  forty-three 
poOnds,  together  with  some  skins,  and  a  specimen  of  a  greenstone 
chisel  IsiS.  Our  only  success  in  sporting  was  a. single  grouse.  We- 
Had  stipulated  for  a  seal,  for  our  dogs,  but  they  did  not  arrive  on 
the  next  day :  having  probably  been  unsuccessful.  Every  thing  was ,  t^ 
arranged  to-day  for  the  contemplated  jourtiey  on  Monday.  The 
fitting  of  the  ship  went  on;  but  the  condensing  tanks  were  now  re- 
moved, aSiSeing  no  longer  necessary.  i'       , 

16^.  Church  being  held  as  usual,  a  large  party  (^e  from  the 
northward,  and  another  from  the  southern  village;  biif  iiey  brought 
no  se4,  nor  aught  else.  The  last  set  infohned  us  that  they  ^^^erd'to 
break  up  the  next  day,  and  to  divide  into  two  parties ;  one  for  hunt- 
ing  the  musk  oxen,  and  the  other  for  fishing  in  the  lake.  Ehch 
promised  to  bring  us  suppUes  before  thfey  took  leave.  TIfc  thermome- 

-  ier  was  about  10°; 

V7th.  The  men  and  the  leading  mate  went  on  with  the  sledge  and 
the  boat,  for  the  purpose  of  transporting  them  a  stage  of  ten  miles,  ^ 
when  the  men  who  were  not  intended  to  proceed  Were  to  return. 

^  This  they  did  in  the  evening ;  on  which,  Commander  Ross  and  the 
'surgeon  proceeded  in  the  small  sledge,  to  join  the  Wate  and  the 
advancecf  party.  No  supplies  arrived  from  the  natives,  nor  did 
we  see  any  of  them.  On  the  following  day  it  becaipe  so  much 
warmer  that  the  thermometer  rose  to  30°,  and  small  pools  of  water 
appeared  on  the  rocks,  under  the  influence  of  the  sun.v  The  eyes  of 
the  men  who  had  constituted  the  party  of  the  last  expedition  had 
been  inflamed  by  their  journey,  and  they  were  taken  care  of  accord- 
ingly. .*' 
^]inh:  Thft  Miry>enn  i^umed.  with  the  mate,  firom  ^e  detached 


eyes 

pure 

of  pi 

/.  were 

"^^nue 

^.    and 


-* 


i  1 


jf 


TO  THE  ABGTIC  KBOIOKS. 


2S1 


igwas,  ^ 
The 


party,  which  he  had  left  about  Menty  miles  off,  under  the  care  of 

two  Esquimaux;  bringinuH^ck  their  sledce  and  dogs.    The  mate's 

eyes  were  so  much  al!eKed^t^mt  he  could  not  proceed.    They  had 

purchased  food  for  the  dogs^-ffUm  the  Esquimaux;  and  their  stock 

of  provisions  was  increas^by  tharetum  of  oiu"  two  officers.    We 

V,  were  pliSased  to  find,  on  the  followmg^  day,  that  the  weather  con- 

""ffinued  fo  favour  their  expedition.    The  different  patients  were  better, 

-    and  vire  proceeded  to  lay  gravel  round  the  ship  and  over  the  Kru- 

senstem. 

21st.  The  sun  could  not  raise  the  thermometer  beyond  19°;  and 
on  going  t<>  the  hole  which  had  been  made  in  the  lake,  it  was  found 
covered  vfiih  ice  six  inches  thick;  the  ice  of  the  lake  itself  being 
seven  feet  apd  a  half  The  baits  were  untouched;  and  our  other 
search  after  game  was  unsuccessful.  On  the  following  day  we  ascer- 
tamed  that  the  ice  near  us  had  not  increased  in  thickness,  though 
there  were  four  inches  fo^ed  in  the  hole.  The  track  of  a  musk  ox 
was  seen  on  the  ice  not  far  from  us.  A  summer  tent  was  made,  and 
some  sails  repaired. 

23d.  This  Sunday  was  the  anniversary  of  our  departure  from 
England.  The  musk  ox  furnished  us  with  fresh  boiled  and  roast 
meat  for  the  whole  crew.  It  had  no  more  taste  of  musk  than  before; 
and,  having  been  longer  kept,  was  more  tender.  During  their  walk 
after  church,  the  men  tracked  a  white  bear,  as  well  as  some  ban* 
and  grouse.  In  the  evening,  Ikmallik,  the  geographer,  with  his  wii 
and  family,  and  two  other  men,  arrived,  with  the  intention  of  atten4-„ 
ing  Commander  Ross  on  his  expedition,  and  were  much  disappoiifted 
to  find  that  he  had  been  so  long  gone.  It  appeared  that  He  had  mis- 
,  calculated  the  day,  counting  ten  instead  of  five.  We  therefore 
engaged  them  to  follow  or  meet  him  with  provisions,  within  a  week;> 
at  which  they  were  much  pleased.  We^  also  borrowed  a  dog  from 
them,  as  our  own  were  all  absent,  in  case  we  shmild  meet  the  bear 
that  had  been  marked.  They  had  been  unsuccesaiil  in  seal  hunting, 
but  had  discovered  some  holes,  and  hoped  shortly  to  Imrig  us  an 
animal  for  the  dogs.  Each  of  the  men  received  a  fish-hook  as  a  pre- 
sent; and  the  wife  a  pincushion.  One  of  the  men  gave  proof  of^  his 
parental  affection,  by  giving  his  stockings  to  his  boy,  who  had  ster- 
■    ped  into  a  pool  of  water,  and  going  barefooted  home.  '^ 

24<A.   The  canvas  roof  was  to-day  taken  off  as  far  as  the  mai 
tnast,  the  sledge  prepared,  and  other  work  dbne  to  the  ship.    The 
imii^vraa  north;  but,  at  midnight,'the  thermometer  was  at  plus  12°. 
,      Bo^days  were  clear  and  fine:  the  work  went  on;  a  ptarmigan  was 
killed,  and  the  tracks  of  deer  and  wolves  seen.    We  had  a  right  to 
^     conclude  that  the  former  were  migratuig  to  th^  north,  with  their  ene- 
'    mies  haa^j^  on  theii^  rewv  It  was  the  highest  tide  we  had  yet  wit* 
-  nesspd^Hfc  to  nearly  eight  feet  •     •.  '         ^^    --v*.-,     .  . 
'    26/)^Prae  first  fog  we  had  seen  this  year  came  «ii  this  tnomio^, 
andwjSwUo.wed  by  a  fine  day,  the  thermometer  reaching.  26°.  The 
snow  was  reported^  to  be  melting  fast;  and  a  hole  being  cbt  in  the 


% 


#« 


:ii^. 


# 


,,*>.' 


-t 


"^«2a 


SECOND  VOTAOH,  OF  DI9COVBBY 


u^      %,,. 


N. 


% 


ice,  in  a  ii    ■■|||Bli||imn       oridndly  Jate  in  freezing,  in, conse- 
quence   ImMtl^MwF^ "." ''  ^^^ "®  ''"'^  "**''^®  ®        thick,j 
The  tem^^ffiPB^^ed  rising  on  the  following  day,  yet  slowly?    , 
and  th^Sto,  being  the  highest  we  ha^l  seen  this  yqar,  was  20°.  At/ 
the  hoTCst  mentioned,  I  found  a  carrent  running  a  mite  an  hour  t« 
tho'ea$tward,  with  ten  fathoms  water,  which  waS  less  salt  than  that 
neaK  the  ship.    The  footmarks  of  deer  continued  to  tantalize  us:.- it 
was  difficult  to  guess  how  thag£ig|8||^''  P*««  *?  *^'*  manner,  so 
>ng,  without  being  seen. -^^^'T'^^V^     #     >  „_ 
28<A.    The  weather  became  so  much  warmer  as  to  average  ^5  , 
*''i&in<'  to  near  the  freezing  point:    I  ascertained,,  frogi  a  measured 
fascrthat  the  height  of  the  highest  hUl  near  us  was  400  feet:  that  of 
«he  island  close  to  us  was  forty.    I  obtained  fiw  sets  of  tanar  dis- 
tances, and  made  some  trials  with  the  dipping  needle.    A  brace  of 
ptarmigans  was  kUled.    The  thermometer  rose  next  d^y  to  34  ,  and 
,   l  obtained  more  lupar  distances:  preparing  also  for  my /intended 
►  journey  on  Monday.                                          .              /        . 

30<A.   After  divine  service,  we  waited  in  yam  for  oinMffronnsed 
r  guides  whose  appointment  had  been  fixed  for  this  day.   I  knew  that 
a  would  take  a  longer  tiptie  to  conyey  the  provisions  to  the  appointe<t  ^ 
plac#  without  their  assistance^  and  therefore  determmedjo  go  by  • 
oursdves,  in  advance.    The  sledge  was  therefore  }Qad^|yrth  five 
days'  proBSions  for  Commahder  Ross's  party,  and  eightlofttiy  own, 
^wmm  addition  of  a  summer  tent;  and  I  departed  at  seven,  with 
the  siafeeon,  «Wo  mates,  and  one  of  the  fire  teasers.   An  additional 
patty  wii«^en  to  draw  our  sledge  ten  miles,  when  they  returnedf 
'  ,-feaving.us  at  one  in  the  morning.  . 

That  I  liftiy  notanten™t  the  narrative  of  this  journey,  1  si^all  here 

jfive  the  Nummary  of ihcf%esent  month. »   ,  _      -  * 

.      '  The  anxiety  which  natuSPy  attendedg3<?mmander  Ross  s  at>senc^ 

duringIthej|H)editfesm.whicfi  h^had  undertaken,  tefminatedin  con- 

'     gratiMionML  aO^t  of  %  safety  ariftsucoeM.  Jhs  guide  had 

conducted  hsf  to  tife  narrow  channel  leading  betweeirthe  two  seas, 

ittd  he  badtdctei-mined  its  latitude  to  be  such  as  to,  give  forty-five 

iniles  to  the^no^Jtour  position;  being  in  one  of  those  inlets  which 

icould  not  be-TOPed,  on  8m3c  Jfct  of  ihe  ittsituat®!  a  httie  to  the 

,    northwa^dof  EBzabetbLliarboitfaHe^?  it.was  prd^ble|iUt  Q^pe 

Manson  woBld  be  foiana  to  form^  north-east  frntg^mmca, 

supposing  the  jsea  to^ii^  cOBtmullPto  i^pe  Turnagain^v^   ?     ^ 

me  ^ploriij|orth«i|t'tov:iiie  bprlhward  of  Pad-le-ak  bay, 

together  wilh  that  tp  thMbvit  of  »%  had  further  been  the  work 

'  sSSf  the  s^p^^^ccr,  as'M^eipiUe6.    In  hi^^ournal,  will  be  foimd 

I   mtail  nee»l  not  lier^,  i^pat,  respecting  the  commencement  ot  this 

kpeditiori;-and  the  litt%>bstrtictions  which  it  expe>ienced  at  the 

'    outeet   And  if  r  rreed  not^notice  thes©  and  sbpne  other  matters  rejat- 

"inftfo  the  outfit,  »i)  is  it  unoecegsary/to  give^any  suminary  of  our 

ti^ansac^bns  with  the  natives,  during  this  Unonth,  since  they  mclude<r 

*'  nothiig  irtiporttot  in  ariditioa  to  the  details  already  given. 


■t-  • 


T 


4»- 


■a 


^:i:-:r: 


:S1*- 


,:i> 


t: 


.«  -- 


4. 


■'%: 


TO   THE   ABCTIC    REGIONS. 


V 


223 


The  temperature  of  May  was  considerably  below  that  mean  of 
the  former  expeditions  with  which  I  have  "so  often  compared  our 
own  monthly  ones,  Ibeing  only  plus  15°;  while  that  at  Port  Bowen 
was  17°  65,  and  the  mian  of  the  four  different  places  16°.  This 
augured  but  illfor  our  speedy  release:  but  y/e  were  willing  to  think, 
that  having  taken  better  care  of  our  thermometer,  it  had  only  shown 
a  lower  temperature  because  the  others  had  been  managed  with  less 
attention  to  a  true  result.  . .    .     • 

We  had  been  constructing  lee  boards  for  our  ship,  with  the  inten- 
tion of  making  her  more  weatherly;  and  our  labours  in  refitting  the 
rigging  were  in  a  state  of  great  torwardness.  Many  observations, 
of  various  kinds,  had  been  made  u         e 

-■  As  yet  there  was  no  appearance  of  scurvy;  but  two  or  three  ol 
the  men  showed  just  enough  of  threatening  to  make  us  fear  that  they 
would  not  be  long  exempt,  wless  we  obtained  a  more  ample  supply 
of  fresh  provisions  during  the  coming  summer.  The  snow  blindness 
was  not  more  common  among  us  than  with  the  natives:  and,  in  other 
tespects,  the  health  of  the  men  was  good.  We  had  not  succeeded 
in  procuring  much  game:  while,  in  reality,  we  were  too  steadily  occu- 
pied to  allow  m6ch  time  for  this  pursuit 

But  I  must  hot  forget,  that,  in  this  month,  we  completed  our 
twelvemonth's  absence  from  England.  It  had  been  an  eventful  year, 
Ifcut  far  froto  an  unsuccessful  one.  We  had  done  much  by  sea;  and 
it  must  notbe  forgotten,  that  even  a  year  of  sea  in  these  climates  is 
little  better  than  a  month  of  action,  as  it  cannot  well  be  more,  in  the 
valud^or  extent  of  its  results.  They  who  live  in  our  own  England, 
cannot  understs^nd  how  a  year,  or  years,  are  expended  with  a  pro- 
egress  so  small  as  that  which  has  attended  all  these  northern  explor- 
UH^Byages:'  if  they  would  translate  the  word  year  into  month,  it 
wdBenable  them  to  form  juster  conceptions  of  these  voyages,  and 
of  the  actual  time  expended  on  the  results  which  have  been  obtamed. 
But  we  had  also  done  somewhat  by  land;  with  the  prospect  of 
doing  much  mor«,  should  the  sea  fail- us:  and,  while  there  was  one 
view,  at  least,  holding  out  hopes  in  which  we  could  scarcely  be  dis- 

"•   .-1 ^L^__  _r ♦fc^-   ».1.:<.K    nn  tho  avf^raaP!  of  chaUCCS, 

antici- 

and 

little 

neither 


appointed,  as  there  was  anpther,  which,  on  the  average 
might  have  been  equally  gratified,  if  far  less  promising  i 
nation,  we  had  reason  to  be  content  with  our  present 
prospects.  The  year,  too,  had  been  passed  busily,  and 
discomfort  as  was  well  possible:  there  had  been  dangei  . 
frequent  nor  extreme;  and,  with  constant  occupations,  not  weU  Ukely 
KkSI  us,  we  had  riot  the  day  to  kill,  nor  the  loss  of  time  to  regret 
ToMd  that  our  crew  continued  in  really  good  health,  notwith^nd- 
ing  4^  trifling  evils  just  mentioned,  and  that  no  one  had  suffered 
during  so  long  a  navigation  and  so  bitter  a  season,  was  not  the  least 
source  of  satisfaction:  the  case  of  the  unfortunate  armourer  not  beii^ 
a  genuine  drawback  on  this  state  of  things,  if  the  loss  of  the  stokers 
arm  in  Scotland  ought  perhaps  to  be  enumerated  among  our  contin- 
gencies. ,        r 


T 


'#" 


'.J!^ 


I 


— ^^ — w~ 


l^ 


w 


284 


SECOHD   VOTAOB  W  DISCOVERT 


CHAPTER  XXVII. 


Expedition  ctmmenbed—JVarrativeefourJourneif — Return  to  the 
ship — Observations  made  to  obtain  the  difference  of  the  elevation  of 
the  easiern  and  western  seas— The  dip  of  the  needle,  and  intensity 
of  magnetic  force. 

May  Sist  The  weather  was  foggy  during  the  journey  of  this  day, 
so  that  I  obtained  no  good  views  of  any  jpart  of  t|ie  land,  except  a  rock 
iresembling  the  Bass  island  off  the  Firth  of  Forth.  We  saw  lour  gulls 
dnd  an  owl;  and  proceeded  along  a  rocky  coast  to  the  south-west- 
ward, skirted  with  large  islands,  very  much  resembling  some  of  the 
shores  of  Sweden,  between  Gottenburg  and  Strttmstad.  We  passed 
within  them  all,  in  a  clear  channel,  wide  isnbugh  for  large  ships,  and 
clear  of  icebergs.  At  seven  in  the  morning  we  arrived  at  the  huts, 
seventeen  miles  from  our  vessel:  all  taking  an  equal  share,  officers 
and  men,  in  the  heavy,  work  of  drawing  the  sledge,  which,  for  the 
last  four  miles,  was  considerable,  as  the  snow  was  mid-leg  deep. 
The  men  were  much  fatigued  r  and  the  mate,  Blanky,  could  go  no 
further.  But  having  lights  a  fire  and  made  some  coffee,  they  were 
enabled  to  proceed  to  uie  next  place,  containing  the  huts,  at  twenty- 
two  miles  from  our  ship.- 

Accordingly,  at  eighty  we  set  forward;  and,  the  fog. having  cleared 
away,  I  obtained  some  views  of  the  land.  We  arrived  before  eleven, 
where  we  found  seven  of  the  natives,  who  supplied  us  with  water, 
but  had  no  meat  remaining.  As  we  calculated  on  getting  their  dogs 
for  a  few  miles  further  at  least,  to  assist  ouir  labours,  we  pitched  our 
tent  to  make  bur  meal,  being  breakfast  and  dinner  conjoined.  We 
soon,  however,  discovered  that  they  vyere  going  imm.ediately  in  the 
«ame  direction  as  ourselves,  and  were  thus  to  be  so  heavily  la(^n 
that  they  could  give  us  no  assistance;  since  it  would  take  themselves 

/two  days  to  get  to  the  first  place  at  which  they  could  expect  food. 

*  They  departed  accordingly,  at  one  o'clock.  I  procured  some  ob- 
servatibns  at  poon,  determining  the  latitude,  among  other  things,  at 
60°  59',  and  the  longitude  at  92°  1'. 

At  five,  an  old  woman  whose  avarice  had  procured  her  the  nick- 

#  name  of  Old  Greedy,  passed  us  to  the  southward,  with  three  dogs 
drawing  a  seal-sldn  fuU  of  blubber,  virhich  she  was  to  deposit  in  ad- 

.  -^     •■  ■'   #  > 


/■i* 


f 


A 


'9 


M  TUT  AaCTIO  BMIIOim. 


M« 


tlMioe}  but  we  couW  not  prevail  on  her  1o  lend  us  one  of  her  tean^ 
Our  present  position  was  consiilerably  picturesque,  being  surrouwlea 
by  rugged  mountains  anA^islandis  in  every  direction  except  to  the 
north^astwanl  The  corneal  hills  to  the  north-west  were  iwirtially 
covered  with  snow;  and  at  the  foot  of  the  nearest,  was  a  detached 
rock  not  unlike  a  milestone,  on  ,which  we  found  inscribed*  by  our 
preceding  party,  "twenty  miles  from  Vi^ry."  All  the  rocks  ap- 
peared  to  be  of  granite;  but  we  also  fou»*fra^ent8  of  limestone: 
every  thing  seemed  to  be  what  we  had  mmd  it  since  first  making 
this  coast.  The  men  being  fatigued,  they  were  sent  to  rest  till  eight 
o'ciiOcka 

June  laL  We  had  started  at  ten  o'ck)ck  on  the  preceding  nightj 
but  we  went  first  to  a  hut,  a  mile  off,  to  seek  for  an  dte  t|At  hod 
been  buried  by  the  surgeon  tnd  the  mate,  on  the  former  ei%0ditioo. 
We  searched  itt  vain,  ats  the  natives  had  probaUy  taken  it  av*ty,  and 
we  wei«  tfMM  si^arccly  under  wikytHl  midnq^ht  Landing  at  the  bot- 
tom of  this  ehannd,  we  proceeded  soutfi-w«stward,  and,  nt  the  dis- 
taoce  of  ha)f  a  mik>,  reached  a  lake  about  forty  feet  above  the  level 
of  the  seaTfoBowiM  the  bed  of  the  river  to  it,  as  that  was  still  froaen 
oiver.  It  was  only  tfiroe-quarters  of  a  mile  wide,  and  about  two  hun- 
dt«d  yards  in  breadth;  beipg  surrounded  by  precipitous  cliffs.  Fol- 
lowing lipwards  from  it.  We  came  to^^  another  of  nmilar  dimensions^ 
a  huSred  feet  higher,  which  dischargeis  itself  into  the  one  below* 
Thntee  proceeding  in  the  same  direction  till  wte  had  attained  thirty 
fm  toon  of  elevation,  we  deseeded  about  ninety  feet  to  the  sea  of 
the  gulf  of  Shag-a-voke,  and  about  seven  miles  fr<«Bi  its  entranfee. 

By  means  of  a  seaUhole,  w*  found  the  water  to  be  silt,  and  crossed 
thb  part  of  the  bay  near  an  island  where  the  natives  deposit  their 
caaoes  and  winter  stores.  Tlw  land  here  changed  its  character, 
thougb  the  rocks  were  the  same;  tf»  whole  surface  b^  covered 
w^th  fragmekkts  of  granite  aind  limestone^  and  thus  presenting  a  most 
draary  a*l  barren  appearance.  ReacWng  the  land,  we  stiU  pursued 
ih  aouth-westerly  direction*  up  the  channel  of  a  river,  and  about  a  mile 

«iiiwanl%  at  an  elevatron  of  about  fifty  feet;  and  at  length  arrived  at 

>  emaH  lake*  part  of  which  was  covered,  above  the  ice,  by  water. 
Hire  we  met  the  old  woman  nstuming  with  her  dogs^  having  depo- 
ailidher  load.   Gh  bemg  ouebtioned^  about  the  axe,  she  confessed 

^*  that  she  waa  of  the  party  that  had  stoten  it*  and  that  it  was  in  pos- 
ifciribiioftwoofll^menattheeMtemhutsJ 

>  Haviur  passed  this  lalt*;  wt  then  beU  our  way  over  anotlifer  of 
^m^wK  aiKl  asptwt^b^Mided  by  kwer  hind,  which  was,  how- 
l^ver,  equally  com^re^Ppf  blo«iks  «f  stone,  some  of  them  in  very 

istic  shattes.''  Thl%M^^>ut  twein^  feet  M  than  the  former; 
«»,  Iblkiwingthe  windii(i|l^,.the  h^  foi-iittule,  we  came  to  the 
uBrth-easteiii  end'  of  the  great  hdMi  which-  seemed  eleven  or  twelve 
UnOeaiil  kawtk  WW  soott  found  the  huta  of  <he  Esquimaux  who  had 
l6ft  i«  on  theimcading  Ua^  for  tbe  purpose  of  coming  here  to  iiah: 


•4  Q,; 


:*?:■■ 


>  > 


1:1 


^k 


H 


8d8 


SECOlTD  yptAOE   0f  SISOOVBRX. 


■f: 


i ^  -       -  .    ■  ,.     ■ 

they  were  still  built  o(  mow f>as  before,  but, were  now  covered  with 
skins.   The  people  denied  all  knovi^ledge  of  the  axe,  slnd  said  it  was 
in  possession  of  the  old  woman.'  Proceeding  on  the  lake,  after  this, 
we  found  a  ridge  of  icebergs' on  it,  differing  much  in  aspect  from^ 
those  of  the  sea:  but  here  we  were  obliged  to  stop  for  ?e8t  and  re- 

-^freshment;  some  of  the  party  being  much  fatigued.      *    .     .  , 

We  set  for\yard  again  at  half-past  five,  and,  soon  \after  ei^t^  ar-        ' 
'rived  at  an  island  in  Qie  middle  of  the  lake.    Thf/ijnen,  hbwever,     i|?! 
were  so^much  tired,  from  the  sinking  of  the  sledge  into  thq  soft  snow,      ^ 
that  >^e  wene  obliged  to  stop;  lighting  our  fire  and  cooking  pur  din- 
ner, without  pitchmg  our  tent    The  time,  required  in  melting  snow     \  ' 
for  drink,  detained  us  so  long,  that  we  did  not  move  sigsun  till 'ten 

^  o'clock;  the  weather  being  clear,  with  a  gentle  breeze.    We  saw     '   • 
some  reindeer,  as  we  had  done  at  our  first  resting-place  ott  the  day 

'  before,  but  had  no  opportunity  bf'fiifhig  at  them,  from  the  distance 
at  whicK  they  passed  us;    By  midnight,  wo  hadTeached  the  end  of  "     * 
the  lake,  not  without  much' labour,  as  the'way  was  very  bad. 

We  now  travelled  south-eastward  for  a  mile,  and  ,gained  what  we  , 
judged  the  highesfc  elevatfon  on  our  ttj^ck,  which  1  conjectured  to  be 
.three  lyundred  feet  above  the  level  o^the  seoi  Thence  ^e  soon 
cam^'to  a  harrow  lak^  lending  in  the  same  direction,  which  Drought 
UiB  in  sight  of  0ie  western  sea  at  Padliak,  arriving  at  it  afte'i^  a  descent 
of  a  mile.    Hei^  we«  found  Ol^e^of  the  Esquimau*  packh^g  up  to  pyo- 

'  ceed  to  the  summer  huts^bout  two  miles  oflT."  I  halted  totake  angles 
and  make  observation^  while  I  also  measuu^  the  height  of  the  Mike 
above  the  leVel  ofl^e  so.a:  thus,  too,  allowing  the  men  that  rest*  of  ,  * 

:  which  they  were  miidi  i»  need^^  The'  lanld  apout  this  bay  was  'l%iy 
rugged,  and  generally  bare  of  snow;  while  numerous  stones  were 

-.  set  jiip  in  several  pladeS,  as  if  to  represent  m^n;  ofteh- presenting  very  ^  4v 
grotesque  resemblahces.  °      *  <  "•        ■  •''*l^ 

"  '  Thus  far-we  had;folloWed  themarks'of  GommanderTloss's  sledged  /  ifel 


M 


■if- 


:\- 


i^.-' 


:*", 


/ 


'    1 


Of  this  wAve 

4heir  own,  hayi 

used  the  hones 

sledge  rtiarks,' 

'  towards  the  a 


sure,  ..knowing  that,  a»  the  natives  had  none  of' 

eaten_ those  whioh  "wilre  mado  of  fish;. and  having 

the  others  to  make  rafters  for  their  tents.    *Th6se 

lowever,  now  tuAied   off  to  the  north-westward, 

^  foi;ming  the  northern  boundary  of  this  bav:  but 

^il  was  bur  buaness-  to  steer  eastvi^rd  for^the  island  where, we  had 

aj^ed  tod^sit  the  provisions)  ai^  which  was  visible,  about  three 

miles  OflTln  our  way,  «we  rrtet  two  of»  our  Esquiniadt  j^ends, 

<  going  -m  the  t)pposite  direction,  witli  three  dogs|  (drawing  a  skint 

.*and,  biing  much  th:ed,  I ,. offered  |h^  a  knife  if  Uiey  woukl  juNsist'' 

us  with ttheir- animals  and  show  as  wh«ft«  to  catclffish.,|^  , ,f  • , 

Thi^/being  agreed  to,  wrf  proceeded  to  arrange  matters,  When  I 

that,  among  other  things,  the  skin  bag  contain^  a  fine  haunch 

inison,  which  w^purchased  foi;  a  file,  without  difiicuhy.  Huiu;ry 

soon  revive,  even  at  the  prospect  of  ^  good  dinner;  and,  in  hatt 


hour,  W6  were  at  the  appointea  iiland.  K-wls  fi  very  small  iueV  ■ 


Kf 


i  ">. 


4.' 


iffiA. 


#  .- 


%'■ 


TO  THlB  ARCTIC  BBQldva. 


8«r 


about  two  hundred  feet  long,  and  of  half  that  breadth ;  being  a  mile 
from  the  shore  v/he9k  the  native  houses  were  built  We  found  it  to 
consist  of  ^anite,  covered  with  fragments  of  limestone,  and  with 
large  blocks  of  both  kinds  of  rock;  out  were  letter  pleased  at  its 
^offering  h  very  convenient  place  for  our  tent,  which  was  pitched 
without  delay.  The  employment  of  tookins  our  .venison  furnished  > 
us  with  those  pleasures  of  anticipation  whicn  fhey  aloiie  feel,  who 
have  no  fears  of  any  sinist£if  chances  between  "the  cup  and  the 
lip;"  while  it  was  satisfactory  to  find  that  the  .seller,  wiyi  his  file, 
seemed  iRdly  as  happy  as  we  who  were  rbgaling  on  the  dinnoj^ 
M^ich  it  had  fumisQed.^  \ 

We  were  informed  that  Comnnat^der  IjEo^S  had  gone  toward  the 
north ;  and  tl^  drew,  on  the  ice,  the  sh^ipe  of  the  land  to  the  north- 
ward of  .the, cape,  called  by* ^hem,  Kingairuick ;  which  I  copied, 
noting  all  their  names  of  places.,  This* cape  had'  been  previously 
naliied  Isabella,  byjpomnD|mder  Ross.  The  man,  TiJi^shU,  an  old 
friend,  soon  cam^;  and  gave  us  permission  to  fi«h  in  the  hole  that  he 
had  made  in  thd'ice,  about  two  hundred  yards  from  us.  Another  of 
them  went  off  itx  the  night,  and  made  another  hole,  which  thought 
fitim  hiVn  for4viro  hooks :  and  here  we  afterwards,  caught  two  dozen 
of  flonalj  fish,  sussed  to  be  cod,  in  three  fathoms  water ;  the  native 
nam^  tjeing  Irrlktu.  This  was'nam^  Spence  Bay,  iji  compUment 
to  ihy  relation  of  that  name.   .'"  '  '     . 

find.  We  allowed  oqr  people  to  sleep  till  six  in  the  rfioming. 
xcept  myself,  every  one  -was  suffering  from "^  sore  eyes,  and  they 
ere  therefore  kept  within  the  tent ;  while. iny  work  Was.  to  fish,, 
^)6k^aWf  and  Inake'  observations.  O^^  dinner  being  of  fisli  soup, 
was  irf  acceptable  novelty,  since  we  had  not  aSen  such  fare  for  many 
m6nths..The  W^th«i%was  ^warm  enough  to  melt  snow,  on  the  rocks, 
4q]c  dfinlyng,  wM|ut  the  laboui-  of  artificial  thawing.  1  here  made 
awme  observations  on  the  dip  of  the  magnetic  needle.  This  bay  is 
ten  miles  wide  at  this  part,  and  is  fidl  of  small  is)ets.  At  three  in  * 
the  morning  a  party  arrived  and  pitched  their  tents  a  little  to  the 
south  of  us;  promising  to  bring  us  fish,  in  which,  however,  they  dis- 
af^inted  us»  having  beeaunsuccesstuL  In  the  evening  I  repeated 
the  ob^rvations  on  the  dipLof  the  ma^pltic  needle  and  the  intensity 

(,,:  of  its  force.  '  ^  f  '  '     - 

*     The  Uiird  of  June  W^jS  a  very  fine  my,  tmd  we  were  employed  in 

fishing.     We  caught  a  dozen  (^fish;  >vhidhi  ^ere' carelessly  depo- 

L  sited  m  reach  of  one  of  the  dogs^  by  whidh  they  were,  very  naturally, 

4udevoured.  Two  of  the  nflh  were  unable  to  see  at  M,  from  the 
efftict  of  the  snow.  Tl]e  chief  mate  was  better.  Thf  tide,  in  a  hole 
furnished!  with  a  measuring  line,  rose  only  fourteen  indjies;  aifa  we 
remarked  that  we  caught  no  fish  except  during  the  hf^t  sunshine. 

.  It  is  to  be  suspected,  that  in  the^^  frozer^Jieas  and  lakes,  they  are  in 
a  torpid  ^tate  during  the  extreme  coldi  and  that  they  are  rouse^ 

,    like  the  ddnnouse,  on  the^Occasionai  occurrence  of  heat.  * 


f» 


^it 


^ 


<t^J 


0 


m. 


•■> 


1  >' . 


>^' 


.4V-J 


i    t* 


-^..•►..   I    y  , 


J-  (. 


'.**.-. -Mil 


>•* 


rrv. — ^ 


4*^4*»ywt  ii.i.Ti'i  ..Jil  f"ir*wi»i4"lfe-?'  f*"'  '4'^viih-'**-*^-^-'*^*--^ 


A 


'i' 


.« 


■•i/^ 


^ 


i.^'i  ; 


P4  ■■ 


'! 


938 


SECOKO  voTAoa  09  mwoywMT 


*  *,' 


The  men  being  blind'  for  th^  present,  from  the  effects  of  inflain> 
mation,  and  the  native  not  having  brought  the  promised  do^  I  w^ 
compelled  to  remain.  I  caused  a  htJe  to  be  made  in  the  ice,  and 
found  it  seven  feet  and  a  quarter  thick;  being  very  nearly  what  U 
was  at  the  ship  when  we  came  away:  hut  there  bein^  onhr  six  fiaet 
water  in  depth,  we  had  a  proof  of  the  great  irregUlanty  <rf  the  bot- 
^m.  There  was  nothing  left  for  me  to  do  during  this  deteirtion, 
except  to  make  observatuNos  and  catch  fish;  but  the  occurr«M»ce  of 
gloomy  weather  was  equally  hostj^  to  both.  ' 

4M.  I  went  with  the  surgeon  to  ^  tents,  and  found  that  th^  tHi- 
tives  had  been  unsuccessful  in  their  seial  htoting,  or  fishing,  widch 
last  is  perhaps  the  more  appropriate  term.  One  of  them  entreated  . 
\  miB,  with  tears,  to  tell  him  where  he  shouki  find  one:  how  were  Ihey 
to  suppose  that  men  so  superior  to  themselves  in  a  hundred  things, 
did  not  know  whatever  concerned  them  mosti  I  pointed  to  a  plac# 


at  hazard,  that  I  might  givf  them  hope,  at  least,  to  occupy  their  time 
and  staj^  Aeir  hunger ;  but  it  was  not  a  very  profound  jest,  to  say  that 
they  would  certaimy  take  some  if  they  would  wait  till  the  amtrntia 
came. 

We  now  learned  that  the   breach  of  engagement,  by  ano|ther 
native,  respecting  a  dog,  arose  from  the  circumstance  of  me  animal 
haying  been  bitten  by  a  glutton:  and  the  lameness  of  the  creatturer" 
proved  this  to  be  true.    Finding,  however,  that'they  had  two  other . 
dogs,  it  was  agreed  that  we  should  have  them  harnessed  to  my 
sledge,  with  a  guide,  to  proceed  to  Neitchillee.    This  too  would  be  ^ 
advantageous  to  the  ailing  men,  who  would  thus  have  a  longer  rest,      >. 
and  mi^t  be, well  enough  to  return  to  the  ship. by  the  time  I  had 
finished  my  short  Oxpeditioh.    Thie  surgeon  was  well  enough  to  go 
with  me,  but  I  thought  it  right  to  leave  him,  to  take  care  of  the  rest 

We  set  out  acconUn^y,  at  seven  o'clock,  accompanied  by  another 
native,  who  was  to  deposit  some  blubber  at  Neitchillee.  Proceeding 
to  the  southward,  we  passed  the  mouth  of  a  river  named  Kett^ara, 
and  also  two  stations  called  Owhyahriu  and  Oaheushrek.  ^x  miles 
further,  we  came  to  a  fine  clear  spring  of  «vater,  called  Amitioke, 
rising  through  sand,  and  much  warmer  than  the  thawed  snow,  of 
course;  whife  we  found  that  it  had  considerably  overflowed  the  sur- 
rounding land  during  the  winter :  a  sufficient  pfoof  of  its  high  tempe- 
rature, which,  unluckily,  I  had  no  means  of  asc^rtaiiiii^..  Looking 
from  the  river  in  which  we  now  were,  the  west  bank,  of  which  was 
low  and  flat,  we  coukl  see  the  mountain  of  NatchiUde,  and  in  the 
reverse  directiop,  other  hi^.land,  whence  a  ridge  seemed  to  ym 
the  formed',  taking,  af^  thi8,«a  south-west  direction. 

Proce^ng  now  down  the  Amitioke,  which  was  still  frozen,  and 
a  hundred  yards  wide,  we  arrived  at  its  entrance  into  the  great  lake    , 
of  Neitchil|ee;^bevond  which,  at  the  distance  of  hfclf  a  mUe,  is  the 
eSit  of  the  river  that  leaves  ^is  lake;^  course  of  which  iK9  couhi 
trace  in  a  south-east  direction,  as  far  as  the  eye  could  discern  ^y 


»«• 


-■♦,.;, 


•*.j  ■■'-  ■•■ 


t        '  * 

•         V      .J       'Ai^- 


r' 


*  .<,' 


/ 


•■  *■ 


\  •- 


TO  TBS  ABCnC  UKOIOITS. 


S89 


/tliuu^  On  the  west  side  there  was  a  plain;  but  on  the' eastern  one 
the  land  was  high,  with  the  two  insulated  mountains  of  Neitchiltee , 
and  Tulluktok. 

The  name  Neitchillee  is  equally  ghren  to  the  Iand,4he  river,  the 
liake,  and  the  village,  or  jsettlements,  of  the  natives.  Therd' were  here 
houses  for  both  seaeops:  the  usual  snow  huts,  namely]  ^mounting  to 
twenty-one,  and  the  summer  houses,  some  of  ^hi^  h^d  circles  of 
stones  nearly  three  feet  high,  forming  a  g^fp  of  thirty.  TKe  largest 
of  these  was  an  oval  of  fourteen  feet  by  twelve.  The  surface  wa$.  here^^ 
covered  by  the  bones  of  the  animals  which  the  iphabitants  had  eaten. 

I  took  the  Esquimaux  who  had  conducted  us  hither,  to  ascend  the 
mountain  With  met'tind,  in  our  way,  found  a' wolf  that  had  been  p£ir- 
.suing  a  large  heed  of  reindeer.  It  took  t#  flight  on  seeing  us;  to  the 
joy  of  the  guide,  who  was  afraid  it  might  have  carried  x>1f  one  of  his 
^ung  dogs.  The  colours,  which  had  been  carried  up  for  that  pur—  — 
pose,  were  placed  on  the  top,  with  the  consentn^  the  natives,  and 
thence  I  had  a  most  extensive  view.  The  termination  of  the  extensive 
fHOce  of  water  beneath  ns,  towards  the  south-west,  was  invisible;  but 
it  was  bounded  by  flat  land  on  each  side,  on  which  t  could  count 
hundreds  of  reindeer.  To  the  northward,  the  rivejr  Amitioke  was 
seen  for  a  long  space  towards  its  .source,  when  it  was  lost  among 
the  distant  mountains.  The  land  in  that  direction  was  higher  than 
that  on  which  we  stood;  and  a  stream,  running  from  itmr^ugh  a 
ravine,  formed  a  cascade,  which,  presenting  nothing  but  its  cCmpB^ — 
cated  pendants  of  icicles  instead  of  falling  waj;er,  produced  a  very 
lingular  effect.  The  name  of  the  Viscountess  Melville  was  given  to 
this  remarkable  scene.     '  .^^ 


After  descending,  I  measured  the  b^dth  of  the  nver  op^site  to 

idr€tt*ifeet?  with  a  depth  df  thirty.' 


the  huts,  and  found.it  to  be  two  Jiund 

I  was  informed  that  there  were  many  rapi(is  and  water-falls  betwe6n 
the  lake  and  the  eastern  sea,  and  that  a  4:anoe  coald  not  ascend. 
The  guide  said  ^at  there  was.  also  a  river  a^  the  other  end,  which, 
hte  believed,  was  not  navigable,  and  which  ran  into  the  western  s^a; 
but  that  it  was  very  far  off.  The  altismateOfeifect  of  the;  sunshine  and 
the  cold  on  the/ace  and  hands,  blistere<(^^  skirv  while  I  wtfb  here 
employed  in  sketching  the  land.  Ha ving*  finally  t«(k^  a  meridian 
observation,  I  quitted  NeitchiUe^^-at  one  o'<5lockl  i' . ' 

We  saw  many  cranes  ai)d  plovers;  but  having  unfortunately  iost 
my  stock  of  percussion  caps  after  shootii%  a  snipe,  I  codd  fire  no 
more;  to  the  great  surprise  of  the  natives,  to  whom  I  could  dnly  ex- 
cuse Aiyaelf  by  pretending  snow  blindness;  hot  v^i^iing  thepito  sup- 
pose that  out'  fire-arms  could  ever  be  disabled  or  useless,  /his  loss  ' 
proved  sttU  more  vexatious  on  the  passage  of  a  doe' q^d,nerfawn», 
which  came  within  twealy  yards  of  the  sledge;' at  the  sight  of  whiich 
temptation,  greater  perfetps  to  them  than  even  to  a  deer-stalktiif  of 
my  ovrn  country,  they  encouraged  me  to  fire^  with  'loud  yocifera- 
'*  ^     3?Ws,  iH«fc#»imatfiSy,  was  imp9ssible:  ^id  the  dogs,bi-< 


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SECOND  VOTAOE  OV  DlSCOVfiBT 


the  restraint  in  which  they  were  held,  set  off  in  chace,  with  the  sledge 
at  their  heels,  but  were  soon  stopped  by  its  becoming  entangled 
among  the  stones.  :       » 

.  •     Having  arrived  at  our  tent  at  five  o'clock,  the  guide  was  paid:  on 
'  which  he  departed,  after  beinff  informed  that  we  would  call  on  them 
in  our  way  hoii^ards.    It  \fas  satisfactory  to  find  that  the  people, 
were  nearly  Recovered,  and  that  we  had  still  provisionsLuntil  Sunds|,y.° ,. 
^5?^  Another  note  for  Commander  Ross  was  now  deposited  iindpr  a  cairn 

f^:      ,.        which  we  erected:  informing  the  natives  that  it  was  a  marjc  for  th^  • 
ivf      ,  ■        ship^hich  would  hereafter  be  useful  to  them  as  well  as  to  duris»lves, 
•''I*       ;:.,  and  receiving  their  promise  not  to  "Jjull  it  down.  I 

.  i.j;    '  ,■  At  nine  p'clock  we  struck  our  tent  in'a  thick  fog;  and,  departing 

.  ,•:''.  ^t  eleven,  called  at  the'huft  according,  to  promise.  We  found,  two  - 
airs  of  the  inmates,  each  a  man  and  his  wife,  in  their  respective^^  ' 
ads,  with  a  trough  of  boiled  fish  and  oil  between  them,' on  which*  >1 


'  "^\-  ■-  .  " 

^    ' 

■  * 

*     ■ 

*..J.   . 

i 

^^they  were  feeding,  much  Uke  swine,  their  faces  and  hands  being  ;be- 
daubed  with  this  odorous  compound.  Another  native^then  arrived 
with  a  seal:  and  as  it  was  he,,yrhom  I  had  directed  where  to  find 
those  animals,  he  seemed  to,  think  that  I  skould.  claim  a  share,  but 
was  soon,  relieved  of  this  fear  by  my  refusal,  v^hich  produced  voci- 
ferous th^ks.  ' 

To  turn  this  gratitude  to  some  ■account,  I  desired  him  to  deliver  a 
note  to  Commander  Ross,  which  T  accordingly  wrote;  informing 
him,  for  the  third  time,  ofAhe  place  of  the  provisions  left  for  him,* 
'and  of  other  matters;  promising  tllso.  to  the  Esquimaux,  that  the  de- 
Jivery  of  this  letter  would  be  rewarded  by- a  fish-hook.    We  then 
parted,  on  the  most«friendly  terms,  after  I  had  presented  each  of  the 
women  with  a  sixpence  JBo  ha.ng  round  tl^eir- necks;  one  of  them  ^ 
giving  is  a  cothplimentary  convoy  Along  shoi^  for  aboat  two  miles. 
We  ha3  here  found  the  nStive  who  had  been  ill  of  a  sore  throat- 
xsome^onths  before;  and" the  phial  of  medicine  he  hs^d  received  was 
".  hanging  frorp  his  neckj^surf ounded  by  other  ornaments.    It  did  not 
seem  to  have  been  Jperi^d,  and  had  probably  been  kept  as  a  cham. 
In  return  for  it,  seeiiW^thht  th^  surgeon  w^s  suffering  from  toothach' 
and.  a  swelled  face^hp^proceeded  instantly  to  his  own  mode  ofciire, 
by  tapping  the  chejek'.firee  times,  and  blowing  as  often  in  the  pa- 
tient's face.    That  ttei  doctor  shortly  recovered  is  certain;  and  if  it 
was  by  means  of  the  charm,  it  is  not  the  first  time  that  toothach  has 
been 'cured  in  the  same  manner.  , 

5th.  The  men  being  now  quite  recovered,  we  continued  our  journey 
viri(h  spirit,  in  firie  and  clear  weather.  At  seven,  we  reached  the 
no^h-east  ^nd  of  the  great  lake  called  Teijgriak,  and  pitched  our 
tent;  the  sun  being  very  powerful  at  eight  o'clock  in  the  morning. 
Our  breakfast  was  called  supper,  becajise  we  had  inverted  ^e  usual 
Order  of  things  by  going  to.  bed  at  nine.  The  snow  had  been  deep 
as  we  came,  but  it  was  n^w  just  enough  frozen  at'i^  surface  to 
prevent  our  light  sledge  fro^  ^H^S  through  it. 


V 


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^  Js  great  lake,:  which  is  ten  n..,«„  .....g,  ^^^^,.^^^0^  ^^  ^„y  «  ,„u„ 
wide  in  some  places,  l?ecau§Ht  include^-a  chain'oTislands;  but,  in 
other  parts,  it  seems  three  of  wur  miles  in  breadth,  an4 'may  indeed 
»  te  niore.  The  icebergs  »n  it  had  probably  bed©  collected  into  thp 
ridge  which  crossed  froncj  side  to  side,  by  the  "Storms  in  the  early  part ' 
of  the  winter.  The  flattisl^,  latids  fomid  it  \bre  ^ptfll  «iuch  covered 
'by  snow. 

We  clepartcd  once  more,  at  seven  in  the  afternoon,  having  made- 

'  what  was  terined  our  breakfasf^.  the  weather  being  fine  and  clear. 

-    ,."'*y"'?  crossed  two  lakes,  we  sfTrived-  at. the  gulf  of  Shag-a-Voke, 

which  is  the  upper  e<jd  qjf  an  arm  of.  the  eastern  sea,' extending  in- 

.     :•  w;ai?d  about  eight  miles.    Thus  the-  isthmus  is  reduced  to  'seventeen 

,  r  ^:  Of  eighteen  miles  in  breadth;  while  twelve'of  these  are  fresh  water*: 

so  that  there.«re.  in  ifeality  but  five  miles  of  laud  between  the  eastern 

*7        apd  the  we^em  seas, 

As  the  gulf,  inlets,  and  strait  0/  Shag-a-voke  had  not  yet  been 
regularly  examined,  I  now  changed*  our  course  to  the  south-east- 
wiyrd;  Und,  after  travelling  two  miles  through  a  very  deep  snow, 
we  came  to  thestrjvlt  which  sepatates  the  gulf,  or"  upper  part,  from 
the  sound.  Hcfe^on  ejaoh  side,  tljere  are  precipices  of  nqarly  three 
hundred  feet  high,  the  general  breadth  of  it  being  three^uarters 
of  a  mile ;  while  a  flat  boggy  tract,  lindef  |he  northern  cliff;  reduces 
the.  breadth  of  the  water,  in  that  part,  to  less  than  two  hundred  feet 

6^  We  could  not  make  this  Sunday  a.  day  of  rpst;  and  I  con- 
tinued my  examination  of  this  inlet  -Aboa!  the  middle,  it  was  halt 
a  mile  wide,  and  bounded  by  high  mountains.  Our  progress  was 
rendered  very  tedious  and  laborious  by  the  depth  of,  the  snow;  so  , 
that  we  did  not  arrive  at  the  second  strait,  which  separates  the  mid-, 
die  of  the  inlet  from  tlje  lower  part,  or  bay,  till  three  o'clock.  A 
point  of  landrhere  projdfting  from  the  north  side.^ms  to  block  out 
the  sfea ;  loOAing  like  an  islapd,  but  connected  with  the  shore  by  an 
isthmus;  and  leaving  the  breadth  of  the  water,  in  this  place,  abbut 
a  hundred  feet  There  were  many  rocks  in  the  middle  of  it:  and  the 
ice  being  now  partially  bfoken  up,  the  tide  was  running  up  at  the 
rate  of  four  miles  an  hour;  while  we  calculated,  from  Uie  old  high 
water-Hia^k,  that  it  would  stilj^ow  for  two  hours.  This  would  W 
five  o'clock,  and  it  was  the  day  of  full  moon. 

Below  this  peninsula,^  the  channel  of  this  strait  bends  to  die  south- 
ward, and  a  partof  it  runs  iiitp  a  gulf  formed  by  a  second  peninsula,  v 
resembling  the  first,*but  projecting  at  various  points,  so  as  to  produce 
a  very^  intricate  passage.  At  this  division  ol  the  water,  there  is  a 
reef  of  laree  stones,  resembling  a  mill-dam,  being  placed  diagonally, 
and  probably  a  work  of  the  natives  for  thp  purpose  of  directing  the 
water  to  tb»  southern  shore,  whefce  the  principal  channel  lies;  while, 
■;^|    I  on  the  opposite  side,  that  forms  a  spacious  bay  backed  by  high  land. 

The  isthmus' was  covered  with  circles  of  stpnes,  being  the  remains  • 
of  i^itive  houses;  and  we  saw  a  singular  square  moaod,  ^mootb*^ 


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SECOHD'yOTAOS  OV  DtSCOVBKT 


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and  covered  with  vegetation,  resembling  the  two  facet  Of  a  bastion, 
which  j)roved,  on  examination,  to  be  an  alltiviu(n  deposited  at  the 
meeting  of  two  streams.  How  often  such  deposits  have  bfeen  mis- 
taken for  Roman  and  other  enca,mpments,  in  our  own  couni||;^|i8 

well  known.  '  ,■  -'"ff 

The  great  inlet  near  this  place  measured  about  two  thousand  feet 
at  the  narrowest  part :  and,  from  this  position,  we  saw  the  entrance 
of  the  bay,  three  miles  off,  being  the  outer  part  of  Shag-a^voke. 
The  north  side  of  this  opening  descended  gradually  to  a  low  point 
projecting  eastwjird;  the  southern  one  continuing  four  miles  more 
m  the  same  direcfaon,  and  then  trending  to  tboi^uth-east  This  side 
appearedxdear  of  rocks  and  islets;  but  off  di$  other,- there  was  d 
rock,  verjKremarkable,  which,  with  two  other  islands,  were  named 
after  mv  friend,  T.  Tilson,  Esq.,  and  his  daughters,  M^*en  in  the 
plate;  w'hile,  farther  north,  there  were  three  islets,  takiw^an  easterty 
direction,  which  seem  nearly  joined  to  the  main  at  |ow%rater. 

We  arrived  at  the  soiAhemmost  of  these  islands  at  seven  in  the 
morning;  and  at  this  "time  the  action  of  t^  sun  on  the  snow  bad 
reiklered  travelling  very  difficult :  the  prop^r^  time,  in  reality,  being 
the  night  ;''whence  ouHnversion  of  day  and  night  for  the  purooses 
of  rest  and  sleep.  The  tent  was  here  therefore  pitched,  afld  tha 
men  allowed  to  rest  and  eat,  while  I  made  some  necessaiy  observa- 
tiOhs  for"  the  latitude,  but  was  obli^d  to  refer  those  for  the  l<Hi^tude 
to  a  future  comparison  with  the  ship's  place,  as  my  chronometer  had 
met  with  an  accident  A  hare  and  a  brace,  of  ptarmigans  were 
killed,  and  I  saw  many  gulls  and  small  birds. 

At  five  in  the  afternoon,  the  men. being  rested,  we  proceeded  wWi 
our  package,  and  departed  at  seven.  Tihe  labour  in  this  part  of  die 
journey  was  very  severe,  as  we  were  obliged  to  draw  the  sledge 
over  hummocky^pe  for  eight  miles;  sinking  up  to  our  kne«i  at 
every  step,  and  orata  being  obliged  to  lift  it  over  tije  obstipctions. 
This  piece  occupieclus  six  hours.  The  weather  was  fortunately  very 
clear,  and  the  snowl^ad  wasted  away  very  mdch  from  the  land. 

7«A.  At  half-past  one  we  had  reached  Cape  Keppel,  where  we 
hoiiHed  our  colours,  and  halted  for  refreshment:  after  which,  resum- 
ing our  journey,  we  found  the  ice  smoother,  and  got  on  very  weU, 
making  a  drawing  of  that  rock  which  resembles  the  Bass,  and  giving 
it  the' name  of  Adolphus  Dahymple,  on  account  of  its  similarity  to 
the  crest  of  that  family,  ^o  miles  further  off,  we  saSv  a  ^ag  flyinff, 
and  thus  knew  that  a  party  frdm  the  ship  had  been  sent  in  search 
of  us.  Arriving  at  it,  we  found  a  note  from  Mr.  Thorn,  who,  fearing 
that  we'  might  want  provisions,  had  caused  some  to  be  deposited  in 
a  place  indicated,  where  we  accordingly  found  them.  We  did  not 
happen,  however,  to  be  in  want ;  havmff  husbanded  our  own,  by 
means  of  fish  and  venison.  We  saw,  about  the  precipces  to-day, 
many  gulls  and  owls,  with  ntinierou^  seals  in  the  pools  which  now 
lined  the  g^re.         ,       , 


/ 


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TO  THB  AXCTIC  BSaiOHS. 


(J^ 


At  seven,  we  arrived  at  the  ship,  after  an  absence  of  nearly  nine 
days,  and  found  every  thing  right,  and  all  in  good  health.  %  it  is 
but  justice  *to  the  nden  to  say  that  they  exerted  themselves!  to  the 
utmost,  they  deserve  even  more  praise  for  a  very  .different  display 
of  obedience  and  self-devotedness.  As  1  was  the  orily  one  who  drank 
no  spirits}  and  was  also  the  only  person  who  had  not  inflamed  eyes, 
I  represented  that  the  use  of  grog  was  the  cause,  and  therefore  pro- 
posed that  they  should  abandon  this  indulgence :  showing  furtlier, 
that  although  I  was  very  much  Ihe  oldest  ofthe  party,  I  bore  fatigue 
better  than  any  of  them.  There  was  "no  hesitation  in  acquiescing ; 
"and  the  merit  was  the  greater,  since,  independently  of  the  surrender 
of  a  seaman's  fixed  habits,  they  had  always  considered  this  the  chief 

Eart  of  their  support    Thu^  we  brought  back  all  of  this  stock  which 
ad  not  been  consumed  "the  firet  day.  * 

^     It  is  difficult  to  persuade  men,  even  though  they  sliOuld  riot  \k 
haUtua!  drinkers  of  ^irits,  that  the  use  of  tljese  liquors  is  debilitating 
iniilead  of  the  reverse.    The  immediate  stimulus  gives  a  temporary 
coivage,  arid  its  effect  is  mistiikea  for  an  irifiision  of  new  strengtL 
But  the  slightest  f^ttention  will  show  how  exactly  the  result  is  the 
reivers^  '^t  is  sufficient  to  give  men,  under  hard  and  steady  labour, 
a  draught  of  tl^  usual  grog,  or  a  dram,  to  perceive,  that,  often  in  a 
few  minutes,  they  become  languid,  and,  as  they  generally  term  it, 
faint;  losing  their  strength,  in  reality,  while  they  attribute  that  to  the 
<!Oiitinuance  of  the  fatiguing  exertions.    He  who  will  make  the  cor- 
responding exneriments  on  two  equal  boats'  creWs,  rowing  in  aS&avy 
sea,  will  soon  ole  convinced  that  the  water  drinkers  will  for  o^tdo  the 
others:  white  no  bettfH>iestimony  to  this  is  required  than  the  experi* 
«mce  of  4he  men  who  work.in  the  iron  foundries.   That  is  the  ha^st 
work  which  fells  to  a  man  to  do:  and  so  well  do  the  labourtjSin 
this  department  know  that  they  cannot  perform  it,  if  they  drink  even 
i)eer,  tnat  Aeir  sole  beverage  during  all  the  hours  of  this  hot  and , 
heavy  labour,  is  water;   If  London  draymen  s^jid  coalheavers  are  of 
a  different  opinion,  every  one  knows  the  resuk;  as  the  self-itiduigence 
which  leads  to  tliis  luxurious  and  profligate  practice  is  not  less  known. 
It  is  not  that  I  am  declaring  myself  an  advocate  for  temperance 
societies,  whatever  may  be' their  advantages,  nor  that  I  am  desirous 
of  copying  a  practice  lately  introduced  into  some  ships,  under  what- 
ever motives:  but  were  it  in  my  power,  as  commanding  ^  vessel,  I 
wodd  exclude  the  use  of  grog*  on  the  mere  grounds  of  its  debilitating  ■ 
effects,  and  indenendently  of  any  ulterior  injury  which  it  may  do : 
reserving  it  for  those  cases  alone  in  which  its  use  may  be  deemed 
l(|Bdicinal,  or,  for  any  special  reasons,  useful. 
.Such  is  the  account  of  this  journey:  but  as  it  contains  no  register 
of  the  proceedings  at  the  ship  for  so  many  days,  I  must  resuinc  that 
once  more  from  the  firist  of  Jmie,  the  records  having  been  made,  in 
My  absence,  bv  Mr.  Th6m.  , 

-  31,  _i^:r— 


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SECOHD  VOTAOB  Of  OI8COVXRT 


"  f*'*'"*'^   p.-pj^^-^^j5^.3^^w  ,  . 


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» »» 


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:4' 


CHAPTER  XXVIII. 


Proceedinjgs  in  the  ship  from  the  first  of  June— Commander  Rovft 

return.  ' 


e  IsL,  The  men  were  at  work  at  the  leeboards.    The  th«r- 
moraeter  at  27°,  with  a  ftjg. 

On  the  following  day  the  caulking^proceeded,  and  the  dead  i^es 
iwrere  pre^ring  for  the  mainmast.  Three  grouse  were  shot,  and  the 
thermometer  rose  to  29°.  On  the  third  there  was  Uttle  change  in  the 
heat;  the  work  in  the  ship  still  going  on. 

On  the  fourth  much  of  the  snow  was  disserved  round  the  ship ; 
the  siin  now  having  gfeat  power.  A  party  of  natives  came  to  it, 
including  the  wood^-leggbd  man,  who,  having  iH^oken  his  new  leg, 
was  drawn  by  dogs»  on  a  seal-skii^^jUiMr  fish  sled^  having  been 
eaten.  He  was  repaired  l^  tJte  carpenter,  and  departed  The  ther- 
mometer WIS  27"  at  mitkiwiit.  TheNjsual  work  about  the  ship  occu- 
jMed  the  foinmM^  day  as  wU  as  the  present,  and  the  temperature 
did  not  matenaily  chai^iek. 

iKi-  Being  Sunday,  the  church  service  was  read,  as  it  had  haea 
during  my  presooce  on  aoard.  A  party  of  seven  men,  with  the  car* 
penter,  was  afterwards  wm  to  tk^  southwmrd,  with  directions  for 
d^Msitii^  a  si^ly  oi  pvovisions  at  the  fk^taff,  vihete  we  found 
it;  and  also  in  ue  ht^iies  oi  meetipg  me,  should  they  be  a^^le  to 
extend  their  walk  far  eoougk  They  returned,  after  travelling  seven 
miles  ia  wa  purpose  as  fiu^  a»  that  was  concerned. 

7IA,  This  was  the  dav  jb  which  we  refined  the  ship,  after  f^ 
absoice  of  eagnt  days  ami  a  half,  and  I  may  here  resume  my  own 
joiiniaL  SAk.  I  fcHiad  the  thermom^er  to-day  at  J^,  and  tfie  work 
on  the  ship  goii^  o|u  The  snow  was  rapi(%  and  steadily  minting 
durk^  the  day,  and  the  appearanoe  <^  the  land  was,  in  coaiiaqueKe, 

Ctly  changed.  The  rigg^  of  the  nain  and  fore  mMts  was 
advancing;  wid  the  heat  rose  as  high  as  .V  fitUu^  id  31°  m 
the  ni^t  oi  the  tbflowmg  day,  which  found  the  ibretofHnaat  ^t  a|b 
apd  Ae  bowspjk  better  secored,  by  new  work.  f 

l(K|j|l.  ift  ad<£tion  to  the  progress  of  our  other  work,  we  c«t  a  hde" 
iu'^tbb' ice  above  the  KruMoMun,  but  cooIA  mI  ipot  a  t^  of  hat. 


It 


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TO  TBM  ABOTIC  RXOIOn* 


»W 


such  was  thd  depth^MMef  which  she  was  for  the  present  buried.  A 
hare  and  four  grounPnvinE  been  killed,  were  found  to  have  acquired 
their  summer  plumage  and  coating,  llth.  The  ice 'became  more 
and  more  covered  with  water,  daily;  though  the  thermometer  had 
rather  sunk  for  the  last  thi%e  days. 

'  12th.  The  canvas  roof  was  entirely  removed  this  day,  and  a  sum- 
mer awning  spread.  It  was  cloudy;  and  the  first  riain  of  this  season 
fell  in  the  evening.  ~  The  torrents  were  seen  running  down  the  hills, 
and  numbers  of  ducks  and  brent  geese  made  their  appearance  fot 
the  first  time.  The  several  kinds  of  animals,  I  need  scarcely  now 
say,  form  a  calendar  of  the  year  m  this  country,  as  the  flowering  of 
plantd  does  in  our  own ;  where  the  emigrations  of  birds,  if  I  except 
the  swallow,  nightingale,  and  cuckoo,  are  little  noticed  in  comparisons 
On  Sunday,  a  heavy  fall  of  snow  came  on,  early  in  the  morn- 
ing; aiid,  lasting  till  night,  the  ground  was  once  more  covered.  At- 
eight  P.  M.,  Commander  Ross  and  his  party  returned,  all  in  good 
health.  They  had  trayelled  along  tht  coast  that  led  .westward,  a 
hundred  miles  west  of  NeitchiUee ;  estlfiblishing  the  continuity  of  the 
continent  as  far  as  the '99"  of  longitude,  and  in  latitude  70°;  being 
about  a  hundred  and  fi]fty  miles  to  the  westward  of  our  present  posi- 
tion. They  had  also  travelled  along  the  coast  about  twenty  miles 
to  the  westward,  north  of  the  inlet  xvhich  enters  on  the  westward  of ' 
the  isthmin.  In  returning,  they  found  that'  my  deposit  of  provisions 
for  them  had  b^n  pap'%  eaten  and  partly.4estroyed  by  the  natives; 
but  they  still  found  as  much  as  they  required,  visituig  Uie  south-west 
river  of  Neitchille^  before  retiirning  homeward.  /Fhe  country  which . 
they  traversed  was  barren,  and  formed  of  limestone ;  they  saw  no 
deer  nor  any  other  animal  €xcej[)t  the  willow  partridge.  Bujf  they 
found  that  the  ige  in  the  small  lakes  at  Bju^k  had  given  way,  and 
that  the  same  w£^  the  c$ise  in  the  bs^m  Bhag-a-voke.  I  must- 
however  now, . as  r. have  done  before^  refer  to  Conunander  Ross's 
own niarratite^    /-  •      ;■,'■;.„  *  ''/:■'..'-  ,/.-^"  -:■"'■" 


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'     ►•!( 


CHAPTER  XXIX. 


'./"' 


i'^ 


Commander  Mo»a*t  MaratiD^ 

_Mayilth.  On  the  present  expedition  I  whs  accompanied  by  Mr. 
Maediannid  as  far  as  Graham's  VaUey :  the  object  of  Ws  attendant 
being  that  I  might  ppmt  out  to  him  a  8p(?t  to  which  provirions  might 
be  earned  to  await  us  on  our  return.  Following  the  track  of  qur 
party,  we  found  them  encamped  four  or  five  nSes  to  the  north  of  \ 
loo-nood-leed;  and  on  inquiry  we  found  that  one  of  them  had  been 
»u  affected  by  cramps,  soon  after  setting  out,  that  the  rest  w««) 
cfbliged  to  carry  him  in  the  boat  as  far  as  they  were  able  to  do  this ; 
th«rfid<«tidnal  load  thus  produced,  together  with  the  loss  of  one  hand 
'beir  small  number,  having  prevented  them  from  making  any 
^regress.  Sdme  of  the  men  v^ere  also  sufiering  from  inflam- 
the  eyes,  by  which  the  mate  Blanky,  in  particular.  wa» 
By  affected.  .       .       '     *" 

*     u-   ^**6,s"»'s  ™y«  now  became  so  pow«^  at  noon,  that,  added  > 

it  this  evil,  already  commenced,  but  too  soon,  I  resolved  to  tesume 

the  plan  of  travellmg  by  night:  we  therefore  commenced  the  present 

days  journey  at  thi^ee  in  the  afternoon;  but  the  snow  was  ao  soft 

that  we  were  three  hours  in  reaching  Too-nood-leed,  whence  BIanky.'s 

increased  inflammation  prevented  us  from  proceeding  for  two  or 

three  hours.    We  at  Jength  found  it  necessary  to  Ifeave  him  behmd 

under  the  care  of  the  suigeon,  however  inconvenient  such  a  lops 

was  to  our  small  party:  as  it  was  also, easy' to  prdcure  a  sledge 

from  the  Esquimaux  tp  carry  him  back  to  the  ship.    Tbus  also  we 

unfortunately  were  unable  to  carry  on  the  surgeon  to  the  intended 

spot ;  since  it  was  necessary  that  he  should,  return  with  a  man  whose 

future  services  we  could  not  afford  to  hazard ;  and  hence>  unable 

now  to  calculate  on  the  depot  of  provisions  which  ,we  had  intended 

to  make  at  Pad-le.ak,  I  was  obliged  to  limit  materially  the  period 

which  I  had  intended  for  my  absence  on  this  expedition.  / 

Leaving  them  comfortably  placed  in  the  hut  which  we  had  for- 

meijly  occupied,  together  with  a  quantityroil  provisions  in  case  of 

detention,  we  proceeded  on  our  jotimey.    Ous  force  was  thus  redu-     * 

ced  to  four  men,  mcluding  Abemethy  j  and  thoygh  assisted  by  eight 


4= 


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V 


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TO  turn  AB0TI6  Bialoirs. 


«87 


,' 


4ogs  in  a  second  aledgo,  pur  load  was  quite  as  great  as  we  could 
ttiitmage,  ance  it  consisted  of  three  weeks'  provisions,  besides  instru* 
meats  and  clothes,  and  a  skin  boat  "* 

Ascending  the  hill  from  the 
'first  Jake,  We  noticed  the  trficks  ofj 
in  pursuit,  accompanied  by  fi 
latter  had  torn  from  its  sider 


lood-lecid,  and  on  thj9 

those  of  two  Wolvos^ 

skin  which  the 

r,  the  animal 

had  probably 

a  shar^  of  the 


it  very  difficult 
Lake,  and  we  were 
the  direction  of  the 


itself^  partly  devoured  by  its  ei 
frightened  them  away,  and  our 
pru^-  ,  "  ■   . 
A  fall  of  snow,  with  a  fogj!  at      _^ 

.  for  us  tx)r;find  our  way  acjN^^  the  gr^ 
therefore,  obliged  to  guide  ourselves  X 

lii^d  imtil»three  in  the  morning,  when  weenc'amped  f6r  rest.  But 
a  serene  afternoon  followed;  and,  recommencing  our  exertions  at 
six  in  the  evening,  we  arrived  in  sight  of  the  sea  at  eleven  o'clock: 
Here,  a  view  from  the  hill  on  our  right  enabled  me  to  d^jtermine 
our  future  route;  and  hdnce  I  could  discern  the  low  land  of  the 
opposite  shore,  stretching  across  the  bay  from  Nei-tyeUe  to  within 
fiiteen  or  twenty  degrees^of  Cape  Isabella.    To  this  tape  I  then 

.  determined  to  proceed,  because  I  could  there  obtain  a  more  com- 
manding view  of  the  inlet,  on  account  of  its  greater  elevation. 

The  party  which  I  had  thus  quitted  for  a  short  time,  had  announc- 
ed their  arrival  on  the  shores  of  the  western  ifea  by  three  cheers: 
it  was  to  me,  as  well  as  to  them,  and  ^ill  more  indeed  to  the  leader 
than  to  his  followers,  a  moment  of  interest  well  deserving  the  usutd 
"hail**  of  a, seaman;  for  it  was  the  ocean  that  we  had  pursued,  the 
object  of  our  hopes  and  exertions;  the  free  space  which,  as  we  once 
had  hoped,  was  te^have  carried  ^s  round  tne  America^  continent, 
.^hich  ought  to  have  given  us  the  triumph  for  whi&h  we  and  all  oi|r 
predecessors  had  laboured  so  long  and  so  hard.  It  would  have  done 
air  this,  had  not  nature  forbidden;  it  might  have  done  all  this  had 
our  chain  of  lakes  been  an  inlet,  had  this  valley  formed  a  free  com- 

'  mumcation  between  the  eastern  and  western  seas ;  but  we  had  at 
least  ascertained  the  impossibility ;  the  desired  sea  was  at  pur  feet, 
we  were  soon  to  be  travelling  along  its  surface ;  and,  in  our  final 
disappointment,  we  had  at  least  the  consolation  of  having  removed 
all  doubfs  .and  quenched  all  anxiety,  of  feeling  that  where  God  had 
a{ud  f^^Mt^as  for  man  to  submit,  and  to^  be  thankful  fpr  what  had 
been  granted.  It  wak  a  solemn  moment,  never  to  be  forgotten;  and 
never  wa^  the  cheering  of  a  seaman  so  impressive,  breakii^  as  it 

/4j.d  on  <he  slillnessiof  the  night,  amid  this  dreary  .waste  of  ice  and 
snow,  where  thc^raivas  not  an  object  to  remind  us  of  life,  and  not  9 
sound  seemed  ever  tc  have' been  heard. 

At  midt^l^twQ  proceeded  over  the  level  of  the  sea  ice,  and,  pass- 
ii^  aotne  buinMk>du,  arrived  at  the  desired  cape,  a!t  six  in  the  mom- 
iog.    Our  eiK«lni|)inent  Jieie  was  .of  a  novel  nature;,  being  fonn(»4 


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by  excavating,  in  a  ridge  of  snow,  a  burrow,  large  enpugh  to  con- 
ton  the  party,  which  was  then  roofed  by  the  skin  boat;  securing 
afterwards  its  sides  to  the  surface,  by  means  of  the  snow  that  had 
been  removed.  An  opening  being  made  on  the  lee  side,  it  was  stop- 
pd  up  by  a  block  of  snow  for  a  door,  and,  by  means  of  the  blanket 
bags,  We  contrived  to  make  ojir  beds  both  warm  and  soft  A  spirit 
lamp  served  to  melt  Su^cient  snow  for  drink;  while  thus,  for  many 
subsequent  mghts,  we  enjoyed  a  sounder  «leep  thanwe  had  often 
done  under  cu-cumstances  far  more  comfortable  and  promising. 

Ca|)e  Isabella  rises  abruptly,  and  often  precipitously,  to  about  five 
fiundred  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  and  is  formed  of  grey  irra- 
nite,  presenting  patches  of  vegetation,  nhi#,  fo/this  climate,  seeSied 
to  have  been  unusually  luxuriant  in  the  pit  summer.  The  tracks 
Of  grouse,  hares,  and  foxes,  were  the  only  indicadons  oft  animal  life 
that  were  seen. 

From  .the  ace^mts  of  the  Esquimaux,Hia4  expected  to  sfee  a 
narrow  entrance  to  this  inlet,  beyond  tha-cap4  to  which  they  had 
given  the  name  of  Ik-ke-rush-yuk ;  as  the^ad  also  described  it  to 
be  formed  by  a  low  point  to  the' westward}  and  some  islands.    But, 
mstead  of  this,  the  land  on  which  I  stood^still  preserved  its  westerly 
trending,  while  the  opposite  shore  diverged;  and  I  thence  concludMl 
.that  the  reported  inlet  was  on  the  side  opposed  to  my  present  place, 
where  several  small  islands  skirted  the  northern  part  of  it  to  the 
south-west    Under  these  circumstances,  I  considered  that  my  best  • 
plan  was  to  continue  al6ng  this  coast  as  far  as  the  ent«£ce  of  the 
inlet;  the  boundary  of  which  would  be  detei^iined  by  the  hummocky 
ice  of  the  ocean.    The  if^ful  observations.  ^^  this  cape  w6re  then 
made ;  but,  in  returning  to  the  party,  I  had  the  miibrtune  to  break 
my  only  compass  by  a  fall;  an  accident  which  prevented  me  from 
making  any  further  observations  on  the  variation  of  the  needks,  and 
thus  causes  a  blank  which  I  must  regret,  pervading  the  remainder 
of  this  journey.  • 

_  Our  labour  hitherto  had  exceeded  our  strength;  and  it  was  there- 
fore regulated  thenceforward,  that  we  should  nse  at  four  in  the  after- 
noon; and,  after  our  meal,  with  the  necessary  stowage  and  arraiura. 
ments,  proceed  on  our  daily,  or  rather  nighUy,  journey  betweralix 
and  seven:  hrmting  the  length  of  it  to  ten  hours.  The  labour  of 
encamping,  the  evening  (being  truly  a  morning)  meal,  repairs  of 
clothes,  and  other  matters,  then  occupied  three  or  four  houn,^that 
the  seven  or  eight  remaining  were  left  for  sleep. 

Under  this  new  arrangenient  we  set  out  at  six  fai  ths  evening: 
)ursuuig  our  I'oute  close  along  shore,  under  the  projecting  poiotof 
imestone  which  skirts  Cape  Isabella,  and  extends  along  M  shore 
or  some  miles,  where  it  is  broken  into  capes  and  inlets  h«ineanfl  of 
ong  ndges  of  that  rock.  The  direction,  here,  of  the  coasVTor  about 
ten  miles,  is  west-north-west,  after  which  it  becomes  more  northerly: 
and  It  became  necessary  to  examine  the  whole  of  the  bay»  and  inlrti 


V  ft. 

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TO  THE   ARCTIC  >EOIOirS# 


S39 


iJipvuitni  uiiei  was  narrow.     I  ney.  However,  proved  s 

98 Jight  in  comparison  .^ith  the  loaded  party,  I  was  enabled 

ch  the  whole  accurately,  while  the  rest  skirted  the  coart 


thus  formed,  because  I  understood  frbm  the  natives  that  the  entrance 
of  the  expected  inlet  was  narrow.    They,  however,  proved  shallow: 

and  beinr  >■'•*•♦  ■ '■ -*'-  -•--  <  ^   •        -     '  •  •  - 

to  search ^„ 

between  the  several  points. 

21«t  After  a  fatiguing  day's  journey  of  twerty  miles,  we  halted 
soon  after  four  in  the  morning;  and,  in  this,  as  in  the  preceding,  we 
passed  several  canoes  covered  with  stones,  arid  some  cacfUes  of  pro- 
visions belonging  to  the  Esquimaux,  whicji,  of  course,  we  took  care 
not  to  disturb.  The  occasional  discovery  of  seaweed,  shrimps,  and 
shellfish,  also  s0i»ved  to  confirm  us  in  the  belief  that  we  were  really 
on  the  shores  of  the  ocean,  and  not  of  any  freshwater  lake,  supposing  ' 
that  there  could  have  been,  here,  one  of  such  magnitude  as  to  occupy 
the  great  flat  soace  of  ice  before  us.  This,  indeed,  had  been  at  one 
turn  miagined  by  some  of  the  party,  in  consequence  of  the^want  of 
a  fide-mark  on  the  shore,  and  of  there  being  no  hummocky Jpe  in  the 
Omng. 

For  the  last  four  or  fiv5  miles  of  this  jojumey,  the  coast  was  formed 
of  granite,  containing  large  crystalsTof  felspar,  with  garnets;  the  hills, 
at  a  short  distance  from  tlje  sea  attaining  the  height  6f  six  or  seven 
hundred  feet 

Our  present  encampment  was  on  the  shore  of  a  small  inlet;  and,    ' 
on  eAmining  it,  I  found  a  good  harbour,  but  of  no  great  extent,  at 
.  lUf  end,  well  protected  by  two  small  islands.    JMeeting  the  party  at 
the  further.point  of  thi&sinuosity,  a  snow  hut  was  found;  and  this  we 
beli«ved  to  haye  beerj  occupied  by  the  natives,  who  had  arrived  at 
the  ship  shortly  hetdHrib  our  departure.    Here,  from  a  lofty  point,  1 
gained  a  very  fextei^sive  view  of  a  considerable  inlet  to  the  westward 
,of  the  cape,  which  qeeme^io  promise  the  desired  opening  to  the  polar 
ocean^  as  I  judged  from  the  yery  diflferent  characters  of  the  two 
linores.    That  Qn/which  I  stood  was  foi-med  of  granite,  high  and  rug- 
ged, deeply  int^sected  by  ravines,  and  skirted  by  numerous  rocky 
islets;  whUe.  the\  opposite  one  was  very  low,  and  cqaiikfttd  of  lime- 
stone.    '  '^^'  '^  ■.  ^       ^jT^"         • 

;  In  order  IcTsAve  time,  I  proceeded  immediately,  in,  company  with 
Abemethy,  to  examine  4his  inlet;  taking,  to  aid  us,The  sledge,  with 
five  dogs,  so  as  to  assist  us  alternately,  and  thus  diminish  that  fatigue 
by  which  we  should  have  been  inconveniently  retarded.  We  thus 
pamed  many  islets  along  the  eastern  shore,  presenting  abundant  traces 
of  Esquimaux;  and,  after  an  hour's  travelling  toward  the  north-west, 
arrived  at  the  entrance  of  an  arm  of  the  sea,  or  perhaps  of  the  mouth 
of  a  river,  about  half  a  mile  in  breadth.  Here  the  hiUs  on  each  side 
were  of  granite,  rising,  in  some  places,  perpendicularly,  to  the  height 
of  three  hundred  feet  The  glassy  surface  of  the  ice,  here  at  least, 
indicated  its  freshwater  origin;  and  this;  with  other  puzzling  circum 
•tances,  rend6red  a  minute  examination  necessary.  / 

We  therefore  continued  our  journey;  and  after  travelling  five  or 


■'^) 


t>. 


u 


'( 


k  U 


*>.' 


#1 


! 


fii 


"t.\ 


i 


s 


840 


tecoND  voTAoa  or  BisconpT 


six  miieg  to  the  north-north-east,  reached  the  tei  intnatioii.xrf' the  inlet 
ana  there  foitnd  the  estuary  of  a  river;  the  banks  being  contractec 
at  the  exit  to  a  few  hundred  feet,  so  as  t&  prodi|ce  a  ramd;  while,  i 
littlo  higher  up,  it  was  a  quarter  of  a  mile  in  breadth.  The  numbei 
of  canoes  that  we  found  buried  on  the  western  pank,  jn-oved  it  to  b<  i 
a  principal  fishing  station  of  the  Esquimaux;  Is  we  might  equaUy 
have  judged  from  the  numerous  landmarks  andlcachies. 

The  weather  being  very  fine,  I  ascended  a  Hill  abwit  a  thousand 
feet  high;  whence  I  obtained  an  extensive  vieW  of  a  chain  of  lakes, 
leading  to  the  north-east  through  a  limestone  coLitry,  while  the  gra- 
nite  hills  took  a  north-north-westerly  direction.  In  descen^ig,  the 
party  came  in  sight  near  the  bOftom  of  this  inlel;  and  beir^  directed 
onwards  to  the  further  point,  heompleted  the  stlrvey  of  this  bay,  and 
rejoined  them  at  their  encampment  The  river  thus  discovered  was 
named  after  Nicholas  Gany,  Esq.  , 

22d.  A  fresh  breeze  made  our  burrow  coMei  than  was  aglieeabl^ 
though  the  thermometer  was  still  above  zero.  rlTie  drift  and  haze 
whicli  accompanied,  prevented  i|s  also  from  staking  till  eight  in  the 
evening,  when  we  continued  our  journey  along  ^^o  coast,  M^ich  soon 
began  to  trend  to  the  northward  of  west;  am,  shortly  after,  the 
cheering  sight  of  the  sea,  covered  with  hummodks  of  ice,  convinced 
me  tliat  we  had  at  length  arrived  at  the  strait  dklled  Ik-ke-rush-yuk 


by  die  Esquimaux.    Continuing  to  foHow  the  . 

'  quickly  round  to  the  north-west;  while  the  hea 

our  left  removed  all  doubt  of  the  course  now  t 

I  therefore  resolved  to  reach  the  opposite  coi 
prove  to  be  "practicable;  and  finding  a  f^v 
ice,  Mrie  left  that  on  which  we  were,  before  tr 
we  came  to  a  ridge  of  hummocky  ice  thictin 
our  path,  which  we  had  great  di Acuity  1.  . 
necessary  to  carry  the'htggage  over  It,  t&^  to 
sledge  with  axes.    This  occupied  more  ^an  an  . 
ing  some  islets  to  the  south-west  that  had  prevjoi 
by  this  ridg§,  we  steered  for  t%m,  and  after  pa 
ones,  nearly  on  a  level  with  th^  flat  ice,  were  obi 

irig  hare,  to  encamp  on  the  east' side  of  an  extei. _^  „.  „,« 

on  the  mornii^  of  the  twenty-third,*  having  travelled  about  rixteeo 
miles.  93d.  This,  being  the  anniversary  ofour  departure  from  Ehgi 
land,  was  distinguished  by  a  (ttnner  of  frozen  roast  beef,  and,  what 
was  now  rare  with  usj  a  glass  of  grog. 

The  group  of  islets  to  the  north-west  was  namei  Beverly,  Md  the 
laind  on  which  we  encamped  Matty  Island,  in  conmlmMiiit  to  the  fair 
donors  of  the  beautifjil  silk  colours  which  we  thnTdist^yedj  iiv  ho- 
nour of  the  day,  and  on  the  usual  fwrnallties  of  tako^  poswmoa  of 
this  hitherto  undiscovered  spot  v  , 

Towards  noon,  the  clearing  stray  of  the  haze  aB<Mfrod'me'U» 
a  good  vie^,  disclosing  the  north  end  of  l«i»  idr-^  ^"^ ' 


.  wd  found  it  turn 
washed  sea  ice  on 

pursued. 
8lioi;dd  diis  atteit^ 
tract  of  SRiootlr 
In  proceeding-, 
[h,  runnia^  across 
ounti^g;  it  being 
a  passage  for  the 
lar;  vrhm,  observ-' 
ily  been  concealed 
;  several  lower 
1^  a  superven- 
iive  island,  at  ffv^ 


aboM 


"i  - 


**. 


>% 


Ln  ""- 


—■ ^< 


■-»"  ir  »i»  iim'«ii  1^1 'txkx 


■"imi 


T 


■'■>^- 


/ 


TO  THE   ABCTXO   mEOIOlVS. 


241 


off,  with^a  great  extent  of  oceani  tefffiiiiating  in  heavy  packed  ice. 
Here,  also,  seeing  that  the  land  to  the  south-west  was  low,  and  appa- 
rently broken  into  islands,  I  resolved  to  keep  along  the  north  shore 
of  Matty  Island,  ^here  the  hummocky  ice  assured  me  that  we  were 
on  ■die  boundary  of  the  great  northern  oce^n. 

We  therefore  pursued  our  journey  at  the  usual  time,  but*  found  the 
w;ay  extremely  laborious  among  this  rough  ice;  while  our  toils  were 
"uch  increased  by  a  thick  ibg,  which  froze  on  our  clothes  so  as  to 

inder  us  nearly  mcapable  of  moving  under  their  weight  and  stiff 
ess.  It  was  even  with  great  dil^puRy,  so  much  were  the  men  ex- 
austed,  that  we  could  form  our  encampment  at  six  in  the  morning, 
irhen  we  halted.  Thejplace  we  chose  was  under  the  west  point  of 
Matty  island,  formed,  like  the  Beverly  islets,  of  small  ridges  of  lime- 
stone, rising  to  a  considerable  height,  which  have  a  west-south-wejst- 
erly  direction.  We  had  coasted  sdong  it  about  twelve  miles;  but  all 
else  that  we  had  seen  consisted  in  a  few  tracks  of  partridges,  together 
with  some  footsteps  of  bears,  hares,  and  foxes,  which  appeared  quite 
recent 

24<A.  We  were  in  a  miserable  plight,  from  the  fatigues  of  this  day, 
and  passed  a  comfortless  night  To  resume  our  hard  and  frozen 
dresses,  was  also  a  most  difficdt  and  painful  operation;  but  the  evening 
proved  fine,  and  a  little  courage  ana  exertion  soon  put  us  in  motion 
once  more.  Prom  the  place  which  we,  thus,  shortl^ttained,  the 
opposed  shore  of  the  island  which  we  had  left,  appeared  divided  into 
numerous  islets;  while  the  ridge  of  hummocky  ice  which  we  had 
crossed  on  the  day  befdfce,  was  elevated  above  the  heavy  pack  that 
filled  the  inlet  and  stretched  out  in  ah  unbroken  line  as  far  as  the 
eye  could  reach,  in  a  ditection  toward  the  north-north-west 

After  three  hours  of  hard  labour,  we  succeeded  in  crossing  from 
Matty  island  to  a  low  point  of  the  mainland  to  which  I  gave  Mr. 
Abemethy,  our  mate's^  nime;  conferring  that  of  Cape  Sabine  on  a 
cape  to  the  north-west  which  we  shortly  afterwards  rounded.  We 
thence  found  the  coast  trending  directly  to  the  westward;  and  here 
finding  level  ice  as  well  as  fine  weather,  we  made  a  rapid  progress 
along  the  shore;  hahing  at  six  on  the  morning  of  the  twenty-fifth  of 
May,  after  a  smart  day^  journey  of  twenty  ^iles,  and  encan^i|ig, 
pr  burrowing,  on  a  point  which  I  named  Cape  Young,  after  the 
member  for  Tynemouth. 

A  rteef  extending  from  this  point  north-westward,  for  two  miles 
and  a  half,  so  as  to  meet  the  north  point  of  Tennent  island,  protects 
an  excellent  harbbur,  could  such  a  harbour  ever  be  of  any  use;  and 
its  entrance,  which  is  two  miles  wide,  is  divided  in  the  middle  by  an 
islet  that  would  efllectually  cover  it  from  the  invasion  of  heavy  ice. 
As  the.  island  was  named  after  Mr.  Emerson  Tennent,  so  has  this, 
by  the  title  of  Port  Emerson. 

Setting  out  at  eight  o^qlpck,  we  passed  along  the  reef  ai}d  by  the 
southern  end  of  Tennent  iisland,,gaitaing  the  ^opposite  shore  of  tUe 
3* 


VI 


%' 


"  'm 


■  ! — r- 


.  (^ 


TSMBt&S 


■■'^•**-^^**PflJ^^§te^SEStt4 


;.^, 


242 


SECOKO   VOVAOK    Or   DISCOTERT 


harbour  at  eleven  o'clock.  Here  the  land  trended  to  the  west-north- 
west  tUl  we  came  to  the  last  point  of  an  extensive  inlet,  or  bay,  to 
which  was  given  the  name  of  Bannerman,  in  compliment  to  the 
member  for  Aberdeen.  To  cross  this  was  a  very  febblrious  task,  and 
occupied  us  three  hoursj  the  ice  being  extremely  rugged  and  hum- 
mocky,  and  also  covered  with  loose  snow,  whiclTIay  very  deep 
among  the  crevices.  After  this,  the  land  trended  more  to  the  north- 
ward;  when,  following,it  during  three  more  hours  not  less  laborious, 
we  at  length  rested  at  fivejin  the  morning  of  the  26th,  in  one  of  our 
usual  burrows;  a  house,  which  with  a  Uttle  pardon  for  the  Want  of 
precision  in  the  term,  might  be  caUed  subterranean.     ' 

1  here  began  to  doubt  what  our  actual  position  might  be,  when  I 
now  coMidered  all  the  indentations  of  the  coast  that  we  had  seen 
or  passed.  The  question  with  me  was,  whether  we  were  in  reality 
skirtmg  a  contment,  or  whether  all  this  irregular  land  might^ot  fe 
a  cnam  ot  islands.  Those  unacquainted  with  frozen  cUmates  Uke  the 
present,  must  recollect  that  when  all  i^  ice,  and  all  one  dazzlmg  mass 
of  white;  when  the  surface  of  the  «e4  .itself  is  tossed  up  and  fixSd  into 
rocks,  while  the  land  is  on  the  contrary,  very  often  flat,  if  not  level; 
.  when,^m  short,  there  iff  neither  i^iiter  nor  land  to  be  seen,  or  when 
both  are  equaUy  undiscriminated,  as  weU  by  shape  as  by  colour,  it 
IS  not  always  so  easy  a  problem  as  it  might  seem  on  a  superficial 
view,  to  determine  a  fact  which  appears,  in  words  to  be  extremely 
simple.  ^ 

At  any  rate,  I  could  not  satisfy  myself,  in  our  present  position: 
and  thence  one  disagreeable  consequence,  which,  trifling  asit  may 
iseem  to  a  reader  when  compared  to  an  essential  geographical  fact, 
was  of  no  small  moment  to  us,  and  indeed  to  the  progress  and  sue 
cess  of  thp  expedition  itself.  Had  we  been  sure  that  we  were  on  the 
continent,  we  might  have  left  in  concealment  a  large  portion  of  our 
provisions,  and  this  would  have  enabled  us  to  proceed  with  much 
more  ease  a^id  rapidity.  But  in  casfe  that  it  proved  but  a  chain  of 
islands,  these  would  have  been  left  behind,  to  our  unspeakable  fii- 
convemence,  or  rather  perhaps  to  our  destruction,  in  case  I  should 
do  what  was  really  essential,  in  returning  by  the  continental  shore; 
while,  if  not  darmg  to  attempt  tjiis  for  such  a  reason,  a  principal  oh- 
iect  of  our  journey  would  have  been  abandoned.  I  was  therefore  at 
tength  determined  to  take  the  safest  resolution;  and  thus  consent  to 
be  stiU  encumbered  with  the  heavy  load  that  so  much  augmented 
our  labours,  and  so  di*4vantageously  contracted  oUr  time. 

And,  mdeed,  diminished  as  the  weight  was  by  the  consumption 
w^ch  our  provisions  had  already  undergone,  that  load  was  not  only 
stili  a  heavy  one,  but  was  relatively  to  our  strength,  even  more  trou- 
blesome  than  it  had  hitherto  beeh.  The  dogs  had  become  worse  than 
useless,  from  the  continued  labour  which  they  had  exerted,  and  which 
we  could  not  dimimsh  by  giving  them  an  occasional  rest  for  a  day 
or  two,  since  we  could  not  afford  to  hazard  the  loss  of  that  fine 
weather,  of  which  the  term  was  fast  approaching.   Lest  readers  may 


I' 

. 

_ 

n 

. 

'" 

• 

1* 

•• 

♦ 

• 

, 

L 

J' 

~--  -■•".  » 

'   1» 

■-■  ■-■"I  ■' 

■»     , 

•  ^  . 

« ' 

ft 

J 

Mk 

■ 

Ktt: 

ito '" 

— "• -*w 

"•mm* 

mmm- 

-      |,|„W-^|| 

^^^ji 

^^^^^^ 

TO  THE  JIRCTIO   KEOIOR 8. 


S48 


have  forgotteir  it,  I  ca^ht  perhaps  to  isay  Uiat  the  height  of  summer 
in  these  climates  ren&rs  travelling  as  impracticable  as  does  the 
depth  of  -winter.  It  is  not  that  the  heat  is  more  intolerable  than  the 
cold,  though  it  is  sufficiently  tormenting  and  hurtful,  but  that  the 
frozen  surface  becomes  at  first  so  loose  and  wet  as  to  be  nearly  im- 
passable; while,  as  the  ground  is  laid  bare  on  shore,  and  the  water 
opens  at  sea,  it  becomes  utterly  impossible  to  travel  either  by  land 
or  water,  or  rather,  as  I  might  safely  say,  by  that  which  is  both  or 
neither.  Latte'rly,  indeed,  we  had  but  two  of  these  animals  in  a  ser- 
viceable state,  and  one  of  tli&  poor  creatures  died  at  oiar  pre^nt  en- 
campment. «"     , 

I  here  contrived  to^shoot  two  partridges,  which  not  only  gave  us 
what  was  now  rare,  a  warm  meal, 'but  enabled  us  to  save  our  pro- 
visions; a  fnost  important  matter,  as  we' were  now  situated.  No  one 
will  be  surprised  to  hear  how  often  during  all  those  years  -we  had 
formed  the  jdle  wish  that  men  could  live  without  food;  a  wish,  idle 
and  nonsensical  as  we  felt  it,  tilat  was  ever  intruding,  since  the  neces- 
Mty  of  eating  was  the  ever-recurring  obstacle  to  all  our  lende^vours. 

Three  low  islands,  situated  about  i<sij,  miles  to  the  northvirard  of 
our  present  position,  were  named  Beaufqrt  islands,  after  the  well- 
known  hydrographer  to  the  Admiralty.  A  dense  haze  pr^ejited  us 
from  moving  till  nine  o'clock  on  this  evening,  when,  cojginuing  our 
journey,  W  arrived  at  the  eastern  point  of  an  extensively,  and  held 
along  down  its  eastern  shore,  in  a  south-westerly  direction,  for  two 
hours.  From  di^rent  places,  I  obtained  a  complete  view  of  it,  and 
afterwards  rejoined  the  party  on  the  opposite  side.  The  western  side 
J  being  steep,  we  had  great  difficulty  in  dragging  our  sledges  up  tne 
bank;  but,  having  surmounted  it,  proceeded  across  the  country  in  a 
north-west  direction,  till  we  w^re  compelled,  by  a  thick  fog,  to  halt 
on  the  margin  of  an  extensive  lake,  at  six  in  the  evening.  27/A.  We 
had  gained  but  eight  miles,  owing  to  the  time  expended  in  examining 
ihe  bay  just  mentioned,  to  which  I  gave  the  appellation  of  Parry,  in 
gratitude  to -an  officer  whose  name  is  here  a  Sufficient  distinction. 

The  projecting  point  in  the  centie  of  this  bay  was  named  Stanley, 
from  him  who  is  sufficiently  known  by  his  travels  in  Iceland;  and 
we  here  found  several  stojie  huts  which  appeared/to  have  been  occu- 
pied by  the  natives  not  long  before.  y 

The  weather  being  fine,  we  could  h6^ce  distinguish  the  ciiStt  still 
trending  to  the  north-v^est;  and  thence,  as  for  other  reasons^  I  VvJis 
desirous  to  continue  our  journey  for  another  day  or  two,  in  h(ffis  that 
the  sea  line  would  shortly  take  the  direction  of  point  Tuifnagain, 
which^  couM  we  have  attained  it,  would  have  been  an  objectof  first- 
rate  importance:  since  we  might  thus  have  also  completed  this  line 
of  coast,  and,  here  at  least,  have  jeft  notliiiig  remaining  foit  future 
investigators.  Will  it  be  believed  that  I  was  not  anxious  to  complete 
the  survey  of  the  north  coast  of  America,  that  with  so  important  an 
object  almost  within  my  very  reach,  I  was  not  desirous  to  attain  this 
great  triumph? 


# 


-ts 


TW 


'i 


/ 


844 


SECOND  VOTAOE   OF   DISCOVKST 


But  my  men  were  not  less  so;  and  it  would  be  doing  them  creat 
injustice,  did  I  not  here  record  their  spirit  and  ambition.  For  such 
an  attempt,  it  was  necessary  to  make  a  still  further  reduction  in  the 
allowance  of  provisions;  and  whatever  they  who  are  well  fed  and 
at  ease  may  think,  such  sacrifices  are  not  small  to  him  who  is  already 
under  fed  and  hard  worked,  who  must  exert  himself  every  hour  b^ 
yond  his  strength,  who  feels  that  food  would  enable  him  to  go  through 
his  task,  and  who,  independently  of  this  reasoning,  is  actually  sufler- 
ingtodor  the  instinctive  and  irrepressible  cravings  of  animal  nature. 
Yet  on  mentiomng  my  wishes  to  the  mate  Abemethy,  he  informed 
me  that  the  men  had  intended,  themselves,  to  make  the  same  propokl 
to  me,  and  were  only  waiting  for  the  proper  opportunity  of  trans- 
mitting tl^ir  wishes  through  him.  It  may  be  beUeved  that  I  rejoiced 
m  thi^enerous  feeling  on  their  parts;  and  the  nece3sary  reduction 
was  therefore  immediately  announced. 

Under  this  alteration,  which  enabled  us  to  advance  for  two  days 
longer,  we  set  out  at  eight  in  the  evening,  and,  after  passing  over 
some  small  lakes,  reached  the  sea  at  eleven.  We  then  continued  our 
course  along  the  coast,  in  a  north-westerjy  direction  till  midnight, 
much  annoyed  by  thick  fogs  for  a  time,  but  finally  reaching  a  point, 
at  two  o'clock  on  the  twenty-eighth  of  May,  which  formed  one  side 
of  an  extensive  bay.  This  was  named  after  Dr.  Richardson;  and  as 
It  was  a  convement  spot  for  a  depdt,  since  by  it  we  diould  be  obliged 
to  return,  we  resolved  here  to  disburden  ourselves  of  part  of  our 
encumbrances. 

We  therefore  left  behind  every  thing  which  we  could  spare,  and 
taking  four  days' provision  in  the  sledges,  set  out  at  three  in  the 
morning,  crossing  Richardson's  bay,  and  encamping  at  six.  29th.  De- 
partmg  agam  at  six  in  the  evening,  we  found  the  \md  to  trend  toward 
the  north-west  till  midnight,  when  we  reached  a  point  that  was  then 
named  Cape  Fehx,  after  the  founder  of  our  expedition;  at  the  back 
of  which  was  an  accumulation  of  hummocky  iceilrhis  point  is  the 
south-west  cape  of  the  gulf  of  Boothia,  named  after  the  same  singu- 
•W  generous  and  spirited  individual,  whose  fame  and  deeds  will  go 
down  to  posterity  among  the  first  of  those  whose  characters  and  con- 
duct  have  conferred  honour  on  the  very  name  of  a  British  merchant 

Here  we  found  the  land  trend  to  the  south-west,  while  the  vast 
extent  of  ocean  then  before  our  eyes,  assured  us  that  we  had  at  lenffth 
reached  the  northern  point  of  that  portion  of  the  continent  which  I 
had  already  ascertamed  with  so  much  satisfaction  to  be  trending 
towards  Cape  Tumagain.  The  pack  of  ice  which  had,  in  the  autumn 
of  the  last  year,  been  pressed  against  that  shore,  consisted  of  the 
heaviest  masses  that  I^iad  ever  seen  in  such  a  situation.  With  this, 
the  lighter  floes  had  been  ihrcmn  up,  on  some  parts  of  the  coast,  in 
a  most  extraordinary  and  incredible  manner;  turning  ftp  large  quan- 
tities of  the  shmgle  before  them,  and,  in  some  places,  having  travelled 
as  much  as  half  a  mUe  beyond  the  hmits  of  the  highest  tide-mark. 

Contmuing  hence  to  the  south-westward,  till  about  two  in  the  mom- 


••  *■-•< 


1 


I-*)* 


TO  THB  ARCTIC  ISOIONSr 


'^^"^ 


S45 


ing,  we  arrived  at  the  north  point  of  a  bay,  across  which  we  passed, 
over  much  hummocky  ice,  gaining  its  southern  point  after  two  hcHirs 
of  hard  labour.  Hence  the  coast  continued  to  trend  about  south-west 
by  souths  tiir we  halted  abopt  six  o'clock^  after  a  journey  of  twenty 
miles,  though  with  much  fatigue  to  the  whole  party.  The  latitude 
here  was  69^  46'  19",  and  the  longitude  98°  32'  49". 

The  reflection  that  we  had  now  rounded  the  northernmost  point  of 
this  part  of  \the  continent,  and  that  we  had  found  the  coast  trending 
in  the  desired  direction,  cbuld  not  fail  to  give  us  the  greatest  satisfac- 
tion. The  gi^pat  extent  of  sea  also  which  was  now  seen  from  Cape 
Felix,  free  from  all  appearance  of  land,  serve^to  raise  our  expecta-^ 
tions  as  to  theVfurther  success  of  the  ensuing  season,  when  we  might 
hope,  now  that\  we  knew  what  was  before  us,  to  succeed  entirely  i^ 
completing  the  survey  of  the  north  shore  of  America,  since  we  could 
now  make  our  a^angements  accurately  to  meet  what  was  still  to  be 
done  arid  endi 

Additionally  d^irous,  therefore,  to  be  ouite  sure  of  the  facts  as  far 
as  they  could  here  be  ascertained,  and  mat  I  ^as  not  deceived  by 
some  large  indentation  of  the  coast,  I  devoted  the  day  to  a  still  more 
accurate  examination  of  the  circumstances.  How  extremely  unwill- 
ing I  was  to  retum\at  all,  from  this  point,  with  the  main  object  of 
•  the  expedition  almost,  it  may  be  said,  within  our  reach,  may  Well  be 
unagined;  but  others\must  be  in  the  same  situation  before  they  can 
'  conceive  the  intensity  of  this  regret  and  the  severity  of  this  disap- 
pointment Our  distance  from  Cape  Tumagain  was  now  not  greater 
than  the  space  which  we  had  already  travelled;  as  many  more  spare, 
days  at  our  command!  would  haveT  enabled  us  to  do  all  that  was 
remaining,  to  return  triumphant  to  the.  Victory,  and  to  carry  to  Eng- 
land a  truly  worthy  fruit  of  our  long  and  Jiard-  labours. 

But  thesb  days  were  not  jin  our  power;  for  it  was  not  dayj  of  time/ 
but  of  the  very  means  of  existence  that  were  wanting  to  ^j^fe  had 
brought  twenty-one  days' vprovision  from  the  ship;  and  nSn  more 
than  the  half  was  ah^ad^  \consumed,  notwithstanchng  the  raRuctions 
which  had'  been  made,  without  which  we  should  have  even  stopped 
f^r  short  of  our  present  pouit;  to  reach  which  had  occupied  thirteen 
days,  when  we  had  provid^  ourselves  for  no  more  than  eleven  out- 
wards. There  was  nothing'^ih^efore  left  to  us  but  to  submit;  and 
thus,  however  mortified  at  thelbecessity  of  such  a  resolution,  I  was 
compelled  to  settle  finally  for  our  return  to  the  ship,  after  we  had 
advanced  one  other  day.  By  the  shortest  route  bacK,  our  distance 
from  her  was  computed  at  two  hundred  miles;  and,  even  on  a  very 
scanty  allowance,  we  could  not  reckon  on  provisions  for  morQ  than 
ten  days. 

As  some  of  the  party  were  now  suffering  in  their  feet,  I  took  this 
opportunity  of  giving  them  a  day's  rest,  and  left  our  station,  with 
Abemethv,  at  eight  m  the  eveniiig.  Beuigf  light,^  we  now  traveled 
quickly  along  the  land,  to  the  i^uttt>>westi;rard,  till  midnight,  when, 
from  a  stranded  mass  of  ice  about  fbrty  f§^  high,  we  saw  a  point  of 


t    I 


I, 

I 

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m 


-4-  T'^**--????'*    ?S7(1TF  I  "^  ' 


.'w  >- 


,zr"' 


IffTS**  ;;^^ 


846 


SECOND  VOrAOB  OF  DtSOOVlRT 


/        .' 


:j 


Ian*  bearing  south-west  about  fifteen  miles  distant,  and  could  also 
trace  its  continuity  with  that  in  whicK,we  stood;  the  line  forming  an 
extensive  bay,  occupied  by  very  heavy  packed  ice.  A  little  exami- 
nation, however,  led  us  to  doubt  whether  thie  remote  point  might  not 
be  an  island,  as  there  was  an  intermediate  one  about  eight  miles  off. 
But  to  make  an  actual  examination  was  now  impossible;  since  our 
time  was  nearly  expended,  and  the  ruggedness  of  the.  ice  between 
4hese  points  would  have  demanded  a  very  tedious  and  laborious 
journey. 

We  now  therefore  unfurled  our  iflag  for  the  usual  ceremony,  and  took 
possession  of  what  we  saw  as  far  as  the  distant  point,  while  that  on 
which  we  stood  was  named  Victory  point;  being  the  "  ne  plus  ultra" 
of  our  labour,  as  it  afterwards  proved,  while  it  will  i^main  a  stand> 
ing  record  of  the  exertions  of  that  ship's  crew.  The  point  to  the 
south-west  was  also  named  Cape  Franklin:  and  if  th*t  be  a  name 
which  has  now  been  conferred  on  more  places  than  one,  these 
honours,  not  in  fact  vefy  solid  when  so  widely  shared,  are  beyond 
all  thought  less  than  the  merits  of  that  officer  deserve. 

On  Victory  point  we  erected  a  cairn  of  stones  six  feet  high,  and 
we  enclosed  in  it  a  canister  containing  a  brief  account  of  the  pro- 
ceedings of  thff  expedition  since  its  departure  from  EnglancL  Such 
has  been  the  cusytom,  and  to  that  it  was  our  business  to  conform; 
though  I  must  sayi  that  we  did  hot.entertain  the  most  remote  hope 
that  our  little  histoid  would  ever  meet  an  European's  eye,  even  had  , 
it  escaped  the  accident  of  falling  into  the  hands  of  the  Esquimaux. 
Yet  we  should  have  gone  about  our  work  wifhMSomething  like  hope, 
if  not  confidence,  had  we  then  known  that  we  wer6  reputed  as  lost 
men,  if  even  still  alive,  and  that  our  ancient  and  tried  friend  ^ac]^ 
was  about  to  seek  for  us,  ahd  to  restore  us  once  more  to  society  and 
home.  And  if  it  is  not  impossible  that  the  course  of  his  present  mves- 
tigations  from  Cape  Turnagain  eastward  may  lead  him  to  this  very 
spot,  that  ho  may  find  the  record  and  proof  of  bur  own  "turnagain," 
we  have  known  what  it  is  for  the  wanderer  in  these  soUtudes-to  alight 
upon  such  traces  of  friends  and  of  home,  and  can  almost  envy  him 
the  imagined  happiness;  while  we  shall  rejoice  to  hear  Uiat  he  has 
done  that  in  which  we  failed,  and  perhaps  not  less  than  if  we  had 
ourselves  succeeded  in  completing  this  long  pursued  and  perilous  •' 
work.  '^         .  : 

«  It  was  at  one  in  the  morning  of  the  thirtieth  of  May  that  we 
turned  our  backs  on  this  last  and  furthest  point  of  our  journey,  arri- 
ving at  our  former  encampment  at  six.  We  had  here  found  a  single 
piece  of  drifl  wood,  the  only  one  that  we  had  seen  since  we  lefl  uie 
ship;  but  were  far  better  pleased  to  h^ve  augmented  our  slender 
store  of  provisions  by  a  hare  and ,  two' grouse.  Everything  thus 
united  to  render  this  a  marked  day :  and,  'such  animals  are  we,  in 
spite  of  ourselves,  that  the  rare  occurrence  of  a  hot  supper  and  a 
glass  of  grog  niade  us  for  a  moment  forget  all  our  disappointments, 
and  rather  caused  us  to  feel  pleasure  tiaX  we  were  now  returning 


/. 


-sri 


f 


TO  THE   ABCTIO   RBOIOITS. 


847 


home,  than  regret  that,  in  so  doing,  wc  were  renoUncingSthe  very 
object  of  our  (long  anxiety  and  hard  pursuit. 

The  longitude  of  the  point  on  which  we  were  cncampedVfand 
which  I  named  Point  Cplgruff,  was  determined  by  a  pocket  chfp-   „ 
nometer,  in  preference  tajthat  which  might  have  been  deduced  frdfh 
our  sets  of  lunar  distances,  because  we  found,  on  our  return  to^je 
ship,  that  ite  rate  of  going  had  been  remarkably  steady.    The  bards^ 
trials  whieh  this  watch  underwent,  united  to  its  wonderful  re^ari-  ^ 
ty,  form  a  compliment  t*?  thg  makers,  Parkinson  and  Prodsfiam,     ,. 
which  it  would  be  supcrflupus  tojstate  in  other  terms.       '  -^ 

-/ThoJongitude  of  this  point,  thus  ascertained,  is  Ofii'*  32'  49"  we,st, 
and  the  latitude-  69°  46'  -t9 ".  The  time  of  high  water  was  three 
o'clock,  and  the  rise  and  fall  but  seventeen  inches.  Victory  Point 
lies  in  latitude  69°  37'  49 ",  and  longitude  98°  40'  49 " :  while  of  Point 
Franklin,  as  near  as  those  could  be  determined  from  an  estimated  ; 
distance,  the  latitude  is  96°  31'  13",  and  the  longitude  99°  17'  58". 

At  seven  in  the  evening  we  commenced  our  journey  homeward, 
steering  across  the  country  direct  for  the  point  of  our  depot.  '  We 
were  thus  enabled  to  cut  off  a  considerable  distance ;  and  as  we  thus 
also  contrived  to  cross  several  lakes  where  the  travelling  was  easy, 
we  reached  our  store  at  six  in/the  morning  of  the- thirty-first,  very- 
much  fatigued  however  by  the  exertions  Avhich  We  could  not,  never- 
theless, have  slackened  or  delayed,  as  we  had  nothing  in  the  sl^ape 
of  provisions  left. 

„  The  unlucky  dogs  had  been  unable  to  continue  their  work  for 
some  days  past :  they  were  consequently  unharnessed,  and  one  t>^ 
them  died  in  the  course  of  the  day,  while  another  was  missing  wheh* 
we  rose  at  six  in  the  evening  to  continue  our  journey.  Proceeding, 
we  traced  the  coast  line  between  this  station  and  Port  Parry,  and 
at  length  reached  the  encampment  of  the  twenty-sixth  of  last  month, 
at  four  in  the  morning  of  the  first  of  June.  I  here  completed  the 
examination  of  the  bay,  which  I  had  then  left  unfinished;  and,  after 
this,  we  arrived  at  Point  Young  about  six  in  the  morning  of  the 
second.  A  hrace  of  g^H|:ahd  a  fox  were  here  shot ;  and  we  found  • 
many  circles  of  stonc||TPirking  the  .former  summer  residences  of 
the  Esquimaux. 

Sd.  Setting  out  again  in  the  evtShinj^,  we  arrived  at  Gape  Sabine 
at  three  on  the  following  morning;  and  here  we  obtained  water  to 
drink,  without  the  trouble  of  melting  the  snow.    A  small  pool  was 
open,  and  it  was  the  first  indication  of  a  thaw  which  we  had  seen,. 
At  six  we  reached  Cape  Abemethy ;  and  being  desirous,  if  possible, 
to  survey  the  whole  coast  line  of  the  continent  towards  Nei-tyel-1©,, 
we  proceeded  in  a  south-south-easterly  direction  along  the  west! 
shore  of  the  strait  which  separates  Matty  island  from  the  mainland;  T 
encamping  at  half  past  six.    The  latitude  here  was  69°  30'  42",  and 
the  longitude  96°  8' 26"  west  *         ; 

4th.  A  strong  westerly  breeze  prevented  our  departure  till  nine ' 


...V 


n    - 


A 


848 


S'tCOMD  TOTAOK  Off  DIMOVfeBT 


o'clock,  from  Which  time  we  continued  the  examination, of  the  coast 
to  the  southwardAtill  five ;  having  made  a  journey  of  but  nine  miles 
durjng  this  night\  The.  snow  was  deep,  and  the  party  now  much 
iveakeried^  so  thatVwe  found  it  impossible  tg  travel  faster.  For  some 
time  past,  indeed,  \wo  had 'found  the  usual  march  of  ten  Hours  too 
much  for  the  strength  of  the  men,  reduced  as  their  allowance  of  pro- 
visions now  was;  bm  thfe  palTof4hp  aftf^gernent  gould  not  be  alter- 
ed, though  we  couW  litot  succeed  iflTSurmountiiig  more  than  ten  or 
twelve  miles  in  the  flay/  We,fwere  still  eighty  miles  from  the  ship, 
and  the  remaining  prowsioti#*amounted  onty  to  five  days'  consump- 

»tion;  while  n^c  were  by^noSneans  surq  th|l  we  might  not  meet  with 
many  impediments  in  our  way  back  to  Nei-tyel-le.  This  also  served 
to  alter  my  plans,  o-  at  least  to  tbrow^^^doubt  over  their  ^accom- 
plishment; ^ince  I  §Jiw  that  unless  the  coast  should  assume  an  east-, 
erly  direction  the  mxt  day,  I  must  abandon  the  intention  of  com- 
pleting this  whole  lire  of  shore,  as  I  had  hoped. 

Soon  after  recpmrfiencing  ojlr  journey  in  the  evening,  we  arrived 
at  the  entrance  of  a  ( onsiderablc  inlet,  but  the<haziness  of  the  weather 
prevented  me  from  gaining  a  distinct  view  of  its  termination.  I 
therefore  crossed  to  the  southern  point,  and  thus  obtained  such  a 
sight  of  it  from  a*  hgh  hill,  as  to  trace  the  continuity  of  the  land 
round  a  smaW  bay  to  the  soutli,  and  lifter  wards  joined  the  party  at 
the  eastern  extreme  [point  at  three  in  the  aroniooB,  giving  to  it  the 
name  of  Captain  Wi  H.  Smyth,  of  the  RoyaFNavy.  This  journey 
proved  so  difficult,  ifom  the  quantity  of  hilmmocky  ice  to  be  passed, 
and  the  depth  of  the  snow  in  the  interval,  that  we  suffered  great 
fatigue,  and  two  of  the  dogs  were  left  behind. 

5th.  As  the  coast  still  trended  to  the  south-south-east,  I  determined 
now  to  steer  direct  for  Nei-tyel-le,  as  our  provisions  would  no  longer 
permit  any  further  examination  of  the  shore  in  this  quarter.  We 
therefore  left  Point  Smyth  at  four,  and  directed  our  course  to  tho 
southernmost  of  a  group  of  islets,  nearly  east  of  us,  where  we  arrived 
at  seven  irt-the  morning.  This  islet,  of  which  the  latitude  is  69°  59' 
32";  and  the  Idngitude  95°  45'  50",  is  high,  and  afforded  an  extensive 

,  view  of  the  neighbouring  islands,  with  much  more  of  the  continental 
shore  than  I  had  seen  from  Point  Sn(iyth;  but  a  thin  haze, which  cov- 
ered the  land  prevented  me  from  tracing  it  veiy  distinctly  to' the 
south-eastward.  The  snow  Was  now  separated  into  patches  in  dif- 
ferent places;  an,d  we  found  three  snow  huts,  which  had  been  occu- 
pied iii  the  preceding  winter  by  the  family  of  Kan-ny-yoke,  whose 
route  towards  the  Slip  by  the  Stanley  river  could  be  traced  for  a 
certain  distance,  bysAhe  marks  of  the  sledges.  The  number  of  the 
traces  of  the  Esquimaux  found  about  here,  showed  also  that  this  was 

.one  of  their  steady  places  of  resort;  while,  further  finding  the  land 
marks  in  great  numbers,  as  they  had  been  described  to  us,  I  had  no 
hesitation  in  giving  to  this  islet  the  native  name  of  0-wut-ta,  since 
by  this- it  hlid  been  indicated  to  us. 


/ 


*  V 


%. « 


K 


:> 


TO  TWi  'Motio  iuiaipir«<    [ 


/ 


I     H9 


.  Though  th*  eT«nini  wn  fog|[]r,-the  $»n*$  pUcejsould  be  9«ff«» 
fionilly  Men  through,  the  ha^p,  and  enabled  ui  to^  proceed  «t  fiip«. 
We  travelled  over  very  leve)  ice,  though  vometimea^tiiasing  hum- 
mookt  that  appeared  to  have  been  ic^med  in  the  preceding  jretf. 
At  four  in  Ih^  morning  of  the  »\%,m,  we  obtained  »  tight  of  thf 
high  land  of  Cape  Isabella  r  it'wap/like  that  of  an  oM  friend ;  tnd 
ifHingave  us  a  no  distant  prospect  of  tho  terniipation-of  our  preaept 
toils,  it  excited  our  party  to  exert  themselyee  with  a  spirit  whieh 
had  for  some  time  been  flagging. 

Hailing  for  the  day,  at  six,  in'  latitude  69°  16'  46",  ^d  in  lon- 
gitude 9S°  ia'6",,we  hvid  some  difficulty  in  findijng  Snow  deep 
^enough  to  form  our  burroiv  ;  while  the  hardness pf  the  ice  benepth, 
on  Avhich  we  were  thus  co'hipclled  to  lie,  wm  sufficiently  uncom- 
fortable, contrasted^  with  the  soft  bed  which  the  snow  iutt  formerly 
afforded.  ^       ;  . 

We  set  out  again  on  a  very  fine  evening,  meeting  now, . it  every 
.  fresh  step,  with  well-kYiown  lind,  and  thence  gaining,  hourly,  fn||b 
spirit  to  work  nur  way  onwards  to  our  home:  a  temporsry  <l^ 
not  •  very -comfortable  one,  it  is  true,  but,  where  every  thing  4« 
eonffparative#.ji  home  to  our  hopes  and  feelings,  such,  as  even^ 
¥2ngl2nd  would  be  whenever  it  should  be  our  fate  to  leave  thif 
land  of  cold  and  misery,  and  to  find  that  every  degree  pf  latitude 
was  bringing  us  to  rest  and  peace,  a)|  far  as  there  are  in  ibii-W^rld 
"peae^orrest.     ^/ .-.-^  ■        i^i^f  -        V^  -    '.  " 

Our  path  was  also  goo(fi  and,  undiir  all  these  advantiiges,  we 
proceeded  with  unusual  speed  :  since  there  was  here  no  appearans^ 
of  a  thaw,  nor  the  least  yielding  in  the  crust  of  snow  which  eoverf^ 
the  ice  of  thif  inlet  We  weire  soon  made  aware  of  the  presence  oiT 
Esquimaux  in  our  neighbourhood,  by  tracii^  the  marks  of  a  <Aaa 
dragging  a  Seal ;  and  this  also  was  an  acceptable  cireumstaneeii  sinee 
it  promUfdus  a  supply  of  provisions.  Here,  also,  we  i^vv  gulls* 
together-with  some  seals,  husking  in  the  sun  with  their  ypupg. 
7th,  A  laborious  journey  of  fourteen  miles  at  length  brought  ua  to 
oipr  encampment  for  the  day^  in  latitude  O^**  iQ'  37",  and  longitude 
N;  SI'  56",  near  a  low  poi,bt  formerly  seep  from JPape  Isabella* 
Sevcural  small  islets  at  this  talaee  were  named  Catherine,  and  thf 
point  itself  Margaret.       /     T        ^ 

A  reef  stretches  out  from/  the  northernmost  end  of  Point  Mai> 
pret  nearly  a^mile  tb  the|  south-westfand  the.  heavy  masses  ef 
ice  that  were  grounded  on  it,  indicated  the  force  by  whieh  tbef 
had  been  brought  into  that  position.  From  the  same  point  thf 
ahore  of  the  continent  was  seen  trendipg  away  to  the  SQUth-wealt 
end  could  be  distineily  trajced  to  the  distance  of  seven  or  PJgW 
mitea.  The  extreme  point  in  sight  was  named  Foipt.ScpiW  Thf 
islets,  as  well  as  tKe  mainland,  were  here  formed  of  limestpne,  likf 
'  the  rest  of  the  coast  to  the  Weatward.    W«  Jieiw  sftfir  iiiwlXriWf 

-as    .  .:"    .       ■..    -•  ■■ 


if 


■  ''I 


\ 


-ITTT- 


^1*^«*.*Hfti-s-*  '■«*;'' 


950 


1  ■ 

tecdND  yorJwi  of  discovsbt 


-*4^ 


tracks  of  reindeer,  directed  hence  to  the  high  land  of  the  opposite 
coast,  and  had  the  good  fortune  to  kill  a  fox  and  a  brace  of  grouse. 
c  It  blew  hard  n  eight,  when  we  set  out ;  and  steering  direct  for 
Nei-tyel-ie,  we  passed  within  two  mil^s  of  Cape  Isabella.  On  one  of 
theJslcts  we  found  a  small  pool  of  water,  but^we  afterwards  under- 
stood that  the  thaw  had  commenced  at  the  ship  some  days  earlier. 
After  a  fatiguing  journey,  jve  again  encamped  on  the  ice  at  sevin 
in  the  morning  pfyhe  eighth  of  ifikine,  aboutacTen  miles  from  Nei- 
tyel-le. 

At  noon  it  blew'W  strong  gale ;  andj  for  the  first  time  since  leayr 
ing  the  ship,  I  was  vunable  to  obtain  any  observations  for  latitude. 
It  was  an  occurrence  that  reminded  us  how  highly"  we  had  been 
favoured  on  this  jouraey,  ^y  a  long  tract  of  good  weather. 

Early  in  tht  evening  I  set  off  alone  in  search  of  l^e  Esquimaux, 
whose  footsteps  were  every  where  visible ;  directing  the  party  to 
follow  at  the  usual  hour.  After  tracing  these  marks  for  two  hours, 
I  reached  the  islet  where  I  Had  requested  Captain  ^Ross  to  send 
a  svpply  of  provisions,  but  could  discover  no  mark  of  the  visit  of 
our  own  people.  1  soon,  however,  heard  the  shouts  of  the  Esqui- 
maux: and  It  young^^man  shortly  after  joined  me,  with  a  welcome 
expressive  of  the  highest  satisfaction.  A  set  of  dogs  wad  imme- 
diately harnessed  Vy  them  and  sent  off  to  assist  our  party  in 
coming  up. 

Atayaraktak  now  led  me  to  a  caira  of  stones  where  I  found  a 
note  from  Captain  Ross,  informing  me  that  he  had  there  waited 
for  my.return  till,  the  fourth,  aiid  had  deposited  some  provisions 
for^ur  lise'  at  a  short  distance  from  the  cairn.  ^The  dogs  of  the 
natives  had  however  discovered  the  prize,  and  Mil-luk-ta  had  that 
moriiing  carried  it  home.  I  immediately  therefore  went  to  his 
tent,^  when  his  mother  brought  out  all  that  was  left,  acknowledging 
that  they  had  made  use  of  the  rest.  All  that  we  Ihua  saved  con- 
sisted in  eight  pounds  of.  meat  and  some  bread  ;  hot  most  of  this 
was  unfit  for  use,  though  even  the  little  that  remained  was  very 
acceptable.  They  had  emptied  the  canister  of  r^m  and  lemon- 
juice,'whlch  they  called  very  dirty  water:  and  then  pointed  out  a 
stream  where  we  could  supply  ourselves  with  what  was  clean. 

They  now  presented  us  with  some  fish  that  seemed  to  be  a  small 
species  of  cod,  promising  to  catch  °  more  for  u^^  and  I  therefor^ 
determined  to  halt  the  party  at  this  spot,  for  rest  and  refreshment. 
V/e  encamped  near  them,  in  consequence;  but  having  now  no 
snow,  were  obliged  to  build  a  stone  shelter,  in  which  they  gave  us 
their  assistance.  Of  the  eight  dogs  that  we  had  brought  from  the 
ship,  there  were  now  but  two  remaining;  and.  these  were  so  ex* 
hausted.  that  aoolJber  day's  work  would  probably  have  killed  them 
also.  Yet  this  was  a  selection  from  the  very  best  of  those  which 
the  Esquimaux  possessed :  while  the  whole  of  them  had  become 


L-.\  * 


'''*'**yi'  Vi  ,1  J*"**!**'  * 


TO  THx  Ascno  uoiom. 


m 


now  no 


■J 


anaervieeable  after  eight  days'  trayelling,  so  that  they  Were  cast  off 
from  the  sledges  and  suffered  to  do  as  they  pleased.  It  was  plaib 
that  we  had  overworked  them ;  and  we  now  found  that,  had  it 
indeed  been  possible,  we  ought  to  have  followed  the  system. of  tl|e 
natives,  %vho  never  drive  these  animals  for  more  than  four  days  at, 
a  time,  seldom  so  much,  and  then  give  them  one  or  two  for  reft. 
We  had  travelled,  on  the  contrary,  twenty-three  consecutive  dajrii: 
a  rare  occurrence  in  that  climate,  and  for  which  we  were  indebted 
to  the  very  uncommon  serenity  of  the  weather. 

Our  encampment  was  completed  by  four  in  the  afternoon,  and 
we  at  last  enjoyed  one  good  dinner  out  of  the  fish  which  had  been 
given  to  us.  The  natives,  in  the  mean  time,  collected  round  us  to 
ask  questions  respecting  our  journey  and  our  objects:  matters 
much  more  easy  to  ask  of  than  to  answer ;  but  they  were  above 
atl  desirous  to  know  nthethef  ive  had  been  at  Oo-^gebo-lik.  The 
Strangers  wercr  formally  intrMfced  to  us  by  some  of  our  old  friends: 
and  we  were  afterwards  emr^ined  by  a  history  of  their  own 
adventures  during  our  absence,  in  which  we  could  nM  help  ima- 
gining that  they  were  indulging  some  wit  at  our  expense,  from  the 
bursts  of  laughter  which  followed  these  anecdotes.  Still,  every 
thing  was  in  good  humour ;  nor  could  we  be  otherwise  than  grati> 
fied  by  the  union  of  this  mirth  with  |heir  kindness  towards  us. 
The  length  of  our  beards,  which  had  not  been  shaved  since  we  left 
the  Victory,  was,  among  other  things,  a  source  of  great  amusement: 
while  one  of  them,  a  stranger,  whose  beard  was  of  unusual  size 
among  this  tribe,  claimed  consanguinity  with  us  on  that  ground.   )^ 

This  man,  called  Ow-weh-yoo-ah,  was  a  very  intelligent  ^eraon, 
and  a  great  traveller.  He  told  me  that  he  had  passed  the  wintek' 
wjth  Kan-ny-yoke,  and  immediately  recognised  a  piece  of  deer*i 
horn  which  J  had  found  at  the  huts  in  0-wat-ta  island.  He  also 
^formed  me  that.  Oo-geoo-lik  was  many  days*  iourney  beyond 
that  place ;  there  being^rst  an  inlet  to  be  entered,  after  which  there 
were.three  days'  journey  on  lakes,  across  some  low  land ;  having 
passed  which,  they  again  arrived  at  salt  water,  and  were  obliged  to 
travel  many  days  along  the  sea-coast  His  wife  and  son  were  now 
packing  up  their  tent ;  and  on  our  retiring  to  rest,  they  all  departed, 
informing  us  that  we  «hould  find  them  at  Tar-rio-nit-yoke.  The 
diiy  having  been  very  fine,  I  obUined  observations  at  this  place, 
the  name  of  which  is  E-nook-sha-lig. 

In  the  morning,  two  of  the  women  brought  us  some  seal  blubber 
for  our  fire ;  and  another,  who  had  fished  for  us  while  we  slept, 
presented  us  with  about  thirty  of  the  same  fishes,  being  all  that  she 
had  ti^en.  As  I  was  desirous  to  know  whether  these  presents 
were  tokens  of  gratitude  for  our  former  favours,  or  were  brought 
in  the  hopes  of  a  reward,  I  desired  the  men  not  to  make  any  return 
jior  them.  .  NotwithsUnding  this,  the  women  who  had  brought  th« 


M 
♦, 


<* . 


ii% 


sifSdUtt  tdtiOM  bf  BKCOVkbt 


^i: 


f- 


U 


filtl,  Which  8e«m6d  thilt  tnoii  Vttlued  tHiele^  informed  ai  whoM 
tUirn  it  Would  be  to  hrlnf:  the  next  supply )  ind  thus  in  rotatisiii^^ 
every  three  hour^^  we  received  froin  somb  of  them  a  fe^li "stoelt) 
which  proved  mdch  more  ih^n  we  required.  The  fiah,were  also 
(UrhtihtN)  abtlhdantly>  in  e  jlibiitir  manner,  but  not  with  the  aama 
r«gUl«rity :  even  our  two  dog»  were  not  nedected,  being  rej^ularly 
fed  twice  *  day,  v^hile  they  took  tore  to  keep  otf  their  own,  iekt 
they  ihould  interfere  with  ihone  which  were  most  in  want    For  all 

J  his  we  offered  nothing  in  return,  nor  did  they  seem  once  to  expeot 
I;  so  that  whatever  avarice  or  keenness  in  dealing  we  might-have 
suspected  them  of  on  other  occasions,  we  had  here  ample  proof  of 
their  hospitality,  if  not  of  ttught  to  refined  as  gratitude )  on  the 
Wsnt  of  which  virtue, however,  our  limited  acquaintance  with  them 
could  never  have  enabled  us  to  pronounce. 

Anxious  to  ascertain  where  the  river  which  I  had  discovered  on, 
the  eighth  of  Abril' discharged  its  waters  into  the  isea,  I  prevailed 
on  the  nativp  called  Atayaraktak  to  take  me  to  the  entrance  of  the 
inlet.  Be  informed  me  that  he  had  been  there  some  days  before, 
fof  th<$  purpose  of  making  A  fishing  hole  in  the  ice  |  that  he  would 
willingly  eondUcltncilhUs  &r,  but  that  if  I  chose  to  proceed  further, 
he  must  remiiin  behind  to  fish:  a  reason  which  seemed  abundantly 
ftolid,  since  I  could  not  but  perceive  that  our  consumptiop  had  ma- 
terially reduced  their  store* 

iiliaVfng  the  party,  therefore,  to  work  at  such  repairs  of  varioUl 
irtibles  as  Were  now  wanted,  I  iet  out  with  this  mart,  and  after  trt- 
yelling  about  five  noiles  to  the  touth-south-westWard,.we  arrived  at 
the  entrance  of  an  inlet  somewhat  less  than  a  quarter  of  a  mile  in 
breadth,  but  enlarging  considerably  in  its  progress.  This  strait  ht 
tailed  Ik-ke-rush-yuk,  a  name  derived  from  the  rapidity  with 
which  the  Water  rushek  out  in  the' summer;  the  stream  being 
fre»h  ind  good  for  drinking,  ai  he  said,  though/  at'  this  point, 
where  t  tasted  it,  I  found  it  Very  salt,  t  obtained  no  bounding 
here  tn  six  fathoms,  which  was  the  length  of  my  companion's  line. 

9ihi  While  he  remained  to  fish,  I  proceeded  along  the  left  shoM 
bt  the  ihlet,  about  four  or  five  miles ;  and  ascending  an  elevated 
grt)Und,  gained  a  commanding  View  of  the  inlet,  though  1  could  not 
M  quite  sure  of  the  continuity  of  the  opposed  and  remote  ahorww 
My  Conclusion,  however,  from  the  report,  of  the  Esquimaux,  was, 
that  the  west  branch  of  the  river  in  question  muBt  fall  into  the  ein 
tt>M«wher«  to  the  southwurd  of  Point  Scott.      . 

The  shore  on  which  I  stood  had  gradually  ehthged  ttl  tnndtng 
from  kOuth  b  sttUth^east  by  eaiit ;  and  at  two  or  three  miles  beyond, 
the  intet'tppfeared  to  be  not  more  than  half  a  mile  broad,  whence 
it  turned  more  to  the  north-least :  and  here  I  could  see  the  spot  I 
hud  Visited  on  tny  fir^t  jourhey  to  this  place.  But  as  I  eould  pur^ 
lae  the  pt«8t»nt  «iAtainktion  ho  fuHher,  1  fttumed  to  my  fiahing 


^•/ 


»*W['5 


i«  tllB  AtCf  10  UAtOin. 


iM 


flriend,  whoM  putientw  was  nearly  exltftu»t«d.    He  had  eanght  about 
thirty  Ash,  attd  was  ready  to  go  back  to  hia  party.    We  reached ' 
£Miimk:^&Tli|;  jlt  six  in  the  inprning,  mueh  exhausted,  in  eon* 
HMuenee  of  the  latioribus  watkine  through  the  sod  snovfi  U 

Mr.  Abefnethy  here  itifortheame  that  during  our  Asenee  th^ 
toktlye^  had  given  them  a'feast ;  each  family  ^having  cooked  a  ket-^ 
^leful  of  fish.  They  were  conspquehtly  first  invited  to  one  of  the 
tents,  where  the  contents  of  (he  kettle  having  been  despatched,  the 
noxt  family  treated  them  in  the  same  nwinner,  and  so  on,  in  rota- 
tibo)  till  they  had  run  this  sort  of  eating  gauntlet  through  the 
whole  of  the  five  tents.  It  is  not  surprising  if  they  thus  ate  much 
More  than  they  ought  to  have  done. .  It  was  a  feature  of  somewhat 
reRned  politeness  in  their  entertainers,  and  more  to  be  expected 
from  an  ancient <Spaniard  than  an  Esquimaux,  that  during  the  whole 
timo  of  this  prolonged  meal,  these  really  kind  hosts  continued 
thanking  them  for  the  honour  thus  conferred ;  reminding  them  also 
that  they  had  themselves  been  fed  in  a  similar  manner  at  the  ship, 
in  the  preceding  \tinler,  and  thus  proving  those  grateful  feelings 
Which  we  might  ibrmerly  have  doubted  ;  while  of  this  we  could 
tiow-be  quite  sure,  since,  having  hitherto  made  no  presents  In  re- 
turn,  we  made  none  on  the  present  occasion,  nor  during  the  whole 
of  our  stay  with  them ;  being  desica^is  to  put  off  till  the  very  last 
what  we  intended  to  give,  that  we  might  remove  all  doubts  on  this  . 
subject. 

lOMk  Being  now  much  recruited  by  a  day's  rest  and  all  this 
good  living,  we  set  out  at  ten  in  the  night  of  the  tenth  of  June : 
hevhig  first,  since  we  could  now  entertain  no  doubt  of  their  real 
gratitude,  distributed  among  these  natives  every  thing  wbich  we 
(teuld  spare.  This,  however,  was  fully  returned  to  us  in  an  ample 
Mpply  of  fish ;  which,  in  addition  to  thSb-blubber  that  had  been 
Served  in  superduous  abundance,  fully  provided  Us  for  all  the  re- 
mainder of  our  journey.  Some  of  them  also  accompanied  us  as  fkr 
■a  Pad-Ie^ak,  to  assist  us  in  dragging  our  sledge,  and  to  point  out  to 
ufe  where  their  tents  Would  be  pitched  in  the  summer.  On  finally 
M»paniting,  they  continued  to  cheer  and  thank  us  as  long  as  wei 
were  within  hearing,  and  when  they  could  no  longer  see  us,  owing' 
to  the  irr^lariltes  of  the  ground.  7 

They  had  desired  us  to  follow  the  traCkft  of  a  party  which  Kail 
preceded ;  and  this  instruction  proved  of  essential  service,  in  spite 
of  my  endeavours  to  find  a  shorter  Iroad  for  myself  by  neglecting 
their  advice.  I  had  imagined  that  tney  were  going  to  fish  at  somo 
place  which  would  (take  us  off  the  ihost  direct  road,  and  therefore 
quitted  the  indicated  track,  attempting  to  gain  the  route  by  which 
We  h^  fotpmerly  travelled^  In  thi8,rhowever,  I  was  completely 
iMtned,  by  the  grett  depth  of  the  an  >w  and  water  on  that  lino, 
whoMver I  Alt»ittpted  to  diverge' hito  it;  ao  that  t  was  It  Itngth 


-4- 


VI 


S54 


SIOOHD  TdTAOl  Of  DnOOTMT 


i( 


1     i 
.}     I 


/  '«.? 


1.^- 


glad  to  abtndon,  and  I  believe  fortunate  in  suirendering,  my  own 
opinion,  and  consenting  to  folloW  my  yet  unseen  guides.  ,A.  dense 
fog,,  indeed,  soon  served  to  convince  me  of  the  wisdom  of  this 
choice ;  since,  without  that  track  which  served  us  as  a  compass,  we 
should  have  been  compelled  to  halt  in  the  middle  of  one  of  the 
lakes,  without  being  exactly  certain  where  we  were,  or  What  was 
to  be  done  next. 

1 1 M. .  We  arrived  at  Tar-rio-nit-yoke,  in  latitude  69°  4 1 '  .6",  «nd 
longitude  02°  54'  21",  at  eight  in  the  mofning  of  the  eleventh,  and 
encamped  on  the  south  side  of  the  stream  which  carries  thf^  waters 
of  this  chain  of  lakes  to  the  sea.  The  party  of  Ow-wen-'yoo-ah 
was  here  seen  on  the  opposite  shore ;  and  as  soon  as  they  perceived 
our  arrival,  one  of  them  waded  across  the  streak,  which  was  be- 
tween four  and  five  feet  deep,  to  bring  us  some  fuel.  This  man 
was  our  acquaintance  Ow-w«n-yoo-ah,  and  he  told  me. that  they 
intended  to  remain  there  fishing  for  some  time.  Hq  expressed 
himself  much  disappointed  at  the  absence  of  a  large  party  which  he 
had  expected  to  find  here ;  informing  us^also  that  he  had  gone,-  the 
day  preceding,  in  pursuit  of  some  reindeer  with  their  fawns,  which 
had  been  seen  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Shag-a-voke,  but  without 
success. 

When  we  rose  in  the  evening,  to  pursue  our  journey,  the  whole 
of  Ow-wen-yoo-«h*8  family  came  over  to  us.  His  prOsent  wife  and 
children  belonged  to  another  man  who  was  his  particular  friend, 
and  an  angekok,  to  whom  he  had,  in  the  preceding  autumn,  lent 
his  own  two  wives ;  a  loan  which  is  here  considered  a  peculiar 
.mark  of  friendship,  and,  it  must  be  admitted,  not  very  unreason- 
ably. He  had  expected  the  restoration  of  this  pair  of  spouses  at 
this  time  and  place;  but  the  borrov^fer,  Shoong-ug-u-wuk;  had 
taken  them  with  him  on  the  expedition  after  deer,  and  this  breach 
of  agreement  seemed  to  be  the  chief  cause  of  our  friend's  vexation 
and  disappointment 

If  we  onc«Xupposed  that  this  practice,  for  which  these  people 
may  plead^e  authority  of  ancient  Rome,  was  limited  to  the  na- 
tives of  Repulse  bay,  we  had  subsequent  occasion  to  believe  that  it 
waa  universal  among  this  tribe— the  inhabitants  of  Boothia,  as  we 
must  now  term  this  country.  Others  may  analyze  the  morality  of 
this  fashion  ;  but  one  thing  at  least  appeared  certain,  namely,  that 
the  women  had  no  voice  in  the  matter,  and  were  therefore  consi- 
dered merely  as  property  or  furniture,  conformably  to  the  high 
authority  already  quoted,  and  to  the  practice  of  some  other  nations 
in  slates  of  civilization  rather  more  resembling,  it  must  be  owned, 
that  of  Boothia  than  of  the  Mistress  of  the  world. 

At  this  pl«^e  the  thaw  was  proceeding  with  such  extraordinary 
rapidity,  that  the  stream  which  we  had  crossed  in  the  morning  with 
the  greatest  ease,  was  now  impassable.'    The  torrent  of  water  thuf 


fM, 


.'.'^. 


*■, 


iia,  as  we 


VO  THfi  ABOTtC  WBftI(>M< 


HSf 


di  charged  from  the  lakef  had  aho  covered  the  ice  which  was  to  be 
trivers^,  to  the  depth,  of  several  feet.  ^  Not  a  dry  spot  remained 
aolr  where;  for  there,  beiiig  no  tide  powerful  enough  to  break  up 
th<  frozen  barrier  towards  the  sea,  this  disengaged  water  could  find 
no|  passage  to  it,  except  through  a  few  seal  holes  which  were  quite! 
intiampetent  to  drain  it  o^. 

Had  we  not  already  known  that  such  must  be  the  case  at  this 
season  of  the  year^  we  should  have  had  ample  proof  of  the  necessity 
dif  condensing  the  expedition  from  wKiieh  we  were  now  returning, 
within  the  very  limits  to/which  it  had  been  fixed.  It  is  true  that 
our  confined  stock  of  prbvisions  formed  the  actual  restraint  on  our 
further  advance,  and  thn  our  return  was,  as  I  have  already  shown, 
compulsory,  from  this  cause.  Yet  in  thus  restricting  that  allow* 
ance,  and,  with  it,  the  time  of  our  absence,  we  had  not  acted  im- 
prudently, as  the  facts  now  proved;  whether  or  not  We  are  to  be 
allowed  the  credit  of  having  shown  prudence  and  foresight  in  our 
calculation.  And  however  impossible  it  was  then,  and  even  now 
is,  to  suppress  the  constantly  returning  regret  that  we  did  not 
reach  Cape  Turnagain,  I  cannot  see  how^e  coul^  have  com- 
pleted that  survey  and  returned  in  safety,  or  perhaps  returned 
at  all,  even  though  we  had  been  amply  provided  for  a  longer 
journey.  At  any  rate,  it  was  plain  that  the  arrangements  for 
such  an  expedition  must  lie  very  different  frdm  what  ours  had 
been;  and  that  if  it  was  to  be  undertaken  inihe  following  season, 
a  new  calculation  must  be  made,  and  very  different  expedients 
adopted,  together  with  much  more  force,  to  ensure  any  chance  of 
success. 

Under  the, present  obstructions  we  were  recommeMcd  by  Ow- 
wen-yoo-ah  to  go  round  by  Shag-a-voke,  since  he  considered  that 
the  water  was  too  deep  for  us  to  cross.  1N^  however  would  have 
materially  increased  our  distance  from  the^ship;  and,  as  I  also 
knew  that  the  ice  was  very  bad  at  the  entrance  orthe  inlet  which 
we  should  thus  be  obliged  to  traverse,  1  determined  to  attempt 
the  wading\of  the  bay  at  this  place,  since  the  distance  was  not 
much  moje  than  two  miles.  I  therefore  caused  all  the  holes  in  the 
skin  boat  to  be  repaired;  and  having  stowed  the  luggage  in  it,  we 
proceeded  on  this  amphibious  portion  of  our  journey  at  ten  o'clock. 
The  water  did  not  finally  proVe  more  than  knee  deep,  And  was 
barely  sufficient  to  float  our  boat;  but  we  found  no  difficulty  in 
reaching  the  apposite  shore  by  midnight.  We  should  not  indeed 
have  been  displeased  had  this  watery  tract  extended  mu|h  further; 
since  we  founjd  it  a  very  laborious  task  to  get  over  the  H^h  craggy 
rid^e  of  land'  that  intervened  between  it  and  Too-nood-leed  bay, 
which  was  now  bare  of  anew. 

*  In  this  bay,  to  compensate  for  that  difficulty,  the  travelling  was 
among  the  easiest  that  we  had  found.    The  water/whtch  had  h«re 


l^ 


i 


'•{ 


^ 


V  ■ 


Ti 


f/ 


IT 


n 


■i  ,■ 


1 

II 


■'X 


•If 


f^ 


SIOQVO  T0r4«ll  •?  9|i«0WB7 


.*■..■ 


alto  ovcrfl9W0d  the  luvface,  had  fliikoIy«((4  tha  snow,  and  afterward* 
•a4!a|M>d  thratixh  the  fistureik  beneath,  Whieh  had  been  produced  by 
the  risef  nd  fall  of  the  tide. '  We|fo|iihd,  therefore,  a  amooth  plain  of. 
poliahecl  ice;  anfjt  on  this  we  proeeeded  Y'itl^  Sre*^  expedition,  not 
without  wiahini^;  that  ^preSj|»W  of  Jtw  territory  which  we  had 
passed,  both  outward^  and  oVoiir  return,  had  been  of  the  ssme 
character.  I  •  , 

The  river  Ant^ma-look-took  now  appeared  much  more  extensive 
thap  I  had  formerly  supposed  it  to  be;  and,  from  the  number  of 
landmarks  near  it,  together  with  similarly  numerous  eaohtf  on  its 
banks,  I  concluded  that  it  was  a  fishing  atatioo  of  considerable  im- 
portaiica  to  the  natives. 

Al^  eight  in  the  evening  of^the  twelfth  we  halted,  in  latitude 
69°  48'  10",  and  loni^ittide  9s|  ^3'  9",  on  a  small/rocky  islet,  much 
fatigued,  att^ehie%  -by  the  Umonr  of  wading.  /Here  we  found  in 
^ti'Kny  \\\tiWoi^i/^itiyd^^  the  first  that  we  hid 

seen  for  thif^jpirirtg;  th<>t^  we  afterwards  found  that  it  had  ep- 
peered  muplTe'arii^  in  the  Vicinity  of  the  ship. 

It  was  neijr  midnight  before  ^^e  again  got  into  inotion;  at  first 
finding  th0  iway  extremely  rough,  from  the  intermixture  of  hum'- 
mocks  of  ice  and  deep  pools  half  frozen,  but  proceeding  with  much 
more  ease  after  reaching  the  mainland,  while  feeling  additiontl 
energy  and  atrength  af  we  diminished  our  distance  from  the  ship. 

I3M.  It  was  at  seven  in  the  morning  when  we  came  in  eight  of 
her;  when  1  issued  the  last  remaining  dram  te  the  party,  and,  hoist- 
ing our  flag,  we  arrived  on  board  at  eight,  all  in  good  health,  though 
much  reduced  in  appearance. 

'■■      .i     '■■-■..     "  »^    fil^'  '  \  .        ■■ 


» 


m^ 


«ej)fi^'"i*"  m.. 


7!S^„t0m'  VTf»iagm«. 


TO  Til  AiOTIO  UaXQIf. 


m 


'\ 


CHAPTER  XXX. 


Continuation  if  the  Jourhai-rSumfnary  of  the  MtntC 


/ 


o 


/tiMe  \ith.  A  sTaoNG  wevterly  breeze  made  tl^e  weather  cold,  and 
the  thermometer  fell  to  33°,.  with  showern  of  snow.  It  did  not  pre- 
vent our  work  from  going  on,  neitheron  thilt  nor  the  following  day, 
when  it  fell  in  mueh  greater  abundance.  It  only  remained  on  the 
ice,  however;  on  the  land  it  soon  melted.  UriPthe,  next,  it  wasi 
much  the  same;  and  we  began  therefore  ttj^  expect  a' later  summerl 
than  we  hadi,at  first  anticipated,  sfnce  no  visible  alteration  hiid' 
taken  place  in  the  ice  ii)r  some  days.  The  thercnprneter  during 
these  latter  days  wai^  rather  under  the  freezing  point  »t  night,  land 
the  highest  heat  of  the  day,  being  on  tne  fifteenth,  was  5o  . 

On  the  seventeenth  the  iveather  looked  better  and  more  settled, 
but  it  was  not  warm.  Two  natives  came,  bringing  a  couple  pf 
aealn;  a  very  welcome  supply,  with  the  large  pack  of  dogs  that  we 
had  to  feed.  They  had  been  successful  at  the  Comptroller's  islands. 
After  rewarding  them  in  the  usual  manner,  I  presented  Ikmallik 
with  a  sovereign  to  wear  round  his  neck,  as  being  the  picture  of 
our  great  chief;  desiring  that  he  would  preserve  it,  and  show  it  to 
any  European  he  might  hereafter  see.  It  was  no^  likely  to  b(^ 
spent,  whatever  else  might  happen;  but  if  it  was  too  valuable  » 
gift  intrinsically,  for  one  who  was  as  ignorant  of  its  uses  as  incai^ 
pabfe  of  apply mg  them  to  a  purpose,  he  would  have  been  greatly 
astonished  could  he  have  exchanged  it  for  its  English  ValuB<in  tin^- 
ber  and  iron,  in  fish-hooks,  axes,  knives,  and  needles.  Nor  must 
I  forget  that  the  Utro  guides  took  leai^[^  Us,  with  much  grat^dte 
for  the  presents  they  received  and  t(#.]undne$8  which  they  had 
expfrienced;  hoping^soon  to  see  us  again.  We  learned  from  lUfhail- 
lik,  that  all  the  rest  Had  gone  to  the  southward,  except  his  ovi^ii  fa- 
mily and  another,  which  were  to  remain  some  time  in -Comptrol- 
ler'* islands.  He  gave  us  the  native  names  of  the  birds  which  had' 
been  ahot;  theae  being  mimics  of  the  cries  of 'the  several  aiiimiU^ 
•ildtb«y«U(i«parte4nn49raprom>««tot0«usapio.  / 
84  / 


I 


,  ■.■■    * 


ftis 


SKCOMD  VOTAM  OV  DnoOTSKT. 


If 


¥i- 


H 


>  .' 


18/A.  The  weattJer  was  fihe,  but  it  Troze  both  in  the  morning 
and  the  evening.  The  work  went  on,  and  the  boats  were  cleared 
of  snow.  Some  men  now  complained  of  rheumatism,  and  were 
relieved  by.  the  steam  bath. 

19/A.    The  Saturday  began  cold;  and,  in  the  course  of  the  day,  , 
it  rained  heavily.    Fortunately,  the  calking  of  the  deck  had  beeh'^. 
finished,  S9  that  it  did  not  interfere  with  the  comfort  of  the  men 
below. 

£0M.  The  weather  seemed  to  have  taken  a  sudden  turn  on  Sun-..^ 
day;  the  rain  having  ceased  in  the  night,  and  the  air  being  mild  and 
serene,  while  the  thermometer  rose,  in  the  middle  of  the  day,  to 
62°,  being  at  60°  for  more  than  seven  hours.  Much  of  the  snow 
was  consequently  disapffi^aring,  and  the  torrents  again  running  down 
the  hills.  After  church,  the  men  having  been  sent  to  (heir  walk 
on  shore,  brought  back  a  line  specimen  of  the  great  northern  diver, 
and  reported  that  they  had  seen  many  hares  and  much  wild  fowl. 
Some  insects  were  also  collected,  and  much  of  the  ice  was  broken 
up  r^nd  the  ship. 

&lst.  Monday  was  misty,  with  small  rainj  the  thaw  continuing 
though  it  was  less  warm.  A  diver  was  again  shot,  together  with  a 
king  and  J  queen  duck.  Preparations  were  made  for  a  travelling 
party  to  trace  the  line  of  cpast  tc;  the  south-eastward,  and  the  men 
were  employed  within  the  jship.; 

On  the  next  day,  the  w:«ather  was  foggy  till  the  evening,  iloder 
a  north-east  wind;  when  If  beisame  clear.  Thejarboard  leeboard 
was  fixed,  and  the  preparations  for  the  travelling^party  completed, 
should  the  weather  permit  of  moving  on 'the  following  day. 

23d.  It  proved  line.  The  sledge  and  the  skin  boat  were  got 
ready,  and  the  provisions  stQwcd  away  in  them  after  breakfast — 
The  chief  mate,  with  ten  men,  went  ofi*  to  draw  it  ten  miles  in  ad- 
vance, returning  at  eight  in  the  evening.  At  nine.  Commander 
Ross  and  four  men  left  the  ship,  with  the  dogs;  with  the  intention 
of  proceeding  as  soon  as  they  had  reached  the  deposited  sledge. — 
The  returned  party  had  killed  some  ducks,  and  seen  reindeer.  These 
animals  had  been  gradually  passing  in  increased  numbers;  since  we 
had  latterly  seen  many,  though,  for  so  lung  a  time,  we  had  found 
nothing  but  their  tracks. 

The  morning  of  the  twenty-fourth  was  fine,  but  there  were  rain 
and  snow  about  noon,  continuing  till  midnight;  it  was  not,  cer- 
tainly, a  ttiidsummer  day  in  effect,  whatever  it  might  be  in  the 
calendar;  and  even  if  (he  usages  of  St.  John's  dav  had  penetrated 
to  these  lands,  there  was  as  little  temptation  to  light  bonfires  as 
there  was  an  utter  dearth  of  materials  for  constructing  them.  In 
consequence,  however,  of  the  thaw,  a  considerable  quantity  of  water 
flowed  from  the  decks  into  the  hold,  being  produced  from  the  snow 
which  still  remained  on  the  sides  of  the  ship;  and  this  we  were  oblig* 


.»  ^ 


^ 


TO  THB  ABOTIO  mxaiOHS. 


ffi9 


ed  to  drive  odt  by  the  foreiog  pump,  u  the  others  were  not  yet 
clear  of  ice. 

23M.  The  surfceon,  who  had  escorted  ihe  party,  returned  early 
in  the  morning  with  a  brent  goose;  and  the  first  swan  of  the  season 
was  seen.  At  this  time  flights  of  ducks  began  to  pass,  in  consider- 
able numbers. 

The  snow  still  fell,  occasionally,  though  it  was  mild  ;  and  the  day 
ended  in  a  fir^  evening.  The  men  were  employed  in  cutting  the 
ice  on  the  UrWard  side  of  the  ship,  to  allow  her  to  right  herself ;  in 
consequence  of  wliicb,  she  rose  fourteen  inches.  The  thermometer 
at  night  was  91". 

86/A.  On  the  Saturday,  at  noon,  it  was  62°  ;  such  were  the  ex- 
tremes of  day  and  night  in  this  climate,  and  at  midsummer;  as,  to 
-confirm  this,  it  fell  again  to  the  freezing  point  at  night.  It  is  the 
alternate  reign  of  the  sun  and  of  the  accumulated  ice.  Whatever 
the  former  efiecis  cannot  last,  and  it  ceases  as  soon  as  the  great 
source  of  heat  becomes  depressed  in  its  career.  I  took  an  oppor-r 
tuniiy  of  setting  the  net  where  a  stream  entered  the  nearest  lake, 
but  caught  no  fish  :  we  did  not  even  see  any.  An  egg  of  a  goose 
was  found,  proving  that  they  breed  here  ;  and  many  of  these  birds 
were  se*n,  while  one  was  killed.  The  ship  was,  at  length,  nearly 
Upright.  m 

27th.  Nothing  worthy  of  note  occurred  on  Sunday.  The  men, 
however,  were  not  forbidden  to  shoot,  in  their  usual  walk  alter  the 
service  of  this  day  ;  and  their  sport  brought  us  five  ducks  and  a 
diver. 

28/A.  It  was  snowy,  and  became  so  far  cold,  that  the  night 
temperature  sank  to  the  freezing  point:  in  the  course  of  the  day 
We  finished  our  preparations  for  the  projected  journey  of  the  fol- 
lowing. 

S9M.  In  the  morning  the  snow  threatened  interruption*:  but, 
'  clearing  at  noon,  a  party  of  seven  men  went  off  in  advan<*^"  with 
the  sledge,  a  boat,  and  our  provisions  and  packages :  the  sUpply 
being  for  six  days,  and  the  place  of  their  halt  the  north-west  inlet; 
At  seven,  I  followed,  with  the  surgeon  and  three  men,  and  found 
one  of  the  parly  returning  with  a  report  that  the  sledge  had  been 
broken.  He  had  been  sent  back  for  a  new  one,  attended  by  three 
men  and  a  dog  :  they  had  not  succeeded  in  reaching  further  than 
six  miles,  being  a  mile  short  of  the  northern  huts,  which  formed 
the^pointed  spot.  But  this  did  not  prevent  our  prbceeding  :  our 
principal  object  being  to  catch  fish,  for  which  we  had  provided 
oursiilves  with  the  necessary  materials. 

SOth.  To  complete  the  journal  of  this  month,  I  need  only  say 
that  it  snowed  on  the  last  day,  with  the  same  low  temperature  at 
night,  and  a  fresh  breeze ;  and  I  may  therefore  give  the  usual  aam- 
mary,  that  I  may  not  interrupt  the^accoant  of  our  journey. 


'■  :'J 


/I 


"■t 


S*" 


M  *- 


noovD  ToyAtts  o»  bucotmt 

It  ii  sfiireeljr  ncedrul  to  My,  thit  it  hid  bMit  ■  ▼ei^jdnfiToanble 
mpntli  to  our  prospects  of  proceeding  it  in-eirly  period  in  the  ihip. 
At  PortBowen,  two  hundred  mile* -further  northf  there  hid  been 
nin  18  eirijr  tt  the  seventh  of  the  month,  while  it  hid  not  ippeircd 
vhere  till  the  nineteenth,  and  wis  followed,  moreover,  by  frost  and 
snow,  so  as  to  throw  back  every  thlnjc  to  tK^  sime  condition  aa  in 
the  earlier  daya  of  June.  In  many  places,  indeed,  the  ice  hsd  be* 
edme  much  thinner :  but  it  was  still  very  thick  and  compact 

The  weather,  however,  had  been  favourable  for  the  exploring 
parties.  Commander  Ross  had  not  been  at  all  interrupte4  in  hia 
travelling,  and  his  reports  were  favourable :  while,  among  other 

~  things,  the  limits  of  our  future  endeavours  were  much  narrowed  by 
the  result  of  this  expedition. 
Our  intercourse  with  the  natives  had  much  decreaaed.  In  conse-' 

'  quenee  of  their  removal ;  but,  whenever  it  occurred,  we  were  oh 
terms  ofgreater  confidence  thkn  even  They  had  been  unsuccessful 
in  hunting,  and  had  therefore  been  unable  to  bring  us  soy  aupplies; 
but  whenever  they  Were  in  want,  and  we  could  furnish  them  with 
food,  we  did  so — receivings  in  return  every  mark  of  gratitude  and 
thankfulness.  In  reality,  with  excepiion'of  the  adventure  eonae- 
duenton  the  boy'a  death,  in,  which  their  mistake  was  afterwards 
iiilly  rectified  and  atoned  for,  and  excepting  also  some  sufficiently 
pardonable  and  not  very  serious  pilfering,  we  found  every  reason 
to  be  pleased  with  the  character  and  conduct  ofthia  tribe,  not  only 
to  us,  but  towarda  each  otfier.  I  have  ghren  aeveril  inatancea  of  their 
kindness,  in  their  dragging,  the  helpless  on  sledges,  and  the  cam  of 
their  children  p  and  if  tj^ey  seemed  an  affectionate  jnd  goo(f-tem- 
pered  people,  so  did  they  appear  to  live  together  in  perfect  har- 
mony, and  to  be  free  of  selfishness,  even  on  the4^ubject  of  that  great 
ariicl^,  food,  which  conatiiutes  the  whole,  it  may  almost  be  said,  of - 
a  savage's  enjoyments^  1  had  no  reason  to  suppose  that  I  had  pre- 
matui^ly  formed  this  favourable  opiniion,  though  it  is  so  much  at 
variance  with^tNtat  has  been  reported  of  other  tribes  of  the  same 
people.  It  remained  for  time  to  dete^ine  what  the  exact  truth 
WM. 

The  alterations  and  fittings  in  the  ship  had  made  ao  much  pro- 
gress, that  it  was  plain  we  should  be  ready  long  before  it  could 
serve  any  purpose.  Though  the  health  of  the  crew  wu  generally 
good,  three  Or  four  continued  to  show  sXielra  proneness  to  scurvy  that 
We  were  obliged  to  regulate  iheir  diet  ami  treatment  accordingly. 
They  had  been'lnueh  harassed  and  fatigued'  during  thia  pefiodi  but 
bore  the^  jloils  cheerfully.  »         -  ♦         ».;'   - 

^   The  obHervaiions  and  surveys  had  b«en  goifif  on,  ineludingmany 

^n  the  dip  and  variatidn  of  the  t^tte^le*  The  ^igheat  temperature 
bffhe  month  had  been  ei'  plitsjinjllhe  loweit  B6*>^themcan  was 
S6°,  76<^ }  i  need  not  repMt  the  MttipariMiiM  with  iKbae  of  the  other 
expeditions  in  the  same  month. 


( 
ma 
to 
lov 
hot 
poi 
coi 


"■t 


TO  m  AacTid  aioxoiTi. 


Mt 


Our  sport  wks  but  indifferent — yet  some  good  apeeimens  of  anU 
mats  were  procured.  The  perpetual  hunting  of  the  natires  aeemed 
to  prevent  the  deer,  together  with  the  animals  of  prey  which  fol- 
lowed on  their  traces,  from  resting  for  any  time  in  this  neighbour* 
hood ;  while  the  same  cause,  doubtless,  drove  the  musk  oxen,  and 
possibly  also  the  hares,  from  this, vicinity,  to  places  where  they 
could  find  greater  security  in  the  solitude  of  these  deserts. 


■■.^■ 


<- 


^r 


y 


ueh  pro: 
it  could 

.  ■.  c 

■+■■      .     ^      ■  ■ 

:  r  "^".f     '   . , 

enerally ' 
rvythat 
rdingiy. 
iod,  but 

' 

^ 

i 

-1,    ^ 

*  .           *  " 

• 

■  • 

/ 

' 

' 

igmany 

w 

-—-  =-■-----■ 

u;:'-':  ■:;'v\''  "^''v- vr-.;^ ' . ., 

'.  '«*-^ 

tan  was 
toother 

f  iSv'i 

V 

.     . 

% 

.      f 

( 

• 

I 

\                                 ,-..... 

. 

-    -               '"   -     '   '                     -     .  ,.':.                     • 

> 

*    ■ 

■'      ■    ',j^            .  '.   :■ 

.     i 

:■-  < 

4,  ■ 

,■'■,•      --■%  , 

«'-^ 

- 

i    i 

.i 


« 


neOITD  TOTAOB  OF  DISOOTBSY 


<■?« ... 

«4^ 


CHAPTER  XXXI. 


JSn  Expedi/ionio  fiah  for  t Jit  Supply  ofFishJbrtheCreio,  i«nr  * 
'dertaktn  by  myse/f  and  party— Mtrrativf  arid  return. 


(■•«■,  •  ■ 


June20th.  Having  proceeded  towards  the^lace  where  the  sledge 
had  been  appointed,  we  came  suddenly  on  two  large  white  bears,  be- 
fore we  had  reached  the  end  ofthe  lake— >-but  as  our  guns  were  loaded 
with  small,  shot  only;  we  were  compelled  to  avoid  them.  It  is  not  a 
sare  animal  to  projoke  unarmed.  We  met,  after  this,  the  men  re- 
turning with  theigjllken  sledge,  and  afterwards  arrived  atthe  boat 
where  the  amn^lifvion  and  fishing  tackle  had  been  deposited.  We 
then  proceeded-  over  the  ice,  which  was  very  full  of  cracks  and 
boles.  ' 

90th.  ■  Early  in  the  morning,  we  rea'ched  the  point  foirming  the 
entrance  of  the  inlet,  which  we  believed  to  be  the  estuary  of  the 
river  in  which  we  had  proposed  to  fish— but  were  obliged  to  pitch 
the  teot,  as  it  beg^n  to  snow  heavily,  with  a  strong  northerl3reale. 
Being  in  a  sheltered  spot,  we  were,  however,  enabled  to  coolTour 
dinners  and  go  to  rest  We  had  killed  two  ducks  and  a  plover,  and 
seen  some  reindeer.  The  land  at  this  place  was  rugged,  clear  of 
anow^  and  divested  of  all  vegetation.  Me  found  the  ice  in  many 
places' dangerously  thin,  independen''"^ 
wide  cracks.  » ^^ 
After  dinner,  iffive  in  the  eveni 

which  turned  to  the  north-east-^tn .„,>.^.  ...»  .^w  .„.  ».,, 

miles,  till  it  divided  into  two  bsanches ;  one  leading  to  the  norths 
west,  and  the  other  north-north-east.  We  fdjowed  the  latter  a 
mile,  and  arrived  at  its  termination.*  Here  we  ascended  a  high 
mountain;  where  we  saw  that  the  north-west  branch -took  a  north- 
^SSlSf'y  direction,  as  if  it  was  about  to  join  the  gre^t  inlet  to  the 
>  *i*i»**^wtrd^  Cmm  whichits  visible  end  cquld  not  be  more  than  a 


?  ' 


large  holes^and 

led  up^f^nnlet, 
the  ice  for  five 


,i*' 


TO  fjHi  ABono  iiroioira. 


^46 


8      \ 


We  paw  no  river  of  finv  importMce,  though  we  had  expected 
one — there  was  only  a  small  lake  ;  but  we  found  on  its  margin  some 
remains  of  snow  huts.     On  its  banks,  the  ganra,  such  as  it  was, 
proyed  somewhat  abundant  for  g  country  so  barren  in  this  respect 
as  it  generally  had  been  found,  and  our  sportr^g  produced  us  some 
ducks -and- gulls, 'all  equally /icceptable  to  ihom  whose  variety  of 
L    4  food  was  for  the  most  part  very  disagreeably  eonAned.    The  hill 
y,  ^bounding  the.  other  inlet  was,  like  those  we  had  ascended,  rugged 
nL^Mind  bare,  and  there  was  a  narrow  channel  of  water  along  its  shore, 
I  ^j[  extending  all  the^  way  up,  excepting  where  two  points  project^dU 
Many  showers  of  rain  fell  during  this  walk,  and  the  weather  at 
length  became  so^ick  and  misty,  that  all  further  view  of  the  inte-      ~ 
rior  land  was  unattainable. 
July  lat.  Wo  returned  about  two  in  the  morning,  for  the  purpog^ 
^f  resting  till  six,  during  which  time  Tt  blew  a  gale  fron  the  north- " 
-ward.     After  this,  I  set  off,  with  the  8urgeon.jHMH>ne  man,  to  ex- 
amine the  coast' to  the  westjrinsearch  of  arj^r ;  and  passing  along 
the  shore,  came  to  an  island  in  the-aouth^the  inlet,  an'd  efterWards° 
to  two  points,  the  bays 'near  which  received  nothing  larger  than-^ 
small  ilvulet.     We  then  passed  two  more  points  on  the  right,  and     -. 
three  islets  on  the  left;  finally  arrnring  at  the  arm  of  Jhftsea  and 
that  mouth  of  a  river  which  were  formerly  examined  by  Gsroman- 
der  Ross.     Finding  it  still  frozen,  we  proceeded  to  the  north  shore, 
ascending  the  rising  ground  as  we  went  on  ;  and  at  length,  at  the 
distance  of  three  miles,  meeting  two  smalt  lakes.  .  '' 

Thence  I  ascended  a  mile,  leaving  my  companions,  lest'"!  should 
fatigue  them ;  and,  crossing  a  lake  proceeded  to  the  summit  of  the 
highest  mountain.     Hence  I  saw  the  termination  of  the  nortiiern. 
branch  of  the  inlet  which  J  had  observed  yesterday,  and  beyond.it  a 
necl(  of  land  dividing  it  from  the  one  further  to  the  northward,  which  ^>sl 
was  also  distinctly  sreivabout  seven  miles  distant     I  returned  -idker 
two'  ^our5,  and,  joining  my  companions',  we  arrived  at  our  tent* 

While  resting  near  it,  a  man  was  perceived  crossing  the  bay,  on      ' 
which  ^0  fired  a  ehot,  to  attract  his  attention.^    He  seemed  at  lint 
alarmed,  but  .at  last  stood  still  to  look  a|  us,  when  the  siirgeon  west  * 
to  meet  him,  thrcping  away  his  gun,  as  the  signal  of  friendship. 
On  this  he  also  threw  awjy  his  bow  and  arrows  and  spear,  whi 
approaching  with  the  usudi  salutation,  he  was  discovered  to  be  oi 
friend  Awack.     I  then  pe^rsuaded  him  to  accompany  us  to  our  ten 

giving  him  the  gun  to  carry,  in  hopes  of  thus  better  establishii^  :_.  j 

confidence  among  us.     We  had  walked  thirteen  hours,  and  were  .  '      v| 

glad  to  find  a  dinner,  in  which  ^e  nude  our  friend  partake.     He 
informed  us  that  his  lindc  Ikmallil|'$  party  were  at  a  river  thaj^^ 
ejiin'ed  the  bay  about  ten  utiles  off ;  and  thither  v^e  determined"1«t* 
go,  to  his  great  satisfaction.  ^ 

Our  tent  «nd  baggage  were  hnmediately  packed  on  the  aledge^ 


r^ 


V. 


.,- .  -to—" 


-AJ^.wSISs-J 


:'\im' 


SXO^tll}  tOTAOl  (Dr  BIlOOTaBT 


1/v 


*3  \' 


;  with  thftvlittlb  boat  and  the  net,  and  we  set  oflT  with  freah  ipirit, 
"'""^'"'afl^raltiiUQdr  and  points^  till  we  came  to  oneof  thow 


•f-. 


,p}^M%l    indunda    which   I    formevly    described;    on    rounding 
which,  we  saw  the  river,  and  the  huts  of  the  nativea  about  a  milo 
•way  ffn  the  norllKbank.    A|  our  guide's  desire,  we  announetdour 
T  apprdach  by  firing'r^un,  which  produced  a  general  acelamatioQ. 
Leaving  the  sledge  behind,  I  was  soon  at  the  village,  and  wta 
iinceived  with  open  arms  by  our  old  friend  Ikmailik.  -  » 

He  informed  us  that  the  season  for  fishing  in  the  river  waa  ended* 
and  that  thpy  were  about  to  set  off  for  the  iak«at  but' that  they 
would  Btay  another  day,  if  we  would  remain  with  them.  Our  sledgi 
then  arriving,  we  erected  our  tent,  and  they  began  to  replace  theira^ 
which  had  been  taken  down ;  the  number  of  familiea  being  fourl 
They  were  highly  delighted  when  I  displayed  the  flag  above. 
Ikmallik's  tent  instead  of  our  own.  We  were  fhen  presented >nth 
fish,  including  two,  fine  salmon,  whirh  we  proceeded  to  dress  id 
our  cooking  apparatus :  a  process  that  excited  ^reat. attention,  from 
the  quickness  with  which  it  boiled  one  of  these  fishes  and  fried 
the  other. 

They  had  proposed  to  dine  with  us,  and  of  course  we  could  not 
refuse  ;  ihough  perplexedto  know  how  to  cook  for  so  largea  party 
with  ourlimited  kitchen.  The  whole  twelve  were,  however,  invited 
into  the  lent ;  and,  with  our  own  party  of  five,  it  was  more  than 
auffieiently  filled.  We  were  soon  relieved  from  all  our  anxiety  about 
cookery,  finding  that  they  preferred  their  fish  raw.  Our  two 
dinners,  therefore,  made  a  parallel  progress  :  in  time,  however,  not 
in  quantity :  since,  while  we  f6und  that  one  salmon,  and  half  of 
another,  was  more  than  enough  for  all  of  us  English,  these  vora* 
cioua  animals  had  devoured  two  each.  At  this  rate  of  feeding,  H  ia 
not  wonderful  that  their  whole  time  is  occupied  in  procuring  food : 
each  man  had  eaten  fourteen  pounds  of  this  raw  salmtin,  and  it 
was  probably  but  a  luncheon  after  all,  or  a  superfluous  meli  for 
the  sake  of  out*  iiociety.  Nor  is  it  wonderful  that  they  so  often 
aufi*er  from  famine :  under  a  more  economical  division  of  their  food, 
with  a  little  consideration  for  to-morrow»  the  same  district  might 
maintain  double  the  number,  and  with  scarcely  the  hazard  of  want  • 
The  glutton  bear,  scandalized  as  it  may  be  by  its  name,  might  evi^n 
lie  deemed  a  creature  of  moderate  appetite  in  the  compariaon :  with 
their  human  reason  in  addition,  these  people,  could  they  ^waya 
eommand  the  th'eans,  would  doubtless  outrival  a  glutton  andlboa 
eoostridtor  together. 

^Whether  Captain  Cochrane'(i>-extravagant  accounta  be  true  or 
not,  the  voracity  of  the  northern  aavages,  on  both  continents,  is 
auflSeiently  known.  Bat  it  ia  a  question  that  hnnot  been  exa« 
mined  as  it/oiight ;  and  my  medical  knowledge  ia  far  too  email  Ut 
allow  mt  to  aay  much  on  a  subject  on  which  I  cannot  find  that  either 


'  ■- ^i*r».  T^ 


•4* 


'Vp-4wt  Mmd>H»  mtmrnmrn 


W, 


Prath  ipirit, 
le  of  thow 
rounding 
bout  a  milo 
lounecd  our 
celamation. 
;e,  and  wm 

was  ondcdf 
It' that  thajr 
Our  sledgi^ 
tiaee  theira^ 
being  fouri 
flag  above. 
leniedjMtb 
to  drcas  in 
ntion,  from 
a  and  fried 

B  could  not 
argeapartjr 
irer,  invited 

more  than 
xicty  about 
Our  two 
}wever,  not 
md  half  of 
these  vora* 
leding,  it  ia 
uringfood: 
mn,  and  it 
IS  meH  for 
sy  80  often 

their  food, 
trict  might 
rd  of  want  • 
might  evi^n 
iaon:  with 
hey  iljwaya 
I  and'i  boa 

be  true  or 
ntinenta,  is 

been  exa> 
DO  email  t« 

that  either 


jlilldlnn  trayellaw  or  pl^idenahate  wrllteiUnf^^^thtnK  ^TMpOil* 
•tee,  These  northern.  stonia«hs  have  been  supposed  kapeHiA^ 
powerful ;  but  the  Bhshntan  of  sonthern  Africi  has  a  digestion  ^ 
the  same  entN^gy^  and  can  r<((ially  bear  the  aHemaiivits  of  grosf 
feveess  and  want^  It  msy  be  true  al*Of  lo  a  certain  aiitent  it  teitfli 
that  the  seiNiriiy  of  these  tlimates  demands  mohiah^^nt  food'thiH. 
irnm  mei«  ttnipu«(er *»d^'thai^4»^  pai4i«ttla»^  oil^)<«io4 4» 
I  had  oeea!«ion  fornfeily  to  remsrk.     But  ihe  inhehitinM  flf  the 

•  elpine  regiona  of  sduthem  Rurnpe  demand  no  such  cttravo^noe  of 
food,  nor  areev^n  thepeniileof-LApland  and  the  northern  eiiremiiy 
•f  Norway  eenspinioits  fdr  such  eating t  a«  is  not  less  true  of  the 
leetieders.  tn  Norway,  indeed,  the  peasant  Ts  very  mu6h  lifirtiii^  te 
Bttik,  eh#  t(f  fcHread  of  the  vety  Worst  quality:  yet«  in  neither  of 
these  eases,  do  we  find  the  people  less  strong,  or  less  capa^'df 
luboun  whHe  e^uat,  it  leasts  to^  the  Esquioaaux  tfib^tf  imki^ 
iiid  lngi«erari»ahhi«-^l^^^'*^-*^''^^f^-^*'>'-^'^^'-^^-'^'^^  ^-  •■'^.- 

'  If  iMleMii^oHinarrei^yiiff|t!c»ibf  <b^^^ 
nntritfOus  Kind,  islrherefore  not  neee^ssry,  under  this  c6inparisb|i 
with  people  most  nearly  eorrespondiii|j[kin  climate,  the  eontl^at  Is 
Hf  inbfi  fi^trlable  when*  #e  eotnpsti  thetn  with  iome  of 'the 
people  in  the  hMter  parts  of  th6  earth.  The  Arab,  on  one'siiti(ll 
aliowslice  of  barley  meil  In  th^  dey,  is  mortf  enduriingoftl^ 
thaii  an  Ksqblmaux,  who  perhs^  %iits  tweht]^  pdiinda  of  #e'#^ 
oii>  ^; while  he  hffalib  etrbnger  and  iriot^  active,  mher 'ohthpli^Yl 
anr  lalsiiy  made  tffv  any  one  ae^iiiint^d  «ir)^  the  cecfgraphiirl 
hiftury  of  man.^'^iris  for  phyaleians  to  explain  thtfieiweonfin^^ 
leg  pewei%  (if  the  human  stomaiih  and  eohstltution;  hiit^fhl 
Iboatd  ahro  <««ount  for  the  dlaposalof  that  Whieh  iianhbt  latf  to 
VPfMMiKMiat  "Wtf  wei^  alKas  #011  M  on  drpptfiid  of  ailmoii/l  dj 
at  :«heae'|ibop|le  oh  rwenly.  ^-     -^-'■■■v  '  ..    -..--f  m, 

/  9|  thet  ewplaiobd  it  it  msy,  this  vast  power  of  dil^sthi  tH^ 
M^die  iesdlt  of  f^raetloe  irtd  habit  ^  vrbile,  linfortanatd^,  ffi  ha^t 
beM0  olbelj'estsblished,  the  consequence  of  a  more  itliti'reteilhefia 
evftiti^  end  weikne««;  or  silrvation.  That  is  fully  proied  by  the 
•fi^tea  of  the  Clnitftian  boatmen.  The  Ksquimaut  iiili  aniihll 
^p9f,^Hh  oobiHer  enjoymenf  than  eatingV  and,  gui^tf  by  ko 
pHuelple  end  no  reason,  ho  devours  as  long  Im  hf  eaii,  ai^  a*!!  th||t 
Mian  proeore,  lijte  tkr^oltuna  apd  the  tigel.  The  h*lf  aavage 
Oi^ifKan  iqdllljreats  all  that  he  ein  oblaiV  tinder  the  aain^ 
iWpolaiH^;  >ct  h<  |aini  hothlng  In  strength V  power  of  endura^ 
by  it{  except  that  When  the  habit  has  once  become  establiiihed^^ 
iiwiibi  eiilure  p^iyation  at  the  first  trial,  nfr  wiibinit  such  pera|^' 
teraifii  In  modtfrailpff  as  may  ence  more  itdoee  the  ronditioii'  If 
his  atbmach  and  (COnsaiotion  lo  a  more  haturjl  state.  Yet  with  efx 
|MnM'dl^er«»lii«  meat  in  the  day,  or  eight  pounds  of  fish,  whichl 
Md  Mgttleied  ettowand^  he  ie  not  wevih  aaoee^  in  point  bf  eicll 


f 


■^fcW*^ 


-^ 


j-j" 


if 


t 


1 


.*•■"««' 


'-'--mi&p^*^ 


■  1.^  ■■' 


.'  ^^^j^'" 


8X(Hilw  Twrin-bv  stteonm 


tkin  the  Englishinan,  after  a  little  practice  ia  that  laliour,  wha  It 
amplf  fed  with  one  pciand  of  the  former,  and  a  proportional  quaa«^  . 
titv  of  the  other.  ' 

^^'  To  return  from  thes^  remar)cB,  we  were  not. a  little  amined  with 
the  fashionable  usages  of  the  table  here.  The  head  and  back>bone 
being  taken  off  from  two  fish,  they  were  handed  to  Ikmallik^nd 
Tullahiu,  tlw  seniorr,  who  «lit  the  body  longitudinally  intOiLtBlOL^^ 
equal  parti|ldividing  each  of  those  afterwards  into  two  morew 
They  were  then  rolled  up  into  cylinders  of  two  inches  in  dimeter, 
when  putting  one  end  into  the  mouth  as  far  as  possible,  it  was  cut 
off  by  the  knife  so  close  as.  to  endanger  the  end  of  the  nose;  the 
party  then  handing  the  remainder  to  his  neighbour.  In  this  way 
they  proceeded  till  the  whole  stock  of  fish  was  consumed.  One 
of  them,  afterwards  eating  the  scraps  on  one  of  our  plates,  where 
there  chanbed  to  be  some  lemort-juice,  made  wry  faces,  to  the  gffat 
amusement  and  laughter  of  the  rest.  Man  seems  a  laughing  uiim 
aa  he  has  been  termed,  even  where  he  approaches  aa  nearly  jl^lie 
can  to  his  inferiors  of  four  leg^  ■^  ^''^!^/'^ 

i  We  proceeded  after  this,  to  try  our  drag  net,  thoi^  Ifaey 
aasured  us  that  we  should  take  no  fish;  promisihg,  neverthelesa, 
that  if  we  caught  none,  we  should  partake  of  their  store.    Their 

^  propheey  was  correct;  for,  in  three  casts,  we  took  but  half  a  dOzen 
amall  fish  called  KanayOke,  while  the  laat  brought  on\y  a  large 
atone.  This  produced  great  laughter;  but  if  h  did  nolgive  them 
a  good  opinion  of  Our  dexterity  in  this  art,  so  it  had  the  advantage 
of  preventing  them  from  coveting  our  net.  But  the  fame  we  might 
,  have  lost  in  fishing,  was  compenaated  by  our  shooting,  on.  the  wing, 
a  gull  and  a  wild  goose;  and,  by  presenting  them  with  these  aM 
aoime  other  birda  that  we  bad  shot,  our  favour  went  on  increasing. 

.  After  twenty*five  houra  of  wakefulneas  and  labour,  it  was,  however, 
necessary  that  these  nativea  at  lea^t  ahould  sleep,  and  I  therefore 
aent  them  all  to  their  beds,  appointing  a  meeting  wlien  the  aun  ahould 
be  in  the  south.  '  >  -- 

Jufy  2d,  I  accordingly  went  with  Ikmallik  to  due  of  the  pits 
where  they  keep  their  fish,  froaen ;  and  aeeing  that  it  probably, 
contained  not  \eia  than  forty  aalmon,  offered  him  a  large  knife  for 
the  whole,  which  was  readily  accepted.  He  had  alwaya  been  the 
most  contented  of  these  dealera,  while  the  othera  looked  up  to  him 
for  example ;  aO  that  the  other  two  men  offered  me  their  atorea  at 
the  same  price.  Had- 1  known  the  contents  of  the  whole,  I  could 
not  have  ventured  to  oBR»r  anch  a  price ;  aa  I  found  two  hundred 
and  twenty  fish,  averaging  fiiM  pounda  each,  and  therefore  pro. 
ducing  a  ton  weight  of  aalmon ;  of  which  the  purchase  money  was 
thus  no  inorethan  seven  ahillinga  and  aixpenee. 

We  had  thus  more  than  we  could'  well  carry ;  but  as  thia  (ftA 
neat  waa  moat  needful  for  the  hedth  of  the  ereWr  wpeeially  for. 


u,/^^^-'- 


M 


to  Tpa  AB@Tio  vwawomk 


ised  with 
«ck>boo« 
iallik^n4 
inta  titob — 


those  who  were  threafened  with  scurvy,  we  sdopted  sereral  ton-' 
trivances  for  transporting  at  least  as  many  as  we  could.  The  seal- 
skin beds  were  made  into  two  bags,  and,  with  one  more  lent  by 
Ikmallik,  we  succeeded  in  packing  up  two  hundred  and  ten  Ojf 
these  fishes,  keeping  the  rest  for  present  use.  The  offer  of  tw0 
pieces  of  wood  to  make  a  spear  and  a  paddle,  produced  us,  further^ 
Uie  loan  ^  four  jlogt,  with  the  assistanciB  of  three  natives,  to  aid  us 
on  our  journey  hoi^,  and  to  bring  back  the  animals,. together  witK 
their  reward.  v 

Having  all  dined  together,  as  before,  we  were  ready  to  depart, 
when  they  said  that  they  would  show  us  their-  method  of  killing 
seals;  pointing  to  a  large  one  half  a  mile  off,  on  the  ice.  Eight  of 
them  conseqnentl«  set  out  along  the  shore  nearest  to  it,  and 
then  approached  the  animal  slowly  until  it  raised  its  head,  when 
those  in  front  stopped,  and  shouted  as  loud  as  they  could ;  on 
which  three  others  ran  up  with  incredible  swil^ness,  but  as  the 
leader  raised  his  spear  to  strike,  the  creature  suddenly  plunged 
into  a  crack  on  the  ice,  and  disappeared.  We  did  not  retaliate  their 
laughter  at  our  want  of  success  in  the  fishery,  "^  we  were  really 
'disappointed. 

They  afterwards  showed  us  the  manner  .in  wl»ich  they  take 
the  salmon.  The  weapon  is  a  spear,  with  two  very  divergent 
barbs  of  bone  or  ivory;  and,  by  this,  they  are  struck  in  the 
waterii  They  described  this  method  as  being  withoift  difficulty; 
as  the  fish  swam  up  in  the  channels  between  the  ice  and  the 
land,  in  such  dense  crowds,  that  they  could  not  throw  their  instru- 
ment without^triking  some.  Tlfcis  was  the  migration  to  the  rivers 
for  apawning,  without  doubt ;  and  it  was  the  end  of  this  migration 
that  had  caused  them  to  abandon  «  place,  which,  if  we  had  i^icfn 
understood  these  matters  better,  we  should  have  resorted  to  at  an 
earlier  period.  That  report  also  confirms  a  discredited  American 
Ule-,  in  which  the  fish  are  described  to  be  so  abundant,  at  some 
seasons,  in  certain  rivers,  that  they  are  trampled  to  death  by  the 
hoofs  of  horses  in  fording;  while,  if  confirmation  were  necessary, 
the  reporta  of  I%.Perou8e  on  the  same  subject,  are  beyond  ques- 
tioning. £^       V     ,io;tv  ,    »^    ,   /.  .       ft        AU- 

We  at  length  set  off,  dragging  the  three  bags  of  fish  sRer  the 
sledi{e,  as  it  could  not  bear  the  weight.  The  jce  being  hummocky, 
and  full  of  cracks  and  holes,  gave  us  much  trouble:  so  that  it 
required  four  hours  of  hard  work  to  reach^  the  first  of  the  islands, 
about  four  miles  off.  I  here  determined  on  bdrying  two  of  the 
bags ;  carrying  on  only  one,  in  the  boat  on  the  sledge.  At  midnight 
we  arrived  at  the  secOnd  island,  four  milee  further;  and  here  it 
was  necessai;y  for  us  to  eat  and  rest,  having  thirteen  miles  more  to 

the  ship.  ...         .1 

-  The  route  continued  very  bad  the  next  d^y,  beiQi^  (braughjOlSM 


-.  I 


of  water,  often  Itneo  d««p,  ind  with  holct  quitf  throagh  the  i«t» 
beftidM  rery  wide  6rapk«.  Falling  into  ooe  of  those)  the^iltd|t« 
Al^o  overset  near  iite,  the  bax  of  fish  fallln);  at  the  sama  tiitio  iH 
Mleh  a  tnanner)  that  had  I  Dot  beah  first,  it  would  have  gone  dowil 
through  the  crack  and  been  lo^tk  The  only  event,  fortunatalyi  waa 
a  teund  ducking.  Not  long  after,  it  begkn*^  blow  hard)  and  to 
snoW)>  while  we  had  still  seven  miles  before  us }  but  Our  perae^ 
ireranee  at  length  brought  us_  within  sight  of  home,  at  three  miiM 
—distance ;  wheo,i[fter  much  difficulty,  in  cohseqlience  of  th^  s^pi* 
ralioh  of  the  ice,  obliging  us  to  unload  and  carry  thrttgs  pieeeiheal 
over  the  loose  ft-agments,  we  ^ot  near  enough  to  hoiat  our  eolouM) 
ind  Were  ansv«ered  by  those  of  Commander  Ross,  who  had  not 
arrived  many  minutes  before  us,  from  a  similar  fishing  oxpeditiod^ 
We  found  all  well  on  board. 

There  is  lit^  to  add  to  the  ttarrative  of  this  short  ezpoditiom 
The  river  whieh  we  had  visited  is  ealled  by  the  natives  Tatchtk,. 
and  is  only  flHeen  miles  fVom  the  ship,  though  our  circuitous  coorao 
had  made  it  twenty  to  us.  It  is  i|bout  five  hundred  feet  wide,  and 
from  six  to  ten  deepi  the  bottom  full  of  largo  blocka  of  gfaoite^ 
and  the  current  running  strong  at  first,  bdt  diminishing  beforoW* 
had  led  it.  Thero  was  a  rapid^Mao  about  two  milas  up  the  strtAm, 
preventing  its  navigation :  t^Ue  the  natives  informed  oio  that  It 
fan  out  of  a  lai^  lake  whiah  w«s  auppliei  by  oth«ra«t  a  craalMr 

distance.     "■'.  /".    :,-A-'i  /..J.  ..A^v...  ;:.i:xaM:.'.-;-^...,;.    ;.,-„-^.\  ,;, ,.7; ,.,-,-..  ■ 

To  our  eommuniMtlons  with  th«  nMives  I  mmit  also  add,  that 
they  endeavoured  to  entertain  us  in  their  beat  manner }  acting  ovet> 
ftgain  the  drama  of  our  first  meeting,  tofseihOr  with  that  whieb  was 
to  take  place  when  wo  met  hereafter  atl^eitehillee.  Our  attomptt 
to  repeat  their  words  were  also  a  soorce  of  great  amusement  to  thoMi. 
If  the  meeting  had  been  fortunate  for  us,  in  procuring  sueh  a  9Vfaif 
of  fish,  which  we  should  have  mtssedjiad  we  been  a  d»y  Jaicr,!  mw 
also  found  that  this  had  been  stored  up  with  the  intemton  ofsellilig 
U  to  us  the  next  year.  I  might  indeed  have  proeuivd  a  hundroi 
and  thirty  more,  but  they  were  net  so  fine,  n«»r  eouM  we  contrive 
to  take  them  away.  I  ought  also  to  mentioia  that  wo  bpMgbt/aaa 
them  three  wolf  whelps  as  specimens.  '  "i;,v;,fl>-«./ 

Jtrfjf  1st.  The  proceedings  on  board  during  oorabaence  had  been 
marked  by  littte  vitriety.  Some  of  the  men  had  been  tamed  in  their 
Oxpediiions,  ahd  required  management  in  their  allotted  work.  The 
thermometer  at  midnight  was  S7^  Gin  the  second  day  it  di4  not 
vary,  and  the  men  were  recovering.  The  third  was  the  day  of  iho 
rotiim  of  Oommanfter  Ross's  party  and  my  own,  being  foggy  in  the 
morning  With  snow  and  rain.  ii»  the  evening  i  detached  a 'party 
to  bting  home  .the  fiah  that  hod  boeo  kfi  bohiad. 


.■»#-. 


■.,Jj^»i  :=■ 


'J!:v-' 


V^l,„.  . 


'  ■■      ■ 

■«  V 

1_II1— — — -- 

.  ■■«»:;■. 
■:'■  i"*'  ■   ■ 

...     '  '        •  "      ■     "   ' 

■ttB 

the  !•#» 
>  iltdKtt 
tirti*  ib 
le  down 
•Iy»  WM 
» and  lo 

ra  Diiiaa  . 

.    .    ..-     :'      -      ...:     .',•■    ■':■■/ 

r 


CHAPtKRXXXiL 


-.-;.-t...*.-.'.* 


''       Tt^Mmiiont  dmfing  i/iugtui,  and  ikt  Summarffh 


-t  is 


■H.*- 


.•>i 


iMtJ^  4IA.    Or  Sundiy^  titer'  «harch  senritte»  the  men  who  had 
NHi  iMt  for  the  Mlmen  ireturned :  and  part  of  Monday  wai  oceii* 

5ied  in  elearting  them  and  packing  them  in  tlie  Unka  with  iee. 
'he  aQOW  had  nearly  left  the  land  $  and,  thia  night,  the  nocturnal 
temperatere  reae  to  48**.  There  waa  little  to  note  on  the  two  auh^x) 
Miquent  dayat  the  neeesaary  work  for  fitting  out  the  ahip  wu 
going  on.  The  temperature  fell,  however,  so  much  on  the  seventh* 
that  it  froie  hard.  The  men  were  now  ottUred  to  toceiv*  tb'itt 
povnda  ««f  the  freah  fish  every  other  day.      -■••   i '  '^        , 

^  6/A»  It  waa  tesa  cold,  yet  at  midnight  the  thermometer  wan  bat 
tt**.  On  the  following  day,  it  rained  hard  for  twelve  hooie,  and  „ 
the  effett  on  the  remaining  snow  was  considerable.  A  native 
trrivod  with  an  offer  of-  more  fish,  which  we  agreeil  to  purehase 
When  brought)  and  we  undertook  to  aeod  for  it  while  he  pitched 
bia  tent  near  us,  witb  his  iamily.         •  '^■:.--^--m*^'k-"^^i^i'^'!^'^'  ^  f 

'■"-"■\9tk^    In  taking  a  walk  to^ay*  I  found  the  ice  not  more  than  a    * 
Ib4t  thick  in  many  plaoea,  and  ao  brittle,  that  our  weight  broke 
through  it.    Our  projected  canal  had  melted  away  to  two  feet,  in 
depth  ol  be^at  the  attr&te.    Some  dedu  and  other  birda  weao    , 
MIed. 

i-%  \Hki  In  the  course  of  this  Sunday  our  party  returned  with  tlit  '-■ 
iah  for  which  they  had  been  sent«  It  waa  fojegy  in  ihr  morning,  • 
and  tome  rain  came  on  at  night,  lasting  till  thefoUowingday.  Thue 
H  continued  on  the  thirieettih  I  ao  that.  the.  anew  on  the  land  was 
•Imost  entirely  diaaolved,  and  the  ice  covered  by  water.  The  aeve^ 
til  worka  went  on  in  the  mean  time}  and  oiir  apertamca  abok, 
MMoiig  other  things,  aome  amall. birda  that  we  did  not  know.  ¥^ 
It  did  Mt  chter  up  till  the  evening  of  thia  day*  whM  if 


'^- 


r 


...Ail's* 


^ 


■^^^ 


i 


A 


PHr- 


sioMRi  fmrAM  ev  snoomiT 


b: 


bceame  fine^  continuing  so  on  the  followinji;  Any.  At  this  timo  t 
piece  of  ice  cane  up  to  the  surface  from  benetth  the  ship  so  forci- 
bly, as  to  lift  her  up^n  one  side  and  cause  her  to  heel,  to  the  tem« 
Eorarfaliirni  of  those  who  wereMow.  Qn  shore,  the  mosquitoes 
ad  just  eemmenced  their  most  unwelcome  summer  visit,  and  wer« 
in  sWfrms.    The  thermometer  was  42°  at  midnight. 

16IA^  This  day  was  fine,  with  a  strong  northerly  breeze ;  and 
our  spostsmen  were  very  sucoMsfui  in  shooting  several  birds*  It 
^tiil  blew  hard  on  the  following,  with  some  heavy  rain.  The  outer 
part  of  {tl|e  canal  was  now  open^  ;  <,;',:  .  s,^  ,  t  ,4v^, 
18/AJ  Sunday's  muster,  aftelr  service,  found  ihe  men  much  im# 
provedj  in  consequence  of  the  change  of  diet.  -The  ice  round  the 
sbipwiii  now  broken  in  pieces,  and  the  snow^had  entirely  left  the 
-  hillV^  hot  no  clear  water  was  seen  at  sea.       .  it  „     .»- 

19th.  Calm  and  clear  weather  brou^t  the  moaquitoe«  even  on 
board  the  ahip,  where  they  were  very  troublcmme.  On  this  and 
tbefoUowJng  day  the  thermometer  was  as  high  as  49°  at  midnight. 
On  the  twenty'first,  the  ice  was  so,  broken  up  about  the  ship  that 
we  eowld  have  hauled  her  out  to  the  end  of  the  canal.  The  several 
chief  stUs  had  now  been  bent ;  and  most  of  the  painting,  calking* 
and  other  repairs  and  alterations,  were  nearly  finished.  -  '  «j 

t9Jv  The  weaither  was  really  hot,  as  well  as  calm,  the  thermome- 
ter rising  to  70'.  The  swarms  (tf  mo8i|uitoeB  were  as  great  and  aa/ 
troutj^csome  as  in  the  West  Indies.  There  seemed  to  be  diflerent 
species  ^  and  a  large  kind  ws^  the  most  venomous.  The  aame  calm 
add  wscoi  weather  continued  on  the  following  two  days,  bringing 
us  to  the  end  of  the  week  ;  but  with  as  little  variety  of  oceurrencf 
•a  daring  the^reeeding.^  We  had  work,  indeed^  to  employ  us,  but 
it  was  nevertheless  dull.  We  were  prisom»rs  now,  equally,  by 
land  and  water;  for  the  former  was  unfit  for  travelling  inito 
piesent  condition,- and  'as  to  clear  water  at  ses,  there  was  as  yel 
none.  Even  out  sporting  was  impracticable,  except  at  midnight  j 
aiich  was  the  annoyance  from  the  mosquitoes.  '"  ^     > »  >  st  ^  i* 

99iki  A  south  wind  drove  some  of  the  ice  to  the  northward, 
fawt  ftill  we  saw  no  clear  sea  from  the  top  of  the  highest  hill :  the 
whole  visible  surface  waa  a  compact  mass  of  ice.  B^ing  Sunda^, 
no  work  waa  done.  But  on  Monday  tlie  Krusenstern  was  cleared 
out,  and  launched  off  the  ice  to  the  beach,  that  she  might  be  reA 
paired  and  calked  ;  and  as  the  ice  was  now  in  motion  around  us, 
It  became  necessary  to  moor  to  the  rocks,  on  each  aide.  -  This  wan 
a  day  of  hard  rain  for  the  most  j>art.'      *         >  >..  v.*^ji»*s_ 

87IA.    'I  he  rain  continued,'  with  a  freah  breeze  and  a  lower  tern* 

Siratura,  by  which  we  got  rid  of  the  mosquitoes  for  a  time.  Tho 
rusenstern'a  and  Other  work  wentoiD,  on  this  snd  the  following 
day,  part  of  which  waa  expended  in  reshipping  such  psrts  of  th« 
9QiyHftii4BighLbftifiDni«ctiblo.to4he  general  usea  of  the  •bip.~- 


W  i  . 


m,. 


•  "i*f-'A 


^■jamnc-wmrnnmi- 


m 


Among  thege  .wu  Utt  rinta  shaft ;  the  eyiinder*  %«n  to  be  ent  op 

for  the  purpose  of  exsmining  their  materials ;  bat  as  the  boilets 

\  and  their  frames  coald  be  of  oe  use^  and  were  not  worth  the  trans- 

£»rt  in  any  state,  they,  were  left  on  shore }  with  |he  satisfaetoify 
fleetion,  at  leaat,  that-they  would.provii  a  Taluableiron  mine  Ibr 
oar  friends  the  Esqninwux.  . 
'Mthi  Some  trout  had  been  observed  in  the  Isjke  yesterday*;  but 
being  late  iagdng  with  the  boat  and  the  net,  we  had  only  one  hsul, 
and  took  but  four.  Thia  day  we  set  out  sgain,  and  had  the  lock  to 
take  above  a  hundred,  averaging  a  pound  each.  It  was  the  b«t 
sport  that  we  had  had  for  some  time,  while  it  also  Aimished  two 
fUys*  full  allowance  to  the  erew.  On  the  next,  there  weremriy 
aeven  taken^  Some  rain  felHn  the  evening,  and  also  on  the  follow- 
-  ing  morning.  This  day,  mere  than  a  hundred  trout  were  triieit  I17 
the  net  and  the  rod ;  amoontin|(  to  upwards  of  seventy  poondsi— 
The  varioea  worka  had  been  going  on  aa  usual ;  and  Saturday  n^t 
brought  them  to  a  tflose  for  the  week^  bringing  withr  it  also  the  end 
of  the  month  of  Joiyi 

Although  it  had  been  «  warmer  and  a  better  one  than  lane.  It 

had  not  compensated  for  the  lateoeas  of  the  season  in  the  two  iire« 

eeding  ones.    Thi  first^of  August  was  srrived,  and  we  had  not  yet 

.  seen  any  dlwr  sea,  nor  had  any  of  the  fee  on  it  appeared  to  move. 

Still  it  was  provable  that  the  irat  aeutlmrly  gale  would  break  it 

np,  could  that  laat  but  for  forty-eight  hours;  so  that  we  ffligklStlH 

:.  Med  on  hope.  ,.>..;■.'    ,    >..■,■,.«■,  ;  . 

The  month  had  been  uniform,  and  therefore  eon^ieratively  doll 

toua;  but  we  had  not  at  least  been  wearied  for  want  of  occupation.^ 

The  ship  had  been  eompletdy  refitted  ;  and  the  new  paintim,  while 

.  uaeful,  had  alao  improved  her  appearance.    She  waa  ao  little  leaky 

mw*  sa  not  to  make  more  Uian  five  or  aix  inchea  of  water  in  the 

twenty-four  houra.^   Lee  boards  had  been  a^ilied  t<^her,  and  we 

truated  thattheae  would  improve  her  sailing ;  of  thedisposil  of  the 

several  parta  of  the  rejected  enpne^  I  have  just  q)oken.'V^««'  ' 

The  health  of  the  men  had  ao  for  improved  on  tiieir  amended 
iKet,  that  even  the  suspicious  ones  were,  now  quite  well.  This 
gfeataupply  of  fish  was  a  Blatter  of  con^tutatieni  and  somewhat 
balanced  our  other  disappointments.  They  who,  in  reading  this 
Jouraal,  may  read  of  meat  and  eatings  most  add  something  to  the 
common  ideas  usually  aasoeiated  in  their  minds  with  this  sul^l. 
At  home,  a  sood  or  a  bad  dinner  is  but  a  matter  Of  content  (ur.tlie 
iBverse  ;  and  the  first  salmon  of  the>seatBon  ik>  more  than  a  luiniy. 
^&M bad  dinoeeof  yesterday  will  aJao  be  compensated  bv  a  bettar 
one  to-morrow;  and  he  who  cannot  get  aalmon  will  easily  find  «i 
ifqui^ent.  But  to  us,  mod  diet  or  lied,  salt  proviaions  orfresh> 
jMlEced  to  tura  thewakMietween  aotivity  and  weakneas*  health  and 
'1  inieht  hannan  laaiiaed  In  hanwen  hnt  i 


^.i 


n 


^ 


m 


u 


i 


#1 


i 


i' 


i^,-jt.  ■'.-  -.-       ,-w;.^,-^.;;. 


~"-r' — ^ 


\ 


(Swr>i!,*a*»»*,««i.*-s>''r»»-!p»--»<  ■'■»-tm  j-*->H'»t!"W^»««WV*'«w'*tf»*.<i>r»'><^->«)ia«--H^^ 


■   Hl^^-Il»!  •',>,/> 


.•J'S?«-..>«Wr*t»..»()*«fclBi«t'*.,  ?«•*»,       *»W(--«H^ 


■'■»*.>"*"*-«**;■  C»'1!'*<-"*P-*^-  •  ,t»*'»;.  ■»  ^  ^^r^•'»!f>B«i^VM■.I:|la,IW.«^^.^■■%q»,■,^,r«*«5'^•<?^'fl^^ 


•--«,-iWN(^>)ai-4)fc3!y  -«>w«ipf#i9?»iir''»<*'***S*»'»'''w»»i 


:■';■■  riMitM^'--    :f^.rr■M!l.^^r.■^■^l^^^■''-''^^'M^-,<f)r|^•■<,S'iH■w^f/■*v^|■'^^^»■^■!■«^^y:^lrlf^^ 


.,'' ■y.-W'ir,  jam*  w.c.»^  i^.^*- 


,'JS«:-,--'iiJP*ms*'«  •!!««»«■  ,-««r- 


•■Vf'MSKI*  ■-"■»'>    X"- 


v^'fnW^-S  ,:,*,r 


-.j^-v^y^fV-".^- 


•-iJ>ni!>'«-«j«a?-»  ">fi »»' 


,t;*oi»m\A'r<ifnsf  •>»ui'*'fmi^''- 


.  -Mew.-'-^te*^  '^;, 


-'fcN«.-sa«»»-H' 


111*"*  l^l>V«j:   ««(:i»-<,J-V, 


.aj,.,v..-  -■••I,  ..i»-,^i.>-..*^r.j«ll,«<«-'Ji»j,^-„-f-,.J»|p,.,       ■»/«, v.-i>- 4.  <.-:<«>-j|«*  ■«»«<«*. 

f  ->* -iJ.';  i-#w»!^i»jii8P.vi.a»  .s*>w.«-s*»«Sfr-.>>i%;-.-«*i.  •   ■.•i^.>^-     -Ktittitx-  ^'i^^m**- 


.;.*»:■"  .afl^isR- 


■-*a(»isi'«v*5!i6«-<.««*:^-;'»*»  '•.-»»■ 


„,«»■»«-.  — -*«Mir*«  »nt*»^ 


TO  TM  AKOtlC  llOIOltf. 


flta. 


■hoivcr  or  rain  t  but  things  lettled  ^ick  to  the  tiime  state  on  the '^ 
following  day,  when  a  still  larger  trout,  weighing  nearly  %ve  pounds, 
was  taken,-  with  about  twenty  others  of  the  ordinary  size.    The 
Kruscnstern  wss  launched  and  brought  alongside. 

tih.  At  five  in  the  afternoon,  a  breeze  sprang  up  and  blew  fresh 
from  the  soiith«westivard  for  ten  hours*.  This,  setting  the  ice  in 
.  notion,  carried  away  one  of  our  hawsers,  and  the  ship  was  forced 
•gsinst  the  rocksnear  her ;  but  was  soon  got  ofl*  again,  and  secured, 
without  any  damage.  This  was  a  sort  of  return  of  our  labours  of 
the  preceding  autumn,  but  of  a  very  different  nature,  as  we  now 
.  hoped  ;  since  it  was  the  probable  commencement  of  our  liberation, 
■s  the  other  was  of  our  imprisonment.  This  moving  ice,  howevet;, 
soon  stopped  nesr  the  shore:  f'lrth^ir  out,  it  continued  in  motion  to 
the  northward  till  two  in  the  afternoon,  when  the  tide  carried  it 
Inok,  having  now,  at  this  spring,  a  rise  of  five  feet  and  a  half. 

.8/A«  It  was  a  foggy  and  rainy  day,  with  variable  winds.  The 
men,  in  their  walk  after  church,  reported  that  there  was  much  clear 
water  in  the  large  bay,  but  that  there  was  a  ridge  between  Fury 
and  Hecla  islands,  and  the  point.  The  weather  differed  little  on 
the  following  day,  and  on  the  tenth  the  rain  was  much  heavier.  It 
served  to  {Prevent  all  fishing,  nor  had  our  sliccess  been  very  great 
on  the  preceding  ones.  The  wind  was  to  the  north-westward, 
•nd  became  very  strong,  ao  as  4o  psck  the  ice  as  close  as  possible. 
Many  seals  were  seen,  and  some  water  taken  on  board.   • 

ll/A.'  The  weather  improved:  some  fish  were  taken)  and  a 
aouthcriy  wind  caused  the  ice  to  move.  By  the' next  day,  under 
the  same  breete,  much  more  cleared  away,  so  that  an  extent  of  two 
miles  of  clear  water  was  seen  to  the  northward.  A  good  deal  was, 
however,  afterwards  brought  back  by  the  wind  shifiing  to  the  north: 
nor  indeed  would  the  tide  have  admitted  of  making  an  attempt  to 
get  out  For  many  days  now,  the  midnight  temperature  had  been 
about  8a<*. 

13M.  The  observatory  was  taken  on  board :  the  day  being  calm, 
^  and  no  change  in  the  ice.  Nor  was  there  any  on  the  fourteenth. 
The  fisbefmea  were  now  supplying  us  with  enough  for  our  daily 
consumption.  It  was  a  memorable  day,  inasmuch  as  it  wss  the 
anniversary  of  our  first  visit  to  Fury  Beach.  The  thermometer 
fell  to  84*  at  night.  There  was  reason,  indeed,  wfiy  the  night 
ahould  become  colder,  as  the  sun  was  bow  situated ;  but  there 
was  less  subsidence  by  much,  than  when  it  had  been  far  higher, 
because  the  ground  was  then  all  covered  with  snow,  and  was  now 
elsar ;  thurretaining  some  of  the  heat  which  it  had  acquired  during 
the  day. 

15M.    The  morning  of  Sunday  had  a  favourable  aspect,  as  a 
westerly  breese  had  moved  the  ice  from  the  coast ;  but  it  soon 
■    cfaugcd  to  the  north-east,  and  all  became  as  it  had  been  before. 
4« 


a:.„^ 


.-«-.™.»»--3:.  tj^>; 


pjtl|ijr(ivti?fa  . 


I 


■'•■< 


f74 


UOOHD  yOTAOB  Of  DnCOTBRT  / 


T(^e  first  star  that  we  had  yet  seen  for  the  summer,  Capella,  wu 
visible  at  midntght.  The  midnif^ht  temperature  fell  to.6°i  . 
I6/A.  After  a  tranquil  morning  of  westerly  airs,  the  wind  to> 
(i  wards  evening,  became  a  strong  breez^from  the  south-west ;  but  as 
the  tide  was  very  low,  and  the  ice.  aground,  there  was^  no  mption 
with  us,  though  there  if/fia  some  in  the  offing.  The  following  day 
was  calm.and  mild,  and'thfre  was  no  change  in  the  ice.  The  mid- 
night temperature  rose  again  to  34°.  Nof  was  there  i^ny  thing 
worth  noticing  on  the  eighteenth.  Our  success  in  ^fishing,  on  all 
these";days,  was  very  small;  and  we  had  to  regret  the  loss  of  one  of 
our -tame  |8xes,  after  having  been  one  of  the  family  for  six  months. 
The  vacancy  of  the  sea,  it  is  well  known,  makes  even  the  flight  of 
a  gull  or  the  rising  of  a  porpoise  an  importan|  -elf  nt.  IVhether 
the  vacuum  of  wide-spread  ice  and  snow,  when  tl||>  ship  is  itself  a 
prisoner,  instead  of  being  only  a  prison,  be  no.tq||t^h  worse,  th'ty 
must  decide  who  have  experienced  both:  but  w4l  shall  probably  be 
excused  A)r  considering  the  death  of  this  unlucky 'l&x  as  among  the 
important  occurrences  df  our  present  life,-  *        ,, 

19/A.  A  fine  day,  with  a  northerly  breeze,  was  but  a  continu- 
ation of  this  now  sleepy  uniformity  :  our  ship  could  do  nothing; 
and  we,  little.  The  capture  of  so.-ne  fish,  and  the  occurrence  of  raiif 
at  night,  se|rce1y  varie#the  sameness  of  the  following  day.  The 
twenty-first  closed  another  week :  m4v  thus  did  the  third  week  of 
August  find  ui  where  we  had  beeiv|Klrit;e.  May  in  prospect,  since 
September  in  place.  The  rise  of  tli^  t^de,  during  these  past  days,  . 
had  vacillated  about  the  standard  of- six  feet ;  having  once  been  at 
more  than  seven,  and  being  now  five.  The  ice  was  still  close,  to 
the  northward,  under  a  fresh  breeze.  "'  , 

i9d.  It  was  the  same  on»  Sunday ;  though  the  afternooa  was 
warn»er  than  it  had  been  for  a  considerable  time.^  There  was  an 
open  lane  of  water  seen  from  the  shore,  lying  along  the  land  to  the 
westward  of  the  furthest  visible  point  north.  On  Monday  there 
was  no  change :  but  in  the  night  the  wind  increased  to  a  fresh  gale 
from  the  northern  quarter,  and,  at  daylight  iwxt  day,  the  ice  was 
seen  in  n\pid  mption  to  the  southward,  and  packing  into  the  bottom 
of  the  bay.  The  inner  part  of  the  harbour  was  thus  cleared,  as  the 
coast  was,  for  about  two  miles  to  the  southward  ;  but  afterwards,  a 
pack  of  the  ice  streamed  in,  and  filled  all  except  the  place  where  we 
lay,  that  being  defended  by  the  grounding  of  some  heavy  masses 
outside. 

85M.  The  wind  continuing  to  blow  fresh  from  tl}e  north-east- 
ward, the  ice  continued  to  accumulate  so  on  us,  tha^  a  very  small 
space  was  left  clear. 
~~^  ~  S6M.  It  was  more  moderate  in  the  morning,  with  rain;  but 
there  was  otherwise  no  change.  Both  the  subsequent  days  were 
equally  free  of  any  events  worth  noticing,  beyond  some  indifierent 
success  in  fishiltg  and  shooting,  including  the  taking  of  a  seal. — 


iii^j* 


TO  THX  ABCTie  BIOXOlTi. 


•11^ 


Another  week  was  p>w,  and  the  night  thermometer  hid  little 
changed,  varying  between  se**  and  SS". 

SVM,  Sunday  promi3ed  something  new,  the  wind ,  becoming  • 
gale  from' the  north-westward.  Thus  the  ice  began  to  move  with 
cqnsperalije  rapidity,  and  the  harbour  was  once  more  cleared.  W^ 
tried.to  console  ourselves  by  recollecting  Ihxt  on  the  same  day  last 
year,  the  ground  was  covered  with  snow,  and  the  tempei'ature  ten 
degrees  lower. 

SO/A.  The  ite  continued  moving  to  the  southward  till  four 
o'clock,  when  it  stopped,  and  remained  stationary  the  whole  day. 
On  the  following,  there  was  no  change  In  the  weather  till  evening, 
when  it  rained  from  the  westward,  with  a  fresh  breeze.  We  made 
ready  fqr  hauling  the  ship  out  into  a  pool  to  the  northward  of  us, 
that  we  might  be  more  in  the  way  ofip  extricating  ourselves  when 
the  ice  should  fairly  open.  And  with  this  was  summed  up  the 
month  of  August. 

,  The  end  of  that  month  also  left  us  eleven  months  fixed  to  one 
spot.  Whatever  value  voyages  of  discovery  may  have  in  these/ 
countries,  they  are  certa|rfly  purchased  at  a  high  price  in  time/ 
thdugh  there  were  nothing  else.  We  might  have  rircumnavigated 
the  globe  in  the  siTme  period;  and  I  imagine  no  one  was  very  sah> 
guine  about  future  north-west  passages,  eyen  should  we  contrive  to 
make  one  ourseive^  / 

Th^t  this  was  a  month  of  daily,  and  hourly  anxiety,  of  hopes  and 
fears,  promise,  and  non-performance,  I  need  not  say,  while  no 
record  of  feelings  could  give  a  picture  of  them.  There  were  but 
four  weeks  of  this  never-assured  summer  tu  come;  and,  really,  the 
hope  of  its  speedy  arrival  was  by  no  means  great.  On  many  past 
days  we  had  more  than  hoped,  we  had  'almost  expected,  that  the 
next  day,  or  the  following,  or  some  other  not  far  distant,  would 
release  us;  and  they  who  inflected  most,  were  perhaps  the  least 
easy  under  this  constantly  recurring  disappointment.  It  was  my 
business,  at  any  rale,  to  keep  up  the  hopes  of  the  men,  and,  where 
that  might  be  difficult,  to  find  them  occiipatioils  to  prevent  them 
from  thinking  too  much  of  the  future.  4ii  thi^,  the  permission  to 
shoot  and  fish  gave  much  aid,  while  the  variety  of  diet  this  pro- 
cured them  was  also  advantageous.  Of  their  health,  indeed,  there 
was  no  reason  to  complain.  -       / 

The  commencing  temperature  of  this  month  was  promising,  but 
the  northerlyAvinds  of  the  latter  portion  were  extremely  adverse, 
since  it  was4he  effect  of  these  to  pack  the  ice  upon  us  as  fast  as  it 
broke  up.  /6ne  conclusion  seemed  obvious,  namely,  that  the  winter 
in  that  quarter  had  been  particularly  severe;  though  we  had  once 
thought^therwi&e,  when  observing  how  often  the  temperature  rose 
when  ;the  wind  blew  from  this  point  o(  the  compass.  This  was  an 
unfayburable  view  of  things;  but  there  was  no  remedy.  I  need 
only  add,  that  the  highest  and  lowest  degrees  at  which  the  thtt-. 


-■  hi 


X-., 


'** 


"y^fl? 


'•'^^" 


t76 


ncoiTD  rpTAO*  OF  SnOOTlBT 


mometer  stood  were  58°  and  38*  p\\u,  and  that  the  mean  of  the 

month  was  40°  87*  plus. ' 

Every  thing  about  the  ship,  boats  and  all,  had  been  entirely  re- 
fltteil  and  made  ready  for  sea— ^and  she  had  never  been  so  trim, 
neat,  clean,  and^i^omfortabl?.  We  h.id  obtained  abundant  room  by 
the  dismrssalof  tho  engrhe;  and  that  was  no  srAall  gain,  to  cjom- 
pensate  a^kri^,  if  thatYnachinery  ean  be  esteemed  a  luss,  whence 
we  had  denw^l  so  little  advantage  and  undergone  so  much  iiracm* 
venience  and  vexation.  It  was  probable  that  the  K«quim«ux  wout 
profit  fdr  a  lung  timft  to  come,  by  the  eaehea  of  Messrs.  Braith* 
waite  and  Erickson.         ,     >  *         / 

Having  concluded,,  for  the  present,  a  long  train  of  observationaj 
it  Was  very  satisfactory  to  find  how  well  the  chronometers  ha^ 
performwi.  No.  571  of  Parkinson  an'i  Frodsham  had  coBtinuea 
iterate  of  plus  I.I  aeepnds  per  day  without  variation. 

The  season' had  been  very  favourable  to  vegetation,  and  the  ool« 
leietioo  of  plants  contained,  as-was  believed,  many  new  ones.  After 
80  long  a  time  of  confinement  to  a  narrow  and  unvarying  society, 
it  was  highly  pleasing  to  find  that  the  general  harmony  waa  un- 
altered. 


1 


CHAPTER  XXXIII. 


Warping  Out,  Unloading^  and  Final  Sseeqte  from  our  Har- 
bour— -Iiyeffectual  Movement*  among  tki  Ice-^Becomo  fixed 
in  the  atiempt  to  find  a  New  HarbotMr/or  the  Winter— Sum- 
mary  of  Septen^bfr.  » 

Sept.  1st.  Tats  month  set  in  with  great  severity;  the  thermo- 
meter was  at  the' freezing  point,  ainking  finally  to  89%  and  there 
was  a  violent  storm  of  snow,  which  covered  the  hills  for  the  first 
time  this  season:  while  it  was  also  the  aeverest  gale  we  had  expe- 
rienced during  the  whole  summer.  It  varied  between  the  weat  and 
the  north;  and  though  it. continued  topack  jlhe  loose  teOj  thia  could 
not  move  far,  being  aoon  atopped  by  the  fixed  mass  at  the  bottom 
of  the  bey.  (kir  own  passage  to  the  maio  waa  filled  by  two  large 
ieebei^  'i 

id.  The  same  gale  blew,  and  was  very  heavy  about  two  o'clock, 
%hen  thero  waa  ao  edipso  af  the  moon,  invisible  to  us.  The  ice 
wiaa  drnring  M  tb«  SMtiiward  with  great  ntiidity,  and  packing  it- 


■I 


TO  TI 


ABOTIO  Biaioirf. 


m\(  in  immenie  maue«. :  In  the  evening  the  wind  dininiahedlaQd 
the  tnow  which  had  Tallen  on  the  hiJU  diaappeared. 

8(/.     It  did  not  blow  aoLslrong,  and  the  ice  waa  at  a  atand;  but  it 
Troie  hard  at  midni;;hfi  wilh  the  thermometer  at  89°.    The  weather 
being  fine  hext  day,  and,  expcctintja  hifi^tide  at  two  in  .the  morn* 
ing,  wv  attlempted  to  croal  the  bar  between  the  iilandand  the  main; 
.;^u  I  before  I  we  could  warp  outnt  fell,  ao  much,  that  we  remained, 
•ground  in  only  fourteen  inchea  of  water.     By  titia  accident,  how- 
aver,  we  pirofiled  ao  as  to  examine  the  Hhip's  bottom,  and  thua  alao 
repaired  aev«ral  amail'  damages  which  she  had  received  from  (he  ice.  . 
Having  aUJo  ahored  her  up,  we  procee(|[ed   to  lighten  her  by  dii- 
eharging  fcjur  tons  of  water,  and.  piiitin^  ten  tons  of  other  articles  in   . 
tha  boata,  that  we  mighr,  if  possih'le,  float  her  off  at  the  next  tide; 
:~  laying  out  |)aw8ers  to  warp  her  off  when  iWn  ahould  take  place.-^ 
There  were  showers  of  snow  in  the  day,  and  the  night  whs  equally 
•old.     We Jiad  thh  miafortune  of  losing  our  best  dog,  which  died. 

0/A*  We  were  obliged  to  work  to-day.  At  two  o'clock  in  the 
morning  wo  attempted  to  heave  the  aliip  over  the  bar,  but  in  vain. 
Tho  wind  had  shifted  to  the  so&thward,  and  the  .tide  did  not  rise  so 
high  aa  before.  It  became  necessary,  therefore,  to  unload  the  ves- 
•bI,  aa  the  tidca  were  now  dim^ishing,  while  we  could  not  run  the 
( iriak.of  being  neaped  in  this  manner.  A  bridge  was,  in  con*tequenee, 
laid  to  the  r^oks,  which  were  but  eight  yards  from  ua,  and  we  car- 
ried ev«r  it  all  our  remaining  store*  and  provisions,  togethierAvith 
'that  iron-work  of  the  engine  which  remained  on*  board.  In  IIm 
•▼•ning,  the  wind  came  to  the  eastwiard  with  aome  snow,  giving  ua 
hopes  01  a  better  tide  the  next  day.  Three  treenail  hoM  were 
here  discovered  in  the  ship's  bottom,  in  the  search  after  a  leak 
which  had  plagued  us,  and  they  were  accordingly  secure^ 

0/A.  A  shift  of  the  wind  up  towards  the  north  produced  aueh  a 
tide  as  enabled  us  to  heave  off  the  bar  very  early  in  the  morning. 
Yet  the  iee  had  ao  grounded,  that  we  could  not  advance  far  enough 
to  atroid  grounding  ourselvta  wheorthe^tide  ahould  fall,  and  did  not 
theneo  dare  to  bring  on  boara  much  of  what'  had  been  landed.  ,> 
During  the  day  every  thing  was  covered  with  anow,  which  partiallr 
disaolved  under  ao  evening. haze;  and  at  night  it  was  clear  ain 
ftpoaty.^"  .   .. 

7/A.  It  blew  a  gale  from  the  northward  during  the  nighf,  bet 
the  ice  did  not  move.  Towards  morninfr,  we  contrived  to  heave 
out,  so  aa  to  get  a  foot  more  Of  water,  which  enabled  us  to  proceed, 
with  the  reloading  of  the  ship ;  and^  after  this,  by  aid  nf  the  ice  at- 
oitr  bows,  nte  gained  another  foot,  tiius  advancing  about  ten^fvet  in 
.distance.  Thia  waa  a  depth  sufficient  to  allow  us  to  relrad  eo- 
tircly ;  but  that  caused  us  work  enough  for  two  daya.  irtovther^ 
mometer  waa  5°  hijtiher,  and  there  was  some  snow,    h^^ 

8/A.    The  ehanges  in  the  wind  and..w^ther  were  trifling,  and  we 
liroceeded  with  the  reloadinu;  of  pur  ^iselui*gcd  s|ores ;  alao  cuttiog 


r 


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8SC0ND  VOrAGE  OV  filSCOVSHT 


i    ■■-. 


^  ■■> 


some  ice  at  our  bows,  that  we  might  have  no  obstruction  to  our 
next  attempt.  The  followine  day  was.withput  chanjE^e  or  interest, 
except  that  more  ice  was  cut,' and' the  ship  hove  a  few,  feet  ahead. 
Every  thing,  hbwever,  was  g6t  on  board  and  stowed.  The  next 
day  did  not  advance  us  even  a  foot.  The  lakes  on  shor^  had  not 
yet  frozen,  though  there  ^was  ice  on  the  pools. 

llth.  The  wind  came  to  the  southward,  but  was  not  sufficient 
to  remove  the  heavy  ice.  The  pool  between  the  island  and  the 
main  was  covered  with  thin  bay  ice,  having  a  very  prognosticating 
evil  aspect;  and  the  temperature  fell  with  the  setting  sun  to 21**. 
We  still  went  on  cutting  the  icev^and  the  ship  was  hove  tf  little 
further  ahead.  The  cold  weather  seemed  really  coming  on,  as  the 
thermometer  by  midnight  was  18°;  and  the  shooting  of  ducks  was 
now  rather  a  vexation  than  otherwise,  since  we  could  see  that  they 
were  returning  to  the  southward. 

1 2th.  The  changes  of  temperature  to-day  were  ver^  unexpected: 
the  thermometer  ranging  from  16"  to  4 1->  between  four  in  the 
morning  and  noon.  The  men  Xvho  went, on  shore  after  church, 
found  the  water,  nevertheless,  completefy  covered  with  bay  ice. 

13M.  Thfere  was  some  damp  snow  on  Monday,  and  though  the 
wind  was  southerly,  it  was  light,  and  had  no  effect  on  the  ice  at  sea. 
In  the  night  tide,  the  ship  was  hove  about  ten  feet  ahead,  and  that 
which  «?e  had  to  cut  through  was  not  fro7en  to  the  union  of  the 
«eparate  fragments.  The  next  day  was  fine  ;  but  this  was  not  fa- 
vourable weather  for  us  who  were  in  want  of  a  gale,  and  that  gale, 
too,  to  be  of  our  own  choosirig.  The  midday  heat  was  "tKe  same. 
The  sight  of  a  hare  that  had  been  shot  wis  by  no  means  gratifying, 
for  it  had  not^  acquired  its  winter  dress. 

iSM^The  wind  having  freshened  in  the  nifi^ht  from  the  southward, 
the  Ice  began  to  move  north  about  the  time  of  higtt  water,  and  after 
daylight  it  was  very  loose,  and  full  of  lanes  ahd  pools.     The  night 
tide  allowed  us  to  heave  some  space  ahead,  and  the  day  one  brought 
us  into  five  fathoms  water,  though  not  two  ships'  length  from  our 
position  of  yesterday.     What  remained  on  shore  of.  iron-work,  an* 
chors,  and  other  things,  were  now,  therefore^  got  on  board:  bu^ 
that  furnished  us  pccupation  for  the  whole  day  J    We  were  conse-' 
quently  ready  to  start  by  evening:  but  the  breeze  died  away,  with 
the  ice  still  drifting  up  and  down  before  the  ti(le»  in  th^  calm. 

|6M.  That  wind  was  of  Tittle  service  to-day,  being  light  and 
unsteady,  between  the  south  and  west ;  but  as  the\  ice  near  us  was 
becoming  slack,  the  ship  was  hove  out  two  cables*, length,  to  take 
idvantage  of  any  opening  that  might  occur.  Some  lanes  of  water 
appeared  in  the  evening,  along  the  shore  to  the  northward.  The 
thermometer  was  40°  in  the  day,  and  29°  at  midnight.  It  fell  to 
89*  before  the  following  morning,  and  there  was  an  aurora  borealis. 
At  daylight  we  could  see  that  the  ice  had  drifted  off  the  Iand,^t 
*hgw>  was  still  a  complete  ridge  between  the  ship  and  a  hrfeof 


\^ 


water  which  led  lu  a  yuiut  three  miles  to  tireTRffthwifff. — XBoqr 


'J 


\^ 


^^r^ 


to  THE  ABOTIO  KEOIONS. 


971 


two  in  the  afternoon,  however,  it  seemed  to  be  breaking  up ;  when 
we  immediately  cist  bff,'warped  through  the  bay  ice  around  us,  and 
in  ha4f  an  hour  our  ship  was  at  length  ortfee  more  in.  clear  waterj 
and  under  sail. 

Under  sail — we  scarcely  knew  how  we  felt,  or  whether  we  quite 
believed  it.  He  must  be  a  seaman,  to  feel  that  the  vessel  which 
bounds,  beneath  him,  which  listens  to  and  obeys  the  smallest  move- 
ment of  his  hand,  which  seems'^to  move  but  under  his  will,  is  a 
thing  of  life,  a  mind  conforming  to  his  wishes ;  not  an  inert  body, 
the  sport  of  winds  and  waves.  But  what  seaman  could  feel  this  as 
we  did,  when  this  creature,  which  used  to  carry  us  buoyantly  over 
the  ocean,  had  been  during  an  entire  year  immovable  as  the  ice 
and  the  rocks  around  tt,  helpless,  disobedient,  dead.  It  seemed  to 
have  revived  again  to  a  new  Ijfe:  it  once  more  obeyed  us,  did 
whatever  we  desired  ;  and  in  addition  to  all,  we  too  were  free.  It 
was  the  first  burst  of  enjoyment  on  the  recovery  of  our  liberty  ; 
but  we  were  not  long  in  finding,  as  other  pijrsitiers  of  other  liberty 
have  found,  that  it  Was  a  freedom  which  was  to  bring  us  no  happiness. 

Thus  free  a|  last,  we  advanced  about  three  miles  ;  but  then  fiM-  , 
ing  a  ridge  *f  ice,  we  were  obliged  to  miike  fast  near  the  point 
which  was  at  that  distance  to  the  north  of  us  ;  and  in  9  sufficiently 
commodious  harbour  between  two  icebergs,  we  passed  the  night. 
We  shot  some  grouse  on  shore,  to  pass  the  time,  and  saw  many 
seals.  The  thermometer  at  midnight  was  fiO". 
^6th.  In  the  meantime,  the  wind  came  round,  unfortunately,  to 
the  southward,  and,  by  mnrning;  our  passage  was  blocked  upj  so 
that  we  were  compelled  to  remain.  In  the  offing,  it  was  sweeping 
up  and  down  before  the  tifle;  and,  in  the  evening,  as  the  wind  be- 
came northerly,  it' went  away  rapidly  once  more  to  the  southward. 
There  was  much  snow  to-day,  and  the  land  was  entirely  covered. 
Four  hares  that  were  shot,  did  not  much  comfort  us  under  this  de- 
tention, however  they  might  varyjour  dinners. 

19M.  ^  gale  had  come  on  suddenly  last  night,  and,  continiiing 
till  high  water,  this  forenoon,  as  it  served  to  raise  that  tide  consi- 
derably, our  bergs  floated,  but  did  not  change  their  position  so  mucK  '- 
as  to  destroy  our  harbour;  while  the  arrival  of  a  large  floe  pro- 
tected us  from  a  pressure  that- was  now  threatening  to  be  consider-, 
able.  Every  space  was  indeed  filled  by  the  ice ;  but  as  the  wind 
erased,  it  did^ot  fix,  being  kept  in  alternate  motion  by  the  tideai. 
In  the  evening  it  was  a  little  more  slack  ;  and  there  was  nothing  in 
this  day  to  make  us  neglect  the  duties  of  Sunday.  The  thermomettt* 
WM*|ft»'' at  midnight. 

«W^,    JJPlie  ice  opened  so  slightly  under  a  westerly  breeze,  that  it 
f^fbdefed  us  no  service ;  and,  as  we  were  frozen  round  by  new  ice> 
'/  Wf  xf^%  obliged  to  cut  around  the  ship.    Our  detention  Wfis  mora    . 
''«|ii^fectly  ass*ured  the  next  day,  by  a  south-easterly  one  in  the  morn- 
>»^»  ifrioging  the  ice  in  upon  u»»    After  m»ny  changesy  it  at  laat  wt- 


p 


4 


-f 


f!.: 


880 


SECOMO  VOTAOB   OV  DISCOVtBT 


(\ 


*» 


HP 


14^.    • 


tied  in  the  norlh-norlh-weiit,  and  blew. a  heavy"  gale.  The  ien 
beipg  Ihiii  aet  in  rapid  motion,  came- in  contact  with  the  ber«. 
whicli  prolecled  u^,  and  forced  them  and  us  together,  onwarda,  tul 
bur  stei'n  was  within  twenty  yards  of  the  rocks.  The  Kruaenslern 
waa  at  the  same  lime  forced  out  of  the  water.  It  was  fortunate  that 
the  icebergs  which  covered  us  were  not  carried  away,  else  we 
shsuld  have  gone  with  them  into  the  moving  pack,  orbeen  driven 
on  the  rocks;  each  of  them  but' hazardous  po8i:iona,  if  not  wj>rae. 
The  temperature  fell  to  48°,  and  there  was  >«now  with  this  gale. 

22d.  It  continued  on  the  next  morning,  yet  the  ice  in  the  bay 
teemed  partially  cleared.  But,  after  this,  coming  to  blow  evep 
harder,  we  were  worse  blo^ed  up  than  before,  though  there  was 
still  a  lane  of  water  in  the  bay.  It  was,  however*  thie  only  clear 
water  visible ;  all  els^  was  a  soUd  surface  of  ice.  At  night  the  wind 
Was  much  more  mo(!erate.  On  the  following  day  there  was  no 
change.  We  were  completely  frozen  in,  and  were  obliged  to  cut 
round  the  ship,  that  she  might  right  herself,  having  been  heeled 
over  by  the  ice. 

S4M.  Th6re  was  a  heavy  fall  of  snow  all  day,  and^^it  continued 
on  the  twenty-fiflh.  The  week  waa  expended,  and  we  werti  Idle 
■nd  immovable.  The  thermometer,  from  having  been  at  24*  for 
the  past  days,  reached  to  30°. 

Stt/A.  There  was  nothing  to  interfere  with  the  services  and  re- 
pose of  Sunday;  and  no  change.  The  temperature,  hqwevery 
seemed  gradually  falling:  it  had  been  but  7°  in  the  night,  ilflU  was 
no  more  than  14°  all  Monday.  A  lane  of  water  waa  seen  near  the 
islands  that  were  next  to  us.  It  became  wider  on  the  following  day  ; 
BO  that,  had  we  not  been  imprisoned,  we  might  have  made  some 
progress  to  the  northward. 

S9(A. 
was  covered  with  bay  ice.  The  surrounding  hummocks  were^slso'^ 
cemented  together  in  such  a  manner,  that  nothing  but  a  storm  could 
separate  them.  ,  Our  hopes  of  a  liberation  were  therefore  faat  paas- 
ing  away ;  and  our  work  was  now  to  cut  through  the  ice,  so  aa  to 
•ttain  a^arbour  thatwas  likely  to  prove  our  home  for  the  better 
pert  of  ilrother  year.  It  waa  found  to  be  a  foot  thick ;  and  as  there 
were  also  many  heavy  pieces  in  ttie  way,  our  progress  was  neces- 
■arily  very  slow,  and  the  labour  hard.  There  was  not  wind  enough 
to  prevent  the  formation  of  bay  ice. 

'  80/A.  Under  the  continuance  of  the  same  low  temperaturei  the 
«rhole  sea  was  now  covered  with  ice.  There  was  no  longer,  there- 
fore, occasion  either  to  hope  or  fear:  and  there  was  an  end  to  all 
■nsiety  at  least.  The  agitation  under  which  we  had  ao  long  la- 
boured had  subsided  into  the  repoiie  of  absolute  certainty.  Our 
winter  prison  was  before  us ;  and  all  that  we  had  now  to  do,  was  to 
raaeh  it,  set  up  our  ampitibious  house,  and  with  one  foot  on  Mt  aad 
mahote, «« take  patience  to  ourKhrei*** 


.w    ««#   «aa^    ifl^a  »■■  TV  aa  «■• 

i.  The  thermometer  fell  to  6°,  and  the  clear  water  of  yeaterday 
»vcred  with  bay  ice.    The  surrounding  hummocks  were  also' 


TO  TUB  ARCTIC  REOIOR8. 


981 


Though  we  had  done  much«  we  still,  however,  found  it  very  hard 
woric  to  cut  through  the  remainder  of*  this  ice,  which,  though  half. 
newly  formed,  was  already  sixteen  inches  thick,  independently^ 
the  broken  pieces  from  the  former  ^nter  that  were  mixed  witK  it. 
Thence,  what  we  Had  cut  oS  was  to  be  lifted  to  the  surface*  as  it 
could  not  be  sunk  under  the  field ;  and,  in  consequence,  we  oidy 
made  eighteen  feet  waydhPtSts  and  the  preceding  day ;  aislow  navi- 
gation, thpugh,.  fortunately,  our  harbour  was  not  very  fiir  off  It 
seemed  almost  a  fated  period  for  us;  as  it  was  the  very  anniver- 
sary  of^  the  day  which  had  fixed  us  not  three  miles  from  the  spot 
vChich  we  were  now  seeking  to  occupy;  while  -weyietd  perhaps 
again  captives — and  who  could  conjecturei^^for  another  year. . 
It  WAS  the  end  of  September;  but  the  summary  of  Se^ember,,  "^^^t 
is  pne  of  the  least  agreeable  that  I  have  yet  to  record.  , ;; 

It  was  now  winter,  without  dispute.  Theoretically,  il  ou^'to 
have  been  such ;  and  that  it  was  practicaltv  so,  we  had  long  beeii 
sure,  whatever  efforts  might  have  been  made  to  flatter  the  naenj  <>C 
ourselves,  that  it  was  otherwise.  It  had  been  a  bus]^.^  a  labo- 
rious month ;  but  it  was  busy  idleness,  as  for  as  any  resut  ^ad  fol- 
lowed, and  a|l  the  labour  had  produced  no  return.  It  was,  in  every 
sense,  a  wasted  month,  and  it  had  been  an  amply  provoking  one : 
there  was  not  one  in  all  the  preceding  year  in  which  we  Jiad  not 
done  something  useful,  or  at  least  made  preparations  for  it ;  thun 
finding  occupation;  diat  satisfied  ns ;  while  there  was  not  one  which 
had  not  held  out,  what  was  even  better,  hopes,  and  those  mo«l 
lively  when  the  chance  of  release  was  most  distant  We  had  now 
to  hope  again,  for  nearly  another  year ;  to  count  months,  weeks, 
even  days,  yet  with  le^s  confidence  than  we  had  done  during  the 
last  winter. 

He  \i||o  can  hope  a  second  time  aa  he  did  the  first,  is  of  a  ttiore 
fortunate  copstitution  than  some  of  our  pbople  se^ed  to  be.  The 
despondent  could  not  conceal  their  feelings;  thoiigh,  of  the  ffreater 
number,  I  am  bound  to  say  that  their  contentedness,  or  rawer  re- 
signation, exceeded  what  I  had  anticipated.  It  was  my  business 
to  show  them  the  brighter  side  of  thisf)ieture,  by  recapitulating  our 
success  in  discovery,  the  excellent  condition  of  our  ship,  the  com- 
fortable home  whicn  we  had  now  learned  to  make  of  i^  our  ample 
stock  of  provisions,  our  good  health  and  peace,  and  the  better  har- 
bour which  we  should  now  secure,  as  it  was  one  also  whence  it 
would  prove  much  more  eady  to  extricate  ourselves  hereafter.  But 
the  bright  side  of  life  is  not  easily  seen  through  the  dark  one;  and 
I  had,  therefore,  to  trust  to  time  and  habit,  and^to  hope  that  be- 
tween our  own  resources  and  the  communications  of  the  mttiviss, 
supplied,  as  we  expected  to  be  by  them,  with  fresh  provisions,  and, 
before  Ions,  with  the  power  of  renewiQg  our  expeditions  by  landi , 
time  would  pass  on,  and  the  present  evils  become  lighter. 

In  raviewmg^  the- weather  and  the  temperature  dunng  this  month/ 


.^^- 


<  > 


i 


i 


w 


•*r-* 


-j.-^. 


\i 


S83 


SEOOHD  VOYAOB  OF  DISCOVERT 


it  is  seen  that  it  was  more  severe  than  that  of  the  prmMiiig  Sep- 
tember;  and  thus,  being  an  earlier  winter,  it  also  •promised  to  be  a 
.  worse  one.  The  highest  and  the  lowest  in  th^^resent  were  4S° 
Uid  5**  pliu,  and  the  mean  27^  43*  plus :  in  t^i^  former,  the  two 
&M  had  been  SO"  and  8'  plus,  and  the  last  SS*"  plus.  In  the  Sep. 
Ismber  of  1839,  there  were  several  j;ales  from  the  west  and  south, 
Which'  cleared  the  coast  in  such  a  manner  that  it  could  often  h^ 
AftvigctM;  but  in  the  present  one,  there  had  not  been  a  singfe 
breen  from  thosf,  quarters,  capable  of  making  anv  impression  on 
tl|»  ide.  On  the.  contrary,  there  had  been  several  gales  from  the 
Mlrthward }  so  that  as  fast  as  tiiat  which  was  in  the  southern  part 
(if  this  sea  dissolved,  the  (q[>aoe  was  filled  by  the  arrival  of  heaVier 

fas  as  if  the  northern  ocean  were  send- 
sr ;  and  we  knew  that  it  was  now 
an  inexhaustiUe  supply;  while,  aa if 
the  blockade  was  not  already  sufficiently  complete,  every  little  shift 
of  wted  from  the  north  to  the  eastward,  filled  up  the  little  ba;^s 
whieh  mi^t  have  dforded  us  a  retreat  Bad,  too,  as  this  was  in 
Itself,  it  wai  rendered  much  more  eflectually  so  by  the  state  of  the 
lides,  wittoh  did  not  allow  these  masses  ,to  float  agaitf,  when  once 
agvouod ;  so  that  th^  could  not  be  removed,  even  though  we  had 
euC  th«n,  while,  when  once  taking  the  diore,  thev  became  as  much 
t  part  of  it  during  the  ensuing  season,  as  the  rocks  themsdves.  > ' 

I  need  not,  in  this  summary,  go  back  to  any  ^neral  record  of 
tte  i^)'s  proceedings  or  our  own;  they  offer  less  interest  than 
ntoali  and  we  Iwd  not  been  in  a  situation  to  make  any  observations 
«f  moment  Our  sporting  calend&r  presents  little  more  than  some 
IMtbM  fiiii^  iKt  seals,  aiMl  the  ineflnctual  pursuit  of  a  white  bear. 


masses  finom  (he  north, 
ing  all  its  stores  into  this  qu 
the  unquMtionable  parent  ot 


r^- '■♦    1-    -J 


■.<*  ■^■^^-■ 


'lit 


,   »   ,         ,         ,  vr  Ijf.         \' 


"-^7- 

ni« 

■* 

.     •            *■  ' 

at 

fr 

Tc 

*^^^#v 

' 

.m:JL 

■^v^-- 


TO  THB  ABOTio  asaioits. 


988 


i  i 


;  f     ' 


=fc 


CftdPTER  XXXIV. 


Liibour ineutHngf/iroug/rthe  ice— Become Jixed for  themtita^ 
»     T  \,  Summary  of  the  month.   :v<  #      i 

Oct  \.  OoTOB»»  commenced  with  clear  weather,  and,  in  tha 
course  of  the  day,  a  strong  breeze  from  the  westward  broke  un  ao 
muchx)f  the  bay  ice  to  le  north-east  a«  to  dispUy^Uttle  dear 
water,  h  made  no  impression,  however,  on  the  rough  ice  which 
was  attached  to  the  land;  and  one  of  the  bergsnw  us  "jj^wp^ 
under  our  quarter^  wo  received  a  violefnt  concussion.  The  labour 
of  cuttuw  our  way  was  renewed,  and  with  rather  better  laccesi.  i 
Thethe?mometerwiai  W°  at  ni^t.  %d.  On  Satur^ty  Aawwaa 
little  change,  except  that  our  labonr  was  harder;  and  m  Ibis 
position  we  ended  another  week.  •.^.>.^  \ijn, 

80.  We  were  obliged  to  persevere  in  the  samejiadioui  t^l 
and  the  whole  gain  was  but  sixteen  feet,  which,  however,  released 
us  from  the  pressure  of  the  icebergs.  This  had  been  very  mcop*. 
venient,  if  nof  more;. since  they  rose  above  her  gunwale,  and  W 
lifted  her  up  in  such  a  manner,  as  to  suspend  dm  tteee  or  lour  teet 
hiffher  than  the  water  which  she  drew.  4<A.  The  Holiday  mom- 
ins  came  with  a  gale,  which  btoke  off  some  pieces  of  ice,  Jwt  ««»- 
dSed  us  no  serw».  Our  labours  only  gimed  as  an  MMtoonal 
advance  of  othej-  sixteen  feet  Tfee  thermometer  adhered  to  80 , 
and  there  was  drift  snow  at  times.  _^  / 

6/A.  It  became  more  moderate,  and  more  fiivo«ri*le  to  ow 
operations;  in  conseqwnce  6f  which  we  advanced  eighteen  ftet> 
iSre  WM  ihotvin  the  day.  and  a  gate  firom  the  north  m  ^  eVJC 
inK.thenightthermometerfellingtolS*'.  At  daylight  on  thBsigh, 
the  weather  wm  fine,  and  the  breeies  had  broken  up  the  new  bg 
ice  to  the  northward,  so  as  again  to  show  some  cljar  y«*«f'_™» 
ship  was  cut  in  as  far  as  twenty  feet  mtore;  bemg  thus  much  MU«r 
to  our  intended  position  for  the  winter.  Being  calm  and  clB«  « 
night,  the  temperature  fell  to  10*.  ^     .    .     ,     ..iu-*«.»-^ 

Uh.  We  advanced  fifty  feet  this  day,  but  had  onjr «  feet  waljr 
at  the  ebb:  though  we  were  now  at  tength  clear  w,»^»»»2[*J 
Towards  the  foltowing  morning,  the  thermometer  feU  to  ft  ;  •!»>  •» 


\ 


i 

■  1  ■    '  ^ 

* 

■'  '  .:; 

t 

• 

^ 

,) 

t 

■  v* 

■  • 

• 

•Jv 

ST 

* 

■    • 

V- 

•   ♦ .  ■ 

■ 

f'    ■ 

I 

•   |« 

/.   ' 


f 


•v ,  »^ 


•ML 


964 


s^iiD  yoYAfls  or  discovert 


\ 


davligbt,  Ihere  mis  not  an  atom  of  water  to  be  seen  in  any  direction. 
AU  jNfai  ice  f  ana  it  is  reinarkable,.that  this  day  was  the  anniversary  . 
x^  of  the  Mune  event  in  the  preceding  yeav.  We  however,  gained  fifty 
feet  more;  aqd,  on  the  followinfs  day,  forty ;  but  being  now  but  in 
three  ieet  water,  we  were  obliged  to  ehore  the  vessel  up.  The  ther- 
mometisr  had  been  always  low,  and,  on  fliis  night,  wa8/>nly  2°;  but« 
»    t|ie  weather  was  calm  and  clear.   •■      ' 

.  ip'A*  Itwas  now  apparent,  that  we  should  soon  be  obliged  to 
.  4 .  *dd|)t  the  negative  scal6 'of  the  thermometer  as  well  as  the  positive.  • 

«  «taod  at  zero  thi«  morning;  and  it  had  not  reached  that  point  last 
year,  till  the  10th  of  the  same  mbbtfi.    We  were  thus  obliged, 
'igftin,  tp.labour  on  Sunday;  since  another  forty-eight  hours  of  such 
frost,  would  render  it  extremely  difficujt  to  cul  the  ship  in;  as  the 
■    ice  arouiid  heir  was,  even  now,  thiee  and  four^eet  thick.    Nor  had 
'  We  ifiade  more  than  the  half  of  our  needful  voyage;  while  it  was  ■' 
ftbflolutply  necessary  for  her  safetjf^j  that  she  should  be  removed  to 
\^  we  ^her^  she  could  float,  .which  was  not  lea  than  a  hundr^ 
^f'*™soffi^We  gained  but  thirty  feet  by  all  our  exe^^^ 
,,  IIM.  The  weather  did  not  change,  and  we  advanced  fohy-sfive* 
f<Mt    On  the  next  haoming,  a  fog  covered  tfee  rigging  with  ice, 
itmite  gaii^  as  taiich  more.    The  thirteenth  was  a  beautiful  clear 
ittid  cdni  day;  and  I  found,  when  on  shore,  that  the  sun  melted  the  ' 
snow  ufNiinjBe«pcks,  though  the  noon  temperatdrewas  as  low  as  8°, 
fmng  to  r  at  naidnight*    Other  forty^five  feet  were  gained  by  cut- 
^^^'  ■  ■     -■■■../         ,^  ,•■•"'■■■  .     ■ 

■^4/Ai  fo  the  course  of  this  foreno9n, 'there  was  a  gale  from  the 
^  ireit^lvith  8i]M>w,raism^  |he  thermometer  to  12°,  and  at  last  to  22", 
iC,ttidnieht  More  orthe  can^l  i^as  cut,  but  the  wind  prevented 
liHlf  from  heaving  the  ship  into  it.  This  gale  increased  in  force  till 
ttie  B()6|y|a|(  of  the  M^th,  wHien  it  fell  cftlm ;  and  .we  could  see 
mat  the  nJew  ice  h»  the  offing  haid  been  once  more  broken  up,  so  as 
to  thb\i^  BOintf  dfear  water,'  The  shiip,  was  advanced  fifty  teet  this 
day,  and  forty-five  wa  the  followilkg ;  but  she  did  not  yet  float  at  low 
waters  '^The  weather  was  variable,  and  the  thermome^r  did  not 
mi^rially  alter.  %  v 

A7th,  A  week,  a  second  week,  bad  done  Uttle  for  us,  and  we  were 
obliged  to  make  Sundajr  once  more  a  <)ieyof  work,  thus  advancing' 
^ityieet    A  gale,  which  had  arisen  the  nidit  before,  continued 
tut  noon..  We  gained  twenty  more  on. the  Monday,  and  saw  that 
the  cleartnter  to  the  northward  had  enlarged.    The  following  day 
our  prpgresa  was  thirty;  while  the  ice  w?8  so  heavy,  that  we  were     ■ 
obliged  tb  heave  the  pieces  up  by  the  capstan.    From  the  shoiel .  ' 
could  see  that  .the  ice  was  forming  again  in  the  water,  which  thev\ 
gale  had  cleared  dpring  the  precetung  days. 
^80/A.  The  temperature  fell  from  lSFto4°.  ,  We  gained  thirty 
feet  in  advance,  but  found  the  ice  rapidly  increasing  in  thickness* 
On  the  twenty-first  our  progress  waa  fortyfeet,  and  we  had  entirely 


fT' 


YO  tiriAROtiO  RKOIORS. 


285 


lost  right  of  the  ekMur  water.  A  strong^^le,  with,  snow,  impeded 
this  work  on  the  followins  morning  ;«^ut  m  the  evening  we  gained 
fourteen  feet  which  eoabfed  tu  to  float  at  low  water.  On  the  neM 
day  we  gained  as  many  more.  Daring  these  four  days  the  weather 
had  varied  mufeh,  and  the  temperature  changed  with  it;  but  it 

-  'was.  generally  higher  than  it  had  lately  been,  and  was  this  nkrht 
at2P..  ' 

'      34/4  It liras  necessary  again  to'occupy  Sunday,  as  before;  and  , 

\  '  the  work  was  harder  than  usuftl,  since  the  ice  was  about  rixteen 

feet  thick.    It  was  too  heavy,  therefore,  to  lift,  even  when  it  was 

_    cut,  nor  could  we  sink  it :  so  that  we  were  obliged  to  cut  ai  spraic? 

,,_&r>;the  fragments  in  the  thinner  surrounding  neld,  that  we  might 

lodge  them  on  it,  and  th)i8  make  room  to  pass  by.    What  was 

^,done,  was  not,  however,  finished  in  time  to  enable  us  to  heaye  the 

shipwiy  further  in  advance!  V  - 

35/A.  This  was  alfine  dear  day,' but  the  theraiometw  M'iuM 

below  vro.    Out  appaiirently  endless  work  Wail  resumed ;  and  on 

the  following  day  the  heavy  piece  in  our  way  was  removed,  and 

,'  the  place  for  its  reception  was  cut  so  as  to  allow  us  to  advance 

'  forty  feet    On  the  next  lire  gained  fifty,  and  were  at  length  afloat 

at  low  water.    We  had  seen  a  go6d  many  hared,  foxes,  and  birds, 

fotf  some  days  pa^t,  daring  our  walks  on  the  shore,  but  hlid  shot  lit^ 

tie  or  nothing.        ■  ^  ;\ 

28/A.  Hie  weather  seemed  to  have  seriously  cjianged  this  day « 
the  temperature,  from  ^ro,  in  the  morning,  went  down  to  minus 
10?  at  night.  20/A.  The  snow  on  shore  was  kinee  deep,  and  made 
walking  very  laborious^  We  guned  but  thirteen  jeet;  the  ice 
being.very  thick',  and  freezing  again  as  fast  as  it  was  cut  On  the 
next  we  advanced  fourteen  more,  so  9\  to  have  eleven  feet 'at  low 
water;*  There  was  snotir  at  ni^t,  and  the  temperature  rose  to  fS* 
plus. 

80/A.  We  now  cut  six  fieet  further;  it  was  not  much,  and  there 
were  two  hundred  yarda^rismaining  before  we  could  obtain  deeper 

.  water  or  a  better Jposition,  being  work  for  a  hundred  more  da[^s,  at 
the  same  rate.  Uut  the  ice  was  daily  becoming  so  much  thicker, 
tjiat  we  coidd  not  hope  to  make  apy  impression  on  it  during  that 

'  nme,  at  all  proportional  to  whi^t  we  had  already  eflfected ;  and  as 
our  place  was  at  Jeast  not  very  unsafe,  hemmed  in  as  we  were  all 
round  by  ice,  we  concluded  oapptting  ip  endtb]  our  labours  and 

.,4   and  remaining  as  we  were.    Sl«/.  We  could,  therefore,  at  length 

>     make  Sunday  a  day  of  prayer  and  rest,  nor  was  that  less  accepta- 
ble than  necessary. 
The  Summary  of 'October  can  be  little  but  the  abstract  of  oar 

~^  labours,  since  the  whole  month  had  been  employed  in  making  a 
worse  than  tortoise  progress,  the  entire  ajnount  of  which,  after  all 
our  toils,  W|is  but  eight  nundred  and  fifty  feet  We  had  not  even,. 
with  all  this,  reach^  the  place  that  we  had  intended ;  we  were. 


t^'i 


I^ 


V 'i 


.?  Tii 


{ 


>i 


""»■»....««!■? 


, .  "»• 


ate 


SDOOIIO  VOTAIHp  OF  mtooxKir 


iiowe<rer,  not  yery  farirom.it*  and  were  compiled  to  be  ai  con- 
tent as  we  coMld.  I  believe  that  some  of  ut  could  not  help  calcu- 
latiiw  the  n'umber  of  centuries  it  would  require  to  make  a  single 
nort&west  passage,  at  this  rate;  as  others  speculated  on  the  pre- 
miums that  »nughtbe  demanded  at  Lloyd's  on  such  a  voyage;  could, 
indeed,  one  tean  have  been  found  to  <*  write  it" 

If  our  fdace  was  not  very  i)|isafe,  it  was  by  no  means  a  denrable 
one.  Yet,  comparatively,  it  was  agreat  sain:  since  had  we  remained  . 
m  the  shallow  water,  suspended  on  icebergs,  the  shu>  woidd  have 
been  idmost  uninhabitable,  from  her  motions  and  chamm  of  posi- 
tiwi,  and  might  also  have  been  destroyed.  .  If  the  graduaUy  increas- 
ing thickness  of  the  ice,  added  to  the  necesaty  orheaving  iqp  what 
could  not  be  BQxk  in  the  usual  manner,  and  tq  the  oflten  severe  wea- 
ther, rendered  tins  an  unutnially  laborioin  milHitb  to  the  people,  the 
toil  seemed  to  call  forth  the  zeal  and  display  the  perseverance  of 
ei^rv  man.  .  No^opie^s  health  was  affected;  and  on  the  whole,  there 
had  been  a  not  unexpected  advantage  in  thi^  peipetual  occupation, 
sinde  it  had  diverted  their  attention  from  their  obivious  sulqect  of 
grievance  and  trained  them  to  a  new  detention,  for  another  win- 
ten  \  .y  ,.-;-^ ^      '■-.'  ■-'•■■.,;   .  ^  ;■..;:'  .:;-.,.;■  r-  ■■ 

As  we  were  now  to  commence  a  fresh  residencfe,  for  little  less 
than  another  year,  at  the  best,  having  jedready  undergone  one  of 
thirteen  months,  it  became  proper  to  take  an  account  of  our  provi- 
sions, and  to  regulate  the  expenditure  and  the  nature  of  the  diet  for 
the. period  on  which  we  were  entering.  These  details  can  have 
little  interest  for  general  i^eaders;  but  as  it  is  in  such  thin^  tlwt 
navigators  seek  for  information,  they  cannot  be  (waitted :  whiter  foi^ 
the  convenience'  of  the  latter,  and  not  to  occupy  the  time  of  th4 
former,  I  shall  here  state  them  in  the  briefest  manner,  as  the  origi- 
nal report  was  drawn  up.  ' 


,  ^ 


iin 


:  % 


TO 


ASOnO  RMIOII8. 


W7^ 


^  iV«M«iMW  M  l«M^  4  ^  Ficl*y  m  AtJSntif  Otbitr,  ieSO» 
ttiA  Hu  Airmgmnt$  Of  muh  fir  tki  Btaft  ««. 


""It' 


lb. 

7998 

8164 


Andraw'afioarlGlidK 
Soott's  floor  7  Ms.  ooprtuniag 
Fury's  floor  8  omI 

BBedwy'o  awt  S6  Ih.  Fory*!^  Id0«>  1080  ilr. 
Bedwtffk  nUM  700,i»«pd  >|00«S000do. 


8dt  bNf  3844  Ok  Mb  pork  5350  lb.  m6\Si 


lb." 


'PrafbrajHnftraS 

«  -ISJIU 

Raniilnf  onbd.  17,3M 


This  maf/tan 
iwbwl 


LMithuiferSTMn     SISO 
But  wMi  1-18  aBoiMaw  6r 
irai*  wai  aolylut  to  Jqm 
J      1,1833. 
1  Ptropottioa  ofialtbetC 
l_  pork« and pnaorred     .._::!____ 
f     niMilftr37  13.081 

J  —    nm'i^xKihi.    184150 
oBtiialT  in  Mit  pork;  Itm-  bdnig  with  oHotiuoo         /^    ^  ^ 
only  3i  of  pork  -      A,     -       "       v        ■»!*•***• 


Mnr3bdaudI1toK 
Ftai7  8|B.104»llik 


littBedirdlll84nK  '  1 
lifc  .  .  .  8333  f 
.       .A  ^        80j 


1  ftt  91  TCOfO  iadod-. 

WwMte  3838 

B&finoiidnc  on  booid     •     3738 

Qnintitro^oasw,dibrtor3joari.ftam0olober  1,1830.  .       .     Ibm  90\ 

Coooo  6  eueo,  termed  BedmD,  595  :nir7^boRd%  614  — 1309  Ibo.    Fraportian\ 

Ibr37e>nl3711b.    Dift  163 lb. lev thuitTOyeui> proportion. 

V  RBtdie  163ibactfiirtwoyeonaMdegoadbrte»l  dxrt,  83  Ik  1-6  ditto,  14  lb, 

whiA  will  oomiMoteoandooooo  fir  two  yeonk  ^ 

F^i. ipl^7)  eufci,  18  bwfi.i6  galL;  roond  da  1  boff,  3  boib.  6  galL  «  33  budi.  4 

gaU.    Fh»artionftrtwoy«ua,33bDdi.4'gdL»ehartartwoyeuo,10bodh. 
Spiriti,  ram,  130  gdL;  tUM,350  lb.;  Lemon-joioe  fir  one  ywr  at  the  prennt  oDow- 


PieklMbd aoMdl  OMkf :  dieed  kmoB 9  eaaeo;  Moatard  3  bono;  Bailej  3  eaik%and  » 

iaro.  - '  ' 

11uaboidMh«orpreaerfedaoape,fllwbidiwohaTB  100  gall,  wbidi,tog«diar  with 
aoaAtfwina,atoreaar«^fir-dw8iok.  Fbidia(,tfaMroibro,aittwodioaH  hoTopran. 
aioM  at  dw  iDowasM  hMt  oofBidmt  to  aavport  natnre  in  tiM  dfanato,  oatil  the  period  In 
1883,  «im  nvflMathBtoddMrNnehad  Ok  Fmy'aatoro  grannd  where  time  are  rtiU  aome 
nmMm  hk,  or  anat  abandon  te  aUp  to  aave  oar  lifea,  we  dXwmiiiad  to  aako 
Oe  fiOowint  ananganaatias  aDggaalad,  biy  Hr.  Thorn;  iHiieh, by  ginnf  the  men  a 
eoimday  ando  maatday  aUimatdyidiimf  ■xmantha,to  oemmanooftomthefiratof 
Nofmbar,  1830,  appsMod  to  vi^  dw  diet  betlei  dnm  any  odier  edMm  wUflh  wo  flooU 


1.  Moadiy-4poandealtbeerttd|poBndarfloiir.      ■^  ^  j_  , 
9.  TtaMd^>-4  pomd  pimerwd  aiaat.  and  |  poond  ditto  with  bariiy  u  aoqp. 
8.  Wtdneaday^l  papad  of  port,  wA  pjpae  eoap.  _^ 

4.  t1miday-4  pma^  of  ptoaKrad  maat  witt  i  pound  ti  proaemd  meat  with 

hariay  aoan. 
».FHdB|^  pomd  of  aaltbaei;  and  I  pound  of  floor.     ..  ;   .  >.    . 

8.  8^ind^>--|pMiid  «r  pioainod  amt  with  |  pooMl  of  ditto  IMda  faiM  bulijr 


7  flMilij    I  pond  oTpoA  with  , ^ 

aMaadM^paadorpnHmdiMatawithTaietableeoiq^   tlmthei 
hm  aoM  oa  aiz  dm  00*  of  of«7  aigfat-«ld  on  the  o«hv  two,  beef  and 

iililll  iMiiiiililii  ■iiiiiimliiii  ii  dial  wooU  bo  oMafaiad.    Thoa  wo  trartad  On* 
haaMi  and  alMvft  woold  bo  kipt  op.  N  aa  to  anaUe  thai  to  go  Orai^  tho  ftiiftrii  of 

imimif  hUhonri^I. > 


I 


M 


Hi 


'  i^ 


■  \ 


1 1 . 
1 


w. 


^l 


i  * 


38R 


"V 


SBOORD  VOTAOB  QV  DiaOOVBRT 


•  tlie  place  of  the  ship,  I  must  now  remark,  was  in  a  bay  extend* 
ing  to  the  south,  after  entering  the  inlet  to  the  eastward,  which  was 
termed  Sheriflf^  bay,  while  the  point;  to  the  east  was  called  Watch 
point  -  ^ 

Though  the  clear  water  in  the  oj9ii^  did  not  reach  so  far  South 
as  in  the  preceding  year,  it  was  16nger  open :  and  notwithstanding 
the  occasional  severity  of  theisold,  the  mean  temperature  was  higher 
by  five'  degrees  than  in  the  corresponding  month  of  1829;  the  high* 
est  having  been  24,  and  the  lowest  12.  It  closed  also  at  plus  34°, 
being  40'degreeti  higher  than  on  the  final  day  of  last  October. 

On  the  whole,  having  but  the  surgeon  to  spare  for  the  chate,  the 
produce  in  hares  had  been  respectable;  but  this  tract  having  been 
the  residence  of  the  Esquimaux  in  the  preceding  year,  the  animals 
in  general  had  been  frightened  away  or  extermmated*  The  place 
where  we  were  now  fixed  was  very  near  to  the  huts  which  they 
had  then  inhabited. 


i-.\' 


■m- 


i^nicn  iney 

1 

* 

av« 

ten 

,    -■      ^ 

bee 

.  /        .     ,y 

nie 

-'■■■■ 

con 

;  ■                .  ■  '■^~"'- 

nej 

wo 

■    ;       w.         .     ■  ■ 

(>    anc 

•  »          ■ 

■    .     ■      * 

'     ■•   ■    , 

^we 

■•'  ■       / 

ing 

t8 

■  /    • 

lov 

x 

'       X  chi 

/                           ■  > 

V           ( 

■..'■•'. 

wo 

.    -•''  \        '"''._■ 

mn 

^*    --.r  f-  .' y  r       ■. 

^              MM 

■'               ■          ■        r,           ■" 

:.\-  .  y« 

■v-   ■        .•', 

>•■■?     ■    rai 

ele 

v-..i'',#:  •■■■■ 

six 

nui 

1 

,   ^^.^.•           ;  ,     ; 

■ . ■  • -.  •■ . ■  ■ 

Ul 

■  '-';-'.,'.-=.■  '    ■    ■-■    ■'■      ■■    ■■'■ 

■'•.  ws 

1      ■ 

:'.-^y- ,:  ^  J^t 

V      -  '  bei 

:-;>N^i^;-^--..     ■: 

:n<i 

.      .,.■■.■:':,.',>,:-        ■ 

gn 

h' 


in 


ixtend* 

.h  was 

. 

iVatch 

«oath           / 

inding 

higher 

1  high- 

is34°, 

r. 

te,the 

5  been 

limals 

place 

1  they 

%:  ' 


TO  TBI  AAQTia  RKOIOM* 


CHAPTER  XXXV. 


». 


>:-.  ) 


Tranahetioru  in  November — Summary  of  that  Month— Proceed' 
ings  in  Jkeembert  with  a  Summary*' 

Nov.  Ut.  Tan  month  hegjon  at  least  favourably;  th^  temperature 
averagbg  21"  plus,  with  winds  varying  both  in  direction  and  in- 
tensity.   To  commencd^our  winter  preparations,  the  sails  were  un- 
bent,  and  the  topmasts  unrigged  and  taken  down.    On  thefollowing 
^ay,  it  blew  a  hard  gale,  whick^  afterwards  moderated,  and  the 
%erm(Mneter  fell  to  mmus  4°.    The  raftering  for  the  ship's  roof  was 
commenced,  and  ii  was  continued  on  the  rollovring  day.    On  t^e 
'next  it  blew,  with  snow,  so  hard,  that  the  men  were  confined  tQ 
work  below.    It  was  from'  the  north ;  but  the  winds  changed  much, 
0   and  the  thermometer  also  varied  between  zero  and  plus  34**. 

5th.  This  day  the  roof  was  covered  with  sails:  the  valleys  and 
mfines  on  the  shore  were  filled  wiUi  snow.  The  condensing  tanks 
^ere  replaced  in  their  old  position.  6th.  On  Saturday  our  cover- 
ing was  completed,  the  deck  cleared,  and  many  matters  put  to  rights. 
There  was.snow  on  both  days,  and. the  temperature  did  not  fall*be> 
lowSS^i^us.  Sunday  was  a  di^  of  rest  sand  the  regularly  of  our 
\  church  service  was  re-Mtabluriied. 

'  8th.  It  snowed  so  hard  in  the  forenoon,  that  the  men  cou^  not 
work  outside :  but  there  was  plenty  of  work  in  ,tbe  hoM.  On  the 
ninth  they  were  eiAployed  in  breaking  upi  the  smm  toond  the  ship, 
and  OB  the  following,  in  banking  it  up,  as  they  Vd  don»  last 
year.  The  weather  on  those  two  days  varied  Ai^ch,  and  tba 
range  of  thermometer  was  firom  plus  10**  to  minus  1^**;  but,  on  the 
eleventh,  there  came  on  a  very  severe  snow-s<onn,^wliich  lairted 
sixteen  hours;  the  temperature  varying  betwem  minus  3**  and  mi- 
nus 16**.  ,  .       ^ 

13/A.  No  work  could  have  been  done  outside  yesterday,  but 
it  being  fair  and  moderate  to-day,  the  embankment  went  on.  It 
was  not  less  fine  on  the  next,  but  the  thermometer  fell  to  minus  80^ 
being  the  towest  we  had  yet  experieneed.  On  the  same  d&v  in  last 
November,  it  vraf  ptus  Se" ;  making  the  great  difierenc*  ol  49  ^ 
■  ■  'grees..      .   /■  ,  ■  ^    ,.  ..,  -,» 

,  88 


\  :i 


/•      ." 


■'  \ 


S90 


SECOND  yOTAOB  OF  DIKOTKRT 


frf 


\- 


14th.  It  was  a  clefr  and  calm  Sunday,  but  cold  enough,  as 
the  thermometer  fell  to  minus  20°.  A  bright  aurora  boreal^s  was 
the  only  noticeable  evenL  They  had  been  rare  or  absent  for  a  long 
time.  A  fire-hole  was  cat  in  the  ice  on  Monday,  add  the  embank- 
ment wont  on.  An  overcast  sky  on  the  next  day  caused  the  ther- 
mometer to  rise  five  or  six  degrees,  but  there  was  otherwise  no 
change,  either  in  the  weather  or  our  proceedings. 

1T0«  Things  were  only  varied  this  day  by  a  little  snow,  and 
by  ouir  men  ^being  empibyed  in  preparations  for  the  observatory, 
which  they  were  occupied  in  constructing  during  the  following  day 
and  the  next,  when  it  became  cold  enough  to  depress  the  thermo- 
meter to  minus  80°.  On  the  twentieth  Uie  }abour  of  observation 
recomtnenoed,  and  some  transits  were  noted.  2Ut  If  the^«ur- 
nal  of  a  week  ift  thus  merger,  there  iff  nothing  new  to  be  re- 
marked respecting  Sunday. 

93nd.  The  chief  Variety  of  this  day  was  the  taking  of  a  black 
^k  in  did  trapi  beitag  the  first  {that  we  had  sera  this  season.  It 
wlls  yoting  tad^rted;  and  inlmediately  devoured  what  was  of- 
ftited ;  we  mV^it  the  place  which  had  been  rendered  vacant  by 
thd  dekth  df  a  fonMr  ^te  one.  A  pillar  for  the  thermometer  was 
ehscled  bn  tfie  foDowihg  day.  'fUth.  The  ordinary  works  went 
Hh  aH  lisual^  thei  leather  jprkdually  becoming  colder,  though  dear; 
iMid  thai  s6v6r«il  trabsittt  were  obuiitied. 

MtAs.  The  thermometer  was  at  80°  minus,  and  the  mercury 
froze  for  the  first  Ume.  It  has  been  thought  that  mercury  expanded 
Mk  codllilg,  like  nfianv  other  tnetals,  and  would  therefore  brealrthe 
btilb  df  a  th6hii6Ai9tor.  This  doea  not  happen;  and  therefore  it 
ootittilcti  iiiMeid  of  eipanding,  like  lead*  tin,  and'  many  mora. 
ThS  Mm  did  hbt  Hiti  aikOrh  thei  southern  hill*  to-dav;  and  was  there- 
foM  fibf  MMti  fi^m  the  ship,  thbogh  visible  from  the  higher  grounds 
tth  shbii;  it  iifrd*  the'  fintt  naming  of  a  very  lohg  night  to  come. 

S6/A.  The  two  last  days  of  this  iveek  were  without  interest 
bt  immtt.  TTM.  The  wetttbef  was  alternately  gloomy  and 
eleai^,  now  ilhdiheb  ^itoatettfai^  MMht,  and  the  thermometer  rose 
Ut  mttiB  16^  9B$h.  On  Suo^y  it  was  11°,  and  the  history  of 
VttumtUfmimf  a  as  i^uatL  On  the  preceding,  the  work  of 
MfibatUiu^t^iiMl  dlieir  ihatteri,  hed  teen  ffoing  on*  ' 

MMi  '  Tfte  toMimk  heUot  Mild  and  (be,  I  walked  tb  the  plaee 
^Mjs»^  m  sftirf  R«»iHiitereddilniig  tbelait  teason.  I  found  that 
6ii^  eM  harMinr  ^#i«  thuch  wore  faawpAMd  ivkh  heavy  ice  tfaati  it 
had  then  been :  as  was  the  case  equally,  with  the  bay.  I  certainly 
Vhoum  mt  fMim  eae  pteferiMe,  iosepeiidently  of  the  fact  df  its 
Bein|  ho  micK  fW^  to  the  north,  which  was  ouf  intended  diree^ 
tiliHk  It,  Ijtaleerf,  HHitis  trifling  ib  talk  ef  two  or  three  milee  as  a 
mil  imt»  m0\  l^t  When  H  ia  ^eeoUedted  that  #e  ware  i 
meilth  ikVli^li%  y6iHtel)r  tfuree  hundred  yarde^  and  iimi  the  locl^ 
diance  of  being  present  when  and  where  the  ice  opens,  be  that  1^ 


TT^^'' 


TO  THV  AROTIO  RBGIOai. 


891 


for  an  hour  or  two,  may  turn  the  balance  between  a  free  escape 
and  a  winter's  imprisonment  in  this  •*  thick-ribbed  ice/'  even  two 
miles  were  a  subject  of  congratulation.  ,     ' 

I  now  thought  it  adviseable  to  set  up  some  direction  posts  for  thb 
natives,  as  it  was  probable  they  would  come  here  before  long  t^ 
seek  for  the  ship.  These  marks  simply  pointed  to  her  nresent 
place,  and  that  was  sufficient  We  mighteven  have  conclooed  that 
they  Would  seek  for  us  till  they  found  us,  since  their  interest  in  the 
matter  was  greater  than  ours,  as  far  as  opinions  went,  at  least; 
thou^  ours  wa^not  smidl,  when  we  expected  to  obtain  firesh  pro- 
visions,  of  some  lund,  from  them.  I  saw  neither  animal,  nor  trace 
of  one,  in  this  wa». 

80/A.  Yesterday,  and  this  day,  the  men  lodged  the  powder  Ui 
a  magazine,  which  they  had  constructed  on  shore.  It  was  a  fine 
day,  and  we  went  to  the  mountains  to  look  for  the  sun,  but  a  fog- 
bank  obscured  the  meredian  horizon.  A  flag-staff  was  erected  on 
the  hill,  to  aid  the  natives  in  finding  the  ship.  The  temperature  wap 
from  11°  to  18**  minus.  It  was  the  end  of  another  month,  but  itji 
summary  is  not  such  as  to  present  any  variety  or  interest. 

In  point  of  tenmeraturQ,  It  had  promised  favourably  aa  far  as  the 
tenth;  but,  after  Uiat,  the  weather  became  very  severe,  though  re- 
covering a  little  towards  the^nd.  The  mean  waa  4|  less  than  in 
the  last  corresponding  month.  The  mercury  froze  also  on  the 
twenty-fifth;  and,  though  some  bacbliiercury  had  from  with  us  on 
the  seventeimUi  o^  December,  when  the  temperatura  was  but  97" 
minus,  it  ivas  not  till  the  fourteenth  of  January  that  it  reached  ai>^ 
so  aa  to  freeze  that  which  was  pure.  The  period  of  the  real  fram- 
ing of  oMrcury,  between  the  two  seasons,  differed  therefinw  ky 
nearly  two  months. 

Having  reserved  the  meteordogical  tables  to  ttn  appendix,  I 
have  not  bitherto  introduced  any  such  record  into  the  journal  of 
our  transactions ;  but  as  many  readers  will  never  consmt  those,  I 
here  add  a  specimen  df  the  present  cbmpariaon,  which  will  at  laaat 
show  the  manner  of  this  registry. 


3.    ■    >v 


^ 


>     ^ 


-.*.'Sa 


'  <•  i'> 


i   ,  ■> 


^&: 


»  T 


f^ 


!•  : 
111 


4. 


AbHmt 


ssoovo;  vorAOB  or  oisoomr 
,     (pi»WW  ««  1899,  .11  tt«  JS^      ^^ '^'^  •'^^ 


■■A. . 


/^ToMi*rfglrt-iOoi,7i6'J~  ****•"«•«    ^^    15"^»S    10O.866 
(TsMUaiglit 

183M0. 


St-  many^^'^^  *°-^'  ^i'"»   «».^3 


f -f '4*^' 


.7SS.615       40;7a3.6«     $0,616       4oiM)0     40.6683 


>i^»Ww«i.l836a«p9,Jy4dv«i,.d7.4* 


>i8se 
»5 


«*'9A.a.86.667&87 

■tS^r.ii.S6.6366S 

/'  .     ■»»»«<  41.19) 


aeration.  ^  *"**  ""*'  ^"^  «  moit  important  consi- 

than  in  tSprecoZf^r'^^hfl  mZ.^;**  uT.T  ^'^'k  *»"er 

Mii:ib^si?co:iiStionr.5^^^ 

waVand  aXw  J23  "y  snow 

ment  had  gifen  a  SHLTimtioSi    rJ^"-  Jhe  transit  instru. 

and  I  had  ^^n  rbSSSe  AafZlTSS  l^fj^}^  ^^^'' 
not  alittbo^  tTtSbSJSi^ -^  of  themen  waa 

and  body  fully  &c^I^^*  •"'*'**'  ^^^  kept  both  the  mind 

in^bu  ili' tlSii^r  «^'!2^°*  of  December  to  the  feel-  ^ 
iSVnthetakT^Twol^.^^^  The 

two  Willow  partridgS^ISt-^^^^^^ 


\  - 

\ 

.  \- 


I   • 


\  - 


TO  tnt  AKOTM  BflblOVfl.    • 

much  contracted,  even 'had  thei^been  game,  since  it  became  daii 

^    l^^A  ^'^^^^S'.  .^"*  ^  was  the  MnaSert  evil  ariangfroTSS 

short  days,  tvhich  so  utterly  impede  travelUng  in  the^lepth  of  mS- 

ter;  though  «,e  state  of  thigs  ffuttle  better  in  sunTnie^whw^ 

nSSw  ?®  T^r  "^  *^^  ■****  °^  *•»  »°«  "^n^^er  it  equally  ^m: 
pracucable  foirthe  far  greater  part  of  thaMeason.  Th?whdte  of 
we  IS  here  c»tailed :  sea  and  land,  summer  and  winter,  it  is  diffi^ 
cutt  to  say  which  i^yorst;  and  I  beUeve  a  sound  philosopher  would 

W»  L*^*  °*'"°''"*''"r*f**  •*  «  the  Esquimaux*%loneTho  hew 
know  the  true  secret  of  happiness  and  the  rational  art  of  Uviflg; 

Srvt^'f.^"  not  hkdy  to  grant  this  ^ijeat  and  hiny  sought  &! 

SS-^",'^^°'?«  P^^*"'  ^  ^'M  *»  obliged  to  adSiit  that 

AnSTf.ni'^'iJ!^*?*  ■**^**»«'^  ^'»'«*'  she  S.  been  termML 
And  ,f  to  eat  and  to  sleep,  to  sleep  and  to  eatj^in,  be  a  mode  of 

SS;^  "?}!*  ^  been  disputed  in  other  laSs,  however  U  S 
practically  followed,  no  one  wiUcontest  its  value  here,  or  will  doubt 

falw*^*!?^.'*'^'  ^  'T  "d  consummation  of  human 
happiness,    the  Esquimaux  eats  but  to  sleep,  and  sleeps  but  to  eat 

f  ^  '!i^,"??"c"  ^f  *'*"  •  ^*'**  *»««»' "« *»  do  1    The  adaptau?n 

Sl!!;?*ii't"'**/P'*^""*^'"*«-    Had  we  been  better  edicated, 

^ 7nnTi-^^  uf  *''l"T^>"* ^^ ^*"* ^®"» «•* <>f.our element. 

«T^mu"'*®P!"'*'~I*y°^«fe""»*he  geography  of  it. 

c^.  The  weather  was  not  disagreeable,  though;  in  the  day.  the 
thermometer  was  but  minus  W^.^Tsing  in  the  evening  to  2".  Uwu 
arranged  that  two  watches  of  the  men  should  walk  on  shore  in  the 
;Kn'l^"l*^u**T?f'  ■«*  *'^<»  »  *e  afternoon.  I  need  not  say 
o  !!i?*  r  "  ?^"  *^W  one  of  the  preventatives  of  scurvy.  We  took 
J  Se  on  Si^fSf.'^P-  ^»  WewS«ni.«  the  night,'aS  there  w.: 
ISfe  S?.?"**'*"'iSf""'*"J?«'*'"t»t  soon  abated,  though  there 
il  o  JT!  ^"tbtf  evening.  The  tide  was  observed  ti  be  afirreM- 
J"  «»  rt  bad  fonnerly  been  in  our  other  harbour.  '*"^"*e^ 

!♦  I'^P^^  ^"  ?^®''  *?"*  the  snow  continued  to  fall  tiU  niehf. 
K  was  then  fine,  and  the  tfcrmometer  about  wro.  This  lut  s^w 
was  about  a  foot  deep,  and  we  were  obUeed  to  clear  if  away  along. 
froL  inJ?r\^!"°V  »?*?«"•*  '*«Ptft  of  water,  at  least  tiU  itls 
^^h\T.  rTH!'  ^**-  "  " ."  .*"y  ""1*^  to  measure  the  depth 
I?«!L  fk   j«   ^'^■"^^  "  equivalent;  such  is  the  drifting,  and,Ttill 

oZ^JJ^\^Tu  **"!J"  y^S"^  <'«'^  «•<«  it  been 
otherwise,  we  should" have  been  as  pleased  as  we  were  desirou^ 

SSrlJi^  .Tr*  «»**»««;••  to  k~^  the  actual  faU  of  wateTS 
fave  ffitSini?!?'  ^s  far  as  I  have  read,  no  such  estimatS 
of  OTOw      ^"P*^  respecting  thesf  ■  northerti  regions  and  laodil 

V  JllS/'r  °^*'u'  ^'■Jnw  «»ti'n*te  from  mere  recollections  or  obmw 

iS^^iiST''?^'''^  ha?  considered  this  acountry  in whichmS 
water  fefl  in  the  conige  of  the  yew,  we  might  not  »-  —-  -^^ 


-N.'j 


/ 


6^     A 


ifW'ti. 


.» 


V 


SM 


SKOOVD.VOrAOH  Off  OlfOOTERT 


Tfa»  past  r^istry,  which  is  but  the  osual  notuig  of  UdfliF^Kd^er,  girM 
,naiiv  days  of  snow  or  rain.  Future  observers,  if  future  olMervers 
^pHid  evrarhave  such  opportunities,  minttry  tocbteraaineKriiat  the 
ftat  is;  but  whatever  thav  inay  prove,  the  jrain  that  faUs  here  is  of 
uttle  uae^  since  it  has  no  duty.to  perform  for  vegetation ;  and  if  the 
mow  proteeta  any  thing,  it  is  a  voiV^ithout  f^ants  fo  derive  benefit^ 
or  roeks  which  are  alike  indifferent  to  rain  or  drought,  heat,OE  cohL 
^  Our  teJolui  had  now  once  more  come  into  full  use,  since  the  clean- 
^  *%?L*"*  Saturday  night  produg^d  three  busheb  and  a  half  of 
|c^  That  waia  proof  that  we  were  ufarm  enough  between  decka ; 
•nd  the  coRifort  was  disputed  by  no  one.  J  formerly  described  the 
imliirB  of  this  contrivance,  whto  I  piggei^  also  tne  principle  on 
irhich  it  acted ;  eompapngit-to'tfie  condenser  of  the  maiial  ste«^n 
engine.  But  I  oi^rhriffiien  to  haye  said  what  I  may  do  nOw,  name' 
lyE,  that  by  this  irery  isimple  expedient,  all  necessity  for  theqierose 
means  formerly  adopted  for  preserving  the  comfort  of  tfao  men  fae> 
^Hreeiideeks  has  been  superseded.  It  is  well  remembend,  that  none 
i^tbe  expeiQsive  contrivances 'in  cork  linidgs,  or  whatever  else,pn»- 
ventetl  that  cuhdensation  of  steam  Yroih  the  huQian  uid  other  evap 
poration  within  the  ship,  which  caused  k  perpetiial  dripping  <k  wa- 
ter, and  rendered  the  situation  of  the  people  moat  uncbmfortaUe, 
particularly  in  their  sleeppg  places.  I  do  not  wish  to  pass  iuy  cen- 
sure on  those  who  suggested  those  contrivances,  and  am  the  less 
enjlitfed  to  do  this,  when  my  own  ship  in  the  voyage  of  1818  waa 
Ii6t  free  from  the  evil  iini  question,  and  wheii  the  present  scheme  had 
trot  occurred  to  me.  But  having  now  been  fully  tried,  an4  vrith  the 
most  perfect  success,  I  ma^  safely  recommend  it  among  thoee  fit- 
ting which  should,  be  applied  to  every  ship  undertaking  a  voyage 
in  these  northern  regions. 

5M.  The  week  was  ended  in  the  usual  manner;  and  the  day  of 
rest  and  reli^on  was  kept  in  the  way  from  which  we  made  it  a  rule 
oeveir  to  deviate  when  it  could  be  avoided. 

The  sixth  prbdiiced  no  change  worth  recording  ;tpo  many  of  theae 
reoords,  indeed,  are  but  registries  of  labour,  of  which  the  identity  is 
tiresome,  of  weather  which  has  not  very  often  much  intei^t,  and  of 
tqi|iperature  which  would  have  as  littfo,  were  it  not  interesting  to 
know  tl^  state  and  trace  the  changes  of  subh  a  clknate  iu  this  whueh* 
does  not  seem  exceeded  in  badness^  l^  any  other  yet  recorded,  ^Hbatr 
ever  rivals  it  may  have.  Man  is  a  strange  animql  when  ht^  can 
live  in  so  many  cuflbrent  countries,  in  olimates  so  oteosed,  and  on 
food  so  ^diverse.  He  would  be  a  still  stranger  one,  i^  having  ever 
known  another  country  (I  need  not  say  a  bettier,  when  then  cannot 
be  a  worse),  bp  had  made  a  voluntary  ehoice  of  the  Ameriea  of 
Prince  Regent's  inlet  But  he  has  contrived  to  wander  luther, 
whencever  he  midit  have  come;  if  he  ever  knew  bananaa,  ha  has 
learned  (o  prefer  nsh  oil,  has  made  bones  a  substitutaJbr  baidwos, 
and  blubber  for  pineapples ;  learning  also  that  a  seal-iiliB  is  a  norto 
^ttinfr^resB  than  a  cotton  wrapper, aad  tiwtanowitiaytfrwawfri^ 


*«». 


•y 


e 


y 


,  TO  THB  AROTIO  RSqiOHI. 


29S 


wWe 


tated  for  wood  and  stone :  white,  not  forgetting  Ito  bring  with  hiA 
nr^and  what  w  Mtter,  as  much  cunning  as  he  can  convert  to  use, 
ne  Has  made  himself  at  honie,  and  is  so  at  home,  that  he  Would  en- 
inr  no  man  of  any  country,  nor  any  country  of  any  mai^,  even 
tAough  he  kfaeifr  what  they  were,  and  what  they  possessed.  Is  «ot 
the  animal  as  vain  of  himself  and  his  superiority  as  any  other  man 
imder  any  other  life  t  If  he  is  not  much  vainOr,  then  it  is  not  true 
i  u  .^^^  ^  ■'*  ™**®  ■"**  ignorant  people  is  commensurate 
wiurtheir  iraorance  and  rudeness.  But  the  arrangement  is  admi' 
rabte;  and  phdosophers  are  right :— in  the  generak,  however;  not 
80  right  ih  the  appUcation.  Man,  in  the  mass,  is  equally  happy  in 
aJl  conditions  of  Me.  all  regions  <A  the  earth,  and  all  states  of  culti- 
vation.^ ^tis  a  very  different  thing  to  maintain  that,  individually. 
aU  are  toually  happy,  or  that,to  alfthere  are  equivalent  compenni. 
tiojds  of  happiness  and  suffering.  ^    -  :  i~" 

'ttki  If  ther^  was  litUe  novelty'  to-day,  there  was  at  least  the  firet 
— loqs  evenmg-  that  we  had  seen;  the  joint  mominm  noon,  and 
nmij  of  a  sun  which  never  rose  and  never  tet :  which,  proinisinff 
erformed  neithdr,  and  of  which,  the  highest  noon  was  but  a 
Jt,  creepmg,  not  along  the  horizon,  but  over  the  short  space 
I  told  us  that  It  would  "ee  us  no  more  for  a  long  time.f*^^  Yet  it 
was  a  glorious  golden  meridian  of  twilight  and  sunset;  white  the 
cnroson  clouds  wera  brilliitnt  with  tints,  rarely  seen  in  the  more  fa- 
Toured  chmate  of  our  own  country. 

8/A.  The  erection  of  an  observatory  for  the  magnet  had  occupied 
our  peopte  ywterday,  and  found  them  Work  this  day.  There^aa 
nothing  worthy  of  peculiar  note  on  the  two  following.  The  wea^ 
w  n^^^^SiJ''^®'®'  agreeable,  though  varying;  but  it  ought  to 
JSoTJ?^^?''®  Iwr  ranges  oftheifiermomdter  vaijed  between 
10  and  ^mihus,  afad  thn  was  the  termination  of  another  waiik  of 

•iJ??*  J*?  "^  ^*°  ^®"*  "^  *o«  ftw  exercise,  after  church,  Miw 
SL?"±1* «*""**"•  "'*•  Monday.like  Sunday, Wa^  calmairf 
clear,  and  there  was  an  aurora  of  na  great  note.  On  Tuesday 
therewas  kttte  change  m  the  now  unavoTdabte  sameness  of  our  oo- 
cuMtaoM  and  our  atnusement^  On  this  aiid  many  other  day*  we 
2!Si*l  "ll?*?*  ^'^1$:  "«  Aem ;  carried  ffun*$nd  did  not  fire ; 
watched  for  the  mvinbte  sun  that  we  migfit  at  le^  know  h 
was  stiB  in  existence ;  and  were  not  sorry  when  (I  cannot  say  tirt 
day  TO  done,  where  an  was  night),  hut  when  we  ^ight  atteaitmd 
another  of  qot  otvn  days  by  ^ng  to  bed.  \ 

iJ?^i£!l5!S 'if*'^  ^****  f^^^^'"  »  «»rt  ^f  variety  W 
l£  ^iJi'*"*^^?*?.  "«»^,»°^  *»»*»  was  «n  evil    No  one>  mlidli 
J*  better  for  thinking:  those  who  had  nothing  very  cheSMM* 
*ink  enweri»,Alw«vs  the  wone.    They  who  cdnmis^Tliad 
however  y  gnyt  right  to  beUeve  themsejvfes  of  a  riiore  hopefatj 


H 


\ 


♦■^• 


:/• 


sBcoiro  YOTAaB  or  duoptbrt 


ever  the  fact  miffht  have  lieen  as  to  either  par^;  The^  bad  an 
i^bject  in  view  y^ich  the  others  cojuld  scarcdly  keep  in  sight:  and^ 
vAlhbition,  or  vanity,  or  vdiatever  else,  looked  .forward  to  a  arati^- 
-^tion  which/ under  any  sqccess,  could  be  litUe  to  ^ose  who  had 
only  to  fbltbw  as  they  were  directed:  participating  the  labour,  yet, 
if  not  the  fame,  so  auo,  be  it  reii«arke(|,freeof  allAnxietyyandltub- 
Ject  tono  responsibility.  *  \  ' 

16/A.  Tbere  was  little  to  note  tbis^  day  but  a  slender  j^urora.  The 
Weather  and  the  temperature  scarcely  differed  so  much  from  %ha( 
they.had  generally  been  for  soine  time,  as  jo  require  notice  for  any 
<4her  object  than  that  6(a  register. .  The  present  work  of  the  me 
was  to  cover  the  boats  with  snow,  ,fbr  the^  purpose  of  protectinj 
them  from  the  weather.  A  strong 'gale  interrupted  this,  but  di( 
not  last  beyond Jbe.  day.  Yet  it  began'  a^n  on  ^the  following, 
though  soon  mOTMratingt  and  giving  us  the  remainder  of  Saturday 
fof  Qur  several  works,  noU'  not  requiring  notice.  On  idure,  the 
eflfect  was  to  harden  the  snow  so  that  it  could  generally  bear  our 
weight,  and  to  bare  the  r6cks  in  such  a  manner  as  to  to  alter  the 
appearance  of  the  land.  Suitiday  was  passed  ak  it  qugbtto  be:  as , 
we  had  always  passed  it  wl|ienever  it  was  in.our  power.  ^ 
flOth.  If  this  day  was  ]|)ntiK>ut  mark,  it  was  one  in  which  we  com- 

Kred  the  tides  thait.we  h^  ob^nrved.  Nothii^  but  A  tide^t^e,  which^ 
leeiLnot  giVe,  would  make  their  singular  irregularity  sufficiently  ' 
.  c^spicuous.    I  noticed  the  same  faets  last  year,  and  they  were 
even  nuHre -remarkable  in  the  pf«sent.    Every  |hin^  wtss  out  df~^ 
rule :  whatever  the  fi;ioon  might  a^t,  the  cblintiBracting  causes,  in 
winds,  currents,  ice,  and  nernaps  more,  set  all>caledations  at>  defi-  < 
.^Bcel  .  It  was  &  high  or  a*low  tiae  whenever  it  chcMe  to  be ;  and  that 
was  nearly  all  we  knew  of  we  matter.'  .    *  (^ 

81«/.  In  this  calendar,  this  was  the  shortest  diy ;  tha)  yifBa  tolera- 
bly iudiflferentio  us,  who  had  ne  day  at  all  i  but  as  the  sun  attained 
its  greatest  dongations  at  midnight,  this  and  the  following  were,  to 
us,  of  «qual  le;^thsi  The  temperature  was  as  low  as.  27**  minus, 
and  rose  to  81".  on  the  succeeding,  which  wks  stormy.  To  cmifi^ 
what  I  have  just  ss^  of  the  tid^  diat  of  to-day  rose,  in  the  fqi^ 
noon,  but  one  inch.  '     *    -r 

iShL  The  gale  Uewhard  tin  nij^t,  but  ceased  so  as  to  lehve  isia'  ' 
finemominff.  2jU/k.  Itw«s  even  cahn  and  pleafant;  and  the  gale,  by. 
stUl  fnrtherlMril^;  the  rocks  and  fiUing  the  ravines  with  snow  which 
had  afterwards  hardened,  rendered  our  walking  more  .easy  than 
evel',  and  idmost  agreeable.  There  was  DotMng,  however,  on  diore, 
to  amuse  us :  for  us,  as  for  Urn  men,  the  land  alorded  exercise,  and 
that  was  alL  Itiij  likely  that  they  at  least  thought  this  a  tesk  and 
AhdMMir  rather  thiu  a  pteasnre;  bi|t  it  was  necessary,  andf  more 
for  them  tluiii  us.    The  night  temperaturewasnHinns  18**. 

36lil>   A  violent  rtorm  of  sdow  interfered  with  the  parade  <^ 
IShriirtmas  day;  but  all  else  was  done  tocwding^to  custom.    86/A4 

"  day  ef  jfOppso»  ^ 


■V  ♦    *^. 


m  ' 


♦       -^ 


•       ^*\ 


A 


iiC,:. 


•    < 

'f 

t 

.      t 

B 


J^. 


s^      t 


'4 


-(IJ 


TO  THB  AlUJtnp  EXOIOIfS, 


m- 


■^jr 


/- 


^.:.. 


-»*. 


ti*f 


po^  f  and  on  ^^ohdsij  the  usual  vr<>d[p  Were  resumed.  28th.  The 
feather  improved,  and  during  these  Ibree  days  the  average  cold 
<t  mght  was  minus  20",  rising  to  Q?  with^snow,  and.  ^en  falling 
agai^to  15*>  on  the  two  subseiqiieM  ones.  There  was  little  io  mark 
these  days  but  thflicapturei(tf#  fox.      ^ 

30/A.'  Tile  ice  *i  the  lake  was  measured,  and  found  to  exceed 
three  feet  in  thickness  ;^and,  the  mercwy  froze  once  more.  The 
frost  in  the  tanks  amoroted^  to  four, bushels;  being  what  we  had 
found  the  largest  quantity  last  winter,  afterwe  had  put  our  ar- 
rangements in  good  order,  andfixe^oA  a  reasonable  ten;perature 
»t  which  to  i^gulate  the  dwelling  placd  of  ^  mpn  between  decks. 
The  month  and  the  year  ended  together  nylth  Very  cold  breather. 
It^was  the  highest  tide  that  we  had  ycii  seen,  beinsr  nearly  eiirht 
ifeetandahalP  ^^  *  *~^  .   .■« 

.  In  summing  up  a  month  whi^h  presentr  neither  variety  oor  in- 
terest, I  may  first  make  a  few  ijemarks  respecting  the  trahsactiom^ 
of  the  year.  It  is  the  period  wbicli  contains  the  chief'of  oui'disco- 
venes;  and  although  theses  d<yW  occupy  a  large  geographical  • 
SMce,  they  are  of  great  importance,  Slnce'4hey  have  so  narrowed 
the.hnuts  of  investigation  as  t6  render  it  possible  to  finish  what  re- 
mains to  be  done,  in  a  sinsle  ieasoii^and  with  iquch  l^sSi^f  hazard 
and  expense  than  wolddotheifwjse  have  beeifnecm  » 

There  is  now  some  reasoq(  to  believe  tiiat  we  might  have  extri- 
cated our  ship  in  the  preseitf  wintdr,  h4d  we  proceed^  in  a  dif- 


ga.tion;  and  the  moird  fesp^cially  ^bedMfe  l»e,  in  particular,  was 
acquainted,  with  thn  oreat  inl6t  He  coi^dered  such  a  proceed- 
ing not  less  perilflniiban  laborious,  and  etatertafaied  no  doubt  that 
the  ice  m  the  chanml  would  clear  away  npt  time  sufficient  to  enable 
us  U>  mjdce  as  great  a  progress,  or  a  greater  one,  4>y  the  same  date, 
and  without  needlesi  risk*  That  his  aaticipationslweie  wrong,  the 
event  has  shown;  whether  we  might  really  have  ilUcceeded  by 
Woptinffth^  other  plaril  will  never  be  known. 
.  The  ^ip  appeared,  to  have  sufiered  some  d^nage  'by  being  so 
long  and  so  often  a^und,  since  she  was  again  lealiy.  But  our 
wipter  ko9oromodaUons  wer»  perfect,  and  the  fnen  seemed  as 

V  J- ?  ■*  P<>»w*>Ie;  having  ai>paren(ly  profited  by  otar  new  system 
of  diet.  If  the  regular  exercise  contributed  to  this,  that  was  con- 
ducive to  another  good  end;  aince  the  mbn  would  t^Us  be  well 
trained  foir.  toyv^Uinff  by  (hm  time  the  season  should  arrive. 

.  Though  the  weatherhS  been  ofteii  very  coW,  the  temperature 
was  very  changeable;  nor  was  the  nean  sp  low  as  that  in  the  last 
December,  by  four  degrees.  That  mean  is  minus  20.24;  the 
highest  temperature  was  plus  6,  and  the  lowest,  being  on  the  last 


dny  nf  thn  month,  was  47^miniM 


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TO  THB  ABOTIO  RKOIOITS. 


801 


CHAPTER  XXXVI. 


TraruacttoM  on  board  the  Sh^  in  January,  \SSi—»ummary  qf 
that  month.     February i  with  if  nummary.     Match:   its 
^tummairyi 

I— jftrifc  1.  Tboooh  tlitt  .temperature  remained  at  minus  47*>, 
^  calm,  and  the  cold  was  not  severe  to  the  feelings.  The " 
colours  were  hoisted,  and  the  ship  dressed,  out;  new  year's  day 
bemff  otherwise  kept  in  the  usdal  manner.  There  was  so  clear  a 
sky  that  .no  stars  could  be  seeiji  during  four  hours ;  such  was  the 
po  jrer  of  the  meHdian  twilight  2rf.  On  Sunday,  the  thermometer 
fell  to  mmus  a2*,  but  even  then,  the  men  who  walked  on  shore 
after  divine  service  did  not  complain.  '  T 

On  the  third,  fourth,  and  fifth,  it  ranged  between  46*  and  5d*, 
the  feather  c<mtinuii^  clear.  An  overcast  skv  raised  it  to  34" 
on  the  sixth,  but  it  fell  again,  when  that  cleaied  away,  to  4S°,  on 
the  seventh.  The  employments  of  the  men  were  uniform;  and 
the  only  vanety  was  the  capture  of  a  fox,  on  each  of  the  two  last 
day«.  Saturday  ended  a  dull  week,  without  any  chanoe.  in  the 
weather  or  the  temperature. 

9th.  Another  fox  was  found  in  the  trap  on  Sunday,  which, 
otherwise,  passed  as  usual  The  only  remarkabliB  circumstance 
was  the  vacillation  of  the  thermometer,  without  any  cause  that 
isouM  be  coiyectured,  as  the  Mother  was  uniformly  calm  and 
clear.  At  sixain  the  evening,  it  rose  fromminus  46°  to  86",  whereit 
nraained  an  hpur,  fallmg  asain  to  46%  so  that  the  frozen  mercury 
thawed.  ^  then  froze  again.  There  was  a  fkint  aurora,  both  in  . 
the  moriBg  and  tl^  evening. 

'r  1«#1WA.  aw*  la^A.  A  gloomy  sky  raised  it  next  day  to  88" 
forjfiaort  time.  The  ice  on  the  lake,  being  examined,  vwas  found 
^ii«  three  feet  s^  a  half  thick.  On  the  thirteenth,  the  sky  pre- 
t«nted  a  beantiiul  display  of  colours,  m  it  had  formerly.done  at  the 
mme  season;  and  the  Ifind/Was  much  elevated  by  refractidn.  On 
the  fou^eepth^  there  was  d  gale  with  snow,  raising  the  thermome- 
ter to  10";  and  on  the  folbwing,  it  reached  minus  4" 


'    > 


■•-  V,.  ■  ■■ 


SBOOITD  tOTAOB  Of  OltOOVBRr 


)  .  ■ 


f 


k  «.o  k  :  ^°'*«^**m^  ^^"'®  ""^^  on  Sunday,  and  the  temperatuiD 
•  ^"S^*<*  ™'°'i»  2;.  There  was  no  material  ckrige  on  Mon<£y;b^ 
on  Tuesday,  it  blew  a  gale  with  much  drift  snow.  On  Wediiday. 
the  sun  yas  seen  for  the  first  time ;  being  one  day  sooner  than  we 
had  seeteit  last  vear.  It  was  a  welcome  sight,  even  now ;  thouirh 
It  was  lone  yet  before  we  should  derive  much  advantaiM  from  iUm 
respect  to  heat  at  leasL  -  <^*      «"*i,i« 

20th,  21st  and  SWrf.  The  two  first  of  the  followiag  day.  wtere 
Jl&iT?"^'  the  Saturday  was  distmguished  l^alaJge  and 
beautiful  halo  rpund  the  moon,  with  four  jpTraselenie,  occumnir  at 
eight  in  the  evening,  when^  her  laUtude  was  32°.  The  latter  occu- 
— -^P'««*Jonw>ntal  position;  and  there  was  also  a  bright  arcli  ali 
round  the  heaven,  paraUH  to  th6  horizon,  and  of  the  Mmo  altitude 
as  the^  moon.  The  i^adius  of  the  halo  was  86^ ;  and  wher«  these 
two  crossed,  the  prismaUc  colours  were  dispfeyed,  whUe  there  was 
occasionally  an  additional  halo  of  6°,  equally  cplour^.  The  whole 
appearance  lasted  an  hogr;  when  the  weather  beeame  ha<y,  witfi  ' 

«arf,  24M  and  25th,  There  was  a  fresh  bre^with  moi«  snow, 
on  Sunday.  Monday  was  clear,  with  the  thermometer  at  minus 
rCiu  «^^/**1Sf  10  70  on  the  next,  that  alsb  proved  a  verrmild  day. 
On  the  86th,  the  sun  reached  the  ship  for  the  first  time,  and  shone 
ftright  The -land  was  very  clear,  and  much  elevated  by  refraction. 
Commander  Ross  was  employed  in  measuring  a  base. 

21  th.  A  remarkable  halo  occurred  to^ay,  about  th«  nm,  beioir 
of  cour«p,  somewhat  more  than  a  semicirele :  the  lower  endri  beiiw 
ir  P«J»««  t2,^««ow,  and  becoming  whi|e  in  the  Upper  part  oftK 
•Jty.  88/A.  There  was  little  change  of  weiither  or  occupation :  but 
«ome  Willow  partridges  were  shot,  and  ihany  ravens.  Wei.  and 
'    grouse  were  seen,  while  on  Saturday,  the  a9th,  a  fox  was  taken. 

Ihe  temperature  of  Sunday  was  19°  minus.  After  church,  the 
men  walked  six  miles  to  the  islands  wheire  the  naUves  had  beMk  nsi- 
22SJ"**  y«*'',  but  found  nothing  except  the  deserted  huts  and  trmpe; 
mSTast  day  of  the  month  was  maA^d  by  a  strtfng  gale  ^th  aS 

•now:  the  thermometer  rising  with  Uie  wind,  as  ^ as  roinua  a*, 
in  spite  of  occasionally  severe  dayis.  the  mean  of  Uut  m^th  was 

not  so  low  as  that  of  last  January.  Jit  was  about  minus  8r,  where. 

asthe  former  was  26°.  ThehigW  elevation  was  S.«  plus,  and  the 
w  ?«T1r  1  "Vu  "" '  ""^""S  *.  total /range,  with  a  neceai^  corre<». 
>.  tion,  for  the  thermometer  when  di  its  lowest  point  ef  60"  b  the 
•     oourse  of  twelve  days.  A<  *^  *.  w  w  «  uie 

Duringthe  lower  temperature/it  was  calm,  end  beautifully  otear : 
but  we  could  make  no  observations  with  the  instruments  on  those 
-t-  "yi*  «n^  »i  >»^a«  asimpossibW  to  touch  the  metal  as  if  it  had  been 
"Jdhot.  After  the  85th,  we  lirocuwd  some  good  ones, 
.k  J  J  '^T 1*"^°^  8*^*'  ?*  **w  Jo"™*^  has  shown ;  and,  on  aU 
those  days,  the  barometer  fe^  and  the  temperature  joae.    But  it  wee 


.   %^ 


\ 


'^h. 


TO  rum  ARCTM  RCaiOHS. 


Iv*^- 


80$ 


.fc,'?^""'*'*!®"'""'^^,  that  when  the  gale  wag  from  the  northward, 
tne  lormer  feU  le8a,and  the  thermometer  rose  more,  than  when  it 
was  from  any  other  quarter ;  as  this  was  also  niost  strikibe  when 
tne  wmjl  was  from  the  southward.    The  aurora;  were  very  incon- 
spicuous ;  but  the  haloes  were  of  a  very  striking  character.   » 
'         1  he  total  of  our  sport  in  this  month  produced  seven  foxes  and  i 
lJ?.r  •       ^^.  '*Jf®  ^"^  ^^  lastfrozen  through  where  we  tried  it^ 
and  the  ice  nearly  four  feet  thicC  the  increase  having  been  ten  ini 
ches  smce  December.  o  -^   »       '"  ^ 

Though  the  sunw&s  first  seen  on  the  19  th,  some  followfng  days  of 
Ir»- J'o?!.-  f  P*^*"!®*^  V'  ^"*'"  obtaining  a  second  sight  of  H  UU  ^ 
hL?  .1    J"^^..  Daybreak  was  now  at  eight  o'clock ;  and  thus  we 
fcad  iibundant  tirae  for  work  and  exercise.     We  had  been  disap,  \ 
EI.°!!i?L°°*  'T^OiPS^^  expected  visit  from  the  natives,  but  at! 
<"^^  their  absedlB  to  the  badness  of  the  weather.  i 

F<r6.  lat  Theriionth  be^n  with  a  sttong  northerly  gale,  ani  the 
••rmometer  rose  til  six  in  the  evening,  when  it  reached  plus  6"; 
5>eing  the  highest  ten^perature  ever  observed  in  these  reglonrso  earl 

ilm  -n/^S  /IkTv!*  •  P-""  ^y  °"  the  following  day!  which  was 
M  m  and  mild  at,thc^beginnmg,but  ended  in  another  equally  stronir 
gate  fronf  the  same  quarter.  Thus  it  continyed  on  the  third,  tifi 
near  noon ;  the  therriiometer  falling  to  zero,  but  rising  *  little  in  the 
evening,  to  recoverjtbe  same  degree  at  midnight 
tiJ'^' .?  ^^j^  oyercast  day  with  snow ;  the  wind  came  round  to 
fSl^rl'  «™'  w  cbnfirhiation  of  my  former  remarks,  the  tempera- 
«ZiS»  *"  T™  T  •  ^>  °?*"  **»'^  employment  in  buildinran 
nf^vS  l??![JlT"g  refractions,  and  in  repairing  the  othersfono 
of  which  had  beei^  shaken  from  the  foundation,  in  consequence  of 

J£.  n^?rT  "^A  ^  **"*."**''  y^'  ^«*  *»»d  broken  duriig  one  of 
Uj  PMtgale..  6>A.  Saturday  ended  with  the  theripometer  at  minus 
M.  On  SundaV  it  went  down  to  32".  Many  willow  partridcea 
'^'JSL'**",?^  *'^J"®"  •*""««  thiirwalk  after  divine  service.  * 
«fc--?»£5^*L*''[..*'^"*"*^  through  the  two  following  days,  in 
which  Ihew^bothmg remarkable  but  a  slight  aurora.  Nof  was 
were  much  charige  on  th»  next ;  the  only  notable  occurrence  was 
f k!  25f*.  ^'^u*".  r*'^l«>«i*e  fo«»  which  had  lost  its  tongue  through 

«KS^TT**  f  I  "**""•'  ""^  '*  ^'^  very  tjold.    Another  fox 

J^j-       r    *■  ^T'^f^f  •  ^^^^^  *"»«•  to  make  observations  on 

1  ?«fni^anaifoo,  fe^'^the  needle  would  not  traverse.  *'"'**'* 

„  J  ii  ^®!?  °^]"?  f  stiff  breeze,  with  a  thermometer  at  39''  mi- 
S?2Sl!"°  ^"^li*  »*nP«»We  to  walk  on  shore i  and  it  was  the 
th^mton  Sitoiy»  Wk.  The  tanks  having  produced  five 
W&  ***^J1S  ^  "•?*♦  confirmed  the  remarks  £ready  mSt 
pSy  W^  !J  "T*'  ^  *^  ^^«'  ^"  unchanged.^  laX 
evenmg  of  Mondiy,  the  temperature  was  down  at  45°raiKJ  another 
vof  WM  ittmji  U  wna  »  wcond  op  Um  fQllowitog4lay.    lu  o/^.  — 


<r 


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Wi-  ,  /  HSOOITD  VOTAaB  OF  DUCOTmtT 

■■v\ ..:"'7/..,-  *.■■■      /:  .    . 

pensa^on,  oto  or  our  own  escaped  on  the  next,  carrying  off  with  it 
the  chain.    The  thermometer  went  down  one  degree  more. 

The  sea  ice  was  cut  through,  and  found  to  nneasure  abput  four 
feet  and  a  half.  Two  more  foxes  were  taken,  of  which  One  had 
lost  its  tongue  in  the  same  manner  as  a  former.  The  efcapedf  one 
was  forgetful  enough  to  enter  one  of  the  traps,  and  was  retaken  on 
Saturday.  19M.  During  these  t^s,  the  tempera^ui«  vacillated  a 
little  al^ut  the  low  stan£ird  it  haSheld  for  some  tune;  it  was  44" 
when  midnight  closed  the  week.  ^       // 

20/A.  Foxes  seemed  now  abundant,  Sunday  mining  having  found  ^ 
another  in  the  trap.  A  very  few  grouie  and  hares  had  been  seen 
latterly.  On  Monday,  there  was  again  a  fox  taken.  21«/.  The 
weather  was  much  the  same  as  in  the  preening  week ;  but.'^with  a 
cloudy  sky,  it  rose  to  31°  minus  on  Tuesiliiy,  when  aga,in  the  trap 
produced  a  fox.  Had  our  former  neign^un  been  at  OMir  old  post, 
not  much  of  this  game  would  have  faU^n  to  our  share.  | 

23</.  A  fall  of  snow  raised  the  thermometer  to  S8  degrees ;  and 
f  this  weather  continued  till  die  following  day,  when  it  became  clear, 
fis  was  the  next,  on  which  two  grouse  and  a  hare  were  Ulled.  2&th. 
After  some  variable  winds,  and  many  changes  fromWsloudy  to  clear 
weather,  with  correspondent  variations  of  temperature,  Saturday 
night  closed  at  minus  40°.  //  ' 

27/Ak  On  this  ^ay,  the  sun/had  just  power  enough  to  raise  the 
temperature  from  minus  4aLjto  38°;  and,  after  that»  it  subsided  to 
48°.  Some  hares  were  s»ni  during  the  Sunday'itwialk:  and  more 
on  the  Monday ;  but  no^i»r  was  shot  It  was  little  more  than  a 
schoolboy's  experiment  Jto  nre  a  ball  of  frozen  mercury  through  an « 
inch  plank:  but  this  bad,  possibly,  not  been  done  before.  The 
montn  elosed  with  thje  thermometer  ^t  43o  minus. 

The  summary  of/this  month  is  more  barren  ^an  usual.  It  had 
been  a  very  cold  cfne,  particularly  towards  Uie  end.  The  mean 
proved  to  have  been  minus  34°.  Yet  there  was  an  unusually  high 
temperature  in  the  early  part,  since  it  once  reached  plus  9°;  affect- 
iug  materially  ihe  total  meap,  but  not  that  of  the  latter  half,  which 
averaged  48y   The  lowest  fall  was  about  49°. 

The  observations  experienced  much  obstruction  from  the  cold,, 
as  I  have  remarked  above ;  but  a  few  were  registered.    The  men 
retained  dMeir  health,  and,  as  I  believe,  their  conten<^ness. 

Not  h|nring  yet  seen  the  Esquimaux,  we  now  ffi-'^  up  the  hope 
of  theur/joining  us  till  May,  though  nek  well  abte  to  account  for 
their  absence.  ^  ^  . 

sport,  if  it  be  sport  to  snare  foxes,  had  been  unusually  suc- 

^ul.    Nor  mpsCwe  be  accused  of  wantonness  in  thik;  since  we 

a  family  of  dogs  to  maintain.    It  was -the  stud  that  we  were 

>und  to  keep  in  as  good  condition  as  we.  could  afford,  for  services 

rhich  were  now  not  far  dijfrtant 

March  U  The^weather  sontjnaed  the  same.    There  was  a1>right 


'*■  f>»X 


TBUB  AROTIQ  MOIOVS. 

auroM,  which  ngitated  the  magnetic  needle  in  the  manner  that  has 
beSn  often  observed,  guch  hghi  as  I  could  collect  from  it  by  means 
f  a  l^ge  readmg  Idns,  had  no  effect  on  the  differential  thfjrmome- 
o  2^  ^^"^  following  davs  scarcely  presented  any  change;  but 
on  Sftfiirday  It  was  squally  for  a  Ume,  and  the  tliennt)meter  feU  to 
40",-bavmg  begun  this  month  #ith  its  lowest  at^88».  A  fox  was 
taken,  and  a  hare  killed. 

I  .i.*j^*  Sunday  ^was  sontewhat  farmer;  the  temperature  risiog  in 
the  day  to  28",  for  two  h^urs.  ft  was  40*  on  Monday  night,  awl  a 
hare  was  killed  on  thats(|ay.  The  two  following  days  were  Uttle 
noticeable  w»|M^tng  but  a  general  continuance  of  the  same 

^wal    brS^^SS*^*  **^^*  *""*'  **"  ^^  Ia«t  <rf  Aose.  thoM 

L'?**j  ^B^^fflP°..*K''*'P'  narrowly  escayed  beiii#taken 
Dy^the  dogri^H|^  (M  of  almonds  in  a  shot-mould,  #minus 
40*,  and  findHgpK  II  tareet;  whieh  it  roHi,  reboigRng  lin. 
broken.  A  «iipiFl»Ul  of  ice  bad  no  eflfecL  The  two  lasTdiws  of 
this  week  were  as  uniform  in  character  as  the  mvce^nff:  the 
Saturday's  midnight  temperature  being  as».  ^ 

13tA.  Sunday  was  unaftered  in  weatfa^.    Monday  produced 

another  fox  i  and  the  ibnen  commmenoed  moviqg  gravolfor  making 

a  canal  oi^the  ice.    It  was  already  swm  that  the  sun  could  meU 

snow  on  some  rocksi    In  the  afternoon  of  Ttwsday,  a  cfaan^  took 

place  in  the  weather,  audit  bfes^ hard,  wiUi  drift  snowf  which 

contmiwd  Ull  noon  oh  the  foUowin^Nlatf.    On  the  seventeenth  it 

was  alternately  clear  and  gloomV,  but  the  thermometer  heU  fiurt 

about  36".    18th.  It  was  exceedmgly  cold  to  The  feelings  on  Pri- 

day,  at  the  same  temperature;  and,  on  Saturday,  tkat  feU  to  44'. 

The  tanks  produced  five  and  a  half  bushels  of  ice  this  week ;  beiiiff 

the  greatest  evaporation  from  between  decks  that  we  had  exp^ 

encad  since  this  a|[^nttus  was  satis&etoiity  arrani^     ' 

20/A.  The  eontmtiance  and  ^6gmu£  the  cold  at  this  period  of 
the  present  month  baganievioi%liH|aeioiir attention; and  even 
to  the  reader,  the  r^istry  ^iMiich  has^oiitbeen  repeated  to  weari- 
ness will  not  be  nninteresting.  The  tibermonwtArsank  on  this  day, 
Sunday,  to  minus  fiS^;  and  the  average  of  die  twenty.four  hours 
was  but  40®.  At  fonr  on  tiie  M<«day  iaonung,  thAian<«ossed  die 
eqnator  at  this  exceedingly  low  temperatura;  aa  oeenrrenco  which 
hadnopgndMinthepremdingvoy^es.  ' 
^  There  was  no  change  in  this  respect  on  the  two  fpUowing  days; 
tbmigh  the  barometer  rose  and  fell  sevaral  times.  There  ww  a 
difierence  of  a  few  degrees,  for  the  bettol^  the  next,  when  the 
mean  rose  to  SO",  and  the  hea|itt  thi  dm^  to  2AO  minus.  VtiAcr 
and^tavday  pieaelliad  iiomipE»lel»ngea;  and  tfaethennoiMisr 
onthislast^UffhtwasatSSO 

»7/A.  Sundarand  the  foUowing  two  days  wete  almost  equally 
without  note.    There  wap  variable  weather,  gloomy  and  dear  al> 


I 


>•-  /'. 


"i 


n 


)- 


'it 


..,,    -,       Vi.        .n--^.    ♦  - 


N 


r 


806 


SEOORD  VOTAOK  Of  DISCOVERT 


If 


r 


if 


ternately,  with  occasional  shoMiers  of  snow,  and,  latterly,  a  fresh 
breeae.  The  lowest  temperature  of  the  three  days  lay  from  35°  to 
28°,  g^dually  rising. 

Oil  the  thirtieth,  a  decided  and  a  very  pleasing  change  'took 
-filS^v  Tfe§zJheim<mifitetjreach^Xl?j^^ 


niild  to  our  sensations  that  the  r^en  were  congratulating  each  other 
on  the"  fine  warm  day,"  even  when  it  had  sunk  to  20°.  There 
could  be  no  ddubt  that  it  did  really  fe^l  warm.;  such  is  the  effect 
of  contrast  in  this  case.  At  forty  decrees  above  Uiis,  it  would  have 
been  a  wintry  cold  seldom  known  in  England,  and  we  aU  knew  what, 
we  should  have  felt  there,  even  with  this  enormous  difference.' 
It  was  stillwarnMr  on  the  following,  since  it  rose  to  8o  in  the 
day,  and  did  not  f«^  below  17°  in  the  n^ht  Another  month  was 
ended.  .  ..w-   :<\' '■_._,-  \  ~'  y  ''  .  '^/x  ' 

The  great  coldness  of  this  month  must  already  have  been  remark- 
ed. It  had  ihuch  exceeded  that  of  the  former  corresponding  ones' 
in  the  vojrages  of  the  precedmg  navigators.  The  mean  was  '35° 
minus,  being  not  less  than  17°  lower  than  the  similar  mea&is  during 
those,  and  it  was  11°  lower  than  the  lowest  of  them.  The  high^t 
was  8°  minus,  and  the  lowest  62o.  \ 

Much  snow  havinglaB^  nearly  the  efltire  sufac?  of  the  land  was 
a  mass  of  ice  and, snow.  On  one  occasion  only,  the  latter  melted 
for  a  short  time  beneath  the  influence  of  the  sun,  on  some  rocks  t^ 
were  exposed  to  its  rays ;  yet  not  many  became  thus  exposed,  and  , 
the  effect  wah  of  no  long  duration.  In  the  March  of  the  preceding 
year,  however,  dui|ng  several  days,  the  water  was  running  down 
m  streams.  '    f 

It.was  an  adverse  prospect  as  our  future  plans  were  concerned ;  . 
and  had,  at  times,  some  efifeot  in  castmg  a  dampen  the  men,  which 
their  tiresome  samenes  of  occupation  had  no  tendency  to  remedy. 
Yet  they  were  in  perfect  health.    There  had  been  none  on  the  sick 
list,  and  there  was  no  appearance  of  scurvy. 

Altoeether,  mavv  observatiens  had  btfm  made  and  reof>rded ;  the   ' 
place  for  which  is%e  appendix,  not  this  jo'uifnaL    In  addition  to 
many  foxes,  twelve  white  harosfiad  tien  shot,  with  some  ptarmi- 
gans ;  but  of  our  tamed  animals,  only  two  remained  aiive. 

Our  disappointment  in  not  seeing  the  Esquimaux  continued  daily 
increasing,  as  their  expected  vxrvm  was  the  longer  delayed.  They 
furnished  us  with  occimation  and  amusemeirt,  more  required  by  tlie 
men  than  ourselves.  We  were  also  in  mxA  of  seal's  flesh  for  our 
dogs,  which  would  have  been  starved  had  it  not  been  for  our  suc- 
cess in  taklhg  foxes ;  for  ourselves,  too,  fresh  vmiison  and  fish  wquld 
havebden  more  than  acceptable ;  nor  were  we  so  well  stocked  with 
skm  dresMis  as  not  to  wish  for  more.  We  stiU  looked  forward  to 
their  visits  with  hope.  .^ 


J*  tf '; 


4$'^= 


TO  TBI  ARCTIC  RXGIOITS. 


8d7 


,:,_/ 


..,„^ 


?;V 


V       CHAPTER  X 


sfvu. 


*'  •  , 


4p^il~-^n  Sa^iediiion  undertaken— ^account  of  tAis  journey—  \ 

, -^Summary  qf  the  month.  \ 

.^wi?.  i;  Tot  weather  improved^very  slowly;  but,  on  the  second, 
the  niffht  temperatnre  was  zero,  and  the  highest  in  the  day,  plus  3°. 
1  he  dipping  needle  was  found  to  be  out  of  order.  On  Sunday  there 
was  a  bieeze,  which  became  a  gale  on  the  following  day.  The  va- 
riations in  the  themperature  were  unimportant. 

&th.  This  was  the  day  on  which  our  travelling  had  commenced 
last  year.  The  condition  of  things  was  now  very  different,  besides 
which,  we  could  not  wiell  manage  without  the  aid  of  the  natives  and 
the  assistanpe  of  their  dogs.  The  thermometer  fell  to  minus  17"  on 
the  night  of  the  sixth,  thus  giving  us  a  temperature  84"  lower  than 
on  the  corresponding  day  m  the  last  year.  \ 

7th.  A  succession  of  heavy  squalls  with  drift  snow  blew  to-day, 
but  ceased  before  the  following,  which  was  fine  yet  cold,  with  the 
night  thermometer  at  20".  Nor  was  it  at  all  warmer  on  the  Satur- 
day. Whei^  the  sun  acted-on  the  snow  it  was  glazed,  but  there 
waa  no  flow  of  water,  and  no  apparent  clearing.  It  was  colder  by 
2°  on  Sunday,  which  passed  as  usual. 

OnMonday  it  approached  zero,  at  noon,  bein^  a  great  improve-  ^ 

5u5**f  ^®  ^®'*  employed  in  preparations  for  a  projected  journey. 
This  favourable  change  did  not,  however,  last,  since  it  fell  to  28" 
on  the  following  day.  Last  year,  at  the  same  time  there  were  many 
pools  near  the  ship  and  along  the  shore;  at  present,  all  was  solid 
ice.  On  the  two  next,  the  temperature  gradufldly  improved,  and 
reached  near  to  zero  at  noon.    It  came  to  plus  4*  on  Friday ;  and  . 

settled,  on  Saturdav*  with  a"  as  iu  maximum.  Preparations  for 
travellinecontinuea.  t     ■/-:■■ 

17th.  The  first' snow  bunting  of  the  season  was  seen  this  morn- 
ing.    IBth.   On  Mondav  the  preparations  for  our  journey  were    '♦' 
Complete,  and  we  waited  only  tor  weather.    A  change  seemed  pro-     _„  7 
mised  the  next  day,  as  the  thermometer  rose  to  plus  8",  and  the      "  /  it 

weather  felt  warm  in  spite  of  a  breeze.  A  walking  party  was  sent 
away  two  miles  with  the  sledse,  that  they  nrfght  be  ready  to  start 
very  early  in  tjie  morning,  if  the  vn,M\Wfl  pfirmittftd. 


.    4 


V 


>      ■  -i 


/ 


1     ■ 


\l 


/  I. 


:  :■:.<..■. 


■>.-.J^ 


I'W- 


X,. 


■•^^ 


808 


SECOnO  VOtAOif  OII^DIMOVBRT 


20M.  This  being  the  case,  the  party  set  off  early,  and  by  oooii 
the  convoying  portion  returned,  leaving  CommandeV  Ross  iid  five 
men  to  pursue  their  journey.  Another  sledge  and  cooking  appa- 
ratus  were  m  preparation  on  board.  On  the  twenty-first  the  tern- 
perature  increased  so  much  as  to  reach  31»  plus,  and  we  were 
agreeably  surprised  by  a  visit  from  three  of  the  natives,  Neytaknaij, 
roweytak,  and  Noyenak.  »      /  »»"  ij» 

^^hey  came  over  the  western  hills  with  their  dogs,  and  stopriiki 
about  a  quarter  of  a  tnile  off,  holding  up  their  hants  to  show  tliSr 
were  unarmed,  and  calUng  out  the  usuil  all  hail,  "  Manig  tomiir^ 

SnI    J*jr^P''°f ^®*^^.'*  ^°  J°^"  ^'^P™-    J*  '"^""^  tf'e  party  whichf  ad 

wintered  At  Awatutyak,  consisting  of  three  families;  and  they  wire 

Jf-/  fc""  "tauon  near  the  entrance  of  the  inlet  leading  to  t^at 

?inpt^^    ^^•***—  "^^  K  Commander  Hoss,  from  whoiii  I 

«!iTJ  1-    fV°.*°'™"'J5.'"®  *''»*  ^^  ^""^  purchased  two  storel  of 

.   salmon  for  two  knives.    This  was  welcome  news,  and  we  amu^ied 

to  fetch  tM  acceptable  supply  the  next  morning.  i^ 

i\»l^.u    V"^-  tbe^todipner  and  to  sleep,  and  received  fiom 

SJkmi®  following^  information.    All  their  friends  were  weU  at 

St -u^'  ^^P]  T«gashu,  who  had  died  in  the  winter.  This  iSrty 

hadkilled  many  deer  and  taken  much  fish,  and  had  been  expeVtinc 

S  ^t"/K^7!:"*r'*^  and  NeitchUlee.    One  of  the  men  wm  sSo? 

togo  to^Uus  last  place,  and  would  convey  the  news  of  our  present 

b^  one^^.h'!?^^  ^.'^/^^^ieil!^"^"^  Tiagash^^ 

been  one  of  the  first  to  inform  us  cd^^  geography.    He  was  also 

a  pecuharly  good  character;  and,l^ng%  fa«^  Lilyrh^A 

ill  an5Stf.5f''i5^5',^'?°V**'^  Aime  cause,  he  hadlitUetb 
sell,  and  therefore  obtamed  httle  from  us  in  barter;  but,  at theedSl 
he  was  presented  with  a  file  and  a  knife,  thua  equiizing  h  m  ^' 
^otfiers ;  a  bounty  well  applied,  as  this  famih?  had  afway™  b^ 
especialhr  kind  to  us.  and  had  formerly  shown  their  gratitude  for 

iw7JJ£k  fK!*?!l°r.  ^^  ^'i^  ^"^  P'^"*  of  *^al,  out  of 
two  winch  they  had  taken.  Whatever  he  might  be  as  an  Esqui- 
maux, he  at  leaitt  died  an  amiable  and  an  exemplary  man-HVe 
tSii rij'""  ^  ^"^  ""^  »•»  ^^^ 5  "d  had  to  rJgStthat  we 
mr  ^^Zl'  ^'  ■'°''  "  "'«*^'  *"'*  ^"^  withinS^pSJerTf 
2Sind.  With  the  track  of  the  former  sledge  to  direct  us,  I  left  the 
■hip  at  four  m  the  morning,  with  thasuJ^n,  thr^T  sSJme„.  imd 
our  Esquimaux  miests.    \^e  reached  their  rtation,  callSkhflS^ 

K«Vhtf?°:  H*  'fePl*'^^  '^»'««'  ^«  had  pitohed  ou^tent  oa 
the  f  8th  of  last  Jun6.    We  found  there  were  two  packages  of  fii 


'V-»*, 


.a  warm  meal,  whi^  waii'VTr^  aece^uiiraftera  wSL'Sf'lStoS 


=A 


'y\\ 


^- 


=e= 

■ 

• 

,        # 

W 

, 

- T~ 

■i^- " 

.,      ,v^!' 

,        ,  -    . 

■»■ 

V 

'    '     .  ■' 

y^ 

1r    -^ ' 

\ 

\ 

m 


TO  TBI  AKCTIO  'UOtOllS. 


id  byaoob 
ss  ^nd  fivd 
kins  appa- 
st  the  tem- 
1  we  were 
^eytaknag, 

id  stoppi^ 
show  tn^ 
gr  tomigli" 
which  had 
they  were 
log  to  that 
ti  whocb  I, 
9  stores  of 
iarranlged 

sived  from 
e  well  at 
rhis  party 
expecting 
was  soon 
jr  present 
who  'Iiaci 
'■  was  alap 
had  beetii, 
itain  th^ 
id  little  tb 
ittheedSI,  g, 
him  with 
^ays  been 
titude  for 
il,  out  of 
n  Esqui- 
m.    We 
t  that  we 
power  of 

I  left  the 
wn,  and 
iokhflna* 
r  tent  on 
i  of  fish, 
lie.  8tipu«  < 
•»  which— — 
cooking 
sizteea 


*s 


?^  i5  "5*li7*"^  ^"^  "^r.  ^*^M  '*»«*>»  »« ^^*  however, 
good  beyond  tffe  place  where  Comn/ander  Ross  had  left  his  con- 
joy;  which  it  was  gratifying  to  know.  The  men  baving  Ibrsotten 
fr-^^da  '  ^^^  ^^^  Bupplied  ^ith  skins  by  our  gM^atuTMl 

At  noon,  two  of  thc^m  set  off  at  a  gr^  pace,  with  their  yddfte 
and  SIX  dogs,  to  fetch  a  third  depot  of  fish,  which  we  understoodto 
be  at  a  laid  *»  away.  They  #ere  to  hare  another  knife  for  it: 
and  \t  was  weU  worth  our  while  to  waiv  for  such  a  supply.  We 
examined  tl^r  hut  in  ihe  mean  time,  which  was  large  enough  for 
three  faiiiihes,  being  eighteen  feet  in  diameter;  but  it  was  so  much 
decayed  as  to  show  thit  it  had  been  occupied  from  a  very  early 
period  in  the  winter.  We  we»  very  kindfy  received  by  the  wi 
.  men,  and  found%n  old  one,  sicl,  or  thought  to  be  so,  to  whom  the 
sureeott  administered  some  medicine.    It  was  the  woman  of  many 

f»"!r?-  •i"**"''?.'?P*y®**.*'^'  Pl^y^c  by  the^ne  which  iausei 
.  ui  rtnkmgJSre,  which  was,  m  reality,  a  valuable  present  to  make.> 
on  her  part  They  offered  us  water,  which  is  a  scarce  article  at 
tins  aeason,  as  it  requirai  mu^h  oU  to  melt  any  quantitylbf  snow : 
togeUier  w^  salmon,  which  w<i  took,  that  we  might  not  ofiend 
them  rretummgyome  trifling  presents. 

Inquiries  abodi^amilies  and  new-born  children  were  repaid  by 
quesuons  respecting  our  own  people ;  one  of  Uie  chUdren  had  been 
name(|  Aghigga,  jn  compliment  apparently  to  Commander  R5s8. 
whose  Esquimau*  patronymic  it  was.  The  presence  of  fifty  seaU 
skins  proved  that  their  hunting  had  been  successful:  and,  besides 
the, flesh  visible  in  the^liut,  tiiere  were  depots  in  the  snow.  They 
had  furUier  killed  two  musk  oxen  and  two  bears,  hoping  that  we 
might  come  tojpwcbaae  tiie  former;  in  defect  of  whichTthey  had 
beem  eaten.  Of  die  be^r-skins  they  had  made  dresses ;  but  they  had 
noUung  of  this  naUire  to  sell  at  present  ^  ■ 

The  risiM  of  a  breeze  in  Uw  evenmg  made  our  hut  so  cold  that 
we  were  ohhged  to  construdfa  crooked  passage  for  it ;  and,  after 
a«.  It  wai  but  at  86'  minus,  at  night,  whO^  our  messengers  had  not 
returned  with  the  tsh.  We  were  obUged  to  amuse  ourselves  with 
playmg  at»the  Esquimaux  gametf  bear  and  dogs,  with  die  chU- 
dren, to  the  very  greattlelight  of  aU  the  patty. 

Atmidnkht  die  two  young  men  returned  with  the  fish,  which 
were  vety  finj,  and  weighed,  alt^edier.  a  hundrad  and  fifty  pounda. 
The  promised  knife  gave  great  satisfaction.  Their  own  appeaT. 
ance,  and  diat  of  their  dogs,  showed  diat  they  had  travelled  aW 
^"^  V  ^  ^ffo  been  absent  fourteen  hours,  which  we  om? 
puted  to  be  equivalent  to  diirty^  miles.  SK  We  sent  diem 
to  bed;  and,  at  four,  oi^r  men  rose  to  prepare  a  meal  befoiv  our 
departure,  and  to  get  ready  die  sledge. 

h  ?»!lII?Tii**^w.P"i""i'  °^  **°*®  P"*"?*'  ^  **»"«*  th«l  our  fish 


'% 


..'x'l 


«' 

—  r-— 

'—•'~  "J  "^  ""IS' 

natnad 

baeo 

■  !^ 

v_ 

■  »- 

t . ^ 

'    -i?' 

» 

\ 

.     4.- 

- 

,'■  ■   ' 

'iR^'" 

.♦-'-•■  - 

*  " 

» 

,f 

i'l 

■    *    ^^o 

^,.....  . 

1  - 

^_^^,i..^^     ■■iM^^ 

I    I 

.  I 


U 


8W    *  sn[o«]>  vofJkuB  or  ouoovirt, 

•  t^.>  'Wt       '   '       ' 

coiwumed  by  ourselves  and  the  Esquimaux,  ^e  had  now  but  two 
hundred  and  fifty  wounds.  This,  however,  together  wi^h  our  o\rn 
stores,  was  more  than  our  men,  not  very  strong,  were  able  to  trans- 
jwrt;  so  that  I  bar^ned  with  one  of  the  two  natives  to  aid  us  witb 
three  dogs,  for  which  service,  and  a  spear  which  be  had  made,  bd 
was  to  receive  a  file.  \ 

We  set  oot  accordingIy,>after  presenting  the  women  witb  a 
needleeach.   It  was  a  fine  day,  though  the  breeze  was  strong;  for* 
^ ywaWilowever,  being  with  us,  it  was  not  inconvenient^lfterft 
fpur  miles,  we  arrived  at  a  hi^  cape  palled  Neokouak,  and  then 
crossed  the  inlet  by  a  nearer  and  better  wajr  than  we  had  taken  i# 
coming,  thus  also  saving  a  mUe.    Halting  about  half  way  on  our 
journey,  for  sotae  rest  and  refreshment,  we  were  obliged  to  dispense 
wiUi  water,4or  want  of  time  to  |haw  the  snow.    We  were  slad  to 
,  find  that  the  wholg.botlom  of  .this  extensive  inlet,  which  contain!, 
the  salmon  fisheries,  warf^overed  with  good  ice,  so  that,  from  thi»^ 
place  at  least,  the  journey  would  be  easy  as  far  as  the  first  irreat' 
'   nver.  ^By  three  o'clock  we  bad  arrived  at  the  ship,  with  our  cariro 
.   safe..   It  was  a  valuable  one,  because  it  contained  fourteen  daw' 
provisions:  which,  being  fresh,  aUowed  us  also  to  ecbnomize  the 
iemon-juice,  which  was  the  ^scarcest  article  in  our  stores. 
I  \  Sui^'"*^  the, King's  birthday,  the  flags  were  aU  displayed;  an 
exhibiuon  which  seemed  much  t9  deKght  our  native  friends ;  while 
the  men  had  ektra  aHowance,  and  so  forth,  according^to  custom. 
One  of  the  natives,  being  invited  into  the  cabin,  informed  us  of 
some  of  the  afiTairs  of  his  coterie.    The  widow  of  the  dead  man  had 
*  immediately  obtained  a  new  husband;  because'  she  had  five  cHU- 
dren.    The  because  would  not  be  a  very  good  reason  in  England, 
it  IS  certain ;  the  ready  made  fs^mily  of  another  is  not  often  a  wurce 
of  much  comfort ;  and  that  it  i&  not  a  valuable  property  needs  not 
be  said.    But  here,  the  five  children  were  a  commodity  of  price, 
a  great  fortune,  a  source  of  profit  instead  of  1  Jss,  and  of  hapraness 
instead  of  vexaUon  and  torment    Even  at  eight  they  begin^be 
serviceable:  in  a  few  years  they  are  able  to  maintaih  iidore  than 
themselves ;  and  when  the  parenU  are  old,  be  they  stepchildren,  or 
entirely  and  absolutely  adopted,  as  is  also  here  the  usage,  it  is  on 
them  that  the  helpless  aged  depend  for  that  support  wSich  it  is  a 
matter  ef  course.    There  are  no  poor-rates  in  this  country. 

Whenever  this  shall  happen,  during  the  progress  of  knowledge 
and  legislation,  the  chUdren  will  cease  to  maintain  even  tbemselvfs. 
there  will  be  an  end  to  adoption,  the  widow  of  five  children  wiU 
advertise  m  Vain  for  a  husband,  they  will  all  go  to  the  work-house.  ' 
and  they  who  ci^  cateh  seals  will  bbour  to  maintain  the  idle,  tUI 
the  day  sh^ll  arrive  when  aU  wUl  starve  together.  It  is  a  Utopian 
stete  of  things  when  she-  of  five  chUdren  is  the  best  ^Twivos,  and 
can  take  her  choice  of  the  young  men:  it  is  more  than  Utopian.' 
when  populauon  is  not  poverty,  but  wealth:  when  men  really  will  •, 


^ 


r 


^ 


r  :* 


SH,. 


r^f 


TO  TRS  ABOTIO  RBOIOITS. 


'V 


3f| 


^^rr 


..SLi, ,. 


or^^IrK?  4^''!?  ^^  »abo«[of  a  m«tf  will  do,  what  it  always,  can 
hL  .S  k'^PP*"^  "°.*  """fr  '"'""^''^  •»"»  *»»08e  who  must  dei4ad  on 
him  tiTl  they  can,  and  wUf,  labour  for  themselves.    Let  iheViw  of 

ST,i  5?"  ^^""^  ¥^^[^tfd  take  lessons  of  wisdoniftpm  the  savages 

*°S    .'«''W''o°n°k  oil,  and  eat  their  fish  raw.  ^^  ^^ 

Uf  another  portion  of  their  political  economy  I  muslnot  speak 

w,Uiappr(Aat,onr  yet  there  is  some  philosophical  fitnS  in  it  too, 

■TiSfnfT^T*  **•*'  "^^^^  *>"  preceded.  We  must  not  puTa 
system  of  legislation  to  pieces,  and  then  say  that  this  or  die  other 

KTkSlhJT-,  tf *  -  IH'**  *^ '^"*®'"P'**«**  in  a  mass,  and 
Sht .  A-  •  ''^  bef  nop.  before  we  presume  to  decide  what  is 
r«ht.  that  IS  pnerally  right  which  is  most  .fitting,    k  is  the  cus. 

Wv^h^^'^T*?  "^Tf    ".^^  '^'"•°»  *S  the  same,und« 

ZSL  f®"  civilization,  I  fear  that  their  reasons  are  indefensible, 

^^^I^iS^  ??~  inquire  what  tife  were.    In  this  countiy 

«mJ^i/c^®°'*'*®u'  ""y**  physSlogically  philosophical,  fOT 

wl^^^J  ^^'^^  **»  contrary,  thoughlt  regained  to^disc^ver 

'  S  .£!!k  ^^E'^yil'^"'^  »°  practicerr  The  people  thus  consider- 

edthat  they  sUld  have  more  children:  it  i,  TgJod  thing  to  have 

V  f  good  reaaons  for  doinsr  what  may  not  be  very  rW        ^ 

and  brought  back  Sunday.  It  was  clear  and  very  cold ;  the  ther- 
mometer bemg/t  plus  3«  in  the  day,  but  falling^to  minus  iS^It 
nigftt    It  was  4  more  alkeptable  day  of  rest  than  usual :  but  hav- 

Ki^'^SrS      .  "^^'^  ^'*^?  ^  ^"^^^  wo  were  less  comfortable  be- 
low.   Our  Esquimaux  guide  returned ;  promising  to  send  back  his 
"  ^VAJ'^S  *'*"*'  »"**  wrae  blubber  w4h  we  harflosL 
H-Si    He  came  with  the  seal  accordingly,  and  had  found  the 

minus  10«  at  mght.  It  is  proUle  that  we,Wg«  already  beginning 
te  find,  m  our  persons,  a  new  scale  of  agreesitemperature,  thouirH 

'AS'SSSil'^'^  r  7?  ^"^*  cei3»?hy'Scians  iffi 

^xplain  tm tnatters.    Is  it  that  tbfe  body  generates  more  Sit  in 

1  If*'*®'''  »°<l*he  more  as  it  is  colder?  If  it  did  not,  hoW  could 

-  we  be  n  warm  #  minus  SO?  as  at  plus  10»  or  20";  putthur  out  of 

tteque2onaUcasi!^fromwinds,oranexposuretotl3&i.  But, 

Its  opimons  I  may  saytmsuch  a  madb  That  whi?h  war— --«=- 

'  !SSS*"  *  ™?"*5  ?*^'.  W  ?*»^  unwrable :  could  a  ctfl 
nur52«,occur  m  July,  withl  day  temperature  of  70"  pliis, 
rasy  to  conceive  what  the  feelings  would  )>e.  •    *^       # 

2«/A.  AfUira  iiight  tempen^ture  of  minus  16",  the  day  reaclied  ta 

plM  10;  andtlie8ttn,evenattl^i8veryUrwpointof  thepositiveicaW, 

had*a  powerful  eflect  on  the  snow,  which  wm  meltinrduringW 

hours.    At  ni^t  the  thermometer  ^ras  at  zero*  ^There  w\ 

/^  wrong  gale  with  snow  drift  on  th^following  day,  and  at  midnight 


/ 


VW 


-fl^^:mmm~' 


*  tt 


-f—r^ 


'# 


.  *>      * 


,< 


yg0y:  . :     fj 


;^^-v-.v 


TO  THC  AltOTIO  RBGIONa. 


3ia 


CHAPTER  XXXVni. 


-:g-v 


Mt 


ty-^Commander , Basses  Jourk^,j 


Jmy  1*/.  THi  temperature  nu&ced  to>-dav  betitr^^  20  «n.t  i«>o 
*Kj!frT&*"2*'"*f  *¥■  ^turned,  ha^Sig, left  bis  party 

we  other  fofiir  men  to  draWhim,  althongh  thej  -^ere  themselves 

we  Uierefore  sent  td.meet  them ;  and 
be  disabled  for  the  remainder  of  the 
ih  m  want  of  a  weej  I's  rest. 


much  fat 
while  the 
summer, 
Ck>mhii 
feeted  b 
till  the  SI 
8age,exi 


All  hands 
late  was  likejv  1 
)  others  seen'lhi 
ider  Ross  rapoi 
snow  blindness,  he 


,  Aat  from  his  part  f  having  heen  af* 
wd  not  reach  the  na.  at  Awatutyak 


day,  Monday,  Mrhen  he  proceeded  to  look  for  the  djw? 

r"  TT-j"?  nunutely  every  creek,  ahd  travers  air  the  whnlAlinA  "* 

1^^^  J^-^hedS^nnined Without hSK^^^^^ 
S^ZEJ^tT***^*'^'^'^'*"-    It  «^«t  plain  therefoi? 
"  iJt^SiJ«i*^"***r*/'?^'^*°^«*'*  t,(l5eitchUlee.w5 
L^JTa^S^J^uu^ ^^T «^f  «'*»»«  Pl^ pe, between  PMt 
i^m  and  Ehsabeth  harbour :  whence  it  wasmli^  k  huu  their  couS ,' 
be  DO  passage  nearer  than  the  latitude  of  7  Ai°  XretLi^  S 

^rLfT\ ^^J^'*  unfortunaiel^  ^A  fo  VJ«w^^^^ 
ettmuH^byland  fW>m  dur  present  poitioL;/ an  4  the^  Ld  w!^ 

iHt  iS^S.*"  '^^I^'r  «>«»<^aie"SrpJ?gr^  ' 
iP- i^^^Jfe y^»^  do. wis  to exaLf  S  • 

tf!P9^^!^^  «  <*»  peninsula;  indit  was  deter- 
»w^i;^^tW  *°""  our  next  expedition. 
,.  ™  f»«t|f  #>«  of  Commander  RSsTwas, 

IMHniMs,  and  thai  it  wi^ry^Oncelhe  the 

stofms.  IHe  furthei'  remi^rked  thift  the  pres8ui»^< 

But  his  narraUve  nptist  be^vCTi  in  OTsn  wokji^^ 


<sf-'  #,«)r 


"^ 


1 

>at  he  had  found 

>y  Jiad  journeyed 

nQmeter  was  as- 

'o  severe  snow 

the  sea  ice  had 

ed  up  th()  rocks 

>ut  one  raven. 


;  •./■ 


m 


■^  -^ji« 


■  T  ' 


ii 


'¥' 


^iniT 


■^'sc^. 


j' 


^"f^^ 


4 


"■V 

I 

m 


I 

**.- 


saooKO  vorAOB  or  ihscovkbt 


CHAPTER  3pCXIX. 


JVarrative  qf  Commander  Sqw. 

Jfpril  30.  It  was  a  matter  to  be  regretted  thut  we  could  now  no 
Ibnser -obtain  the  aid  of  the  Esquimaux,  who  had  formerly  been  of 
suoi  essential  service  to  U9,by  means  of  their  sledges  and  dogs,  and 
by  the  great  ease  and  expedition  with  whicb  the^  raised  our  tem- 
porary encampments.  We  had  nevertheless  gamed  some  experi' 
ence;  and  the  middle  of  April  made  us  anxious  to  visit  Aw-wuk- 
too-teak  oQce  more,  as  my  former  sight  of  it  was  very  imperfect, 
and  an  accurate  knowledge  of  this  qppt  was  essential  to  our  future 
operatiops.  '  *       ,  .  I  ,^         - 

W<e  left  the  ship,  therefore,  at  three  ii|i  the  momlng^f  the  20th  of 
April;  forming  a  party  of  five,  with  a  temporary  convoy  from 
the  surgeon  and  some  other  men,  who  quitted  us  at  8  o'clock.  In 
ftHhort  time  I  perceived  recent  traces  of  the  Esquimaux;  and  as 
it  was  inoportant  to  obCain  their  guida|||t|o  to  Aw-wuk-too-teak  if '^, 

rible,  I  followed  the  footsteps,  while  my  party  pro^leeded  alone 
land.  I  thus  reached  Neak-kog-nak,  where  I  saw  thrduffh 
mv  spyglass  a  snow  hut,  whence  there  came  out  three  men,  who 
aavaoeed  quickly  with  their  knives,  which  however  they  threw 
away  a«  soon  as  they  saw  me  lay  down  mv  gun,  th^n  giving  me 
the  usual  welcome.  One  of  them  was  the  old  man  Fow-weet-yah, 
the  de^th  of  whose  boy  had  caused  die  contest  between  Us  in  the 
previoijs  season,  and  whom  we  had  nbt  seen  since  thiU  time;' the 
otber  two  were  his  sons.  By  their  own  accpunit  they  had  waited 
for  us  last  summer,  as  they  had  promisedy  with  abundance  of  salmon 
and  reindeer ;  and  were  much  8urpri8ed\  at  beinff  told  that  the  ice^ 
prevented  us  from  making  way  to  the  ncnthwara,  since  they  assu- 
red us  that  there  had  been  much  clear  water  at  Ow-weet-te'teeku, 
We  learned  that  they  had  been  here  eight  days  on  their  way  nT. 
a  place,  on  the  western  sea,  called  Neak-^og-qp-geoo,  and  that  they 
intended  to  travel  across  the  country,  by  9.  chain  oflakes  leading  to/  ^ 
the  sea,  to  the  northward  of  Nei-tyel-le.  .^  Hi 

'  The  observations  made  during  the  twc^preceding  winters,  had 
lad  me  to  suspect  that  the  magiMtic  pole  Iky  in  that  direction,  and 


TO  TBI  AROnO  MOIONS. , 


815 


ainogreS^ii 

rdus  to  examijie 

OD  them,  in  consequ 

should  set  out  for  this  , 

ed  our  present  journey' 

not  prevail  on  them  tc/ 

were  willing  to  wait  myl  time,  in 
They  informed  me  t^at  they 
»  Stanley  river  during  U* 

sited  in  the  usual  w^y, : 
'.them  a  note  to  Capta^i 
"^Ineni^.-'"'.;'^  .,,-,-:p,.-. , .... 

2Ui.  The  fog  was  so 
see  but  a  fewr  yards,  yel 


from  our  ship;  and  I  Was  therefore  very  desi> 

to  which  they  were  bound.    I  prevailed 

"to  let  me  accompany  them  whenever  they 

ce;  which  womd  not  be  till  we  had  finiidi- 

d  bad  returned  to  .the  ship ;  but  I  could 

Ittend  me  to  Aw-wuk-foo-tealc,  thonghthey 

icinity. 

caught  many  salmon  in  the 

Sreced|i%  autumn,  which  they  had  depo- 
weriB  willing  |o  sell  to  us,  on  my  |;iyi|ig 
oss,ywhich  was  to  jerve  asa  bill  in  pay- 


!<;.—. 


ik  at  four  in  the  tnonung  that  we  could 
departed  at  six,  as  they  were  averse  to 
go  to  the.  Victory  till  W3  had  departed.  Our  first  attempts  wertf^ 
much  impeded  by  this  danse  fog,  but  at  nine  it  became  clear,  luia 
we  continued  our  journey  up  the  inlet  of  An-ne-r&«k-to,  and  thenee 
along  the  valley  of  the  S  tanley,  encamping  at  last  on  the  north  bank ' 
of  the  the  lake  at  its  held. 

22d.  Our  departure  on  this  morning  was  again  dekured,  by  f<^ 
and  snow,  till  nihe,  when  we  crossed  ihe  hish  ridge  wfi^  separates 
the  two  lakes  at  this  pliice,  ycifwith.  much  toil,  from  tbe  dc 
the  new  snow.  At  tbreje  in  the  afternoon,  the  sun  ib^fie  ^ 
with  such  .effect  on  the  ^hite  ground,  that>Jome  of  the  ml_  ..^_ 
Very  shortly  seized  with  inflammation  in  the  eyes,  so  diat  we  were 
compelled  to  halt  at  six  and  encamp  for  the  night.  Our  position 
^was  on  the  n(>rth-west  bank  of  the  lake ;  imd  though  all  tne  usual 
means  of  checking  this  inflammation  were  adopted,  diree  of  the 
party  was  so  blinded  by  its  eflfects,  that  we  were  obliged  to  rest 
during  the  Whole  of  the  day.  The  latitude  here  was  70°  39'  10", 
and  the  longitude  0**  88*  ^est  of  the  diip. 

SStf.  The  stw  on  thisj  morning  was  so  bright,  that  though  our 
c&mpknions  were  cured,  I  did  not  think  it  prwlent  to  go  on  during 
tite  day.  We  therefore!  deferred  our  departure  ^^j^MPkin  the 
eiliung,  intending  to  tn^Vel  by  n^ht,  to  avoid  the  ral|P|MPlce  of 
the  same  inconvenien<Se.j  ' 

24M.  At  two  in  the  flnornixfg  we  reached  the  spot  where  our  but 
had  been  built  in  the  prjficeding  year.  In  spite  of  a  fresh  breeze 
from  the  north  accompataied  by  some  drifl  snow,  the  weather  was 
very  fine,  and,  although  jwith^^tnuch  labour,  we  at  last  succeeded  in 
8urmountingwithourHedffethehill9thatlayl)etween  us  andthe^e 
"'w>wuk-too-teaL    We  had  finished  this  goumey  by  six  in  the 

9ming,  and  encamped  on  the  north  diore  of  me  lake,  about  a 
quarter  <^  a  mile  firom  the  exit  of  the  river  which  flows  from  it  to 
'.^esea.    •  ^  ;  .    '.         ■•* 

#1  here  ascendecl  the  bill  of  Ac-cood-le-ruk-tuk,  and  the  meming 
oein^  clear,  obtigned  a  very  wide  view,  incliiding  the  entrance  of 
the  udui  wMch.  had  w.  long  been  the  oajeet  of  our  punailt   if 


.   ■*• 


^    :  #^" 


;^v 


M. 


i 

i 


■% 


*■"? 


'?,., 


to 'Be  about  five  miles  distant,  but  did  not  seem  very 

.    Some  observations  vrhich  I  procured,  gave  the  latitude 

at  70°  88'  ai ",  and  the  lonffitude  at  b,W  West  of  thf  ship.  Above 
our  encampniient  rose  the  hill  Il-lbw.na-lig,"and  here  was  a  snow 
hut  m  Tuins  that  had  formed  the  solitary  winter  residence  of  NoW- 
76n-noo-ah  aM^il^Mii  - 

?5/A.  Ai0tr^fm^m0mipto<feeded  down  tKe  course  of 
the  nver  to  i^  estuary,  under  considerable  suflering  from  the  lame- 
ness of  some  of  the  men,  consequent  nn  the  freezing  of  thei|ftJbo(^ 
and  from  the  blindness  of 'jinotber.  The  termination  of  thll  4nlet 
qemg  visible  from  an  eminence  which  I  nc^  ascended,  and  tilno 

Sreat  distance,  I  Caused  the  men  to  encamp,  and  proceeded  w:ith 
Lbemethy  to  examine  it.  It  was  not  that  I  here  expected  to  find 
that  openug  ^hich  the  Esquimaux  had  den^ribed  to  us  as  leading 
to  the  western  sea  at  Nei-tyeWe,  becausf  that  one,  by  their  %- 
count,  was  sb  wide,  that  in  some  places,  one  of  the  shores  couH 
not  be  seen  from  the  opposite  side,  though 'the  land  on  both  was 
high.    Yet  we  had  not  examined  the  present 'one  wh^we  paiied 
down  the  coa^tjjn  1829,  and  as  it  was  the  only  oile  that  baj  been 
negtected,  1  thought  it  necessary  to  makejibinutr  investigaltitt  of 
It,  that  we  miMit  not  be  detained  for  this  pl^se  when  we 
pj^oceed  northjward  in  the  ship  during  the  ensuing  lummer.    ..ym 
;,^  This  survet  wa9  finished  in  a  satisfactory  manner  by  ievcn* 
the^moming  bf  the  86th,;  so  as  to  unite  this  pijrt  of'^the  coaslil 
with  that  whiih  we  had  explored  from  the  ship.    The  latitude 
■our^ncamraiMint  was  70<*  4J»'  8",  and  the  kn^uido  0**  40'  1"  weirt 

Id  th^oA  of  this  Witt  Ifound  the  mounnoenti  which,  we  had 
wectAil  in  Au#ist|.1829,  bu^  ibb  Esquimaux  had  intermeddled  with 
^m^cilil  tak$i  ^»ay  the  ccfos  that  we  had  deposi^.    Here,  as  m 
places  on  this  shore,  the  rocks  consisted  of  led 
estone,  the  westei^  side  dinplayinglthe  former,  and 
the  latter,    m  "view  seaward  exl^ibiteda  level  of 
ng6  o£  am  hariMan,  where,  jhowever,  there' 


% 


maJB^  oth 
|.granite.and 
^thfijilptemoi 
'sl^'ice 
"wete  sharp 

^llaviDg  t 
detCffihined 
this  shore 


ibrma|^  bel^^n^  to  the  preced- 


_  ,  liHied  the  main^^eet  ol  our  journey;  I 
itom  to  ti^  ,i3iip  by  the'  sea-coast,  [so  as  to  survey 
^c^pitely  than  we  had  jHreviously  been  able  to  do. 
09ai  half-past  fve  in  the  aAenx^n,  and  in  spite 
;,  contrived  to  keej^  <OB^al<Mig  the  i  shore.  On  the 
,  at  one  in  the  moniing,  we  reached  the  entrance  of 
-r--. — ^-*  «nd  found  our  progress  much  fabiliuted  by  the 
smooth  state  Qf  the  ice,  though  the  snow  was  ofle^  kn^  deq>.  A 
strong  br^zej  with  much  dnfl,  compelled  us,  however,  to  halt  at 
length,  at  four  o'clock,  on  the  southern  bank  of  thib  isthmus,  when 
there  came  o^  the  most  violent  gale,  attended  bv  drifUi^  snoW, 


therefpf 
ii^deii8&> 
jwen^seve. 
Fort  Elizabe 


■';.x 


m 


«^-v 


/to  TBI  ARono  wtoioira. 

SjhtJ*  *"***  *"""  ?^*°**^'  I^wting'tUl  (be  noon  of  the  twa^ 
It  then  moderat^a,  and  the  weather  became  fine  in  the  afteraoon: 

»teS"S  ""i  ^'Tr**!**  T™"^  confinement  in  our  snow  burrow 
which  we  alwj^y.  felt  to  be  more  painful  than  even  a  hard  da/s 
wort    we  contrived  to  proceed  on  bur  journey  at  eiirht,  but  tha 

V    hI!™?Si.^  """"l^^  '  ^*'"*'  *X  •"•'*''»''»•  ^^  win«f  which  had 
\  ^^lA^V  r*  ^'^  "**  ."  *°  ^''^^  ^'•^'^^  in  our  faces.    We 

SS?„.T^"T*^  ^y?™*  """^  calculation,  in  consequence  of  the 

-  i??i  ""^f  had  undergone,  that  we  were  oblig^  to  proceed! 

MdUiusconUiipl  our  journey  tiU  six  in  the  morninVbf  the'SJ^^: 

iu^hU'fS!^''^^^^^^  now  found  to  have  been  frost-bitten 
SL5S-  ^°?t  H»  »  ▼WT  «'rere  manner ;  but  by  applying  the  usual 

^  STihfS  */~"  "»fla«mation.    Tffiis  caused  our  detention^ 

the  thirtieth  at  noon,  when  we  contrived  to  place  the  man  on  a 

^,  stedge  and  proceed  tpwanb  the  riiip.    At  fifst^  the  traveC^I 

I  ipasy ;  but.  on  rounding  a  point  of  "land  ejtposed  to  the  nora.^he 

^  cewas  found  very  rugged  and  apparantlyiija^able,  bei^  iS^ 

up  in  a  confusion  of  plied  blocks,  often^reac^Sng  to  the^ig?t  of 

2,  Sfh-  ^f*^  ^f^^f^  ^"*  ^J^^  "**«*»•  however,  we  couFd 

■ee  the  level  ice  at  the  distance  of  a  few  miles,  which  icouwired 

us  lo  attempt  the  crowing  of  this  obstructionTlt  proved  t^teS^ 

«r  SIX  miles  m  breadth ;  vet,  bv  dint  of  exertions  fnd  ftJigueVsuch 

J^J^^  T^V'-  r^*  wd  experienced,  we  succeedKiS^ 

^  It,  tho^  not  without  much  suffering  to  our  disabled  comwS^ 

Ion  ^r    r  ^««1""'«»«  wWch  the  ste^  underwent    tSTS^ 

fion  alone  of  our  journey  occupied  us  tv^lve  hours,  "^ »"' 

^^Kuf  ^^^  of  the  party  had  been  thus  completely  exhtfust- 
Sit*Jf*M  "^^  ^*f  oompelted  to  hak  at  twoia  tJmoriing  oHh. 
firstjf  Mayi  about  three  mUes  to  the  soutfafKjUf  Andrei  R«2 
wland.  iut  a.  our  nrovisions  were  now  iiSftlSei3S,^rd  «  h 
was  necessary  that  iKe  disabled  man  »hoi3ffiKical  wSstw^ 
as  soon  as  possible,  while  in  addition,  the  seST^KjJS 
iw  wme  houw,  I  set  out  alone  for  the  ship,  that  I  mS^S^ 
"^^[to  the  party  as  soon  as  possible.  ««  "ua  some 

The  distance  was  only  twenty  mOes,  but  the  road  beinir  bad  I 
?w  not  arnve  on  board  tUl  eleven  in  the  morning.  AH  X  wew 
able  for  the  journey  ^ere  then  despatched  to  thei  shinmaSi  «iS 
joon^fter  midnight  the  whble  we^safe on  iSS.  tTylS^'JS^ 
had  been  the  frost-bitten  man,  had  wflered  3  from^Sl' JT 
veyance;  but  the  care  of  our  surgeon  soot  reUevUwm'SL^K 
mojt  painful  effects  yf  hi.  iiijuiy.  ^  ^r^t^^^^'J^, 


■ 


'>,m 


■\ 


aits 


sEdoifD  voYAan  orDiaoovmir  \^ 


Lt.i'" 


« 


CHAPTER  XL. 


Journal  of  Majff^  Journej/ in  company  witk  the  Natives. 

Majf2A  Tyro  of  the  natives  had  arrived  yesterday  with  the 
promised  supphr  of  a  seal,  which  weighed  178  pounds,  bringihg 
F  ?''»o  nye^  large  fishes  called  by  them  erkalook-aitJoo ;  when,  infom^ 

ing  us  that  thev  had  another  store  of  fish  for  sale,  they  were  sent 
ta  fetch  It.  The^eather  was  cold  to-day,  with  the  thermometer 
about  zero.  3d.  On  Tnesday  the  natives  returned  with  a  seal,  but 
only  with,  a  small  supply  of  fish,  as  they  had  not  been  aWe  to  find 
their  hoard :  there  were  but  sixty.fi ve  pounds.  • 

4th.  The  temperature  rose  to  plus  20»,  and  the  mean  was  4'^. 
1  he  two  men  left  us,  with  a  promise  to  bring  ua  more  salmon,  and 
\  1^*  ••  '?M?"*^  **Y*-  They  were  to  fish  here  in  the  autumn,  and 
at  JNeitchillee  in  the  winter.  Our  mw  cooking  apparatus  proved 
effe<^tive:  its  advantage  being,  that  it  wx>uld  require  no  fuel  but 
taUow  or  oil.  5M,  and  6th.  The  ice  near  us,  being  cut  through, 
was  five  feet  and  a  half  thick;  the  temperature  at  night,  zero.  7th. 
u^  ?*2  Wl  V^^^y  ^as  sent  to  bring  back  some  stores  that  had 
been  left  behind  to  make  room  for  the  lame  matp;  and  thus  ended 
toe  week. 

8/A.^^er  church  we  received  a  visit  from  some  native  families. 
One  of  the  men^undertook  to  guide  us  to  Neitchillee,  by  the  lakes, 
m  ei^ht^days ;  his  reward  to  be  a  pole.'  9th.  Another,  who  had 
remained  on  board,  went  home  on  the  following,  promising  to 
returri  in  four  days.  lOM.  Neither  on  these>two  days  nor  the  suc- 
ceeding, was  there  much  change :  though  the  mean  temperature 
was  gradually  increasing.    I     „ 

1 IM.  There  was  a  strong  gale,  with  drift  snow,  this  day,  which 

settled  into  a  stiflT  breeze  on  tho  following.    12th.  Tlie  native  le- 

.  turned,  but  had  nothing  to  ^11  except  some  dothing.    18M:  The 

^  preparauons  for  traveTUng  were  in  progress;  and,  among  other 

things,  provisioM  for  twelve  men  during  three  weeks  were  made 

ready.    MM.  The  weather  promised  better,  as  the  thermometer 

now  rose  to  tlie  freezing  point  at  noon,  beuig  12®  at  night 

15th.  Many  tricka  oT  reihdfwr  Wfire  leen  by  thft  men  in  their  - 


Sj^' 


If 


,.  |0  THB  ARCTIC  RCOIOir«> 


aio 


Sunday  walk:  these  aniinals  were  apparently  returning  for  the 

sumraen    Monday  morning  was  employed  in  preparing  every  thinij 

for  our  journey ;  and,  at  eight  in  the  evening,  the  first  sledge,  with 

the  pontoon  and  three  weeks'  provisions,  and  the  second  with  the 

««me  quantity  of  provisions  alone,  each  calculated  for  six  men,  set 

t>ut  to  e^iplore  thei  second  chain  of  lakes  and  the  west  coast  of  the 

/   peninsula,  as  far  to  the  northward  as  it  was  possible  to  reach.  These 

parties  were  to  be  guided  through  the  lakes  by  two  of  the  natives. 

CalculaUng  that  we  should  reach  the  west  coast  in  sdven  days,  our 

.  design  was,  that  the  second  division  under  Commander  Hoss  should 

continue  their  investigations,  while  the  first  returned  for  a  supply 

-of  provisions,  then  contriving  to  come  back  to  the  former  by  the 

shortest, rout    It  was  our  further  purpose  to  obtain  from  the  na- 

tives  soBfie  more  geogra()hical  informaUon*  and  also,  suppties  of 

provisions  and  clothing.  / 

16(J.  We  made  nine  miles  before  mid-day ;  the  weather  being 
fine,  but  cold.^  On  the  next,  we  arrived  at  the  native  huts  at 
iNeptaknag;  preceding  the  sledges  about  an  hour,  and  pitching  our 
tent.  Pur  promised  guides  were  to  be  ready  in  the  eveningf  and 
•  ^<JJ"9^"».t*»t  many  reindeer  had  passed  lately^ followed  by  a 
wolf,  We  had  formerly  found  aimong  them«  a  piece  of  a  large 
«)ar,flome  iron  hoops,  and  some  stores,  and  had  suspected  that  thev 
had  been  either  stolen  from  us,  or  sold  by  some  of  the  men;  but  our 
tfisagrtoeable  suspicions  were  now  removed,  and  the  mystery  solved. 
Ihey  yvete  articles  that  wo  had  formerly  thrown  overboard  to 
make  room,  and  they  had  be^n  found  by  those  people.  I  ascended 
a  hill  about  800  feet  high,  to  examine  the  country ;  and,  by  eveninir. 
our  guides  were  ready,  punctual  to  their  promises. 

Our  march  had  a  very  nomadic  and  new  appearance,  as  the  line 
of  It  also  was  somewhat  picturesque.  The  mother  df  the  two  men 
fed  the  way  m  advance,  with  k  staff  in  her  hand ;  my  sledge  follow- 
ing, with  the  doM,  holding  one  of  their  chUdren  and  so^  of  their 
goods,  and  guided  by  a  wife  with  a  child  at  her  back.  Another 
nauve  sledge  followed  in  the  same  manner;  next  to  which  was 
commander  Ross%  and  lastly  the  other  Esquimaux  sledge:  the 
rear  bemg  brpught  up  by  a  native  drawing  two  sluns  pf  oil,  and,  at 
a  dista^,  purselves  with  one  of  the  Kttle  boys,  l&any  halts  wei« 
made,  as  ou^rdens  were  heavy,  the  snow  deep,  and  the  ice 
rough.' „ '*%^ffij^    .  ;;  .-  ■  "■:,■_ 

I8ihi  Jlf e^^ifwitli  diflSculty  persuad«i  our  guides  to  persist. 
When  we  aMaSt  j^jtched  our  tent,  and  the  natives  enscted  their  snow 
huts.  It  then  came  on  to  blow  bard,  with  snow,  till  noon.  We 
had  now  passed  across  the  bottom  of  the  spacious  bay  and  the  mouth 
of  the  ffreat  nver,  named  after  Lord  Lindsay,  being  the  place  where 
we  had  obtained  the  salmon  last  year;  and  being  thua  about  thrae 
miles  from  the  mam,  and  close  within  a  range  of  rocky  islands  lyine 
in  a  north  and  south  direction.  On  each  hand  the  fond  was  luffh. 
and  ,ttjo  mountain  Kakoloktok  l^fore  un.    Our  course  had  hithe^^ 


»; 


J^i 


820 


.  spobiro  vOTAoM  or  oiaoovcRr 


■m 


Kh 


i  I 


i,^*' 


t   * 


\     ."^ 


been  aa  nearly  m  possible  to  the  «outhw«nl,aod  the  distance  which 
vre  had  travelled  Wfourteen  miles. 

Jn  the  evening,  aU  was  again  ready,  vA  Commander  R«>ss  de- 
parted for  the  mountain  just  named,  to  take'aiuries,  while  the  march 
was  renewed.    An  we  advanced,  the  inlet  became  narrower,  and 
manv  more  islet?,  appear^,  indicating  shftUow  water.    We  soon 
•    reached  a  small  nfrer,  on  each  side  ofwhich  was  a  rocky  hfU,  five 
or  sir  htodred  feet  high,  as  there  was  also  a  dbannel  to  the  east  of 
the  island,  leading  along  the  main,  by  which  the  distance  to  the 
ship  could  be  materially  shortened  in  netuming.    The  snow  and 
ice  rendered  the  travelhng  difficult,  and  we  proceed  very  slowly. 
At  nine  we  passed  th^  mouth  of  another  small  river,  called  Sdkin- 
nohunuting,  and  arrived  at  length  ak^t  of  thefiver  &marea*    * 
llus  w  on  the  nineteenth,. and^here  we  joined!  Commander 
Koss.    We  were,  surprised  at  finding  this  river  opin,  but  were 
more  so  to  learn  that  it  Ijfd  been  in  .this  state  all  the  winter.  While 
It  was  now  running  in  a  iiotasiderable  stream.    On  further  inqyirt-, 
,-We  found  tl^t  there  were  1nany  8prin|s  id  th^lake  above,liHich 
yrn»  a  mile  off    We  now  hauled  the  sTedgesiQver  a  ridge,  and  ob-' 
taiijed  a  view  of  it,  lying,  as  it  seemed,  in  ja  south-west  direction,. 
*kL°"®/TV**?^  P^^^*'  confined  by  pr^ices  eighty  feet  high, 
through  which  It  forwwl  its  wiiy  in  a  space  so  narrpw  that  we  mi|ht 
almost  fi^icy  we  could  jump  a4R>ss  it    The  teihperature  a  Ma  ' 

"^""^'AlSi  ?t '  ■"**  ?*  ^"PP"^  ™  •"  '^^  drink,  «|iich  wan  Sk 
ver^  diffifeult'io  procure  any  where  else.  '^    ^ 

TJie,ic^  the  lak^  Jtza  nOt  so  deeply  covered  with  snow|as  that 
ontiie^arbut  it  bore  ho  marks  of' drssolution.    We  proci-"^ 
along  fte  west  side  of  Jt,  inhere  a  high  precipice  of  Uie  hiodi 
Jescended,ahd,pitched  our  tent  at  tiie  dutapce  of  three  niiles  i 

•.  MT*  u'   ^  ^  *"*■  ^^^  e^'^  ^^  hM  br«»ded  us.    in 
spite  lof  all  ourcaution  and  care,  one  of  the  men  suffers!  from  a 

if®^V°^  and  was  of  little  use  during  Uie  remainder  of  tlie  journey; 
he  ha^  concealed  the  injury  so  long  Uiat  we  coufcf  do  little  good : 
the  similar  accident  of  ailoUier«fian  was  easily  remedied,  as  he  had 
,j  titnely  notice  of  the  injury.  .    -       -   --  » , 

he  natives  were  here  employed  in  n»king|»iy^ 
heajpr  sto1«,  of  provisions  and  6ther  matters ;  amfby  this  we  were 
mudlj  lightened.    They.  al|o  made  some  sledges  of  the  fresh-watei* 
ice;  the  shape  teiiiff  that  of  a  shalk>w|'elliptical  basin.    Ttvo  of 
these,  fastened  torather,  confained  a  considerlble  quantity  of  their  '4 
goods,  and-  cpuldcarry  one  of  the  wqme^  on  the  top  of  all :  while, 
though  very  heavy,  thev  travelled  with  considerable  repidity. 
Jt  was  Mt  till  mne,  however,  that' they  were  ready  to  march, 
when  we  (Continued  tk«g  the  west  s|te  of  the  lake,  the  old  woman  ■ 
ttfli  leading  the  way :  finding  the  sid^  higb  and  rocky,  itsbreadUiV 
-varying  from  oMIo  two  mUes,  and  ii«  dii^on  more  westerly.   aJB 

00  the  iouth  side,  «nd  having,  on||||^r.  a  ^jv  |^)int  /overed. 


■,*«:y.. 


.y 


'..'-: 


■I"' 


%■• 


TO  THB  AROTIO  REGIOirS. 


3 


~» 


38? 

a2«>     *;  "^  ^^'"P'^'^ture  of  the  water  Mma'hoWever  but  iurit  ahnv«^ 

,.    swalt  piece,  altacheTto  ^a^,^  AT^^r'^"'^  "'•*  f""- 
scribed.     \     ":°"  a^^red  by  the  tarbed  machine  ibrmerJy,  de- 
arrived  at  anX^sK  ti^h  ^^  '  f ''  '**':?'?'  ''''^"•*«'  «"  ^e' 

mometcf  at  night  fell  Jbel(^wlero  ^       '^'  ""tiliaJhSr-. 


•-** 


■r 


•(V 


'^iH 


I 


%< 
V 


"¥* 


el 


,^*#k 


.«' 

*     1 

/ ! 

4J 

' '  -<<*-^B 

....J-    3^ 

•  J 

H 

'1 

1 

^ 


■~r 


.*.'.V 


T^ 


.,  4  .'  ■  ■■ 


7. 


•"       ..*!«»  •«».,^Jt.'' 


■N 


322 


SEOblTD  VOVAOB  OF  DISCOVESAT 


f  i-  ■ 

|b 

1 

t . 

,.« , 

:(-;■' ' 

■^■^  •*;  ■■ 

W'-: 

,>  : 

1*     ' 

*■; 

KI:.  ^'^ 

■■"*  ■■*■      i 

■~^ 


themldmeter  was  not  below  20".    Thi?  ^reat  lake  wn?  named  a|^, 
the  justly  celebrated, Admiral  Von  kmsenstern.  * 

22nrf.  The  gale  did  not  allow  uf  to  move;  uor  would  the  E^.. 
quimaux  have  consented..   The  thermometer  sank  to  3°.    The  next  • 
morning  the  wind  abated,  but  still  thesfe  people  would  not  go  till 
their  companions  had  joined  them,  which  they  could  not  have  done 
during  the  bad  weather  of  the  preceding  day.    Nothing  was  to  be 
seen  but  a  vast  expanse  of  snow,  covering  a  flat  country,  so  low  near 
the  water,  that  we  could  not  discover  where  the  boundary  was. 
We  learned  from  one  of  the  men,  that  there  was  a  third  chain  of 
lakes  to  the  westward,  emptying  themselves  into  the  etfstern  sea  by 
the  great  river.  .:      ' 

At 'four,  the  two  men  who  had  remained  behind  game  up^  ani 
built  a  hut;  informing  us  that  there  was  another  lake  to  'the  eas^ 
ward,  having^the  same  name  as  the  one.  which  we  were  next  to  • 
reach,  viz.  Tishagriahiu,  which  I  named  after  my  friend  Captain 
Jekyll,  R.  N.     While  they  were  preparing  to  set  */iit,  we  had  time 
to  examine  a  new  sledge  Virhich  they  had  brought  up,  and  which  we 
found  no  less  beautiful  than  extraordinary.    It  was  of  the  shape  of 
an  ordinary  one,  but  made  entirely,  of  ice,  runners  and  all,  and, 
while  very  neatly  made,  having  a  most  delicate  appearance.   Being 
transparent,  it  seemed  indeed  to  be  a  sledge  of  crystal,  while  it  w^ 
strong  enough  to  bear  the  weight  of  all  the  stores  which  the  owner 
had  heaped  on  it.     Being  all  ready,  we  departed  at  eleven  o'clock. 
24th.  We  now  passed  over  several  necks  of  land,  ffrid  across 
some  small  lakes,  guided  by  marks  which  were  so  obscured  by  the  t* 
SQOw,  that  our  guides  were  often  obliged  to  stop  and  consult  tbge- 
.th^r.    At  tweiire  we  crossed  a  river,  and  entered  a  small  lake ;  and, 
at  four,  passed  a  ridge  of  land ;  arriving  after  this,  at  a  valley  filled 
with  snow,  and  coiilaining  a  lake,  out  of  which  issued  a  river,  along 
the  course  of  which  we  went  lill  we  had  reached  the  expajjse  of 
water  which  it  served  to  drain.    We  found  it  to  be  about  two  miles 
long,  and  that  if  wasjoinfed,  at  no  great  distance,  to  anotheAr,  by  ^ 
means  of  a  river  which  united  some  more  in  this  series,  so  as  t*  con- 
stitute a  general  declivity  and  draining.    These  two  were  ^amed  ' 
after  Professor  Hanstein.    At  length  vje  finished  this  day'si  journey, 
after  liaving  travelled  fifteen  miles,  pitching  our  tents  at  last,  abput 
ten  o'clock.    The  land  over  which  we  hwi  thus  travelled  was,  once 
more,  of  granite :  the  river  which  we  had  passed  Jn  this  journey, 
w'as  three  hundred  yards  wide.    The  latitude  of  6ur  position  wa* 
flO"  46'  !&)' ,  arttr  the  longitude  95*.  ' 

It  was  soon  necessary,  however,  to  move  again ;  two  of  )he  na-  ^ 
tives  whom  we  had  left  behind  now  ipining  us.'  Here,  as  at  eveqr 
place  ^here  we  had  stopped,  they  deposited  a  ttore,  to  await  them 
on'  their  return ;  b6t  it  #as  with  much  difficulty  that  one  of  them 
could  be  persuaded  to  proceed,  which  I  believe  ho  would  not  have 
done,  had  he  toot  feared  to  lose  the  proinpsd  reward.    We  s»w 


<*■<>■ 


'^r'  «t 


s.>- 


mmm 


*^ 


TO  THE  ARCTIC  aBGIOliy. 


S88 


some  wolves,  together  with  a  raven  and  an  owl:  a  wolf' had  been  * 
fired  at,  before  this,  without  success.    The  temperature  at  mid- 
night was  14°  plus.  ^  .' 

25th.  We  began  our  journey  at  this  time,  with  a  cloudy  sky  and 
a  fresh  westerly  breeze.    Crossing  *  ^mall  lake,  we  arrived  at« 
ridge  separating  those  which  w^had  passed  after  leaving  the  great 
lake  Knasenstern,  entering  firsHoif  a  very  nprrow,  lake,  and  then 
mto  the  channel  of  a  river  that  led  juitp  »Jarger  oni?  two"  miles  o£ 
Halting  here  for  akhour,  we  proceeded,  at  five,  and  dressing  ano- 
Uier  ridge  for  foar|riile6,  arrived. at  the  great  lakd  just  mentioned. 
This  lay  east  and  west,  and  seemed  ten  miles  long;  but  the  snow- 
did  nbt  allow  its  breadth  to  be  ascertained.    The  land  was  part  of 
Boothia  Felix,  and  there  were  several  low  fslands  at  the  east  end. 
_  It  was  said  to  abound  in  fish ;  the  saltjjgn  entering  it  from  the  wes-r— 
tern  sea,  through  a  great  river.    Hence,  after  walking  twelve  houra^ 
and  having  trfivelled  over  a  distance  of  eighteen  nU&Br4K§  pitched 
;  our  tents  at  its  northern  side.    It  snowed  heavily  all  thisday,«i»i  '  • 
the  thermometer  was  at  30°  at  noons 

26M.  We  started  at  one  in  the  morning,  and  keeping  a  westerly 
direction,  reached  the  ehd  of  the  lake  in  two  hours ;  wnen^  passing 
a  ridge  of  land  again,  we  came  to  a  riverfll|lled  after  the  Crown 
Princess  of  Sweden,  ¥nd  having  crossed  it?lrrived  at  the  channel      . 
of  the  great  river.    After  a  needful  halt,  we  came  to  jts  niouth^ 
which  was  at  the  bottom  of  an^inleOhree  miles  long.    It  was  that 
which  had  been  formerly  surveyed  by  Commander  Ross.    The    ,  . 
land  was  here  rugged  and  Drecipitous,  andfas  wm  here  rai«,,it  wa»  '" 
somewhat  romantic:  the  pHp^wl^re  we  fifst  stopped  was  caU^fl  '^■■ 
Padliakjand  the  entfance  of  tlie  inlet  had  beea  ascertained  to  Ije' 
thirtyrfive  miles  from  it,  west  %r  north.    .At  this  place  we  saw  a 
herd  of  twelve  reindeer.  ^"  ^         '  ; 

27t&.  Here  we  also  found  three  famiHes  of  our  acquaintance  in 
two  huts;  but  were  vexed  to  leamthat  Kablala  had'departed  spme 
time  ago,  thatjkmallik's  party  |r|s  beyond  NeitchiUe^,  and  thai  we 
had  no  chance  of  seeing  either. yWe  f^ere  glad  to  find,  however;   '  ' 
that  they  had  been  veijy  successful  in  killing  deer  last  winter;  and 
we  bought  a  deer^skfn  and  a  pair  of  trousers,  wiUi  a  skm  of  oil  for ' 
fuel,  as  our  own  was  nearly  exfjpided.    At  ten  at  night  we  again  - 
atai^ed ;  the  plan  being,  that  Commander  Ross  rituadid  explore  the 
coast  to  the  westward,  and  myself  jlhat  to  the  eastw|M,  returning  by 
Padliak.    As  the  former  had  fifteen  days'  provifrafis,  I  settled  that 
they  would  be  able  to  travel  outwards  4uriag  at^ast  six  of  those. 
But  as  I  theti  took  leave  of  them,  so  must  I  no^  defer  any  acepunt 
(^ their  proceeJfngs  till  the  time. arrives  for  giving  theliidwn  report 
of  their  journey  and  its  results.    Aftei;  parting,  we  proceeded  ou- 
tward ourselves   first  passiujg  an  inlet  formerly  exafni^id,  after  that      \ 
a  valley  i*^^  a  river,  and  then,  lastlj^,  Cape  Isabella,  wbere  we  ar- 
rived St  midnijjhf ,  throu^  very  thick  and  foggy  weather. 
.     88/A    We  pitbbed  about  >tke  middle  of  Facfliak  bay ;  but  die  sun     ' 


i 


If 


•^ 


■1j 


i*f«*K»f;. 


•jiii  VHngliB 


-*«^ 


824  SECOND  VOYAGE  or  DISCOVERY' 

being  obscured,  could  not  well  make  Out  our^ourse.  Neverthe- 
less we  started  at  «ight,  though  the  men  complained  much  of  theit 
eyes ;  guessing  our  route  as  well  as  we  could,  amid  the  darkness 
and  confusion  which  was  produced  by  the  density  of  the  fog»  ^V 
midnight  we  arrived  i'fet  an  opening  resembling  that  which  le^tia 
from  Padliak  to  the  great  lake ;  where,  fiiidthg  no  natives,  I  deter- 
mined to  proceed,  as  sooa  as  we  had  made  tHenecessai^  half,  since 
our  provisions  were  now  becoming  short  But  havitig  serine  ilime' 
on  rrty  hands«  in  consequence,  I  here  repealed"  the  observations  ' 
which  I  had  formerlj'  mad^or  the  purpose  of  oetermining  the  heighi 
of  th^s  lake  above  the  M'-el  of  the  sea.  .,  •       V   ^      ' 

29M.  Our  tent  was  on  an  elevation,  whence  I  could  obtain  a  good ' 
view  as  soon  as  the  weather  should  become  clear,  but  there  was  a^ 
gale  with  snow,  lasting  all  the  day.    In  the  evening  ft  moderatedrt 
and  enabled  m^  to  see  Cape  Isabella  on  the  \it^e«tern  sea,  and  the 
high  land  of  Shag<a-vokc  to  the  east;  but  I  could  not  make  out  vrfle-^ 
ther  we  had  com^  by  the  estsitern  or  the  western  lake.    Nevert^je- 
less  we  continubd  ^ur  journey,  aiid  found  a  tolerable  road  to  the- 


^^ 


-■«> 


..^ 


lake  which  was. nearest  to  us;  but* the  new  and  deep  snow  hadj0\- 

"     ly  \  V 
jPh  I  had  formerly  been  so  well  acquaii^e 
We  however  pontrivecno  make  our  way  to  this  lake,  whichever  it 


altered  the  appearance^f  the  land,  that  I  scarcely  recognized  am 
of  the  objects  with  >vP)  I  had  formerly  been  so  well  acquaii^ed. ; 
ivecTto  ~    '     "     *  ■    '  '        ••  ' 


was ;  gladly  finding  on  it  a  surface  far  more  practicable  for  travel* 
ling  than  the  rough  ice  of  the  I§nd  which  we  h&d  hitherto  latwured 

\  through,  under  no  small  fatigue^,  Havinj^  thus  far  euccee'ded  in  get- 
ting upon  a  roorb^^agreeablfi  roa«l,  if  road  it  might  be  called,  we  pro- 
ceeded along  its  sbuthj^astern  side,  seeing  a  great  many  snow  bunt- 
ings in  the  course  of  this  walk,  and  well  pleased  to  meet  with  these  % 
harbingers  of  the  spring-time  of  this  wintry  lagd.  A  spring  indeed, 
of  which  the  njigrations  of  those  and  the  other  animals  which  instinct 
drives  to  tftese  regions,  is  the  only  sign,  since  all  else  is  deep  winter.  ' 
Why  thfjy  oonrie,48  better  kn^wn  to  themselves  than  to  me,  since  we 
coujd  n^r:At  this  early  season  discover  where  they  found  their  food ; 
but  it  fs  best  known  to  I^m  who  directs  their  flights,  and  who  as  he  can- 
not deceive  them,  has  assuredly  provided  for  them  those  stores  which 
He  has  ordered  them  to  seek,  that  the  table  which  he  thus  has  furnish-      ,, 

■  ed  for  them  in  the  wilderness  shall  not  be  wasted  for  want  of  guest& 

80M.  The  ureather  was  calm  lind  fine  till  four;  and  at  eight  >ve.j{*, 
pitched  our  tent  on  the  land,  having  travelled  fourteen  miles :  afiter*^ 
which  it  became  so  .thick,  that  we  could  not  proceed.    We  however    - 
started  again  at  .eight ;  and,  after  some  difficulty,  found  the  valley 
which  led  to  Shag-arvoke.    We  had  seen  some  reindeer,  and  two 
hares  j  but  co»ld  get  no  observation  of  the  sun.    I  was  mortj  fortu- 
nate afterwards  in  shooting  two  of  the  l9jtter,  amd  «  grouse.    I  here 
reputed,  once  more^e  observations  which  i  had«so  recently  made 
for  tl]ie  second  tim#l^  the  altitude  of  the  land  at  this  place,  being 
very  desiroflS  to  know  what  the  elevation^of  this  tract  was  «bove  the  . 
level  of  the  sea.    It  was  It  question  of  m'ore  interest  Uian  may-  at    : 


K«l 


7 


w*- 


'!-m>r:T*    '"*.t»^P?'^#fc»» 


i'/^ 


'      A 

i 

,^* 

■ 

1 

'.      '* 

•        1 

tf^ 


everthe- 
of  theit 
darkness 
fog.  ^r 
:h  le^dis 
I  deter- 
tli,  since 
ritio"time 
rv&tions  ' 
leheigbi 

n  a  gottd ' 
•e  was  a^ 
derated,^- 
and  the 
out  ■whe- 
evert^je-  , 
d  to  the 

hadipo 
ized  any 
[uai^ed. :. 
rhever  it 
r  travel- 
laboured 
d  in  get- 
we  prro- 
owbuiit- 
ilh  these 
;  indeed, 
I  instinct 
3  winter, 
dnce  we 
eirfood; 
8  he  can- 
;s  which 
ifumish- 
f  guests. 
Jightwe^ 
If:  afilisr'^.'^ 
itowevfer  - 
le  valley 
ind  two 
rtJ  fort^^- 

I  here 
tly  made 
e,  being 
bovethe 
may-  at 


A 


«^; 


:> 


irsu 


a2» 


■■A 


....  -     ^  \fT0Td^^ribn9!-KiBaidiis.>  ,^' 

first  «Jxpeaif,  sii^ce  tliis  wai  the*  valley,  if  valley  I  may-  term  it,  which 
fprined  the  tnpst  brief  and  perfect  Und  c'omitiunication  between  thc^ 
6astef tt  and  western  seas,  whichjd'  other  circdmstances  and  in  a  veiy 
different  climkte,  might,  under  the  aid  of  |rt,  have  formed  that "  north- 
west passage,"  of  which,  if  I  misfiike  not,  we  now  know  as  much  as 
IS  s^n  likely  to  be  known,  and  far  more  thaif  will  ever  lie  of  any  Use. 
The  ttMUlt  was  to  ^termine,  that  it  was  thirteen  feet  above  level  oT 
the  western  s6a.  Had  this  region  been  thirty. degrees  further  to  the 
southward,  a  canal  company  might  have  effected  that  "passage" 
*     which  nature^'faas  now  thdue^t  fit  to  lefuse.      • 

'  j*i*'*  ^  c>f088«d  the  gulf  of -Shag-a-vokd  at  one  p  the  morning, 
and  left  the  boat  for  Gommanddr  Ross's  party.    George  Baxter,  one 
qtf  the  men,  was  ill ;  but  being  much  lightened  by  leaving  this  load, 
e^    we  contrived  to  proceed,  and  pitched  our  tent  on  the  sea,  about 
'  S'®"*^*^^*  ™»^e*  ft^™  ^^  "hip,  at  seven  o'clock.    It  soon  came  \o 
,   blow  hard,  with  snow,  «icl  as  we  could  not  get«our  bed-skins  dried, 
were  h«)t  very  comfortable,  thoijgh'well  sheltered  from,  jbe  storm. 
This  was  nearly  the  place  where  we  had  encamped  last  year ;  and 
■    we  cbUld  n<rw  trace  the'  di^rence  between  th6  former  and  the  pre- 
sent state  of  things ;  while  what  we  ^^\y  ^as  by  ho  rneans  flattering 
to  our  future  progress.    At  that  time  the  land  was  nearly  bare,  and 
,     now  it  was  deeply  clothe^  with  snow,  while  the  thermometer  was 
also  10°  lower.    It  h^d  then  iten  coveifed  with  pools,  and  there 
r     was  now  not  a  drop  of  water  to  be  procured;  while,  even  on  tlie 
roeks,  where  it  should  have  abounded,  all  Was  ice.    The  only  hope 
which  we  had  to  balance  against  this  siniker  aspect,  was,  that  the 
storms  might  break  up  the  sea  ice  in  th^bay,  aiid  thus  bring:  on  oi^ 
liberation  sdioner  than  now  seemed  very  likelv*  .       |l 

After  noon:it  moderated,  and  the  snow  leased,  while  it  was  suc- 
ceeded by  frost.^  It  was  therefore  resolved  to  make  an  effort  to 
reaeh  the  ship,  as  the  wind  was  behind  us;  for  .which  end  I  pro- 
ceeded in  advance,  that  I  mighi  send  my  party  assistance  from  the 
men  who  had  remained  on  board.  With  all  my  efforts,  "however, 
.  I  did  not  succeed  jn- arriving  at  our  home  until  ten.  I  had' been 
tempted  to  pursue  iWeer,  an  object  well  worth  a  chase  to  us,  and 
as  the  road  was  now  very  bad,  from  the  state  of  the  ice,  I  also  ex- 
perienced many  severe  falls,  adding  to  this  delay.  It  blew  a  gale 
when  I  arrived,  and  was  very  thick.  The  men  whom  I  had  left, 
made  their  appearance  at  two,  having  left  the  sledge  on  the  way.' 
Ajhey  were  all  ill,  or  utterly  fatigued :  I  was  the  only  one  of  the 
n  i^rty  who  was  buite  well.  Thus  ended  a  journey  which  had  lasted 
from  the  17th  of  the  month  of  May  till  its  termination. 

During  this  walk,  I  had  a  further  opportunity^of  comparing  tb«, 

uncommon  se^rity  of  the  present  season  with  the  state  of  the  pre* 

cedmg.    I  had  found  no  clear  water  along  the  shore,  while  it  bad 

J»een  ^ndant^a^t  year  atthe  same  period:  not  a  single  bird  wm 

!_.__.^  while,  in  the  former  spring,  thev  had^ 

:es  and  were  abundant ; 


breiedihg 


> 


mark. 


.•  .f  ^^ 


'A 


'-   *y>l,'-H«'^s*-'a**        --r    -\ 


*    •       <     I'.r 


JWf*4m<"-''M^-4*.^Ml^ 


■/'■'- 


aao 


SSCOND  VOTAOH  Of  iSOSOOtmr 


j» 


■Jf 


;(«.  ' 


■carcelv  say,  of  j»  winter,  in  severity  an^duration^  which  does  not 
onlyrelate  to  the  climate  in  which  we  noW.  were,  but  to  that  from 
whidi  these  animals  migrate;  thus  indicating  the  pi^valen^  of  a 
bad  and  protracted  cold  Mason  over  all  the  regic^^  of  northern 
America.  ; 

The  journal  kept  oi^.  board  during  my  absence  is  nferely  that  of 
the  weather,  and  doe*  not  require  to  be  detailed.    For  both,  for 
the  absent  and  those  ajt  home,  the  circumstances  were  nearly  the 
'    same:  and  the  several!  sick  men  were  better. 

The  summary  of  Miay  doos^notpresent  much.    Its  weathei*  had 
°  ^^°  ^  ^^^^  contrast  to  that  of  ^  same  month  in  the  last  year, 
xhte  sun  had  scarcely  |  made  any  impression  on  the  snow,  and  no 
water  had  yet  been  seen.    The  maximum  temperature  bad  been 
plus  36%  the  lowest  ijoinus  16%  and  the  li^n  plus  16«.    Com- 
mander Ross's  first  journey  had  deten|ain§3  that  there  was  no 
passage  into  the  westei-n  sea  at  Awatutyak  and  therdbra  none  to 
the  southwai-d'of  72%    This  joi^y  had  been  a  very  unfortunate . 
one  for  the  mate  Taylor,  who  was  «xpected  to  lose  part  of  his  right 
^t;  and  the-rest  were  9o  much  fatigued  that  they  were  scarcdy 
recovered  in  fourteen  days.    The  report  of  health  for  this  month 
is  therefore  an  unpleaaiant  one;  but  there  was  no  threatening  of 
•  scurvy,  and  to  this,  the  supplies  of  fish,  procured  from  tin  nativei, 
had  essentially  contributed^ 

My  own  journey  had  enabled  me  to  extend  the  geography  of 
this  part  of  the  country,  in  spitet^of  the  obstacles  pr^uced  oy  the 
wJeaUiQi^  j^di  had  also  prolonged  the  intended  ^ht  days  to 
el^vfn.'  G^n^,  it  may  be  remarked,  was  still  rare;  and  this  was  a 
more  interesting  matter  as  related  to  the  season,  than  as  concerned 
our  ami]|ement  or  our  supplies.  The  southern  animatfi  were  indeed 
migratingito  the  northward;  but  in  no  great  nuAbers;  and  they 
were  the  Uendar  of  the  spring,  as  I  have  alifady  remai:ked,  if 
indeed  we  l^ad  not  warning  enough,  in  the  surrounding  wiste  of 

t  arrived. 


yetj 


% 


■'■/'  -■■{ 


■■  i- 


ik 


.-  ^^W 


CHAPTER  XLI. 


\'-4. 


TVaruactions  in  Jmum^Setum  of  Commander  Rots  /romiMit 
*■    "     -  '  ExpefUtion.  L 

■  .     ■      '  ....  '■ 

^^June  Ut.  Thb  weather  was  cold  on  tba  H^^lmd  the  fiilliiiiwi^ 
and  on  the  latter  it  was  stormy.    2d.  The  sledge  was  brought  ui 


.-,  L 


■■/% 


'->-: 


•.iat,  , — , 


L 


■/'■'- 


TO  THB  ARCTIC  HEGlbirS. 


V 


J^ 


fek     P'*'*'®  '*''®™/*  '"'*'  ^^"^  '^f*-    ?he  lowest  point  to  wJiich 
It  was  now  hoped,  to  register  its  Tiega*iVe  scale,  fpr  some  time  to 

^It  was  a  bad  ednimenceinent  «rf  this  month,  to  find  that  it  had 
^SVH^^'^lr^ti  to,^mputate  part  of  the  foot  of  the  mate  Taylor, 
which  Whs  mortrfied..  TW  was  accordingly  performed  by  the  surl 
St  Th«*1h  'r  ^^.'P«rti««5  that  of  suffering  well,  to  the 
'   SSSS'soJ^^t^ -'-''"^  •"'^^^"f  likely  t^escape  for  a 

for^fhl''''^'""'^5^^"?^*^*°  '"*''®^  '■^^^^^^    it  is  not  intended 

tmrSw^"'^'®-!,  ^''''T^  "^y  "^^  management,  but  that  ftiture 

.travellers  m  northern  climates,  not  less  than  navigators  like  our- 

iV  v^  nSrTw  *  ^f'^  "!?"  '^"^^'^  attentiof can  effect.  It 
flnv2„^^.  '  ***  no  travellers,  under  any  circumstances,- nor 
any  navigators,  among  all  those  .who  have  winter^  in  northern 
chmatesj  have  ev6r  ericountered  the  winters  of  rcountryS 
Xrri!*  V^'^^'Tl  *?^  ^  '*°''"»'  "or  in  thW  duratSfS 

Z  our^S T  '"**  *^  *^^*^""y  ^^'"^'^  «^°''"»'  Thus  was  it 
W  «,  it  P«8».  not  one  winter  or  one  year,  far  less  one  or  a 
SLT*'*!'  °1  ™^'  °^  J*'^  ^''^  ^»^o  eiperienced  the  cold  of 
toese  chmates  have  done,  but  a  long  succession  of  years,  of  which 

IhffiltfJ^'^  '^^^  *^'*'  °r'y  **•«  ^^°'«  «  one  lonX'nter    wK 

Itn»l    K  ^"^P"*'"'  "  *^^  records  of  our  long  dIJntion  in  the  ce 

S  I!:^2^^^*"l:r**'^  ^''^^^  ^°*'^«  ^''or  wiStry  climate,  seasons 

,  of  uncomi&on  sevei^ty.  •       «»«>yuo 

h«?«J'°'*T  »P'  "%of  our  toils  out  of  doors^^I  my  jbumal 

m^foh?^'^*'^'*-^^^**:!.?"'^  '"«°'  '"^«  ourselves,. travelled  as 
'  S  nr  irr  '^'"M?*  '»»^nred  in  ^o  open  air.  without  reWric! 
S«llff  ;  °  ^'''"^?  <*jeet  and  for  every  purpose  that  our  duties 
demanded,  even  as  if  we  had  been  in  Eng/anJ/  No  service  was 
nSL'T!!^  **'"  countermanded,  from  fears  of  the  weather,  except 
SLt^  r^^  '"^"S"  circumstances  which  I  have  always 
p^ted  out  whenevVthey  occurred.  H6w  truly  this  is  the  fact, 
Zf  ?"'y  ^P"^"^  ^'■°'"?^  ^''ole  of  this  narrative,  since  it  i« 
IhJtMmpIe  statement  from  which  all  may  draw\the  conclusionito 

wHI«  /•  "  "f^*'^«  incumbent  on  tm  to  point  their  attention, 
white  It  IS  not  my  desire  to  do  more.  •  «'"""«»» 

JH^uH^A  "''"  It®  *«niperature,  or  nrttler  what  were  the  tem- 
peratures, during  these  protracted  seasons  of  almost  one  lone 
and  nearly  unparalleled  winter  of  four  years?  The  reader  of  thS 
■*"*;^fi?~i»«n>oni  recorded  on  almost  every  day.  m  has 
■een  that  the  freezing  point  was  nearly  a  summer  heat  to  us,  that 
LSJL  aS7h«Tf  "  ^^n'Porate."  1  may  almost  call  it,  of  Z 
seasoBs^and  that  if  we  were  cold,  it  was  because  the  thermomeSr 


J 


1^ 


btSK          '     1 

lA    ■ 

^ 

'   '  '^ 

v;      , 

;- 

\        ■ 

•  p 

■   - 

J 

i      «S: 

■>"  "' 

— "■ ■■> Ti': 

"*        ''■■■• 

/ 

■k- 

4 

• 

%. 

\\. 

Jt 

V 


-^ 


■."WW^^i 


aixjoxo  YOTAOi  or  PiaCOVBRT 


^ 


7  H^  ^°  "tPTow,  of  wHjd  aii4^.Miow# ,  did  our  men  onciounter  them 

in  their  «e«eral  joujrueyi^  fapQ  the  gile  and  the  drift,  ilod  fall  asleep 

'    in  ^  housa  of  ice,  'even  when  exhai^sted  by  i^tigu^  «iid  weakeiied 

loo  by  vradMf  sufScJent  food  T    All  this  has  been  seen.    It  has 

.      been  «eeq  that  we  were  often  fer  underfed,  and  t  have  shawm  what 

alrknow,  how  this  cdnduqes  to  the  Jiftjurious  e0ecta  of  oold  on  the 

;  body.  ^  Yet  und$r  all  thesit  &x jxwiirleM^  all  the«>  labboii,f ailitfa^ae 

J>nvali9o^'aiid  ail  repeated  and  eodiurtng  Uireugh  theJoHg-^Nice  of 
our  yeariB,.on&  irian,  alone  was  frofst-bitten,  one.  man  «Mffe««i  the 
loss  of  ar foot;  while  that  loss  was  t^  eonseqiumce  of  h^  owa  inat- 
r        teqtioif,  and  nothing  elsev    ft  tpust  not  then  be  naid  t&at  men  can- 
•  "^  iw»t  be  prot^tedfrom  these  accideiits,  even  under  the  worst  of  cir- 
fimatADC^    I  boast  of  no  secrets,  the  commooMt  precautions 
l_i:f"!5o«d,and  those  precautions  aw  in  every  One's  pow^n  ^  JUt  the 
WW  which  rbrought  back  to  tbeir^Jipmes  say  whpther  tlieee.4^^ 
.S4|l|ffiood,;<M*ni«/,;;v  •■-.-.v,^  ,.r:    ^.■:::.,,:.  .--■  ■    :-.,:'JA.;v'..-".^-.;  -''V'" 

u  ^  '^***  ***'"*  ^^^  foiKth  wei!e'unialtQred,gand.  we  wejre  ood  very 
busyt    6/A.  The  3anday  was'marked  by  nothing  biit  diviiie  acfrvice  i 
but  we  had  prepared,  on  the  previous  daiyj  for,  an  expecU^on  on 
Mo^ay,  and  every  thiftg  was  therefore  kopt  la  readiness. 
In  the  evening,  the  surgeoA  and  a  jiarty  went  forward  with  the 

»  tuodge,  seven  niiTes  in  advance ;  but  it  blew  a  gale^oir  the  foUowing 
day,  with  heavy  snow,  so  that  we 'could  not  Mt.  out.;  Vfo  at- 
len^led  it  next  night :  but  a^  stroos  br^eae  wiU»  snow  ciO|ifincr.in 

-  -jWir  feces,  we  did  aot  reach  the^led^till  six  in  the  ipomiog,  ^V 
a^  ttwQ  burst  om  suddenly  at  nine;  which  ao  blinded  us  that  we 
.  ipere  obliged  to  |Meh  our  tent  three  miles  onljMrwaidt*  near  the 
y/^  >l)ock  which  we  had  compared  to  Ailsa. 

'  At  eight  in  tfas  evanio^  we  resuoMi  our  mareb  to  the  aoqUihwest- 
mmd^  andpaasnwt  lasKle  the  islamKs,  retehed  a  precipice,  twenty 
nates  iirom  the  skp,  foaneriy  noticeril  for  the  gi^.which  frequent 
iU  where  we  saw  the  first  that  bad  arrived  this  season^.  A  mile  fur. 
Ifcer  tm  found  two  wmH^n^  tents,  and  were  invited  in  l^y  sonie  of  our 

'«  flM  actj^iMitaiiees ;  thwigh  they  were  taken  by  sutfvise,  and  all  in 
bed,  with  little  aucriminatioo  of  wives,  husbands^  and  children. 
Twe  flf  the  young  men  informed  us  that  th^  w«re  on  the»;  way  to 
the  aiup  with  fish ;  promisii^  further  thitt  they  would  suwly  us 
during  the  summer.  They  had  (teard^Coearaaoder-RosMiut  had 
•not  seen  hiif^,.and  bad  observed  our  pontoon  witheiwt  meiidling  with 
it    They  were  direcasd  to  the  dap,  and  we  parteo. 

.0fA   A  thick  fog  came  ^a.  biM  we  hmd  om  owb  fonner  tracks 
and  those  o(  the  na&vea  to  gmde  w.    At  eight  we  tmokmi  ShagH 

-  voke  and  pitched  oo  the  shore,  as  the  sun's  1^  was  oaoe  more 

tip  stPM»  to  bear.    I  left  the  inteoded  stock  of  ptovwioas  fbr€om- 

f«BMind«r  Eoss.  with  a  note,  and  ereei«d  a  caixa  and  a  flagstaff  with 

the  necessary  directions.    As  the  fog  agsiHi  wevented  a 

«s»mi^ing  v^  any  thing,  we  tBned  our  steps  bemewMd. 


r,    -  *        » 


-jjTi— iasaie......  -— 


TO  THE   ARCTIC   BEOIONS.  /  Ma 

*u\^!u'^h  *rabk8  of  the  natives  whfch  we  followed,  showed 
that  they  had  no  sledges,  but  were  dragging  their  things  on  skins: 
and,  at  five,  we  pitched  at  our  fbrmer  place,  where,  at  last,  we  found 
water  to  drink:  Vier  which  I  left  them,  that  I  might  send  aid  from 
the  ship,  in  consequence  of  which  I  arrived  three  hours  before  them. 
1  lound  that  the  two  natives  had  been  there,  but  had  not  broueht  the 
hsh:  they  were  to  come  the  next  day.  Of  the  reports  of  the  ship 
during  our  absence  I  need  only  remark,  that  the  ice-hole  had  been 
cut  through,  and  found  to  contain  seventpen  inches  in  tbickneM  of 
new  ice.  '  ,  "  ■,-■.'   v  ■■■;-'^-o  /■ ., 

u^l^j?**®  party  with  the  sledge  arrived,  and  long  after,  thfise 
Who  had  been  sent  ifi  meet  and  assist  them;  having  missed  the  place: 
1  he  welcome  natives  came  at  eight,  bringing  ninety-seven  pounds 
01  tosh,  consisting  chiefly  of  small  cod  and  coalfish,  with  a  litUe  Sal- 
mon, besides  a  bear-skin  and  some  clothing.  The  women  came 
aiterwards,  apd  were  admitted  on  deck,  as  Saturday  was  an  incon- 
venient day  to  receive  them  below.  More  fish  were  promised  on 
the  following  day.  / 

I2th.  At  five  in  the  morning  of  Sunday,  thke  arose  a  fdfious 
snow-storm  from  the  westward,  which  Tasted  for  sixteen  hours. 
Notwithstanding  this,  aftfer  divipe  service,  the  promised  party  came 
with  their  fish  and  dothing,  and  some  other  articles.  After  this  I 
took  them  jnto  the  cabin,  and  read  to  them  some  portions  of  scriD- 
ture  from  the  Esquimaux  bible  whichyT  had  received  at  Holstein- 
borg.  This,  which  I  scarcely  expeefed,  they  seemed  to  compre- 
hend; listening  with  great  s^ttention,  and  correcting  my  pronuncia- 
tion, while  making  me  repeat  ^uch  words  as  seemed  obscure,  till 
they  understood  the  meaning«|jH^n  read  the  creed  and  the  Lord's 
prayer  from  Egede's  book,  wB»  seemed  equally  intelligible,  as  far 
at  least  is  the  words  were  conceriied^To  confirm  my  belief  of  this.  • 
1  read  to  them  from  Egede's  voMbdlary  also,  and  was  then  satisfied 
that  they  understood  his  Words  better  than  the  more  recent  ones 
which  have  been  printed.  They  were  not  suffered  to  depart  with- 
out a  meal  of  fish;  promising  to  return.  It  was  in  vain  to  be  anxious 
to  know  what  they  thought  qjf  what  they  had  heard,  of  whether  they 
comprehended  its  purpose;  since  we  were  not  far  encragh  advanced 
in  theif  language  for  such  an,  attempt  as  this. 

•  '^^l  \^^  "^"'''^  occasion  to  regret  I  neither  speak  as  a  fanatic^ 
nor  dud  I  ever  entertain  romantic^  notions  of  the  perfecUbility  df 
savage  nations;  still  less  being,  given  to  suppose  that  any  human 
powCT  can  m^ft  a  rfeasonahlijtobd.  eficient  religion  onJmenwho 
haw^ever  exerted  their  reason  :%ho  are^  deficient  in  every  thing- on 
wKich  a  rational  faith,  as  well  as  a  sounc  practice,  can  be  founded 
and  who,  I  may  safely  say  it,  have  in  them  little  of  man  but  what  is 
tound  in  those  who  approach  most  neariy  to  the  pure  s^imal  nature 
Yet  even  thijre,  God  has  not  left  himself  without  a  witness,  stranire 
as  the  demo^trationsoyhisi  may  often  be.  More  than  this,  how- 
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ever,  i«i.whtt  I  should  have  desired  to  see,  but  that  I  had  not  the 
inean8<jof  di9coverin|;.'  Did  they  comprehend  any  thins  of  all  that 
I  attempled  to  explain?  explaining  the  siiflplest  things,  in  the  sim- 

rlest  maimer  that  I  could  devise.    I  could  not  conjecture^    Should 
have  gained  more  had  I  better  understood  their  language?    I  have 

' '  much  reason  to  doubt  That  they  have  a  moral  law  of  some  extent 
«  written  in  the  hefirt,"  I  could  not  doubt,  (and  I  have  said  so  else- 
where,) as  numerous  traits  of  their I^Ottduct  show;  but  beyond  this, 
I  could  satisfy  myself  of  nothing,''nor  did  these  efforts,  and  many 
more,' enable  me  to  conjecture  aught  worth  recording,  respecting 
their  opinions  on  the  essential  points  from  which  1  jnight  have  pre- 
sumed on  a  religion.  I  was  obliged  at  present  to  abandon  the 
Mtempt,  and  1  was  inclined  to  despair. 

13M.  At  five  in  )he  morning  Commander  Ross  returned  with 

—his  party,  ^nd  air  in  good  health;  the  nktives  took  leave,  on  their 
return  to  Neitchille  to  fish  for  us.  I  shall  not  make  any  abstract  of 
the  narrative  of  this  expedition,  but  give  it  in  the  words  df  that 
officer  hin^selH!  ^ 


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place  of  the  north  magnetic  poieUOhservationa  for  the  pur- 
pose  qf  assigning  its  place,  antf  inductions  Jrim  those. 

XT  ^!^^,^  ^T®"  *?**>*  '^oy**  Society  a  paper  on  the  subject  of  the 
North  Magnetic  Pole,  which  they  have  done  me  the  honour  to 
pnnV  I  need  not  here  repeat  the  preliminary  or  other  general  re^ 
marks^which  it  coiitains,  byt  confine  this  narrative,  as  1  have  done 
my  former  ones,  to  the  facts  and  reflections  which  occuired  during 
our  vbyage  and  our  travelling:  thus  conforming  to  the  journal  chai^ 
aot«sr  of  the  volume  in  which  I  have  borne  the  share  assigned  to  me. 
If  there  are  scientific  readers  who  desire  to  see  what  I  have  written 
on  this  subject  since  my  return,  they  wMl  find  it  in  the  Philosophi- 
cal Transactions  for  1834.  7 

It  must  be  known  to  many  more  readers  than  those,  that  the  sub- 
ject here  inx[uesUon  had  engaged  the  attention  of  our  predecessors. 
Parry  and  Franklin,  during  their  several -voyages  and  travels  in 
these  regions  for  those  purposes  of  geographical  discovery  whidh 
are  now  to  familiar  to  every  one.  If  all  general  praise  of  these 
conspicuous  men  is  now  superfluous,  I  must  here  however  remark, 
that  the  numerous  and  accurate  observations  on  the  subject  of  mag- 
\  netism,  made  by  them  and  the  officers  under  their  command,  have 
proved  of  great  value  towards  the'advancement  of  magnetic  science 
in  general,  if  more  particularly  to  the  assignment  of  the  laws  by 
whichtbat  of  the  globe,  as  it  regards  the  needle,  is  regulated. 

,The  gMgraphJcal  restrictions,  however,  td  which  these  discove- 
ries ha*  b^n  subjected,  were  such  as  to  prevent  them  from  extend- 
^1?  tnei""^  observations  over  so  large  a  afm^  as  was  to  be  desired. 
•^^  J  j»t  difierent  times  made  nearer  approximations  tp  the 
expeStwl  place  of  the  North  magnetic  pole  %n  had  ever  bef&re 
been  effecied,  but  the  spot  where  it  ought  to- exist  had  been  a  ae^m 
place  to  them:  more  than  once  tantalizing  with  hopes  which,  it  was 
destined,  were  not  th<en  to  be  fulfilled.    Observations  were  still 


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339 


,  SECOND  VOYAOI!   OF  DISCOVERT- 


■       s^uriJv  ,;h       '^.^P'^«t'"'?^  ^"^  »*  'P««*  «««'S"«d  With  stiir  more 
security  and  precision  than  ft%d  been  from  those  already  made 

Jeaoh!./-7f' f'  ?'  *;^r'^"  '"'S''*  even- assure  himself  Sathrhad 
reached  ,t,  had  placed  his  needle  where  no  deviation  from  the  per- 

K^Jw^n  himlr/h^"''''^'  '"1.  'I'''  «"  '''  ^'^  *■»«*  ^hat  h  !Xy 
oeween  him  and  the  centre  of  the  earth  ^ 

Hrl-       ^°P?  T'^  "*  length,  held  out  to  us;  we  had  loiie  been 
drawing  near  to  th.s  point  of  so  many  desires  and  so  many  anfietfes 

XeWat  oTs'fnS^o"'  "'''"''''''  ""'=!  "^°^'  '*«  place  Jrommry 
31  !  J      fu  "1     ""^  nearer  approaches  than  had  ever  yet  been 

westoJS  trJlth'*"'"r,r*j'''^'*  knowledge  of  the  lanS  o^nwhS 
we  stood,  together  with  the  power  of  travelline  held  out  to  u«.   t  »* 

Iio.rr^  ?"'"  '^'}  thfeVoblem  was  resefved  for  us  SV* 

land 'in'T^  T'  ""'  ^•^?"'''''''  '"'^  ?'»"*  ^^e  standard 'of  En^! 

•  ^ouZX'^ltS!'''''  '""^  on>e  iceyston.  of  all  the£ 

thP^nll!!l**'r  i«?«''.'n'"«'ion''of  the  navigators  who  had  preceded  us 
dee.^  o?  IS-   ""P°?"r'  'P^*  ''^^  ''«^"  calculated/and  wiUi  a 

hafrSeenS  l^'''i.l''7'''''%P''°^"'^'^'''-  ^'^'"^^  *an  could 
iia*e  oeen  expected.     At  the  time  of  our  deoarturft  fmm  T7ln»i««j 

of  w"  ^^oSdr  'rf  "r '"  ^^°^  nortlXtS/lJiSt? 
iL7^i  JonK'tude.  Thus  it  appeared,  that  in  the  course  of  my  land 
journey  to  the  westward  in  the  pfecedine  year  ris^ow  »«!i^i,! 

>eoompli.hing  thi.  long  wished-for  object  "^      " 

Wev'Xt'  '"  »'»'«"'"«"  P'"''  f"  I",-,  m";ne,ic  pole  which 
1  believed  to  be  much  more  accurate  than  the  one  Which  hid  i,^ 

« i™'e^aTtnd';^''^°K'''''°''''"'"^"p^^^^^^ 

These  observations  were  continued  till  within  a  few  hn.,r«  „f 
UnfoNun.tel,-^ho«-ever,  the  weather  became  .o  very  unfavou.»ble 


sro  THE  abct'ic  BEOIONS. 


933 


s 


.  our  jo„r„e,  ^rj^^lhel"^^,'''^' :;^^""„SS  ""\?°'5  "^ 

pemst, .,  it  „a,  imp„«,ibte  ^  «it  f^  tater  wL,S  S'*"^  *" 

■  time  was  alwavs  so  munh  <.ftn*r«J„j  Ju  "^'^  weather  when  our 

At  three  i„  a>7J^^J2^:tZ'^u:^?  "^  ""  "^P''"* 
•he  opposite  share  of  the  inP..  :-?      ?•  ?'  T'?'"™.  ««  crossed  to 

and  ttLued  al™f  the  i  tiCarHT  ,f  ""'  ^"'^J  ""^  "°*«. 
morning  of  tfce  twLv-ei.h.t  ^         ""  "est^inlil  eight  in  the 

con«q„i,ce  of  lle^phtMAia  IZr  7"°  fr'^"'^  '"  "1'' '» 

■evereVaffeetedfour  Jf  WpaV  •°We"S    -"  ".T'  """'^ 

tions  folded  on  whaftteyhtirdic^S"?''  "f  ^^''^«'^- 

lh^"wr.L'^;tert'„™l'rdLf '  "^".S'"  "I™  ■-'  ""i  i-pir. 
It  was  not  till  the  evening  of  this  Hav  *S>!!      *u  .     J 

?oph5'ir=E:drs:;:.i^reSr^^^^^^^^^ 

nJn.  fnT"'"^  P™''^'*  ^.^'■^  *=°*^  ^"^en  we  renewed  our  iom^^t 

^  •  ul^  evening,  and  the  thermometer  fell  to  ^vo^Lt 

midnight  wh.Ie  a  keen  north-west  wind  blew    n.S?feS     wl 

neverthelea,  persisted^  coasting  the  land;  examin^^ll  S  inS 


\ 


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< 


1 


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-ft 


■•^:- 


SECOND  VOTAGK  OC  PISCOVERT 


and  harflburs  whi<i^' .occurred,  and^  thus  materially  expending  our 
time  »nd  increasing^our  labour.  ^ 
^  Hiiving  at  length  completed  a  direct  distance  of  about  twelve 
milef,  we  halted,  at  eight  in'  the  morning  of  the  thirtieth  of  May, 
in  latitude  69"  46'  25",  and  longitude  95«*  49'  11"  west.  At  half- 
after  nine  in  the  evening  we  again  set  out;  but  a  thick  haze,  accom-^ 
panied  by  occasional  shower^  of  snow,  compelled  me  to  lead  the 
party  along  all  the  windings  and  indentations  of  the  coast,  that  I 
might  perform  the  remainder  of  that  survey  which,  under  such 
weather,  I  could  execute  in  no  other  manner. 

Soon  affer  midnight,  however,  it  cleared;  and,  ascending  a  high 
point  of  land,  I  obtained  a  fine  yiew  of  the  inlet,  which  was  now 
covered,  as  far  as  the  «ye  could  discern,  With  an  unbroken  surface 
of  Ipvel,  ice,  repla^ng  the  hummocky  and  irregular  masses  that  had 
*<:been  Jacked  into  it  when  I  passed  along  the  opposite  shore  in  the 
June  of  the  preceding  year.  This  was  a  proof  that,  in  the  latter 
I»rt,  at  least,  of  that  summer,  this  inlet  had  been  free  from  ice,  and 
might  then  have  been  easily  navigated  had  we  been  on  the  spot  at 
that  time.  How  much  we  all  regretted  this,  I  need  scarcely  say. 
Instead  of  a  laborious  walk,  with  the  hazard,  at  the  same  time,  of 
want  or  starvation,  we  should  have  been  comparatively  at  our  ease 
in  all  respects;  while  I  might  then  not  only  have  .pursued  my 
investigations  in  security  and  comfort,  so  .as  to  have  assigned  the 
absolute  and  exact  place  of  the'  magneticcpple,  but  should  probably 
have  been  enabled  to  trace  the  Americfin  shore  much  farther 
towards  Cape  Turnagain  than  it  was  my  fortune  to  do.  We 
encamped  at  eight  in  the  morning  of  the  thirty-first,  having  com- 
4)leted  thirteen  miles.  -  __ 

We  were  now  within  fourte 
the  magnetic  pole;  and  my  anj 
do  or  endure  any  thing  whicn 
wished-for  spot.    I  resolved^  in 


Jes  of  the  calculated  position  of 
therefore,  did  not  permit  me  to 
it  delay  my  arrival  at  the  long 
ionsequence,  to  leave  behind  the 


greater  part  of  our  baggage  ahd  provisions,  and  to  take  onwards  no- 
thing more  than  was  strictly  necessary,  lest  bad  weather  or  other 
accidents  should  be  added  to  delay,  or  lest  unforseen  circumstances, 
'still  more  untowaVtt,  should  deprive  me  entirely  of  the  high  gratifi- 
cation which  I  could  not  but  look  to  in  accomplishing  this  most 
desired  object 

June  1st.  We  commenced,  therefore,  a  rapid  march;  compara- 
tively disencumbered  as  we  now  were;  and,  persevering  with  all 
our  might,  we  reached  the  calculated  place  at  eight  in  the  morn- 
ing of  the  first  of  June.  I  believe  I  must  leave  it  to  others  to  ima- 
gine the  elation  of  mind  with  which  we  found  ourselves  now  at 
length  arrived  at  this  great  object  of  our  ambition:  it  almost  seemed 
as  if  we  had  accomplished  every  thing  that' we  had  come  so  far  to 
see  and  ,to  do;  as  if  our  voyage  and  all  its  labours  wgre  at  an  end, 
and  that  nothing  now  remained  for  us  but  to  feturn  home  and  be 


TO  THE  ^aCTIC  REQIOKS. 


and 


339 
which. 


happy  for  the  rest  of  our  daya.     They  were  aft^-ihoughts 
told  us  that  we  had  much  yet  to  endure  and  much  to  perforjm,  and, 
they  were  thoughts  which  did  not  then  intrude;  could  thejy  havef 
done  so,  we  should  have  cast  them  aside,  under  our  present  jexcii 
ment:  we  were  happy,  and  desired  to  renqiain  so  as  long  as  wi 
could. 

T^he  land  at  this  place  is  very  low  near  the  poast,  but  it  rises  in' 
ridges  of  fifty  or  sixty  feet  high  about  a  mile  inland.  We  could 
have  wished  that  a  place  jm>  important  had  possessed  more  of  mark 
or  note.  It  was  scarcely  censurable  to  regret  that  there  was  not  i 
mountain  to  indicate  a  spot  to  which  so  much  of  interest  must  ever 
be  attached;  and  I  could  Uvea  have  pardoned  any  one  among  us  who 
had  been  so  romantic  or  absurd'  isis  to  expect  that  the  magnetic  pole 
was  an  object  as  conspicuous  and  'mysterious  as  the  fabled  njiountain 
of  Sinbad,  that  it  even  was  a  mountain  of  iron,  or  a  magne^  as  large 
as  Mont  Blanc.  But  Nature  had  hei^^irected  no  moniimeiat  tp  de- 
note the  spot  which  she  had  chosen  astKe^  centre  of  one  of  jier  igreat 
and  dark  powers;  and  where  we  could  do  little  ourselves  to^l^rds 
this  end,  it  was  our  bu9iness  to  submit,  and  to  be  content  in  doting 
by  mathematical  numbers  and  signs,  as  with  things  of  far  more  im- 
portance in  the  terrestrial  system,  what  we  could  but  ill  distihguish 
m  any  other  manner. 

We  were,howeVer,  fortunate  in  here  finding  some  huts  of  Esqui- 
maux, that  had  not  long  been  abandoned.  ^Unconscious  6f  the  value 
which  not  only  we,  but  all  the  civilizea  world,  attached  jto  this 
place,  it  would  have  been  a  vain  attempt- on  our  part  to  aci^ounito 
themjlfor  our  delight,  had  they  be6n  present  It  was  better  for  us 
that  they  wire  not;  since  we  thus  took  possession  of  their  works, 
and  were  thence  enabled  to  establish  our  observations  With  thel 
greater  ease;  encamping  at  six  in  the  evening  on  a.poini  of  land! 
about  half  a  mile  to  the  westward  of  those  abandoned  snow  houses.! 

The  nece|sary  observations  were  immediately  commenced,  and 
they  were  continued  throughout  this  and  the  g^ter  part  of  the  folj- 
lowitig  day.  Of  these,  the  details  for  thcpurposes  of  science  have 
been  sines  communicated  to  the  Royal  Society;  as  a  paper  contain- 
ing all  that  philosophers  require  on  the  subject  has  now  also  been 
printed  in  their  Transactions.  I.  need  not  therefore  I'epeat  them 
here,  ef  en  had  it  not  been  the  plan  of  the  whole*  of  this  volume  to 
refer  every  scientific  matter  which  had  occulted  to  Captain  Ross 
and  myself,  to  a  separate  work,  under  the  name  of  an  appendix. 
.  But  it  will  gratify  (redieral  curiosity  to  state  the  most  conspie 
results  in  a  simple  and  pbpular  manner.  The  place  of  the  ob 
tory  was  as  near  to  the  inagnetic  pole  as  the  limited  means  wl 
possessed  enabled  me  to  determine.  The  amount  of  the  dip, 
dicated  by  my  dippiikg-needle,  wjs  89°  59',  b^ing  ithus  within 
minute  of  the  vertical;  While  th^  proximity  a 
not  its  actual  existence  where  We  stood,  was  |ui 


*./ 1 


it- 


V  t 


«* 


ic^MS 
as^^^- 


one 


i  of  this  pole,  if  '    . 

■  ^n 

ir  confirmed  by 

'  ■% 

»                                  • 

-^\ 

•■ 

.-:.1 

k 

^  •%    ■ 

4 


~ ^! — T 


M^ 


/ :  ■ 


336 


SECOND  VOTAOE   OP   OISCOVSRY 


-  < 


ti- 
ll I 


the  action,  or  rather  by  the  total  inaction  of  the  several  horizontal 
needles  theli  in  my  possession.  These  were  suspended  in  the  most 
delicate  manner  possible,  but  there  was  not  one  which  showed  the 
slightest  effort  to  move  from  the  position  in  which  it  was  placed:  a 
fact,  which  even  the  most  moderately  infornied  of  readers  must  now 
know  to  Ije  one  which  proves  that  the  centre  of  attraction  lues  at^ 
very  small  horizontal  distance,  if  at  any. 

As  soon  as  I  had  satisfied  my  own  mind  on  this  subject,  I  made 
known  to  the  party  this  gratifying  result  of  all  our  joint  labours; 
and  it-  was  then,  that  amidst  mutual  congratulations,  we  fixed  th^ 
British  flag  on  the  spot,  and  took  possession  of  the  North  Magnetic 
Pole  and  its  adjoining  territory,  in  the  name  of  Great  Britain  and 
King  William  the  "Fourth.  We  had  abundance  of  materials  for 
building,  in  the  fragments  of  limestone  that  covered  the  beach;  and 
we  therefore  erected  a  cairn  of  some  magnitude,  under  which  we 
buried  a  canister,  containing  a  record  of  the  interesting  ftct:  only 
regretting  that  we  had  not  the  means  of  consti^cting  a  pyramid  of 
more  importance,  and  of  strength  sufficient  to  withstand  the  assaults 
of  time  and  of  the  Esq^uimaux.  Had  it  been  a  pyramid  as  large  m 
that  of  Cheops,  I  ajn  not  quite  sure  that  it  would  have  done  more 
than  satisfy  our  ambition,  under  the  feelings  of  that  exciting  day. 
The  latitude  of  this  spot  is  70"  5'  17',  and  its  longitude  96**  46'  45", 
west 

This  subject  is  much  too  interesting,  even  to  general  l-eadlrs,  to 
permit  the  omission  of  a  few  other  remarks  relating  to  the  scientific 
part  of  this  question,  desirous  as  I  have  been  of  passing  over  or  cur- 
tailing these.  During  our  absence,  Professoi^Barlow  had  laid  down 
all  the  curves  of  equal  variation  to  within  a  few  degrees  of  thepoint^! 
of  their  concurrence;  leaving  that  point,  of  coijrs^  to  be  determin- 
ed by  observation,  should  such  observation  ever  fall  within  the . 
power  of  navigators.  It  was  most  gratifying  to  find,  on  oor  jcturn, 
that  the  place  which  I  had  thus  examined  was  precisely  that  one 
where  these  curves  should  have  coincided  in  a  centre,  had  they  been 
protracted  on  his  magnetic  chart;  and  if  Tdo  not  Jiere  state  these 
particulars  in  a  more  full  and  scientific  maniier,  it  is  because  of  the 
limits  which  I  have  drawn  for  myself,  and  because  I  can  refer  to  his 
paper,  which  was  read  to  the  Royal  Society  six  months  before  our 
arrival  in  England. 

One  further  remark  I  must  yet  be  peri^itted  to  make:  since  in 
relating  what  has  been  done,  it  would  leave  an  important  question 
imperfect  did  I  not  also  note  what  ren}ains  to  be  effected. 

It  ha^been  seen,  that  as  far  as  our  instruments  can  be  trusted,  we 
had  placed  ourselves  within  one  minute  of  the  magnetic  pole,  but 
had  not  fixed  on  the  precise,  spot;  pI«e8u^ing  that  this  precise  point 
could  be  determined  by  such  instrumehts  as  it  is  now  within  the 
power  of  mechanics  to  construct  The  scientific  reader  has  been 
long  aware  of  this:  if  popular  conversation  gives  to  this  voyage  the 


ih 
bl 


•>' 


i.*  \ 


'■*^'- 


t:*VwK*.',  ^l 


m«j*i»*»« 


3f 


TO  THE   ARCTIC    REGIONS. 


337 


i-f-", 


etk^ittit  havi&g  placed  its  flag  on  the  Very  point,  on  the  summit  of 
that  mysterious  pole  which  it  perhaps  views  as  a  visible  and  tangi- 
ble reality,  it  can  now  correct  itself  as  it  may  please;  but  in  such 
a  case,  while  a  little  laxity  is  of  no  moment,  the  very  nonsense  of 
the  belief  gives  an  interest  to  the  subject  which  the  sober  trgth  could 
not  have  done. 

To  determine  that  point,  with  g^ter,  or  with  absolute  precision 
(if  indeed  such  precision  be  attainable),  it  would  be /necessary  to 
have  the  co-operation  of  different  observers,  at  different  jiistances, 
ahd  in  different  directions,  from  the  calci)ktedj)lace;  while,  to  obtain 
.  all  the  inter^ng  results  which  these  must  be  expeond  to  furnish, 
such  labours  should  also  be  carried  aii-<jp9r  a^^t(»ns|tterable  time. 
What  these  several  expectations  ar^I^i^  not  here^iiij[y,  since  the 
subject  ii,  in  this  viewj  somewhat  too  abstrute^  for  po|l(jlar  readers; 
though  I  may  barely  alludb  to  the  diurifal  ah^  annual  motions  df  the 
needle,  and  to  the  variations  in  thW  placelof  the  pole  itself,  with  the 
consequent  deductions  that  mighy  be  made  as  to  the  future  in  this 
respect:  all  of  them  being  of.  the  highest  importance  in  the  theory 
of  magnetiim.  /  i 

Hiring  thus  therefore  stated,  Ijtowever  Jt>riefly,  what  yet  remains 
fyr  future  observation,  having  pointed  ckt  what,  1  may  fearlessly 
say,  is  still  wanting,  and  which,  as  such^  cla^ims  the  attention  of 
those  who  have  the  the  power  df  promo^%  a  work  of  this  nature,  I 
can  only  express  my  wishes,  ifl  dare  not  indulge  in  hopes,  that  the 
same  nation  which>has  already  carried  its  discoveries  so  far,  that  our 
ow^ Britain  which  has  alreadfy  established  its  supremacy  in  scien- 
tific an(lt|eographical  researches,  will  not  now  abandon  them,  and 
leave  to  others  to  reap  the  crop  of  which  it  has  in  this  case  sown  the 
seeds.  That  the  place  for  the  needful  observations  is  now  far  more 
accessible  than  it  was  once  supposed,  has  been  proved  by  our  own 
voyage  and  its  results;  so  that  the  main  difficulty  is  levelled,  and  the 
readiest  excuse  that  could  have  been  offered  is  no  longer  of  any  weight 
The  chief  object  of  our  present  expedition  having  thus  been 
■  accomplished  in  a  manner  even  more  satisfactory  than,  we  could 
have  expected,  and  in  a  shorter  time  also  than  we  had  much  right  to 
anticipate,  I  became  desirous  to  extend  our  knowledge  of  the 
country  as  much  further  to  the  northward  as  the  state  of  our  time, 
and  of  our  finances,  if  I  may  give  this  name  to  our  provisions,  would 
permit  Unluckily,  the  latter  woul(|  not  allow  me  to  devote  more 
than  one  day  to  this  object  I  could  only  wish  that  we  had  been 
better  stored  with  the  means  of  travelling:  but,  as  on  all  former 
occasions  of  a  similar  nature,  it  was  idle  to  regret  what  no  contri- 
vance on  our  part  could  have  remedied.  Oh  that  men  could  live 
without  food!  was  a  wish  that  had  never  failed  to  obtrude  itself  on 
every  occasion  of  this  nature.  '^ 

1  therefore  left  the  party  in  their  little  snow  camp,  under  the  care 
of  Blanky,  and  procc^ed  with  Abernethy,  at  eleven  in  this  our 
day-like  night,  along  that  shore  which  here  stretches  to  the  north- 
ward.   After  some  very  quiiJk  walking,  we  arrived,  by  three  in  the 
43 


:-'l 


! 


$\ 


-~-G- 


/ 


*#i^' 


338 


/ 


8EC0NP  VOTAOE  0I>  DISCpVEBF 


morning  of  June  2d,  at  a  point  of  m6re  than  ordinary  elevation. 
We  dared  not  venture  further,  for  the  reasons  just  assiirned-  but 
hence  we  saw  the  line  of  the  coast  stretching  out  due  north  to  the 
distance  of  ten  or  twelve  miles;  while  I  then  also  concluded  that  it 
preserved,  m  all  probability,  the  same  direction  as  far  as  Cape 
Walker  in  Ut  74«  15'.  Here  we  erected  a  cairn  of  stones,  to  mark 
the  utmost  limits  of  our  investigations  in  this  quarter,  and  returning 
homewards,  rejoined  our  companions  at  eight  in  the  morning. 

In  our  absence,  a  hole  had  been  cut  through  the  ice  for  the  pur- 
pose of  examining  its  thickness,  which  was  found  to  be  six  feet  and 
eight  inches.  The  time  of  high  water  had  been  observed  to  be  a 
quarter  of  an  hour  after  noon,  and  the  rise  and  fall  of  the  tide  some- 
what less  than  three  feet 

We  had  not\  been  an  hour  in  our  hut  before  the  wind  shifted  to  the 
southward,  brihging  on  thick  weather,  with  snow;  on  which  the  ther- 
mometer rose  tbthe  freezing  point  The  cold,  therefore,  no  longer  an- 
noyed us;  but  the  consequence  was  as  vexatious,  pr  even  more  tor- 
menting, since  the  snow  of  our  huts  melted  under  this  temperature 
and  that  of  our  bodies,  so  as  to  wet  us  in  a  very  disagreeable  manner, 
it  soon  also  blew  a  hard  gale;  but  as  that  became  more  moderate 
about  eleven  o'clock,  we  commenced  our  return  to  the  ship.       ' 

For  this  haste  in  setting  out,  we  had  the  best  of  reasons;  beine 
without  any  thing  to  eat,  as  we  had  departed  supperless,  until  we 
could  reach  the  place  where  we  had  left  our  baggage  and  provisions: 
hoping  all  the  while,  and  not  without  ample  cause,  that  no  bear,  or 
no  equally  hungry  and  more  gormandizing  native,  had  discovered 
that  store  on  which  we  depended  for  many  suppers  and  many 
breakfasts.  We  reached  it,  and  found  all  intact,  on  the  morninlt  of 
the  third,  at  seven  o'clock. 

The  gale  had  now  renewed  itself;  and  it  at  length  blew  a  storm, 
with  so  much  drifting  snbw  tiiat  it  was  impossible  to  tiiink  of  pro- 
ceeding for  the  present  About  one  in  tiie  morning  of  the  fourth,  it- 
however  moderated  so  far  as  to  permi|||^  to  move;  and  af  We  had 
examined  all  the  shore  on  this  routf,  in  our  progress  forward,  we 
now  met  with  no  cause  to  interfere  with  such  rapidity  as  we  could 
exert  Thus  we  reached  the  place  of  our  former  encampment  at  ten 
in  the^oming  of  the  fifth.  \ 

^.  T'l?'®  '^*»  "ow  *ess  than  ever  to  delay  us,  as  we  had  se6n  all  Uiat 
this  line  of  coast  could  j^ffer,  and  had  done  every  thing  that  was  to 
be  effected.  Our  walk 'was,  therefore,  as  much  without  note  as 
without  interruption,  during  two  days;  nor  was  I  sorry  that  I  had 
not  to  record  occurrences  and  remarks  which  had  long  ceased  to 
interest  itoySelf,  as  they  must  often  have  appeared 'tiresome  to  the 
readers,  ^ually  of  my  journal,  and  of  that  of  Captain  Ross,  indis- 
pensable A  their  relatiop  has  been. 

But  I  must  nevertheless  note,  Uiat  od  the  sixth,  in  the  mornlnir, 
we  encamjied  on  the  spot  where  we  had  formerly  been  detained  by 
the  blindness  of  some  of  our  party,  already  noticed';  arflthat  I  here 
repeated  the  magnetic  observations  which  I  had  made  in  the  same 


«.> 


.««c'4i*ie,ti«!» 


'"^n^T^^*^"; 


TO  THE  ARCTIC  BBOIOMS,  339^ 

place  during  our  progress  forward,  confirminjEfiylhem  that  accuracy 
of  which  it  was  so  important  to  be  assured.  Here  also  I  had  an  oppor-. 
tunity  of  examining  my  chronometer;  and  was  gratified  to  find  that  it 
had  preserved  a  steady  rate,  since  it  was  the  watch  by  which  I  had 
determined  the  longitudes  on  the  coast  which  we  had  now  quitted. 
^  At  nine  in  the  evening  we  crossed  over  to  the  south-east  point  of 
the  inlet;  but  the  ice  being  very  rugged,  and  som^  of  the  party 
lame,  we  did  not  reach  it  tillseven  in  the  morning  Of  the  seventh. 
At  two  on  this  morning  the  thermometer  was  at  only  four  degriees 
above  zero:  that  being  a  severity  of  temperature  which  we  had 
never  before  experienced  at  the  same  period  of  the  year. 

On  the  evening  of  this  da^,  at  seven,  we  set  forward  once  more 
towards  the  now  well-known  NeitchiUee,  having  chosen  this  road 
for  returning  to  the  ship.  During  this  route,  and  early  on  the  fol- 
lowing morning,  we  arrived  at  a  place  where  we  found  a  large  party 
of  the  natives  assembled;  the  situation  in  question  being  about  three 
miles  westward  of  Cape  Isabella.  They  were  busily  occupied  in  fish- 
ing; and  their  prey  consisted  of  the  two  species  of  cod,  described  in 
the  Appendix  of  Natural  History,  by  the  names  Gadus  Mochica,  and 
Callarias.  These  they  took  through  some  holes  which  they  had 
made  in  the  ice  for  that  puniose;  and  we  discovered  from  them,  that 
this  fishery  was  a  very  productive  one.  Our  application  for  a  sup- 
ply was  readily  granted,  and  it  proved  a  welcome  one  to  all  of  us. 
limited,  both  in  quantity  and  quali|y,a8  we  Ud  been  for  some  days. 

WA.  *rom  this,  after  resUng  two  hours,  we  proceeded  onwards 
to  Cape  Isabella,  and  encamped  at  eight  in  the  morning.  But  a 
dense  fog  now  came  on,  with  the  efiect  of  rendering  our  route  very 
uncertain,  as  it  alsamade  the  travelling  diflBcult  This  we  endured  as 
we  could,  entertaining  better  hopes  fpr  the  following  morning;  when, 
at  six,  we  a»in  set  out,  beiiig  as  soon  as  was  practicable,  and  encamp- 
ed  near  Padhak;  having  found  it  utterly  impossible  to  travel  any  fur- 
ther at  this  time,  in  conseauence  of  the  ife^eased  density  of  the  foe. 

But  towards  noon  it  cleared  away;Wihis  horrible  mist,  b^d 
enough  in  a  known  country,  but  incredily  worse  amid  such  ob- 
structions as  the  surface  here  forever  presents,  and  where  there 
IS  no  guide  Ma  compass,  was  succeeded  by  bright  and  brilliant 
weather.  The  sun  shone  forth,  in  consequence,  with  such  power, 
that  we  obtained  abundance  of  water  from  the  streams  wh/ch  ran 
from  the  rocks  and  lodged  in  the  pools  formed  among  them:  a  far 
more  acceptable  supply  than  it  is  easy  for  readers  to  conceive,  as  it 
may,  perhaps,  surprise  them  to  be  told  that  it  was  the  first  natoral 
water  that  we  had  obtained  during  this  year,  though  it  now  wanted 
but  a  few  days  of  midsummer,    fs  *eii  aught  tKat  can  conJey  a 

l^S"  V?fr"r  °/i^*  *^**  '"'^  °*'""»  °f  V  "'O't  atrocious  cli- 
mate?   If  there  be,  I  know  not  well  what  it  isl 

If  I  here  also  obteined  some  magnetic  observations,  as  I  hud 
before  done  at  Cape  IsabeHa  during'^this  returnilig  j^uVey,  thjj 
are  matter  for  the  Appendix,  not  for  this  place.  There  at  lei't  the? 
can  be  consulted  by  the  scientific  reader,  among  much  more,  wheS 


-A    V- 


\.' 


340 


SECOND  VOTilOK  Or  DISCOVEBY 


jn  meteorology  or  in  the  other  branches  of  natural  hiatory,  which 
It  haa  been  judged  most  convenient  to  place  in  such  a  supplement- 
but  as  far  as  the  present  observations  are  concerned,  the  paper  in  the 
Iransactions  of  the  Royal  Society,  to  which  I  have  already  alluded, 
wilJ  give  complete  information  to  all  those  who  may  be  interested 
in  this  subject    I  have,  however,  attached  to  the  end  of  this  narra- 
tive, the  means  of  the  observations  in  question,  that  they  who  are 
inclined  may  see  at  least  the  general  results.     It  is  for  this  simple 
journal  to  say,  that  we  proceeded  along  the  valley  of  Padliak  at  ten 
6  dock,  and  reached  the  great  middle  lake,  so  often  described,  aboat 
midnight    Then  coasting  along  its  southern  shore  till  nine  in  the 
morning  of  the  tenth,  we  halted  on  the  northern  point  of  a  small 
inlet,  putUng  up  some  groyse,  and  seeing  a  nqmber  of  deer  under 
the  pursuit  of  a  wol£ 

At  ten  in  the  evening,  according  to  our  usual  plan,  which  advan- 
togeously  torned  day  into  night,  we  directed  our  course  to  the 
north-east  corner  of  this  lake,  in  order  to  ascertain  whether  there 
was  any  river  which  communicated  between  it  and  its  neighbour, 
so  a&:^  discharge  this  collection  of  waters  into  the  sea.  Thus  it 
proved,  and  we  thence  ascertained  that  to  be  a  fact  which  had  for 
merly  been  only  a  matter  of  conjecture.  / 

11/A.  At  three  in  the  morning  of  the  eleventh,  we  arrived,  in 
^  this  our  homeward  progress,  at  another  place,  now  familiar  from  ito 
having  been  a  spot  of  rest  during  mor«  than  one  of  our  former 
journeys;  but  It  presented  at  this  time  a  very  different  appearance 
from  what  It  had  done  on  the  corresponding  day  in  the  proceding 
year.    At  the  same  place,  during  that  journey,  we  had  been  oMieed 
to  wade  knee-deep  m  water  for  nearly  two  miles,  in  crossing  (^  the 
head  of  the  inlet  of  Shag-a-voke.    At  present  all  was  solict  i(l,  there 
was  not  a  drop  of  wjjter  any  where  to  be  seen,  nor  was  there  the 
Slightest  mark  to  indicate  the  commencement  of  a  thaw.    Can  it  be 
believed  that  there  were  but  ten  days  to  midsummer,  that  all  was  still 
hard  winter,  and  that  winter  in  the  m^iddle,  I  may  almost  say,  of  sum- 
mer: a  season  such  as  the  January  of  our  own  native  land  seldom  sees. 
It  was  no  small  satisfaction  for  hard-worked  men  and  hungry  sto- 
machs, to  find  on  theopposite  shore  of  this  inlet,  some  provisions  which 
had  been  deposited  for  us  by  Captain  Ross;  and,  taking  possession  of 
them,  we  crossed  the  two  next  lakes  and  encamped,  at  six  in  the  even- 
ing, near  the  head  of  the  bay  into  which  tiieir  water  finds  ita  exit 

I2t/L  Here  w^  were  detained  by  a  heavy  storm  from  tiie  south- 
WMt  until  noon  on  the  twelfth  of  June,  when  it  began  to  moderate, 
.and  tempted  us  to  proceed  on  our  now  last  day  of  labour;  the  ship 
being  at  length  wiUiin  our  reach.  But  our  attempt  proved  vain. 
The  «le  was  soon  renewed  with  increased  violence,  and  the  snow 
drifted  so  densely  as  to  entirely  Wind  us  to  our  way,  so  that  we  were 
compelled,^  in  spite  of  ail  our  efforfs  and  wishfes,  to  hall  and  encamp 
at  nine  on  tiie  following  morning.  It  was  an  unusual  disappoint- 
ment   11  we  had  on  many  former  occasions  been  as  wearied,  as 


S, 


II 

Fel 
Ma 


Am 
Ma; 


Jal] 
Au| 

Oct 


Nov 

Dee. 

18 

Jan. 
F«b 

Mai 

Apr 


■K^/^-r-^i- 


TOTHB  ABCTIC  RBQIOIIB. 


•341 


hungry,  and  as  anxious  to  reach  our  companions  and  our  home,  we/ 
had  now  more  interesting  news  to  relate  than  had  ever  occurred  to/ 
us  belore;  but  we  were  to  exert  our  patience,  at  least  this  once  more/ 

and  exerted  It  was.  , »  \ 

But  this  trial  of  our  tempers  was  not  destined  to  be  very  du- 
rable. The  gale  at  length  moderated  so  far,  that  we  couW  Mwn- 
trive  to  see  and  find  our  way;  and  having  but  ten  miles  remainihK, 
we  bestirred  ourselves  in  proporUorf,  even  till  midnight;  when,  after 
as  much  hard  labour  as  we  could  well  mapage,  and  might  not  have 
endured  if  not  under  such  a  stimulus,  we  ntared  our  home;  still 
labouring  with  all  our  power  till  we  found  ourselves  at  length,  and 
-  once  more,  on  board  the  Victory,  at  five  in  the  morning  of  Ae  thir- 
teenth of  June.  We  had  been  absent  twenty-eight  days.  If  we 
were  fatigued  and  attenuated,  who  could  be  surprised?  but  exctotioE 
petty  grievances,  we  were  all  in  good  health. 

Observations  on  the  Dip  of  the  Magnetic  Needte. 


Data. 


May  aa. 

Jaii«   L 


Time 
of  the 
day. 


Polei  of 

Uie  Needle 

direct. 


88  4»-a 

8»  99-7S 

88  S»80 

8»  13-8 

80  e-15 

88  S31« 

88  4T-7 

88  sra 

8»  ]-«7 

88  4»«S 

88  43-36 

88  SMI 

88  4»0« 

»  48-87 

80  ss-n 

M  S-7S 

■0  0-71 

M  1-79 

90  1S-8S 

•0  4-<a 

80  -^M-oe 

60  «i-38 

8B  30-18 

80  31-03 

80  34-8 

80  14'J7 

80  «M0 

80  90-3S 

80  4-53 

88  7-40 

80  3413 

88  S6«7 

80  17-08 

80  91-5 

80  11 

88  16-07 

SO  10-07 


Pole*  of 
Um  Needle 
revened. 


80  90-33 
4004 
6-3 

398 
fSl 

7 


89   31.53 


80 
88 
88 
88 
88 
88 
80 
88 
80 
80 
80 
80 
80 
80 
80 
80 
88 
80 
80 
80 
80 
80 
80 
80 
88 
88 
88 
88 
88 
88 
68 
88 


-3-43 
3S-S1 

as-o 

51-3S 

sera 

47-97 
11-JO 
47« 
4-0 
8-43 
13« 
S-37 
S«4 
34-3 
38'83 
S4-98 
54-71 
50-15 
53«7 
50-14 
5817 
S7-S4 
Id-M 
13-33 
33-65 
53 

4004 
44-37 
58-47 
43-31 
35-03 
53-03 
83-47 
34-65 
34-88 
44 
38-48 


334. 
3033 
49-45 
9-3 
33-3 
31-63 
34-13 


Obeerved 


80  flS-47 

80  361 

88  58-90 

80  3-53 

80  1*35 

88  40-56 

88  98-15 

8B  48-36 

88  3«4 

88  56-04 

88  57-68 

88  SMn 

88  55-04 

80  4153 

80  43«7 

80  Sa-JB 

80  57-71 

80  55-07 

00  3-96 

90  1-88 

80  56-13 

80  40-18 

88  a-33 

88  17-18 

80  4-93 

80  3-70 

80  4-74 

88  »36 

80  1-50 

88  SV» 

88  59-57 

88  55-30 

88  5039 

88  53-07 

88  S3-9B 

8B  0-40 

88  54-37 


88  1-61 

80  5-31 

88  57-83 

88  36-14 

88  54-15 

88  40-31 

88  57-83 


B«BWka. 


M^n  obtenrcd  dip  at  HberUra  Bay  ia  tet.  TQo  1 

,    N,andh>n«.01os4'W.    Variation  OOO  19'-3 

w,  rre*ioiu  to  ny  Jouraey  towaidi  iha  aac' 

netie  pole  --  88o  Sl'iH  N.  (Mat)  . 


^J^'S  ?•  ^«'H?1^  W  ^'  ••»•  *«»  ^ 
«'' N;  long.  040  SS*  W. 

*2  Sli*i,''-,jy*«>**  dlreetlo*  of  laeridiao 
B.750W.   Cnrue.) 

"i^2^  ?•  ^"^^  direction  of  meridian 
N-gy»W;lat.W>5'17"N;  Ionf.9a>itS'48"W. 
8O0  »   N.     Aaramed  direction  of  meridian 
■     N.  150  W. 

Same  poaition  aa  on  the  9Efth  of  May. 
At  Cape  laabeUa.  Lai  60O36'  90";  lon«.03051' W. 
At  Padleak.    Lat.  609  30*  1" ;  long.  93o  37'  53"  w, 

.Olwenred  dip  at  Sheriff  Bay  on  my  return  from 
the  magnetic  pole  89o  a'-33  N.  ( 1831.) 


Obaemd  dip  at  Victory  Harbour  880  54' Js  N. 
Variation  lOl"  32"03  W:  lat  70>  0*  19"  N 
long.  910  30*  33*'  W. 


.     f 


■  eS^' 


:m^«^%&*,*.  -a.  ^^^4^  '  •. 


-uati^l^ 


348 


\ 


SECOND  VOrA«K  OW  OISCOVDBr 


CHAPTER  XLIII.  . 


f  J 


^  ■   '.  ^  .  V 

Remarks  on  the  -Jlssigkment  qfthe  Magnetic  Pole.  ^ 

"«mLtt?«  Tk  ^'^''^^  V'°"8ht  il  necessary  to  .dd  any  of  my  own 
remarks  to  the  several  journals  of  Commander  Ross:  if  I  do  that 
on  th£  present  occasion,  it  is  because  I  have  reserved  all  my  own 
iljagnetic  observations  for  the  Appendix,  so  that  no  opportunity 

t  ^°i' a"*  ^^  "mportant  question  of  the  Magnetic  Pole  has  wcurri 
in  my  Own  journal. 

«.t!Ll?'?l!V*Vt*If!V®"  «PP«»red  to  the  readers  of  our  joint  nar- 
.ratives,  as  if  i  had  taken  no  personal  intertjitin  this  invesUiraUon: 
t  might  possibly  be  supposed,  thait  in  depufiAk  to  my  acU^  and 
intelligent  neohew,  th/Siti,^,chai^ge  of  Se  Jio^  .y&y' of 
t^^J^T'  ^  ^^^  "^""J^^^  referred  to%is  g«id«ice  aS  labours,  every 

o"frsh!p"arr4r''"^'^  "^"^'^"^^^^^^^ 

A  popular^feeling,  alluded  to  in  his  joirfhal,  which  suoDoae^ 
«"r„T.ir^°- ''^  niystenes  to  belong  to  the  magnetic  p^fe,  anCe 
3i;."^'"'^°'''?f'"i''«'  «°°a  fortune,  or  marveUouidepSTf 
r«Z»o-"'-f "!?  *"  '*'  discovery,  as  if  we  had  unexped^ly  found 
a  mountain  of  adamant  or  some  other  wonder  never  witi^B^hw 
^u.  also  tended  to  make  this  product  of  our  v^agr.  St  of 

iT:Tr'^^t^^r'''f'^y  misplaced,  and  can  on^  li?o?^*ti 
by  a  clearer  and  simpler  view  of  the  subject  correciea 

1  hat  th^voyage  of  the  Victory  has  assigned  the  place  of  this  nar- 
ticular  magneUc  DO  e  within  at  iJast  a  very  small  d?8tence  haXn 
seen;  or  sSouId  f  be  suT,rised  if  it  shall  Lreafter  p^^e  tSt  m? 

spot,  notwithstanding  his  own  doubts;  since  every  man  of  sciencJ 
acquainted  with  the  practical  difficulties  of  this  sSct  wheS 
arising  from  the  imperfection  of  instruments,  or  3t  eJ^ 
naTu^  mT^t'and  hL" "T'J  "^ »- V'^ct'deteSafc^^^^^^ 
SSn^  o?iW;  hlJSr  ''"'^  ''  "'^^  '""*  ^^"^  "8ht,  even  when 
As  his  narrative  has  already  observed,  the  supposed  pLe  had 
btfen  long  since  indicated  by  many  experimeats  ^^JTdiS  tJe 

•-  :      .;/     .';        .  .  ,..■;•■    /    ^  J     ^ 


y 


.■  •*■ 


'  1^  TO  THB  ABCTIC  KCOION8. 


-    .TV 

3413, 


The  ^Sinfl  .L"*f'*'^* '"'''  7°^°^  1  •'  **'~"8»'  *''°»«  performed  by' 
ye  personal  att^nuon  or  under  the  direction  oC  Sir  Edward  ParrT 
Thu»  was  It  known  to  ua,  that  while  wa»had  advancS  further  ^JJ^ 
th.a  country  than  the  .11  fortune  of  this  oflScer  had  Sitted  hU  t^ 
do^-owere  we  nearer  to  thi.  presumed  poinTinSid  Js^t  h^S 
been  bv  these  observations,  ahd  others,  and  by  tKculltiii^ 
founded  on  them.  I  know  not  tha(  we  Vould  even  Aave  felt  Z. w 
confidence  on  this  aubii^ct  h.^  «,Ji-r»  t^I-i '_j  „*^?.  ?7®  r«"gw«.ter 


;^51^^r.,^^r^,^>''^»•^l-«  •«<•»  England  wT^hThV  kn'o^irdg; 

tifying,a8  it  was,  after  our 


'.  •*  ,'■  *■ 


of  Professor  Barlow's  calculations,  gratiiymir  as  it  was   .ft«r  «». 

aB<5ctions  to  th«r  discovery  of  a  passage  which  ahould  enable  uSn 
trace  the  course  of  the  northern  shores  of  America,  even  to  SlL^J! 
-trait,  homng  too  that  we  should  effect  this  oSuZ  «tS^  ho£ « 
by  Cape  Horn,  so  was  h  ever  keot  in  view  frim  Jt «   1  "® 

jUj,d«i  to  their  purpoKi «  juSging  them  iSTI^  .?aZX" 

t^^^'^z:*^::"  «*"-' «-».  wweh'?  *-gr^«' 

r*  *  l»P"'"' "M-^  k«l  been  obtuned,  uotil  ft"  1.  t*io JrS  fc 
U  would  not  now  be  here  worth  my  ihile  to  dfLn  tK;- 


-  *.. 


w:."*- 


X, 


•1- 


"^-r^v.^ 


^ 


^""■^WWiJI^f*  ■fl^^'''^'* 


m 


t , 


it- 


V     ^■■■ 


../.^i^ 


.      1 


J 


»^C"^=r"' 


.344 


SECOND  V07AOE  oKsiSCOVEBT 


honopra  as  they  are  entitled  to  on  this  ground,  or  to  claim  the  credit 
of  having  planted  the  British  flag  on  this  long  desired  spot  with  my 
own  hand.     Let  this  last  closing  act  of  my  labours  on  this  subject, 
as  of  theirs,  confer  such  honour  on  thi?  party  as  they  may  claim  or 
deserve:  I  can  say,  like  others,  though  in  a  quotation  rather  hack- 
'  Tif  ^*    '  .**  ^^^^  <l"i  ™e™»^  ferat,''^and  if  I  myself  consent  to  award 
that  palm  to  hiin  who  commanded  this  successful  party;  as  is  the 
usage,  It  must  not  be  forgotten  that  in  this  I  surrender  those  per- 
:  sooal  claims  whiSh  are  never  abandoned  by  the  commander  of  that 
flag-ship  which  so  often  gains  the  victory  through  the  energy,  intelli- 
Mnce,  and  bravery  of  the  men  and  officers  whom  he  dilnjcts  and" 
fltders,  or  by  the  captain-general  who- carries  a  town  throiwh>  the 
courage  and  activity  of  the  sergeant  who  leads  the  <^  forlorn  hope." 
A    •     i  'i*lV°"«  *'»'8»  ^  should  not  be  justified  in  thus  surren- 
dfflBng  the  rights  of  the  brave,  and  patient,  and'enduring  crew  of  the 
Victory,  nor  nerhaps  those  of  hfm,  the  nobie-mihded  and  generous, 
who  sent  the  Victory  and  her  crew  to  the  Polar  regions.    It  must 
be  hereafter  remembered  in  history,  and  will  be  so  recorded,  that  it 
was  the  ship  Victory,  under  the  command  of  Captain  John  Ross, 
which  assigned  the  north- wesi- Magnetic  Pole„4n  the  year  1831, and- 
ttat  this  vessel  was  fitted  out  by  him  whom  I  ^n  now  call  Sir  Felix 
JJooth;  a  name  to  be  honoured,  had  it  even  i^emamed  without  such 
a  distinction,  as  long  as  British  generosity  and  spirit  shall  be  ^corded 
as  a  chanteteristic  of  th«.merchants  of  Brit«dn.        -     », 
^  In  thisway  and  no  p!her,  let  the  discovery  of  the  Magnetic  Pole 
be  now  viewed ;  that  in  doing  justice  to  any,  it  may  be  withheld  from 
none.    Surely  every  man  of  this  hard-used  ship,  from  the  highekt    ' 
to  the  lowest,  deserves  to  share  in  the  praise  which  the  puplic  may 
award  for  whatever  it  was  our  good  fortqne  to  effect    It  is  but  a 
small  reward,  after  all,  for  what  every  one  endured;  and  sweet  as  it 
mav  bej  It  requires  much  forgetfulness  of  our  past  sufferings  not  to 
leel  that  it  was  dearly  purchased,  while  it  would  be  hard  indeed 
were  this  tribute  withheld  from  such  enterprise,  such  patient  en- 
vjlurance,  such  toils  and  sufferings  so  long«ontinued,and  such  a  spirit 
.  ot  hope  and  energy,  amid  circumsUnces  capable  of  sinkiDs  almost 
any  heart  into  the  depths  of  despair.        '  6  «»'»»i 


A 


■fHrn-m*-" 


ft- ... 


TO  TBE  ARCTIC  MMIOIT*. 


34i 


:;>•■ 


CHAPTER  XLIV. 


Transactions  during  the  remainder  qf  June— The  Journal  and 

the  SammaryLqfJnljf. 

*u'?*'**.^'*j*'  ^^w  fell  to-day,  and  the  ground  was  so  covered, 
that  BO  land  could  be  seen,  nW  was  there  an  atom  of  runmnK  water 
or  a  single  pool  visible.  The  temperature,  however,  rose  to  400  for 
the  first  time.  Son^e  grouse  were  killed  yesterday  and  this  day,  and 
also  on  the  following  onef  On  the  sixteenth  it  snowed;  yet  the  sun  • 
shone  after^vards,  and  there  was  at  length  a  pool  of  water  near  the 
ship.  17M.  That  water  froze  again  an  inch  thick,  and  did  not  open 
till  noon,  when  some  impression  was  made  in  the  snow,  ittereannc 
on  the  following  day,  and  thus  terminating  our  week.  c 

19th.  Sunday  saw  the  usual  duties  performed.  On  vMwday  the 
day  was  warm,  and  the  nigh^  temperature  was  freezing;  Floeki  of 
ducks  and  geese  were  seen  flying  to  the  northf  and  some  crouie 
were  killed.  .  <>  -    r       "^^ 

21*/.  The  sun  had  now  very  iiearly  reached  its  greatest  elottn- 
taon.  It  ^aa  the  summer  solstice,  ahd  not  a  drop  of  rain 'had  yet 
falleft,  nor  had  the  thermometer  once  made  its  round  of  twenty-fenr 
hours,  without  rekching  the  freezing  point  But  in  the  course  of  this 
day,  the  first  rain  fell,  lasting  two  hours:  though  the  ice  fontoed  in 
the  night  had  been  an  inch  ti^ick.  . 

22d.  There  ww  a  fresh  gale  from  the  northward  in  the  mominc: 
but  on  this  and  the  following  day,  it  froze  equally  hard  at  nisSt 
alongside  m  the  ship.  On  the  twenty-fourth  it  was  still  colcbr- 
since  the  thermometer  was  at  30"  in  the  morning,  and  did  not  reaoh 
the  freezing  point  tiU  nine.  On  the  following  it  was  at  the  fieesinc 
point  dl  the  twenty-four  hours,  thus  1>riqging  round  Saturday  agaiiu 
A  Mod  many  birds,  consisting  of  geese,  ducks,  grouse,  and  plovm. 
had  been  killed  within  these  past  days.  o        »        r        -» 

26th.    Sunday  offered  no  change;  on  Monday  thwe  was  rain  m 
Uie  evening,  and  we  could  now  at  last  supply  ourselves  with  wtfw 
from  the  shore.    Yet  the  pools  froze  agaia  on  the  twwitypualh,  tte 
thermometer  iaihng  to  31^;  and,  en  the  thirtieth,  the  metn  of  the 
44 


7 


'":  ■  K-^i,.-'*,t.-" 


I  ff 


\ 


'!*■ 
■^ 


X, 


HS 


SaoOVD  VOTAOB  OF  DISCOVEBT. 


tRTWity-four  hours  was  but  35»  In  the  mean  tinie,  the  ri««nir  of 
the  ship  h^  been  going  on,  and  was  now  nearly  completed.  It  was 
tomewhat  dispiriting  to  find  that  we  should  be  ready  so  lonir  before 
the  weather,  and  thkt  we  had  arrived  at  the  en*  of  June,  had  passed 
the  solstice,  and  were  still  to  see  nightly  frosts,  with  little  compen- 
sation in  the  day.  A  winter  solstice  in  England  is  very  rarely  in- 
deed what  the  summer  one  Was  in  this  most  miserable  reeior.  and 
most  abominable  Climate. 

Such,  nevertheless,  is  the  climate  in  which  man  contrives  to  live. 

w«"f^*M  **  "°  ".8^*  *°  ^"P"**'  ^^'•PP^y-  He  cannot  drink 
water  at  Midsummer,  It  is  true,  till  he  has  boiled  his  snow:  ancl 
had  he  not  wit,  enough  to  produce  fire,  he  would  have  nothine 
to  drink  for  nine  months  of  the  year.  He  smells  at  no  flowers,  for 
ttere  are  none  ta  smell  at;  but  he  prefers  the  odour  of  train  oil. 
£f  hJf  r  carrots  or  "small  herbs,"  for  his  soup  or  his  seasoning; 
wh.n  h??^  ^^  ''"  '!^?'°'"g  »^'  alike,  oil,  and  he  can  find  a  sallaS 
ISTJko*  «?f  ^  V  particulM-lj.  great,  in  the  stomach  of  a  reindeer 
!«  t^^^  too,  cooked  in  a  heat  of  which  the  advantages  have 
fhTJir/T**''*u  ^^  ^*  °*^^"  "^^  *•»«'  "tterly  inconceivable 
SfiSL  /  ',^'  T***'  "»«tters  it,  when  he  can  construct  coaches 
;S;f?'*?  1?*"S'*^°^'*°"®"^  and  if  he  can  make  his  lodging, 
nit  merdy  «x>n  the  cold  «x)und,»  but  on  the  cold  snow,  his  fie  at 
lf5"»?'"h";d»"  and  why,  if  he  thinks  so,  iftie  not  as  well  lodged 
M  the  pnnces^tthe  earth,  the  marble  of  whose  palaces  does  not  an- 
proaeh  m  punty  to  the  materials  of  his  architecture,  while  his  own 
rnvble  house  is  erected  m  an  hour,  and  can  be  renewed,  like  that  of 

must  be  a  doble  animal,  that  is  certain,  be  he  even  under  the  fijrure 
IITl^T*   m!.^°,?*J."*  Esquimaux:  is  there  another  beasfo^ 

S^  S?i  ?  n  ?u*"  *?"'  *"'*"'^  '^^  t*'"'  '^°'»^'^«  all  this,  .conform 
to  all  this,  to  all  this  and  more,  and  still  be  h^ppy :  happy  if  he  is  in 
Naples,  happy  too  in  Boothia  Felix?  ^  ^^^  ppyuneism 
h^Sl?  SS  *^'»'>**«7J?'«'»  ""ited  those  who  know  not  another  or  a 
!Er  I.  I  V^y  different  effect  on  our  feelings,  independently  of 
Si  Afhl"^^'""«»  and  privations  of  which  it  5as  tiie  cVuse.  WheS 
SIS  w.?S?"  T  ^'^^  "P?"  the  abundance  of  eating,  and  where 
Srha^nin?«  *"?*lP*r^°'  that  -teady  supply  of  themterials  of 
mil  te  f  '  ^h»ch  these  specimens  of  man  partook  with  the  ani- 
Sm^„f?r''''n?u'*  «°"'*^*"*''''  *he  almost  sole  enjoyment "  and 
SSrt;.f„Mt:.'"  ^*"*'  *^"  "^^^"^y  °'-  badness  of  the  climate  could 
h.rthri^.r  "*'  "°''  '^'■^"«  ""^^  ^°^  »  hard  winter  or  a  long  one, 
t«lS^  tJ  "^~°'  t^nticipate  a  season,  bad  or  good,  to  ho^e  ot 
m^  it^!  KT*''  "*"?  °/  **»'"«»  ^"  ^^^  ^>ff«^«"t  t'o  us;  w^ose 
^^T^L  ''"'  °^^  i°P*'  i^^"»^  "'•'«"««  •"  the  result  I  ima- 
£^^  ITSTk^?  •  T'"'''"  ^"^  "'•?'''  "°*  arrive  till  winter  was  once 

IJL^itJ??^^  i'"'*i.°"?uT'*  "^""^  *°  "^^^^  a  command  that 
waa  h^tly  to  endure  for  the  better  part  of  another  year. 


1 


4 


.V,  1_ 


'  .'&'.  .,,.    <•-  "^^u"*^ 


for 


y 


TO  THE  ARCTIC  RBaiOlfS. 


u% 


M  *^'""'™*^^  ^^^^  month  is  not  consolotary.  If  we  had  con- 
sidered the  last  June  as  colder  than  any  which  had  been  recorded  in 
former  voyages,  the  present  had  turned  out  much  worse,-  havimt 
been  both  more  cold  a'hd  more  stormy,  for  the  fi#t  two  weeks, 
the  mean  temperature  was  7°;  and  during  the  last,  between  2°  and 
3  :  giving  a  mean  for  the  wholfe  month,  less  by  5°  than  that  of  the 
preceding  June.  Moreover,  tlie  first  rain  fell  on  the  twenty-first, 
and  was  little  more  than  a  shower;  whereas,  in  the  former  year, 
that  had  occurred  on  the  tenth.  I  have  already  noticed  that  the 
summer  solstice  had  passed  without  our  having  had  one  whole  day 
above  the  freezing  point   » 

There  was  much  stormy  weather;  but  it  is  also  a  remarkable  fact, 
that  while,  m  the  former  year,  the  temperature,  always  rose  on  those 
onions,  it  never  alt  Bred  in  the  present  one;  making  an  essential 
difference  between  %  y^wo  seasons,  the  cause  of  which  was  not  ap- 
parent The  general  «sult,  in  the  state  of  the  snow  and  the  ioL 
has  alreadrb^n  seen;? and  the  prospect  was  therefore  sufficiently 
discouraging.  At  th(^best,  and  should  no  worse  come,  this  season 
vwas  three  weeks  latei  than  any  former  one  on  record  in  this  dimate. 
The  possible  future  ^  still  before  us:  it  might  prove  better  than 
was  expected;  but  I /« \&^  not  quite  sure  that  many  of  us  hoped  much. 

Except  the  fhateJ*iiylor,  all  the  men  were  now  well,  and  his 
wound  was  healingi  The  supply  of  fish  by  the  natives  had  been 
abundant  and  benefic'iai.  The  late  period  at  which  the  waterfowl 
arrived  was  remarkabli;  but  our  sport  in  general  had  been  nuntf 
successfuLtlian  formerljfi^^ 

Commander  R6s%ji>ad  explored  much  more  of  the  coast;  and  It 
was  remarked  b^  both  o(  us,  that  the  temperature  on  the  weftern 
side  of  the  penifasula  and  on  the  western  lakea^  was  from  10°  to  l^ 
lower  than  that  at  the  ship,  which  was  on  the  east  side;  while  ^ 
comparisons  Were  made  with  such' care  that  we  could  not  luiy«  been 
deceived.        /  .r- ->»><» 


-1> 


E}«^«^^  \    . 


^       t     P-,i\         Sv    1- 


S4(l 


SBOOirD  VOYAOV  OF  DlSOOVBRT 


CHAPTER  XLy. 


.<■< 


Proceedings  in  July,  August,  and  September,  with  the  Sum- 
maries of  those  respective  months. 

I -July  1st.  Ths  mornine  was  cold  and  8tonn]r/and  it  continued 
to  Uow  hard  in  squaHs  during  the  following  day,  the  temperature 
falling  to  31°  and  the  air  feeling  extremely  cold.  There  was  snow 
«t  ninie,  and  it  moderated.  Commander  Ross  went  out  shooting 
with  a  party,  and  inet  a  collection  of  five  native  families,  all  strangers 
to  qs  except  one,  who  had  been  once  on  board  during  the  former 
«bmmer.  They  pitched  their  tents  for  the  night,  and  five  of  the 
men  came  to  the  ship  with  our  o£Scers,  making  as  much  clamour  on 
their  arrival  as  our  original  friends  had  donie.  They  had  heard  of 
OS  at  Neitehillee,  and  came  for  the  purpose  of  bartering  some  clothing 
for  our  valuable  articles.  ■ 

f  It  was  proper,  of  course,  to  go  through  all  the  usual  exhibi^ons 
of  wonderi^  and  the  effects  were  such  as  might  have  been  expected. 
'  They  l^ul  heard  of  the  more  noi^thern  men,  whose  portraits  we  pos- 
iilMed,  but  had  never  seen  a  ship,  as  their  stations  were  further  west 
than  AkuUee.  Each  received  a  piece  of  iron  hoop  as  a  present,  and 
tiie/eng^iged  to  bring  their  articles  of  barter  the  next  day,  together 
with  their  wives  and  families. 
^  3d.  The  frost  was  so  severe  in  the  night,  that  it  froze  an  inch 
•nd  a  hdf  thick  near  the  ship.  There  were  several  showers  of  snow 
in  the  forenoon,  and  in  the  evening  it  blew  a  fresh  gale.  Soon  after 
church  the  natives  arrived,  forming  a  large  collection  of  men,  wives, 
and  children.  They  were  good  booking,  as  Esquimaux,  and  their 
bdiairiour  was  orderly;  but  they  had  brought  only  a  pair  of  seal- 
•kin  trowsers  for  sale.  All  were  entertained  in  some  part  of  the 
tbip  or  other,  and  none  of  the  women  were  dismissed  without  some 
yrtavat,  including  Among  these,  the  valuable  tin  canisters.  The  bus- 
mumIb  seemed  particularly  pleased  by  this  attention  to  theif-  wives. 
«  It  really  seems  as  if  these  people  possessed  some  of  those  feelings 
of  pSkatrjf  or  ehivahry  as  it  has  been  termed,  which  have  been  sup- 
polfed  ]M«iliar.to  the  r^ed  among  men  and  natioqa.    How  rare 


X 


1 


A^'* 


:,-":/':■■'. 


Sunt' 


TO  WIK  ARCTIC  RiOlORU 


349 


tliis  i9  among  the  "aavages"  of  the  lyorld,  ei 
directly  tt)e  reverse  the  feelings  and  the  conduct  are,  in  most  of  the 
islands  of  tiie  southern  ocean,  and,  above  all,  in  Australia,  has  heen 
long  familijir.    If  we  are  correctly  informedl  many  others  of  the  - 
Esquimaux  tribes  in  i-Jorthern  America  conduist  themselves  towards 
tiieir  females  in  no  better  manner  than  the  Australians;  while  among 
^e  red  Indlkns  of  the  saOie  portions  of  this  continent,  if  the  treat- 
ment of  wi^  varies  am^tig  different  b-ibes,  tifie  balance  far  inclines 
tOHhat  miktlire  of  aeverity  and  neglect  which  Ss  assuredly  the  gene- 
ral rule  for  man  in  his  Ujacultivated  State.       j 
"  Whentefts  this  diffe'rence,  equally  characteristic  of  the  present 
tribes  and  bf  the  Greei^landei^?     We  could  ijot  be  mistaken  as  to 
the  facts[  it  sometime^  conscious  that  our  templer  was  to  look  at  every 
thing  inthe  most  fetfiurable  light;  and  if;  to  lEuropean  eyes,  what 
we  hear  occasionally/  related  of  the  occupations  and  duties  of  the 
women  seems  to  point  to  a  different  conclusion,  it  must  be  remem- 


^ong  to  a  system  of  the  "division  of  labour."    Iik 

e  women  cannot  be  idle;  fthere  is  no  leisure  for 

sex  which  would  keep  thiem  as  objects,  either  of 

usement:  all  must  wore,  fr  most  would  starve: 

e,  that  the  duties  of  wom^n  are  here  claimed  as 

is  the  right/of  the  women^  not  their  service,  to 

ut  of  the  water,  on  many  p4rts  of  the  French  and 

_^ ^    here  also  any  infringement  (|f  the^  on  the  part  of 

the  men,  woul|  be  resisted  by  ^veryweapoli  which  thesex  so  well 
knows  how  toiMSe.  j 

It  has  beenlisaid  that  this  gallantry  belohgs  most  conspicuously, 
if  DOt  exclusi^y,  to  nations  under /kingly  ^r  despotic  governments, 
even  as  it  did  to.  that  singular  specif  of  deq})otim  which  constituted 
W«  can  refef  to  the/Greek  republics  in  proof 


bered  that  these 
such  a  condition 
that  idolatry  of 
admiration  or  ai 
while  it  is  also 
rights,  even  as 
carr3r\'the  men 
I^utch  coasts. 


system.  YT«    can     rClCI^    «»     UICJ«V»1«5CB>    lCpUUII«>B    lU    |MWVI. 

the/revi^liK  manner;  ajad  who  is  therp  now,  that 


m  rare 


the  feudal 

of  this  theoiy,  in     . 

is  not  equally  ready ib  qubteHbe  United State^of  America,  where 
the  feelings  of  ^^flflS^y,  in  ne^e^ilV  rendering  all  n^n  tyrants, 
has  produced  tfeiKnegl^  at  leist,  of  Ahe  sex,  which  is  as  near  an 
approach  to  ojiipression  las  could  be  bractised  in  a  country  so  far 
partaking  of  Europe  as  it  does.  In  the  blessed  country,  however, 
now  under  review,  this  theory  d,oea|4ot  apply,  for  there  is  not  even 
an  aristocaracy,  as  there  is,  in  mlity,  no  government;  so  that  I 
must  leave  it  to  others  to  solve  this  problem:  while  this  history  of 
the  palmy  stat»[of  the  feir  portiji^  of  creation  in  Boothia  Felix,  may 
alio  tend  to  shdw  that  no  hypbthesis  yet  advanced  is  competent  to 
the  solution -of  that  great  question^  namehr,  the  treatment  of  women 
by  the  other  sex,  ita  causes  and  itjt  modw 

'  4th.  The  men  came  to-day,  according  to  promise,  brinf^ngjwme 
clothing  and  trifles  for  sale;  but  they  went  away  soon,  witii  a  pro- 
miw  to  return  witty-tome  seals  and  some  fish.  5th.  Tliere  was  snow, 
both  on  this  day,  and  the  next,  and ;the. thermometer  still  fell  to  the 


11 


i 


♦    »3 


A 


'  ) 


.VI 

1  ,1 

j 


/^ 


..^' 


ii.- 


■f  / 


■«w^- 


/ ; 


350 


.,;    SEOO*D  VOYAOB  OP  Dl'SOOVERt   /' 


'^,'- 


freezing  point  at  night  In  the  morning  the  strangers  appeared,  in- 
forming  us  that  th6y  were  going  to  fish  in  the  lake  and  at  the  river 
where  we  procured  Jth^  fish  last  year:  on  which  'Commander  Ross 
engaged  to  accompanfc-i  tjiem.  •  ^ 

6M.  Fog  and  snoy^'coitinued;  but  when  our  officers  had  arrived 
at  the  native  huts  jJ,s#U5a  been  all  taken  down,  and  the  party  was 
gone  m  thedirection  pfNeitchillee.  We  were  unable  to  account 
for  this  change  of  plan.  A  litter  of  foxes  was  discovered  by  one 
of^the  "^^^-"^^oMmed  the  male;  and  a  party  going  olit  on 
?•' '**y?7'J'  f.¥  t'f*  "''J  fe™«>e'  «nd  brought  away  si?  living  cubs. 
In  Boothia  Felix  Uv^re  is  not  at  least  starvation  enough  to  p?event 
foxes  from  having  sufficient  families.  About  twenty  ducks,  and  some 
other  birds,  were  shot  on  these  different  days.     There  was  nothing 

Ih^tmL'^'itTsr^  ^*"'*^'  "'^'^'^  '^'  ^'^'^  -"»  *«  -«»»' 
lOM.  There  was  a£resh  northerly  breeze  on  Sunday,  and  it  was 
very  cold.  On  the  Allowing  day,  it  was  more  squally,  and  the 
maximum  of  the  thermometer  was  but  37°.  On  the  twelfth,  there 
.was  the  hiehest  tide  that  we  had  ever  seen;  since  it  rose  to  more  than 
eighteen  feet,  being  the  third  day  after  the  mooii's  chanee.  Our 
sport  was  very  successful;  and  we  found,  among  other  birds,  the 

*  ?io"  u  ."r^"''*''-  '**  °^'.'  °^  ^8gs.  13M.  The  thermometer  rose 
to  40°,  but  fell  again  on  the  next  day,  which  was  very  cold,  with 
sfeetand  rain  and  an  easterly  wind,  so  that  the  evpning  ended  at 
53°.  I  contrived  to  take  several  fish,  on  these  days,  by  means  of 
the  spear  which  the  natives  use  for  this  purpose. 

15M.  This  morning  displayed  a  mixture  and  succession  of  rain, 
snow,  mist,  and  clouds;  any  where  else,  it  would  have  been  a  bad 
fifteenth  of  November  instead  of  a  fifteenth  of  July,  and  it  nearly 
froze  at  night    Two  of  the  natives  came  with  thirty  pounds  of  sal- 

!?°.°lu  "i  /T™'"^  "5  ***«  *®y  ^*^  "*"y  '"•"•e;  o^  which  it  wa»  set- 
tled that  Commander  Ross  should  go  with  a  party  to  fetch  them:  a 
journey  that  would  occupy  four  days.  On  the  sixteenth,  the  ther^ 
•  mometer  reached  44°,  being  the  finest  day  we  had  yet  s^en  during 
this  year;  and  Commander  Ross,  with  the  surgeon  and  eiehtmen 
accompanied  by  the  natives,  departed.     Why  Hid  we  not  believe  it 

*  fine  and  warm  July  day  ?  It  could  have  been  but  84°  in  Endand. 
and  when  our  Christmas  heat  was  but  eighty  degrees  under  tiSat  of 
our  own  country,  why  should  we  not  haVe  thought  a  difference  of 
no  more  than  forty  a  precious  boon? 

Jk  to  3l°lr„1ih? ■  'f-^f'' '"  the  day.ti^e,  but  the  thermometer 
sank  to  34  at  night,  and  it  froze  on  Monday  morning,  18M,  though 

^kJS-  '°^  *•"'  ^^Y^*'  "8""  ^'*°  It  «°"^d  scared/  indeed  E 
otherwise,  surrounded  as  we  were  by  snow  and  ice,  on  which  all 
that  a  nocturnal  sun  could  do  was  without  effect  It  did  not  mater- 
uUy  change  on  the  itineteenth;  and,  in  the  absence  of  the  iDst  of 
my  companions,  my  time  waspassed  in  taking  angles  and  observa- 


^V 


^/- 


TO  THE  AR6TtO  RB0I0IT9. 


351 


1^ 


tions,  and  in  shooting,  while  the  men  on  board  were  busy  in  caulk- 
ing. Our  boats  were  sunk  in  the  water,  to  prevent  them  from 
splitting. 

20th.  The  mate  and  five  of  the  men  arrived  witl^^a  sledge  loaji  of 
fish,  and  we  found'  abundant  employment  in  sorting  and  disposing 
of  them.  A  large  proportion  belonged  to  a  store  of  the  former  year, 
and  was  not,  therefore,  in  very  good  condition;  thirty -seven,  taken 
in  the  present  one,  weighed  129  pounds.  After  rest  and  refresh- 
ment, the  men  set  out  agftin  at  nine  in  the  evening,  with  three  days' 
more  provisions,  the  pontoon,  a  net,  and  three  dogs,  to  join  Com- 
mander Ross,  who  remained  fishing,  with  the  natives,  at  the  place' 
where  he  had  appointed  then). 

2lst.  The  weather  was  the  same;  there  was  a  warm  day  with  a 
cold  night  I  shot  a  hare  in  its  summer  coat;  and  the  ptarmigans 
had  been  observed  changing  their  plumage  sometime  before.  I  now 
found  that  there  was  a  much  gretter  variety  of  small  birds  here 
than  we  had  supposed  last  year:  many  that  I  saw  this  day  were 
unknown  to  me:  but  I  met  with  the  nest  of  a  sandpiper,  with  the 
young,  as  I  did  again  .on  th^  following  day.  On  that  one  there  was^ 
some  rain:  a  rare  event  as  yet,  in  thn  extremely  backward  season. 
Thp  surgeon  arrived  before  the  evening,  to  report  that  sixteen  hun- 
dred fish  were  taken,  and  to  demanti  assistance  for  the  purpose  of 
bringing  home  four  hui^dred  which  wei;e  on  the  road.  These  arrived 
-consequently,  at  midnight;  ,and  the  whole  of  the  next  day,  23rd, 
was  fully  occupied  in  cleaning  and  packing  them  in  several  ways; 
among  which,  some  were  preserved  in  vinegar.  The  weight  of 
those  four  hundred,  after  all  these  operations,  exceeded  a  thousand 
pounds:  it  was  a  great  addition  to  our  ttock. 

24th.  Having  no  Sunday  congregation  to-day,  from  the  absence 
of  nearly  all  tfa^  people,  there  was  no  service.  I  found  a  nest  of 
snow  buntings  ready  to  fly,  which  I  brought  on  board,  hoping  to 
rear  them  up  tame.  Five  of  the  men  fropi  the  second  party  arrived 
on  Monday,  much  exhausted.  They  had  lost  their  way,  and  had 
left  the  sledge  five  miles  off,  having,  very  impropierly,  no  officer 
with  them.  Mr.  Thom  and  the  remaining  inen  returned  with  them 
after  they  ha'd  rested,  and  at. six,  they  brought  back  five  hundred 
fish,  cleaned,  and  weighing  1500  pounds.  The  curing  and  packing 
of  these  found  employment  for  every  one. 

26M.  The  party  again  set  off  for  more  fish,  after  the  sl^dj^e  hkd 
been  repaired;  and  on  the  next  day,  they  returned- with  tWb  hun» 
dred,  .which  was  all  they  could  carry;  bringing  also  a  note  from 
Commander  Ross,  by  which  I  learned  that  they  had  taken  3378 
fish  at  one  haul.  The  ice  was,  however,  decaying  so  rapidly,  that  be 
found  they  could  not  all  be  conveyed  to  the  ship  in  i  sound^state, 
even  had  the  roads  permitted,  "there  was  abundant  work  for  us 
now,  and  no  prospect  of  want;  those  that  could  be  spared  were  sent 


'1 
V 


WiV 


958 


SSCOKD  VOTAQC  Or  DISCOVERT 


f<      / 


i>^ 


f^ 


R 

/  , 
?   . 


it 


back  on  the  same  errand,  to  the  halfway  island  where  these  fish 
were  deposited.    ' 

28/A.  Commander  Ross  arrivjed,  reporting  that  both  his  parties 
were  on  their  way,  with  five  huiidred  fish;  and  that  there  wwe  •• 
many  more  to  bring  fix)m  the  islknd.  They  had  taken,  in  all,  fiVe 
thousand  and  sixty-seven,  but  were  obliged  to  leave  three  thousand 
of  them  to  the  nativesj  the  breaking  up  of  the  ice  compelling  them 
to  quit  their  position.  At  five,  the  first  party  retarned,  having  left 
the  sledge  two  miles  off  One  of  them  was  ill,  and  the  rest  could 
brmar  it  no  further.  The  second  party  came  in  at  eight,  with  three 
hundred  fish,  and  with  the  man.  Buck,  who  had  been  seized  with 
epilepsey,  on  the  sledge.  In  the  evening,  both  sledges  retarned  to 
the  island  to  bring  back  the  tent,  the  net,  and  the  remainder  of  the 
fish.  ®    . 

29th.  The  thermometer  at  night  was  but  36<»;  but  the  following 

day  was  the  warmest  we  had  seen,  as  the  mid-day  heat  was  50°,  and 

the  mean  41°.    At  eight  in  the  morning,  one  of  the  sledges  came 

back  witti  the  nets  and  tents,  and  three  hundred  and  fi%  fish. 

Finding  that  two  of  the  men  belonging  to  the  other  sledge  were 

exhausted,  two  others  were  sent  to  replace  them,  and  all  retarned 

at  ten.    The  thermometer  on  Saturday  night  was  41**:  it  had  never 

^  yet  be^  so  hiah  at  that  hour.  ^^'-^ 

"     31*/.  The  day  of  rest  was  especially  acceptable.    The  ice  at 

length  dissolv^  so  mych,  that  we  could  not  get  on  shore  from  the 

ship  without  tile  aid  of  a  boat;  though  this  bay  was  far  from  beinc 

so  clear  as  it  was  at  the  same  date  in  the  last  year,  while  the  ice  in 

the  offing  was  not  nearly  so  advanced  in  decay.    The  month  ended 

at  last,  with  fine  weather:  there  was  not  a  cloud  to  be  seen  when 

the  sun  «et  at  midnight 

A  comparison  of  the  mean  temperatare  of  this  July  with  the  pre- 
ceding one,  shows  that  it  had  \Mn  nearly  70"  colder:  that  havine 
been  37°  instead  of  44°.  The  highest  heat  had  been  70°  in  thelastT 
in  the  present,  it  was  but  50°:  but  the  lowest  only  differed  by  one 
degree;  being  32°  in  the  former,  and  31°  in  this  period.  ^ 

There  had  been  much  work  for  the  men,  in  fitting  the  ship  for 

■?i  t°  i/°  /*®f^  °^  **'"  ^^^^  '•»  travelling  and  in  the  curinc 
01  bsh.  Many  had,  in  consequence,  been  aUing  as  Well  as  fatigued 
but  were  recovering,  as  was  the  man  whose  foot  had  been  amputa- 
ted. ,  He  with  the  epilepsy  was  the  chief  patient;  but  as  he  had  not 
Mpenenced  a  fit  ever  since  we  had  taken  him  on  board,  we  hoped 
that  it  might  not  soon  return. 

The  men  having  become  more  practised  sportsmen,  our  success 
m  this  way  had  gone  on  increasing;  and  as  every  thing  was  thrown 
into  the  public  stock  and  divided  among  the  messes,  the  game  thus 
obtained  ^  useful  variety  in  their  diet  w«*«  u»«" 

If  our  success  in  fishing  made  up  for  the  disappointment  which 
we  experienced  from  the  natives,  so  was  it  of  great  use  to  them. 


'V 


'V 


TO  THE  ARCTIC  BEOtORt. 


SM 


We  had  discovered  that  the  salmon  arrived,  on  the  breaking  up 
of  the  ice,  in  even  greater  crowds  than  we  had  at  first  understood; 
since,  by  entering  the"  water  outside  of  the  line  of  their  course,  the 
natives  could  drive  them  into  the  small  pools  on  the  shore,  or  even 
on  the  dry  land  itself.  It  is  plain,  that  whatever  the  seals  mkj 
devour,  the  fish  cannot  here  have  many  enemies:  while  this,  indeed, 
seems  generally  true  of  all  the  northern  shores  where  salmon  abound. 

By  accompanying  us  in  our  fishery,  the  natives  had  now,  for  the 
first  time,  seen  the  use  of  a  net,  and  what  is  not  always  the  case 
with  those  whose  conceit  is  ever  commensurate  with  their  ignorance, 
they  were  fully  aware  of  its  value.  Seeing  this,  we  took  the  trouble 
to  ibkch  them  the  art  of  making  one,  though  not  quite  sure  whether 
the  materials  to  which  they  are  limited  would  enable  them  to  fabri- 
cate any  that  could  be  of  much  use.  If  this  should,  however,  prove 
the  fact,  then  had  we  taught  them  a  valuable  art,  in  making  them  a 
present  of  knowledge'  which,  to  them,  was  of  the  first  importance; 
in  this  too,  improving  their  condition  in  a  greater  degree  than  by  all 
the  useful  tools  and  materials  which  we  had  sold  or  given  to  them. 

One  consolation  we  assuredly  had  derived  from  our  communica- 
tion with  them,  of  a  more  durable  and  agreeable  remembrance  than 
all  the  advantages  that  we  had  gained  from  them  in  the  way  of  trade. 
We  had  sold  them  no  rum,  we  had  introduced  no  diseases  among 
them,  Bor  had  we,  in  any  thing  done  aught  to  corrupt  their  morals 
or  injure  their  healths,  to  render  them  less  virtuous  or  less  happy 
than  we  had  found  them.  Nor  had  they  learned  any  thing  from  us, 
to  make  them  discontented  with  their  present  and  almost  inevitable 
condition.  On  the  contrary,  while  we  soon  hoped  to  leave  them  aft 
happy  as  we  had  found  them,  we  had  reason  to  believe  that  they 
would  hereafter  so  far  profit  by  our  example,  and  by  the  displays  of 
knowledge  and  ingenuity  which  they  had  seen  with  us,  as  well  aft 
by  the  various  useml  things  we  had  distributed  among  them,  as  to> 
augment  their  own  ingenuity  and  resources,  and  thus  improve  their 
condition  of  life  as  far  as  that  was  capable  of  improvement 

That  we  could  not  instruct  or  improve  them  in  r^igion  or  mjorals, 
we  might  regret;  but  we  could  not  blame  ourselves  for  not  under- 
taking a  task  which  was  rendered  impracticable  by  the  limited  na- 
ture of  our  communication,  and  the  obstructions  consequent  on  our 
deficiency  in  their  language:  we  at  least  made  the  only  attempt  in 
our  power,  by  endeavouring  lo  instruct  one  of  their  youths;  but  how 
this  failed,  I  have  formerly  shown.  Where  navigators  in  general 
have  committed  so  much  evil  among  the  rude  tribes  which  they 
have  visited,  even  this  negative  conduct  was  a  matter  of  self-congratu- 
lation: while  we  can  now,  at  home,  and  when  we  shall  see  these 
people  no  more,  reflect" with  pleasure  on  what  we  avoided  to  do, 
and  even  on  what  we  did;  indulging  too  at  times  in  the  dream,  that 
should  they  ever  again  bd^risited  by  an  European  people,  our  mem- 

-    ♦         •    ..  ■ 


^•y- 


M 


'-Aft 


H- 


854 


SECOWD  VOTAOB  OF  OISCOVBRY 


ory  may  be  handed  down  to  a  remote  poaterity,  with   domiUv  m 

?£T%'  ^r"  "'.^'''  ^^''^.»>  8'W-  the  nam^of  MS.rSm£ 
«fr^ti^   tht^TS?"""?*  ^thismonth  relate  tdSi;:S^ial 
pmcticaS;    C     iV'^l^'^'l  ""t""^  '^ere  continued  when  that  was 
We  w^  Im  i°"««*'°"»  i°  "-t^ral  history  had  been  augmented. 

y    Account  ^theS,^^  SalnumobM^  at  the  River,  mul  received  i»: 


■ii.. 


Sewn  cuka  of  Salmon  pickled  in  hot 

One  cMk  picU(  d  and  dried       ,  . 

»|>ghtlyaalted  in  the  rocks      -  . 

fnah  apht  and  (briedon  the  rocka  . 

Injara  pfckled  srith  vinenr      -  .  - 

Used  tor  the  Bhi^      -       w       .  ; 

^pt  tor  preaent  use         .       .    .  L 
l^pecunena       •  .     ■       , 

Beeeiyed  in  liaga  aftarwaida 


vinegar,  in  No.  1878 
Z.      -  144 

-       -    \     177 
•       -     \   181 

r   .  •     \  w 

\  80 
27 

aoe 


Three  hundred  were  afterwards%ouKht^  to  the  ahin   »«.♦  «-i 


dogs. 


^. 


v- 


if 

I            ■        ■ 

■•            ., 

> 

'1 

< 

» 

• 

'                      ■       \ 

> 

t 

"  " 

'  m 

;•!;■              .■■'••■■' 

• 

•'■■  ^    .   ■  \. 

*■  ■ 

Msibly,  w 
Capac 
temifltrial 
1  that  was 
igmented. 
kely  tobe 
at  in  the 
B  time,  it 
t  of  clear 

f  supplies 


mwi  Ml' 


>ut  only 


.%"! 


S«-; 


TO  THE  ARCTIC  HBOIOVa. 


351 


CHAPTER  XLVI. 


Journal  qf  ^ugtist—the  Victory  moved  out  of  her  harbour^ 
attempts  to  proceed  along  the  shore— 7^  ship  forced  by  the' 
ice  into  another  harbour — Summary  qf  the  month — Journal 
qf  Stptember,  and  its  Summary. 

•^^ff-  ^»t.  It  was  fine  weather:  a  party  went  for  the  remainder 

of  the  fish  and  returned  to  dinner.  The  ship  had  long  been  heeling 
to  starboard  very  inconveniently;  but  she  wan  now  cut  round,  and- 
came  upright  The  refraction  was  very  extraordinary  on  the  fol- 
lowing day;  and  the  third  was  true  summer  weather-^T*-  *^'-  -» — 
the  ice  gave  way  near  the  shij^  so  that  she  advanced  ^  ..»..  -n«.gj«. 
It  rained  heavily  on  the  next,  and  she  was  moored  by  a  haws^lo^ 
to  a  large  iceberg  outside  of  us. 

5/A.  It  was  cold  again.  The  gunpowder  was  brought  on  board, 
and  the  whale  boat  repaired.  On  the  sixth,  a  party  on  shore  observ- 
ed the  ice  in  motion  to  the  north-eastward,  for  the  first  time.  There 
was  one  large  pool;  and  the  separation  appeared  to  extend  from  the  ' 
islands  to  the  back  of  the  southern  hill.  On  Sunday,  it  had  enlarged 
considerably,  and  was  still  increasing  on  Monday,  when  the  ice  was 
also  visibly  in  motion,  though  it  did  not  open  much./'  On  the  next ' 
day,  the  larjg?  iceberg  ahead  of  us  split  and  upset;  obliging  us  to  lay 
out  a  hawi^r  in  another  place. 

10/^    The  wind  was  still  from  the  north,  but  there  was  no  fur- 
ther change  in  the  ice:  the  weathl^  proved  foggy  and  rainy.    The 
following  day  was  little  different;  but  we  hove  out  a  little  further, 
and  got  the  Krusenstem  alon^ide.'   On  the  twelfth  Uiere  tfas 
no  eminge;  but  a  party  of  the  natives  arrived,  including  four  of  our 
original  friends  and  six  strangers.    They  were  at  a  fishing  station^' 
two  days  off,  and  promised  tb^turn  in  two  more,  with  some  skins  ' 
for  sale.    The  strangers  received  the  usual  present  of  iron  hoop,  and  , 
_  were  treated  with  a  supper.  / 

1 2th.  The  party  returned,  wives,  children,  and  pJl,  to  the  amount 
of  twenty-three,  and  were  regaled  by  us  with  fi  dinner  of  fish  and 
fat.    We  purchased  some^clothing,  and  accompanied  tiiem  '^to  their 


T^'-) 


j^ 


A-,   J  I 


ll. 


<\ 


■  .fr-s 


-1 


i 


• 


'^'^5^?^*W»5"  ' 


***  *  BBOoiTD  voTAAB  OF  ouodvmr  ^ 

tente;  glad  of  even  their  society,  under  o«r^reBenf  dearth  of  varietr 
or  amuaement  <%?|f,        •  ^  »«••»•./ 

Is  there  %irjr  Uiing  that  can  convey  in  a  atfonger  manner  our  utter 
destifeution  of  all  that  can  interest  men,  whether  in  occupation  or 
•mus»i#i»;nt,  than  to  confess  that  we  found  a  rdief  from  the  self-con- 
verse of  our  own  minds- and  the  society  of  each  other,  ft-om  the 
,  eternal  wearisome  iteration  of  thermometrical  registers  and  Widii,  *| 
and  tides,  and  icaf  and  boats,  and  rigging,  ahd  eating,  in  the  rftnWS*  1 
of  th^se  greasy  gormandizing  specimens  of  humanity,     ' 
guage  we  could  scarcely  comprehend,  yet  whose  ideas  i 
heve,  more  than  sufficiently  comprehended^without  aM^r  inalM?  at , 
all.    Let  no  one  auK>po8e  that  we  had  not  felt  aJl  thySUiriw 
first,  and  during  yeprs,  afterwards,  if  I  have  f  otJH^.  »f  I  have 
passed  It  all  by,  as  if  we  had  never  felt  it    Thef^lRievils  of  cold, 
and  evils  of  hunger,  and  evils  of  toil;  and- though  ^e  did  ndt  die  nor 
lose  our  limbs,  as  men  have  done  in  those  lands,  wu  had  to  shara 
witti  the  rest  of  the  world,  those  evils  of  petty  sickness  which  are 
su^ciently  grievous  while  they  exist,  though  they  make  but  a  small 
figur^^m  the  history  of  life,  and  would  make  a  muqh  smaller  on»  in 
that  of  such  an  expedition  ni  ours.    Had  we  not  klso  undennme 
abundance  of  anxiety  and  care;  of  the  sufierings  of  disappointed 
hope;  of  more  than  all  this,  and  of  not  ksa  than  all,  those  ISdm 
After  our  far-disUnt  friends  and  our  native  land,  from  which  >ho 

.!SiM"^  ^  ^°^  '^^^ ''°"®  ""•*  *^o"e  friends  has  eVer  feen 
'  »eni^pi'And  who  more  than  we,  to  whom  .it  could  not  but  often 

r^®  5  ^"i^**  '^^  '"•8'**  neve'*  "g^n  see  those  friends  and'that 
home?  y*t  Was  there  a  pain  even  beyond  all  this?  and  that  griev- 
ance seldom  ceased.  We  werg  weary'  fqh  want  of  occupation,  for 
want  of  variety,  for  want  of  the  means  of  mental  exerUovlfor  want 
of  thought,  and  (why  should  I  not  say  it?|  for  want  ofiociety.  To- 
^*3:  wasas  yesterday,  and  as  was  to-day^so  would  Be^to-iiiorrow: 
while  If  there  was  no  variety,  as  no  hope  of  bfetter,  is  it  wonderful 
that  even  the  visits  of  barbarians  ^ere  welcome,  or  can  any  thinir 
more  strongly  show  the  nature  of  our  pleasures,  than  the  confession 

•VI'u'®!-'*®'^  ***^'ft*^"''  ®^«S  ""  ^'^  wciety  of  London  might  be 
amid  the  business  of  London  ?A    w  .      "^ 

3fio'',2li!St  7'»>«'l  »"«f  ejSH^'y*  *^«  thejWometeiifell  to 
Iju^y."  therefore  far jaHUfcf  courM  ice  remained 
unaltered,  as  may  be  easily  MH^T^It  is  dlElt  to  convey  to 
my  readers  the  impression  produced  by  this  sleepy  lind  stationary 
condition  of  a  sea  thus  impracticably  frozen.  When  the  winter  hi 
once  m^reality  set  in,  our  minds  becoihe  made  up  on  the  subject; 
.Iikethedormouse  (though  we  may  npt  sleep,  which  would  be  the 
most  desirable  condition- by  mach,)  we  wrap  ourselves  up  in  a  sort 
1^  furry  Contentment,  since  better  cannot  hi,  and  wait  for  the  Umes 
to  come:  it  was  a  far  other  thing,  to  be  ever  awake,  waiUng  to  rise 
AH  become  active,  yet  ever  to  find  that  all  natore  was  still  asleep, 


# 


\ 


\  - 


r' 


''^''-  % 


M  ARCTIC  RKOIOirS. 


/ 


Wt 


and  that  ifre  had  nothing  inOre  to  do  than  to  wish,  and  troan.  and— 
hope  as  we  beat  might  \      --  o        ' 

In  this  visit  to  the  tents,  we  fouifd  tfcat^he  wooden  he  was  once 
more  aihng,  in  some  manner  of  which  I  did  not  particularly  inquire, 
since  the  fcarpenter-doetop  was  at  hand  to  examine  into  the  Rriev«# 
a^ice,  and  was  ready  to  repair  it  as  he  best  kpew  how.  If,  in  this 
matter,  he  had  always  displayed  abundance  of  good  nature,  I  believe 
this  to  be  a  praise  Ivhich  was  ampty  deserved  bv  our  crew  in  ten- 
eral,  in  all  our  comniunications  with  these  people.  I  do  not  say 
thgt  any  of  our  men  were  not  really  kind  in  their  dispositions;  but 
certam  it  iSj^th^  ^od  nature  is  not  less  contagious  than  the  several 
evil-passions,  and  that  as  one  peevish  or  irascible  person  reftderi 
irascible  or  peevish,  a  nature  otherwise  kind  and  gentle,  or  find^im 
to  be  of  ihorose  conduct  whom  another  person  or^nother  so^ty 
esteems  as  aniong  the  agreeable  and  the  mild,  so  do  gentleness  and 
sinoothnessofdisposition  and;goTlc[53,  on  the  other  hand,  produce  f 
the  same  yKji^ct^even  wl>efe  it  may  net  actually  exist;  or,  at  the 
least,  ensure  thte  diBptay-gT  good  nature,  where  an  opposite  temper 
may  be  the  more  natural  one,  and  when  morose  or  peevish  conduct 
would  have  called  that  into  its  worst  activity.  Let  the  married  at 
least,  profit  by  a  remark  to  which  the  genUe  tempers  of  our  Esqui- 
maux have  given  rise.  They  were  not. only  kind,  but  as  Palstaff 
says  of  wit>  they  were  the  cause  of  ki^ness'ki  those  around  thebi 
I  'ncluding  ourselves;  and  perhaps,  among  ourselves,  in  one  or  two! 
who,  with  a  different  people,  would  have  dirolayed  a  far  other  char- 
acter than  they  did.  y..<  .    *•  > 

14M.  The  natives  were  not  permitW  to  come  on  board  till  after 
church,  when  the  boat  was  sent  for  them.  TMfe  wooden  lee  had 
been  bound  with  copper^  and  was  better  than  ever.  We  bartered 
and  niade  )>resents  as  usual.  They  were  to  divide  th^  party  the 
next  day^'for  the  purpose,  of  going  to  Sbagavoke  and  to  Neitchillee, 
and  proniised  to  bring  uk  venison  in  the  winter.    A  seiU  was  shot 

.^2  *'.JJL"  *  'P^"*  *°  ^•^•<='»  '^^  ^'^d  hitherto  found  no^  success. 

15M.  1  he  weather  was  very  bad,  with  an  eastvly  gale  and  rain, 
which  prevented  the  natives  from  moving.  In  coMequence,  ten  of 
them  came  on  board,  chiefly  tp  apologize  for  their  iog^  which  had 
broken  loose  and  stolen  some  of  our  fish.  The  p^?  animals  had 
been  punished  accordingly,  and  somewhat- too  Itverely  This 
,  always  appeared  to  us  the  grea^st  defect  in  the  general  domestic 
conduct  of  this  people;  and  ft  lias  h6en  equally  a  subject  for  the  re- 
marks and  censures  of  b%er  voyagett  aqd  traveller,  nmong  these 
races.     They  derive  grea|  services  from  their  dogs,  yet  never  appear 

i?i?!!l\  Ti*  '"'"''''  "*  ^"^^^y  "«*>»  and^ante  fedrlS^ 

would  be  treated  far  worse,  in  every  way,  were  it  not  for  their  in- 

hspensable  utility.    It  might  be  an  excuse,  that  the  einine  race  is 

not  hem  of  an  am,«ble  character;  yet  I  suspect  that  thia  character  is 

only  the  result  of  their  treatment,  and  that  wene  they  domesticafed 


-c~---^-  — 


7 


/ 


■'  AfliWT'Wtor'**  -' 


t  .^t^lF] 


L5SIBE 


m 


's*- 


:^; 


■%^' 


SEOOITDVOirAOV  OF  OISOOVSRT 


^  »n4  treated  with  the  kindness  which  they  experience  ftmong  oar- 
^  splviBS,  ^hey  would  be  as  attached  to  their  masten  and  companions 
;  as  our  own  are.  Yet  perhaps  I  ooriit  not  to  blame  them.  ]£igland 
does  nqttreat  its  horses  in  a  much  better  manner;  and  the  coimMoi- 
son  too  between  a  pack  of  British  fox-hounds  and  a  team  of  Enui- 
maux  dogs,  would  not  leave  much  to  boast  of  on  the  part  of  our  own 
(»untrymen.  The  m«n  were  treated  to  the  seal  for  their  dinners; 
and,  in  the  evening,  they  left  their  post,  after  having  previously  re- 
newed their  promise  of  supplying  us  with  venison  in  the  winter. 
The  ice  was  in  motion,  and  the  pool  which  had  opened  was  filled 
up  again. 

16/A.  After  a  continuance  of  the  rain,  there  was  a  heavy  fall  of 
snow,  atid  the.ground  was  all  covered  again,  as  it  had  been  in  the 
winter,  until  p  renewal  of  the  rain  dissolved  it  onc»  more.  The 
following  day  presented  a  mixture  of  fog,  snow,  andrain,  but  it  be- 
came calm  in  the  evening;  only,  howler,  that  the  same  weather 
might  return  in  the  morning.  It  was  mild  on  the  next;  but  no. 
alteration  took  place  in  the  ice  during  these  three  days.  On  the 
twentieth,  a  southerly  breeze  made  the  ice  move  in  the  offing,  but, 
coming  round  to  the  westward,  the  motion  of  this  great  body  of 
floating  masses  ceas^  once  more;  notwithstanding  which,  a  consid- 
/  erable  pool  appeared  on  each  side  of  the  point 

21*/.    There  was  some  shifting  of  the  ice  on  Sunday,  so  that  it 
was  loose  about  the  ship;  but  it  came  in  at  last  and  filled  up  the  bay 
98  before.    The  next  day  there  was  rain,  which  ended  in  sleet,  as 
the  thermometer  was  never  above  33°.    It  seemed  as  if  the  new 
winter  was  already  commencing.    It  was  cold  and  foggy  on  Tues- 
day, but  mild  on  the  foltowing^lay,  and  every  thing  remained  as  it 
had  been.    The  shooting  of  another  seal  was  the  only  variety. 
•  ;  25th.    The  weather  wa»  much  the  same,  but  the  ice  near  us  was 
in  motion.    The  whple  boat  was  thus  jatiimed  between  the  ship's 
side  and  a  large  piece  of  these  never-ending  i-ocks,  which,  floajfaway  / 
as  they  might,  only  departed  Ito  be  succeeded  by  as  bad,  or  trorse,  / 
since  the  storehouse  which  supplied  them  was  inexhaustible.    "Till  / 
the  rocks  melt  with  the  sun"  is  held  ^t  impossible  event,  in  one/ 
«f  the  songs  of  my  native  land,  to  which  some  swain  compares  thil 
durabUity  of  his  affection  for  his  beloved;  and  I  believe  we  beganat 
last  to  think  that  it  would  never  melt  those' rocks,  Which,  even  at 
■}'  r**,P?"°**  °^  **»®  y«*^»  continued  to  beset  u^  \n  every  shape 
which  their  beavtifiil,  yet  hateful  crystal  could  assuihe.    Oh!  for  a 
fire  to  ndelt  tiiese  xefMctory  masses,  was  our  hourly  wish,  even 
though  it  had  burnt  up  all  the  surrounding  region. 
^  The  injunr  which  had  thus  been  sustained  by  tiie  boat  was  socli 
that  she  could  no  longer  be  repaired  so  as  to  carry  six  oars.    We 
therefore  determined  to  construct  a  smaller  one  out  of  her,  and  she 
was  «ccordi|gly  taken  on  board.    Another  seal  was  shot    The 
thermometer  was  38°  at  midnight 


J 


W. 


"""T 


--/.  •--f.'-'-i-,,. 


P 


¥ 


nong  oaf' 

tmptnioiM 

England 

>  comptri-. 
of  Esqui-' 
f  our  own 

'  dinnera; 
ibusly  re- 
e  winter. 
WM  filled 

fy  fall  of 
Bn  in  the 
>re,  The 
but  it  be^ 

>  weather 
:;  but  no . 

On  the 
fing,  but, 

body  of 
aconsid-  . 

n  that  it 
p  the  bay 

sleet,  as 
the  new 
on  Tues- 
ned  as  it  . 
iBty. 

irus  was. 
he  ship's 
loatfaway  / 
►r  tirorse^  / 
i.    "Till/ 
t,  in  one/ 
>are8..thil 
I  begao^^ 

even  at 
ry  shape 
>h!  for  a 
ish,  eren 

^as  sucli 

irs.    We 

and  she 

ot    The 


'■•*... 


TO  THE  ARCTIC  KEGIOirs; 


.»i'«-<M|t.  ^tM'o- 


S59 


then  w^7n  ?«ii/T  *  PTfKe  was  practicable.    The  ship  was 
done,  we  «ot  under  8ail,%ut,  unfortunately  c^yine  J^av  tii^miZ 

-  \^Ji9th.    Early  in  the  mofning  the  rudder  wm  n>no.*r<»i   ««j  *u 
wmd  remaine/st^y  and  stroSg at  ^^'ZiZoS^'^t    U 

«oi^y»iiree.  We  cast  off,  therefore,  soon  after  four  ah  wJA  . 
i^rfed  topsail,  stood  for  the  islands  through  wLtmn^^iJ^ 

to's;.^:^rth''we:;^'iS'  "•^^'^  -^"^  tr^-^'Si  -^^  snsi  i„l 

eastward  of  them;  after  which,  shifting  to  the  north  with  •  »». 
squall.  It  brought  the  ice  down  along'^he  north  SokwJ  we« 
therefore  obhged  to  ply  to  windward,  in  wWch  we  diriv^  ™f^ 

ZS^^T/"""^^*^*^''-  Atnineitticl^^^^^rtSe 
north-west,  and  we  were  Boon  close  in  shore,  after  havi^Jlm  four 

We  had  passed  two  bay«,  and  two  remarkable  rocks  wh«n   .* 
.  We  Serefore  warped  to  the  he«J  of  this  new  harbour,  where  a 


1 


t  . 
t 

t- 
1 
i 


.V;  ■' 


.^' 


.   I 


V*-, 


i  'fi 


/\ 


/ 


Mo 


saoovD  vo¥Affa  or  mwovnT' 


!.''• 


iuijil  the-thermometer  wu 
Boath,  and*  back  again, 
ed.  From  the  ihore,  the' 
as  far  as  Andrew  Roaa 
We  found  the  latitude<of 


■mail  ri"^  entered,  and  immediatdjr  made  fiuifl  to  the  shor*^  with 
two.  hawsers.  '  No  sooner,  however,  bad  w<b  done  Uiis,  than  a 
violent  gale  came  on  from  t;he  north,  with  a  heavy  fall  of  snow, 
which  compelled  us  to  carry  out  more  hawserf  We  here  saw  the 
ice  passing  to  the  souUi-west  with  considerable  rapidity,  and^  had 
occasion  to  be  very  thankful  that  we  were  so  secure.  Under. this 
&|ling,  the  hard  labour  which  every  one  had  undergone  was  soon 
io^jotten. 

SOth.    It  was  very  cold  in  the  momin 
but  340.    The  wind  shifbd  from  north 
carrying  out  some  new  ice  which  had  foi 
passage  was  see'n  to  be  clear,  at  eleven 
island,  but  the  wind  was  right  against  us. 

this  harbour  to  be  1(3P  18'  11";  and.  On  ekamining  the  land  further, 
I  found  tliat  the  inlet  to  the  north  of  the  passage  apm|^^ed  within 
a  mile  of  us,  while  theintermedjiite  spaed  was  oceuMT  by  a  chain 
of  three  lakes  nearly  filling  a  sort  of' valley  ia:  it,;  .^is  cape  was 
therefore  a  kind  of  peninsula.  From  one  of  ^l^t^nothing  was 
visible  to  the  northward  but  on^  vast  sheet  of  fee,  prened  up  into 
hummocks,  extending  round  to  th^  western  bay,  and  completely 
Mocking  lip  our  late  harbour.  It  seemed  1  therefore  a^  if  we  had  just 
got  out  of  it  hi  time,  whether  it  should  bel  our  fate  t^  get  any  further 
or  not  •■•.'-   j  '  !■■■■■,'       ■•> 

Slat.  The  wind  fell,  and  we  went  on  ihore  to  esiiraine  the  state 
of  things  in  the  strait;  when  we  found  ev^ry  tiling  blfocked  up  with 
ice:  it  was  impassable.  We  shot  two  hu«|,  and  found  tkeqi  already 
in  their  winter  dress.  Round  the  ship>  thei  bay'ice  was  tiiioublesome, 
bat  no  heavy  pieces  came  in.  The  wind  then  camja  to  the  ■oiith- 
west,  and  we  Bauled  further  otit,  in  ease  of  a  favourable  change. 
The  month  of  August  was  ended,  and  we  had  sailed  four  miles. 

It  had  been  as  unpromising  a  month  as  ijt  had 
one.  The  mean  temperature  was  lower  than  in  the 
gust;  the  snow  remained  longer  on  the  ground,  kqi 
animals  which,  in  these  countries,  migrate  to  the  noi 
«d.  The  ice  was  not 'so  much  decayed  as  it  had  _. 
the  same  period,  and  there  had  been  much  less  motii 
If  the  last  days  were  the  only  good  ones  for  our 
had  Iwought  us  four  miles,  to  the  pUoe  I  had  nam^  Mundj^har* 
boar;  in  1889.  And  here  we  were  prisoners:^  yet  tljie  prospeet  was 
not  absolutely  bad,  since  we  could  have  got  out  0 ' 
late  as  4he  fourth  df  Ootbber,-  and  such  might  be' 
•n  earlier  period.  '  ..«,^:f'-'-.  ;  ■  .  r*.-.^' ::^t«- '^^'V'^'' 
Itwas  an  unplearihgciireumstanee  to  know,'aiat 
no  men  Absolutely  sick,  aud  there  had  been  no  seurvy,.the  health  of 
our  eraw  in  ipeneral  was  not  what  it  had  been ;  as  they  had  aborprov- 
ed  that  they  were  incapable  of  bearing  fatigue,  and  especially  the 
travelling  among  the  iee. 


an  anxtOHS 
ing  Au- 
fewer  M  the 
had  appear* 
I  last  year  at 
^n  among  it 
rarpMe,  they 
Mund)  ' 

It  last  year,  as 

f'i  i  1 .,  '.y  i'"- 1 
liougb  we  had 


.■■-T-: 


TO  THS  ABCTIO  BEOIONI. 


361 


shor^  with 
111,  than  • 

1   of  BDOW, 

re  nw  the 
|r,  and^had 
[Jnder.'this 
I  was  soon 

ometer  was 
tack  again, 
B  shore,  the' 
irew  Ross 
ilatitude«f 
nd  further, 
lied  within 
}y  a  chain 
I  cape  was 
>thing  was 
sd  up  into 
completely 
ire  had  just 
my  furUier 

le  the  state 
sd  up  with 
iqi  already 
Bublesome, 
the  aoiith- 
le  ehange. 
miles., 
m  anxioas  ', 
ceding  Au- 
rar  M  the 
ad  appear* 
istyearat 
nong  it< 
pose,  they 
undjiihar- 
ispeet  was 
t  year,  as 
sagajp  at 

{b  we  had 
i  health  of 
alsaproir- 
seiaUythe 


liearti 


sa J'''1  W ffc*  •*""  '"°"*» °°.*!!®  "***?*'  *°  "»» ^  "eed  scarcely 
say.     1  lear  that  this  meagre  journal  bears  but  too  evident  marks  of 

nalfst  d^mX  J^T"  *'""  ^^^  f  "^Tr"!:.  ^"'  ""^'^  ""  the  jour- 
naiist  do,  mo^  than  the  navigator?    If  this  was  a  durance  of  frw 

tlT'rih''  °^  ^'"'*  variety,  even  the.,e  had  norn^^ough" 
to  mark  a  ditference  among  them,  nothing;  to  attract  attention  or  ix- 

and  IhTtL  J  ifT'^T  °^:,'^'?  ^''•"S  ^^'g*^^^  «"»  ^«  spirits, 
ZtJ      r^P  'tself  flagged  under  the  want  of  excitement;  while 

tlTJ^r  ^^'"^J'^^^  P''°jed  but  a  wearisome  iteration  of  what 
hli  ?h  r"""''*'  ^u^°'^'  °"  "°  *"='=»»''^"'  «^«"  wl'en  all  was  new, 
Ininn  kI^^"  '"•"''  ^°,  '"'T"*'  '■'"'  '«*«  «'«'  there,  now  that  we  had 
f^~SiT"luP"'°"^''  *°  almost  one  spot:  and,  with  as  little  to  see 
as  renwtAin,  there  were  not  materials  from  which  any  thoueht,  keen- 

ZlTr-'';'  'T^  *'"''""^?  of  falsity  or  romance,^could  fave  coS- 
structed|in  interestmg  narrative.  On  the  land  there  was  nothing  of 
tl  3'  '°  «d"'t  °f  descriptionr^the  hills  displayed  no  chamler, 

^Ldtt  Tk  "I"'^  P^''^'^^  °^  *"y'  """^  the  lakes  and  rivers 
were  WJthout  beauty      Vegetation  there  was  hardly  any,  and  trees 
there  v^ere  none;  while,  had  there  even  existed  a  beJuty  of  scenwt 
everyjhmg  was  suffocated  and  deformed  by  the  endless,  wearisomT 
Jmking,  unifdrm,  cold  load  of  ice  antl  snow.  On  the  ses.  ther^ 
6  variety;  for  here,  equally,  all  was  ice  during  the  far  ^ater 
^f  the  year,  and  It  was  thus  indifferent  what  was  water  and  what 
Rarely  did  the  sky  show  ought  to  replace  this  dearth  of 
.  and  variety  below;  all  the  means  of  picturesque  display  were 
ry,  and  when  we  turned  to  the  moral  picture,  what  was  it  but 
i-are  sight  of  men  whose  miserable  peculiarities  were  too  limited* 
interest  us  long,  and  whose  ideas  were  exhausted  at  almost  Ihe 
nwt  meeting.     Who,  confined  to  such  materials  as  these,  shall  hone 
to'  produce  a  book  of  interest  and  amusement?    It  is  worse  than  the 
^ndemnation  to  «make  bricks  without  straw." 
Sept.  1st.    To-day  the  ice  set  in,  and  carried  away  one  of  our 
irfirping  lines,  obliging  us  tolet  go  the  bower  anchor;  after  which  the 
^ip  was  secured  with.n  twenty  yards  of  the  shore,  with  a  piece  of 
/ice  grounded  between  us  and  therocks,  and  with  another  at  hand  to 
r„  ?h.r  "",*''*  Tu""  '^  "^^^^"••y-   2^  There  were  rain  and  snow 
^L!^T^A  '"•*  the  passage  was  navigable;  but  we  could  not  at- 
ISV  •  IV*'*'  morning's  tide.     34.     The  wind  then  came  to 
blow  from  the  north;  and,  in  the  evening,  the  ice  in  the  strait  had 

""/A     ^Pfr^^®-    A*."'8httherewas,  gale  with  snow. 

4tA.  Nothing  could  be  done  on  Su&day,  the  ice  driving  up  and 
down  in  a  compact  mass;  so  that  it  was  in  every  sense  a  day  of  rest 
i  r  u%  «*''  continued  on  the  fifth  till  noon,  and  was  succeeded 
Sl.?»  «^1  ""^r'.^jhat  we  could  not  see  the  state  of  the  ice  in  the 
stAit  6M.  The  land  was  quite  covered  on  the  following  mornin., 
and  the  wind  and  ebb  together  brought  the  ice  into  thS  bay  wiS 
such  rapidity,  that  the  ship  could  nfot  be  warped  back  in  time,  and 

'       ''  A      :  


tht!*a 


I 


im»0^mmum^-m*.: 


362 


SECOKD  VOTAOB  Or  DISC^KBT 


we  were  obliged  to  take  to  one  of  the  grounded  masses,  fbir  fear  of 
being  carried  on  the  rocks.  Here  we  had  to  sustain  much  heavy 
pressure,  and  were  lifted  up  two  feet,  with  a  heel  to  starboard;  being 
thus  obliged  to  remain  during  four  hours  in  this  awkward  position. 
The  ice  afterwards  receding,  we  were  enabled  to  warp  up  to  the 
shore  under  cover  of  a  quay  formed  by  a  large  piece  of  an  iceberg. 
There  were  showers  of  snow  in  the  evening,  and  the  ice  was  m 
close  set  outside. 

7th.  This  day  was  moderate,  but  all  attempts  to  get  a  view  from 
the  high  land  proved  in  vain,  in  consequence  of  a  storm  of  snow. 
6th.  On  the  next,  there  being  a  northerly  wind,  the  ice  in  the 
offing  was  observed  to  drive  rapidly  to  the  southward.  9th.  It  was 
the*same  on  the  following,  with  variations  of  the  wind  and  weather, 
and  the  larger  lakes  were  almost  entirely  frozen  over,  whereas  the 
small  ones  had  escaped.  The  harbour  was  covered  with  ice  in  the 
evening,  and  the  thermometer  fell  to  22°. 

10th,  l\th,i2th,  I3th.  It  was  even  more  completely  sheeted 
with  bay  ice  on  Saturday;  and,  in  the  offing,  all  was  motionless. 
Nature  did\not  permit  Sunday  to  be  other  than  a  day  of  rest,  even 
had  we  been  inclined  to  transgress  its  laws.  On  Monday  it  blew 
^hard  from  the  ntMhward,  and^the  ice  was  worse  packed  than  ever,  if 
Uhat  could  be.  Au^Mour  hours  of  variable  wind,  it  settled  in  the 
i  north  on  thjb  next  day,  and  in  the  evening,  blew  a  gale,  with  clear 
-weather;  the  temperature,  for  the  first  time  this  month,  being  under 
20°.    The  ice  remained  unaltered; 

14th.  The  new  ice  was  thick  enoueh  io  skate  on;  but  it  was  an 
amusement  that  we  would  gladly  have  dispensed  with. 

Hyde  l*ark  is  doubtless  a  great  regale  to  those  who  can  exhibit 
their  attitudes  to  the  fair  crowds  who  nock  to  see  thatvlrhich  the  sex 
is  reputed  to  admire;  and  it  is  a  regale,  in  a  better  sen|se,  when  the 
power  of  flying  along  the  surface  of  the  glassy  ice,  as  the  fishes 
glide  through  the  water,  and  the  birds|loat  in  the  air,  with  a  velocity 
that  requires  no  exertion,  is  of  an'occurrence  so  rare,  and  is  confined 
to  so  short  a  season.  In  another  w^y,  is  this  almost  supernatural 
mode  of  motion  delightful  not  less  than  useful,' when  the  milk-maids 
of  Holland  can  thus  sail  with  their  commodities  to  a  market,  the  ri- 
vals, not  of  steam-boats  and  miil-^oaches,  but' of  the  birds  and  the 
fishes.  Yet  more  than  delightful  is  it,  to  see  the  ice  holidays  of 
•  Sweden  and  Russia,  when  all  the  world  is  in  motion,  as  well  by  land 
as  by  water,  yet  where  land  and  water  are  but  one  element;  when 
all  the  chivalry  of  each  sex,  all  thoughtless  of  any  thing  beyond  the 
present  moment,  is  absorbed  in  the  minutes  that  pass,  as  if  the  whole 
world  had  no  other  occupation  than  to  fly  from  all  care  and  thought, 
to  leave  every  thing  behind  them,  even  as  the, lightning  flashes 
through  the  regions  of  space,  heedless  of  all  that  exists  beneath-  its 
burning  career. 
;    But  yrbdJiaA  .we  to  do  with  all  this?    To  us,  th6  sight  of  ice  was 


TO  THE  ARCTIC  BEOIONS. 


363 


bir  fear  of 
ch  heavy 
rd;  being 
position. 
Jp  to  the 
n  icebere. 
!e  was  ul 

iriew  from 
of  snow, 
ice  in  the 
h.    It  was 

I  weather, 
lereas  the 
ice  in  the 

Y  sheeted 
lotionless. 
rest,  even 
y  it  blew 
an  ever,  if 
led  in  the 
with  clear 
ing  under 

it  was  an 

an  exhibit 
:h  the  sex 
when  the 
the  fishes 
a  velocity 
i  confined 
lernatural 
lilk-maids 
et,  the  li- 
s  and  the 
olidays  of 

II  by  land 
nt;  when 
iyond  the 
the  whole 
1  thought, 
ig  flashes 
ineath-  its 

)f  ice  was 


•  plague,  a  vexation,  a  torment,  an  evil,  a  matter  of  despair.  Could 
we  have  skated  the  country  over,  it  could  not  have  been  an  amuse- 
ment; for  there  was  no  object  to  gain,  no  society  to  contend  with  in 
the  race  of  fame,  no  one  to  admire  ^us,  no  rivalry,  no  encouraee- 
ment,  no  object     We  had  exercise  enough  without  this  addition: 
.  and  worst  of  all,  the  ice  which  bound  us  and  our  ship  in  fetters  of 
worse  than  iron,  which  surrounded  us,  obstructed  us,  imprisoned  us 
annoyed  us  in  evfery  possible  manner,  and  thus  haunted  and  vexed  u^ 
for  ten  months  of  the  year,  had  long  become  so  odious  to  our  sight 
that  I  doubted  if  all  the  occupation  whifch  the  skating  on  it  coyld 
have  afforded  us,  would  not  rather  have  been  a  grievance  thaii^n 
enjoyment     We  hated  its  sight,  because  we  hated  its  effects;  and 
^  hSl  belonged  to  it,  every  idea  associated  wit|^it  was 

Is  there  any  one  who  loves  the  sight  of  ice  and  snow?    I  ima- 
gme,  now,  that  I  always  doubted  Jhis:  I  am  quite  sure  of  it  at  pre- 

J!;i  hnt  T  1  **!?"6''',°^  >P\W  P^'^'y  ?"S6««*  agreeable  sensations 
in  a  hot  July  day;  4he  sight  bf  a  Swiss  glacier,  in  the  same  weather, 
IS  "refreshing'*  I  doubt  not  This  also  is  picturesque,  I  admit,  as  are 
the  frozen  summits  of  the  Alps,  liarticularly  under  the  rosy  tints  of 
a  rising  or  a  setting  sun.    These,  and  more,  are  beauties;  and  thev" 
are  not  the  less  beautiful  that  they  are,  to  some,  rarilies,  while  they 
are  also  characteristic,  and  are  portions  of  a  general  landscape,  to 
which  they  give  a  new  and  peculiar  interest,  as  they  addto  its  va- 
rieties.    In  the  present  days,  it  is  not  also  a  little  in  praise  of  ice. 
that  the  traveller  can  say,  I  have  visited  Switzerland,  1  have  scram- 
bled  across  a  glacier,  I  have  seen  the  sun  rise  on  Mont  Blanc  while 
the  earth  below_was  still  in. shade,  I  have  ascended  it,  I, even  I, 
the  fearless  and^terprising,  have  ascended  the  father  of  mountains 
yea,  even  when  the  guides  hung  back  in  fear.  Even  thus  is  ice  beau- 
tiful,  regaling,  acceptable. 

Thus,  too,  is-  snow  the  delight  of  schoolboys:  have  we  not  all 
hailed  the  falling  feathers,  because  we  should  now  make  snow  balls 
and  pelt  each  other,  and  erect  a  statute  of  heaven  knows  who,  a  co- 
lossus of  snow  to  melt  away,  like  the  palace  of  the  great  female  au-  ' 
tocrat,  before  the  sun.     Is  it  not,  too,  the  emblem  of  virgin  purity 
and  innocence,  and  might  not  much  more  be  said  in  praise  and  ad- 
miration of  snow?    It  is  an  evil,  however,  to  balance  'against  all 
this,  that  It  deforms,  all  landscape,  destroys  all  "  keeping,"  by  con- 
founding distances,  and  with  that,  proportions,  and  with  that,  too, 
more  and  worse  than  all  else,  the  harmony  of  colouring;  giving  us  a 
motley  patchwork  of  black  and  white,  in  place  of  those  sweet  gra- 
dations and  combinations  of  colour  which  nature  produces,  in  her 
summer  mood,  even  amid  the  most  deformed  and  harsh  of  land-^ 
scapes.  /  f 

These  are  the  objections  ^o  a  snow  landscape,  which  even  the  ex- 
perience of  a  day  may  furiiish:  how  much  more,  when,  for  more 


364 


SECOND  VOTAGJS  OT  DISCOVEBT 


:-^ 


than  half  the  jeir,  all  the  element  above  head  is  snow,  when  the 
sale  is  a  gale  of  snow,  the  fog  a  fog  of  snow,  when  the  sun  shines 
but  to  glitter  on  the  snow  which  is,  yet  does  not  fall,  when  the 
breath  of  the  mouth  is  snow,  when  snow  settles  on  the  hair,  the 
dress,  the  eyelashes,  where  snow  falls  around  us  and  fills  our  cham- 
bers, our  beds,  our  dishes,  should  we  open  a  door,  should  the  exter- 
nal air  get  access  to  bur  «  penetralia;*'  where  the  "  crystal  stream" 
in  which  we  must  quench  our  thirst  is  a  kettlle  of  snow  with  a  lamp 
-  of  oil,  where  our  sofas  are  of  snow,  and  our  houses  of  snow;  when 
snow  was  our  decks,  snow  our  awnings,  snow  our  observatories, 
snow  our  larders,  snow  our  salt;  and,  when  all  the  other  uses  of 
'•snow  should  be  at  last  of  no  more^vail,  our  coffins  and  Our  graven 
were  to  be  graves  and  coffins  of  snow.  ,    . 

Is  this  not  more  than  enough  of  snow  than  suffices  for  admiration? 
is  it  not  worse,  that  during  ten  ol  the  months  in  ii  year,  the  ground , 
is  snow,  and  ice,  and  <' slush;*'  that  during  the  whole  year  its  tor^ 
menting,  chilling,  odious  presence  is  ever  before  the  eye?    Who 
more  than  I  has  admired  the  glaciers  of  the  extreme  north;  who  more 
has  loved  to  contemplate  the  icebergs  sailing  froin  the  Pole -before 
the  tide  and  the  gale,  floating  along  the  ocean,   through  calm  and 
'through  storm,  like  castles  and  towers  and  mountain^,  gorgeous  in 
colouring,  and  magnificent,  if  often  capricious,  in  form;  and  have  I 
too 'not  sought  amid  the  crashing  and  the  splitting  and  the  thundering 
,  roarings  of  a  sea  of  moving  mountains,  fof  the  sublime,  and  felt  that 
nature  could  do  no, more?  In  all  this  thei^e  has  been  beauty,  horror, 
dianger,  every^^iing  that  could  excite;  they  would  have  excited  a 
pofet  even  to  the  verge  of  madness.    But  to  see,  to  have  seen,  ice 
and  snow,  to  have  felt  snow  and  ice  for  ever,  and  nothing  for  ever 
but  snow  and  ice^  during  all  the  months  of  a  year,  to  have  seen  and 
felt,  but  -uninterrupted  and  unceasing  ice  and  snow  during  all  the 
months  of  four  years,  this  it  as  that  has  made'  the  sight  of  those 
mostchiUmg  and  wearisome  objects  an  evil  which  i^  still  one  in  re- 
collection, as  if  the  remembrance  would  never  cease. 

iSth,  I6th,  nth.  There  was  now  no  open  water  to  be  seen 
from  the  hill.  The  general  temperature  was  32°,  but  it  did  not 
freeze  in  the  sun;  a  petty  consolation  indeed.  The  record^  of  the 
sixteenth  was  not  better,  and  Saturday  left  u»  as  it  had  foun^us. 
It  is  little  to  notice,  but  much  where  there  was  nothing  else  tb  re- 
mark, that  a' great  many  grouse  had  been  killed  in  the  last  week. 
In  such  a  life  as  ours,  even  the  capture  of  an  arctic  mouse  was  an 
event:  and  if  it  is  the  custom,  now,  for  navigators  to  tell  every 
thing,  to  write  witliout  materials,  what  could  we  do  bu.t  follow  the  ' 
fashion,  and  conform  to  the  established  usages? 

18/A,  1 9/A,  20th.  Sunday  exempts  me  from  any  record.  Monday 
does  not  furnish  one,  if  it  be  not  that  we  were  employed  in  sawing 
the  bay  ice  about  the  ship,  ih  case  the  outer  masses  should  set  it  in 
motion  and  annoy  us.    This  it  did  in, spite  of  our  precautioot}  since 


L^. 


TO  THK  ARCTIC  REOIOIT8. 


365 


;  for  ever 


the  heavy  ice  from  the  outside  pressed  .upon  it  during  the  followine 
day,  yet  without  doing  us  any  harm. 

2Ut,  22d.  It  blew  fresh,  with  the  wind  to  the  northward;  in  con- 
TCqufence  of  which  the  ice  drifted,  but  still  remained  stationary  at 
the  harbour's  mouth,  so  that  we  gained  nothing.  On  the  next  morn- 
ing, the  old  ice  quitted  the  bay,  but  the  new  remained;  the  sea  out- 
aide  was  covered  Vith  heavy  masses  of  the  same  interminable  mate- 
rials, and  the  land  with  snow.  We  were  in  a  v^orse  condition  than 
ever,. 

23d,  24th,  25th.  On  this  day  we  were  able  to  carry  the  ship  to 
an  edge  of  the  outer  ice,  doing  this  under  the  ghance  that  the  follow- 
ing day  might  favour  our  escape.  This,  it  did  not  choose  to  do.  There 
was  the  usual  hope,  if  wishes  can  be  called  by  this  name,  and  that 
was  all.  On  Suhday  the  pressure  of  the  outer  ice  gave  us  some  ad- 
ditional trouble,  but  there  was  no  good  to  balance  it.  For  the  pre- 
sent, we  were  «  hard  and  fast:"  I  do  not  well  know  who  expected 
any  thing  better  to  follow.  If  any.  one  was  silly  enough  to  do  this, 
he  was  disappointed. 

26M,  27th,  28th,  29th,  30th.  The  only  addition  that  a  storm  and 
drift  snow  could  make,  was  that  of  preventing  us  from  wastingtigr 
time  in  hopes  or  speculations:  there  was  nothing  to  Ije  seen,  and  noth- 
*"''™»-"iw  left  for — -— '- —  "T-i  •  .1  .  .. 
day  of  cl 

possibly  ne:  it  is  some  gain .„  „^  mwu«,c« 

with  hoping,  A  gale  of  wind  on  the  twenty-eighth  could  not  have 
mended  the  state  of  things:  but  whatever  was  the  fact,  the  snow- 
drift was  such  that  we  could  see  nothing.  In  the  last  days,  the  ther- 
monieter,  at  night,  had  ranged  between  16°  and  30**.  The  two  fol- 
lowing ones  were  as  nothing;  and  the  end  of  the  month  found  us 
exactly  in  the  same  condition,  with  our  prospects  of  freedom  be- 
coming less  every  day. 

•  I  may  indeed  say  that  they  had  ceased.  It  was  impossible  to  ex- 
pect any  further  progress  under  such  a  mass  and  weight  of  winter 
as  that  which  surrounded  us:  even  in  a  much  better  one,  it  was  not 
to  have  been  expected.  The  worst  part  of  thp  prospect,  however, 
was  the  distant  one;  it  seemed  likely  that  the  ship  would  never  be 
extricated,  and  that  we  should  be  compelled  to  abandon  her,  with  all 
that  was  on  hoard. 

But  I  believe  this  dream  was  like  many  others  which  men  form, 
under  the  usual  condition,  of  life.  We  fear  evil  evtnts,  or  rather, 
I  believe,  imagine  that  we  fear  them,  atid  then  argue  or  ,talk  our- 
selves into  the  belief  that  they  must  really  happen,  while  ouiSsoberer 
judgment,  under  the  solitude  of  our  own  thoughts  (unlAar  these 
should  be  those  of  the  naturally  despairing  or  the  hypochondriacal,) 
18  that  the  probabilities  are  in  our  favour,  that  the  evil  which  we 
imadned  ourselves  to  fear,  will  never  occur,  that  something,  we 
neither  know  nor  consider  what,  will  extricate  us  from  the  evil,  as 


f  4 


*.' 


M6 


SECOND  TOT  AGE  OP  DISOOTEBT 


R  r 


we  haTe  been  extricated  before.  Thus  did  we  fear  and  hope,  antici- 
pate  in  despair,  and  then  anticipate  a  far  other  prospect;  relief  es- 
caTO,  triumph,  the  return  to  our  own  home  in  England,  and  a  return 
to  boast  of  what  we  had  attempted,  what  we  had  suffered,  what  we 
had  feared,  what  we  had  achieved. 

The  uniformitj'  of  our  journal  gives  to  the  whole  record  of  this 
month,  a  tranquil  appeai-ance;  as  if  nothing  was  out  of  the  common 
•  °^^''',?^'*  "  '^^^^  *'**'  ''««"  •"'  'il^e  the  ship,  at  peace.  It  was  a 
Tcrydiflerent  th.ng,  however^as  our  minds  were  concerned:  but 
what  IS  a  journal  of  hourly  h*^es  and  fears,  of  fears  indeed  more 
than  hopes,  to  those  who  cannot  feel  them;  of  regrets  under  which 
we  could  not,  on  examinaUon,%lame  ourselves,  and  of  that  anxiety 
wnnsn  has  no  repose?  \        , 

-  fi.«n°  Tl  "^M  j'  °"  ""^^  occasions,  whatihey  think  and  what  they 
ftel?  Ishould  desire  other  proof  of  this  than  any  which  I  haTe  yet 
seen.  The  eTery-day  work,  and,  aboTe  aH,  when  that  every-day 
Z?nn.  ^rr'  """u ''^'  *^"''  **•*  P'-eservj^ion  of  life,  were  there 
W^  ;?'  t^  'heavier,  the  ever  down-weighing  duty  of  preserving  the 
lives  of  others,  leaves  little  time  for  any  reflections  but  those  which 
the  circumstances  demand.     I  am  much  mistaken  if  the  time  of  ac- 

™H^«  fn^  fi^""    /^-^^""^^^  °^.^^^^'  *'^°"8*'*»  "t  least  than  are  im- 

C^n  Jnoi^A"''' •" -^  uT     We  act,  because  we  must,,  and,  for 

»K  T      ^-^    ^°Pt'  "St^'y •  *  *""^  ^°'"«»'  "'hen  we  can  think  of 

N^ofi Ji®  i!  :  "•?     '^'^en.  I  suspect,  we  only  imagine  what  we  then 

fought:  but  It  matters  littler  historians  imagiSe  whatother  men 

S^^iTr  '^""Tf  r''"  ""*^"'  »°^  '"^«'y  ^'^  have  as  Zlh 

right  to  believe  that  what  we  think  now  was  whjit  we  ourselves 

.    thought  a  year  before.  "wivcai 

w?r„»!fiT!"'  *''^^ff««*  ^a»  tangible,  because  it  was  simple. 
When  we  6rst  moved  from  our  late  harbour,  every  man  Woked  Jbr- 

^  W  Jhh 'f  •  T  y^^T"'  ^"  '^^"""^  **^  England,  andHis  meet- 
'  i^^riL?*^  f  and  family;  the  depression  of  their  spirits  was 
now  proportionate.  They  Were  not  less  in  haste  perhapl  to  relate 
their  adventures,  most  of  them  having  kept  journals;  but,  at  present 
It  was  better  n6t  to  dwell  on  these  matte^by  any  premature  d^ 
cussions:  the  time  of  resolving  what  was  to  he  do/e,  and  of  labour^ 
ing  to  effect  it,  was  to  come  ere  long. 

thfZE?![?**/°i''^f'"^'^**'"«^«P*«'"hers  in  point  of  temperature 
the  present  stands  thus  to  that  of  1829  and  to  that  of  1830,  name- 

\ILS!X  r?"  °^  «.^«pes  less  than  the  first,  and  of  4  degrees 
less  than  the  last:  and  in  the  three,  the  extremes  stand  thus 

l«Qn  %hest40°plus,  lonrestn'plus. 

iIq?  y?°-    '^^P'""*  *lo-       5  plus, 

rpu  .       A   :^°-    .^®  P'""'  *Jo-       6  plus- 

The  comparison/of  the  weather  is  more  remarkable.     In  1829. 
there  were  stores,  which   broke  lip  the  ice,  and  finally  d?ave 
,  It  to  the  southward,  so  as  to  allow  us  to  navigate  this  very  sea  at  the 


c 


TO  THE  ARCTIC  REQIOITS. 


367 


lope,  antici- 
;  relief,  es* 
nd  a  return 
d,  what  we 

lord  of  this 
le  common 
^  It  was  a 
serned;  but 
deed  more 
ider  which 
lat  anxiety 

what  they 
I  have  yet 
every-day 
vere  there 
lelrving  the 
Ipse  which 
time  of  ac- 
lan  are  im- 
It,  and,  for 
in  think  of 
t  we  then 
other  men 
as  much 
!  ourselves 

as  simple. 
Soked  for- 
fhis  meet- 
pirits  was 
!  to  relate 
it  present, 
ature  dis- 
of labour- 

nperature 

to,  name- 

4  degrees 

s: 

lus. 

lus. 

lus. 

In  1S29, 

\y  d?ave 

sea  at  the 


same  date.  It  was  equally  stormy  in  1830,  with  the  same  effects: 
so  that  we  could  have  sailed  from  the  position  in  which  we  now 
were,  as  late  as  the  fifth  of  October.  But  the  present  month  had 
been  genera  ly  a  tranquil  one;  there  having  been  but  one  sale,  and 

MnTP  '^^S''\^'  ?'u^^  ^'"'^»  ^'^  ''««"  f'-'>'»  the  eastSird,  the 
blockade  of  the  land  and  th«  sea  proved  complete.     There  was  not 

With  8no°  '^''**"'  *°  >  "^^"'  ''"**  **'*'  ^''°""**  "'*'  ^^^^y  ^^^^  **««P 

Our  situation  presented  the  usual  mixture  of  good  and  evil.     It 
was  out  of.the  track  of  anfanals,  there  were  no  rfvers,  and  we  did 

ZrJfn  Ji  if "/  ^'^  •"  ^''f.  '"J""  '"l^"  "««'•  "»•  If  we  could  not 
Snlf^r  °?^^°'  ""!'  '"PP"'^'  from  J^se  sources,  neither  could  we 
from  the  natives,  as  the  interval  bet^^en  them  and  us  was  filled  with 
impassable  ice.  If  pur  aspect  was  .4  southern  one,  yet  there  were 
high  hills  to  the  southward,  which^uch  shortened  the  alread^t^ 
short  visits  of  the  sun.  The  harbodr  was  safe;  much  too  safe  indeed- 
since,  for  all  motion,  not  less  than  for  hazard  of  injury,  we  miKht 
as  well  have  been  walled  in  with  masonry  on  dry  land 

The  first  of  the  future  objects  was  to  economize  in  provisions, 
stil  more  in  fuel;  and  X)f  course,  to  take  all  possible  cfre  of  the 
health  of  the  men.  Their  spirits  .were  to  be  kept  up  as  might  best 
be;  and  the  topics  of  consolation  could  be  found,  ^hatevtr  thev 
might  seem  to  the  spveral  different  characters  which  our  crew  ^. 
eluded.  We  were  really  on  our  return,  and  had-made  some  progress- 
while  there  was  no  rd^n  why  that  should  not  be  complete  fntS 
following  year.  There^was  still  before' us  thei  PuryVremainW 
2«'lS:  nJ?  S7  ^^'^  hoats,  to  carry  us  into  Davis's"^  strait,  shou"! 
we  be  obliged  to  abandon  the  ship;  whfere  we  should  either  meet  a 
whaler,  or  reach  thp  the  Danish  settlements  in  Greenland.  IfmorS 
WM  said  than  I  here  repeat,,  the  usual  result  followed:  thehooeful 
did  not  hope  more,  and  the  despondent  continued  to  despair. 


W} 


( 


""# 


») 


^ 


368 


SECOND  vorJtoE  OF  Discoveur 


CHAPTER  XL VII. 


Journal  of  October— The  jo\irnals  of  November  and  December, 
and  the  end  of  the  year. 

^       Oc/.l*'.2«?,3rf,4M,5M,  1831.    The  ^eatherwas  foggy  and  calm 
on  Saturday,  and  was  little  different  on«,Sunday.     On  the  following 
day  the  ice  in  the  offing  was  in  motioM  and,  on  the  next,  the  ves- 
-      »el  was  cut  into  a  better  berth,  in  ten  fSfhdms  water,  while  the  rud- 
der was  unshipped.     It  came  to  blovifi^the  fifth,  and  the  outwards- 
ice  began  to  move  and  drift  to  the  AoAftWard,  showing  some  open 
water  at  daylight  about  a  mile  from  the  jship.     We  therefore  cut 
channels  in  the  new  ice,  that  we  might  be  prepared  should  it  o^q 
more;  but  it  became  calm  in  the  evening,  and  all  remained  as  before. 
6M,  Ithy  8th.     On  the  three  last  days  of  the  week  the  tempera- 
ture was  between  16°  and  1 9°;  the  weather  being  variable,  with  a 
.northerly  bre02e  on  Sat.u'rdajr,  which  caused  a  lane  and* pool  of 
water  in  the  offing;  but<^  was  all  that  oocurred  to  mark  the  first 
week  of  October.  "IP   ,. 

9M,^10M,  11 M.    SunfJiay, was  only  noticeable  by  the  thermome- 
ter fallilng  to  8",  and  by  the  disappearance  of  the  little  open  water 
of  the  preceding  day.     On  Monday  we  began  to  unbend  the  sails 
and  dismantle  the  ship.    It  would  have  been  keeping  up  the  farce 
\  of  hope  much  too- idly  to  have  delayed  this  longer.     An  observa- 

tory on  shore  wfas  therefore  commence^:  we  \vere  at  home  for  the 
remaindet-  of  another  year;  such  home  as  it  was. ' 

12M,  13th,  14M.  The  weather  was  little  noticeable  on  the  fol- 
lowing days.  The  unrigging  and  stowing  on  shore  went  on,  and  a 
chain  was  passed  twice  round  the  vessel  " a  midships."  It  was  our 
,  intention  to  sink  the  vessel,  or  rather,  as  she  must  sink  in  no  long 
time,  in  consequence  of  her  leaks,  to  provide  the  means  of  raising 
her  again,  should  any  vessel  hereafter  return  to  the  place  where  she 
•  was  thus  deposited,  in  safety  equally  from  winds,  waves,  ice,  and 
Esquimaux.  Of  the  wisdom  of  this  provision  for  the  future,  for  a 
future  as  unlikely  to  occur  as  that  of  a  season  of  spring  and  roses 
in  Boothia  Felix,  I  have  not  much  to  say;  but  it  is  probably  our 
nursery  education,  as  it  may  be  something  else,  which  induces  us  to 
do  all  that  we  can  in  prevention  of  waste,  or,  like  our  grandmothers, 
to  preserve  old  rags,  or  what  not,  because  their  turn  of  service  will 
come  round  at  some  indefinite  future,  should  we  live  on  to  that  pro- 
blematical period;  which  does  not,  1  believe,  very  often  arrive. 


1  -.<V3«^».\{ib|V»»JW.'»'i 


DecembeTf 


r  and  calm 
following 
t,  the  ves- 
le  the  rud- 
e  outward-- 
lome  open 
refore  cut 
lid  it  o^Q 
as  before, 
i  tempera- 
le,  with  a 
i  *  pool  of 
k  the  first 

bermome- 
pen  water 
1  the  sails 
the  farce 
I  observa- 
ae  for  the 

n  the  fel- 
on, and  a 
t  was  our 
a  no  long 
}f  raising 
rhere  she 
,  ice,  and 
Lire,  for  a 
and  roses 
lably  our 
ices  us  to 
[mothers, 
•vice  will 
that  pro- 
Tive. 


TO  THE  ARdTIC  RBQtOirs. 

..n?fk '"i?  *?^?®**  *!?'?  oi'e'-arion,  the  onchors  were  carri^  on  shoro. 
fcnd  the  boats  turned  bottom  upwards  on  the  ice.    Part  of  the  hous^ 

tSi!""^}!^  f  *  I'P.'  '^'^  ^J*®  "^^^^  ®"*^e*^  w'th  the  thermometer  at  10*'. 

l^rAhJl^  ;M^°°  ^^ifS^""  '*''**''■  ^^'  "S'*"  «««»  to  the  north- 
ward,  but  this  bad  now  become  a  matter  of  indifference.    Clear 

W  L^II?*  *"  T'  "^"^  *J®  '^.'"°-  '*  ^°«  ^®*7  ^e'^'n  that  we  had 
now  settled  ourselves  for  the  wmter.    In  other  days  and  other  navi- 

ST^,^f^L^'^t^  T'  ^^^"  '"^'^  than  hope:  it  was  now  lonrf 
2S  L^^'^i^l  but  the  water  of  Tantalus:  yeteven  less  than  tha? 
fh^JlVT^^^  of  disappomtment  had  so  far  paralyzed  all  hope 
nnxlr^-5**  "°/  *''*'*  ^^^  P?"^  ^^  ""^'"ty  to  torment  us.    All  wV« 

S«li  if^'J'^V  r  ""^"^  '°.'=^**  "P  hy  frruptable  chains,  and  hal 
leased  equally  to  hope  or  tp  fear.  , 

fini'^Ji  ^*^"*  ^*'  vAtmh^  weather  on  the  seventeenth,  But  it  wa« 

iSk  «n^^L'^*^°'*''°"«'*  f^*^"*^*'*  by  occasional  falls  o!  sno" 
iBiA  and  19/^4  The  temperature  went  on  gradually  subsidinir  till  it 

first  fall  as  ye^to  this  part  of  the  scale.  20th.  At  this  time  SieZ 
5?n  »„5^°rth«riy  wind*  with  snow.  The  usual  worTof  33 
mp  and-Hs  wmter  arrangements  served  to  occupy  these  davs  and 
U  was  fortunate  that  there  wtfs  Work  to  dot  what  eKIaXcouU 
have  preserved  us  from  despair  ?  _ 

^^z^h&JmJimmt^fih^dafvfM  minus  2°;  and  it  was  a  verv 
SFSZ'S.VVn^  mpnti  compared  to  that  of  the  forS 
rS^^iiT^  ,  "®  foHowmg  the  lowest  was  minus  14».  23rf 
J^n^M  ^  ^W™*"re  was  but  little  higher  during  this  day, 
S^  l^r^^K *  ^f  ^"^  mmus23°;  making  the  whole  fall  60°  wift£ 
S^dtS  ,  A  few  hares  and  grouse  had  ^n  seen,  and  some  w«S 
diot,  whUe  the  track  of  a  glutton  had  been  also  observed.  PartlJ 
our  own  occupation  was  to  continue  the  survey  ofihe  present  sdoL 
whS  ^  ^"P'^'?  ^"'^  ^*'"*'  *"**  *^  *^ke  the  aWes  ofthe  hTs^; 

1  JthJ^.T?!'®  "^"^  *■***'■"?  *"*  ^''^  twenty-fifth,  and  it  blew  so  vio- 
lently as  to  tear  mto  rags  the  canyasof  our  housing,  which  had  now 
gone  through  a  Ipng  service.    We  could  not  even  XmpUo  ^Z 

pJnZ£l^u'l^''^'.''^u^'^''S  '^^  tn««  to  theTok  2^/^ 
From  the  north,  the  wind  changed  to  tho  south  on  the  followintf 
day;  and  when  we  could  look  oSt.  we  found  that  it  had  cleSSf 

5fr  nf'T'    "^V^  *?u^'^  ^'  *^«»*'°"^'*  ^^"'^We  during  SI  mnata!  - 
der  of  the  week,  with  a  temperature  about  zero;  and  the  recon- 

mirTl^^''T^  ^°"?  ^f  employment  for  the  people! 
to  r  mi,^  ^1^^'  ?^®""J^?  ;!!:«*  ^°^'  ^"t  the  th^ometer  fell 
nneTSSi.      1  ''^*"t^''  ^'^  **^»  '^n  o«  the  lakes,  somewhat 
SSS^  J^'y*  °"**:  ?°  Monday,  31«/.  it  was  remarkable  that  &« 
temperature  ranged  between  11°  minus,  and  17°  plus. 

The  summary  of  this  October  cannot  be  much,  in  detail,  and  is 

47 


• ,' 


•— --s^ 


-*^- 


'•V 


I 


^■•A-/ 


■yt.- 


m 


.^; 


^l 


SEooiro  voTil^a  or  oiaooviilr 


_ ^ 

,  of  as  little  moment  in  point  of\interest.-  Soifie  preparation*  fof 
uakmgtbe  sliip  m  spring,  had  been  made,  as  I  have  already  noticed, 
under  our  project  of  travellinff  by  larid  and  by  boats  to  the  place  of 
the  Fury's  stores.  Every  thing,  except  tflo  provisions  and  stores 
indispensable  for  our  use,  had  been  laMed;  and  the  tWo  boats  had 
been  placed  in  such  a  position  as  to  admit  of  the|  construction  of 
,«ledges  under'  them.  \  ) 

%"s  The  tdmperature  had  ranged  from  82*nlug  4  38"  minus  ;ihe 
mean  had  been  8°  plus,  and  the  extremes  Sp"  plu^nd  28  minus, 
i  he  thicjmess  of  the  sea  ice  was  found  to  be  nineteenXnches  on  the  . 
'astday  of  the  month ;  and,  of  that  on  the  lake,  twenty/wo. 
On  the  hcialth  of  the  crew  there  is  nothing  new  td  ofiMrve.    ' 
Aop.  l»j  lo  5th.  The  first  five  days  of  November/exhibited  no 
remarkable  changes,  and  there  was  work  enough  fof\  the  men,  in 
banking  up  the  ship  with  snow,  in  building  observatories,  and  in 
^  other  arrangements  similar  to  those  formerly  recorded.  The  highest 
raage  of  the  thermometer  was  plus  20«,  and  the  lowest  minra  y. 
Wh.  On  Sunday  It  fell  to  16"  minus  in  the  evening,  and  to  17°  at 
midnight    The  weather,  consequenly,  was  cold.    We  had  not  yet 
.    been  sufficiently  trained  to  the  nbw  winter.  * 

Of  this  training  to  temperatures  which  men  undergo,  I  have 
apok^n  before  ^  and  every  season  of  our  long  experience  in  this  coun. 
try  served  to  conymce  me  still  more  of  the  1^^  of  our  conclusioiA 
on  this  subject  It  is  not  my  business  to  explain  thffact  onusint 
the  reasons;  why  do  not  the  physiologists,  who  kn^  every  thSfi 
teU  us  the  cause,  give  us  at  least  a  wordy  theory,  if  they  cabdo 
more?  1  have  seen , the  same  under  all  temperatures,  in  the  West 
Indies  and  the  East;  in  Sweden,  and  here  in  the  extreme  north  of 
America,  under  the  equinoctial  Kne,  and  beyond  the  arctic  cirole. 
Jcet  1  know  not  how  to  believe  that  those  who  remigrate  from  India 
west  or  east,  to  England,  endure  the  first  winter  better  than  the 
second,  that  they  havf  been  so  thoroughly  heated,  as  theyimaffine. 
gby  a  few  year's  resideijce  in  the  tropical  regions,  as  to  reqi^  a 
year  s  pooling  to  make  them  sensible  of  a  lower  temperatui^  But 
words  perform  ffreater  wonders  than  this:  it  has  been  oncd  so  said, 
they  have  heard  it,  and  they  believe,  as  men  believe  in  ghosts  and 
much  more,  because  their  nurses  have  so  taught  them. 

m  to  12th.  The  week  that  foUowed  proceeded  in  a  very  uniform 
and  umnterestiMf  manner.  The  weather  was,  on  the  whole,  mUd, 
compared  with  Sunday,  and  though  variable,  was,  for  the  most  part! 
fine.  Yet  the  thermometer  reached  minus  19»  on  Monday.  After  ' 
thi^,it  went  on  rising  till  the  tenth,  when  it  came  up  to  plus  17"  at 
midmght,  ending  on  Saturday  night  at  7%  aiter  having  faUen  to 
mmus  2°  at  midday.  The  usual  labour,  observaUons,  exercise,  and 
shooting,  went  on,  and  we  were  in  need  dt  them  all. 

l»*^tio  19<A.  There  is  not  a  novelty  to  mark  the  days  onwanis 
from  Sunday  till  the  following  Saturday.     The  character  of  the 


«i" 


.-*<;:  ., 


m 


TO  THB  AROTIO  RKOIOITS. 


871 


laratloD*  for 
ady  noticedt 
the  place  of 
ana  stores 
>  boats  had 
itruetion  of 

minus  ;ihe 
d  38  miaus. 
iches  on  the  . 

NO. 

srve.  '  . 
xhibited  qo 
Ae  men,  in 
ries,  and  iq^ 
rhe  highest 
It  minus  3^. 
id  to  170  at 
had  not  yet 

go,  I  have 
athisoouq- 
soncliuionk 
storiusigtt 
verythi^ 
hey  can  do 
n  the  West 
le  north  of 
Btic  circle, 
from  India, 
r  than  the 
yima^fine, 
»  require  a 
ture.  But 
cd8osaid» 
ghosts  and 

ry  uniform 
hole,  mild, 
most  part,  , 
ly.  After  " 
plus  17**  at 
;  fallen  to 
srcise,  and 

I  onwards 
ter  of  the 


weather  changed  many  times  in  every  dav,  but  it  was  never  very 
bad.  On  the  whole,,  it  was  becoming  colder,  and  the  lowest  mii 
.  night  thermometer  was  20°  minus:  on  the  Thursday  it  was  as  high 
as  plus  17".  The  deck  was  cii^'ered  with  snow  in  the  usual  manner, 
for  our  protection  during  the  remainder  of  the  winter,  which  was 
now  fully  arrived.  _ 

20th  to  261*.  If  there  was  any  difibrence  between  this' week  and 
the  preceding^  it  was  that  it  felt  colder,  on  account  of  frequent  north- 
erly breezes,  though  the  thermometer  did  not  once  fall  so  low;  hav- 
ing never' been  beyond  18°,  while  not  often  lower  than  7°  or  8° 
'  minus.  The  first  threatening  of  scurvy  in  one  of  the  men  wa^ 
observed  at  this  time?  and  on  this  subject  I  am  bound  to  offer  a  few 
remarks. 

Every  reader  of  voyages  well  knows  what  defeats  of  naiVal  expp- 
ditions  have  beeh  often  the  result  of  this  twrific  disease,  how  often 
the  crews  of  ships  have  not  merely  been  rendered  ^ineffective,  but 
have  been  destroyed  by  it;  facts  for  which  it  would  suffice  to  refer 
to  Lord  Anson's  voyage.  It  is  known  too,  that  it.  has  raged  with 
peculiar  severity  in  the  crews  of  vessels  navigatii^  these  northern 
dimates;  and  not  only  in  men  at  sea,  but  among  t^ose  who  had  win- 
tered on  shore;  as  is  amply  testified  by  the  destruction  of  the  Dutch 
crew  so  often  narrated. 

For  this  latter  fact,  the  nature  of  the  food  and  thg  country  will 
account  to  medical  men,  so  that  I  need  nqt  dwelfSnthe  particulars. 
It  is  true  that  the  greater  precautions,  of  various  kinds,  |Which  have 
been  adopted  in  both  the  naval  and  mercantile  service  since  the  time 
of  Cook,  have  most  materially  diminished  this  evil ;  yet  we  were 
idaced  in  circumstances  that  every  modren  precaution  and  all  our^ 
attentions  could  not  have  been  expected  to  resist,  and  to  resist  for 
so  long  a  period. 

Notwithstanding  all  this,  the  event  that  I  hi^ve  just  recorded  was 
the  first  real  appearance  of  this  droadful  scourge ;  as  the  subsequent 
record  of  this  vdyage,.even4o  the  moment  of  quitting  this  country 
after  foiiV  years  of  dbtention,  and  during  the  whole  of  what  I  may 
almost  callone  long  winter,  unparalleled,  too,  for  its  seventy,  shows 
that  it  never  very  seriously  assailed  our  people,  and,  almost  without 
exception,  was  the  cause  of  serious  injury„to  none,      vf 

That  this  was  the  consequence  of  care,  cannot  bedoubted:t  how 
far  the  effect  is  due  to  the  commander  of  the  expeditiou,  It^oes  not 
become  me  to  say ;  but  care  there  was,  and  on  the  part  of  more  than 
myself,  or  the  good  results  in  question  could  never  have  been.  It 
must  be  seen,  in  the  first  pliace,  that  we  were  entirely  cut  off  from 
one  of  the  best  knoWn  and  most  effective  means  of  prevention  and 
remedy;  since  the  country  produced  no  vegetable  food,  nor  could 
our  men  learn  the  use  of  fish  oil,  which  I  believe  to  be  one  of  the 
antiscorbutics  provided  by  nature  for  the  inhabitants  of  these  frozen 
oUmates.    It  is  not  less  true  that  a  large  proportion  of  our  provisions 


1 

, 

'i 

'    -"  ■  -  ■ 

l 

.-15 

* 

■d 

•■ 

'i 

■/ 

^ 


r 


«i- 


■^-  I 


I  ntviinM 


*<^ 


S73 


SEOOtTA  VOrKAOB  QF  DISCOVERY 


}'• 


I.  i 


/ 


consisted  m  the  usual  sdlt  meat,  of  pork  at  least;  but  if  we  had  an 
occasional  resource  in  the  fish  which*  we  found  in  the  couSnr!  and 

«*^f  P[e«e>^%ed  «eat,nhe  vinegar,  the  sugar,  and  the  lem^ 
of  our  stores,  I  doubt  if  these,  which  have  so  often  proved  of  smaS 
efficacy,  would  have  maintained  our  men  in  health  durinTso  lon/a 
period,  and  m  such  a  climate.  "^       '  * 

'      There  was  more  wanted;  and  that  we  obtained  by  those  atteni 
tions  which  I  must  no  w  point  out,  for  the  benefit  of  future  flavigators 

-ill  the  same  country.  The  southern  whalers  assert  that  as  a  want 
of  water  IS  onex)f  the  most  efficient  causes  of  scurvy,  so  they  find  a 

^T^^^Tt^-"^  *'''' -^^  ^^^  '''T'^^  ^^t''^"*  «ti"*^  1°  this  matter 
we  imitated  their  practice,  though  obliged  for  the  most  part  to 

obtam  our  own  water  through  artificial  heat.  With  the  same  vie^ 
we  never  suffered  our  peopfe  to  remain  in  their  wet  cothes,  as  ^ 
contmace  in  warming  their  habitation  between  decks,  and  in  carnT 
ing  off  the  steam  generated  m  it,  maintained  this  place  in  a  state  of 
perpetual  comfort  and  dryness.    '\-  »"ii«u* 

Rarely,  in  addition,  were  they  ever  so  long  exposed  to  cold  as  td 

SS.r  T'^^/'T  •*'  'r'^'"^  ^«"'  ««  ^e.diS.  how  this  sour^ 
of  debihly  tends  to  the  production  of  the  disease  in  question.  Beidu 
further,  too,  aware  of  the  value  of  exercise  for  the^me  purple,  5 
was  my  object  to  find  them  constant  employment,  or  wh^  tCsWas 
impossible,  from  the  attenUon  paid  to  the  Sundays,  and  from  the 
nature  of  the  weather,  they  were  commanded  to  walk,  for  a  certain 
number  of  hours  on  the  shore  or  if  this  was  impracticable,  on  our 
well>roofed  and  sheliercd  deck.  .  »"""w 

Further  than  all  this,  and  I,may  name  it  as  the  last  precaution, 
fteir  mmds  were  never  suffered  to  brood  over  evils  or  to  sink  into 
despair,  as  far  as  it  was  in  our  power  to  prevent  this:  whUe  I  may 

r^'ii   J  J  *1?  ^^^  ^**-'*''  ^"''  ®^^'"^*  ^^''^  ^^'g'jly  successful.    Yet  k 
u  "1  add»<he  restrictions  at  first  in  the  Use  of  spirits,  and  at  lenirth 

Sfi  ^"f  K^fif'lTr"*  **'  ^"  ^"'^^  '^"^  pernicious  stimulus,  I  hIJo 
little  doubt  that  I  thus  cut  off  one  of  the  causes,  which,  if  it  may  not 
absolutely  generate  scurvy,  materially  assists  othei»  in  the  prwiuo 
iion  of  that  disease.  '  •     .  r  "«uu 

Sucb  is  what  I  have  thought  it  useful  to  state  on  this  subject  •  if 
they  were  not  the  true  causes  of  our  exemption,  they  are  aU  that 
now  oc6ur  to  me;  but  though  I  should  have  made  any  mistake  in 
this  matter,  I  can  s{^ll  appeal  to  the  resOlt,  We  were  almost  enUnsly 
free  from  this  disease  for  a  very  long  period ;  we  suffered  but  lituX 
*7if "/rir®  worst;  and  I  brought  back  to,  England  a  crew  which,  as 
it  had  litUe  cause  of  complaint  when  in  this  hbrrible  climate,  has  now 
no  reason  to  repent  of  any  of  the  rigours  which  it  braved,  or  the 
sufibrmg^  which  it  endured.  .  "   u.., 

27*A  to'aoM.  The  thermometer  being  now  20»  minus  with  a  fresh 
breeze,  the  men  w«re  unable  to  walk  after  divine  service.  On 
Monday  it  fell  to  80%  and  on  Tuesday  to  40«  in  jffe^ddle  of  the 


k  ,  r-f. 


•■"•^i 


TO  THE  ARCTIC  REaioirs. 

niM^inches.  ^°®  ®°°  «'  ^^  month  was  two  feet 

With  the  exception  of  a  fpw  \.„»  •*  l  j  • 
'        sky  beinff  very  generally  cloudv^H  ^^'*  *  '""'^  ™onth,  the 

now  weff  known  to  evefy  ohe  coX^T'^V  I  '^'^^  ^^ch,  m  is 
•  "sufficient  to  accountZ  this  st^tXf  X.'"''^  "^^"^T^  of  he«t, 
abundant  experience  to  make  i^  dreX     •  ?f    ?^^  *^^'  ^n^eed 
while  we  knVw  well  (ap^t  frl  aSX  t"^  ,  °.°'*  ^'«"  ^^^^ '  and 

-      P;7f  TP^°^"g*h^"dVat^nof  Uo^  that  we  might 

and  cloudy  one,  even  to  long  for  he     ii       ^  u-i"®  ^»  overclst 

'  ^^"^o'l;"  dear  England,  sHK^ofteicS^^^^^^  of 

covered  us  (whenfat  least,  they  did  n'  nl  f  *"!  ""^g^etthe  fogs  that  ^ 
W,ng,  as  well  as  feelin«VtZt  lA^^^^^^  ' 

tions  which  I  need  not  here  relate  3  ilr  ^T  T"  ^^^^^  ^^^ep^ 

The  mean  temperature  fo7Sus'2hf^^i°  ^^^P  "'  ^»rm- 
than  that  of  last  November  and  S  K""!u**  °"*  *°  ^  »°  higher 
month  in  182,9rbut  it  e^deL^h a  seifrh^ Z^*  '^^'^^  ^^  »ml    ' 
them.  ^^T^tJ"  far  exceeding  either  of 

al]Jr':f^^^^^^  thedeck,  byplacin. 

the  heatbeTow  from  meUfng  ?t    ^tS  In^'  ^'?!"^  P^^^"*^ 
by  experience,"  had  been  made  in  th«  In/  ""pvemeWs,  suggested 

Our  allowance  of  K  had  J^en™ ''T"^^^^ 
Was  that  of  salt  meat:  n^StS.rwhT.'^  '4'=«^'  MsoT 
the  use  of  spruce  beer  si^-  ml„    '         ?  .^"'^h  'as*  a  iferation  and 

which.  How^verwaraTdVm^aS*  ^'^^f'i^itht"^^^^ 
pondency  seemed  to  have  ceased  ^'^"''"-J^'f^    Their  dei      - 

rPoP7,et^S^^i^^^  i„  eonse, 

bad  proceeded.    The  sport  S8hore&!!"1-^'''u'  ^"^»  «nd  others 
anucipated,  inclufling  hVres/groui^^  '^o  M 

Dec.  1,/  and  2«r  The  firit  da^'of  ,h7     "^  partridges,     j 
with  a  temperature  of  41°  Ss-tudth^fT"-^  was  very^cold; 

a«f.  At  six  on  the  momingr/h^  ,JiS  if  h*''^'"?  ^**  "''^  ^"fer.  '       . 
the  north;  threatninff  once  mnri  L^    ."  '''®^  a  heavy  gale  from 
secured  with  somTfiSlty    Xi^or*?^^/"''.^^^^'  ^^'^h  wS 
with  a  heavy  drift  ,  and  the  resuuta?  as  ,-  ^^  ''  ™  ''^  ^or^ 

following  day.  with^teVe^i^^^^  the  evening^/'S  ' 

£^4  -ToJ^X^ttgh-  ^fe  '  -nd^  a  hlU.  ^ 
the  ann  ,  upper  limb,  pasaine  in  aiimn.k  .^k  7^?  »«T>ri«l  to  we    / 

•V ^ « 


1 


"A 


SBCOWD  VOTAOB  OF  DISOOVBRT 


tfSd,  thijotwh  any  refiraction.  ^th  to  IQtk.  tTnder  the  same  extraor' 
dinarv  refractive  power  in  the  atmosphere,  the  island^  were  also 
raised  fiir  higher  than  I  had  ever  seen  them.  There  was  nothing 
interesting  hence  onwards  till  Saturday.  The  wind  was  fron^aU  ^ 
quarteifs  alternately,  and  the  lowest  mark  of  the  thermpmf^ter, 
being  ^n  the  last  of  the  week^  was  22°  minus. 

11/Ato  17IA.  Sunday  came  in  with  a  strong  northerljrffalei,  which, 
with  a  temperature  of  24**  minus,  made  it  very  cold.  (%  Monday 
at  noon  it  moderated,  so  that  the  next  day  was  calm  and  clear; 
but  another  gale  sprung  up  on  the  fourteenth,  Mowing  bard  during 
the  two  following  days,  but  ending  in  a;  calm  and  clear  Saturday. 
The  temperature  varied  during  the  week  between  2°  and  81**^ 
minus. 

I8th  to  34f  A.  It  being  calm  and  clear  on  iSunday,  the  temperature 
ftU  to  85**.  It  continued  fine  till  the  twentieth  at  night,  when  it  blew 
a  stjbnn,  and  the  thermometer  rose  to  8°;  while  that  gale,  with  sfr. 
vere  drift  snow,  mcreased  tUl  mid-day  on  the  twenty-first,  subnding 
to  a  calm  in  the  evening.  '  Thus  it  continued  till  the  twenty«fourth, 
the/ thermometer  having  ranged  between  24"  and  86". 
:  86^  Chri8tma8.day  was  made  a  holiday  in  all  senses.  In  the 
cspin  dinner,  the  only  fact  worth  remarking  was,  a  round  of  beef 
iHiich  had  been  in  the  Furjr's  stores  for  dght  years,  and  wluch,  with 
•ome  veal  and  some  vegetables,  was  as  goodf^  the  day  on  which 
it  was  cooked.  5^- 

'  fl  know  not  whether  the  preservation  of  this  ment  thus  secnred, 
b^jinterminable  or  not;  but  what  we  brought  home  is  now,  1885,  as 

Dd  as  \fhen  it  went  out  from  the  hands  of  the  maker,  or  whaiteveit 

his  designation,  the  Gastronome  for  eternity  m  short,  in  1628. 

it  can  be  kept  so  long  without  the  slightest  alteration,  without 
lEven  the  diminution  of  navour  in  such  things  as  hare  soup  Wnd 
i  of  carrots,  why  may  it  not  endure  for  ever,  simposii^ji^t'^t'^ 

Sis  were  themselves  perdurable  t  Often  have  I  imagmed  what 
ihoi^d  have  felt  had  Mr.  Appert's  contrivance  j^f  which, 
y6t,  neither  he  nor  his  successors  are  the  real  discoverers), 
been  known  to  Rome,  could  we  have  dug  out  of  Herculaneum  or 
Pompeii  one  of  the  Suppers  of  LocuUus  or  the  dishes  of  NasidieaUs; 
the  "  fkt  paps  of  a  sow,'Va  boar  with  the  one  half  roasted  and  the 
other  boiled,  or  a  mursena  fattened  on  Syrian  slaves;  or,  as  might 
have  haf^ned,  a  box  of  sauces  prepared,  not  by  Mr.  Borgess,  out 
by  the  very  hands  of  Ajncius  himself.  How  much  more  would 
•Btrauariasr  and  they  even  more  than  Kitchener  or  Ude,havetri- 
wnpned  at  finding  a  dish  from  the  tinlrt  of  Amenophis  or  CephrMies, 
in  ^  tombs  of  the  PlMuraohs;  have  regaled  over  potted  damties  of 
four  thousand  years'  standing  and  hav^  joyed  in  writiiu;  books  on 
the  cookery  of  the  Shepherd  kings,  or  of  lum  who  was  drowned  in 
the  Red  Ma.  Is  it  possible  that  diis  may  yet  be,  some  -thousand 
yean  benee,  that  the  ever-during  frost  or  Boothia  Felix  may  pre* 


•  >.  ■ 


J~ 


TO  xSi  AROnc    REOIOffS. 


B  extraor' 
ivere  also 
s  nothine 
i  froiyafl  " 
tnpm<^ter, 

iki,\<rhich, 
Monday 

nd  clear; 

rd  during 

Satiirday. 
and  81*" 

[nperature 
ten  it  blew 
i,  with  sfr> 
subsiding 
)ty«fourth, 

IS.  Inthe 
ad  of  beef 
tdch,  with 
on  which 

B  secured, 
r,  1895,  as 
whaitOTev 
t,  in  18S& 
n,  without 
soup  Wnd 
^at^ 
;med  what 
o(  which, 
icoverers), 
laneum  or 
asidieniis ; 
d  and  the 
,  as  miffht 
irgess,  put 
ore  would 
I,  havetri- 
IlephrMies, 
damtiesof 
I  books  on 
rowned  in 
•thousand 
may  pte> 


87d 


1% 


2|6  reign  of  George  tKourthTH^^  ?  London  during 

be  for  the  antiquaSes  of^Sia  Pdff^i^H  J^  ''^  T^  »  «*»? 
^^^h  fch  discoveries  slTKriS.^**  ^'^^^  *^  ^^^  ^ 

bu?Xe  ks'  St^'of  oE!";^  *?  "°*^  ^"  '^'  "«»t  three  davs, 
not  bo  replSS^d  SeTfn^^™"'  *?^*°^'  «^c«  *ey  c3 
The  TemSS7t^mtnAiTJ''V^  our  future  depeJdencS 
ended  with  the  thlrmr&rijo"*^"^^^^^^  ^^^'^  *.°1^""'  ^^  ^ 
tmore  than  ST.  On  cu?tinl  i:  •  *  "*  ^H^^l"  ^^^  »*  h«<i  not  been 
proved  t6 be fo^r^tJuKi";"! 2^%^^''  ^*^' ^*?  *i<^'S 

This  month  of  Dece^r  Smen<5^  wSh'^r^'*  ^'»  ^^'^F^' 
but  a  change  took  placeL  STtS^d  ^/-L^Sf!!:?"'^  ^«n  J 
we  e^rienced,  4  tK  weeks  such  I  ^  thei»w  nioon ;  and 

^^wasve^g^ArSattSTch^^^^ 

be^XTiScirk-'oneS^n^ati^  ^«»«tVK  the  scurvy  had 
complicWn  of  disorders,  was  no?S'rP?^":*^^^^  afflicted  iith  a 

The  comparative  i?ew  of  Z  TW  '^il*^  1°  ?^«  ^^^y  'ong. 
ceding^SS,  marheS;^i^^f^  o^  this  and  ie  t5o  p«^ 

l^ffighest,  lowest,  and  ^ean  temperature.^^ 

1831  Ditto  -  /  ■  ■    +  «-47-r^90.a4 

-     —8—48— S!ao» 


<       .. 


t  "1 


*^ 

1 

f 

\ 

{   J 

\    ' 

■1 


k-.ti 


:t,.. 


* 

\ 

j^ 

^ 

N 

• 

^ 

»-t 

•s 

M 

*4 

7 

1 :  -' 

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^**  SEOOKD  VOTAOS  OF  DISCOVERT   ' 

■'■'■.--■  h 

.  ;  *  ^  -.,.■■  ■ 

CHAPTER  XLVm. 

'^  Journals  f>f  January^  February,  and  March. 

t       1832.  Jan.  Ist  to  5/A.  Sunday  being  past,  we  prepared  our  min^ 
jng  tools  for  the  purpose  of  making  a  place  of  concealment  for  our 
stores.    A  very  brilliant  meteor,  as  large  as  the  moon,  was  seen^^ 
finally  splitting  into  sparks,  and  illuminating  the  wKole  valley.    Th©   ' 
thermometer  fell  (P  36°  on  Tuesday,  and  to  40°  on  the  followinfc^ 
.      day;  rising  again  but  to  reach  the  same  point  on  the  next,  when 

there  was  a  brilliant  aurora  of  a  golden  colour,  passing  through  the 
north  star.  I  repeated  the  experiment  formerly  made  with  the  dif- 
ferential thermometer,  to  as  little  purpose. 

/  6/A  to8/A.  The  thermometer  came  down  to  46"»  but,  being  calm,  ' 
it  was  not  very  cold:  it  is  certain*' also  that  we  had  now  resumed 
our  winter  standard  of  sensation  on  this  subject.    The  aurora  was 
again  ieen  on  Saturday ;  and  Sunday  passed  as  usual.    J^he  invalid 
Dixon  was  considered  as  rapidly  becoming  worse. 
J  9tk  to  14(A.   Till  the  thirteenth,  the  weather  was  variable,  but 

tranquil,  and  often  calm.    The  temperature  rose  from  46*'  as  far  as 

12°.  On  the  tenth,  the  long-ailing  James  Dixon  died.  A  heavy  fall  of 
snow,  with  a  storm  from  the  north-westward,  brought  another  week 
•   to  a  dose.    The  same  men  who  had  been  employed,whenever  it 
was  possibleon  the  tunnel,  had  also  prepared  the  grave  for  ourpatient 
15/Ato21rf.   Itwasnecessarytopostpone  the  funeral  on  account 
of  the  weather:  but  a  sermon  appropriate  to  the  subject  was  select- 
ed for  this  Sunday.    On  the  following  morning  the  interment  took 
place  with  the  usual  solemnities.    T^he  two  next  days  were  mild, 
andth&workofthe  tunnel  went  on.    Onthe  three  last  orthe  week, 
the  weather  was  variable,  and  the  thermometer  from  26°  to  29°. 

2\H  to  28/^  It  begin  however  to  blow  fresh  <>n  Saturdfiy  night, 
and  continued  with  great  severity  all  this  ^ay  and  thq  followmg.  •" 
On  Tuesdinr  it  fell  a  Tittle  at  nbon,  but  was  as  violent  as  ever  in  the 
evening.  In  Spite  of  the  drift,  the  sun  was  seen  on  this  day,  b^it  the  ' 
^jBtoim  continued  on  the  twenty-fifth,  and  did  not  subside  tilf  the  noon 
of  the  fdlowing  day,  when  it  was  clear  and  cahii.  The  last  twd 
days  of  the  week  were  moderate^  and  the  thermometer  ended  on 
Saturday  night  at  33°     . 

29iA  to  31»<.  On  the  Sunday  and  Monday  the  wind  was  north,  and 

it  was  very  cold,  with  a  thermometer  at  80°.  It  varied  little  on  the 

following;  and  the  month  ended  on  the  thirty-first,  with  a  tempera- 

nre  of  26°.    Little  or  nothing  could  be  done  out  of  the  ship  on  most 

of  the  past  days,'and  onr  exercise  was  ^ually  restricted  to  the  deck. 

Dunng  three  out  of  the  weeks  of  this' month  there  was  windy  or 

t         stormy  weather,  which  made  the  cold  severe  though  the  mean 

temperature  was  oply  two  degrees  lower  than  it  had  been  in  the 

preceding  January.    That  mean  is  27°  minus,  and  the  highest  and 

lowest  aie  minus  8°  and  minus  47°.    We  tried  to  find  some  conso- 


%   ■■;. 


'■} 


I    /■'. 


":"<  '< 


*/  '     - 


^    ■■;. 


our  mivh)i 
It  for  our' 
was  sceoy^. 
}y.    Th©' 
blloWibg^ 
it,  wh6ri.. 
ough  the 
^thedif. 

ngcalm, 
resumed 
rora  was 
e  invalid 

ble,  but 
as  far  as 
vy  fall  of 
lOTweek 
never  it 
r  patient 
account 
s  select- 
Bnttook 
re  mild, 
le  week, 

night, 
lowmg.  "^ 
r  in  tm 
Wit  the  ' 
tie  noon 
1st  tw6 
ided  on 

rth,and  • 
I  on  the 
mpera- 
»n  most 
le  deck, 
tndy  or 
9  mean 
I  in  the 
Bstand 
conso- 


,f. 


-U 


TO  THB  AROTIO  HIDOIOirS. 


Ml 


S»l 


Se^n^rSrS?"^  **'"*  ^^''  ^^  ^^""^  ^  ^^^  of  ice  by. 
The  weather  interfered  so  much  with  our  observations  that  fi,«» 
lunpunt  to  nothing;  besides  which  we  had  norrnaa  alma^aJ 
for  thepresent  vear.  Of  the  aurbra  which  is  noted  above!  Wr^ 
"  oltiJviF'^J*'"  "'r^*^^  "^'^^^  »o  an  unusual  di^ei^ 
had  Xrfo  iJS^^'liT'^  begins  to  be  yeiv  different  from  what  it 
Had  hitherfo  beeji.  -AH  were  much  enfeebled;  and  there  was  a 
good  deal  of  ailmebt  without  any  marked  diseases^  An  old  Jound 
^  S"?^.^''"  "^°  had^bjoken  out,  ^Srith  bleeding ;  and  I  knew  t«^  weU 
that  this  was  one  of  the.indications  of  scurvy.    That  aH  were  Ta 

^nsibiht^  fell  was  not  Jeast  the  victim  of  anxiety.    But  men  mist 

««  r      A^"  V^  P®  m^  began  with  a  furiqws  storm,  wWch 

rising  irom  »»  to  18  .  ,rhe  ice  was  cut  through,  and  its  thickriAM 
foun3  to  be  five  feet  and  upwwds;  ,  The  lake,^at  ?h^  ««me  & 
was  frozen  to  the  bottom.  W^^ere  sufficiently  nri«>rewbyTe 
'  ™ffiv  ;?***•  °^*''^''^iP^  but  it  seemed  destined  t4t  sheSoK 
really  our  pnson.  as  the  stormy  and  cold  weather  rendcrWitsS 

l^'!!!/^''!  •/  °  '*'°'*  ourselves  beyond  the  roof  or  deck.    It  is  not 
wonderful  if  we  were  dull.  «•    *i.wum 

fi/Ato^lKA.  A  strong  breeze,  from  the  endless  northward,  on  Sun- 
day,  became  a  gale,  lasting  during  the  two  next  days  and^t  breat 
ing  till  Wednesday;  when,  at  night,  it  at  length  fJll  calra^^nd  3w 
hennometer  sank  to  36°.  Hence  on  till  Satu?aay,it  wwsufficieS^ 
ly  fine  to  allow  the  men  to  work  at  the  tunnel,  md  Uie  swrSn 
to  take  their  walks,  though  withouf  any  succ^  sportsmen 

fcf  ®'^^<f/'  «»  »f««^n  toTteep  us  prisoners.    It  Xted  Sn 

ing.    A  stiff  breeze  on  Pnday  once  more  put  a  stop  to  all  work  for 

Se.restof  the  week;  and,  oi  Saturday  nTght,  TZ  «venXiof 

•VJinable  weather,  the'temperature  was  41°.  ^y^aja^^  oi 

19JA  and  fUM.  Sunday  was  stormy  and  cold,  and  Mondar  waa 

much  worse.    In  ^e  morning,  a  glutton  came  on  boaiJimd  CS 

o  devour  the  dogs*  meat    It  wasan  inhospitable  reception  X 

tiie  poor  serving  wretch,  but  it  was  the  firrtspecim^Tbc^ 
ture  which  we  had  been  abte  to  obtain..   Are  ATlife^  StpiSS. 

^L  *"-f Tf^  *?u*^  compared  with pur  own  pleasure  in  seelK 
skin  stufled  with  straw  and  exhibited  in  a  gbss  case?    A^thi 

twenty-first  the  men  were  able  to  workoutsiditiU  the  end  of  Friday^ 

Ti«^^.f?  '^'"^  ^'f  *  "*T  y^^'^y'  *°*»^«  ^e'e  a"  imprison^ 
^e  lowest  temperatures  dunng  the  week  had  varied  irom  84»iS 

-«??^*®^  Thethreefirst  daysfollowing  ^re  uncertain  but 
■01  bad ;  and  oh  the  tMro  working  days  some  Sut  of  ^^.^ 


X 


/ 


Ui-'t 


1/ 


f 


\ 


'■'J' 


f 


BM 


SBCONP  VOTAOB  OV  DlflOOVERT 


Tm 


ilone.    On  Saturday  the  iee  was  measured,  and  found  rather  more 
than  six  feet  thick.    It  had  increased  sixteen  inches  in  this  month, 
.which  ended  with  the  thermometer  at  38°. 

This  last  months  was  severe.  •  If  the  thermometer  did  not  range 
<«o  much  as  during  the  same  one  in  preceding  years,  the  tempera- 
ture was  more  uniformly  low,  while  the  frequent  storms  rendered 
it  also  bitterly  felu  The  mean  was  34°  minus,  and  the  extremes 
minus  12°  and  minus  44i°. 

The  thickness  of  the  ice  round  the  ship  was  such  as  to  prevent  all 
hopes  of  her  liberation,  even  though  we  should  continue  with  her, 
which  was  impossible,  from  the  state  of  our  provisions  and  that  of 
the  health  of  the  crew.  The  teaman.  Buck,  who  had  unexpectedly 
.  auifered  the  recurrence  of  his  epilepsy  with  an  unusual  degree  of 
violence,  had  become  blmd. 

I  The  carpenter  had  nearly  finished  the  sledges  for  the  boats,  and 
was  about  to  make  some  mdre  for  carrying  the'  provisions.  It  is 
a  brief  summary  for  this  month:  and'others  musttry  to  imagine 
what  we  felt,  and  what  they  can  never  see.  "• 

March  1st  to  10/A.  The  first  day  of  March  was  mild,  though  with 
no  great  change  of  temperature.  Thus  it  continued  till  Saturday, 
witen  the  ice  on  the  lake  vt»s  found  to  be  seven  feet  thick ;  and  the 
thermometer  at  42°.  The  fourth,  fifth,  and  sixth,  were  little  dif- 
ferent, and  the  men  could  work  outside  on  the  two  last,  thot^h  the 
thermometer  fell  to  48°.  Some  work  was  done  also  on  the  next  two 
days;  but,  on  the  ninth,  there  was  a  fresh  breeze,  subsiding  again 
©a  Saturday,  when  we  ended  not  a  very  bad  week  of  variable 
weather.    A  hare  and  some  ptarmigans  were  shot. 

nth  to  17fA:  The  men,  walkmg  after  church,  saw  the  first  tracts 
ofreindeer  which  had  been  observed  this  season,  together  with  that 
of  a  glutton.  Monday  was  very  fine,  though  the  thermometer  at 
night  was  86°.  Hence  to  the  sixteenth  we  were  all  imprisoned  by 
fltrong  north-westerly  winds,  and  it  was  not  fine  again  till  the  Sati^- 
day  evening,  with  the  thermometer  at  20°  during  the  night 

ISthto  24f A.  Sunday  was  an  indiflferent  day,  but  did  not  prevent 
the  usual  walk  after  church,  when  the  tracts  of  a  white  bear  were 
Men,  amongst  other  aiiimals.  The  roiwh  weather  and  our  confine- 
ment returned  on  Monday,  and  lasted  tiU  Saturday,  which  became  a 
fine  day  before  it  was  finished.  Nothing,  of .  course,  couldbe  done 
outsida  The  thermometer  during  all  this  tim^e  ranged  between  81** 
«nd  87°,  ending  at  85°;  and  the  tafingof  a  fox  wasUie  only  event  of 
#  most  tiresome  week.  V° 

;  SMAtoSOM.  Itblewagde  on  Sunday,  and  did  not  moderate 
till  Monday  afternoon.  The  whale  boat,  which  could  now  be  of 
no  use,  was  broken  ap.  The  weather  was  becoming  gradually 
milder^  and,  on  the  twenty-eighth,  the  thermometer  was  4°  minus, 
with  a  little  snow.  The  men  were  not preventedfirom  securing  die 
tiores  on  shore  dhrii^  these  days.  On  the  tw^tv-ninth  it  vgain 
V^iw  so  strong  as  to  put  a  stop  to  this  work ;  and  uey  were  th^re- 


*  #• 


'-.«*        ^  ■  *^\'  ^,**.  iMift*  a 


-f-'^f^tl 


ther  more 
Ilia  month, 

not  range 

tempera- 

I  re^aered 

I  extremes 

>revent  all 
with  her, 
od  that  of 
ixpectedly 
degree  of 

boats,  and 
ons.  It  is 
>  imagine 

ongfawith 
Saturday, 
c;  andtbe 
Uttledif- 
hot^hthe 
B  next  two 
ing  again 
r  variable 

Srst  tracts 
with  that 
ometer  at 
risonedby 
theSati^- 

vt  prevent 
ear  were 
t  confine- 
beoamea 
Id  be  done 
tween  8r 
jrevemof 

moderate 
DOW  be  of 
gradually 
4**  minus, 
suringdie 
li  it^[ain 
eret^re- 


/    -  "■^■ 


*^0  THB  ARCTIC  REOIOtS. 


/ 


388 


ewuLTjourJey"  ^"'' '"  P'^^*""*  '^^^'  ^"^  necessaries  for  the 
90th  HadSlst.  It  was  a  more  moderate  day,  thouirh  the  ther- 
.mometer  at  ni^ht  was  at  16°.    There  was  abJidant  f mpbVmeni 
now,  m  preparrng  skin  ba«  for  bedding.  \n  working  at  tKoS 

,  J?n?«I^?^'  ^y  ^'^*"i«  ^  *°"^  °^«^  ^^^  «P«*'  «nce  a  strong  breeae 

J^Jeri^t'iwTt'''"^  *°  ""^""^  9'^^^''^'  "^d  it  was  found  to  S 

&.^£Si^^^'''Y'"««T  «ni°crea»ingin  this  month,  and  hav- 

tejJ^^  Theteniperature^n  the  last 

ifiin  ftifoT °?»?®  .    '?«°  temperature  of  the  first  half  was  lower 
,  ^n  itliad  yet  been  m  the  same  on  the  former  years,  since  it  Was 

Zt'i^^'  ^'^-  .S  ^?r  ^'^'^"""y  '""der  toward  Se  end,  S 
that^the  mean  of  Jie  whole  was  nearly  the  same,  being  minus  3n 
as  the  lowest  and  highest  were  minus  4i»  and  minus  48i°. 
^  BuV  hke  February,  it  was  a  very  cold  month  to  the  feeUnn  in 
consequence  of  the  frequent  winds;  whUe  it  is  certainly1fl3u? 

sitritS'^ri^ir^"^'^ 

the^^s^^^^ 

ing  and  concentrating  our  several  travellingMcessaries :  a  woFk 

^^tol'^rtTr.'r""'  ^i^^  provision  arms,  ammunS 
and  tools,  we  had  fuel  fo  carry,  had  it  even  been  but  to  thaw  snow 

'XTai^"fcoit\^"^"^ '"'*»»  ^^^^^  belongS^toTilJ 

which  there  were  three  other  men,  in  very  indferentH  hnlbS 
noonewasas  strong  as  in  the  preceding  year.  On  mVDarTri^^ 
prudent  conduct,  as  ft  concemeS  this  state  of  thingS^  nowSm^ 
to^,  to  restore  the  whole  to  fuU  allow,|6ce;  and  £  w«  aSu 

I- J^®  W°?***'  olwervations  had  proceeded ;  but  are  likely  to  ba  i>f 
little  valub  from  the  situation  of  the  needle,  new  S^hUsaii 

.  ^n^&'l^lJ^i^'^r''''^  '•"^  oi^inally'shown,  tSeSb^v^ 
H^l  !>•  l»^Culloch  have  extended  Sr  more  widely,  by  demoni 

5!L  «SJ-  H- ^^V^'V*'"  *®  magnetic  neille,  so  as  to  pro- 

«  Jdi.  Afl  ^  "•rt''^.t°^  ««*  with  experiments^V,  deL?ate 
'nSllS^  "^uence  was  likel^to  be  destructive  of  aU  true  resuK 
There  havmg  been  litUe  snow,  in  comparison,  and  much  wind 
AehUls  were  tolerably  bare.    Thajt  wehS  not  seen  anrnalw^ 
-Jjdno^^  C|r  success  in  gii!;?^^ 


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^o^ohg< 


loo 


^^ 


^ 


oLao 


c4       d 

•4       ~ 


-*» 


l>Bu.»ai3telri 


pj< 


e^ 


Bii 


3 


S 


J. 


P 
at 

P> 
g< 

0 

hi 

an 


sei 


%r, 


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W^    I 


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tl 

III 

>— — — J 

1   1 

CO       S 

!  ,s  ,3 

l»S«g 


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9     ef 

Soil 


coleov^lK 


50 

OB 


aa 


44 


TO  TM  ABGTIO  UBOIOiri. 


365 


I  ' 


CHAPTER  XLIX. 


^prilj-Commtnce  the  operation  of  carrying  forward  hn»tl 
skdftes,  and  provinons,  with  the  liew  ofahiSZtt^Ml. 
-^^-Continuation  of  the  same  Jr^^ttZ^  LVbaZ 

having  passed  zero  before,  for  136  davs.     I  do  nrS  Si*^      M '  "?' 
selves  in  the  best  manner  that  we  could. 

(hermbineter  atminiu  W*  «*.«  «-7i.  ^  '^?  ^*^  '^'•»  ^  ^ 

pliM  30*.  »'°'»  /8°»  ''hen  on  the  same  day  in  laat  year  itwaa 

49  ^ 


\ 


,% 


i» 


/-.. 


•>; 


-  'tji'         •^' 


"■/Jtn/         -A*  .-■   V,,  ^  /^    J 


ii 


^86 


SECOND  YOrAOX  OV  DUCOyXKT 


•■«> 


;f-- 


22d.  We  could  have  doDe  nothing  on  this  day,  even  had  it  not 
been  Sunday,  as  the  thermometer  was  at  minus  30°  in  the  morning, 
and  never  rose  beyond  3°  minus.  I  must  explain  that  our  present 
object  was  to  proceed  to  a  certain  distance  with  a  stock  of  provi- 
sions and  the  boats,  and  there  to  deposit  thenTfor  thh  purpose  of 
advancing  more  easily  afterwards.  The  abandonment  of  the  venel 
had  long  ceased  to  be  a  matter  of  hesitation;  and  the  object  now 
was  to  proceed  to  Fury  beach,  not  only  for  supplies,  but  to  get 
possession  of  the  boats  there;  failing  which,  our  own  would  be  put 
into  a  position  on  which  we  could  fall  back. 
1  ^3d.  Though  the  temperature  was  equally  low,  it  was  clear  and 
calm.  We  therefore  set  out  at  nine,  reaching  the  nearest  boat,' 
w^ich  had  already  been  carried  to  the  northern  sea,  about  four  miles 
from  the  ship;  after  which  we  drew  her  to  the  other  boat  and  store 
of  prQyisions,  which  was  two  miles  further.  The  weights  were  tben 
divided  equally,  and  we  proceeded  with  great  labour  and  di£Sculty, 
thrdtjgh  rough  ice^so  that  v^e  were  atlenglh  obliged  to  carry  OQ 
but  <)ne^t  atim'e,  returning  for  the  other  alternately;  in  conse- 
quenjce  of  which  we  did  bot  gain  more  than  a  mile,  after  five  hours' 
worl^.  It  then  began  to  blow  so  hard,  with  drift  snow,  that  we 
were  obli]  fed  to  halt  and  biiild  snow  huts.  These  wfere  covered' with 
canvas,  and  by  means  of  the  deer-skin  beds,  and  our  -ijooking  j|^ 
para^s,  tti  e  whole  party  |0f  fourteen  was  well  accommodated,  though 
the  tempei-ature  of  our  house  at  night  was  but  minus  15*>,  while  |jt 
was  as  low  as  SO**  outside. 

Degrees  of  a  thermometer  make  little  impression  on  readers; 
and,  above  all,  the  minus  side  of  the  scale  is  powerless  to  those  wio 
have  not  li  ved  in  lands  like  that  in  aiiestion.  The  number  thirty 
may  catch  the  eye,  without  making  the  readers  feel  that  it  is  sixty 
degrees  tender  the  freezin'^  point  Our  sleeping  room,  on  this  oc- 
casion, was  forty-seven  de^es  under  that  point  How  did  w^ 
continue  to  sleep,  how  can  men  sleep  in  such  a  temperature?  This 
is  what  I  nave  tried  to  explain  on  former  occasions,  yet  with  very 
bad  SMccesa,  I  fear,  since,  in  this  case,  there  is  no  exercise  to  gene- 
rate heat,  or  counteract  the  effects  of  cold.  Once  more  I  must  leave 
it  to  the  aU-infornied  physiologists. 

24M.  We' proceeded  soon  after  noon,  with  the  second  boat, 
through  the  same  kind  of  ice,  and,  after  four  hours,  reached  the 
sea-shore,  Whei:e  we  found  a  terrace  of  ice  formed  by  the  spring 
tides,  so  aaj  to  produce  a  level  way  within  ^the  hummocks  on  each 
side.  Heije  the  travelling  was  comparatively  easy,  and,  by  six,  we 
were  about  seven  miles  from  North  point,  where  we  left  the  boat 
and  returned  to  our  quarters  the  preceding  night. 

2Sth.  We  began  our  march  early,  this  day,  with  the  second 
boat,  and  with  the  provision  sledge,  alternately,  in  spite  of  a  very 
annoying  wind,  with  anow-drift;  reaching  the  advanced  boat  of 
yesterday,  and  then  carrying  the  whole  a  litUe  way  further,  till 


■  :c. : 


ad  it  not 
morningy 
r  present 
of  provi- 
urpose  of 
he  vessel 
ject  now 
ut  to  get 
Id  be  put 

clear  and 
rest  boa^' 
bur  miles 
and  store 
nrere  then 
diflScuUy, 
carry  on 
in  conse- 
ve  hours' 
,  that  we 
ered'with 

okingjiK 
d,  though 
,  while  it 

i  readers; 
Jiose  wfco 
ber  thirty 
it  is  sixty 
n  this  oc- 
r  did  w^ 
ire?  This 
vith  very 
to  ffene- 
tust  leave 

nd  boat, 
ched  the 
tie  sprio] 

I  on  eaci 

IT  six,  we 

the  boat 

B  second 

»f  a  very 

boat  of 

■ther,  till 


TO  THE  AttCTIC*  ABOrONS. 


m 


eight,  when  we  were  obliged  to  house  ourselves  as  on  the  first  dav 

to  cSKur-    ^""^  *T'  ''.'f  '^.^''^  fr^^'"  that  we  wer^  obligS 
to  cut  It  with  a  saw,  and  could  on  y  afibrd  to  thaw  it  bv  ontiJnf  w 

^^S^  se.,6f  ...hiret 

Unn^,  buron  this  subject  at  least,  heTe^t'lle;  ryet^h^^^^  ^ 

W«  o?t^.t?'^^'*''\r^"°"'°""  »''°"*  *he'dLe«^^^^^ 
PJ"  «•»»•  heroes,  since  they  were  never  in  want  of  a  cow  or  a  C 

inira^SMtt  whn  i;?  If:       ^"  Q.»i^ote,  possibly  too  in  the  eat- 
thS  nrim«^wr^»  '  J  S*  ^^^  P'*'J«<»'"0".  knew  full  iell  how  deeply 
mi!^£l      ♦  •ll''*°^..^""■"  ""^"'^  interests  all  who  belong  to  hu 
manlty,  as  to  the  whole  animal  wee.  wii«  oeiong  lo  nu- 

of  «niSi!ir!f  *'''''  ''"**  were  to  us,  however,  far"  from  being  thines 

MM.    W«  wm  impnKned  all  the  followiDe  dar  br  1^.^. 
uiiuvuii  (uai  we  ^id  not  gam  more  than  three  hun- 


X' 


388 


raooBD  yoTAOB  oy  SnoOVBBT 


r--. 


m 


¥ 


dred  vardi  in  two  hours.  Reaching,  bowe^ilTiHIst,  the  terrtee  of 
ice  which  skirted  the  shore,  ^he  way  became  comparatively  easy, 
though  it  compelled  us  to  go  round  every  point  of  land,  and  ^ery 
bay;  rendering  the  gain  in  direct  distance  very  small.  Thus,  how- 
ever, we  at  length  advanced  two  miles;  when  the  terrace  ended  * 
a^inst  a  precipitous  cape,  which,  for  the  space  of  three  or  four 
miles,  was  impassable  over  such  ice  as  that  which  occupied  the  sea. 

Nothing  therefore  was  left  but  to  drag  our  sledges  on  shore,  and 
attempt  io  find  some  favourable  place  for  carrying  them  over  land. 
With  great  labour,  and  being  capable  of  taking  only  one  at  at  a  time, 
we  thus  at  last  passed  three  hills,  on  which  there  was  frozen  snow 
enbuffh  to  assist  us,  and  reached  the  creek  We,  had  in  view,  witfiin 
an  island  near  the  cape  where  we  were  detained  on  the  September 
of  1889.     Here,  once  more,  we  built  snow  huts  and  took  our  rest. 

28thy29th,30th.  We  could  not  proceed  on  the  following  day, 
in  consequence  of  another  gale;  and  as  this  became  worse  on  Sun- 
day,  we  decided  on  securing  the  boats  and  returning  to  the  ship,  as 
the  wind  was  behind  us,  and  could  thus  be  encountered  with  lit- 
tre  hazard.  We  reached' the  hut«  that  we  had  first  built,  in  the 
evening:  and,  on  the  following  day,  having  concealed  a  stori  of 
provisions  there,  as  we  had  done  at  the  former  place,  succeeded  in 
returning  to  the  ship  about  noon.  The  total  result  of  this  journey 
was,  that  we  had  walked  a  hundred  and  ten  miles,  and  had  advanced, 
in  real  distance,  but  eighteen;  while  it  would  be  nesessary  to  go 
over  this  space  three  times  more,  before  every  thing  could  be  even 
thus  far  advanced  in  a  journey  which  was  destined  ultimately  to  be 
three  hundred  miles,  though  the  direct  one  was  only  a  hundred  and 
eighty.     ^  ^ 

I  deem  it  unnecessary  to  give  any  abatract  of  the  month  of  April 
as  the  past  details  are  ample. 

May  I.  The  first  of  May  was  mild,  with  the  thermometer  be- 
tween 8°  and  S0<*  plus. 

2d.  We  were  employed  in  preparing  provisions  for  the  advance; 
and  the  salt  meat  and  other  stores  which  we  could  not  carry  were  got 
out  in  readiness  to  be  deposited  in  the  Krusenstern  on  shore,  as  a 
last  resource  in  case  of  our  return.  This,  and  other  work  occupied 
the  following  day:  when,  although  the  thermometer  was  plus  20<^  in 
%  the  day,  it  fell  to  zero  at  night 

3rf,  4th.  Two  sledges  were  taken  to  the  sea  ice,  four  miles  off, 
the  men  returning  at  seven  o'clock.  On  the  fourth  we  commenced 
/  our  second  journey:  the  party  consisting  of  myself  and  Commander' 
/  Ross,  with  ten  men,  being  the, whole  of  our  effective  crew,  dragging 
one  heavy-ioadeid  sledge.  After  finding  that  which  had  been  de- 
poaited  yesterday,  we  had  good  ice  for  five  miles,  and  thus  carried 
on  the  two  sledges,  until  one  was  broken  in  attempting  to  pass  some 
hummocks  in  our  way;  arriving  at  the  first  of  our  stations  in  the 
night,  with  one  of  them  only.  .  % 


&i 


TO  Ttl»  ABCl'lC  BSGIONS. 


9B^ 


ton-'lj"^  ft'^^'-^u""^  "'''®  ''~'"  *•'«  expected  intrusions  of  the  irlut- 
'If.;  '°?  '''*^''  ^'8''*  *'°""'  «'«'•*»  *he  merwent  back  with  the  brfken 

kJ?''^^^  ■®''°"*^  *^'''  brought  up  on  the  folloxv^njE  day  and  the 
broken  one  repaired  j  wheri,  the  loa.ls  being  equaS  we  »St  out 
for  the  next  station,  which  we  did  dot  Wh  XS'at  niSft   Si 

niehtW;i«J^X""'-"''!r"S  ^he  sledges,  we  returned  to  our  last 
SS?Uj*a?^^'^^"'^^  of  ^urteen  miles.    The  thermom-  J 

.„J'^'  .^®^toat  with  the  remaining  provisions  and   beddin<r 
and  reached  the  second  staUon  of  eighteen  Ss  at  three  ioTheS' 

fi;eT:^ks'"Jrr^*^^^^  V  '"^•-  bringi^^^ht't^^iora  d 

Our  7Zul  wrrch  ton  L'' • ''  "  PT"'  ?"PP'y^^°^  *«»  daysonore. 
jj^ur  laoour  was  much  too  serious  and  anx bus  to  allow  of  anv  ieiit- 

Rri^I^^n'int^^^^^^ 

vUerM^-i  •  A  «'''''*'°®'»V"'on»«'ho8ebu8ine8aitisto  con- 

SS  hKflJrS'"*  ''^°"*'  "^Z  '•"*•  Here,  repairinf  the  sled^L 
olfhem  JnJS'^*  advanced  another  step  of  sbVen  miles  with  t?^ 
dav'sTour^^vlf  '"^1"°'^'^.'*''  »  '"■''8'«  ""'J  having  thus  made  a 

LrSel'S  nT  •"'•'•'  '•"?  "'"^P'-'K  again  at  odr  hut 
.«  rl.;  Jf  .f       /""  r*^  ""P"^  imprisoned  us  all  the  day;  but  if  it  nve 
us  rest,  It  alarmed  us  for  the  state  of  our  road      Thl  «: Jk*  \f^ 
mometerrosetoplusiso    m.  ThefUowi^tslchwf«e  wkh 
an  2»terly  gle;  yet  the  thoughtless  sailors  slVanTelTed  t  W 

O^h"!  tl„?K''K'P'''"""'"u*°  "''"  ""^^  held  all    he  «SS,n,^bimv 
On  the  tenth,  however,  there  being  no  cessatio,,  of  thHSle  and  t£ 

adoDted    At  S?  K?  1°  ^**"8*  u***"  P°»'"°°  '^bich  had  first  Zn 
^^B^zert!^         ^   *  "'^''^''  ^'•^  «*'"  ^*"'  *""  ^^'^  thermometer 

Mm^iiL^Vif  "'^"j^"''*.  "?^~  *"»»  been,  in  the  prose  of  the  Joe 
«iorr.^din\X«'  f  ^^.^''l!"  "''«'  °"  ^''e  I^culia^Ses  of     ' 

other  sailor,  u  it  i.  to  that  of  a  Chickasaw.  o7a  Chinese     Thl  l^f 


I  ■? ' 


>■ 


'Vvl 


A  ■- 


•  ■■;"/■■ 


/•^ 


v^ 


':» 


•'■l--: 


l^":J. 


:*   ■* 


A- '  i' ' 


390 


^coNS  roTAOj!  or  msct^tEvr 


■*.■■■■  ,  '■■  ' 

1^  .    OF  the  Tt^ng  niihed  and  irreplac6«b1e,  or  even  the.  Teasel  on  a  lee 

jpr      , '  L  shore. Hi  a  storm,  it  j8,*'the  captain's  business."'  The  men  obey 

'W  their«  orders,  it  is  true,  and  what  ttiey  will|ittemi)tai}d  execute,  no 

,  landsman  will  believe;  but  the  watch  at  an  end,  they  sleep  as  sound. 
M  ir  nothiqg  was  amiss:  it  is  **  the  captain's  businessi"    Our  own 
^  .   men  had,  in  our  present  voyage,  seen,  perhaps,  enough  to  have  ae- 

*    ^  Quired  some  thoughts  of  their  own:  and  possibly  too,!  they  some- 

|,  tifnes  eonsidered  of  matters  for  which  «the  captain!'  ought  not  to 

'  '.,  .  have  been  exclusively  responsible;  yet  the  radical  feefiqg  loi*  ever 

'    *    brokeout,  and  whatever  there  was  of  unusuar  and  neW  to  be  pnH* 
—^^^    *-       :     jected  and  done,  their  tbnquility  remained  unalte^ :  it  might  hav6  " 
been  wrong  or  right,  but;  it  was  «'the  captain's  business,"  not 
"■  theirs-r^  happy  responsibility. on  liis  part,  it  cannot  be  denlecl;  yet 

is  it  4|pt  ohe  under  which  he  deserves  the  praise  which  he  does 
■^  not  always  attain?  '     , 

ll/A.  We  were  obliged  to  dig  the  sledges  and  boats  out  of  thcvsnow 
before  we  could  proceed.    Outr  road 'was  much  encumbered  With 
.  wreaths  of  snow,  from  the  ,gale,  but  we  reached  one  of  our  positions 
ill  about  six  hours,  at  aa  island  near  tlie  main,  leind  i^eturned  to  our 
quarters  by  the  eviening.  'The  thermometer  in  thcTday  nearly  sub- 
sided tO  the  fr^ing.point,  and  was  plus  IQ"  af'night 
'  ^  '         .    12M,*13/A,  14M.  '  At  eight  weiwt  out  With  the  other  boat, 
^  taining  the  extra  week's  provisions;  and,  ifi  spite  of  a  fresh„brt 

-^ ,        ,  with  orifl  snow,  succeeded  in  getting  her  to  the  same  island,  retii 

'  ing  once  more  to  sleep/  On  the  thirteenth  we  picked  up  the  sledge' 
which  hadfheen  left  four  days  ago,  and  carried  it  on  to  the  same  point 
.       llie  jiext  day  was  employed  in  carrying  forward  twb  sledges,  with 
^  ^.       ,   the  tents,  beddfng,  and  provisions,  in  spiteof  a-nle  which,  rising 
when  we  were  about  halfway;  gave  us  much  trouble;  as  "^id  the  de- 
ficiency of  two  of  the  men,  who  Kad  become  snow  blind.    Weaiv- 
.        rived  late,  affd  built  huts  for  the  night 
'*        15tH:    The  journey  was  on  this  day  deferred  till  theevening,  ott 
•eeount  of  the  orients  eyes;  and  it  became  thus  necessary  th^t  we 
,        should  hereafter  turn  day  into  night    We  passed  acr<M8  .a  narrow 
neck  of  land,  and  continued  our  route  to  Eci^>se  harbour;  but  were 
• .  •         at  last  entirely  stopped  at  the  point,  ort  its  southerri  side,  by  the  for- 
^      nidable  nature  of  the  ice.    Here,  however,  we  found  that  this  bay- 
was  diuded  from  the  sea  to  the  northward  by  only  a  narrow  neck 
o|  lanJ^  and  that,  beyond  this,  the  ice  was  not  bad. 
_  '  16M.    Pn  the  sixteenth  we  passed^over  Eclipse  harbour,  thrvugh 

T        much  snow»  and  crossed  the  neck  just  mentioned,  which  was  only 
five  hundred  yards  wide,  and  not  above  fifty  feet  in  elevation.     We 
,     ^  thus  deseended  to  the  sea  on  the  other  side,  which  proved  to  be  a 

,«.  «.    specious  hafbour,  containing  one  island;  bounded  to  the  north  by  a 

point  s6  high,  that  the  sea  could  not  be  seen  over  it     The  boat  was 
then  hauled  to  the  mainland;  and  we  returned,  aft^r  an  advance  of 
'  eight  miles.  .       ,?~^     .         •  >    • 


\  • 


1- 


j^ 


4  ■  . 


t* 


f.' 


t   V 


•^ 


TO  TBX-ARCTit;  HXeiOITS.      , 


391 


irowever,  the  worst  partof  th??oS/  ^*     -     '         °°**     ''  "^^ 

»"";?•.  »d  w  rii:?:^.J!:  s:t;r^' ""  t  ^"^  •"'"^ 

■iiired  Md  could  notSCSS   '°"™,»»™  *'•>«*  coald  be 

of  un  to  the  natives.    TW^CiX  H      .'i'  "? ''"'  "'*' ""'"''  P"" 
•hat  I  h«l  over  been  dblSdto  .ttA«.,  k'.""  ""  «"*  ^"^ 

^■-^  -H„g .  period  .?t?4feJS;;:^'s:;Kr!^iS^^^ 


-  »r  » 


.    * 


-*^iki^^ 


(f 


Ml«,.i,i_j 


i^ 


39)8 


SECOND  yoTAos  OY  mscovtnY 


i^ 


u    .•: 


( •: 


i-v  I 


ing  with  an  otd  friend;  an^  I  did  not  pass  the  point  where  she  eeased 
to  be  visible  without  stopping  to  , take  a  sketch  of  this  melancholy 
desert,  rendejted  more  melancholy  by  the  solitary,*' abandoned,  help- 
less home  of  our  past  years,  fixed  in  immovable  ice,  till  time  should 
perforin  on  her  his'usual  work. 

^Oth.  As  we  proceeded,  we  found  the  snow  harder,and  our  rotA 
improved;  yet  the  heavy  loads  made  our  progress  slow,  and  we  did 
.not  arrive  at  the  twelve  mile  huts  till  noon.  Slat.  At  one  on  the 
following  morning,  we-proceeded,  but  could  not  long  carry  forward 
more  than  two  sledges  at'once,  up  the  hills;  so  that  we  did  not  gain 
the  next  post,  oi>ly  eight  miles  oft  under  ten  hours.  We  ended  the 
month  of  May  at  this,  halting  place,  with  the  thermometer  a^  nig^t 
about  the  freezing  point.  —i::^--:^ — :  „-_  xiz^,^- -- _^-_i_ 

I  may  nof«»  explain  the  plan  of  the  journey  we  hiad  thus  Under- 
taken. This  was,  to  carry  both  the  boats  pn  to  Elizabeth  harbour, 
with  provisions  for  six  weeks  at  full  allowance,  there  to  deposit  the 
boats  and  half  the  provisions,  and  to  proceed  with  the, sledges  and  the 
other  half  lill  we  reached  the  latitude  of  71'°,  wheqce  we  should  | 
send  a  light  party  of  fiVe  to  iiscertainthe  state  of  things  at  Fui^l 
beach.  0  %  « 

This  month  hid  brought  us  to  70°  21'  latitude,  leaving  us  sixteen 
nffles  more  to  Elizabeth  harbour;  and  though  our  crew  were  in  a 
very  indifferent  condition  for  work,  all,  even  the  blind  man  and  Uie 
lame,  were  obliged  to  exert  themselves  in  some  manner,  under 
which,  with  a  revival  of  hope>  they  contrived,  to  keep  up  their 
spirits.  ,         , 

The  state  of  the  ice  at  this  period,  and  it  was  now  it  late  one,  wis 
incredibly  bid.  The  sea  was  every  where  one  solid  mass  of  the 
heaviest  pieces,  as  far  as  the  eye  could  reach,  in  every  direction;  and 
even  the  cracks  which  we  had  lat^y  noticed  in  the  marginal  ter- 
races, were  again  filled  up  to  the  same  state  of  solidity  with  all  felse. 
All  was  rock:  it  seemed  as  if  there  was  never  to  be  water  again: 
but  whenever  this  mi«ht  happen,  it  was  now  but  too  plain  Ihat  the 
result  could  not  be  to  liberate  the  ship  which  we  had  left,  within  the 
present  year.  It  infas  at  least  satisfactory  to  find  that  th^re  was  no 
rashness  in  our  proceedings,  and  that  nothing  but  what  we  were  do- 
ing could  have  been  done.  I  H  ^ 
•■        ^               ■       i  ■  ■    \-  ■     ■ .                         3  ■  •  "■.■;■>  •:         i 


ii 


#--^ 


♦.*-. 


■5,r-*." 


•m: 


'  '      .       .->  •■'.■. 


4     *«.  V.',, 


X 


'     ^^.^*i^l 


terta 

f  vil  1 

.    4« 

-  — 

there 

inche 

tbn  •( 

;■■»-  ■    ■ 

t- 

• 

» 

» 

TO  TM  ABCTIC  MOtQirs. 


898 


CHAPTER  I^ 


'  ■  I       ■  ■■■-'''■ 

ieach^rransaeho^  and  detention  during  July.    •      ^ 


m  the  morning,  we  arrived  at  the  th  rd  sSnfdit  muL  Z 
teotT'''  •^"''  """"•''  *•»«  reminder  offi'd";'^^^^^^ 
Sd.  We  reached  the  next  huts  thia  iinv  t»wk  ♦u^  _*«■  .   . 

which  it  wMimp<«ibl.  to  retu™,  I  <^«t7^^p^^^^ 

KS.ththTJ-A'-.^^rr-''"''^'''*'''  ^""^^^^' 

♦hi"*"!!  "*u?^r.''*'""8^  '*  "^^J'  "»«»*  respectinr  thinw  which  I 

muJSL^F*^^^^         f^y*  *'*'l''*'*  '*«'^«'>««»  mentioning  oJ  o^r 
return  to  England.    I  liave  ever  been  more  desiroas  to  nraisA  thiTn 

I  can  helD  ^h^tul''^''*  ?"*'  "'*  ""'^  remember,  mor«.than  • 
leJerity  M^f  S   ^^J'^  tocertBure,  with  somewhat  more  of 
to  my  iJS  tLun^^V''''''^J  to  them,  than  would  be  agreeabfe 

.  -^^urd/rniTati'iz^^^^^^^^ 
i"lx^3;^.rriS^^^^^ 

JL  am  too  well  experienced  in  mankind  to  be  surprised  or  to  i.n 

.  V  jiKt:;s;"^  '«^"'*  '^^^  ^^^^  ^^^  ~ted  atg  ^VeS 

tl.«1?*ho?"K^'''  '**^  "'  .^<'"P*'  •»•«*»««•»  ftw  day,  we  found  that 

IcKiclT^S^Jr "'?  ''^.^'^''  ^^^^^  ''«« '^«^J"  frozen  thJi    . 
incnes  uiick,  and  we  arrived  at  our  huts  at  six     w«  h»M  ...oj 

th.  ...■»«,  te-tg,  ..HI  u«M.gh  th.  ^S,S,"';J  « "CJJIg 

-fT : IT. ' 1 — ^ — -  ■  -  ' 


V::.:.:Vi 


A 


:■"'■.  i 


804 


-  i 


SfCONO  VOTAGB  Of  DBKOVBRT 


they  were  not  uncomfortable.    51h.  Having  then  licoaght  on  tiiie 
remainder  of  our  things^  since  every  stage  requiredi  two  journeys,    ^ 
we  proceeded  in  the  evening  with  the  sledge  and  one  boat*  and  at 
midnight  crossed  the  ridge  which  bounds  Elizabeth  harbour  on 
the  south.  "  ' 

6M.  On  the  following  day  we  reached  the  exti«mo  entrance,  de- 
positing our  loads  and  returning  to  the  topts  for  the  remainder. 
We  had  shot  two  hares  in  these  two  days,  which  aided  somewnat 
our  short  allowance.  7/i^  We  crossed  the  ridge  as  fibr  as  the  first 
boats  on  the  next  day,  returning  to  the  tents  at  eight,,  much  fa- 
tigued from^e  snow  in  our  road.  In  this  wiUk  we  saw  the  tracks  . 
of  reindeer,  and  found  the  hares  still  in  their  white  winter  clothing. 

ith  and  9th.  We  wc;,re  imprisoned  by  a  storm  on  the  eighth:  andr— 
on  the  following  day,  every  thing  was  brought  forward  to  the  de- 
pot in  Elizabeth  harbour.  Here  we  alK:ended  the  hillf  so  as  to  ex- 
amine the  state  of  the  ice ;  the  extremely  bad  aspect  of  Which  made 
us  cpnclude  that '  it  would  be  impossible  to  carry  the  boats  any  .  .< 
further.    As  they  were  ^o;w  also  within  reach,  in  case  we  should/^ 
be  compelled  to  retufn^  I  determined  to  proceed  with  th^peopIe»^ 
and  three  weeks'  provisions,  for  twenty  er  -thirty  miles;  leaving  * 
the  rest  here-aa  a  reserve,  and  sending  an  advance  partyito  Fuiry 
beach,  to  ascertain  the  state  of  things  at  that  place.         [  ^  / 

iOth,  At  half-past  one  in  the  morning  we  accordingly iet  out, 
with  three  sledges,  very  heavy  laden;  since,  besides  jthle  three 
weeks'  provisions  at  full  allowance,.there  were  arms,  ammunition, 
toolft,  instruments,  clothing,  and  ipibre.  Some  valuabl^  articles, 
which  yre  could  not  take,  were  lett  under  one  of  the  hoats,  which 
was  turned  up- for  this  purpose,  that  they  might  be  safef  iji  case  of 
our  return.  We  halted  at  the  south  of  tfa^  point  which  formS  the 
b)ay  already  often  describe,  and  then  proceldl'ng,  afteif  i^uch  tbil^ 
from  the  badness  of  the  ice,  passed  it  at  midnight. 

Mth.  The  state  of  the  way  obliged  us  to  mi^e  fp|i> /the  north 
point,  where  we  pitched  and  had  eight  hours'  rest;  iSM.  On  the 
twelfth,  we  reached  another  point  and  again  encamped.  Hens 
the  preparations  were  made  for  the  advance'  of  Gomramder  Ross, 
with  Abemethy  and  Park,  who  departed  at  ten;  for  Fury  poinu 
taking  with  them  a  sledge,  fifteen  days'  provisions,  a  tent^  and 
such  other  things  as  were  indbpensable.  -Their  diractions  were 
to  leave  a  note  at  every  place  where  they  dept,  ^nioh  we  calcu4 
lated  on  reaching  in  double  the  tiitte,  with  our  loads,  so  as  to  be\ 
advanced  about  seventy  miles  when^  they  should  have  reached  to ' 
their  joumeylEi  end,  now  a  hundred  ah^  fifty  miles  away.  This 
was  to  allow  them  fifteen  in  the  day,  and^^urselves  sevens  which 
was  as  much  as  we  could  execute  after  lowng  three  of  our  best 
men. 

\3th.  That  party  was  soon  out  of  sight;  bdt^we  made  a  very 
slow  ftognna ;  being  compelled  to  perform  circilite  where:they 


to   THB   ARCTIC   BSOIONS. 


395 


/r 


had  been  ftble  to  jjross.  After  nine  hours,  we  halted  on  a  noint 
bnt  even  yet  coald  and  no  water  at  nodn/  ATthrie  we  ffi 
depot  of  provisions,  and  proceeded,'  afterwardrS  fourin  tli« 
morning,,  while  obliged  shortly  to  halt,  on  aTcol  onhHl.  ess  of 

wrvTy^co^ftrilir  ^'^^^  ^""^  ^^^  ^^  ^  ™ 

the  evening,  in  spite  of  some  falling  snow;  passing  over  k"  so 

vTn?i  t  u  ^'*""*'  ""'  "»*«'  *•"*  tlf®  ca'rn  erected  bv  the  ad- 
vanced party,  about  midnighl,  and  completed  a  journe/ of  nrne. 

vZ^JtTJT^^  ^'^u7*  ^"^  P*^**^  many  small  bays  and 
^ints  of  land,  and  saw  the  blue  mountains  to  the  westward  about 
ten  miles  distant,  finishing  a  journey  of  eleven  m^les  by  fS  ii  the^ 

Jeeded  at  eight  m  the  evening.  18«A.  We  found  water,  for  ihe  first 
Ztv.'^l  ^i  fo"o>fin«  morning,  and  .halted  at  the  second  cairn 
which  the  advanced  party  *ad  erected,-  finding  a  note  to  say  tS 
they  hid  been  checked  bv  lameness  and  by  inflamed  eyes  Our 
journey  thl»^night  had  not  exceeded  eight  miles.  ^ 

».i!  «  j-^*  had  recommenced  at  eight  last  evening,  and  proceed- 
ed; finding,  and  seeing,  all  the  land  as  completely  coveSdS 
ZZ^lt  'J^l'^''"  winter.  The  thermoLtSr^haS  aS,  sTnk 
in  SJaiSJ  that  etery  pool  was  frozen,  and  we  wero  again  obliejd 
to  thaw  for  water.  20/A.  At  nine  in  the  evening  we  beganTS? 
in  spite  of  a  snow  which  continued  all  night,  aSi  arriJSd  Ko 
m  the  morning  at  the  third  cairn,  pitching  finally,  S  five/on  ^ 
point  where  there  were  some  marks  of  former  native  encam^ment^ 
Sr»r.  ^V:t  "^^'^  *»  dispense  with  water,  as  there,  wi  nonT 
and  we  could  not  afford  fuel  to  melt  ice.  «»  none, 

•nnJhf",  ;^'.*wo  in  the  morning  of  this  next  advanfjei  we  came  to 
another  caim  that  had  been  left  by  our  predecessiwB  j  butThiS 

i^thltZini^'*'"*  ""k**;  ^^  '•°'°''  •'*°»«'  '^Wch  they  had  placed  j 
but  that  being  too  rough  for  us  to  follow,  we  took  andther  couroe 

*"o4^*^Ir'?  *"»""•  "^  ''*o«»-»  »»«>ted  at  eiAt.  T?' 

we  hi  «nt  hVf     ",*"  '**?V  '  P'^ee'Jed  to  examine  the  land,  as 
we  had  not  before  been  able  to  survey  this  part  of  the  counfa^ 

A*'*;';?"'  we  proceeded  in  the  evening,Tu8uiU,  tift  J^7r!     ' 
rived  at  the  south  Grimble  islands;  where  I  found  CommTndlr 
Ross's  caira,  being  the  end  of  his  foLrth  day's  journe^.    By  Ws 

pltTwtrrh^n^Tf  ?  """'*".•»'  "^  ^»''  el^hJ-friUthe     . 
ifi^Q  ^T^  T-  A  ^"'  **'^*".  Powesslon  on  the  tenth  of  August, 
1829.   23d.  As  there  were  eight  miles  yet  to  make,  before  we 
could  cross  the  inlet,  wci  preferred  sleepiVig  on  the  ici  whe«  ^ 


•*»«*l»<»«lB<«(S«ys>jjyw;«i\te^^^ 


-*V^/*^v, 


.  '    5             \- 

',/, 

* 

3M 


SECOND  VOYAOB   OF   DIMOVCRT 


were,  and  after  six  in  tlie  mornings  leavirfg  tlie  men  to  their  reaty 
I  pniceeded  to  examine  tbid  inlet.  * 

After  tlie  usual  measurements  and  observations,  I  ascertained 
its  figure  and  extent,  finding  that  its  bottom  gave  entrance  to  a 
large  river,  and,  consequently,  that  there  was  no  opening,  or  pas- . 
sage  to  the  western  sea  at  this  place,  as  might  otherwise  have 
remained  a  point  in  doubt  °  It  was  also  evidently  a  shallow  piece 
of  water. 

Having  proceeded  at  nine,  we  passed  two  considerable  rivers 
at  the  northern  part  of  this  inlet,  and,  after  that,  several  islands  ; 
arriving  at  a  point  where  we  again  ipund  a  cairn,  with  a  note. 
We„pitched  on  the  south-east  side,  where  I  completed  the  survey 
of  this  bay.         * 

24tA.  At  three  on  this  morning  wa1*eached  the  fifth  cairn  of  our 
advanced  party ;  and  aSi^tl^e  note  reported  all  well,  I  calculated 
that  they,  would,  at  this  date,  have  been  two  days  at  Fury  point, 
and  that  they  would  consequently  n;eet  us  on  their  return,  in  two 
days  more.  I  therefore  left  a  note  at  thfixairn,  informing  them  that 
we  had  passed  it,  and  should  keep  cu^e  to  the  land;  as  it  was 
possible  they  might  take  a  different  road  and' miss  us. 

^5ih,  We  accordingly'continued  our  journey  along  shore,  and 
passed  a  point,  soon  after  which  we  met  and  joined  Commander 
Ross's  party.  The  information  he  brought  from  Fury  point  was, 
that  the  sea  had  risen  high  and  carried  off  three  of  the  boats,  with 
many  other  things,  to  the  northward,  and  that  one  of  them  was 
seriously  damaged.  All  else  was  in  the  same  condition  as  we  had 
left  it;  and  the  bread  and  other  provisions  were  in  abundancaand 
in  good  order.  We  all  pitched  for  the  day,  and  found,  that  with 
what  they  had  brought,  and  some  which  they  had  deposited,  there 
was  enough  to  last'us  all  on  full  allowance  till  we  should  reach 
that  place. 

£6f  A.  After  starting  at  eight  last  night,  we  proceeded  in  spite 
of  a  very  cold  fall  of  snow,  till  five,  when  we  halted  just  alter 
having  passed  the  sixth  ofktbe  advanced  caims*  S7fA.  At  two  in 
the  morning  of  the  twenty-seventh,  we  reached  Cape  Garry,  and 
picked  up  the  provisions  which  had  been  left  |:  encamping  in  a 
strong  breeze,  accompanied  by  snow,  which  ended  in  a  storm, 
lasting  the  whole  day,  with  the  thermometer  at  SS". 

28fA.  On  this  day  we  reached  the  Umd  near  the  bottom  of  the 
bay,  which  seemed  the  outlet  of  a  great  river;  and  though  unable 
to  make  ft  perfect  survey,  I  tiot  only  found  the  water  shallow,  but 
could  see  the  land  so  well  all  round,  as  to  assure  nae  that  there 
was  no  passage  westward  iii  this  direction.  29i&.  On  the  next  we 
passed  through  much  water,  often  above  our  knees:  it  was  a 
novelty,  yet  not  an  agreeable  one ;  but  we  traced  it  to  the  efflux 
of  several  small  rivers  at  this  part  of  the  coast. 


TO  TIU  ABOnO  BBOIOm. 


397 


«-?°'*:u  ^®  "■""»•">  o"^  joBWMJy  M  usual,  beinr  now  obliged  tn 
carry  the  lame  man,  in  addition  to  the  ««t  of  our  loil  aXai.!^ 
edaeveral  low  points  and  islands  of  limestone.  Thosun  had  I 
great  effeet  on  the  anow,  and  the  aspect  of  the  land  wrhouri; 
changing,  but,  in  the  offing,  the  ice'^med  asTm  and3 
Buous  as  ever.  At  noon  the  thermometer  was  at  47^  ««.!-♦  f-i 
night  at  320.  Wo  had  shot  several  diks  injie ".^t  feil^s  an/ 
they  were  somewhat  better  than  a  luxury  ^  us,  wiS^befori 

°;iJhrh:ri'^frryt;:cr'^^   Finiy,we'e„«JS 

i/'il  *;nT''*  ^***'"  '^■*  V?^»  *"***» '«»"««  down  the  larjre  cracks 

^T  "J*?**  that  we  passed  were  a^so  pourinir  down^  th^r«; 
spective^rrentsj  and  at  the  foot  of  one  Sf  theS  we  nLhS  o^^ 

hrther.    The  last  part  of  our  journey  was  unusuilV  llhoS..., 
from  the  wedged  masses  of  ice.  lo  na^eil  «  ♦«  !ii    ^  laborious, 
^olence  whicfthey  had  «nde?;o't:;.?iru'tt"  °^^^^ 
all,  aadjncamped  on  Fury  beach  at  ten  o'clwik? 

JhwZ''i!TC^.T?  *'  '•ome,  for  «>ime  at  least,  such  home 
as  It  was,  knd  however  long  or  short  was  the  time  that  we  wer« 
destined  to  occupy  it    There  was  the  feeling  rjome  at  kw? 
and  that  was  something :  it  had  been  once  thf  home  of  iJl  of  ^«' 
since  It  had  been  our  storehouse ;  and  it  bad  twi^hJnXL   r 
Commander  IU«.     The  men  I  doubtnot,  felUlS^^^  "ftel  ^ 
their  fears,  and  the  pleasure  was  littie  diminishwl  fewfc!™  I 
anticipations  of  what  might  yet  be  to  ^?"'*'*'*  ^  **"'"'  ''^  •"' 
^  Ihe  first  measure  which  I  adopted,  was  to  send  them  all  tn  •*-♦ 
for  the  night,  that  w«  might  once  mole  brine  back  the  Jli.!?. 5? 
of  our  days,  and  after  tSi.  we  pmeeded Ttiea  siJ^foJ^K 
stows     Being  scattered  in  eve^  direction,  Uwai  hT^Jer  d^f^ 
ficult  to  prevent  the  balf^tarved  men  from  wttiniJ^ce^ T L ' 
in  consequence  of  which,  and  in  spitTof  S  mS«^^H  -i**'"** 
many  sureted  smarily'lbr  their  impriden^^^^^^^^^ 
damage  done  by  the  high  rise  of  the  «i?fo.^tly  me7^d  ^l 
only  impertant  one  we  discovered  was  the  h^Jf^l^^'l^^ 
irnSitZ"^'*  '^•^-l--'-  -«^-?Setair.l^-±^^^ 

uetS^^^H  ^he£lt'SJ;/f  ^S***^'  '^^  -PP^inteiW  their 
wS  WM  rfai^iJ  f  n^*^  t«i  be  done  was  to  construeT^a  house, 
iSSl^   K^       ^  ^  thirty-one  by  sixteen  feet^  and  seven  feeti» 


I    ki 


■'■^^mijl   ii*-Wi^»-|iu>»y 


ntOOIfD  ▼OTAOB  or  DIKOVBKT  i 

;•■  ■     ■  "-■■.-,/.  J 

blew  a  strong  gale  ftrom  the  eastward ;  which  somewhat  impeded 
our  woric,  as  that  was  aided  by  the  illness  of  the  men  who  had 
OTer«eaten  themselves;  but  the  rest  were  employed  in  bringinr 
the  dispersed  boats  to  a  proper  place  for  being  repaired. 
4th.  The  first  shower  of  rain  for  the  season  fell  this^ay,  being 
^three  weeks  later  than  had  ever  yet  been  ncorded.    The^  house 
HfWas  finished,  and  received  the  nicliname  of  Somerset  house |  this' 
tract  of  land  having  been  previously  called  North  Somerset   Sth. 
It  snowed  on  the  fifth ;  and  this  ended,  in  a  clear  northerly  gale, 
so  cold,  that  the  rain  which  had  fallen,  ftvzf^;  the  highest  degree 
of  the  thermometer  being  but  30°,  as  the  loivbst  was  ^7^  6tk.^Aa 
it  snowed  again  all  the  night,  the  land  was  as  completely  covered 
1^**  *''•  following  morning  as  ever  it  had  been  during  the  winter.' 
The  cari>enters  were  set  to  work  on  the  boats ;  the  plan  foi^ 
which  was,  that  each  of  them  should  be  strengthened  by  means  of 
two  bulk  heads  and  two  strong  beams.    I  had  intended  to  rig  the 
whole  with  shoulder  of  mutton  sails,  as  the  safest  and  best ;  but 
Gomman(|er  Rosa  preferring  a  spritsail,  was  allowed  to  manage 
one  of  then^  in  his  own  way.   The  house,  which  we  now  proceed- 
ed to  occupy,  was  divided  into  two  room%  one  for  the  men,  and 
another,  containing  four  small  cabins,  for  the  offlcenf:  at  present^ 
the  cook's  department  was  a  tent.    The  purser  proceeded  to  take 
the  regular  account  of  provisions. 

7th.  Thh  snow  dissolved  at  night ;  but  the  ice  in  the  offing  wu 
as  heavy  as  ever,  and  at  nightit  snowed  again,  being  two  degrees 
under  freezing.  Sth...  On  Sunday  the  usuil  i^ularity  of  divine 
service  recommenced,  after  many  nnavoididile  interruptions. 

9th  to  I5th.  Nothing  of  note  occurred  on  many  following  ^ays, 
unless  it  be  that  the  temperatui«  rose  once  to  50%  but  was  at' the 
freezing  point  at  night,  on  most  days.  It  blew  hard  on  the  twelfth, 
but  moderated  on  the  following  day:  nor  is  there  any  thing  to 
record  during  the  whole  of  this  week,  on  to  Sunday,  except  that 
\  the  work  on  the  boats  was  in  progress. 

I6th  to  iUt.  The  weather  was  Tariable  during  the  three  first 
days  of  the  following  week,  and  there  wlu  a  little  rain  on  Thurs- 
.  day.  The  snow  was  slowly  disappearing,  but  the  night  temperature 
never  rose  beyond  the  freezing  point.  On  one  of  thMe  days  I  was 
able  to  ascend  the  highest  hill,  about  a  thousand  feet  high,  whence 
I  could  perceive  that  the  whole  sea  was  a  solid  mass  of  ice,  with- 
out  motion,  as  far  as  the  eye  could  reach.  Some  deep  ravines, 
carrying  no  water  but  that  from  the  melting  of  the  snow,  were, 
for  this  country,  rather  picturesque. 

sad  to  SltU  Of  the  remainder  of  this  month  I  need  not  give  a 
detailed  joUraaL  The  weather  proceeded  in  the  same  manner, 
calm,  windy,  clear,  hazy,  and  rainy,  in  rotation ;  with  a  tempera* 
ture  at  night  gradually  rising  to  40<*.  Our  work  was  uniform, 
conusting  in  the  preparation  of  the  boats  and  provisions :  tihe 


-.|* 


,ViM4U^ 


TO  THB  ABcrn«  uoroira.  ^ 

venkHii  *n«.*k..       y"*^*^  was  open,  jsut  as  it  turned  outi  all  wim 
^4^  '''  """^  *"  '  '^  of  preparatiou  foi  oS 

V^S'S!*'"^"'.  *"'  J"Jy  ••»'<^8  a  mean  of  plus  ^ 
?T  nlSr"  ^^  S"*/®'  *"^  P***'  «?^    There  had 
r!  ^*S'1"*1  *•!.•  ""*  *' •  ^^'J^  '«#  period:  but 

Thefottawing  u  m  expUmaiion  of  tht  Meteorohgied  Tabh,  f,^^ 

nator  the  direction*  When  the  S^t^o^J^  number  of  houn,  uid  th^ deitonfe 

to  the  right  of  the  deno^ninalSSrSetS^foS- «f"I^  7^.'"^  pJ««ed 
direction,  tiiis  wiU  be  rivM^b  fiSlhN?!  <!«  ""c  »' *•»«  wirid  in  tiie  nme 
figure,  in  the  following  EeJ^  **"  «^  *^»?  of  *•  Appendix,  denoted  by 

0.  Cahn. 

I'  5^-^*  S^'  °'"  J"^  wfficient  to  gire  Bteeisge  way       '  v 

2.  Light  breeze        ^or  that  in  which  a  m2w,Iw«r  1  to  2  h.  J 

JS^^Sn^*       ^^t»'*U«il»et..„dcle^fK3£15S: 


5.  Aeah  breeze 

6.  Strong  breeze 


T.  Modera^gale 

8.  Fresh  gale 

9,  Strong  gale 


I  or  that  wl 

edman  _. „„ 

chaaefkillandby. 


psailaand 


jSSfm     „       ^. .       I  Single-reefed  topsail* 
wEraW»-weU<onditioi^.  I     top-gJLmt  nST^ 

\J."iple-reefed  topsaib. 
iXIoae-reefed  topsails  and 

Jtd^o^S.^*'  '^''^-^^  ««cety could  b^^^heTC^efed  a»ia*^ 

12  ■  A  h^^'  °'  ^^^T'^^k  could  reduce  her  to  stom  staysuls. 
13.  A  humcane.  or  that  which  no  canvas  could  witSrtS^ 


-^ 


N 


400 


SECOND  VOTAOK  OF  DUCOVE&V 


€QAPT£R  LI. 


Jivgust— Departure  from  Fury  beach  in  the  b<Mts— Detention,  and 
diffi£uUie»  on  the  coait— Summary  of  Mg^t — Transeuitiona  in 
September — Baffied  in  our  at^mpts  to  proceed — Betum  towards 
Fury  beach— Summary  of  September. 

August  tsU  On  the  last  day  of  the  preceding  month,  the  ice  had 
unexpectedly  brolcen  up  so  far  as  to  lea,ve  some  navigable  clear 
water,  and  as  the  boats  were  also  ready,  we  prepared  to  depart, 
with  the  hope  of  being  able  to  quit  this  strait  and  reach  Baffin's 
bay  before  the  departure  of  the  whaling  vessels.  The  boats  were 
stored  with  provisions  till  the  first  of  October,  beside  the  beddtng 
and  other  needful  things:  and  each  carried  seven  men,  with  an 
officer.  Commander  Ross  and  I  exchanged  copies  of  our  charts 
and  narratives,  in  case  of  sepamtioh j  and  a  ^ttle  was  buried  in 
the  house,  containing  a  short  account  of  our  proceedings.     ^ 

Yfe  left  the  beach  at  four  in  the  afternoon,  but  found  the  clan, 
neb  in  the  ke  verv  crooked,  and  much  impeded  by  floating  pieces, 
so  that  it  was  with  difficulty  we  could  use  our  oars.  Our  progress 
was  therefore  slow;  and  having  passed  two  rivers,  off  which  there 
was  much  heavy  ice,  we  were  stopped  at  nine  o'clock  under  th©^ 
very  precipice  where  the  Fury  was  wrec^d.  It  being  l^w  water, 
and  the  northward  motion  of  the  ice  ceasing  at  elevenw  it  was 
evident  that  it  would  soon  return  on  us;  so  that  the  boMs  were 
unloaded  as  quickly  as  possible,  and  hauled  up  on  the  beach. 

It  was  not  a  minute  too  soon;  since  the  ice  immediately  ca«ae 
down,  and  twwjoes  near  us  were  Utoken  to  pieces,  with  a  violent 
crash,  so  as  ta  form  a  ridge  of  huq^ moc^  close  to  the  shore.  The 
distiincJB  which  we  had  thus  made  was  eight  miles;  and  it  was  a 
singnlar  coincidence  that  we  experienced  this  narrow  escape,  not 
only  where  the  Fury  was  wrecked,  buljm  the  same  day  that  she 
was  lost,  eight  years  before.  - 

2nd.  We  hoped  that  the  flood  wo«l|^  have  caused  the  ice  to  open 
and  shift  in  the  night;  but  it  becam<S  so  much  worse  that  we  were 
obyged  to  haul  still  higher,  and  to  cut  a  dock  for  the  boats  in  a 
lac|*  huminock:  a  position  and  a  delay  which  gave  the  cai^nters 
thigpportunity  of  finishing  some  work  that  had  been  left  incom<- 
pleUk.  SoDde  rain  in  the  course  of  the  da|r  loosened  stones  from  the 
precipices,  one  of  which  strucka  boat's  mast;  aild  we  found,  from 
r^i%*""*"*"  '"'***^'  '^*'  *•**  minity  of  this  precipice,  which  was 
^,i|l^  hundred  and  seventy  feet  high,  w<w  ft  place  of  danger. 


m 


I  ,     ..  .  ' 


■% 


v#. 


TO  TBE  ABcne  Ktaiotn.. 


401 


This  seems  but  a  cool  remark  to  make.  whAi«aiM.t.  -  ^iii*  ■*  • 
to  .^h  ..  .Hitad.,  impended  overlr  J;.T"»d "tali!'  "Jw* 
wkrt  «  1  know,  the  effects  at  a  thaw  in  throwini  down  tiZ,  .^li 
which  the  i,«rioa.  ice  hu  .plit    I„  reallti,  S  ww,«iSi™  rf 

through  atid  all  that  was  still  before  usJ      '^""^^^  'T  ^'"'^L 
v^uiiiHf*,**^  "  '''■*  *  '"°«'  intoleraille  day  of  rain  and  sleet 
S  it  dearTrthe  YM^  the  freezing  point  during  the  nightrn'r 
ainoved  bv  fhi  J^f/^H^'ng  evening,  while  we  were  constinUy 
?.S!   re  the  falling  of  s^;ic«  from  the  cliff.    5th.  The  uS 

^SS  toTe  trtr'''-r^'*"K*  ''''  ^'^  "««  once  mo,S%«d^ 
S    !♦  K-^  ■      northward,  and  the  temperature  a  degree  lower 

*  niSi.oi  •?? "  V  '""^f"*  *"«'  *  «^»"'«d  to  the  northwaXand  saw* 
a  probability  of  our  reaching  a  safer  beach  two  oVthWmU^  „(? 

aoie  uimcuity;  and  some  watei  shortly  afterwards  nnonin.  J. 
passed  more  piiscipices,  and  suc^ded  in  ^ngTfeTS*r7l 
ther  along  the  shore.  We  then  found  theVate?to  the  "ortLaS 
,  to  be  a  solid  mass  of  ice,  and  were  obliged  to  haul  up  the  Wta 
once  more,  on  a  beach  ^vhere  we  were  alSpst  as  much  annoved  ?; 
falling  stones  as  we  bad-been  in  our  Iwt  ^itbn?      '     ^  **  ^^ 

beyfndToo  in  th?r!^'7*^  at  so-  i„  the  night,  an*  did  not  Hue 
oeyona  40  in  the  day:  during  which  the  outer  ice  moved  a  little 
under  a  strong  ea?t  wind,  but  without  an/ useful  ^ults  to  "^^ 

fn  a:?oSA?b"e^'^''''^  r*  »«'»«"'«f'>"t  we  d^dlt  fiJ?,* 
on  account  of  the  falling  rocks,  nor  could  we  afford  fuel  for  cookl 

TZTl'iZ''''''!^'^'^-  ?**•«"  theeighth,tKimh^Vte„tl 

o";;imp"rirnt":"''  "'"  ^^  «"**"""'  *'  -^  rate  it  secured 

9flj.  The  ice  in  th&  channel  streamed  off  to  the  north,  and  at 

!nd  were  5£  5?'  T/u"*'*."'*'  P"«*^  more  than  two  Hours, 
we  could  in?  ?*'«^„*°  '••"I  °~«^  "gged  ice  to  the  first  beach 
while  we  haSlSr  ■**  T  •»"'*  '^'y^-d  •»  to  the  northward, 
ti.irm„r«»  "'^  ™"'"  '^"'^  °"'  *«»*•  "n****-  tbe  precipice.    The 

Uierfnometer  was  never  more  than  34"  in  Uie  day,  and  fell  to  si» 
at  night :  It  «ras  absolute  winter  still.  ^  " 

,«1  * 


.  / 


#, 


I, 


1                1 

■ 

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4-  ■ 
*  ■ 

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4 

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_1_    _ 

t    4 

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.     ■,»•■ 

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■  ■'.             •  • 

.■    iy' 

;■      ,-.-     * 

.  \ 

< 

\ 

■    »*•■•' W^V*»illi***t 


■'ii. 


408 


SECOND  VOTAOB   OF  DISCOVERT 


.Vf'" 


lOM.  It  being  fine  weather  on  this  day^-nre  were  able,  by  light- 
ening the  boats,  to  traclc  them  along  the^  shore  to  a  bfetter  beacb 
half  a  mile  off,  where  we  took  our  position  at  the  foot  of  a  cafrr. 
cade,  bringing  forward  what  we  had  left,  l  ith.  We  attempted  to 
move  again  the  next  day;  but  were  Aoon  stopped  by  the  ice,  and 
glad  to  return  to  the  place  where  we  had  a  good  position  for  the 
tents  and  an  excellent  harbour  for  the  boats.  12/A.  On  the  twelfth 
we  were  imprisoned  by  snow  and  wind,  and  by  the  absolute  closure 
of  the  ice. 

.  "'J-,^*»»«**^W'«  no  Chang©  to-day,  Mr.  Thorn  was  sent  with 
a  boat  to  Fury  beach,  for  three  weeks*  provisions;  there  being 
open  water  in  that  directioiT,  though  there  was  none  to  the  north 

*l  "^  1-J^  H®^  ***"* ''™™  **'«  no'^h  on  the  next  day:  but 
though  the  effect  of  the  wind  was  to  produce  a  pool  of  water  near 
us.  It  did  not  open  the  passage.  The  squalls  were  so  strone  as  to 
endanger  our  tents,  and  to  disperse  the  cascade  in  mist.  Thenlcht 
temperature  was  stMl  31°  or  32°,  and  that  of  th6  day  wa8  4B°. 

«.!  f!^1:  "°u  .*''i''*'*  t?"  ^r*  '^*'*»'»»  *°  «»y  *hat  he  had  reach- 
ed  Fury  beach  in  three  bburs,  had  hauled  the  boat  up  about  two 
roues  off  on  his  way  back,  and  expected  to  return  to  us  by  the  next 
tide.  I  accordingly  sent  two  men  to  assUt;  buttHe  boat  could  not 
he  got  off,  and  they  came  back  to  us,  therefore,  with  some,  of  the 
provisions.  I6th.  On  proceeding  to  examine  into  the  state  of  thinirs, 
next  day,  I  found  that  the  boat  Could  not  be  brought  along  shore 
loaded,  in  consequence  of  the^  of  the  ice  j  mh,  and  on  this  and 

h^«„5'  7'"^*  *'**"'^J''**  .*')<*««  which  she  'contained  were 
brought  to  our  present  position,  and  the*  boat  was  dragged  up  to 
remain  till  we  were  all  once  more  re-united.  The  w?ather  was 
8UI1  colder,  being  30°  at  night,  while  some  fresh  snow  that  fell  re- 
mained  till  noon. 

»nnw  oJS  ?I1-*L^"  ^Sf  "^  'J"*  ^''J^  "'*'■*  ^'^  »  cold  wind  with  much 
SpI  ^  /'"''^  Y?""'**''  "*"'  ■'  '»**'»"•  '^^«*«'  on  the  twenty.first ;  the 
thermometer  sinking  to  29°,  and  the  boat's  harbour  being  covered 
with  new  ice  on  this  and  the  following  day.  That  ice  was  two 
inches  thick  on  the  twenty  third ,  but  in  the  evening  the  .welth^J 
became  calm,  and  it  did  not  freeze  on  that  night    A  whX  wm 

irl  ;il  w'  "'*"•  There^wa.  no  change  on^the  folloliJ^  d^^ 
and  the  ice  was  every  where  unbroken.  »  "»/» 

rJt'^t.tt^!!!'^  northerly  wind  sprung  up,  and  the  tide  rose  eight 
feet,  but  without  any  effbct  on  the  Ice.  There  was  snow  again  in 
the  evening,  at  29°  of  temperature.  On  the  following  dily  it  fell  to 
»h.\f"M.*  iT?*.®  ,'*''*  T'^h  stronger:  it  was  left  to  us  to  guess 

«.^-.?i*  ""''  ""••  V^  '"^  "»""  "^^'^^^  to  the  southward,  and  the 
pressurQ  was  so  great  on  our  shore,  as  to  foroe  many  beavV  masses 

Mind  aJd"«ae!^       *''*"  "'  '^'*  ^''  ""'^'**'*  ""'*«'^*"^  p"^^'^ 


>. 


TO  THS   AKCTIC   ttXOIOirS. 


403 


s«5  I  i®  "!u  °^  **•"  **'*®  ^*"  "»"«  "^'^i  »»"*  as  it  was  sliill  blow, 
ing  Lard  from  the  north,  the  ice  passed  quickly  to  the  southVary" 
when,  veering  to  the  north-west,  it  ail  began  to  leave  JheZre! 
and  m  two  hours,  the  whole  coast  was  clefred  as  far  as  Z  cou W 
see.  At  midnight  it  blew  a  gale,  witl,  heavy  gusto  frSiXm^ 
cpices,  so  that  our  boats  could  scafeely  lie  whfre  they  were^  anT 
Z'Ur^^i'^^l^^'^'^^'''''^''  frozen,  that  the^reZ'  now 
at£^tn?ht  **''*''*'*^''*'*''  ^^''^ometer  being 

A^t^\^^  moderated  at  noon,«nd  we  embarked,  procfeeding  an- 
der  sajf  along  shore,  and  exposed  to  veiy  heavy  squalls  froto  the 
precipices,  whiclr  rendered  extreme  car/necessar™ :  whe™?aS! 
ing  Batty  bay,  wereached  Elwin  bay  at  midnight  We  then  stood 
for  a  beach  about  a  mil^further  north,  and  a8**it  was  now  blow- 

n*;h«  W*;^"**''  P*?^w?"':  "^5*"'  *'°^''  *  ^^rm  of  snow,  which, 
in  the  bight,  covered  all  the  land.  ' 

S?jAf  It  moderated,  however,  towards  morning  and  we  pat  to 
sea  b#  four  o'clock,  standing  fortheedge  of  the  packed  i^,  iil 
the  directum  of  Cape  York.    We  then  ran  alongft,  in  hopw  of 
J?,'^'.  W?"^  P»*t"ee  i  but  It  continued  to  lead  us  out  of  our  cSrse. 
till  It  Jinned  to  Leopard's  island,  so  as  to  embay  us;  and  as  tlS 
wind  was  iibn  increasing,  it  was  with  great  difficulty  we  wea- 
r   thered  it,  so  ite  to  attain  the  land  about  a  mile  north  of  Cape  Sen- 
pings,  yet  without  being  able  to  get  tp  the  beach,  which  wi£  everv 
where  blocked  up  by  heavy  ice.    There  was  snow,  and  the  ranee 
ot  the  thermometer  in  the  twenty.four  hours  was  from  S0«  to  S6» 
..^^^  SOth.  We  were  obliged  to  sleep  in  our  boats,  in  no  comfortable' 
-yTrosition  J  and  as  our  place  was  not  tenable,  we  re-embarked  at 
six  m  the  morning,  with  a  southerly  wind.  We  soon  met  with  the 
ice  pack,^and  ran  along  it  up  Barrow's  strait;  but  to  no  pu 
pose,  aji  there  wad  no  exit  any  where.    We  therefore  stdod  ik 
the  shore,  and  found  a«ood  position  for  pitching  the  t^nts  a» 
hauling  up  the  boats;  wbde  it  was  near  a  monntain  that  p|t>mised 
us  a-yiew  of  the  distant  ice;  the  pack  being  so  high  abbve  the 
boats'  gunwalts  that  we  could  not  sei  over  it  \ 

aiaft  It  snowed  all  the  miming,  aiid  we  removed  the  bUtsto 
the  ground  ice  forithe  sake  of  launchiiig  them  more  easily.  We 
found  here  many  remains  of  Esquimaux  huts,  and  some  fox- 
trapi;  and  as  we  saw  maI^^  seals,  the  reason  for  the  natives  fix 
ing  in  this  place  was  apparent.  The  hill  itself  was  a  peninsula, 
joined  to  the  main  by  a  long  bank,  or  rather  a  neck  of  land,  about 
two  miles  broad,  and  on  each  side  wad  ft  bay;  while,  as  in  neither 
of  these  the  i«e  had  yet  broken  up,  we  had. a  sufficient  proof  of 
the  severity  of  the  season.  All  the  sea  to  the  north  was  hence 
seen  to  be  completely  full  of  solid  ice,  though  it  drifted  occasioii. 
ally,  near  the  land,  under  the  influence  of  the  tides.  • 
August  had  been  a  month  of  peculiar  anliety ;  and  a  succes- 


<% 


i 


Vl 


''X''- 


•vS^- 


M 


il 


.*^^ 


404 


H 


:.-'^  . 


'HECONO  votAoe  or  DiaCOVSRT 


:^' 


sioH  of  hopes^and  ^hsdppointments  severely  tried  the  patience  of 
an.    un  quitting  Fary  beacii,  appearances  were  so  favourablei   i 
that  every  advance  to  (yiy,  or  point,  or  cape,  along  the  doist,  flat- 
tered us  with  the  prospect  of  soon  reaching  the  northern  edge  of 
the  Kf^and  then  of  surmounting  the  greatest  difliculty  in  the  way.* 
by  making^a  passage  across  Prince  Regent's  inlet.   By  the  tinwl 
however,  that  we  had,  reached  7S»  of  latitude,  we  were  unfortuf 
A    iL  °«J.""«>  »  Jong  by  the  state  of- the  ice,  that  it  became 
doubtful  If  we  should  succeed  during  the  present  season. 

Here  was  one  of  thevmain  trials  of  our  patience;  and  a  look- 
out  house,  built  in  the  cliifs  by  thf  men,  became  the  chief  thing 
which   afforded  them  any  amusement,  while  that  consisted  iS 

!J«     ^iS'l.*!'*  ^^*"«^  "  *.''®  ^*  '^^^'^»  ''^^  »»>»  <«W  not  ar.  -^ 
nve.  ^Ihnf  detention  reconciled  those  who  had  first  opposed  this 
proceedingjMunnecessai^.,  to  our  past  labour  in  bringing  on 
provisions  tiT  this^lace :  since  we  were  thus  eiiabled  to  k£p  np  ai 
better  idlowance  to  the  people.    That  consisted  of  half  a  pound 
of  meat,  with  a  pound  of  bread  and  a  pint^f  cocoa,  divided  into 
breakri»t  and  supper,  which  were  regulated,  in  point  of  time,  just 
as  our  travelling  permitted.  All  game  waTconSidered  as  ah  iitra    • 
and  luxurious  allowance;  but  what  we  obtained  was  very  little.  ' 
since  it  amounted  but  to  three  foxes  and  as  many  hares,  with  i 
couple  of  duoks.    All  the  waterfowl  had  disappeared  about  the 
end  of  the  month.  .  «"Vmi,  iu« 

The  boats  sailed  neariy  alike;  but  being  made  of  mahogany, 
proved  so  heavy,  that  it  gave  us  great  trouble  to  haul  them  up  on 
the  b«ach ;  so  that  the  whole  party  was  required  to  draw  up  one, 
while  even  this  often  required  the  assistance  of  tackle.  This 
work  also  proved  an  occasional  source  of  great  danger,  as  well 
as  inconvenience,  since  the  ice  sometimes  drifted  down  on  the 
shore  so  rapidly,  that  ttiese  boats  ran  the  imminent  risk,  on  those 

^M^r^  *  ^^^        ***'^'*"  "^^  ^°"*'*  ^'  *''®'"  *"*"  *  P***^" 

The  c^t  which  we  had  thus  passed  consisted  entirely  of  lime 
stone,  often  presenting  precipices  of  five  hundred  feet  in  heieht 

Sl^im^r  f^fjl^j:  T  'f'^'    ^'^^y  ^»»«y  •»»"  "''ks  of  a 
Stream  or  of  itaT  bed:  but  thcife  seemed  never  to  convey  water 

wa7ti  be""^  ""?  "^  "••  ■"°''-    '^""=*''^-  ""y  ^4etaUon 

4n?Ii!!;^'To'^!""  ''rV*'"*"y«ay'that<^«  extremes  wew 
40»  plyiTand  80'  plus,  and  that  the  mean  was  31"  plus,  which,  re-- 

coornari^nT*'  '  ^"*^''!^  *"  *"'  '^"""^''J''  ^""^^  *"»*  following 


sparison; 

i839i  DiV*    ."     ."     ;     : 

I     K   ■ 

v.-  t    . 


^' 


^  +68  4-33  +  40.87 

-  +  54  +  94-+  36.51 

-  +  40  +  30 -t  31.33 


■ .  '-m' 


3I#». 


,,»-4, 


*.--M 


'•■■, 

■'rii 

4 

tw 

rn 

. 

re 

• 

» 

* 

A' 

» 
•* 

TO  THS  ARCTIC  BSOtONb - 


406' 


*    > 


SgP 


>,^ 


CHAPTER  LII. 


./ 


^^ 


.V 


l^v 


ysv 


wieiy  «u  the  Bight  of  four  Mack  wlulea  and  n'anv  whii>  «»«  • 
There  waa  no  change  on  Sonday.    sdlS  «  n-  K    5      ?""• 

America,  whence  lohlained  a  8thtTcaneWar!n,rif!   fS"  ?' 
moao-pent  on  one  aid^  and,  onf  e  otWr  S  ?i^^^^^ 

plate  in  the  fixed  ice.  *    ^°  *^*"»"««  *«»ok 

9<^to  15«A.  The  three  first  of  these  davo  »•■«  lib.  ^I^  ^' 

iSw'sstSt^rp^^^^^^^ 

centuie  ?  ve?v  n^JIat  ?*Sent  *  inM;overed  with  solid  ice,  ex- 

i?lffi^h«~  "^S^fe*'*"'*  ^^^  isthmus  ne#fLeopild»s 
iSfSr"*'"'*''*'"^*'***^®®''^'"  equally  dull  and  uiXrm 

05  the  following  da^    itlk.  Two  fozn  were  killlPS;!  ^TW 

-LCBuinga  th  iriin  case  beneath  a  cgwifc?^^^^^^  'V    ^I 

rcMhed  the  iiack«Hi;«  nf  ♦kril     **u^       ."***"**  ""O"*  we     •     \      I 
^cainejiack  edge  of  the  ice  atJhejuncHonef  Barrow's  sfa^^^  || 


« 


^11 


1^ 


•         *     • 


"I' 


406 


'^\ 


SECOND  VOTAOK 


much  of 
contiiiii> 
present 
blocked 
ice  we  had, 
>,and  not 
n^ontbe 
ugh  this* 
ler  triklf 

In  moderate  x 
inty-fourth, 
.  .  'it -only re- 

Isth.  On  the  next  day  the 


.  camet 
Hhoped^to^ 


\-. 


:k 


Regent's  inlet,  afte 
which  had  been  liewly.  for 
id  mass,  giving  niAopes 
advanced  si  thatobW  w 
leavy  i^;  s#hat  %  were 
Jiough  ^«|Y|ffectii#ithl8 
:jninutp|||pon,  a^M  ice 
grea[tlfl|Sp     If  ariy  on 

th<iugh«t'Mpinediitli- 

'eathep, -^e'  thermon^ete 

rSs  to  return  to  Fary  fe^i^, „„  »„„  .„^^  „„  ^u, 

more  favourable,  and  the  in.8ii(Jre  ice  in  motion  ;  a  lit 

being^^also  seen  off  C«q>e.  Ileppings.   We  therefore  pre- 

to  embark;  and  I  burlik  fn  the  same  pIace,U  fresh  ac- 

ht  6f  our. proceedings  (^ulltotentions,  with  a  sketch  of  our 

^.t  noon,  we  sailed  with  a  frm breeze  for  oor  return  «  hopie;'* 
and,  arriving  at  the  Cape,  found%pIear,  but  very  narrow  passage, 
between  th0  main  ice  and  that  onpiore,  just  allowing  the  boatato 
^^  p^s  sinijly :  after  which,  standiAgl|  thrpugh  water  which  sheath  - 
ed  them  two  inchte  thick  with  ice,'||B  arrived  at  our  former  piTsi- 
tipq,  near  Elwin  bay,  by  six  o'clock.  We  could  4iot,  however 
approach  the^shore,  and  W4}re  at  la^^bligcd  to  sleep  in  the  boats,' 
in  H  creek  not  &r  from  it,  during  a  very  raw,  disagreeable  nieht 

of  .'^QOW..  ,  *         -I 

,  2fl«A.  Attempting  to  cross  Elwin  bay^the  next  morning,  we 
wei^mikch  bes^t  and  stopped  by  the  floes,  and  were  finally  obttg- 
ed,  at  mid-day,  to  haul  into  a  cove  in  the  ice,  when  we  pitched  our 
.  tent  on  it.  itth.  By.  six  on  the  following  morning,  thd  thermome- 
ter nad  fallen  to  sSero,  though  it  rose  to  20»  in  the  day ;  and  we ' 
remained  prisoners:  gatkilng^  someWbat  towards  a  dinner,  in  a 
fox  and  tw;o  guHs.  28<A.  I'he  icfc  became  mdre  loose  pn  the  next 
dayj  and  we  departed,  mjiking  a  very  slow  progress  through 
heavy  bay  ice;  when  a  gaI6  pomtng  on  at  ten  in  the  morning,  in^ 
creased  so  fast  that  we  could  carry  no  sail  by  midrday,  and  were 
obliged  to  put  asboi%  on  the  land  ice.  ' 


We  were,  unfortunately,  uhde> 
we  had  yet  seen,  two/miles  fros'' 
having  but  ^x  feet  of  beach  ben^ 
feet  above  us.  .  29M»  A  s£<eedy.|j 
lessary;  .but  an  eastei 
ire  detained  the  next  dl 
VHhe,  be^ig  the  shooting 
^\a.  ^e  were  now  redi, 
havin«r  long  been  on  two-tm 

A  motion  in  the  icgx., 
this  bay ;  but  we  soon  fowd  tli 


jnost  terrific  precipice  that 

lorth  cape^  of  Batty  bay: 

Ts  which  rose  five  liundred 

was  therefore  absolutely 

tnging  the  |ay  ice  on  \i8,  we 

ily.  con|Solatlon,  in  the  j&ean- 

S^oxes,  with;-  some  4d(m'  and 

If  allowance  .of  provision^^ 

-to-pasB  the  north  cape  of 
luthjern  one  was  complete- 


\ 


\ 


,  « 


.#  -. 


■  f*-^ 


^^  ^  JM^**U4^ 


i  i 

aiwi 

i 

k 

H 

iji--  \ 

w 

v-:t 

•V 


TO  THB   ARCTIO  RKOI0N8. 


IIHf 

f  ■      ... 

-5f- 

.-  ■  ■  ■' 

ite- 

■^it 

^:^        11 

ly  blocked  by  heavy  and  solid  masses:  while  «<>«..  m...i.  i  k  • 

which,  h»w.T.r  frequent  th.7G*;^Sr» IS   K  '''"■'«  "* 
Krimooy  which  *.«'  ^Mta  «Xi  eJ^SJi'?  ''"  '""  «>• 

[  „,     0^  Jhi..  between  these  differ^nrbodre^    Am  jr"  "/'    "^^^  ^^^ 
-   Itoss,  who  had  aiw&v»  i.p^  Jk-        *    Amonrf  them,  Commander 

of  Se  hopeful,  at  kLt  ne^y'  rt" St!'  ^"^k^^  ''"'  ^''»'»''' 
inigl.t  have  arisen  i^As  m^nd  dU^  t  .e  &':i''"''T?."''''^. 

f  ii^^'<^'»  n>y  excellent  friend  had  ni2i,cd     Mv?i    ♦*  JT"* 

always  d  ScuU  AiCisT  S?l^^^^^  * 

pr^ress     miun  ^fast  days  of  th?  a^pnth,  Com- 


r 


■^'^\ 


.   \ 


'  ,)". 


.'.) 


f      ! 


4 

<* 


408 


SECOND  TOYAOB  OF  OMCOVaBT 


mander  Ross  seemed  to  have  more*tban  hesitated  respecting  oar 
escape;  and,  on  the  twentieth,  I  must  needs  say »  with  whatever 
regret,  1  be^n  myself  to  question  whether  we  should  aucceed  in 
passing  the  barrier  of  ice  this  season ,  in  which  case,  there  could 
be  no  resource  for  us  but  another  winter,  another  year,  I  should  say, 
'  on  Fury  beach ,  if,  indeed,  it  should  be  the  fortune  of  any  one  to 
■arvive  after  another  such  year  as  the  three  last 

If  it  was  the  fruitless  attempt  to  cross  the  strait  on  the  twentieth 
which  had  brought  my  mind  to  this  state  of  feeling,  the  effect  was 
not  to  be  indulged;  nor  did  my  opinions  ^nd  in  any  degree  to  alter 
my  resolution  as  to  our  conduct,  or  rather  as  to  my  own,  respect- 
ing the  nien  Under  my  charge.    While  there^  was  the  remotest 
^   chance  for  us,  it  was  my  duty  to  persevetv,  as  far  and  as  long  at 
.,   least  as  I  should  be  justified  by  the  state  of  our  provisions :  since, 
if  we  should  be  obliged  to  leave  our  boats  at  the  furthest  point 
.^  where  wo  could  succeed  in  pimping  them, -We  should  be  Obliged  to 
travel  back,  eighty  miles,  over  a  road  so  rug|^d  that  it  would  ne- 
^  cessarily  occupy  a  very  l^mg  time,  and,  with  that^  induce  a  great 
^    consumption  of  our  stores;  which  we  could  not  afford  to  have  in* 
creased  beyond  what  we  had  actu>|lly  taken,  from  the  great  labour 
of  transport  and  our  very  limited  means  of  carriage.  . 
ft\    Having,  as  I  already  noticed,  left  the  chest  jaf  minerals  near 
'  ii  notable  cairn,  as  being  too  heavy  for  us  to  carry  further,  I  must 
here  point  out  its  latitude  as  73^  5i';  that  having  been  deduced 


\ 


X     \,\-\% 


^y, 


>; 


".!- 


•H' 


|V 


longitude 

is  90°  west,  it  occupies  the  place  at  which  I  had  marked  Croker*s 
mountain,  in  1818. '  I  can  therefo^have  no  doubt  that  the  land 
on  which  I  Aow  stood  Was  the  same  that  I  had  seen  in  my  first 
voyage,  and  which  I  had  been  able  to  observe  very  distinVU^y  from 
the  vicinity  of  the  mountain  to  which  I  theh  gave  the  name  of 
Hope^s  monument.  ''  ' 
^  Since  that  period,  it  has  been  considered  as  belonging  to  what 
have  been  termed  Leopold's  islands ;  thus  receiving  a  new  name 
which  I  cannot  admit.  I  must  therefore  restore  to  it  ^hat  one 
why;h  I  originally  conferred,  and  in  assuming  a  right  granted  to 
all  discoverers,  reclaim,  of  course,  tbie  right  also  of  discovery  over 
g  land  of  which  I  then  took  possession.  Since  this  spot  is  alio  a 
portion  of  the  mainland,  and  not  that  island  which  .has  heen^  as- 
serted, in  the  more  recent  voyage  to vWhich  I  have  thus  referred,  it 
is  equally  my  duty  to  point  out  that  the  discovery  of  the  nor^^gB^t 
cape  of  tiie  American  continent  thAs'jbelongs  to  myself,  and  fo  the 
original  voyage  which  I  made  to  those  pil^em  seas.  Finally,  in 
thus  restoring  the  original  designatioja-of  this  spot,  I  must  o|aally 
assert  my  right  to  establish  every  thii^  else  connected  w^ll  it,  as  it 
itands  in  my  own  charts,  and  tberefoi^^  re[dace  tiie  names  which 
I  then  conferred  on  several  objects  in  its  vicinity. 


V  • 


^ 


A      tf 


m 


TO  THS  ^^IC  RSOIOKS. 


409 


Inthus  speakine  on  thia  subject,  I  must  not  be  accused  of  ego- 
ffl^  of  an  ambition  for  insignificant  fame.    It  is  the  cause  of 
l^?-^  7^*°n'  °^  every  di^verer,  at  least,  which  I  am  pleading. 
It  IS  butan&iall  reward  which  ever  falls  to  their  share,  in  recom- 
f^w^A^Jr^  hardships  and  hazards;  and  if  they  are  thus  to  be 
robbed  of  Oie  onTy  name  and  fame  they  can  ever  hope  to  obtain,  the 
effect  will  be  to  check  their  ardour,  in  addition  to  the  injustice  thus 
committed.    The  injury  inflicted  on  Columbus  by  the  ignorance, 
neglec  ,  and  torpidity  of  the  world,  is  an  example  to  be  shunned 
not  followed:  and  though  the  greatest  of  modern  discoveries  cannot 
bear  the  most  remote  parallel  to  his,  it  must  not  be  forgotten  that 
it  :/l«  t-      Tf^  ?*?"»  however^small,  is  equally  his  right,  and  that 
It  18,  to  himself,  not  less  precious  than  the  repute  of  greater  deeds  is 
to  him  who  holds  a  loftier  position  in  the  world's  eye. 
^    I  he  circumstances  under  which  we  were  now  placed,  served  also 
to  p?]oire  another  point. bearing  essentially  on  my  voyage  of  1818, 
and  on  the  discussions  to  which  it  afterwards  gavte  rise,    the  fact! 
indeed,  was  but  too  surely  proved  for  our  safety  or  hopes/it  would 

f  !r  J?  ^.  '^"®''  ?'■  "'  **  P"^®^"*'  •"«*  that  been  falsi  which  I 
had  asserted  to  have  been  then  true;  had  Barrow's  strait  been  inca- 
pable of  freezing;  had  it  never  been,  and  was  never  to  be,  frozen 
over,  as  has  been  most  confidently  asserted  of  kte. 

It  was  now  frozen,  or  at  least  had  hithert^Ken  so,  durine  the 
preceding  winter  and^e  present  summer,  even  im^tothis  time, 
into  a  solid  sea,  from  Admiralty  inlet  to  Cn^&l  iJHHid  this  i« 
precisely  what  I  found  it  to  be  in  IftM.  I  have  equBmde  doubt 
from  the  state  of  things  With  us  during  all  the  yeareof  our  present 
detenUon,  that  this  had  been  its  condition  during  tiie  whole  period- 
while  there  are  even  proofs  of  tiiis,  in  the  endeavours  of  tiie  Whaler^ 
topeneti^te  into  Lancaster  strait,  and  in  the  failQres  which  tiiev 
experienced.  ^  .  ,         >    ■r. 

If  the  assertion  which  I  have  thus  controvertfed  is  therefore 
untrue,  so  are  there  collateral  facts  to  prove  tiiat  tiie  condition  of 
this  strait  in  1818  must  have  been  what  I  then  represented  it  to  b^ 
It  had  been  a  calm  season,  being  tiie  most  unfavourable  weather  for   • 
navigating  tiiese  seas,  since  it  is  only  through^j^^of  tiie  winds 
that  the  ice  cart  be  opened  and  dispersed,  as»n3H8|Pare  indebted 
to  tiie  northerly  gales  of  summer  fwr  whateverprogress  they  canV 
make.    In  tiiat;sumiher  there  was  but  one  gale  while  we  were  on^ 
this  part  of  the  coast,  lasting  two  days;  and  as  tiiis  was  from  the 
south,  not  the  north,  its  effect  was  to  bring  up  tiie  ice  instead  of  dis- 
persing It,  so  as  to  ensure  tiie  result  in  question.  If  not  to  have 
produced  It.     Thence  it  w/is,  that  when  we  arrived  off  Lancaster 
sound  on  the  tiiirty-fir^t  of  August,  the  pack  of  ice  was  still  to  the 
northward  of  it;  while  that  on  the  soutii  ^ide  was,  beyond  all  doubt, 
in  the  same  stote  tiiat  we  now  found  it,  forming  a  solid  unbroken 


^" 


I 


V     .  1 


'-f 


,\ 


A 


:i 


I'  -I 


■  t.        ■ 


.-•     V 


V  1 


V',-:  -'S 


'Vf 


-^i^- 


.-^■s- 


^ 


i     ; 


<  8KC01ID  VOTAftB  OV  DISCOVERT 

*»?ir^«*»  "ide  to  side  of  the  alrait,  which  neither  ship 
ipuM  peinetrate.  ^ 

.  'wring  the  last  days  of  our  detention  in  this  pljice,  when,  in  addi- 
tion to  what  we  ^lieved  the  jippossibility  of  succeeding  in  our 
attempt  to  leave  this  country,  it  Jiad  fai;ther  beeome  doubtful  whe- 
ther the  state  of  the  ice  would  allow,  us  to  return  to  Fury  beach,  or 
even  to  surmountji  small  part  of  the  way  to  this  only  h6pe  that 

**?".'*"i^2JiyBiBil'*"**!^'»  ''"d  become  truly  serious,  not  simply 
critica|jjPWt"M' iiied  #the3wenty.fifth  of  September  for  our 
departure,  should  the  sledges  be  then  ready,  and,  from  that  date  we 
had  but  ten  days*  provisions  leftist  half  allowance,  vtMle  we  had' 
not  fuel  enough  remaining  to  melt  the  snow  whiclTwould  be 
required  for  our  ijonsumptioto  of  wateft  thus  did  our  arrival  at 
Batty  bay  turn  out  to  be  a  most  providential  circumstance,  as  there^ 
were,  from  this  point,  but  thirty-two  miles  of  direct  distance/ 
remaining;  a  line  whidi  all  the  intricacies  and  obstructions  of  th^ 
route  could  not  well  Increase  to  more  ^an  forty.  %        ■ 

At  this  time  it  was,  that  we  began  to  experience  the  greateit  suf- 
ferings we  had  yet  endured  from  th6  cold.    We  had  been  unable  to 
carry  With  us  pur  usual  quantity  of  clothei  and  of  cantas,  so  that  we 
were  most  fa  want  of  protecUon  fromjthe  weathw  wh^n  we  w6re 
least  able  td  bear  up  aeainst  its  aever^  There' was  nli^ow  the 
employment  that  would  have  aided  liiWresist  it,  by  kee 
action;  and  perhaps,  still  worse,  the  diminution  of  our  hokj 
the  latter  days  of  this  month  tended  to  diminish  that  dher^*^ 
^^"^}^y  which,  assuredly,  the  animal  heat  is  maintained, 
effect  of  the  exciting,  and,  reversely,  of  the  depressing  passioipMB 
.the  h^t-generaUng  power,  cannot  fail  ta,|f  known  to  everfone^ 
®!fiS^?®'i5°*  *°  medical  tofin  alone,  atlough  they  may  not  ex- 
prRB  tra^r  knowIedg|in  the  «ame  terms,  and  perhaps  may  not  even 
^ve  ttotfded  the  facfetill  pointed  out;  and  while  it  ought  to  be 
W®*?"f*!y'^"*'**'°n  with  every  officer  having  charge  of 
rilBh  m  these  frozen  climates,  to  maintain  the  spirits  and  hoiws  of 
his  men,  so  may  Ijidd  it  to  those  rules  and  precautions  which  I  for- 
merly laid  down  on  this  juBject    Be  all  this  as  it  may,  we  were 
Y  ^®^7  Wi*  "^  r«||' miserable;  and  from  what  I  have  for- 
'S*  merly  ^^  6^^y  a^m  constitution,  I  l»v^  utaiion  to  believe,  that 
wM^r  my^WBfferipgs  mffit  Jiale  been,  every  one  of  the 
party ^Mmiigpfeifb-miserablycolifthah  myselC    The  prospect 
;*.befor^^m  Ifecase  of  being  oblfgf^  to  return,  was  even  worse; 
unler*^^'^''  *•• "^ '  —  ii  .     ...  » 

with 

*^  *  n  ^5^*  V*^*^*  *^"'**  ®*'"**^P  "■  *°  accom'plTsh  Jiis  undertaking 

Duri«t  the  latter  part  of  this  month  our  siiibcess  in  procurine 

foxes  and  ptarmigans  had  b^n  considlrable;  and  while  our  whole 

^  pfirty  was  not  so  largess  to  prevent  this  supply  from  being  of  real 


€ 


% 


t 
t 
I 

a 
■  e 

S 

tl 

V 

n 

C( 

U 

le 
w 
to 
hi 
01 

di 
M 

bi 
an 


KslSm 


m     ■  ■  m 


^€?- 


u  ■  , 


-:^ 


.-;/;).: 


^\: 


.K'**  C->- 


•  '»'■ 


«v 


:J>>. 


TO  THS  ABCTIC  BKOIONS. 


■■:'  1  i 


411 


use,  so  did  It  form  a  valuable  addiUon,both  in  quantity  and  qualitv 
to  our  much,  too  scanty  stock  of  provisions.  There  was  great  reason 
to  dread  the  effect  of  a  narrotv  diet  on  the  men:  not  merely  on  their 
health  or  strength,  but  on  their  very  lives.  All  of  u.^  had  already 
suflered  from  this  a|  various  times;  but  the  chances  of  irremediable 
evil  were  mcreasing  every  day. 

A  review  of  the  weather  showed  this  to  have  been  the  coldest 
September  which  we  had  recorded* ,»  fact  which  1  attributed  to 
the  permanence  and  proximity  of  the  great  bodies  of  ice  and  snow 
which  surrounded  us,  and  especially  to  the  total  want  of  that^oflSF 
sea  which  has  always  such  an  influence  on  the  temperature.  This 
month  had  been  noted  for  the  tranquillity  of  the  winds,  and  thence 
was  there  no  cause  adequate  to  the  disruption  of  the  ice.  Tho" 
wholtthnd,  also,  ever  since  the  middle  of  August,  had  been  entirely 
coyeriB  with  snow,  so  that,  but  for  the  appearance  of  the  sun,  every 
thing  bore  the  aspect  of  deep  winter.  .. 

^  Having  formerly  noUced  the  necessity  which  compelled  us  to 
leave  at  North-east  Cap6  the  largest  collection  of  minerals  which 
we  had  made,  I  may  now  add,  that  I  afterwards  pointed  out  the  spot 
to  Captain  Humphreys,  of  the  Isabella,  with  the  hope  that  he  might 
Have  reached  that  place  in  the  succeeding  summer,  and  thus  put  me 
pnce  more  into  possession  of  the  materials  whence  I  might  have 
drawn  up  an  account  of  the  geological  structure  of  this  country. 
While  this  sheet  was  preparing  for  the  press,  that  collecUon  arrived; 
butrtis  a  subject  that  1  am  compelled  to  refer  to  the  Appendix, 
among  the  other  matters  appertaining  to  science  and  natural  history. 


/ 


■ ;      i 

5    H 


,6 , ' 


■■'■■•I 


-4jl 


■K^ 


^ 


i^ 


>wmmmm0P'- 


ft. 


I 

( 


1. 


4It 


JMBCOND  VOTAOB  OF  UISCOVBBV  <^ 


CHAPTER  LIII. 


■i 


Continuation  of  our  travelling  southward  in  October— Return 
to  Fury  Beach— Establish  ourselves  at  Somerset  House  for 
the  WinterSummary  qf  this  Month— Journal  and  Sum- 
mary qf  November  and  December. 

Oct.  la/,  189«.  Thebe  Wa«  a  very  heavy  fall  of  snow  on'thisday, 
and  the  thermometer  rose  from  2ero  to  10*.  A  strong  north-west 
breeze  made  no  impression  on  the  ice,  which  now  covered  the 
Whole  sea,  living  it  the  same  appearance  as  in  the  depth  of  winter. 
It  was  the  work  of  the  wholes  j^ay  to  dig  a  way  through  it  for  the 
boats,  and  to  haul  them  upon  the  beach  above  high  water-mark. 

2d,  The  carpenter  began  to  make  sledges  out  of  the  empty  bread 
casks;  and  his  chips  became  very  welcome  fuel,  serving  to  cook  a 
couple  6f  foxes  in  aid  of  our  short  commons,  which,  during  the 
whole  pf  this  expedition,  had  been  distributed  into  two  meals, 
breakfast  and.  supper.  That  work  Was  not  finished  till  the  foflrfhi 
amid  very  heavy  snow;  when  they  were  loaded  with  our  tents  and 
whatever  else  might  be  wanted  at  Fury  beach.  There  could  be  no 
Iprther  hope  of  getting  back  there  in  the  boats:  and  thence  I  had 
originally  det^mincdtp  leave,  them  here  for  the  next  year's  jase; 
and  to  proceed  with  sledges  in  the  best  mjanner  that  we  could.  ^ 

We  found  this  attempt  almost  insuperably  difficult;  and  the  whole 
protp<ess  that  we  could  make  was  but  foiir  miles.  The  way  was 
rendered  nearly  impassable  by  the  deep  and  loose  Snow  which  had 
been  falling:  arid,  to  increase  our"  troubles,  the  lame  man,  Taylor, 
»  could  neither  witilk  with  his  crutches,  nor  ride  on  the  sledges,  which 
were, perpetually  iipsetting  upon  the  rough  ice..  In  some  manner 
or  other,  however,  we  gained  a  bad  resting  place  at  sevens  when  it 
was  already  dark,  with  the  thermometer  at  zero. 

&th.  We  passed  a  miseraj>ly  cold  night,  but  fortunately  escaped 
frost-bites.  In  the  morning,  one  of  our  three  sledges  being  broken, 
we  were.compelled  to  leave  here  some  stores;  taking  nothing  but 
the  provisions,  tents,  and  beds,  on  the  other  two,  and  thus  having 


# 


_,.!.. 

J    ^F- 


I 


n 


■■■-., I;  ■ 


7. 


TO  TM  ABTro  >i«IORi. 


■/  . 


413 


"tronger  parties  to  draw  them  than  On  the  precediHJr  djy;    We  thu« 

S  .TJn'"'.''?"  *''•■  '^«y:-i«r"«y' !»;  »pite  &  /.trong  cold 

;Wind  aiid  feonstant  aivpw,  and  wei^  enabled  to  carry  the  mate 

iaylQr,by  returmngfor  him  with  on  empty  sledge.    Burdened  and 

tof  l^h^ r  ^^  '''^'^^  ^f  ?'  *''"  ^"  «  K^-t  a<S^^tional  gSevan  "el 
^tSrVf^  '."'""^''  *°  murmur,  had  at  leiat  the  sSisfactibn 
of  refleptirtg  that  their  case  xvas  better  than  his. 

^Inii  .i,«''''i  ^^'  ^-^*  •'^"''y  •*'*  was  pressed  up  to  the  precipices 
to  LV,5,«;fe*"^':tT'^ /"*"  ^^'^^'^  *°  quit  a  toferable  track, 
to  get  round  them^m^the  best  manner thjit  we  could.    Butthe labour 

Sfv«nrn7'ii'?'i^^'!°°u' ""'''"«»*  ^^^  cascade,  within  eight, 
een  rnues  W  Fury  beach,  the  jnen  acquired  fresh  couraee;  when 
Javmgmade4»Ieven  miles,  we  pitched*within  eight"  of  o^rSr' 
home,  killing  several  foxes  in  the  way.  /^  K/^'  ""'^  ^'"te'' 

«<2?"  ^ri^^JP.^^"'"*  found  liS  a  f^w  hours  more  of  simihir 
r.htL"?i    t '^'"'5,over,  we  readied  our  house,  Somerset  house, 

bnit     S    °"\T,^S'?r'"*  »»«n<l.»n^oiir8elvesoncemoreT 

^.^^^  *''*^  'flit?  *f"*^  "*  ^''^  '"'  »%>  to  accbfrtmodate 

^bWor^«  "mwned:  behind,  who  were  to  return  as  soon  as  pos! 

C;5^mu!t&-    —  niatter. which  could  not  be  bro^t 

.  ^  ^^S?^  our  house  occupied  bv  a  fox,  which  soon  made  its 

S.n^.fc''?I5^''?I'"«^"l"**^**^^^^  last  morsel  at  breakfast,  the 
^S  2  Vt^^^r"**  i.*  8°<^J«eaV  which,  however,  the  imprudent 
to tr^  Kv.''^  without  suffering.  Two  of  the  men  wei5  found 
^i?r/™ft'l'*®S.""'l' **'»'*  "^e"  deeply  cut  in  the  leg. 

mJ^l  J—  ^Jk  ff  r •"«  ^»y  ^'"^"•*«»  employment  for  the 
Sr/hL  ♦.  Fif '""^  **^ ''®?8es  and  their  shoes,  for  another  journey.  • 

ti^S!  ?„H^'  L^'^^yg^feA-endered  air  out-of^oor  work  impracl 
iSh^t  ^^  our>ouse  was  fn  great  .danger.    But  it  had  such  an 

evert  li*nVT'*^'^**"'**°  "**  **  »"  "°*^°*  *«  -««h  »  degree,  that 
every  atom  of  bay  ice  near  us  was  demolished  by  the  floes  and  a 
large  space  of  water  opened  to  the  northeast      ^  ' 

vp7n^nl^f''°°*'°"!*'  °"  *"*  eleventh;  and  as  our housewas not 
yet  prepared  for  a  win  ef  so  severe  and  premature,  we  suffered  con- 

Jev'o';dU"""'iS;"rJ*'''^'°«  """•''^  *°  "•"«  °"^  sleeping  pC 
wwS^^*.d  wf  i"*'  T  ^'^''•«'^^  and  many  larg^iSecfsot  ice 
whi«(nt5e  had  left  here  when  we  went  away,  were  floated  off.       -- 

d!L  f  ,[1"'*2^'"«  J"?*'??  thestorm  was  at  its  highest;  the 
^-JS  J*  *°f»":!?  ^^^  ^'^^  '^"'•^d  off  the  remainder  of  the 
Tce.to  the  southward,  with  great  velocity,  while  much  water 

kmiX"l^vl'':JS*"'*l!*"  That'was  now  unless:  amZthS 

miTif  nhSr  f 'l!?.  I'u"  ''"*'  "*  *"  *•'»«'  »*  '^w  ''h«t  «  «ngle  hour 
might  obliterate  bllihe  next  autumn.  *  - 


/ 


\\ 


...^ 


\ 


*'-'    - 


'> 


..-J 


V''-:i 


-.:  ^ 


■  V 


'(H 


-SECOND  VQYAOE  OF  BlSCOVfiRY 


13/A.  There  was  no  cessation  to  th^  most  uncommon  storip:  after 
promising  to  lull  about  noon,  it  blew  harder  than  ever;  andithe  ca|i- 
vas  roof  being  too  weak  to  bear  it,  the  snow  gained  admission  to  our  •  ^ 
beds,  and  evefy  thing  was  frozen.  We  had  great  difficulty  in  keep- 
ing ourselves  warm  by  crowding  rqunfl  the  stove:  but  had  the  good  > 
fortune  to  take  three  foxes  in  the  trap:  a  matter  now  beginning  to 
be  ^subject  of  great  congratulation. 

l4thto  17/ A.  We  had  the  same  lu^ck  on  the  next  day,  but  there  -, 
was  no  difference  in  the  weather  on  tHig  and  the  followitagpne,  nor,      . 
on  the  sixteenth,  till  noon,  when  it  moderated,  and  the  men  were 
able  to  work  outside  in  covering  the  roof  with  some  of  the  Fury's  • ' 
running  rigging.     On  the  next  day^  it  was  good  enough  to  permit 
the  men  to  set  off  with  the  sledges  to  the  place,  twenty-five  miles 
off,  where  some  of  our  stores  had  been  deposited.  J 

18th  to  21«if.^he  thermometer  sank-  to  ininu»2°,  b^t  t^er6  was    , 
nothing  else  to  mark  these^  three  days.    On  the  twenty-first,  CoiA- 
mander  Ross's  party  retlirned,  bringing  every  thing  except  the  tents, 
^which  Ij^ad  been  left  at  the  last  stag^.  'Among  the  rest  was'oj^r  other 
stoVe,  which  was  ininiediately  prepared  for  use. 

22dto27th.  The  ice  that  hs^  opened,  no#v  closed  the  bay,  as  was 
foreseen,  and  the  ^herttioineter  fell  to  minus  10°.    The^additional     . 
stove,  however,  now  kept  our  house  even  warmer  than  we  wished,  ' 
sinte  we  could  raise  it  to  51°.    A  sni^  wall,  fpur  feefe  thick,  was 
^biiilt  rQjuhd  hi  and  further  spars  and  ropes  were  applied  to  support     't 
the.rdiDf,  for' the  purpose  qfij^overing  it  with  snow.    Ai|pntiDuance 
of^siorqis  on  Jhe  three  following  days  rendered  ill  wo^  in^racti-  ..,. 
ticaWe.    On  i^.e  last  days  of  this  week  it  was iailderj  arrd  v^^ere  '^^ 
able  to  continue  our  operations.        '  * 

'  iiSth.  iJivine  service  was  renewed  pn  this  day,  |fikf^a  longer 
efeteatioh  th^h  jvas  agreeable  to  our  feelings,  and  aftei' a  f^jjjlMrrgrr' ' . . 
oi\e  than  was  right:  But  for  thi^  there  was  no  help;  it  wj^SH^  if    i*" 
those  who  neglect  this  ^uty  at  home  dould  find  excuses  mctSBw-       * 
After  this>  the  men  haS  their  JUst  dinner  oii  fulljdlqwance,  U  itn^ 
became  necessary  to  retrench;    We  found  a  roasted  fox  to  be  a  very    • 
good.  dish.     Thus' at  least  we  then  thought:  J  inlagi^e  that  hungry     ,r 
\men,^o  not  much  fttend  to. flavour,  or,  as  the  moraUsts  have  told  ds, 
^that  hunger  flavoflrs  all  nreats.    I  haye  had  ipkfiQn  to  doubt,  sipce  my 
return  .to  the  beef ^and  mutton  of  Engr^pd^^and  tq  t^e  dingers  of 
«  GTrocenj'  Hafi,"  whether  I  mi^t  not  havwiverrated  the  flavour  of  -  ^ 
fox;  and  I  suspect,  too^  that  even  Barney  Laughy,'though  educated.    : 
.  oiTporridl^  and  notlLtoes,  has  made  the  same  discovery.,  ,    Ak,* 

;^99tA  to  3lst.  It  blew  hard  ort^hc  twenty-ninth  of  this  month, 
and  increased  to  a  heavy  gale,  on  the  three  folio wing<days,  s^hat  ' 
the  month  of  October  ended  as-sev^ely  as  was  well  possible.     We 
ho^uever  newfound  the  advantage  of  the  snow  waH,  and  had  no* 
reason  to  complain.within  dopn,  though  the  thermometer  went  down 


\--'.   1 
■    1 

-     1 


t 


».v-' 


L 


fr^ 


V 


'.:  -a: 


"  "  •«». 


'%::,r^0 


Vv., 


-/'' 


.t. 


:  after 
e  cap- 
to  our  - 
keep- 
:  good  ' 
ing  to 

there  ' 
i,  nor, 
were 
'ury's. 
lermit 
miles 

6  was 
CoiA- 
tents, 
other 

id  was 


ished,  - 
i,  was 
ipport 
uance 
iracti-  ^^ 
t^ere"^- 


I' 


"^fr^ 


N. 


TO  THE  ARCTIC  REGIONS. 


415 


fclo  minus  IS".    Much  clear^at 


;er 


was  opened  in  the  odng  once 


,v» 


more,  during  this  laist  storm. 

The  month  of  October  in  this  year  surpas^d  all  others  for  ftoW 
and  stormy  weather;  there  being  only  six  davn  mZfltT    n 
journey  from  Ba^y  bay/which  wfs'L'^^^^^^^^ 
exceedingly  laborious,  and  from  the  nature  of^the  reSVerv 
trymg^a  all  the  men;  but  had  t<i:  bteen  obliged  to  walk  ail  S    -^ 

t?fomnfZt''^fV°""^'?"'*''^J°"^^^^^  have  beef  fS  . 

to  some,  if  not  to  a  1  of  us,  since  we  should  hav^  been  overtaken^         > 

^.ta^bLT^f  **'';'n^    We  therefore  felt  ver|  thankffia7we    " 
StinsXy"'''^^"'^^^^'"^^^^^ 

.      ,"?V".S«°»s;'-»cted  our  house  pwviously  wa^alsoa  i^iWWi.-     - 
I     dent  al  circumstance;  for.  defective  as  it  was,  it  could noSebeln 
£^r^^  ir  '*  "^'1  r-"Vand  indeed  befo^  uS  IZl      T 
been  done  at  all,  we  must  bave  sB&red  severely;  but  what  We  had 

fow  sZentt'!'  1^'^^^'  •>  the  stor6  of ^ovbils  stnl^*^  I 

we  reflect  on  the  various  cinnimstanc6s  which  have,  a*itwerfe,exeL     • 
edtheniselves  to  prolong  our  lives,  we  cannot  but  offer  up  our  hum\  ^'^ 

blq  .acknowledgments  to  the  Great  J)isposer  of  events.  •  ^     '      "      \ 
_  JJirst,  I  may  enumerate  the  loss  of  the  Fury,  by  which  accident  >*^ 
'  S^wforVft  rrr^.^^''^  '^^^  «»e,t*  the  rJitiJ/of  the  jS^^^^ 

^  ?XlSi'I""*5'*'^'f '''^  "^*  have  feturned:  fourthly,  thTlu. 
ry's  boats,  Sfter  having  been  carried  off  irithe  storms  of  i^inter *     ^ 

dS3L??i«»Tr\'!.°''"  """  *^"  ««™^  P'»«=«'  without  any  material     ' 

«??lfe    ^^  ^t*'^'  ^^^  ««?n8t»-uction  of  ahabitation  in  sum««r  to       • 
^    ^^^t  ^ere^bW  mercifully  permitted  to  return.  W'  *° 

Mr.  Ihom  now  inspected  and  took  an  account  6f  the  reiiiains  of  ' 

Ijrovisions;   namely,  of  the  flour,  sugar,,  soups,  peas,  vS 
^  gretted  to  find,  thj^t  of  the  present  pi^served  nieatL  theTwL  nni 

yiore  th.«  would  sqA^e  for  Sur  voya^inS  bits  durr/g the  nex 

.  noSi**'  '*''^°*  *°  ^^^  P^*^"*  ••*^'°"»'  **>«  men  were  allowed,  alter-        ^ 
n^tely,  pea-smjp,  with  onfe  made  of  fcarrots  and  turnips%ut  of  the  * 

^rtolrJ-^'     r'r\°'  •"•^^^^which  we  couirnornQw-fut      ^''h 
nish  to  a  sufficiept  extent,  they  were  provided  With  duniDline*of       ' 

compuirory  substitute.     They  wer^indeed,  sufficiently  fed  sinri»    ''  ^  ^ 

:  our  return  t^is  plaj*^    Our  present  allowance  in  meat,  indeed,  *^      ^^ 


li 


r 


■  '■*!#■■ 


•f'i 


4^ 


"j.4 


I' 


#: 


-^      --;-. 

:.^^-. 


■'**.: 


I 


■** 


f 

'hi 

\ 

■  -i 


'f 


i 


» 


•.<■' 


".if- 


,    .    4' 


^■;'>-^  >'ii 


.416 


*  -*' 


>.    ^ 


■h 


,  SpeOND' VOYAGE   OF  WI^QVBilTj, 


I 


^was  a  pound  in  the  day:  while  it  was  settled  that  the  short  rations 
should  begin  on  the  first  of  November.  ■/        ,     i,  •       u 

The  storms  of  this  month,  by  breaking  up  the  ice  m  Prince  Ke- 
gent's  inlet,  and  driving  it  down  Baffin's  bay,  must  have  been  ol 
great  service;  but  the  low  temperature  was  agamst  us.  Taylor, 
Laughy,  and  J.  Wood,-  were  on  the  sick  list.  We  began  to  keep 
regular  watch,  and  register  the  thermometer  every  two  hours.  ^ 

Nov.  Ist  to  2d.  It  still  blew  a  gale  from  the  northward,  which  did 
not  intermit  till  the  Saturday  night;  and  though  the  sky  was  clear, 
the  snow-drift  was  so  thick  that  we  could  see  nothing,  and  no  one 
could  venture  out  A  good  deal  of  open  water  was  seen  after  this 
storm,  and  the  thermometer  fell  to  18*  minus  On  Sunday  it  was 
.comparatively  moderate,  and,  at  night,  became  at  len^  calm. 

5th  and  6th.  The  snow-wall  was  finished;  a^d  the  i«e,  under  a 
west  wind,  clospd  in  on  the  shore.  By  throwing  water  on  the  walls, 
and  poifiting  the  joints-with  wet  snow,  it  b^/^ame  quite  impervious 
to  cold.  On  the  seventh,  the  thermometer  mmk  to  35*  minus;  and 
a  strong  breeze  sprung  up,  ending  in  a  gale  vrith  drift  snow  at  night, 
which  continuing  on  the  next  day,  lasted  all  the  following;  the  ice 
driving  to  the  southward,  and  opening  much  clear  water  to  the 

north.  -  ^    »«■     1      •.  ■  I 

nth.  to  '\5th'.  Sund^  was  calm  and  cold.     On  Monday  it  blew 
hard,  with  drift  snow;  still  moving  the  ice  and  opening  morMraterr- 
Nor  did  it  change  on  the  ne*t  day,  while  the  thermometer  fell  37° 
minus.    The  sun  was  in  the  hdrizon  on  the  fourteenth,  and  was  seen   _ 
for  the  last  time  on  the  fifteenth.    There  was  no  cRaftge  W  the  wea- 
ther, except  an  unexpected  rise  of  the  thermometer  to  minus  lO**.  ^^ 
l^th.  The  gale  became  worse  than  ever,  and  there  was  now  clear 
water  as^far  as  we  could  see  to  the  north-eastward,  which,  on  the 
iiixt  day,  was  entirely  frozen  over  and  covered  with  snow.    On 
these  day^  of  confinement  there  hdd  been  abundant  work  within,  in 
fitting  up  the  bed  places,  and  in  constructing  and  supplyj^g  a  venti- 
lator.   The  good  effect  of  this  contrivance  was  immediately  felt,  m 
its  carrying  ofl"  the  vapour.  '  K        -    " 

.  On  Sunday  the  eighteenth,  the  weather  had  moderatedj^  but  it  wa«, 
hazy  on  Monday,  becoming  calm  on  the  next  day.  Thus  ;t  continued 
till  a  wind  rose  from  the  eastward,  but  not  so  as  to  render  the  work  ot 
the  men,  out  of  doors,  in  constructing  k  snow  passage,  impracticable. 
2lst.  We  saw  a  second  wolf  on  thlfwlay,  which  was  fired  at,  but  not 
killed,  since  it  was  afterwards  seen,  wounded,  but  still  able  to  es-  , 
cape.  The  men  were  imprisoned  till  Saturday  ni|^t,  and  the  ther  . 
mometer,Was  then  at  13"  mii\il8.  .    i 

»     25th  ta  36m.  Sunday  did  not  admif  of  walking  after  divmeser- 
.    vice.    During  all  the  remaind^  of  thi«  m&nth,  the  ice  conti|j#d  in 
motion,  under  a  .west  wind,  fwid  moderate  weather.    The   n^ 


"'.  ■  •  ■  ■'■  '^-  ii.     •  .  ■  .' 


ml: 


:  :t 


IV'    ,.  * 


■     t. 


clear, 

no  one 
ter  this 
it  was  ■ 

V     » 

inder  a 
5  walls, 

:■    ■"■ 

ervious 
s;   and 
t  night, 
the  ice     1 
to  the 

;  ■  >■ 

it  blew 

ne  u^     " 

rine  ser- 
ij^iul^in 
he  a^D 

i              \ 

»"  ■  ;     - 

« 

♦  ""  ■■■,    .; 

"— -r---^- -  ■■  •  - 

., 

F,'».      '• 


K" . 


TO  THB<  AHCTIC  BE«IONS. 


;'X. 


417  * 


ttSus  32«r°''''*°**  ^^  thermimet^r  at  th^end  of  November 

The  first  part^f  the  abstract  of  this  month,  which  I  shall  ^ive. 

relates  to  the  te4erature.    The  extremes  were  8-  and  370  miiu? 

fnthJ'r*" "  5^*°™'°"'iH'<^^*° »««*«» that  at  P^ 

m  the  correspondmg  month  of  1834,  «."uwcu 

This  month  had  bewi^  stUl  more  rem'arkable  than  the  precedine  " 
for  the  constant  succ^^on  of  ptorms  by  wjiicK  it  had  been  disS     ' 
gmshed,  and  for  being  the  only  ^orember.o.^J««f  i'Thichlhe    / 
thermometer  never  rose  abtA^e  zero.     The  maSumVasTminu^    ' 
and  the  mean  temperature  not  l^ss  than-19io  below  thlt  of  thTS  ' 

belore,  and  15J«  lower  than  in  the  November  of  1824,  at  Port!l 
t^nZh*  •;  *  T^however,.higher  tfi^n  at  Melville  island,  in  lSf9^* 
though  itmustbe  remarkedofcat  tlfs  is  in  2Jo  of  latitude  furih^r;- 

■   ;f  TJ-®  open  water  had  been  seen  to  a  great  extent  durin^he  calfes     ' 

During  this  very  severe  month,  ii,e  men,  not  having  clothinfr  to 
withstand  the  cold,  could  seldom  work  in    he  operS:  tot  we  S 
ength  succeeded  in  making  our  house  tolerably  cLfoSblvsHha^      - 

walls  ThTrfi?  Z' of";-  "'°"r?>  ^rP;'"S  ^^-'  the  e;;cToS,g 
wans.  Where  It  was,  of  course,  beloVir  the  freeaine  nointvaswere 
our  cabins.    The  men  jiad  lach  a  bed  place  with  I  cS  botTom 
and  a  thrummed  mat  for  a  bed;  wWle  in  addiuTt^rESA" 
wp  were  about  to  m^  mats  as  furfiier  co|rering8.    ^^^*^"'^^***^*»' 
.  .Our  system  of  ii^tit^  dbuld  not  bd'clShged,  f6r  want  of  JTeanSi  ' 
miT^J^::'^'''  '?'  wished;  but  .he-men  did  Ifsfm  t/ 
m£  *  and  ThoL?  t.?5r'  ""I  ^^  ^'^^^  Taylor,  the  lame     . . 

=:^sS^rS»  ^^^  th^^M  w,. .o.te^^^^^ 

be/^c^'S,^«If''^;S"'^iT^^^  the  beginning  of  Decern..    ' 
oer,  exceptth^t  Sunday,  the  secdnd,  was  a  ve#  stormi'  day   and 

th   1  ^'  vira'tTh?S°".  ^  'T""''  ^-^^^^^^^^^^ 
me  last  .year  ^t  the  sam^date.    Hence,  on  td.SaturdaV  nieht  there 

*,rm  Xl'£;  "  ";!;'  °<"*='to-.°»  May,  but  6ed.n,e  a  Berfett      • 
«(.rn,  rfter  tlHBi  „„|d„^.on  withliltle  change  till  the  twelfth,  whoi.     . 

r  .;.--  .-...■...  .'Cv;:-  %«■.  •,  ...•:/  V  ^: 

«         '.  •         '  'I 


/ 


»   ;    i' 


Ut.- 


".  •' . 


A14. 


«.. 


y..-  .4  V 


J^. 


■  r  :.■ 

.■.;-i-    .-    ■ 

h 

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, 

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i 

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V. 

■' 

.  .    ;J. 

418 


SECOND  VOTAOa  OF  DXSCOVKBT 


/-. 


it  fell  calm;  yet  only  to  return:  haying  produced  more  (Mjbn  water 
than  we  had  yet  seen,  which  was  nevertheless  covered  with  floating 
pieces  of  ice,  and  soon  became  sheeted  witn  a  new  formation  of  the 
same  now  to  be  expected  substance.  The  thirteenth  was  calm  and 
clear,  and  the  weather  was  mibderate;  while,  after  a  gale  on  the 
fourteenth,  the  vfeek  ended  with  calm  Weather,  and  with  thetem> 
perature  at  24".  « 

16th  to  22d.  The  men  were  able  to  walk  on  Sunday,  after  service; 
and  the  weather,  having  become  clear,  continued  moderate,  and 'un- 
marked all  the  rei;t  of  the  week;  when  the  thermometer  fell  to  43o, 
being  the  greatest  degree  of  cold  we  had^y^t  experienced,  lliiree 
,or  four  foxes  had  been  taken  in  the  trap  at  different  times.  \  x 

.23d  to  25tA,  It  blew  fresh  oh  the  Sunday  and  Monday,  so  as  t(H 
prevent  th^  men  from  going  out;,  but. a  fox  having  been  taken, 
served  for  our  Christmas  dinner,  while  the  men  received  full  alldw-    j: 
ance  of  meat  for  that  day,  though  for  them  as  for  us,  there  was  no- 
thing to  dnn|:  but  snow  water.    No  change  of  weather  worthy  of 
note  took  plaice  onwards  HLill  the  end  of  the  month,  noir  did  any*\ 
thing  occur  among  ourselves  to' make  one  day  differ  from  another^    ' 
or  diminish  tne  weariness  of  that  uniformity  to  which  we  were 
now  tied.    The  month  and  the  year  ended  su£Sciently  cold,  since  it  . 
was  again  at  the  freezing  point  of  mercury.  ■ 

In  the  pourse  of  this  month  it  blew  hard  during  most  days,  and 
always  fi'om  the  north  and  north-west;  in  consequence  of  which  the 
iee  was  kept  in  violent  motion.  Open  water  was  seen  through  all 
the  month;  and,  on  the  last  day  of  the  year,  it  was  visible  from  the  , 
beach  as  /ar  as  the  eye  could  trace  to  the  north-nortfi-east 
'  The  mean  temperature  of  the  month  had  been  i°  below  on  any 
record;^  and  the  cold  was  very  severely  felt  by  us  iir our  frozen 
habitation;  but  by  increasing  the  mass  of  snow  and  ice  on  the  out- 
side, a^  ^y  flooring  the  house,  we  made  ft  more  comfortable.  Half 
a  dovaii^  foxes  were  taken,  and  afforded  us  an  excellent  meal  on  Sun-* 
days  and  on  Christmas  day;  which  was  the  6rst  that  we  had  spent 
wit|[eut  tasting  spirits  i>r  wine:  these  luxuries  .having  been  now 
uj^riy  exhausted,  ^8  they  had  long  been  set  apart  for  those  periods 
of  ifi^ale  which  a  seaman  does  not  easily  resign,  and  ought  not  to 
to  be  allowed  to  forget  Thomas,  the  carpenter,  was  now  the  only 
person  on  the  sick  list,  and  it  was  a  matter  of  considerable  regret  to 
me,  not  less  on  his  account  thaii  for  the  interests  of  all  of  us,  and  the 
credit  of  our  medical  treatment,  that  the  scurvey  und^r  whicfl^ 
now'  at  length^uffered,  did  not  yield  to  our  great  specific^  lime-juice, 
which  really  seemed  to  if  it  had  lost  its  anti-scorbutic  virtues,  though 
the  fault  probably  lay  in  the  increase  of  the  causes  of  this  disease. 

The  aurora  bor^aKs  had  been  aeen  but  seldom,  and  was  incon- 


^ 


'  i«. 


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*  J' 


^  f     ■  » 


1  A- 

1%" 


■  ■^. 


4' 


».' 


.   jp^  — V*  "-i*-  -     . . 


,  -  -^'  *• 


'.,      ^'/ 


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water    . 
Dating  <  • 
of  the  * 
m  and 
in  the 
»tem- 

irvice; 
td'un-     . 

0  43S    , 
ThJreev 

j.aatcH  >■-';? 
taken^ 
alldw-  '  1 
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thyof 
d  anyN 
othiar^    ^ 
were 
inceit  . 

s,  and 
ch  the 
gh  all 
>m  the 

n  any 
frozeti 
e  out- 
Half 

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spent 

1  now 
erjiods 
not  to 
I  only 
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-juice, 
iiough 
ase. 
mcon- 


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ft 


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*0i  THE.  Aict^  BSelOIIS. 


3H'    -I 


,^!5^hae:i 


lilii 


419 


;J>|^icuoi^.^q^uidis  posiuoQ  was  generally  opposed  „ 
*"°*  u?"^^?"  ®°**  "^^^^  *•»«  flun^fiary  of  this  iaonth,4he"weathCT 
vanabte  and  severe  as  it  Jiad  been,  Became  calm  and  cSrTouS 
c^^dUuisdidweten^ 


«  7   ' 


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430 


S£CONO  V07AOE   Of  DISCOIUIBT 


is-jS' 


t  f. " 


The  Journals  of- January,  Febr^^ar^  and  March,  with  their  \. 
respective  Summaries — Death  amkFuneral  of  the  Carpenter.  ' 

Jan:  1st  to  6th,  1833.  |Pdr  New-year's  feast  was  like  tHat  of 
Christmas-day.  The  rein^inder  of  the  week  was  fine,  and  the  peo- 
ple w«re  able  to  take  exercise  every  day.  The  temperature  ranged 
between  33°  and  38*'. 

6fh  to  12th.  "A  breeze  came  on  Supon  unday,  with  snow-drift; 
and  the  sea,  which  had  been  covered  with  new  ice,  broke  up.  It 
moderated  next  day;  but,  on  Tuesday,  blowing  hard  with  the  ther- 
mometer  at  43°,  it  was  intoleii^bly  cold.  The  temperature  rose  a 
little  the  following  day,  but  went  down  to  44°  on  the  tenth.  Prida;^ 
and  Saturday  were  both  stormy,  with  the  ice  in  violent  motion;  and 
the  result  of  this  gale  was  to  raise  the  temperature  to  26°. 

13th  to  19th.  This  Sunday  was  marked  by  a  perfeet  storm;  yet 
it  moderated  on  the  next  day,  and  still  more  so  on  the  following 
dttes,  so  that  we  could  again  go  out  during^l  the  remainder  of  the 
wWk;  the  thermometer,  which  had  not  been  very  low  in  compari- 
soim  being  then  at  31°.  \ 

20/A  to  26th.  Sunday  ended  with  a  gale  atid  drift  snow,  which 

continued  the  following  day,  and  left  the  ice  in  motion  on  Tuesday. 

The  weather  was  uncertain  all  the  rest  of  the  week,  with-  strong 

breezes  and  calms./ On  Saturday  the  sun  should  have  been  visible 

for  the  first  time;  but  the  snow-drift  deprived  us  of  the  sight:  and 

this  week  produced  nothing  else  to  note. 

'       2'Jth  to  29th.  It  blew  so  hard  on  the  first  days  of  the  vnsHt,  that 

we  could  not  go  out.    The  twenty-ninth  was  a  very  fine  day;  and 

the  upper  limb  of  the  sun  appeared  at  a  quarter  after  eleven; 

''showing  three-quarters  of  the  disk  above  the  horizon  at  noon,  and 

setting  at  half  after  one.    It  was  the  first  time  that  we  had  seen  it 

during  seventy-four  days.     On  the  thirteenth,  the  thermometer  rose 

to  11°,  and  |(he  month  was  ended  with  it  at  4°;  being  a  great  change 

■    within  a  very  short  space.    ■  *  .  . 

This   month   began,  and    continued   for   ten  days  with  such 


TO  THE  ABCTIC  K 


481 


:   severity  that  it  promised  to  be  t|e  coldeat  on  recdrd^    IfimDroved 
however  about  the  middle,  so  ttat  the  meaii  te  J^VaturrC  Joo 

,  inmus,  while  the  extremes  were  minus  40andlE4«'  Never- 
theless  our  habitation  was  .Very  cold  and  n|serable;  while  Tn 
attempting  to  warm  ourselves  on  one  side,  we  Sere  frozen  o«'fh» 
c^posite  and  were  otherwise  more  than  eiough^l'arUd;^^^^^^  J| 
want  of  books  or  other  occupatiqn,  and  the  impossibility  of  taking 
exercise  out  of  doors,  ^e  crev^  with  4he  exertions  fotmerry  no? 
noh^r'^^  «^  but,of.the  carpenter'8Tecovery,therJwas 

„r?{}*' '**;'*•  J^e  weather  confined  us  for  the  first  two  days 
of  February,-  but  Sunday  was  fine,  as  was  the  next  day;  a  violent 
gale  comjng  on  upon  the  fifth-,  which,  after  another^  peaceful  dWv 
^S''-.,f"  the  seventh,  freezing  the  mercury,  and  continu  „?fo 
faiibg'to  4!^:**  '^  *'"/'"•  of  the  week,  th;  thermometer  tC 
10th  to  16th.  The  carpenter  being  now  in  a  hopeless  state  an" 

ra^mrha^;:^^ 

hJd  t^::^^^  -  -^^^  -  ^^  -^PecV^Xf^ 

*  r««?hnt"?nW  Z^A^  "^  }u^  subsequent  week  the  weather  was  mode- 
rate  but  cold;  and  on  the  twenty^second^the  carpenter.  Chimham 
Thomas,  was  interred  with  the  usual  s^mnity.  ^H  wSs  not  eaJv 
nevertheless,  to  read  the  service  out  of  doors,  the  them^meterZ' 
joe  at  45".  while  the  o-i-ftimH  «,oa  ««  i,»-j  «u_*  '     i._ ,  ^"""'"«er  pe- 


V 


k    IWHB 

*  ■ 

* 

•  ■ 

---- 

...  ,-  „ 

scurvy,  in  addition  to  a  worn  out  constitution.  It  was  the  first  of 
our  losses,  however,  which  could,  in  any  fairness,  be  atSuted  to 
Ir'i'r'i^  and  ourpeouliar  situation:  .the  first  man  who  died  could 
scarcely  have  lived  longer  at  home;  nor  was  the  death  of  the  Xr. 
one  that  cou-ld  have  been  delayed  long,  any  where.  >     ' 

1  he^temperature  rose  suddenly  from  minus  36°  to  6°  and  then 
reached  zero,  falling  again  to  23- till  the  end  of  the  month      The 
first  change  gave  us  som^e  hopes,  but\these  did  not  last.     In  the 
.weather,  which  was  variable  bu^  moderate,  there  was  nothing  to 

There  is  ^nothing  wirprising,  »s  there  is  no  noveltv,  in  the  retro- 
spect of  February.  It  could  not  have  been  much  wL^and  iTwas 
satisfactory  that  it  had  not  been  worse,  bad  as  it  was.  What  thi 
weather  had  proved  I  need  not  repeat:  but  as  the  tem^rature  is  J^! 

was  32.87°  minus;  as  that  in  the  preceding  Februaries  were  re- 
_S«*M»  Wire  plus  6°,  and  minus  S,**" 


V 


■Ir" 


f- 


T 


■1 


W 


(%•*: 


-  .-.  Jv  ;%!K;'f..,r-,- 

i:n^.;-:.,r;.#-. 

'm ,     ■,'  ■.• 

.  ♦. 

■<P- 

■  .«-- 

''*■;, 

* 

...    .>•««■  ■'.    •-•• 

N 


4^3 


,   SECOND  VOlTAOE   OF   DISCOVERT 


X 


■'W  .'i 


..*^''>, 


The  chief  ey,eht  was  tJ^t  of  the  death  of  the  carpenter,  Thomas; 
which,  apart  from  "any  regi;et  for'  a  worthy  and  useful  man,  the  more 
painful  vvhea  we  looked  round  on  all,  saw  the  decided  illness  of 
some,  and  could  not  easily  avoid  anticipating  what  our  own  fate 
might  be,  was  a  very  serious  loss;  since  his  assistance  could  scarcely 
fail  to  be  required  hereafter,  in  the  reparation  of  the  boats,  and  in 
>  such  other  matters  as  belonged  to  his  profession.  Respecting  him- 
self, I  need  only  note  the  excellent  character  he  had  acquired,  in  the 
navy,  before  he  joined  us:  but,  to  compensate  any  pain  that  might 
have  been  felt  under  the  inripression  that  this  expedition  had  been 
fatal  to  him,  we  knew  that  his  constitution^ad  been  much  impaired 
by  long  service,  especially  on  the  American  lakes  and  in  the  Bir- 
mese  wan  His  age  was  forty-eight;  and  at  that  time  of  life,  a  sea- 
man who  has  served  much  is  an  aged  man,  if  he  does  not  chance  to 
-  be  worn  out  ■     -^t^ — ~: Vt^t^-tt';  "  '•,   '"~ — ' 

My  own  condition,  from  the  state  of  ancient  wounds,  brought 
into  troublesome  action  by  that  tendency  to  scurvy  which  displayed 
itself  in  no  other  very  marked  way,  was,  at  this  time,  somewhat 
threatening.  I  had  now,  indeed,  some  reuibn  to  suppose  that  I 
might  not  be  ultimiately  able  to  surmount  all  the  present  circum- 
stances; in  which  case,  I  know  not  that  my  anxiety  for  the  fate  of 
those  who  might  not  have  very  well  guided  themselves  when  I  was 
no  longer  present  to  aid  them,  was  not  much  greater  than  any  thing 
'which  1  felt  on  xpy  own  account. 

The  state  of  the  ice  could  not  have  been  worse  than  it  was  at  the. 
end  of  this  BMBth,  and  the  hills  were  entirely<covered  with  snow. 
It  was  so  d««!|>  about  the  ][)lace  of  our  compulsory  residence,  that  our 
miserable  abode  was  almost  hidden  by  it,  like  the  snoyv  hut  of  an 
Esquimaux  in  winter:  and,^as  to  our^cpurse  of  life  and  feelings, 
these  are  tMi^  which  poetry  might  tell  once,  but  which  neit|ier 
poeii^  ner  vmse  can  repeat  forever,  with  the  hope  that  any  one  can 
listen,  and  understand,  and  feet. 

March  1st.  March,  began  with  a  heavy  jrale  ^of  wind  and  drift 

-maow,  so  that  we  could  not  see  fifty  yards  on.    The  roaring  of  the 

fee  was  terri&r;  and,  on  the  ft>llowing  day,  the  temperature  fell  once 

ipore  to  minus  40°,  proceeding  till  it  reached  43°,  sm  the  fourth. 

vIRiera jsas  no  cessation  of  this  gale  till  the  sixth,  when  open  water 

was  "  isible  to  a  gr^t  extent.    Two  reindeer  were  seen  on  Hoe  seventh, 

which  ^e  considered  very  early  in  the  season,  add  on  the  two  fol- 

*iowing  days  ttie  temperature  was  25".  ^ 

10/ A.  On  Suaday  it  blew  hard  from  the  BOtttMMK,  and  '1^  t^W- 
mometer,  to  om*  great  surprise,  rnir  to  plus  1°.  reaching  5**  onfthe 
.foliowing  day.  On  the  twelfth,  the  water  closed,  and  no  more  was 
sfen  this  week;  when  it  Cell  calm  Qn  Saturday  night,  having  blown 
a  hard  gale  during  the  two  preceding  days. 

~:     Vltk  and  IS/A.  It  was  calm  and  snowy,  with  the  thermometer  at 
UM&  4°,  b^i  on  &wdi^  aad  Monfiijr,    The  awwad  dwl^^  <tf 


-:iH' 

• 

■1  " 

- ,..  *^  ' . 

■~ 

> 

^.-4 

.  I'M-    •    ■•- 

c 

It 

*■* 

-  ^.M 

■'"    f 

_ 

^  --■            -t 

''■■.■;:». 

'?■  ■'  '      ' 

IJl 


fSffB 


TO  THE  ARCTIC  REGIONS. 


483 


rseason  was  seen  feeding  at  a  crack  in  the  ice     nupin-  «ii  ♦»,.. 

„„T/!°  *."l"l!'>'  "tays  of  March  were  unnsoally  severe-  the  chanm 
on  the  ninth  was  great  and  sudden,  but  did  not  prove  duraBteffi 

r„V«CJ:s5'"''^h""=,^''°'"'  ""=  «t,^"e7haTbt„  fit" 
i«-7     ui.      P.    ^-    ^"®  ga'es  were  exceedinelv  severe  ami  th^ 

tren^Jy  confined^*  «:h  ?^^^  '.V"-''"  Pr^P^^'-^^  '"""th,  been  Jxl 
n^TST  '^^"'^"fd;  and -thus  the  impossibility  of  takine  exercise 

andfhe  ineSfl  ^^^^'^^^  employment,  shjrt  allowanfe  of  food,' 
;5^.5?e  inevitable  lowness  of  spirits  produced  by  theurdlofcen  siX 

to  .Sucet  SftS'  uniform^^L  of  snoi  alTd  it  c' mbitd 

in  m«  «u        A  *  ^^^^  °^  ^^''y  ^^tJ'fferent  health.     Mr.  Thorn  was 

.  in,my  oW  wouhds  were^very  troublesome,  and  two  of  he  seamen 

d^rerove"  ^°"'  '"  %--vy,that  we  were  afraid  th:;rulS 


On  thir  account  more  than  or^^ny  bther,  we  bad  reason  to  lament 
5;  as  It  was  lorig,  too,  ere  we  could  hope 


C^hl^r?^aUf  Srli"^'  -^  u-  ---g>^oo.ere  we  could  hope 
lor  tlie  arrival  of  the  summer  birds,  to  allow  us  to  add  some  f resK  • 

-  TwlTr^ttl  ^1|S^*»''^"  but  three  foxes  and  tw^ STret  n 
A^fhl  «?J^  f  J.    5ife^  ^""'^^  amounted  to  nothing.- 
^*L     5   •  ^u"*  "^  '^'"^^^^  ^  '^^^  «'^a"l5es  that  had  takeS  place  under 
^hega^es,theicewas,o:,S:ugh-that  it  wa?  impassaWe  on  sledls 
and  even  on  foot    No  aufora  borealis  had  been  seen-  and  inS 
we  had  scarcely  noticed  one  the  whole  winter  '        '  ^      ^' 

We  ^^e  indeed  all  very  weary  of  this  miserable  home     It  had 

tr^to  wt?r/r  ^''^""<  r  «"'  ''^^^hed  it;  becauseTwas  a  conl 
trast  to  what  had  been,  much  worse.     It  had  received  usXfati^S 

SelTre't  't^''''  and  iT  at  least  promised  us  coi^arS 
C    ^d  ?or  a  Im^i  ^'  ""^^J^y  °f  this  feeling  had  long  bein  worn 

y^tSor  Li  ^  ^A  "Jw'  ?^  ^I'y'  '^^'^  been  almost  .without' 
variation  or  mark;  each  dull«r  than  its  predecessor,  and  the  niirht 
returning  onlyto  tell  ^^that  another  such  day  wotdd  come  to. 
morrow.  Even  the  stoi^wer*  v^thout  variety,  amid  theTternrf. 
sameness  of  snow  and  ice:  there  was  nothing  to  Se^out  tf  doora 
even^  when  we  could  face  the  sky;  and,  withih,  it  was  to  S 
equa%  for  variety  and  employment,  and  to  find  neithe.?'  I?  S 
of  the  least  active  minds  dftsed  tfway  their  tim«  in  the  wakine  s^^ 

lortunate  of  thnMiltir     Those  ampng  us,  who  had  fhc  enviable 


if 

I  '  ' 


» 


I 


i\ 


}^'K 


itmi"--  '■ 


\\\ 


•  "^^  > 


SECO*(D  VOT 


DISOVEBT 


i=' 


talent  of  flreepiog  at  all  times,  whether  they  were  anxious  or^nbt* 
%ed  b<fe8t  > 

\  That  manjr  wishes  were  turned  Upwards  our  own  English  home, 
cannot  be  doubted:  but  it  was  unreasonable  to  indulge  regret  where 
there  was  nothing  of  which  we  could  accuse  ourselves;  and  they 
vvhb  looked  forward,  could  feel  that  there  was  enough  of  exertion 
bJefore  them  to  demt^nd  all  their  spirit,  and  at  least  hope  enough  to 
-jiustain  those  spirits  till  the  "t^e  should  come  to  bring  them  into 
action.  Another  month  would  pass  in  the  daily  approaching  pros- 
pect of  moving:  within  one  more,  we  might  be  in  motion;  and  if 
June  must  still  be  a  term  of  struggles  and  hopes,  the  month  of  July 
might  find  us  in  Baffin's  bay. 

After  all,  I  believe,  it  was  on  those  with  whom  the  responsibility 
rested,  that  the  evil  sat  lightest;  for,  in  the  mere  sense  of  this,  there 

—was  exertion,  as  the  anticipation  filled  the  mind  with  schemes  and 
prospects,  and  even  in  this  alone,  gave  it  occupation.  Still  there  was 
far  more  than  time  enough;  far  too  much  to  occupy  in  action,  and 
incalculably  too  much  for  thinking:  and  while  part  of  »ur  standing 
work  was-  to  complete  the  duplicates  of  our  journals,  some  weary 
hours  were  filled  up  by  noting  our  recollecUons  of- the  natives  with 
whoiT)  we  had  been  so  long  in  communication.  What  mine  were, 
furnished  a  sketch,  which  I  ^m  very  unwillingly  compelled  to 
defer  to  an  appendix,  gladly  as  I  would  have  introduced  it  into.this 
journal;  ,which,  if  it ^ may  often  Kave  wearied  the  reader,  by  its 
unavoidable  repetition  of  similar  occurrence,s,  cannot  hav6  tired  him 

"to  one  ten-thousandth  part  ol  the  degrees  that  the  entry  «nd  the 
retrospect  wearied  myself.  JLet  him  who  reads  to  condemn  what 
is  so  meagre,  have  some  compassion  on  the  writer  who  had  nothing 
better  than  this  me^greness,  this  rppetitlon,  this  reiteration  of  the 
ever,  resembling,  ev6ry  day  dulness  to  record,  and  what^  was  infi- 
nitely worse,  to  endure.  I  might  have  seen  morei  ,it  has  been  s»i(): 
it  may  be;  but  I  saw  only  ice  and  snow,  cloud  and  drift  and  storm. 
Still  I  might  have  seen  what  I  4id  not;  seen  as  a  painter,  and  felt  as- 

,^  poet;  aAd  then*,  like  painte^-.and  poet,  have  written,     That  also 

~  may  be,  but  let  painter  and  poet  come -hither  iahd  try:  try  how  far 
cold  a'hd  hunger,  misery  and 'depression,  aid  those  faculties  which 
seem  always  best  developed  under,  the  comforts  of  life,  and  under 
that  tranquillity  at  least,  of  mind,  if  riot  much  more,  .which  the  poet 

■  and  the  writer  require  to  bring  their  faculties  into  action.  Our 
"foBcundi  calices"  were  cold  snow-water;  and- though, ^ccbrding  to 
Fepsius,  it  is  hunjger  which  makes  poets  write  as  it  makes  parrots 
speak,  1  suspect  that  neither  poet  nor  parrot  v^ould  have  gained 
much  in  elpquence  under  a  fox  diet,  and  that  an. insufficient  one,  in 
the  blessed  regions  of  Boothia  Felixi 


%     '" 


/*• 


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.  out 
still 
then 

«  teen  I 
sledj 
they 

-   iu. 
'Mom 


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V 


> 


TO  TH«  ARCTIC  SBOIOiril. 


415 


A':. 


JER  LV. 


■yfV 


variable  weather  on  the  two  following  j.      t  . .  "'S"'-     There  <vai 

n.Nd,  «,  ,ha,  .he  m™  oL™d  «ToSt  7«  ,o'  /T''  °<,°  "'  ""•°"' 
were  seen  for  the  firsf  »}.*«.  ♦„^ai!^      ^[ntosth.    Some  erouse- 

fifth,  the  temperature  rose  to5<>  dSI^;;  T' *''•  ^''"u'^"''  '•"^'  °"  ^^e 
the  week.  ^°  ^  plw,  continuing  thus  till  the  end  of 

the  tenth,  and  we  saw  two  bSrs  with  twn  1  ?     P'"'*    J.*  ""^^^^^  on 
to  pass  not  far  from  us     Thft^  f  "*"'  approaching,  or  about 

;ng^hemale,arpS;ing'^!;:ar^:t^^^^^^ 

the  week  were  very  severe  ones  wItK  o  k  ''"'®*'-,    *"f  l^st  days  of 

and  the  thermometerfeU  to  2^"'^^^^  '^"'^^  «5^"  ""^^  ''"ft  '"ow; 

-still  ali  imprisoned.    Z"  fhe  „^t  Z  i»°^"       »".?'^'  ''"*  "^^  ^^^^ 
there  was  no  possibility  of  undSkfnY        "?  «^'"  "'"•"e  q"''et;  but 

.  teenth,  when  J  party  o^f  men  were tn^t  foL''"^-^/"  '^^  "'"'«- 

sledge  of  provisions:  and,  havinrdeDosLS?*"?  '^  advance,  with  a 

they  murnea ;.  makine  a  seronKn.  '^   '  ^  'V'*'"'"^  ^'g^**  '"''es  off, 

,^Uar  supply,  Ind  reSnTatteh?  °"  ''^  Saturday.^ith  a  .i! 

^^^-^^tJZ^i:^^  -s  too  coldo^ 


54 


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426 


SECOND' VOTAGS  OFDIBCOVBRT 


in  advance,  to  '^  boats  which  we  had  left,  sufficient  proviaions  to 
last  us  from  th&H'st  of  July  till  the  first  of  October;  as  that  was  the 
point  whence  our  summer  journey  and  voyage  would  commence. 
23d.  On  Tuesday,  Commander  Ross  and  the  parties  set  off  with 
two  loads  of  various  articles  to  the  depot,  and  returned  about  mid- 
day on  the  twenty-fourth.  24th7.  In  their  way  back,  they  saw  a 
bear,  and  killed  a  seal:  and,'in  the  evening,  another  of  the  former, 
approaching  the  house,  was  killed.  It  had  been  at  our  flagstafi*, 
which  it  had  pulled  down;  4ind  having^ound  and  eaten  -some  bread, 
this  was  discovered  on  opening  its  stomach,  which  contained  noth- 
ing else.  *l^ 

25/A  to  ^Ith.  The  men  made  another  trip,  but  returned  with 
inflamed  eyes,  so  that  they  were  confined  on  the  -following  day. 
On  the-next,  the  weather  was  fine,  and  the  thermometer  rose  to  14° 
plus,  ihe  sun  being  very  powerful:  another  journey  was  taken  to  the 
first  depot,  and  the  thermometer  rose  to  IT*. 

28M  to  30th.  Sunday  was  a  day  of  rest;  and  on  the  twenty- 
ninth,  another  journey  completed  the  depositfon  of  the  provisions  at 
the  place  of  the  boats.  On  the  thirtieth,  there  was  a  severe  gale, 
and  we  could  do  nothing:  and,  wjlth  this  last  labour,  we  ended  the 
month  of  April.  >. 

The  last  month  was,  on  the  iM»ole,  mild,  being  never  less  than 
26*'  minus,  nor'hijgher  than  19"  plus;  and  the  mean  temperature  wa» 
minus  4°,  being  four  degrees  above  that  at  Port  Bowen,  and  seven 
above  that  at  Victory  harbour  in  the  same  month  pf  the  last  year. 

We  had  succeeded  in  getting  aU  our  provisions  forward,  contain- 
ing our  supply  from  the  first  of  July  to  the  end  of  September,  and 
were  thus  eight  miles,  or  a  quarter  of  the  distance,  advanced  to- 
wards the  place  of  the  boats  in  Batty  bay.  The  transportation  of 
them  onwards  to  that  depot  was  calculated  to  be  work  enough  for  the 
next  month,  because  the  parlies  would  be  coiqpelled  to  travel  the 
same  ground  eight  times,  so  as  to  make  the  distance  256  miles. 

The  fat  of  the  bears  which  we  had  killed  was  an  addition  of  some 
moment  to  our  fuel,  as  the  skins  had  their  own  value.  Five  grouse 
had  been  killed;  but  not  a  snow  bunting  had  yet  been  seen.  One 
fox  only  had  been  taken.  ,   '      .  ^ 

The  men  were  better,  except  one  of  the  scorbutic  patients,  John 
Wood,  who  appeared  to  be  in  a  hopeless  state.  The  sun  had  pro- 
duced a  visible  eflfect  on  the  snow,  which  was  now  disappearing  |rom 

the  tops  of  the  hills.  -  ..     .        -« 

May  \8t  to  7th.  The  gale,  which  continued  all  this  day,  pre- 
vented us  from  carrying  on  our  provisions:  and  it  thus  persisted 
until  the  seventh,  being  a  continued  storm,  vjrhich  entirely  hindered 
us  from  nftoving  during  the  whole  of  the  time.  The  thermometeF 
was  between  3"  minus,  and  10"  plus.  Twobears  were  wounded. 
8th.    This  day  was  nearly  calm;  and  having  got  all  our  prepa  ra- 


^ 


■ti,..: 


»•»•»„»-.-. 


TO  TUB  ABCTIC  BEOIONS. 


427 


"yt  wnence,  deptt»tiQj(^he  first  load,  we  returned  ten  mift.  #« 

14M/0  24/A.     Not  to  repeat  these  daily  proceediBJrr™.^^ 

required  four  journeys;  sfnce,  Z%''k7;.:^T^:l,Zn'ZVe 

TJEt  "^^  r'**  "f  °*«''^'«'  t'**"»P<"-t  our  £.veS  store  anS 
in  additten  to  those,  the  men  that  were  too  ill  to  walk  It  w«i  i^f 
therefore,  till  the  twenty-fourth  that  we  arrived  rr.h.K-«?."°*; 

deeply  was  the  ground  covered  with  snow.     To  die  forXm  LnS 

wLTu^tlrT'/'^T''^?''^  Kre'ter  part  of  the ^   wSue  w2 
were  much  impeded,  and  at  last  stopped,  by  .  stron/ breeze  I^ 

#k5*/k  '  **'*K    /*  ^fcame  cilm  and  mild  on  the  twentv-fifttf«i^^ 

inSthe  fnll't"^  '*!i'i'«^"«  ^°'"'»''^  »»>«  ^^''•'^  proceederbofh  oSSS 
f«n  «  u°'^?8  ^^V  °°  ^'»'«''»  '«"er  I  remained  with  the  bba^ 
S»?K  "^  \"^'  *°  °^^*  observations,  while  the  party  retgrn5'"t^ 
fetch  up  what  was  1^11  left.  I  came  back  much  fat2dsEi„^ 
here  alone  in  the  hot,  about  midnight,  a  bear  pulledl^av  tlie  Si!      ^ 

::i"ri  naTonS"""?  r[''"^  ^«"  ?n,'n1a;i7Jnt  X 

tsilr,^^„dwVi:;n^rofZ^^^^  -'-  -^^^^  -'-"^' 

weJI'bv'muil'-th?"'  ^T  "^'^1  °'  ^^^  "o-'  «'^»°"»e  travelling 
Uitt  bad  It  hapbened  sooner,  we  should  have  been  stopped  alto- 


»    ■'  ..»\  » 


.;.^H 


«■•     — .-♦  —  ^.,    ... 


.y. 


/V 


SECOND  VOr^iPE  or  SUCOTKRV 


•-^1 


gether.    On  the  tvirenty-ninth,  all  having  at  length  been  concen-. 
trated,  we  returned  to  our,  house  on  Fury  beach.^   I  killed  k  bear 
and  two  foxes  on  one  of  these  days;  the  total  number  of  the  latter 
in  this  mottth  having  been  twelve.     The  sight  of  some  gulls  twice 
in  this  nionth  was  a  very  welcome  one.  ^ 

The  mean  temperature  of  this  month  was  lower  by  seven  degrees , 
than  that  at  Port  Bowen  in  1824;  it  was  11°  plus,  and  the  extremes 
plus  25°  and  minus  3°.     There  had  been  no  appearance  of  a  thaw;" 
the  ice  in  the  offing  was  as  bad  asiever,  and  the  two  or  three  gulls, 
with  a  few  snow  buntings  that  we  saw,  without  one  grouse,  were 
Jbut  feeble  signs  «f  an- advancing  summer. 

The  fatigues  of  the;  men,  of  nien  and  officers,  since  no  one  was 
exempted,  were  very  great  in  the  last^wenty  days  of  the.month 
which  our  ever  renewed  training  occupied;  yet  they  had  not  ma- 
,    terially  sufiered,  though  the  sick  continued^ no  better. 

Our  allowance  of  provisions  was  as  low  i^  before,  and  the  mode 
of  distribution  into  meals  the  same;  while  the  night  had  been  made 
pur  day.  Ifhe  quantity  of  provisions  that  we  had  secured  thus  far 
on  our  road  |to  the  expected  liberation,  was  sufficient  to  last  us,  on  a 
tWo-thirds  allowance,  till  the  first  of  October.    I 

June  \st.  Having  thus  carried  forward  to  the  boats  all  that 
could  b^  spared  iVom  our  actual  wants,  that  every  thing  might  be  jn 
readiness  for  moving  whenever  the  ice  should  o^en,  we  had  now  to 
occupy  ourMlves  as  we  best  could  at  our  **  Somerset  house,"  and  to 
make  oursdlves  a»^  content  as  might  be  till  i^^as  time  to  mdve 
again.  Th  s  apparently  premature  advance  was  absolutely  neces- 
sary; because^  at  a  later  period,  when  it  should  be^ue  for  the 
boats  to  move  and  make  the  attempt  to  navigate  thdj^^n  strait, 
the  roads  from  our  winter  residence  to  their  place^^flpTnot  only 
be  much  worse,  but  might  prov^  impassable  for  suchHoads,  und^r 
the  little  piower  that  we  had  at  command.  Witn  the  present  ar- 
rangenf)ent|,  the  surplus  that  might  remain  with  u%  would  be  mode- 
rate, and  a  I  short  time  would  bring  us  up  to  the  boats,  in  readiness 
to  sail;  whereas,  had  this  last  month's  «rork  been  deferred,  the  ice 
might  hai|e  opened,  and  joined  again  fojr  the  winter,  before  we 
were  readi^  to  take  advantage  of  it.  The  journal  of  this  month  is 
therefore,  Very  generally,  uniform  and  uninteresting.  To  us  it  was 
so:  it  cannot  be  otherwise  to  a  reader. 

2d  to  Sp.  Divine  service  was  re-established  on  Sunday.  It  was 
very  bad  Weather,  with  strong  northerly  winds,  snow,  and  drift,  on 
the  three  following  days;  but  it  improved  as  we  advanced  towards 
the  end  of  the  week,  the  thermometer  rising  to  30°:  notwithstand- 
ing which  low  temperature,  the  sun  dissolved  much  of  the  new 
mow,  ano  laid  bare  again  some  parts  of  the  hills.  Some  birdp  were 
killed. 

9th  and  10th.    The  weather  continued  better.     On  Monday  a 

I'  ■■■'  •  ,  '   "     ;      ■■■   •■  -       /.     ■  .- 


«•■. 


^-  .'"i 


■■'    '     '    ■  '  '  ■  '*  ■ 

TO  THE  ARCTIC  REGIONS.  45  j 

proved  on  examinatCb  L  fc^^^^^  having  as  it 

.  ^  the  eleventh,  for  the  first  time  b^  it  ,1  u  '  ^°"'^  "'"  <«"  «" 
standing  which,on  the  ?ol£g  da'v  water  """'  '»"»-'. "«^-ith- 
in  several  places,  and  there  we?e,Janvnnr^^fu  '■J'"*''"^  '^°"^'» 
on  to  Saturday  the  w^^hL        .•       7  P°°'*  °"  ^''^  ice.     Hence, 

fine,andatotLsLdereidiZS^^^^^  1"??^  ''"'"S  '"""«''•"« 
ice  was,  of  course,  still  dTssofSfht,  K  T/'  u"^  'now,  while  the 
wldom  reached  the  fieez  rnn^n^/  '^°"Sh  the  thermompter  at  night 
time,  was  52°.  *'^««"'g.PO'nt,  as  its  highest  tjegree.  in  the  dty- 

o>rre'teaTht'at7hfsteT^ 

were^ut  two  or  three  Tetrles  SJ^^T'"'^"'  ''^'^^'  «^  least, 

work^of  dissolution  was  K  ^^    ?  ^^^  ^^"'^^-     ^he  greiit 

^   more  rapidly  than  "n  the^nrefef  n^  '  '*  "'f\«g'-««d  by  all,  much 

aummeraniLl8we?enow^f!«Sy^.'''"  at  the  same  time.     The 

ducks  and  a^tsrw7r2\l^ledTSr\'"-/''°"*  ^'^^  ^°^«"  "^ 
«t  various  times.     Some  w«rt  Z       i   ^'  ^^^'^""^  """"^  °ther  birds 

%nir r  t''^^^^^^^  n^r  ;irnr "  ^'"^  ^'^'^^-^  ^-  - 

of  du1kro^thi^i:yrb"inTtK^^^^^^^^         g-^  »,.at 

for  a  long  time:  t&ero„  ofh?rr^^^'®  ?'""^ 
reserved  f^r  the  sici  ^aVA/rJaV''??':??-'*'''  .^'^T'"''  ^^-^ 
went  forward  with  a  sledeSToad  o%  i  i*"®  t^.«?ty-fifth,  a  party 
turning,  they  reported  thafthV^  and  prqvisions;  and,  on  re- 
snow.  ^'l  di5  ^Tfind  t  so  bad' a  A""''  '°''''fr'^  ^^^^^^nd  sSl 
another  load  on  the  fol  o^„„  ^  represented,  in  proceeding  with 
returned  to  send  on  the  oth-.^'  n'^'c «  ^"J'^^^  ^^'*=h  stage,  I 
'  were  finished.  The  weathpr  H  •  •^''Saturday  night,  the  sledges 
the  former,  in  its  inUfnU^,^^^^^^^  ^h.fof 

terially  mprove.     Manv  «o.  !^    '  .  *"®  temperature  ma- 

deer;  1.nd  £)me  birdaZe  k  leTTn'r;?  ""f  """l^  tracks  of  rein- 

30M.     On  this  inn JIJ    II   !'  '"<^'»<^'"g  forty  dovekies. 
turned  in  good  1  e^^^^^^  P»7  T^^'^h  ha'd  gone  forward  re- 

able;  and  L  diurn  FranL  ofT?."^  '''"/°''^' ^''^Z  """"^  ^«^°"'- 
In  the  beginning  of  Jun!  ?L  «  *^"'P«"t"'-«  «^a»  ^om  38°  to  42°. 
able,  as  the  leather  was  vert  .nfr^!."^  exceedingly  unfavour- 
in  the  precedinrones  at  the  J^l '  i  ?'  temperature  lower  than 
though  there  wfs  ^ery  ittle  r^n  H.^^"!  ^'-  ^°'''^''  ''"^P^ovei, 
The'ixtremes  wei^iVand  [rlT"^         *"""'«"?  """ch  snow! 

We  ha*advanced  the  tent«  .Si   '        ^^^  '"^'"'  P'''"  35*°. 

tion  forwards;  which   thoj^h  Sut  Tr   "*°?'  'V''«  '^«°"d  P°«" 

than  a  hundred  milw  of  a?„"*  frl^J"''^'  °^'  '^l"''-*'*  more 

to  bring  up  the  loads  which  w««?'  S       ^^"^  necessity  of  returning 

in  any  other  manner!    wtZ^^S  T  '"'^  °"  *°  '^^^'  P'*««» 

V  •«"^-     ^e  were  still,  however,  encumbei^ed  by  the 


i  /»?'i 


V 


-4   U  ..    . 


I   • 


«T~      .-.,:  .      Lfir     ... 


"■^'S-*-   .     -•*    ,, 


SECOND  VOTAOE  09  DISCOVSRY 


4S)(i 

■  /  \ 

siick,  who  eould  not  walk  at  all;  while,  unfortunately,  they  were  the 

^  three  heaviest  men  in  the  crew. '   Some  others  could  barely  walk, 

/but could  give  no  assistance  in  drawing  the  sledges.'    It  was  well 

/  thSt  some  appeared  in  good  health;  while  all  were  now  in  hopes  of 

/  a  speedy  embarkation,  and  of  an  ultimate  escape  from  the.  miserable 

'   abode  of  people  who  had,  on  the  whole,  been  sufficiently  miserable 

in  all  ways. 

Some  of  the  numerous  persons  with  whom  I  have  conversed, 
since  my  return,  on  the  history  of  our  voyage,  have  suggested  to 
ine,  on  this  subject,  a  remark  which  I,  assuredly,  did  not  make  at 
the  time,  and  should  not  have  made  now.  It  certainly  never  struck 
bae,  and  I  am  sure  it  did  not  enter  the  thoughts  of  one  of  my  of- 
ficers, that'we  had  ever  done,  or  were  now  doing,  aught  more  for 
'the  sick  men  of  our  crew  than  was  our  duty,  and,  not  less,  our  in-> 
elination.  Undoubtedly,  it  was  a  very  heavy  labour  to  carry  on- 
wards these  sick  aiid  enfeebled  men,  encumbered  as  we  were:  it  was 
a  far  more  serious  mattery  when  even  the  liveq  of  the  able  might 
be  sacrificed  to  a  duty  which  thus  curtailed  our  means  of  conveying 
forward  the  provisions  and  accommodations  necessary  to  our  own 
existence,  and  wl^itt  is  still  more,  were  indispensable  to  the  accom- 
'  plishment  of  our  Ultimate  hopes,  a  return  to  England.  It  was  also, 
as  I  have  since  been  told,  a  great  sacrifice  of  our  own  comforts,  to 
have  reserved  our  best  and  most  delicate  food  for  the  sick,  to  have 
nursed  and  tended  those  who  had  ceased  to  be  aught  but  an  encum- 
brance, and  of/whom,  some,  as  we  full  well  knew,  were  not  des- 
tined to  survive.  That  may  be  very  true:  I  believe,,that  as  regarded 
ourselves,  we  did  wrong;  it  is  possible  that  such  notions  may  have 
occurred  to  me  for  a  moment  jslr  two  since  my  return,  when  the 
ingratitude/and  obloquy  which  I  have  experienced  from  those  very 
persons  in/ particular  has  vexed  me;  and  I  believe  that  when  the 
history  o^the  wreck  <^f  the  Meduse  has  been  recited  to  me  by  those 
friends,]!  may  have  sometimes  wondered  why  we  should  so  far 
have  differed;  little  willmg  as  I  am  to  remember  any  thing  which 
may  n^ke  human  nature  appear  in  an  evil  light,  or  to  add  to  the 
bitter /feeling  which  England  too  often  en^rtains  towards  its  neigh- 
boury  But  in  spite  of  all  that  might  have  th,en  occurred  to  our 
^  mimis,  though  I  cannot  recollect  that  it  did  once  occur,  in  spite  of 
jRicJn  inconvenience  as  we  did  really  suffer,  and  such  hazards  as  we 
did  risk,  and  in  spite  of  the  ingnatitude  which  I  much  fear  I  have  / 
experienced  where  I  ought  not,  I  imagine  that  I  did  no  more  than/ 
it  was  proper  to  do,  and  which  I  should  do  again  in  the  same  cir-i 
^umstances:  yet  is  this  not  boasting,  since  I  am  sure  that  every 
/British  officer  would  do  the  same,  as  I  know  that  every  Christian 
man  ought,  in  any  situation.  If  it  is  true  that  France  really  wants 
such  a  lesson,  I  most  be  sorry;  but  I  fear  that  no  lesson  will  infli^- 
ence  those  who  have  not  in  their  hearts  the  inclination  to  do  right, 


a  ■     / 


■.  V. 


\ 


;'  ;--  1*  TH«  ABCTIC  REGIONS.  .        /  431 

of  their  moti4m.y^veirwhhhe?d  "''''''^' '" Jf  puni-hment 

While  the  thermometer  at  niehts^^^^^^^^  "  **'  w.th  »now  .„d  slee* 
point.  OuvpresSledmZw[lZ^LZ^'  'T  ^'^T«  ^''^  ^^^^'^K 
norther  freiL  animal  food  ThanT^ft;  ?^^^^^^^^  had  here,  no5 
g^ns;  which  was  not  muteh  ivet^LT  '^''"l'^  P''ocure  >  oue 
ducks  and  dovekiea  •«?«««-  ^    '       ''®  "  consisted  but  of  a  few 

and  the  ,;of  ;t  iVai^ed  anK^^^^^     T'"'^^  ^°'-  *"«  »"""«»' 
obliged  to  return  toTfor  tif..  .1?  •  ^  *^^  ^'"^  ''«  "hould  be 

a  loss  to  W  hoiJ  irwer^to    "^'^'"*?  ^^""K'^  -omewhat  at  , 
event.  J°°'' ''°'^ '^^  were  to  subsist  under  such  an  unfortunate 

Bauy  bV'^i^avX'chtLf"  etom  Jhe  journey  to 

rocks  and  water,  was  a  nSvel  sSht  »^^  •  cliffs,  intermixed  with 
wouldhivebeeninteresUn^  pv!nl  Ai"  this. dearth  of  evei^ts, 
spectacle.  FaninSlKTc^l'?^".  C"  K»9  ?P»e«did  7»  • 
&t  ice  td  a  great  distance  aS'.hn^"'^^'*  all  before  it;  breaking  the 
/Pessary,  th.TMn„eiTwhiSi£y^  ^^^  ^^"^  ^^"^  "O'^ne- 
be  eo^'red  withrgm^ntot  .i^clTdTy:;:  oTea^Jr  '""""^  "^ 
Al^,Tn7sotrn;rrl^KA^^^^^ 

as  theup  are  some  wh^  never^  fLl.  /i,'"  Pr"!-?"**.  P^^^ry, 
Loutherbourg  on  this  subject  £ /n?^^^  fP'""*^"*  P'^*"'*  ^^ 
scribe  such  aS  occurrence  as  thi/m.r^K  *'""P'„  °"  "^  P"*"*  *°  *>«" 
fail  to  befeeble.YS  there  w£Ti  •  f  superfluous,  as  it  cannot 
adequately  de^ibe ,?  n  eveiAh.  n?' "*^  "*  '^"*  '^*''«''»  «°"'d  I 
theleanest  dr^^n^VouTKifc^  or  represent  it  in 

witnessed  what  Switzerland  Z  ,?„  J    T      *''®"  *^°'*  '^*"»  ^'■^e 
gigantic  aMhat  mTy  l^deU^Jn^^^^^^^^^^  tl\T  '^\  '""'^  ^""' 
gaming  in  magnitide.  as  iKocirLl^^^ 
thundering  doSn  an  irre/uhr  Sii-  •»     ^i-^?  P^gress,  and  then 
breaking,  fill  ithadLfe;fc  ^'Z%  "^Zf'"^'  "?^ 

rel^tronVtSri  A1\1  V^^^^^^^^  ^  ¥  ^to 

taneoua  as  it  was  unexXted     Th «!«,  f "'  l"  '^"  *"  •"»*""•- 

over  our  heads  soSfwM  iron^  L7  """""^''^jhat  had  towered  - 
aware: the  instaSof  S  mSiorwas  tt"?  Tf "!!'*'  "^y*  ^"''°'^»  "^ 
it  seemed  to  have  coiriL^Shl^^e  ceLlt'Sad' n^"^^  "T*?  "^^^ 
sea:  no  not  into  a  sei  of  wrter  butT^«  ^f  •  *'*'*.  P'"»j5ed  mto  the 
glassy  fields  which  had  sotonXund  ^in  11%  ^'f^\^S^^P  those 
hut  a  feeble  mi„^>.Ji;:;ft&J^ 


/" 


:/ 


\  ' 


-'f'  3 


.     A":v.  7:  ■■■:■■ 


\.''-\'v^7"V''^'''''''"'''^V,^'^''"'"'T^''X:-*'''^^^^^        -. 


las 


SECOND  VOTAOE  OF  DISCOVERT 


noise  exceeding  thunder,  and  prolonged  even  like  the  reverbera' 
fionsof  the  thunderbolt,  until  all  settled  again  into  the  dead  and 
icy  stillness  of  its  former  repose,  yet  to  leave  that  new  mountain 
in  the  waves,  a  record  of  this  catastrophe,  as  long  as  record  could  be 
of  tho^  mountains  which  the  sun  would  ere  long  melt,  and  tM 
wind's  float  ofi  to  other  and  far  distant  regions. 

7th.  The  shooting  of  fifty  dovekies  yesterday  gave  the  men  a  . 
good  Sunday's  dinner;  and  the  last  divine  service  We  trusted  ever 
to  attend  in  this  hT>use,  was  performed.  It  was  the  commencement 
of  a  farewell  which  all  hoped  would  be  eternal;  but  every  one 
must  answer  for  the  feelings  under  which  he,  for  the  expected  Isjst  ^ 
time,  repeated  the  Lord's  prayer,  and  heard  himselt  dismissed  in 
those  words  which  promise,  to  those  who  deserve  it*  thf^  peace 
which  passes  a|l  understanding.  1  trust  there  were  few  who  did 
Bi|>t^j;eGolleet  to  return  their  own  private  thanksgiving  for  s6  long  a 
"reservatiob  amid  such  dangers  and  privations,  and  who  did  not    ■* 

^t  up  their  own  prayers  for  help  in  the  great  undertaking  now 
Impending,  on  the  success  or  failure  of  which  must  Jturn  ft^e  event 
CI  life  or  death  to  all.  ]L    ' 

Sth.  On  Monday  every  thing  was  ready,  and  we  too  were  9s 
repared  as  we  were  anxious  to  quit  this  dreary  place,  as  we  hoped, 
lor  ever.  Yet,  with  those  hopes,  there  were  mingled  many  fears; 
enough  to  render  it  still  but  too  doubtful  in  all  our  minds  whether 
we  might  not  yet  be  compelled  to  tectum:  to  return  once  more  to 
despair,  and  perhaps,  to  return  but  to  die.  To  have  been  able,  con- 
fidently, to  say.  Adieu  for  ever,  would  have  been  indeed  to  render 
this  a  delightful  parting;  when  even  the  shelter  which  We  had 
received  was  insufficient  to  balance  all  the  miseries  which  we  had 
flufiered;  miseries  to  have  extinguished  every  sense  of  regret  that 
we  could  have  felt  in  pronouncing  those  two  words,  which,  it  is 
sai'd,  have  never  yet,  under  any  circumstances,  been  pruuunced 
without  pain.  This  may  be  true;  I  almost  believe  that  iP^ould 
have  bpen  true  even  in  our  case,  though  in  parting  from  our  misera- 
ble winter  Ifouse  of  timber  and  snow,  we  left  nothing  behind  us-—;^ 
but  misery  and  the  recollection  of  misery^,  since,  in  comparison  '^"^^ 
with  what  might  have  been,  it  was,  heaven  kt^ows,  a  shelter  from 
evils  far  greater,  from  death  itself^  and,  such  home  as  it  was,  a 
Home;  that  strange  entity  from  which  man  never  parts,  bad  as  it 
may  be,  without  reluctismce,  and  never  leaves  but  with  some  strange 
longing  to  see  it  again.  But  true  aft  may  be  the  pain  of  an  adieu,  or 
the  fancy  of  leaving  for  ever  a  home,  or  true  as  may^  be,  reversely 
the  pleasure  of  quitting  for  ever  the  scene  of  past  miseries,  neither 
the  pleasure  nor  the  pain  was  oars.  Scarcely  the  feeling  of  a  fare- 
well, for  hope  or  regret,  for  pain  or  for  pleasure,  was  in  any  iqind, 
when  we<c6ldly  departed  in  the  evening  with  bur  thc^  sledges,  t» 
encounter  such  fate  as  Providence  migh^  have  in  st9i<^r  iu. 


•S8,. 


\: 


TO  THB  AscTic  uaiom. 


489 


,  '■  '■r^ 


The  aick,  who  formed  our  neat  diffifultv  bor»  th.  n^  '^ 
well,  and  we  reached  our  fir!r.talio3^^^ 
fine  day,  and  the  warmeat  that  had  yet  occun*?.  ih5 i'.  .    " 

,    being  480.    In  the  afternoon,  at  thrL.  we  nro?*^^^^ 

infinite  toil,  through neariy  impaUb^wZ'^S l!?!l"'7'*5 
more  difficult  to  ua  by  the  care  wh  ch  Z '.!!?      were  rendered 

Sewrfaltoil,.  third  poalUoS^  .  iL  J.tef'"'' '""'".P"- 

•  good  mefly  of  d.J«kiM.  „^  ^w  „„t  Xrd  ^I^'''''^ 
brakfal;  which  w»  Mt  la.  ne««rJttr;i3^™!'S!l 
M  mwt  of  ua  were,,  aod  neverthdeM  comoolled  Kd™  S"  '"' 

^14M,  15M,  16M,  I7MVo  l9tA.    Sunday  was  made  a  d»tr  «f      * 

•  considerable  r.yer  running  into  the  head  of  the  bar^On  th  *  SJi 
low.n|;d.ythei,^was  examined  from  the  hilfsrbu    w«  notCt 
breaking  m  the  offing:  the  weather  being  istm  and  £0^  but  !J J? 
times  foggy.    The  men  were  employed  In  V^irin-?fe'£?a^^^^^^ 
in  preparations  for  embarkinc.    The  im  mn^J   f  »i.     •   "*  ""^ 

day. ..  „«H^  jta..,  co>»l.Dtly,  id  w.  ^^1i,„^  ^« 


.-i^.l 


--^^ 


i 


=!*?= 


54 


^ 


r<-    - 


««5»K-,«,tHE»»,-,,.. 


■  "•IK'fc 


\       ^^" 


484 


ncovD  voTAoa  or  ducovvbt 


J 


hundred  doTekl^  were  killed,  m  that  our  supply  of  fresh  meat  wu 
respectable,  if  not  great  '^ 

20ih,2lat  to  SOM.  Op  the  twentieth,  the  weather  became  fine 
•gain;  the  ice  continued  to  move,  and  the  caulking  of  the  boats  was 
continued.  An  easterly  wind  made -the  thermometer  fall  to  SS**. 
On  Sunday  the  ice  was  reported  to  be  broken  up  in  the  oflBng;  but 
alter  three  days,  without  any  thing  material  to  note,  except  thtf 
killing  of  fifty  dovekies,  it  remained  close  packed  on  the  shore,  so 
that  It  was  impossible  for  us  to  move.  The  weather,  from  this  time, 
continued  variable,  with  occasional  rain  and  wind,  together  with 
fogs,  till  the  thirtieth;  as  the  only  events  worth  noticing,  were  the 
improvement  of  the  sick,  and  the  killing  of  soive  more  birda.for 
oi)r  table. 

81*/.  We  had  now  seen  the  ice  leave  the  shore  at  last,  but  had 
yesterday  been  prevented  from  embarking,  by  a  heavy  fog. '  TMs 
ending  in  rain  and  sleet,  with  an  adverse  east  wind,  on  the  last 
morning  of  the  month,  we  did  not  load  the  boats  till  mid-day;  but 
•8  it  proved,  in  vain,  since  H  came  to  blow  and  rain  so  heavily  all 
the  afternoon  and  evening,  <hat  it  was  impossible  to  embark.  In 
every  way  it  was  desirable  to  pit  this  place;  as  the  stones  had  now 
beg^n  to  fall  from  the  clifl%  io  consequence  of  which  two  men  ex- 
perienced severe  contusions,  and  one  narrowly  escaped  with  his  life. 
Thus  ended  July.  .  - 

Of  that  month,  any  siimmary  is  superseded  by  the  pr^eeding 
journal;  it  is  almost  sufficient  to  note  that  the  meaniemperature 
had  been  36«,  and  the  extremes  2eP  aJid  SO*  plus.  It  had  not  been 
an  unfavourable  one  to  oUr  prospects,  on  the  whole,  while  we  had 
no  right  to  expect  an  open  sea  in  thes^  regions  at  so  early  a  period, 
far  less  in  a  strait  which  had  exhibited  such'  perseverance  in  pre- 
serving 1^  ice  through  the  whole  summer,  during  the  preceding 
years.  That  the  sick  had  improved  was  a  very  consolii\g  circum- 
stance;, while  our  situation  was,  at  least,  one  of  joint  exertion  and 
hope. 


}'-■■ 


.-].- 


^v'-<*-^"  I  ■<■*'.''■ '4V .."^----^iU; 


TO  T«l  ASCTIC  MOIOm. 


435 


? 


CHAPTER  ^VI. 


\ 


-^ 


of  notice.     The  prenilini  nitur.  nf^  r  ""'  "  '"'*  """I"/ 

•nd  the  coriKqoence  m*  ,rbIo.t  .I^,t  "'^'■'''"  norlh-faiiteri/! 
t«!p  u.  cloMly  impriSd  to  „,„  ^l"  I'"  '5°"  "i*  ice,  and  10 

poiiitof  thebay:  Iwt  bei««  Sf  .      !?»'»  ""■"'1  <l»  soutKern 

•«r  .Ijeir  p«.en,  ~.di.ta„,  "d  toK?„'' 11*'?  .■»  |!«^ 
The  Highland  squ  ra  who       '>-^-  f"'^'ge  »n  evil  antioipationg. 

•  gale  of  wind,  dis^ayrmore  IRltZ  L*'""*  °^  *'**  '»»«^»V  «•» 
right  to  poasei       ^  ^l^ledge  thai>a  landaman  has  wy 

eoL'rua^SlZtt'ha'r  ^T''?-*-""'^  ^---be. 
ceased  to  find  it  '/xKei  » IsThri,"^*'' r/*^  '^*»'">  ^'^ad 
given  to  thinking,  iUsZS^Z^^^^  '"'¥'•"  "»*  »"«h 
(and  I  am  sorry  to  sav  in  ih!„lr  «T  '**°""  °^  *'»«  P'*'*''*  day 
%.  of  my  junior  ^rv  ^  Ind  1"?'*  "ore  than  the/did  in  thJ 
«  all  the  wirie*'  for  iT  St  i^JfT'  ?f""'*'*'y  "d  ceruinly,  «« 
this  be  trueTr  S  and  tL"y^^"'riS  "°°""""k'  ««y  whethe^ 
desp  te  of  the  nahrv  f»n»,-I\^i  j  °°'**  "^"  ^^o  w  1  so  sav. 
of  t'hese  day^oTSJ^sTir  'But  P^?"'^'''*,  "ltn»  philanthi^p^  - 
to  discuss  at  present    «/A/idlfl*''?  "  •°  ™ -erious  matter 

-);.. Spanisif  or  Italian  ^;;;^:'??U'r 

^      •     '  ■    ■ '   '  :    ■   ■'       A' 


-*- 


( 


tf""1 "  '•♦; 


,J^. 


h, 


I 


^ 


L.; 


!:■ 


436 


SECOND  VOYA0K  Or  DMOOVKBY 


■!!°"!!!  Sf^l'*?"*  pillowed  in  this  manner:  better  was  it  that  theV 

Jahould  ^rk  thetaaelvea  into  utter  weariness,  that  they  should  bo 

hungej^M  to  llnnk  only  of  their  stomachs,  fall  asleep  and  dream  of 

nothing  but  fc  better  dinner,  as  they  awoke  to  hope-and  laboui-for 

It,  and  that  their  slf>ep  should  fie,  not  On  the  pillow  of  the  proverb. 

J)ut  on  a  couch  of  snow,  sufficient  to  impede  all  reflections  but  the 

wish  for  a  better  bed  after  a  better  supper,  and  the  gnawing  desire 

of  more  and  better  on  the  following  day.  *      ' 

The  shooting  of  waterfowl  furnished  indeed  some  occupation  to 

.  those  who  were  worthy  of  being  tjrusted  with  powder  and  ghot;  but 

1  beheve  the  best  occupjition,  toalet  of.  such  starvelt  wretches  as 

we  were,  was  to  eat  the  game,  not  to  shoot  it.    Erert  morning  now 

rose  on  the  hopes  of  a  good  supper:  If  that  came,  it^as  more  than 

welcome;  and  when  it  ^id  not„why  then  there  was  the  chince  of 

one  to-morrow.     I  do  not  say  that  the  supper  which  was  missed 

was  equivalent  to  the  one  that  was  eaten ;  since  hope  or  expectation 

\'  nH°**  "J"?*"®  *•**"  wishing,  fill  a  maq's  stomach;  biit  it  is  certain 

\  thalr  the- sick  recovered  rapidly,  and  the  well  improved  iA  strenirth; 

\nor  00UI4  I  doubt  that  their  present  state  of  m1nd  was,  in  this. 

freely  Jess  efficacious  than  the  broileJ  ducks  and  the  dotekie  se^ 

■pie*;,    •*\  J. .  -      ^  ■ 

To  lookXout  from  the  to|r|>f  the  hill,  for  the  state  of  the  ice,  was 
another  occupation,  for  any  ot^e  that  chose;  and  it  was  exercise,  while 
It  served  to  wastfe  the  timej  It  was  not,  like  Behring's  unhapDv 
men.  to^  watch  for  the  ship  that  yvas  destined  never  to  appear,  and, 
when  the  day  closed,  to-retirtf  once  more  to  darkness  and  despair. 
Ihe  day  of  relief  might  be  delayed,  but  it  wal  long  yet  before  it 
•would  be  time  to  feaT  that  it  was  not  to  arrive;  while,  ill  every  chance 
Of  ■  breeze,  m  every  shower  of  rain,  and  in  every  movement  of  tb« 
ice,  however  minute,  there  was  sufficient  to  maibUin  hope,  and  to 
render- all  anxiOMs  for  ihe  to-morrow;  as  each,  on  reUring  for  the 
night,  felt  inclined  to  say,  yet  not  under  the  same  motives  as  the 
wretches  in  the  Castle  of  Indolence,  "  Thank  GimI,  the  dav  is 
done.'*  •  ,    "         . .  ' 

14M.'  It  was  on  the  fourteenth'  that  hope  became  anxiety,  when-« 
a  lane  of  water  was  for  the  first  tiqae  seen,  leading  to  the  northward;  - 
and  not  many,  I  believe,  slept,  under  the  anUcipatioas  of  what  the 
next  day  might  bring.  15M.  On  this,  all  were  employed  in  cut- 
ting the  ice  which  obstructed  the  shore,  as  early  as  four  o'clock  in 
the  nnorning;  and  the  tide  having  risen  soon  after,  with  a  fine  west- 
erlv  breeze,  we  launched  the  boats,  embaiicedtl^e  stores  and  the 
tick,  and,  at  eight  o'clock,  were  udHer  way. 

We  really  were  under  way  at  last;  and4t  waaour  business  to  for- 
it  that  we  had  been  in  the  same  circumsUnces,  the  year  before,  in 
le  same  p)ac^  to  feel  that  the  time  for  exertion  was  now  come,  and 
those  exertions  to  be' at  length  rewarded;  to  exchange  hope  for  cer- 
Uinty,  and  to  ^ee,  in  Ihe  toind'ff  eye,  the  whole  strait  open  before  us, , 


£ 


^.v 


x^. 


ti•ii^fe4*-^, 


/ 


/^*"- 


the  Sixteenth,  that  spot  to  ti.e  north  of  ;?^ ''     '"^"'Kht;  reaching,  on  " 
tents  on  th.^lwenty.eighth  of  ruiu,?^.,-.^''"'*  ""T  ''«^  pitchetf  ouj 
not  ,f  all  were  here  quite  free  ffrVnnr'f^''^'"?^^*''-  ^know 
hope,     The,differen(/e  in  t^me  u«  S  'f '°r  '"^  *»>"?  ""r  ne^   j^ , 
tho^  day.  pasa  aa  they  had  Zne  h,  thJ  f  iT"'''?  *'*^"'  «"''  «hould 
fate  to  return  to  our  lait  winter's  h^m/     f"!*"'  '^  ""«''»  »*'"  be  dflr 
.\it  waa  butytob  easy  t^an^  c  Lte    ?hTfi"";'  't"''' '°  «"''  our  tK/ 
>,-.n  rfrozgn  grave,  and  ffi' i^fho'm  ''''°"?  f*""'""^  ^'  -hould 
We  found'here  no  paMa«?to  thlV,,L    71°*^  ^'''"  •"*»  f°«e«l/ 
.       -till  extended  toward?  the  north  -It h^^^^       **"* '''«  '»"«  "^  ^vi 
duration  than  was  indis,^nrb,e  for  J^  t°"7"^  "''"  °^  "°  ^""g^' 
open  water  increased  in  breadth-  and  «t  t  k^'"'^  Proceeded,  the 
■^hed  our  former  position  at  the  nor/hi    1^''*  '"  *«  «^en'"g  ^e 
^  V.ow/rom  the  hill  here,  showed  tha7&-T ''"P*^  ''f  AmeriS.  A 
""^'Hf-ir^-rd  wa.  in  suclvTstete^i  Sfc  ^/^^  "^^^hward  .rtd 
,      but  as  It  blew  too  hard  to  velrture  a£^3iS"  *.u^  "^'"'"K  *brough  it; 
pur  tenta  fo^  rest.         ,^       ^f^.'^'^W^''  ^bej^ght,  we  pifched 
,     .    17M.     Atthreeinkemorninir^S2;g;.,  A  ^ 

'ng  an  additional  note  ^T^nrliJJt^^''^  '"Ce  mor6,  leav. 
the  former  was  concealef^rt^^SS^It.  J^^l''??'^  ??«««  wK^ 
j^f  ■•?>  rowing,  untU,  at  nooX^^^  ^f  °"  ^°  tbe  easU 

ce,  through  many  streams  TffZtin^&  *''®  ?••»«  "^  ^bo  packed 
^extremity  wastut  a  mil^i^Sthffi'  ""^^  ^f  ^'^^^d  tbt? 
then  springing  up.  enablfed  us  to  round  {^Lk    ^  ~"t^r'y  breeze 

yf,^-»Vt«^don  throughit,andrSed^^        ^"u""^  ^^^  '^"^r 
at  three  in  the  afternoim^     In  .  f!L  k        ®  ^''*®'""  'bore  of  thestrait 

Jat  for  which  wejXrmefi;  waited T.J  "''■  ^'^  "'  '«"8th  effeS 
which.  ,t  ,>  likely,  could  not  have  been  II  \"'!l  .'°  """>*  ^^yS  and 

""A^SslS^^^t^^'^"^  ^^^^ 
fen  and  unexpecteraSii°n,  Ij  ^^r^  *«  '*«  <^«Prices,  and  to  its  sud- 
to  find  that-solid  mass  of  ocean  wK  u"«®  '''^'^  *bat  of  magic, 
mories,  which  we  had  locked  a?  fo^^^Z'^*  *°°  ^''^''  ^"^  °»'  ^  e! 
for  ever  in  a  repose  which  nSthin^^M  t^  ^?'"  "» 1^  '^  ''a*  fixed, 
converted  intp  water;  navirbir^nH      ^-^T/^^""  ^'''^^b,  sudden^ 

most  forgotten  whatit'wasffloauttr^^^^^  l^  "*' ^'^°  bad  a|^ 
Jmes  scarcely  to  be  believed"  and  'he  whT  ?"  ^i''  "«»»•  '^  was  at 
had  for  a  moment  to  renew  the  r„„„^r^  1°^^*^  *°  '^ake  again. 
»eaman  on  his  own  eSme^t  th^  J'"k°"  ^""^  *»«  ^«  «t  length  ,' 


T— ^ — r 


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t 


I 


-M' 


438 


8EC0KD  VOTAOK  OF  DlltlOVSRT 


this  breeze  to  a  gale  accompani^  by  hard  squalls,  to  take  shelter  on' 
a  beach  twelve  mijes  west  of  Cape  York;  having  made,  on  this  day, 
a  run  of  seventy-two  miles^  i  ; 

18/A.  The  wind  moderating,  and  at  length  becoming  calm,  we 
were  obliged,  in  the  morning,  to  take.to  the  oars;  and  finding  no  ice 
to  obstruct  us,  rowed  along  to  the  eastward,  and  ty  midnight  rested 
for  a  short  time  at  the  cape  to  the  east  of  Admiralty  inlet.  19/A. 
On  the  next  day,  the  weather  beine  the  skm^,  we  were  haltVtray  be- 
tween this  place  and  that  termed  Navy-board  inlet,  by  eight  in  the 
corning;  when,  the  men  being  exhausted  with  nearly  twenty  hours^ 
rowing,  we  stopped  ^^n  the  beach  and  pitched  our  tents.-  The* 
weather  had  not  yet  become  warm,  clear  as  the  water  might  be; 
since  the  night  temperature  had  never  exceeded  SS*',  nor  that  of  the 
day  40".     .  •  '       '  ^  ^      ;> 

We  were  soon  driven  from  this  exposed  place  by  the  coming  bii 
of  an  easteHy  wind;, and  thus,  taking  once  more  to  the  oars,  we 
■rowed  alone  among  i(iebergs,  tillme  arrived  at  an  excellent  harbour, 
receiving  a xensiderable  streamy  where  we  were  protected  by  these 
heavy  masses,'  while  w<  ceul/,  if  nfecesaary;  haul  the  boats  into  a 
pool  at  the  mouth  of  4hc  rive)F.  We  had  thus  gained  five  miles 
'moi^(i;  and^^beihe  six  or!seven  to  the  west  of  Navy-lM^rd  inlet,  were 
ivilhin  eighty  of  Possession  bay. 

20/A.  It  b^n  to  blow  hard  last  night  with  a  north-east  wind, 
and  a  heavy  sei,  which  continued  this  day;  blocking  us  up  com- 
pletely, but  allowing  us  ttf  haul  up  the  boats  for  repair.  ftUt.  Grow- 
ing worse  at  lengtji^  we  brough^them  into  the  inner  harbour  which 
the  pool  tormed;  when,  increasing  to  a  violent  gale,  all  the  icebergs 
which  had  arftinged  themselves  into  an  outer  one,  broke  away  and 
disappeared.  There  was,  with  this  storm,  a  steady  fall  of  mixed 
rain  and  snow,  and  the  thermometer  subsided  at  34°. 

S2</,  23</,  24/A.  It  had  become  prudent  to  reduce  ourselves,  onqe 
more,  to  a  two-thirds  allowance;  and  thus  we  were  imprisoned  on  the 
twenty-third' and  twenty-fourth,  hy  a  continuance  of  the  gale^  with 
fog  and  rain;  the  thermometer  falling  to  8d°;  a  degree  of  cold  which 
was  severely  felt  by  the  sick  people. 

25th.  The  wind  at  length  abated,  and  the  sea  came  down,  so  that 
we  launched  the  boats;  and  being  by  that  time  calm,  we  rowed  to  the 
eastward  across  Nayy-board  jnlet,  passing  through  several  streams 
of  ice;  wl»en,  the  men. being  exhausted  by  twelve  hours' labour, 
we  found  a  harbour  after  a  progress  of  ten  miles,  and  pitched  our 
tents  at  the  mouth  of  another  river;  there  resting,  and  repairing 
'  the  boats',  which  were  not  in  the  best  condition. 

86/A.  At  four  in  the  morn  jng,  when  all  were  asleep,  the  look- 
out man,  David  Wood,  thought  he  discovered  a  sail  in  the  offing, 
atadm^ediately  informed  Commander  Ross,  who,  by  means  of  his 
glaslnMn  saw  that  it  was  in  reality  a  ship.  All  hands  were  im- 
medllU^  out  of  their  tents  and  on  the  beach j  discussing  her  rig. 


4>^ 


"S|i»«„^B',^ 


!.<,     . 


«*. 


■0'-l-^ 


TOTHXABCTlOBBaiOM. 


4S9 


AN o  time  was  however  InB*.  »k«  u  *  V^ 

made  by  hurn^ngZT^^V^t:''  "^"t^unched,  and  si.n.h 
we  left  our  liUle*harbofr  rt,Tx'  jfe'^Tf '''•'*'«^"^  ^'"barkafS 
omng  to  alternate  calma,  and  Tight  °1™  M?"-  P"?*^"  ^«»  ted.W 

whe^'r^''  ^'V  towMMhet^^^'ani'irr;'''''^^'^^^^^^^^^^ 
,      T^^^^^  fhe  was,  ahouM  aoon  have  t!^    i     ^"i  ^^^ained  calm 

breweiurttben  aprarS^^D   a«d  IJ^^^"'^^^^^^^        Unluckily  a 

V       ward;  ty  which  Lan!  K  fi    Ja'tt?'  ?"  "^ >  ^''-^  ~"St! 

"m  ■'^l™'  ^hile  the  other  two  W  .ft    7     foretaottt  wka  soon  left 

^^-Me  hopes  of  cuttin^;^  ^^  '"""  ^°  ^''^  ««*^ 

appeared  tXy^n^  t:^  heX^- 1'  *?.*"''  "«thwar^,-hich 
-he  hove  to,  that'shf  hadr-een  us  yfcfe  *»  <>««  time:Vhet 
be  the  case,  as  she  soon  bore  up  undM  ir'^""' P^^^**  "ot  to 
was  apparent  that  she  was  fast  leav?i^,  ^'\  '°  °o  long  time  it 
anxious  moment  that  we  had  vJ?v^«."*^*"<^'t  was  the  moit 

when,  most  fortunatelv  •»  f»  i    'i        ^?  ^«'*  comineuD  with  h*/ 
-     M-teieveno'crock^J'J:^^^^^^ 

lower  down  a  boat,  which  rowcS  .wL-.T*''  '"  ""»  aback,  a^d 
.    She  was  soon  alongside,  whTftheTo*?**'^  **''^'"-*'"  our  own! 
by  presuming  that  wt  had  met  «,  ?k     **® '"  command  addressed  us 
Jip.    This  Seing  an^Z^d  fn  tZ  affi™^""'^^*""^  andT^Toi 
the  nameof  his  vessel,  andexDw«L5«      *'•''?'  '  ^-equested  to  know 
I  »w  answerJd  that  it  was  ?Mh?SLT  "Vt  *?  •*«  *-k«"  on  & 
by  Captain  Ross;"  on  wh  "ch  I  sta^S  tt.°  i  ^""'  c""*^*  commS 
in  question,  and  my  people  the  cSwnfi  '  !^«»»he  identical  man 
who  commanded  this  boSt  w..^l    u''®  ^"*°''y-  That  the  mate 
t«.n  a.  he  .ppe.„,d  i  ^^^o  "ot  doubrtr  **  ^^is  ISbrm:: 
JlyS|;he«ledne«iof  ,i:„-  on  such  SL7^/'«>  '^'^  the  usui 
had  been  dead  two  yean     I  «.irffc?      °°'\he  assured  me  that  I 
whst  ought  toWe  ^"trul  a^coSirteT'*  ?'"'  howev^rXt 
what  pr^mrture  concision;  i  Ae&L*'!?*"*'T"'  ^aaa ime- 
«tf  US  might  have  shown  him/had  he  itn  !°"^  °^  ">«  ''hole  sS 
we  were  certainly  not  whalinSJiL?  *°  *"'*  ♦«  consider,  that 
^iTSt'^Wence^f  oir  W^^^^^^^  *hat  we  clrJlSl* 

our  backs,  and  in  oar  starved  fn^  ..1      °*  *°°  "o  impostors."  on 


- 1 


■^■^ij^^i^ 


440 


SECOND  VOTAOS  OV  DISCOVERT 


'  (« 


If 


it' 


1.4  ^ 


J. 

J 


to  eommunictte  his  information  on  board;  repeating  that  we  hid 
long  been  given  up  as  lost,  not  by  .theni-  alone,  but  by  all  England, 
As  we  approached  slowl/ after  him;  to  the  ship,  he  jumped  up 
the  side,  and  in  a  minute. the  rigging  was  manned;  while  we  were 
saluted  with  three  cheers  as  we  came  within  cable's  length,  and 
were  not  long  in  getting  on  board  of  my  old  vessel,  where  we  were  all 
received  by  Captain  Humphreys  with  a  hearty  seaman's  welcome. 
Though  we  had  not  been  supported  by  t>Ur  names  and  characters, 
we  should  not  the  less  faave,^claimed,  from  charity,  the  attentjons 
thftt  we  received,  fdr  never  wns  sefen  a  more  miserable-looking  set 
'  wretches;  while,  that  we  were  but  a  repulsive-looking  people, 
ne  of  us  could  doubt.  If,  to  be  poor,  wretchedly  pOor,  as  far  as 
our  presiant  property  was  concerifed,  was  to  have  a  claim  on 
arity,  po  one  could  well  deserve  it  more;  but,  if,  to  look  so,  be  td 
;hten  away  the  so  called  charitable,  no  beggar  that  wanders  in 
land, could  have  outdone  us  in  exciting  the  repugnknce  of  those 
ho  have  not  known  what  poverty  can  be.  Unshaven  since  I  know 
t  when,  dirty,  dressed  in  the  rags  gl  wild  beasts  instead  of  the 
iters  of  civilization,  and  sfarvedl  to  the  very  bones,  our  gaunt««nd 
Im  looks,  when  contrasted  with  thdse  of  the  wellHdresaed  and  well- 
id  men  around  us,  made  us  all  feel^  I  believe  for  thift  first  tinoe, 
hat  we  really  were,  as  well  as  what  we  seemed  to  others.  Povert]^ 
i  8  without  half  its  mark,  unless  it  be  contrasted  with  Wealth:  and 
vhat  we  might  have  known  to  be  true  in  the  past  days,  we  had  for- 
(otten  to  think  of,  till  we  Vere  thus'  reminded  of  what  we  tnily 
nrere,  as  well  as  seemed  to  be.  • 

But  the  ludicrous  soon  took'place  of  all  other  feelin|;9^i^  iodi 

II  crowd  and  sneh  confusion,  all  serious  thought  was  impossible, 

(vhile  thenew  buoyancy  of  oar  spirits  made  us  Abundantly  willing 

0  be  amused  by  the  scene  which  now  opened.    Every  man  was 
lungry  and  was  to  be  fed,  all  were  ragged  and  were  to  be  clothed, 

1  here  wm  not  one  to  whom  washing  was  not  indispensable,  ndf^flNM 
'  idibm  his  beard  did  wA  deprive  of  all  English  semblanee.  ajI, 
ei^err  thing,  too,  was  to  be  done  at  oiice;  it  was  washing,  dressing, 
riuving,  eating,  all  intermiogled,  it  was  all  the  materials  of  each  jum- 
Ued  together)  while,  in  the  midst  of  all,  there  were  interminable 
questions  to  be  asked  and  answered  on  all  sides;  the  adteiE^lnres  of 
the  yffitorv,  our  own  escapes,  the  politics  of  England,  iiid  the 
news  which  was  now  four  years  old.  But  »ll  sobsided  into  pc>ce 
at  last  The  sick  wer^  aeeomroodated,  the  seamen  disposed  ot^  and 
all  WM  done,  for  all  ^f  us,  which  eare  and  kindness  could  pe^ 
form.  Nig^t  at  length  brought  quiet  and  serious  thflfiM;hts;  and  1 
'i^st  there  was  not  one  man  among  us  who  did  not  thm  express, 
where  it  was  due,  his  gratitude  for  that  interposition  which  had 
raited  ua'all  from  a  despair  which  none  could  turn  lotpAt  and  hid 
brouriit  ua  from  the  very  borders  of  a  not  distant  grave,  to  life  and 
friends  and  civilization. 


ife- 


^k3Str^^_\jfi^i^ 


I 

d 
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d 
u 

c< 
d) 


TO  THE  ARCTIC  RKOIOirs. 


441 


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443 


SECOND  VOVAGK  OJ  DISCOVERT       '' 


•    \ 


"P 


the! 


some 

far  as 

vessel 

send 

^tempt 


pped; 


CHAPTER  LVII; 


Proceeditigs  on  board  of  the  Isabella — SurveL  of  the  coast — pnartt 
L  Arrival  at  Hull  and  irJ London.  I  i 

1838.  Jhipist  27<4.  Ow  conversing  with  Gtptain  Humphrey^  thb 
morning,  I  found  that  he  had  taken  twitnty-seven  fish,  which  wa(s  but 
two-thirds  of  a  cargo,  and  that  he  purpbsed  yet  to remaiii  oi»tiK 
time.    The  Isabella  had  gpne  up  Prince  Regent's  i^et,  as 
Mount  Sherrar,  followed  by  the  Wi)liam  Lee,  whicb  was  tl 
that  we  had  seen,  and  was  now  in  sjght;  while  we  intended 
on  board  of  her  a  part  of  our  crew/    He  had  made  a  bold 
'  to  cross  Prince  Regent's  inlet  to  Leopold's  islands,  in  hopes 
ing  8om6  traces  of  us  rather  than  ourselves;  but  had  been  si 
about  two-thirds  of  the  way,  by  a  field  of  ice.    He  had  ru 
the  edge  of  this  on  the  day  before  we  crossed;  and  it  ws(s  in  1 
ner  that  we  had  missed  him;  while  it  wds  (m  his  returik  that 
after  he  had  examined  the  eastern  shore  for  us  in  vain.    Tha.  ^^  „«« 
not  noticed  our  boats,  though  he  had  seen  them,  arose  from/his  hav- 
ing  nnistaken  them  for  those  of  the  WilHam  Lee.  f 

Being  desirous  to  leave,  at  Possession  bay,  a  notice  to  aby  vessel 
which  might  land  there  jn^arch  of  us,  as  ahM>  to  verify  my  chrono- 
meter, I  was  landed  for^se  purposes;  and,  after  buryii^  a  bottle, 
with  a  state  of  the  facts,  at  the  same  cairn  which  we  had  built  in 
1818,  we  returned  on  board  and  bore  up.  Before  noon,  keeping  on 
the  outside  of  the  land  ice,  we  had  rounded  C^pe  Graham  Moore; 
and,  after  some  considerable  difficulties  among  the.  floating  pieces 
and  the  icebergs,  attained  a  place  of  safety,  though  continuing  beset. 
On  Sunday,  divine  service  was  performed;  giving  us  a  now  public 
opportunity  of  oflfecing  our  thanksgivings  for  ouf  almost  miraculous 
deliverance. 

The  William  Lee  and  some  other  Vessels  w6re  now  seen  at  ihd 
outward  edge  of  the  ice;  but  we  did  not  oiirselyes  get  clear  till  the 
thirteenth,  when,  with  the  aid  of  the  sails,  iid  warped  out,  and 
standing  to  the  southward,  fell  iii  with  the  fle^t  o^  whalers  on  the 
fishing  ground.  From  each  vessel  the  master  came  on  board  to  wel- 
come us;  and  those  from  Hull  and  Newcastle  in  particular,  brought 


fiqd- 

along 

man- 

^emet, 

he  had 


i„___._„... 


b,jf»rf.>'C»;irSsrj 


'  "~~»">«miiiM,)<piii||iii_  i 


■  '      •  :   ■  ♦;       '     -^?- 

to  THE  ARCTlc"aBGIO»S.  ^b 

f aKltyrS'^ve^^  '"^'' ^^'^'^  --  very  acceptable, and  L 

l|anY:Shrdt^erurirf±bT.^  -^  A'^-''- 

^J  voyage  in  1818.    Iv  thrSf  ffl^^T W^**  'i?'"  *he  charts  of 
'>bserved  difference  of  bng'Se  i^^^^^^^  ^P^  ^r  ";«"«*'  ^J  «" 
observations.    These  coincUd  wiTh  tKe  L^^^^^  -"^  ^rmer 

►hreys;  and  under  the  facilS  VS  K^^^*5.^^^^ 
^eyed  the  coast,  with  Several  o?tS^K    ^  ^^^'^^^  "«•  '  ''es'T- 
tention  of  pubfching  a^LuSX^'  ^"V^  «nletsr  with  the  in-  \ 
H>rtant  bv  its  abunLnt  Knr.  T'  °^  "  '''^'^"  '«H"«d  «  in,- 

longer  in  those  seas.  The  Se^Soi  ThT'^  "°>  ^"'"^•"  «»«=»» 
parted  without  taking  th*.  iSi!  l-^^^r^  ^^^  '"  company,  de- 
fy her;  though/had^l  Lt  £„^^^^^^^^^  inteEde/to^^end 
Orkney,  we  s&jild  havTbeen  arhom^**  *"  ?«°^  "^-"^  men  in 
It  was  on  the  thirtSh  «r  c  *  T  ^^  «*°°  ^s  thkt  vessel.  • 
.traits;  anS  oi  the  tSh^lf^^^^                 we  quited  Cfav 

passage,  we  landed  amromnL    We  J^^^^  ^'r  "^  ^^^'^ 

next  at  the  Lone  Hmp-  fi!«»  i.-  u  ^®^®  detaiped  bn  the  two 
reached  the  KbSl'  tfehS^r'''?  ^IJJ^  4««°th,  w^ 
the  Rotterdam  steam.bMt      ^'S'****"*'^' ""d  P'-o<^eededIto  Hull  in  , 

diffi2Sty';r«aXd"r'in'n'^^^^^^^^^  \'  --Ml^  -o-e 

of  welcrfme  from  the  SlvT'^Jr^  we  shortly  xejeived  visit. 
Trinity-house,  L  tL  pK?L„k.  SPS^'i^t'O"'  *he  oflicers  of  the 


11 


% 


-7- 


i(%w.  t"" 


a-i.-'^'s 


V 


*^ 


i'-iTi. 


*'••'<  i*-** 


.V       /      - 


■!  -i 


ADDENDA. 


Vy.  *ng  MBflmeuc  role.   I  had  the  hoiHittr  o7h«in<;  ""«/""cn  naa^een  houted 
Hw  Majerty,  ^ho  had  ed^atSSal^ISS^^^  received^ 

?5Sediafel7  granted  me^^mS  to  SffiKiffn^J; 
of  Her  Majesty  the  QueenTon  mV  iSiartn  tTiSPiw    "luBtrioas  name,  and  that 
ed  me  to  place  around  AeiS^Srf  th«B«^M'*'''P'''«5 f™* ^mtna^: 
crowned  foada  of  Europe.    offi"i5Svl2tZ?£«*^         *•»«  reigning 
4±-H*^'k""*  "iS»««'n»^«0«blShed  b?ote^^  'fS^A  the 


with  whom  I  had  an 


MdviflenhiitlhadredeiTOdSyDSKtfnn'SM''''"**'  »«*  '^w  ««»  byWd 
l-S-f.  and  that  I -^K^^ttoS!l?Sr«t^^^^^^ 

3'0K^5&^tfth^^^ 

.   '  Vl*>*v<r-Yes.   Ihava  n  lS»««rS?l'^l*il"?*°.'"t'>yonrcotoduct? 

Which  I^reiS  *  *  '*"•"  "^""  ^fd  MelviUe  in  p^oof cfiSwt  fact. 


^ 


a:- 


*•.:- 


»    -•»• 


.  M.  ,««■-  1-^  ■'■,-'.,.  ,- 


<"*<«■«    >»*»pi4eiiW»- "<i»' 


446 


<■■. 


I 


il'your  eobduct  as  commander  of  the  Isabella  had  been  diaaoDroved  at  »i  ih. 

The  Committee  having  unanimolislyexprcMed  their  satisfkction  nropAodMl 

"Sfi?'**,'?^'''""  extracted  from  the  parliamentary  DaoerK  «o"owmg 

The  Select  Committee  codsiated  oP-  """r*"'  P*P«'"? 


Mr.  Gqtlar  Fergunon 
Sir  Robert  Peel 
Sir  Robert  Inelia 
Sir  Jamea  Graham 
Mr.  Hutt 
Mr.  Aslionby 
Mr.  Chapman 
Sir  Henry  Hardinge 
Sir  Edward  Codrington 


Mr*  William  Gladatone 
Mr.  E#art 
Mr.  Bannerman 
Sir  Andrew  Aniew 
Mr.  Edward  Stewart 
Mr.  Oedree  Robinson 
Mr.  Wa^tairton 
Lord  Du^y  Stuart 
Mr.  Stuart  Mackenzie 


Mr.  Fox  Talbot 
Mr.Brotherton 
Mr.  Emeraon  Tennent 
Mr.  G.  F.  Younff 
Mr.  Hughea  Hufhea 
Lord  Viaconnt  Bandi 


Mr.  Labouehere 
Mr.  O'Coimell 


randon 


aJfer^Saisssttsir^ 


/ .- 


N 


•f 


ol 
ol 
R 
fo 
au 
ar 
ia 

at! 
loi 

Ml 

ou( 

am 

"hi 

cou 

met 

ion 

eze 

Bo« 

twe 

by] 

ceiv 

fron 

cred 

final 

diati 

ezpc 

aan 

'aaat 

1829: 

g»gt 

ance 

Beac 

riee, 

folloi 


"Sir, 

tereat 
provei 
Lords 
<(oeati< 
ticulai 
1829.  n 
■tanee 
which 
Wei 
the  wr 
I4lh, a 


'      "i^ys^wj"-"* ' 


.j(ttx: 


|j»..  ,».»*,  ■iv^< 


'^^ 


-  n?i' 


ADMBNDA. 


447 


REP 


ORT. 


fore  confined  tbemBe^^i^S^ltj^t  '^i?*  °f  ^««'5  they  Iwvet  heV^ 

f««picion  of  intereated  i^^  aMa^^&f^  n^been  repealed,  and  that  no 

/ue  made  k^own:  that  accordinclr  with  f  ha 


"^loai  in  spue  of  the  mutiny  of  tKrcrew  nf  «  ;S;i  ° 'TO^'V"»««»  in  May 
«"<red to aeeonopany  them  with  nP«v{-{«I^?r?*^?V'^«'''rhich  had  beenen- 

riM,  for  a  sammary  of  which  voiH.rwL;.*  *""*".'X <^">«e"  anA  discovfr. 

Sir,  ■        "'""^""slSaffi"'''^'"*'^- 

««« ATWS&»K;L<i^5a'"/'''«.*''"^''''3'  are  fa- 


f^e  wreck.    After  completiT  in  fud'aSd  nfhl™^  •*"*  "o  ^w%e  of 

14.h,  and  on  the  fonowig,  mo^/yoad^^fe^aTwhr^^^^^^ 


w 


i- 


-=-,■■     -t 


448 


APDBNDA. 


r 


%:■: 


:s^. 


I- 


r 


coveriM  commeneed,  and  keepini^  t^e  western  ihore  cloafe  on  board,  ran  4pwn 
the  coart  in  a  S.  W.  by  W.  course,  in  from  ten  to  twenty  rathoms,  untfl  we 
had  paaied  the  latitude  of  72«  north,  in  ioniritude  9*"  west;  here  we  found  a 
considerable  inlet  leadine  to  the  westward,  the  ezaminatioh  of  which  occupied 
two  days;  at  this  place  we  were  first  seriously  obstructed  by  ice,  which  was 
now  sure  to  extend,  from  the  South  Cape  of  the  inlet,  in  a  solid  mass,  round 
by  south  and  east  to  E.  N.  E.  Owing  to  this  circumstance,  ihfi  shallowness 
of  the  water,  the  rapidity  of  the  tides,  the  tempestuous  weather,  the  irregu- 
larity d(  the  coast,  and  the  numerous  inlets  and  rocks,  for  which  it  is  remark- 
able, our  progress  was  no  I6ss  dangerous  than  tedious,  yet  we  succeeded  in 
Knetrattng  below  the  latitude  of  70»  north  in  longitude  9ff  west,  where,  the 
id,  afterhaving  carried  us  as  fiir  east  as  90«»,  took  a  decided  westerly  d»ec- 
tion,  whUe  land  at  the  distance  of  for^  miles  to  southward,  was  smn  trending 
east  and  west.  At  this  extreme  pomt  our  progress  was  arrested  on  1st  Oc- 
tober by  an  impenetrable  bttrier  of  ice.  We,  however,  found  an  excellent 
wintering  port  which  we  ftaihed  Felix  harbour.  .,..-.«., 

Barlym  January  1830,  we  had  the  good  fortune  to  establish  a  fiiendhr  inUir- 
eoarse  with  a  most  interesting  association  of  natives,  whom  beiM  msulated  by 
nature,  had  never  before  communicated  with  strangers;  from  them  we  gradu- 
ally obtained  the  ittapourtant  information  that  we  had  already  seen  the  Conti- 
toent'of  America,  that,  about  forty  miles  to  the  south-west  there  were  two 
great  seas,  one  to  the  west,  which  was  divided  from  that  to  the  east  by  a  nar- 
row strait  or  neck  of  land.  The  verification  of  this  intelligence  either  way,  on 
which  our  future  operations.so  materially  depended,  devolved  onCommuider 
Ross,  who  volunteered  this  servfee  early  in  April,  accompanied  by  me  o!  Uie 
mates,  «nd  guided  by  two  of  the  native8,>rpceedea  w  the  spot,  andfiiund  that 
the  north  land  was  connected  to  the  south,  by  two  ridges  of  high  land,  16  nules 
in  breadth:  but  taking  into  account  a  diain  of  fresh  water  lakes,  whieb  occu- 
pied^ the  Alleys  between,  the  dry  land,  which  actually  sorauratef  the  two 
oceans,  is  only  five  mUes.  This  extraordinary  isthmus  was  subso«iently  visit- 
ed by  myself,  when  Commander  Rqifa  proceeded  minutely  to  suryav  flie  sea 
coast  to  the  southward  of  the  isthmus  leading  to  the  westward,  wbirt  he  suc- 
ceeded to  tracing  to  the  99th  degree,  or  to  Z»  miles  of  Cape  T«iimgain,  of 
Franklin,  to  which  point  the  land,  after  leading  him  into  the  7«th  degree  of 
north  latitude,  trended  direeUy;  during  the  same  ipurney  he  also  surveyed  30 
miles  of  the  adjacent  coast,  $r  that  to  tfee  north  of  the  isthmus  which,  by  also 
taking;a  westerly  direction,  formed  the  terminaUon  of  the  western  sen  uto  a 
gulf.  The  rest  of  this  season  was  employed  m  tracing  the  sea  cmst  south  of 
tiSFisthmus,  leading  to  the  eastward,  which  was  doms  so  as  to  j««[«  n®  ™«« 
that  it  jomed,  as  the  natives  had  previously  informed  us,  to  AdraUee,  and  the 
land  forming  Repulse  Bay.  It  was  also  determmedthat  there  was  no  passage 
to  the  westward  for  30  miles  to  Uienrirthwwd  of  our  posiuon.  -«».,«. 

This  summer,  like  that  of  1818,  was  beautifVilly  fine,  but  extremdy  unftyoura- 
blefor  n«vigatH>n,andourtSB|ect  being  now  to  try  a  more  UOTthern  latitude, 
we  waited  with  anxiety  for  the  disrupSon  of  the  ice,  but  m  vnin,  and  our  ut- 
most endeavours  did  not  succeed  in  retracing  our  steps  more  than  four  mUes, 
and  it  was  not  untO  the  middle  of  November,  that  we  succeededin  eutting  the 
vessel  mto  a  place  of  security,  which  we  immed  "Sherlfl's  Harbour.''  rmay 
here  mention  that  we  named  the  newly  discovered  continent,  to  the  southward. 
"Boothia,"  as  also  the  isthmus,  the  peninsula  to  thcr  north,  and  the  eastern  sea, 
after  my  worthy  friend,  Felix  Booth,  Esq.,  the  truly  patriotic  citizen  of  London, 
who,  in  the  most  disinterested  manner  enabled  me  to  equip4his  expedition  in  a 

*"ffiie*la8t^»rinter  was  in  tediprature  neafly  Mual  to  the  meant  of  what  had 
been  experienced  on  the  fourproceeding  voyMft,  but  th«J™*f  ■"  ;I.«^!SJ 
I831'8et  m  with  a^dc^ee  of  violence  hitherto  beyond  Irerord,  th^  therroomeipr 
sank  to  92»  below  the  freezing  point,  and  tffBaverage  ol  the  year  was  lO^bo  ow 
the  precedmgt  but  notwithstondingthe  seier  ty^  the  summer,  we  traveUed 
aeroM  the  country  to  the  West  Sea;  by  a  chain  of  lakes.  30  mi  es  north  of  the 
isMimuB,  when  Commander  Ross  succeeded  m  "orveying  60  wiIm  more  of  the 
coast  leading  to  the  N.  W.  and  by  tracing  the  shore  to  tni™'*"" S;Pi  i*"J 
.position,  it  vms  also  fully  proved  that  thert  could  be  no  pastege  belowUe  risl 

"fliis'autumn  we  succeeded  in  getting  the  vessel  only  14  mile?  to  the  north- 


ADDENDA. 


449 


ward,  anda»^ehadnotdoubled»he  Eastern  Cftne  nil  h«~.     r    '•     .■.     .. 

way  at  an  end.  and  put  quite  b^ond  SbiHtv  hv  «n„  hf  **■  "^ »av"«  the  ship 

and  bavins  only  provisiSne  to  laTue'^o  J nn«  ^  .L",""^*^!!:.^^':^  "^"«  ^■"ter. 

were  accord- 
;)  was  named 

«avingouriiveVOwin^ro^he",;ery%'ug^^^ 

to  iteep  either  upon  or  close  Jo  theini  maldnff  [he  rirrn  ?®r ''^  "'"T  "'*''?'='* 
increasiner  niir  itiatanm  nr  onn  i;.:i„  ""•."-_  T«  ""«  circuit  of  every  bay,  thus 


July  1  that  we  reached  the  beach  comDfrtpIv  pKf^.^ik' \"*'''^"''  ?"*  ""«'' 

A  hut  was  speedily  consiSd  and  Z  h„«.^   h^'^'^^'T^I"^^ 
gashed  off  the  fcach/but  prSemial  v  drive^on  ^hL'^^  °'-  "'**'''''  '"»*'  ^c^" 
dunnsthi,  month:  but  thJ'unnLtrifJi^^ilC^^^^^^^^^^ 

tiree  boats  we  reached  the  ill-fated 


&??r^s^„!s5'A^j^rirwS-r=;^«f^ 


Dense,  wmcii  may  be  easier  imagined  than  Apanrih^A  ah  "•'*•«=  v  «na  sus- 
throuffh  were  vain:  atleM^  lSin»  fi!^J  k "'  .  /"  °»T  attenjpts  to  push 
proacK  of  a  moat  s'eSrlSr  C^retarn  to''^r„"T^^^  Provisions  and  the  ap- 
remained  wherewiK  rost^n  lifp'  f  hp?«^o  "'^^  '^^^'^  «*'one  ">ere 

,  "o«fatiguinS'aSlab?rlous^Shiv^^^^  V"«r  a 

Batty  Bay.  Our  habitation  w«ch  MnriBtSrifn  2  ?.i'^®"  /°  leave  our  boats  at 
covered  with  canvM  was  JuS  thS,  S^^^k"  ?*  "P^^i  **  feet  by  16, 

roof  covered  ^tr^orfromf^r  tise^e?  feet  fc^^^ 
with  water  when  the  tempera  tore  w^lS^^Siztrk^t^'J^uPfi  «f*"t^tfd 
consistency  of  ice,  and  thus  we  actnallvX.pn!nT;Ki  5^  t '?"■"**''**#  took  the 
.  during  oneofthe^ostsSvwe  winters &mS^^^^^  «"  ''•*»>erff 

J»te;C''2,yant  of  bedding,  clothing,  andSifoSdtLp^»!SK*'y*^L^^S'*- 

n »ra, journe,. of raiy-two mile, ea?h M ffi Sly!  wl WlpSJ'KT;' 

tl  le  ability  of  my  pen,  but  they  will  be  duly  appreciated  by  their  LSrdftips  JaS 

57  .       '  .  -     ■  -   ' , 


^ 


/ 


f'lJiWMwKiy^t^/vrtJr' 


h' 


''m-:: 


the  learned  bodies  of  <vhich  t>e  >•  ft 
pd  with  Ms  acquirements. 

My  %teady  and  faithfiji  Triendl 
uras  formerly  with  me  io  the  Ir 


mbmnmb 


lember,  and  who  are  already  well  aequainUi' 


r.  William  Tfiom,  of  the  Roval  Navy,  who 

,  „    ^eUa,  besides  his  duty  m  third  in  command, 

charceof the  MeteoroIogicalJauini6l;  thedistribotion  and  economy  of  provi* 
l^d  to  his  judicious  plana  ana  wtlMiestions  must  be  attributed  the  uncom- 
rMtr^  of  health  whichoor'crew  Mjoyed;  an(l,as  two  Out  df  the  three  who 
,    ^'tm  four  and  a  half  years,  were  cut  on  earlv  in  the  Toyiaf  eby  diseases  not 
peculiar  to  the  climate,  only  pne  man  can  be  said  to  have  perished. 

Mr.  M'Diarmid  the  surgeon,  who  had  been  seveuil  voyw es  to  these  regions, 
did  justice  to  ths  high  recommendation  I  rer«ived  of  him:  ne  Waa  successful  in 
every  amputation  and  operation  which  l^e  performed,  and  wonderibUy  so  in  his 
treatment  of  the  sick;  and  I  have  no  hesitation  in  adding,  that  he  would  be  «m 
ornament  to  His  Majesty's  serviced. 

Commander  Ross,  Mr.  Thorn,  and  myself,  have,  indeed,  been  serving  with- 
out pav,  but  in  common  wi^  the  crew,  hai^e  lost  our  all:  which  I  regret  the 
-  _^.._- ...     ..  ...  ._.-ii    ^.-x   j.jjjy  power  adeauatejv  to  remunerate  my 

'  but  recommend  for  their  Lurdsh^s'  con- 


more,  oecAuse  it  puts  it  totally  out 
fellow-sufferers,  whose  case  I  oanni 
sideration. 

We  have,  however,  the  eonsoMic 

,  been  conclusive,  and  to  science  higl 

hended  in  the  followinrwords:  The 


,  that  the  results  of  this  expedition  have« 
\y  important:  and  may  be^  briefly  compre- 


«.: 


iscoveryoftheGulfofBoothiaitlieCow. 

tinent  and  Isthmus  of  Boothia  Felizjand  avast  number  of  islands,  nvers,  a^a 
lakes;  the  undeniable  establishmptiuthat  the  N.  E.  point  of  Ameriiea  extends 
to  the  74th  degree  of  .north  kititode.  Valuable  observations  of  every  kind, 
but  particularly  on  the  i^agaet',  apd'to  crown  all,  we  have  ha4  the  honour  of 
piftcmg  the  illustrious  name  of  our  most  gracious  Sovereign,  William  the 
Fourth,  onthe  true  position  of  the  Magnetic  Pole.  \ 

I  cannot  conclude  this  letter.  Sir,  withopt  acknowledging  the  important  ad- 
vantages we  obtained,  fr6m.thp  valuable  ptiblications  oi^ir  Edward  Parry  and 
Sir  John  Franklinj,and  the  communication  kindly  made  to  us  by  thrae  distiih 
ifuisbed  officers  before  our'^eparturefnogoEngland. 

Btit  the  glory  of  this  enterprise  is  ewn|f'due  'to  Him  whose  divinefo 
hten  most  especially  manifested  tQwajBI  us,  who  guided  and  directed 
steps,  who  mereifuOy  provided  effectual  means  for  our  preservation. 


even  after  the  devices  and  inventions 
homUe  endeavours  with  complete  so 


irhaa 
lUour 

_        - -- ^ who, 

I  itmn  had  utterly  foiled,  crowned  our 


\ 


Ilhave  the  honour  to  be,  £e. 

JOHN  ROSS.  Capt  R.  N. 


'  IToafi  Committee  have  fotind  the  stateibaents  contained  in  the  above  letter  eon- 
firmaii'iKl  for  as  they  have  been  examined,  by  the  evidence  which  has  appeared 
befora  themj  and,  supported  bv  the  opimons  of  Captain  Beaufort,  hydrographer 
to  the  Admiralty,  of  Mr.  Children,  one  of  the  secr^aries  of  the  Ro;ral  Society, 
md  of  Professor  Barlow,  who  bias  made  the  magnetic  variations  his  particular 
[fetudy.  they  see  no  retkson  to  doqbt  that  Captain  Ross  nearly  approaished,  and 
that  Qommahder  Rowactually  t'eacned,  the  Magnetic  Pole. 

The  importance  esMciaily  to  limaritime  nation,  ofthi8difKM>veir,ai)d  of  the 
observations  connected  i^th  magnetic  s^fiencc.  arising  thereontJJIbiMidiiiilil/ 
estimated  by  the  scientific  Witnesses  whoMvelteen  examined,  nr^^^ 
tested  by  the  xeal  with  which  this  branHnscienee  has  been  oC*' 
eminent  inen  in  every  {rauntr^r,  and  .bvjtnblexpense  which  8e| 
vernments  have  of  late  yeara  incurred  for  the  same  object.  1  .„_...^ 
Under  tl^^ese  circumstances  your  Committee  can  have  noliesitatiotiin  repor  t- 
V'that  a  great  publicservieenasbeen  performed.  -  Inde]jlendentl7  of  the  demon- 
\t|on-tImtone  pnnafre,  which  had  Jieen  opnsidered  by  precedmg  navigators 
"ne  of  the  most  likely  to  lead  froto  the  Atlantic  to  the  Pacific  OceanTHoes 
'  thus  narrowing  the  fieldforfutorewxpeditibns,  if  anch  should  ever  be 
.-.  i-j — indcinUyof  thA  addition  ofbetween  six  and  sfeven  htftidred 
-  |geogrQphicalknowledM,andof  the-ValoaUe  additions  to 
Aeteonplofry, which thiMexpeditionwiUsnpply,jroar Com-  ' 
jk  the  imbue  service  whim  is  rendered  to  a  maritime  coun- 
te  of  MttM,  by  deeds  of  wring  enteirtwise  and  Mtient  en- 
ip,  wl»M|Rile  the  pohlic  ^patby,  lilid  en^  thftgeneral 


Y 


,^' 


I* 


\ ' 


-•me     Tt.. 


><«'»•  .*•<"•  -4.',,   ,  f 


''^B-''' 


^\. 


•- 

>. 

■■..'V 

'^ 

/  #81 

Sf  Captain  Back,  peS TcaptetteSS^*^^^^^^^^^ 

tile  Government  also  contributed  2000/  gallant  party,  to  which 

lothei"^" — * i>.L^ 

to  report 

.  Bp V¥dmir^-ty';S;.rd"not^U"^^^^^^  °"  .private  -ri.k7'^drt!iB 

*^^rred.,ot  be  callid-upon  inatrSw  to  not?r«  in  ^^°"'*'*..'^'  ''"y  liabiiiliei 

iWualafenga^ed  in  i^yet.  S^M^e  Swe"  of^Mfc'T.'*^*"  "^  »''« 

|«r  eh^se  services  has  gone  unnoticS  or  unrew«  Ji5  Admiralty  extends, 

■S.^-'iim  delivered  iit  to  your  cSitlLTtM^i'  '{^PPea"  'rom  a 

?ceived  doublelull  MvUftilth^»fi.foi^ik  ^.^"^'^^Yf  that  "all  the 

iituntiUheirarnv'S?^rEnffi  SS 
W^ve  besi^s  been  eSSS'lHSle  f^^^^^^^^ 
iced  in  otherrfhat  will  IeaS%  promXn"'  that  M'   *kL     ^ 
"has  been  promoted,  and  aDooint*!^  «»  «k.  a-  **'•  Abernethy, 


— .^lave 
pay  after 
4580/.;  tha 
yards,  or 
thegunne 
Mr.Thoi 


,^' 


that  Co.. 
tific  re^ii 
pointed 
length 
special  „ 
and  that 
Onanitv'i 
owe  th( 
them  h. 
I  tniraltyi 
tion.   C 
anxious 


nnnhfi^  to  paM  his  exaiQiiwtlon  will  C?  ™«m«.fS^I'  "fi!P*'*^^„«W*,  when 

above  fbtor  years, 
and  who  had  then 

dE,ji%"wtgriS»*i::^TS^ 

Admiraltfin  the  wa/ of  SomoUon  *  Ha^Klf,^^^*  ""^  "''"f'  f"™  "w 
the  amtwnt  6t  nearly  three  SiS^^^l^"!'^***  **'*/'■«"  and  bsses  to 
half-pay^hich  had  a^Sat^  BgZ  eiSi'i^S^'hS^  "^  ""^  »*?"»  ^^e 
■ame  rank  with  which  he  wentoat:  ifnde?  thp«  iV?"'  •**»  'enna""  with,  the 
to  the  advahtases  to  sSenrn  anH  ♦!.- k«  "^  these  circumstances,  and  looking 
•ufted  froTt^llten  unSh^comS^^  wl^icHre  r^ 

the  country  has  bew  wimngTbcur  Srmer^S  JP«  «l*?nse  which 
tions,  and  to  the  rewards  i^ich  U  hL  vn?i?lii°^'?°*  C^f  «milar  expadi- 
Dourable objects. yowCommfttee hS^?h!^ t!!°  ^?\  '*"  important  ancfXT 
of  a  due  r^  to'^JSKZmJ.WeSmmMdtei^^^^^  '^"nds 

"t  %"°S  ^^t«d  toTCaSyohn  Rom  *  *^*'  "  "^  °^'^''«  "»«»- 

^  «Mon%t&ylS;  rJi'^&Ttl.^^^^^^^  this 

power  tp  propose  some  fit  token  rSwteffiLl^l™-^»''K^*»'ir*'°»'»^^^^ 

ditTon!  ^&  rolSoffiJKJtKr '  ^  ^^^tence  of  the  expe- 
of  the'Hous5^aSd  yoKoSSffieJU  to  ?eS.J°^^^^  »>J'  a  mem^r 

a-^^o  Hi.  MkjestJ's  Go^errSl'^e*?  rre^s^tSn^^/^rjSrliS 

April,  1834.  LORD  VISCOUNT  SANDON,  Chairman. 

mlZl  teft^''""*"*  *^'  "*»  -bj^riPtion  ha.  ever  been  received  by,  me  for 


t 


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■  *  •■» 


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APPEN^X, 


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APPENDIX,  No.  1.  t 

Copy  «>/«  hater  from. Captain  John  Rosa,  R.  N.,  to  Captain  the  Ban,  George 
EUtot.C.  B.,  dated  October  22,  IS33. 


Q 


'    C;      „^  ,.       „         ...  Portland  Hotel,  Oct.  22, 1833. 

5?^  ;,  Str,— The  expediuop  from  which  I  am  now  returned,  having  been  underta- 
"    •'ken  in  1829,  at  my  own  expense,  I  neceesariJy  came  under  certam  engagemenrs 
#fuh  tl)«crew,  which  according  to  my  expectation  at  the  time,  might  De  likely 
^-to  termnate  in  fideen  months,  and  in  that  case  I  should  have  been  enabled  <to 
rujfil  those  engagements;  but  as  the  absence  of 'the  men  has  been  protracted 
for  four  years  and  a  half,  the  claims  ,\u)on  me  have  greatly  inrreased,  while  by 
the.lossof  my  vessel  the  means  of  discharging  them  has  been  much  dimin- 
ished. ' 

In  venturing  to  request  you  will  submit  my  case  to  the  Lords  Commissioner* 
of  the  Admiralty,  1  feel  assured  that  the  ptiblic  nature  of  the  undertaking,  and 
the  unparalleled  sufferings  which  have  attended  it,  will  bring  their  Lordships 
to  the  consideration  of  the  circumstances  I  have  stated,  with  everv  disposi- 
tion to  afford  me  the  means  of  dischlirgin^dbligations  of  so  sacred  a  character. 
1 1  is  true  that  according  to  law,  thmnen  may  not  bepble  to  compel  tjk:  payment 
of  their  v*ages  after  October^  1831,  when  allhopes  of  saving  the  vessel  led  to 
her  abandonment,  but  a. sense  of  what  is  due  to  my  character  as  an  officer  of 
the  navy,  and  a  feeUng  of  what  is  due  to  thif  men,  whos&conetanry  was  never 
shaken  under  the  roost  appalling  prospects,  and  to  whose  fidelity  and  obe- 
dience I  owe  BO  much,  I  should  be  ashamed  of  inyself  if  I  could  lor  a  moment 
entertanui  thought  of  any  subterfuge,  whereby  I  might  evade  the  payment 
of 'their  well-earned  wages;  I  am  anxious,  however,  with  mv  slender  means, 
to  appeal  to  their  Loildsnips  in  the  first  instance,  in  the  confident  persuasion, 
that  an  undertaking  so  entirely  of  a  naval  nature,  will  receive  their  counte- 
nance and  support,  and  that  under  their  Lordships'  recommendation.  His  Ma- 
jesty's Goyernment  will  be  pleased  to  jponsider  the  voyage  as  so  entirely  direct- 
ed to  public  obje<;ts.  as  fairly  to  claim,  under  tbe  circumstandes  I  have  de- 
aeribed,  that  the  payment  of  the  officers  and  men  should  become  a  public 
charge. 

As  the  men  have  most  of  them  arrived  in  town,  and  wait  the  adjustment  of 
their  claims,  I  need  scarcely  add,  that  it  is  very  desirable  that  I  should,  with 
ashttle  delay  as  possible,  receive  an  intimation  of  their  Lordships'  decision 
upon  this  applieatioo. 

.  .  I  have  the  honour  to  be.  Sir, 

Your  obedient  Servant, 
^Signed)        JOHN  ROSS,  Capt  R.  N. 

.  ,    •  .  • 


APPENDIX,  No.  2. 

Copyqf  a  Letter  from  Mr.  Barrow  to  Captain  John  Rot;  R.  ff.,  dated  Ad- 
'  miraUy,  Oct.  25, 1833: 

o-      IV  ■    J     ^,   ....  ,  .     ^    Admiraltv, Oct 2»,  1838. 

Sir,— I  have  received  and  laid  before  my  Lords  Commissioners  of  the  Ad- 


'\ 

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Ihi 

ers 

the 

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disc 

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jept 

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offic 

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Copi 


Sir 
miral 
men< 

Lorde 

HisM 

theB( 

the  be 

•ituati 

tmifori 

■eame 

fiedof 

thedei 

native 

fueling 

themii 

b!ed,t( 

.directe 

WtiLl 

aoenff 


-•oi 


..,•/,:-. 


_/ 


ation.  unequalled  K|7^'^,S/o7"«'M^ 

your  flAfe  return.  recora"  oi  navigation,  and  their  congratulatioM 

I  am,  &c. 

(Stffncd)  J.BARROW, 


,>,    5, 


453 


situ- 
at 


irge 


n. 

srta- 

I 

enfB 

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keljr 

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dio 

cted 

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1 

min- 

oer* 

and 

hipB 

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ster. 
nent 
d  to 
irof 
ever 
obe- 
lent 
nent 
ana, 
lion, 
nte- 
Ma- 
ect- 
de- 
iblie 

It  of 
irith 
Bion 


Ad- 


i. 

Ad- 


APPENDIX,  No.  3.  -^ 

e<^  ^a  l^er-fron.  Ca,tgnJ^nM^,E.  N., to  Mr. Barrp.,^ 

I  nave  tn 

ersofth 

the  late  JJi|«lition'to "thl" Arr"fTp  i«»oo''  "if  "'^  """cers  and  men  empWed  on 

priiMiplafhaYlKid  ha^e  feU  ^^  *''«  pay  due  to  each  on  the 

fc«e3oTiL^^^^^^^^^ 

for^v'^rl.'p^^^^^^^  for  mvself  and 

tection  socheerfull^r  extended  to  usfeXirLordshfpr  ^''^  °^  ^''^^  P'**" 

■     ii&T^  .--'.  lam,  &c. 

JOHN  ROSS,  Capt.  R.  N. 


APPENDIX,  No.  4. 


'"'V 


^'''"^"■^^^•'"K-'&'iff"  •"*■«-.  *JV.,*-«iO»- 


\ 


/ 


^..?iVy5^Ie^^Wtre'i'^^  llf/r."/  ^"''?  c'oSg;.e??orVid. 

?te*'"5  .**'  «*«*'  according  Ke  ^le  bv  wWoh  ?«^'  «'>?*"'(?  «he  amount 
■err  bound  to  remunerate  them  for  tb^^rJi^^^U?^  ^""^  H^«  ^e'^  yo«r- 
LordshipB  to  acqdfaint  you  in  p^nlv  ?hlf  fuk  ^^L**??  "  *™  commahded  by  their 
Si"^"4"»y;|o^™»en  riZL?h  a^^  »«°  have  no  cllim  on 

the  Board  of  Admiralty,  yet,  in  cSeration  Jf^^h?^'""  J'**  ""t.^nt  out  by  , 
the  benefit  of  acience.  6f  the  sKKKm-n  hi'"/''^'*®"  undertaken  for 
■ituation  in  which  they  were  nlS^nr  iS?f„?®°  ^'^/^  undergone,  the  perilouB 
miformgoodconduc?uXr  cireumJSn^Bt^JKSi!:'^^        P«"od.a£d  their 
■eamenwere  perhapa  ever  MMse^lffiSir  r^i"  k-  ^T*^  *"  '''»«'»  British 

we  deatrfute  state  in  which"  theBAn»«„^f¥f  "'*'"■  entered  into  by  you,  and  of 
native  country,  haveEinducId  ffil  «,7*  P">^'dentially  arri/ed  I'n  their 
ftehngof  humknityrimKteI?trreK''l!fr""'*'  circumstancea  from  a 
themTrompreBBingneSty  rather  thnnt^^  f^^"^'  engagement,  and 

W.ed,  to  whrch'it  ialntS  5i  SSbmftteJS^.Shi-^r'''!S,"^^^^  ^^  »»e  aaaem- 
'  feS?*??  *he  Accountanl^eSl  "f  the  ^v'  £"'A«"'«Wp«  have  therefore 
«8(M.  12*.  3d.,  aa  the  amouSt^wWch  hv  Soni?L^.»^J*^  the  aum  of 

anengagementtopa^t.  »«'•  P^-"^'C;S^Sl fi^lif^^^^^^^^ 


?"\! 


li 


l\ 


^'~ik 


h     *= 


;5 


ADVENDA. 


mafins  themyaymentB,  you  will  take  a  atamped  receipt  aa  i^  voucher  in  full  of 
all doniandB  they  may  rcBpectively  have uponyou.  ^  "uenecmiuuoi 

*    /  I  am,  &c. 

(Signed)  .  J.  BORROW. 


I: 


/ 


■'  '^PPENDIX,  No.5.  j^'--..       ,        ./ 

^  «l.^if  vt^°^  amtSunu  qf  Money  paid  to  thb  Crew  of  the  Diecooerii 


28,  .1833. 


MAlfBa. 


Ototse  iroiarmld  ■ 
WUUainLl^t 
Thomas  Blahkey  - 
RlehanlWall.      . 
Anthony  Buck 
Allan  HlnnM 
Jeunes  Manlin 
John  Park       ..    ■ 
Joseph  Curtla .      . 
John  Wood 
Robert  Bhreeve     ■ 
Henry  Ayre    • 
ThomaaAUtaiethle 
ChUQham  lltomBa 
George  Taylor 
Alexander  Branton 
Barney  Lachey     . 
David  Wood   - 
James  Dlxoa  • 
Oeorge  Baxter 


avAums. 


Surgeon   - 

steward   • 

Mate 

Seaman    - 

Ditto 

Second -Engineer 

Armourer 

^aman    • 

Ditto 

Ditto        ■    , 

Carpenter's  Hate 

Cook 

Hate 

Carpenter 

Hate    ■    • 

First  Engineer 

fiawdman 

Seaman   - 

Ditto 


■Oils. 


t  ..*•  ■ — 

818  18  9  Promoted  to  Surgeon  R.N. 
172  14  ^f  Not  recommended. 
345  9  4  An  appointment  in  the  merchant  senrlee. 
m  16  0  Ditto  in  the  Dock  Yard.^^^^^'  ^^^ 
IV  9  0 Lost hU eyesight. 
m  18  8  Returned  to  hU  Meads, 
as  18  8  Died  on  the  voyage. 
138  ir  0  Hade  Gunner  R.  S. 
ISS  17  0  Ditto.  ( 

\^  '0  Returned  to  his  friends. 
166   9  4  Ditto. 

«»  3  sued  soon  after  his  return. 
^  in  1  ™»2»ot«<>  to  gunner  of  the  SouthampMi. 
M6  10  «  Died  on  the  voyage.         .  ,  , 

3»  9  4Retumedtohlabmay.    !  -    ' 

617  16  0  Ditto.  ^^        \ 

121  16  0  Coast  Guard  Service. 
121  110  Returned  to  his  friends.       ~~ 
oo  a  "Dledon  the  voyage. 


89    80 


4660  12  3 


121 11  0  Returned  to  hia  friends. 


tw?  rtt?Mf  '^•"  P'^°:?H««^  rewmtB  for  the  payment  of  all  above  Bum>  except 
w^  &.t"J'*'r  L"  *rS**  ^^°^  D™"'  dea^.  whose  waeee  have  been  repaid 
!I^  J  "®  '{apaB  of  the  Treasurer.  The  representatives  of  James  MarsUn  have 
made  a  claim  for  the  arrears  due,  but  it  is  stiU  under  consideration.   ""  ""■ 

{Signed)  J.  T.  BRIGGS: 


Translation  of  the  Esqoimanx  Hymn,  page  K  ^5  ^ 
OP  OUR  KING. 
Tvmo.—NaUunakauioJmnk$ara. 

Makemuijr,  O  Father,  the  days  of  the  king:  make  stead/hst  all  his  doincs. 
eserving  bim  on  hiffh;  hear  our  prayers,  and  be  gracious  to  our  king. 


•   .w  i'^Vi?-!^®'"  ^^^*^  ^'SS'?*"^  °^  *^  anointed,  and  let  him  every  where 
P   show  mildness  as  thou.    Oh!  hear  our  prayers,  and  be  gracious  to  our  king. 


i*  • 


N   • 


I 


V  . 


-^ 


EXPLANATION 

■ .  •         °  -  ■  ' 

.OP 

SEA  i^D  TECHNICAL  TERMS  USED  IN  ICY  SEAS. 


^<^W  an  insulated  mountain  of  ice 

A^^li,tZ7!^'  ''^P'*^-  »'' ««  °«^  «act  other,  but  through  which  the 
to  P^wiS'dWt'offir '  "'^''^  **  *  *«^'^.  -efficient  to  enable  a^ship 
^Sfo^Kofe**'""*" "**"'•  «««*^«"«h«nall  pistes  that  the  ship  cao 

^^ryfce.  that  which  ha,  a  great  depth.  mprop*tion.  and  not  in  a  atate  of 
iceP'ufe'sSe.*  ""'°''  '''«^«>  •«*t''^«n  two  floe,  or  fields,  or  between  the 

4.J«^.a  p^eceof  ice  project^ Va^^^^^^^ 
.oitem'»£'^  fr«"°  »^«  "««» «e  to  the  «,a  ice.  or  aeros.  a  channel  * 

f  «J«^  «?.  ice  formed  after  a  fdl  of  fnow  v 

■carceljr  impedes  the  ship.  '  "^^  ^""^  t*""*** « the  wateif  Which 

4^«Af,  a  bay  in  a  floe  of  ice.  • 

Jb&re.  or  4or.„^.pressing  the  ship  through  small  ice  or  young  ice.  under 

4FS'cowf''*^'^"'^-^»'«»  »»"»•  »ast-head..  to  protect  the  lookout 

**/??Sv'aSLtir''^***"P'^^  inthedirectionofthe 

JMtnk,  tand  Wink,  p««Uiar  »,«,«,  appearance  of  the  sky  ovej/the  distant 


■/ 


/ 


7 


450 


KXPi,AirA7ioir  or  sea  awd  techitioal  terms. 


^.  Wa/er.fty.adark  appeariuice  of  the  dqrindiiatiiiff  Clearwater  in  that  dircc- 

%ttng;  tee,  ice  which  has  been  formed  durine  the  dav  or  m>ht 
^  ice  pieces  of  ice  less  than  floea^f  Sua  shaDesa^^^^ 
^^mmocky  tee.  ice  so  uneven  and  rough  Kbei^^^l  or  nearly  so  on 

^^^e,hrv,ater  tee,  ice  formed  on  a  lalte  or  fresh  water,  and  which  is  transpa- 

^Ffre  Hole,  a  hole  in  the  ice.  kept  open  in  order  to  obtaih  water  to  extinguish 

Spupper,  hQfeathrough  the  side  or  gunwale  to  let  water  out 


'  ./■ 


I-a;- 


r 


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1  ji'ifci''  rn^iiiiii.  II 


-«!" 


inthatdirec- 

58.         ,     ' 

nearly  so  on 
h  is  transpa- 
to  extinguish 

I  lug  sail 


'  ./ 


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